Great video. Very informative. Older guy here and have shot high poundage bows with 30% let off when a lot younger. Guess I didn’t know any better… or maybe I did. More poundage…more speed. Paying price now with rotator cuff surgery twice on both shoulders. Would like to see a video with information from your experience that you don’t have to have a maxed out bow for hunting. You need to be proficient is the key . Practice,practice and practice some more. Later in life you reap those consequences of not being able to pull sufficient weight for fair chase humane harvest by shooting high poundage bows if your not proficient with them. Believe me I know as I no longer have the ability to pull the weight as I thought I needed to shoot a high poundage bow and I practiced a LOT.
I only shoot 60#, when it's cold out and you've been sitting for 3 hours and your super stiff and a monster walks by, you'll be wishing you were at 50#. Love your vids man!
I record my bow and rest specs when it's tuned. If something changes, peak weight in this example, your bow string may have stretched enough to be measurable. Equal twists on both ends will bring it back to your starting length.
I genuinely check the ATA first and twist the bottom of the string first that also stretches 1/8 or a touch more the rotates the cam one direction the then add equal twist into the control cables to get the poundage up 2lbs over peak weight but I think limbs also break in as well .
twisting the cables has pretty much the same impact as "twisting the limb bolts": you change the pre-load on the limbs thus changing the poundage. Conversely twisting the bow string making it longer or shorter will obviously affect the DL as you have now more (or less) length to pull till you hit the stops.
Sorry did I missed something did you mentioned to get back the bow to same poundage by turning a string on both sides or canles including yokes on one side?
Can you elaborate on the effects of cable twisting on letoff and valley? I've changed cables on V3 31 and letoff is now way more than 85%, closer to 90% and the drop into back wall became very uncomfortable. Meanwhile I have only 68.4# with 70# mods maxed out. I don't really care about the poundage so can I increase the letoff back to normal by taking out twists from the cables?
One thing I’ve noticed is it seems like some of the zebra strings are already spun if that makes sense if you put a peep in the gaps are small like it was to tight
I just put ABB strings and cables on my bow and the timing and draw weight were way off. I think they missed some twist when they made them. They had frayed strands right out of the package too. Pretty sure the paper clip caused that. On one of the cables the clip was through the strands. I noticed something was off when I 1st installed them and I had to press the bow more to get the string on after installing cables. I got the timing and cam sync set but my draw length is noticeably shorter hence watching this video. One last thing about the ABB strings, they served the end loops which makes it harder to get on the cam and I can't add twist to them.
I generally measure specs on my Mathews new and I start with my string adding twist on the bottom cam post that further reduces poundage changes the rotation of the cams as well but getting ATA in specs first then add equal twist on the control cables to get poundage about 1.5 pounds above peak that I'm getting with #65 mods and using a scale to get the best feel in the valley and holding weight into letoff using a scale and calculator I'm actually getting 84% letoff on the Vertix but guessing it's different due to having a 28.5 drawlength and it's approximate with 85% letoff mods but I think limbs do break-in because when it was new it was pulling hotter at 68lbs now I'm getting 66.7lbs using strictly factory Zebra Trophy strings and measure everything including checking and making a 1/2' twist correction on the bottom cam timing that tends to open up a little between 50 and 100 shot settling period that locks it down.
The limbs don’t break in, the cables stretch which is what causes the peak weight to drop. I don’t do much other than set it up and shoot it for a couple hundred arrows, then I’ll set the timing, get it back up to peak weight and tune it. At least in my personal set ups.
What about your rest cable/string? Will adding twist to that cable mess with your rest timing? My poundage has dropped about #6, so I was just gonna use the V3X’s SAS system but my string for the rest is tied in and I was worried about throwing everything out of whack.
How you doing I hope all is well hope and you have a great hunting season you and your group. I. I have a question for you I live in New Jersey. I'm looking for PSE drive-in drive NXT and black right is right handed 60 or 70 pounds. Do you have any leftover he left over and was the price. Or do you know where I can get a good deal on 1. Cause I know PSE 2022 bows are coming out
So, i recently bought a v3x 33 with a 75lbs mod, i ran the bow with only 62lbs for a few weeks in prep for LAS Classic, after the event I maxed out the limbs to get 75lbs, but i was getting around 72lbs max. I thought maybe the strings had stretched so i used that as an excuse to get the Gas Ghost Xv, surprisingly, I'm still getting 72lbs, even after the bow guy gave a the cables a few twists. Are you running into similar stories ? - bow guy didn't feel comfortable twisting the cables any more , which i get that. Thanks! - sorryfor the long comment
I’m also running GAS ghost xv strings and with my limb bolts tightened all the way down and I’m only getting a 67lb draw. I want to try putting a few twists to my cables to see if I can get 70lbs. For some reason the guys at my local shop make it sound like if you add twists to your cables you have to do all sorts of tuning. Don’t know how accurate that is.
Same here. New Ghost xv strings installed, can't get past 67lb. Twisted up the string a little bit. Draw weight the same, ata shortened a little, and now I've got peep twist. Going to put everything back the way it was and start over
@@InsideOutPrecision Thanks for the reply it did increase draw weight but it definitely had no valley, I have 2 bows and this is a lower poundage to draw weight was not the problem. I’m puzzled…thanks.
I have a V3X that used to be 70 lbs. When it was at 70 I had perfect paper tears. Now after hundreds of shots and a few months time it's only pulling 67 lbs. I know that I need to twist the cables to get it back to 70. My question is, will I need to paper tune it again after I'm done?
I just purchased Hoyt strings for my Helix Ultra last week and now it maxes out at 64 lbs now. Terrible! I wish I would have known more about string options and their weight variances.
How does this work for a single cam bow? Would I need to twist the cable AND the string? Or twist the cable at the cam then twist each yolk the same at the top by the idler wheel?
The guys at my local archery shop who all seem like they’re either fresh out of college or high school were telling me that if I add twists to my cables to get my bow up to 70lbs then I would have to do all sorts of tuning after. How accurate is that?
I have a 29" phase 4 and the axle to axle is about 29.25"... do I fix that this same way? I ordered a bow press and it arrives tomorrow! Got sick of my local pro shop
Hey my bow is hoyt nitrux it's at 64 pouund it's only 65 pounds bow which string s do I add twists to increase poundage the main string or the bus cable
Shortening the cables or adding twists, reduces your draw length by a small amount. But since they've stretched first, your draw length had gotten a little longer already, so you're just putting it back where it was.
Hi I just change the mods. On a Mathews V3x from # 70 and 27.5 draw length and 63 pound draw weight I replaced them with #65 and 28” draw length but after I replaced the mods the draw weight from 63 pounds went down to 55 pound draw weight I tried to crank it up but the limp is maxed out, I called Mathews costume service and said that the string and cable needs to be twisted so how many turn each the cable and string needs to be twisted? I never thought by changing the mods I would loose 8 pounds of draw weight, is this normal? Thank you
@@vincentdelbono5082 well you lost 5lbs because you went to a lower peak weight mod. If you want it at 65, turn the limb bolts all the way in and then add three twists to each cable
Yeah you'll need to re position your peep. It takes at least 2-3 twists to notice any difference in DL, so if you need to do a half twist in or out to get you peep aligned its no big deal
I was just messaging Brent at A3 about this because it’s the first time I’m replacing a stock set of strings on my Halon 32 6. It’s creeped down to 69# and I started running a heavier DaySix arrow. I’d love to get an 80# bow but can you buy a new bow over treating the kids.. mmm.. so maybe I should get a supporting opinion. Should I.. get the A3 Bloodlines and twist it up to 76#s. I could afford to gain a half inch to my draw which would put me right at 32” and I’m running 75% let off so if that got closer to 80% that wouldn’t be bad either. What are your thoughts?
@@jimmywallhanger8402 I am.. its only i started shooting 600 gr arrows which I really like. I haven't clocked them for speed yet but by my calculation I'm maybe shooting 260 feet per second and I like being in the 300's. Ive got a big back, not Josh Bowmar big, but 80lbs would be nice. I'd like to know more about swapping limbs but my Mathews Dealer is like 4 hours away so unless I'm headed that way..
So I was dead on. Chronod yesterday at 260, 261, 263, 265. I was inching closer to the Chrono which could account for the gradual increase. But I was shocked I thought my arrows were under 630 and they were just above 640 with a 75 gr field tip.. so Im going to look at some 85 gr broadheads and maybe go for those Wake 80# limbs for kicks.
@@InsideOutPrecision ok thank you. I put new strings on and with the new strings the bow is still #5 lower than manufacturer specs. It’s at full draw length 30” and limb bolts tight. Don’t understand it.
So, maybe a dumb question, could you get away with reducing the weight a little by removing twists? Let’s say it’s pulling heavy but you want to keep the limb bolts snugged all the way down.
@@mat_in_texas I would just take a turn or two out of the limb bolts in that case. Taking that many turns out of the cables will take your bows ATA and brace height significantly out of spec
Hey after you did 3 twist on each end you didn't check timing I kno u kno what ur doing im just saying don't u some times have to do 3 twist at one and an maybe 4 or only 2 to make sure timing is correct you see what I'm saying thanks for your time
@@InsideOutPrecision how are the served end loops on Gas strings and clearances within the cam track and the cam post with binding there is some tight tolerances in the machining of the cam .
I always use after market strings. That are pre stretched. My poundage stays pretty good at 62 pounds . 1st thing I do to a bow is put after market strings on. Nice video
and better bearings - if you have a long DL and shoot a high poundage there is a very good chance that your bearings are gone after just 3000 shots....
@@demunbell and the centre serving is so spongy that there is a high risk that the knocking points thread cut in and damage the string....and out of the blue the string will break....
@@InsideOutPrecision Wish I would’ve heard this a year ago before I had a Vapor Trail string put on my bow. I feel like I downgraded from the Zebra. Lots of stretch and the peep won’t stop rotating.
Dude this saved me from so much additional frustration. I could not figure out why I was shooting so low after being DIALED in.. thank you
Great video. Very informative. Older guy here and have shot high poundage bows with 30% let off when a lot younger. Guess I didn’t know any better… or maybe I did. More poundage…more speed. Paying price now with rotator cuff surgery twice on both shoulders. Would like to see a video with information from your experience that you don’t have to have a maxed out bow for hunting. You need to be proficient is the key . Practice,practice and practice some more. Later in life you reap those consequences of not being able to pull sufficient weight for fair chase humane harvest by shooting high poundage bows if your not proficient with them. Believe me I know as I no longer have the ability to pull the weight as I thought I needed to shoot a high poundage bow and I practiced a LOT.
This is amazing information that some of us need to learn and work on our own bows. Thank you
I only shoot 60#, when it's cold out and you've been sitting for 3 hours and your super stiff and a monster walks by, you'll be wishing you were at 50#. Love your vids man!
Totally subjective.
100% subjective.. idc how cold it is I’m pulling max homie. I’m a grown ass man.
Somebody isn’t very strong and butthurt about it lol
@@timparkes4718 been body building all.my life, but when you hit 48 and are only 145#, you'll see
Pull what you can pull. Simple as that, doesn't make you less of a man...
You're very good at UA-cam vids mate, well explained.
I record my bow and rest specs when it's tuned. If something changes, peak weight in this example, your bow string may have stretched enough to be measurable. Equal twists on both ends will bring it back to your starting length.
Noup if you dont twist the main string too, watch the video ;)
I genuinely check the ATA first and twist the bottom of the string first that also stretches 1/8 or a touch more the rotates the cam one direction the then add equal twist into the control cables to get the poundage up 2lbs over peak weight but I think limbs also break in as well .
I'd like to see an in depth video from you about strings and how material and dyes and the process can affect the quality. Great vid bud.
Thanks for the video..like many..I have taken on my own bow work recently.
Good way to increase the weight. On my revolt Xl the time gets advanced if I shorten the cables on both end
Yeah it’s going to rotate the cams slightly, but as long as the ATA and peak weight are set you can still adjust the timing of the cams
Great video! How would I adjust a single cam bow? It has the split yoke(cables) at the top. My bow is around 68 maxed out currently
Keep the videos coming. I really appreciate all the content
Thanks for the addendum on PSE… I was wondering why tuning was showing few results. Thanks!
very informative. how does adding twist on string to shorten draw length affect draw weight after adding twist to cable to get to stock peak weight?
twisting the cables has pretty much the same impact as "twisting the limb bolts": you change the pre-load on the limbs thus changing the poundage. Conversely twisting the bow string making it longer or shorter will obviously affect the DL as you have now more (or less) length to pull till you hit the stops.
Great video. Keep the tunning videos coming. 👍👍
You are a real pro dude
Sorry did I missed something did you mentioned to get back the bow to same poundage by turning a string on both sides or canles including yokes on one side?
Can you elaborate on the effects of cable twisting on letoff and valley? I've changed cables on V3 31 and letoff is now way more than 85%, closer to 90% and the drop into back wall became very uncomfortable. Meanwhile I have only 68.4# with 70# mods maxed out. I don't really care about the poundage so can I increase the letoff back to normal by taking out twists from the cables?
One thing I’ve noticed is it seems like some of the zebra strings are already spun if that makes sense if you put a peep in the gaps are small like it was to tight
I just put ABB strings and cables on my bow and the timing and draw weight were way off. I think they missed some twist when they made them. They had frayed strands right out of the package too. Pretty sure the paper clip caused that. On one of the cables the clip was through the strands. I noticed something was off when I 1st installed them and I had to press the bow more to get the string on after installing cables. I got the timing and cam sync set but my draw length is noticeably shorter hence watching this video. One last thing about the ABB strings, they served the end loops which makes it harder to get on the cam and I can't add twist to them.
The timing and peak weight will never be on right out of the package. You almost always have to add a few twists to get the weight and timing correct.
@@InsideOutPrecision Thank you for the help.
Should you add/remove equal twists to both ends of the string to slightly adjust the DL, or just the bottom string? Thanks!
I generally measure specs on my Mathews new and I start with my string adding twist on the bottom cam post that further reduces poundage changes the rotation of the cams as well but getting ATA in specs first then add equal twist on the control cables to get poundage about 1.5 pounds above peak that I'm getting with #65 mods and using a scale to get the best feel in the valley and holding weight into letoff using a scale and calculator I'm actually getting 84% letoff on the Vertix but guessing it's different due to having a 28.5 drawlength and it's approximate with 85% letoff mods but I think limbs do break-in because when it was new it was pulling hotter at 68lbs now I'm getting 66.7lbs using strictly factory Zebra Trophy strings and measure everything including checking and making a 1/2' twist correction on the bottom cam timing that tends to open up a little between 50 and 100 shot settling period that locks it down.
The limbs don’t break in, the cables stretch which is what causes the peak weight to drop. I don’t do much other than set it up and shoot it for a couple hundred arrows, then I’ll set the timing, get it back up to peak weight and tune it. At least in my personal set ups.
What about your rest cable/string? Will adding twist to that cable mess with your rest timing? My poundage has dropped about #6, so I was just gonna use the V3X’s SAS system but my string for the rest is tied in and I was worried about throwing everything out of whack.
6 twists into my cables and 2 out of string , lengthen my draw 3/16”
So 3 twist opposite bottom of buss cable? And 3 twist top of
control cable? I'm confused
I figured it out. Back to 70#
How you doing I hope all is well hope and you have a great hunting season you and your group. I. I have a question for you I live in New Jersey. I'm looking for PSE drive-in drive NXT and black right is right handed 60 or 70 pounds. Do you have any leftover he left over and was the price. Or do you know where I can get a good deal on 1. Cause I know PSE 2022 bows are coming out
So, i recently bought a v3x 33 with a 75lbs mod, i ran the bow with only 62lbs for a few weeks in prep for LAS Classic, after the event I maxed out the limbs to get 75lbs, but i was getting around 72lbs max. I thought maybe the strings had stretched so i used that as an excuse to get the Gas Ghost Xv, surprisingly, I'm still getting 72lbs, even after the bow guy gave a the cables a few twists. Are you running into similar stories ? - bow guy didn't feel comfortable twisting the cables any more , which i get that.
Thanks! - sorryfor the long comment
I’m also running GAS ghost xv strings and with my limb bolts tightened all the way down and I’m only getting a 67lb draw. I want to try putting a few twists to my cables to see if I can get 70lbs. For some reason the guys at my local shop make it sound like if you add twists to your cables you have to do all sorts of tuning. Don’t know how accurate that is.
Same here. New Ghost xv strings installed, can't get past 67lb. Twisted up the string a little bit. Draw weight the same, ata shortened a little, and now I've got peep twist. Going to put everything back the way it was and start over
My V3x 33 was about 1/2 inch long, when I took a couple turns each cable it measured spot on 33 but had no valley why?
Should still have a valley but you probably increased the peak weight by 5-6 lbs so you were holding more at full draw which made it feel jumpy
@@InsideOutPrecision Thanks for the reply it did increase draw weight but it definitely had no valley, I have 2 bows and this is a lower poundage to draw weight was not the problem.
I’m puzzled…thanks.
thank you, have an awesome day
I have a V3X that used to be 70 lbs. When it was at 70 I had perfect paper tears. Now after hundreds of shots and a few months time it's only pulling 67 lbs. I know that I need to twist the cables to get it back to 70. My question is, will I need to paper tune it again after I'm done?
Yes
I want to lengthen draw on my v3x by 1/4”…. How should i go about that
Add 4 twists to your cabkes and take 3 or four out of your main string.. or lengthen your d loop
Great Info there mate !!
I just purchased Hoyt strings for my Helix Ultra last week and now it maxes out at 64 lbs now. Terrible! I wish I would have known more about string options and their weight variances.
You just need to add twists to your buss and control cables until it makes weight again
Does the axel screws supposed to be lose or tigjt
@@robertvanderlick2906 just cinched tight. Don’t over torque them
Will putting twists in that Mathews change your tune?
How does this work for a single cam bow? Would I need to twist the cable AND the string? Or twist the cable at the cam then twist each yolk the same at the top by the idler wheel?
Just twist the cable
You don’t have to time the cams the same way on a single cam bow like you do a dual cam
Gotcha. So just need to take cable off of bottom cam and put a few twists in it then call it good?
@@andyjim8325 yessir!
great video thanks
Gold , thank you.
Good Video Sir.......So putting twists in the cables top and bottom equally, should not throw off your timing correct?
im wondering the same thing you ever get an answer
The guys at my local archery shop who all seem like they’re either fresh out of college or high school were telling me that if I add twists to my cables to get my bow up to 70lbs then I would have to do all sorts of tuning after. How accurate is that?
Not all sorts of tuning. You want to shoot through paper again but it’s not like starting from scratch
Why would I not turn the string on the other side of the Cam?
Adding twist to the main string will decrease draw weight. You only add twists to the cabkes
I have a 29" phase 4 and the axle to axle is about 29.25"... do I fix that this same way? I ordered a bow press and it arrives tomorrow! Got sick of my local pro shop
Yeah twisting them up will bring it into spec
Thanks! good info
Pse evo NTN when you say both sides do you add twist to both sides of the control and buss cable or just put a couple twist in each of them?
Just in each single cable that attaches to the cam, not the split harness
So if someone wanted to increase poundage, twist cables only or cable and string?
Don’t twist the string. Only the cables
Twisting the string actually decreases draw weight and shortens the draw length slightly
Very helpful 👍🎯
Zebra string are not the best, like you said the price point. Which I heard they price is going up on Mathews
Hey my bow is hoyt nitrux it's at 64 pouund it's only 65 pounds bow which string s do I add twists to increase poundage the main string or the bus cable
The bus and control cables, not the mains string
@@InsideOutPrecision thanks I appreciate it
Can you tell me if your doing one full turn, 360 degrees or are you just doing one half turn? Hard to see that, at least for my eyes.
Full turn
That was verry informative thank you verry much
See how tight the string is after the cable twist. To me, that will shorten the draw length?
Shortening the cables or adding twists, reduces your draw length by a small amount. But since they've stretched first, your draw length had gotten a little longer already, so you're just putting it back where it was.
Where are located?
Does this apply for a single cam bow?
Yes but only add twists to the buss cable on the side that connects yo the bottom cam.
Hi I just change the mods. On a Mathews V3x from # 70 and 27.5 draw length and 63 pound draw weight I replaced them with #65 and 28” draw length but after I replaced the mods the draw weight from 63 pounds went down to 55 pound draw weight I tried to crank it up but the limp is maxed out, I called Mathews costume service and said that the string and cable needs to be twisted so how many turn each the cable and string needs to be twisted? I never thought by changing the mods I would loose 8 pounds of draw weight, is this normal? Thank you
@@vincentdelbono5082 well you lost 5lbs because you went to a lower peak weight mod. If you want it at 65, turn the limb bolts all the way in and then add three twists to each cable
Thank you so much for your reply .
How do you add weight to a single limb bow. Mathews Heli M
Twist uontue buss cable where it attaches tonthw bottom cam
So I could safely take my Ventum 33 from 80 to 85lbs?
That is for a duel cam but what about a single cam
is it the same on the Hoyt RX3 ?
Great video
What about if twisting up your cables puts you shorter than recommended ATA?
I want to know this aswell, i have a 70pound evo evl at 69pounds and its past its timing dots on the cam
Then you UNtwist your string.
Does adding draw weight to Your limbs (70lbs to 73lbs) also apply to older Matthews Z7 and Z7 Magnum bows? Or does it just apply to newer bows?
Yeah if you twist up the buss cable it will increase weight on any bow
yup my creed was 69 i asked the tech to increase my #s to 73 and he did ,also my bow shot way better
my gas ghost xv
string set never lost over an ounce or 2 over 4 k shots
Really, I have same strings and I got them installed in January and it seems like I lost 2 lbs. It could also be my cabelas bow scale.
Thanks, I didnt know.
So if u need to shorten your draw length u said put a twist in the bottom cam. Won't that turn your peep?
Yeah you'll need to re position your peep. It takes at least 2-3 twists to notice any difference in DL, so if you need to do a half twist in or out to get you peep aligned its no big deal
@@InsideOutPrecision ok thanks for clearing that up
I just got my first bow, and my peep is twisting like crazy. Any easy way to fix that, or am I going to have to bring it into a shop?
Gotta take it to a shop!
@@InsideOutPrecision Back into town for me it seems! Do you by chance have a video on proper draw technique, my lead shoulder is killing me!
You can bring it to the shop or you could twist your dloop to the direction of your peep and that should fix it
Check out the Bowmar Peep Tuner.
I was just messaging Brent at A3 about this because it’s the first time I’m replacing a stock set of strings on my Halon 32 6. It’s creeped down to 69# and I started running a heavier DaySix arrow. I’d love to get an 80# bow but can you buy a new bow over treating the kids.. mmm.. so maybe I should get a supporting opinion. Should I.. get the A3 Bloodlines and twist it up to 76#s. I could afford to gain a half inch to my draw which would put me right at 32” and I’m running 75% let off so if that got closer to 80% that wouldn’t be bad either. What are your thoughts?
just buy new limbs, or be happy with your 32" DL jesus christ lol.
@@jimmywallhanger8402 I am.. its only i started shooting 600 gr arrows which I really like. I haven't clocked them for speed yet but by my calculation I'm maybe shooting 260 feet per second and I like being in the 300's. Ive got a big back, not Josh Bowmar big, but 80lbs would be nice. I'd like to know more about swapping limbs but my Mathews Dealer is like 4 hours away so unless I'm headed that way..
So I was dead on. Chronod yesterday at 260, 261, 263, 265. I was inching closer to the Chrono which could account for the gradual increase. But I was shocked I thought my arrows were under 630 and they were just above 640 with a 75 gr field tip.. so Im going to look at some 85 gr broadheads and maybe go for those Wake 80# limbs for kicks.
Is it possible for me to make my bow go out of tune by doing this?
Only if you take the cams out if time by not putting equal twists in both cables
How would you do a single cam bow?
Add twists tonthe buss cable where it attaches to the bottom cam
Thanks bro!!!!!
Is this going to change brace height at all?
If the cables have stretched and you do this then you’re actually putting it back into spec
@@InsideOutPrecision ok thank you. I put new strings on and with the new strings the bow is still #5 lower than manufacturer specs. It’s at full draw length 30” and limb bolts tight. Don’t understand it.
@@chrisunruh6485 yeah you need to add like 5 or 6 twists to your cables
I realize that is a demo bow, but do interested buyers actually shoot the bow without any peep tie in at all safely.
So, maybe a dumb question, could you get away with reducing the weight a little by removing twists? Let’s say it’s pulling heavy but you want to keep the limb bolts snugged all the way down.
Yeah you can take twists out of the cables to reduce peak weight
@@InsideOutPrecision How much could you reduce it by? Could you get away with taking 5 lbs off?
@@mat_in_texas I would just take a turn or two out of the limb bolts in that case. Taking that many turns out of the cables will take your bows ATA and brace height significantly out of spec
Does this affect overall bow tuning and timing of the cams?
Youll definitely want to check timing again. But if you put equal twists in each cable it shouldn't change
Hey after you did 3 twist on each end you didn't check timing I kno u kno what ur doing im just saying don't u some times have to do 3 twist at one and an maybe 4 or only 2 to make sure timing is correct you see what I'm saying thanks for your time
Yeah I mention towards the end that you will want to check timing again. Thanks for watching!
What are your favorite aftermarket strings ?
Gas Ghost
@@InsideOutPrecision thanks
@@InsideOutPrecision how are the served end loops on Gas strings and clearances within the cam track and the cam post with binding there is some tight tolerances in the machining of the cam .
Hence why anytime I buy a bow first thing I do is throw factory strings in the garage where they belong lol
interesting stuff
What gets confusing to me is when you and others interchange terms, as in strings and cables.
It's not interchanging terms there are both a string and cables on a compound bow.
I caught this to, him speaking of twisting the cables, pointing out the Y cable, then moves onto twisting the string, never touching the Y cable.
I always use after market strings. That are pre stretched. My poundage stays pretty good at 62 pounds . 1st thing I do to a bow is put after market strings on. Nice video
The V3 is the best bow I have ever shoot. Easy to draw and shoots like a dream. Not sure how Mathews could make something better.
Better strings😉 #zebrastrings are weak
and better bearings - if you have a long DL and shoot a high poundage there is a very good chance that your bearings are gone after just 3000 shots....
@@demunbell and the centre serving is so spongy that there is a high risk that the knocking points thread cut in and damage the string....and out of the blue the string will break....
Good video, but you kept calling the string a cable and the cables the string
Mathews makes good bows but their strings are the worst factory stings. You d think they would do better on that end.
If I'd watched the whole video I guess hoyts stock strings are bad too.lol
the cam bearings are also very poor quality....
Using the words cable and string interchangeably creates some confusion.
Well there’s a cable and a string. Two different things
Giveaway!
Bb
That's all OK but now your bow draw length will be way to long,
No it won't. It barely changes it. Like maybe 1/16"
Zebra strings are not good man. I’ve had way better luck with fuse strings. But I am an avid GAS string guy.
Fuse?! They're barely ahead of Vapor Trail, which are basically a rubber band.
@@InsideOutPrecision Wish I would’ve heard this a year ago before I had a Vapor Trail string put on my bow. I feel like I downgraded from the Zebra. Lots of stretch and the peep won’t stop rotating.