Thank you for these vids. Replaced both ECT sensors, thermostat and coolant. 🤞 I asked the Mazda parts guy about a new radiator cap and he said, "we never replace those for this repair" 😅
I have a 2016 Mazda CX-5. Had code PO11A around 92,000 miles. Mazda replaced the heater core and flushed coolant twice. Same code appeared around 122,000 miles. Mechanic recommeded thermostat and ECT replacement. My OBD scanner is showing coolant temperature is averaging 220 degreees and when idling with the air conditioning running, coolant temperature has reached 250 degrees which activates the flashing red overheating indicator. The scanner is showing both sensors have the same temperature. If I run the heat the coolant temperature begins to drop. Does this indicate that the heater core needs to be replaced?
@@lowellharrison2068 No sounds like your heater core is working fine. You may have a sticking thermostat, your coolant should not be reaching those temperatures. I would do what I did in the video replace the thermostat, and pressure cap. Use coolant ment for Mazda. If that doesn’t fix your problem then you may need a new radiator. Assuming your water pump is working properly. Hope this helps
My wife's 16 cx5 just threw this code. The ect 1 is within range and ect 2 is well below what it should be even after running for awhile. Would you think the sensors would suffice or should I replace the thermostat and do coolant flush like you do here?
Just got the same code on a 16 cx5. Very cold outside (5 degrees) , car doesn’t seem to heat up at idle but does when driving around. I’m thinking thermostat, any thoughts?
Cars pretty much always heat up slow at idle. Can you see engine temperature on your vehicles? If so once the vehicle is fully warmed up after driving which is prolly somewhere around 190-200 degrees Fahrenheit. If the engine continuously hovers below those numbers your thermostat could be stuck open
I would start by disconnecting the fan get some gator clips and see if the fans turn on manually. If they do and the fuses aren’t bad then the coolant temp sensor may be bad. If the fans don’t turn on using the gator clips then the fans needs to be replaced
Yes it worked check engine light did not return. Part of the repair included draining and refilling the coolant in the process I changed the thermostat and rad cap as well
thanx for replying and your right i ended up taking it back to my guy and he right away knew that his assistant more than likely didn't burp the coolant system and also didn't add or do anything to the coolant after replacing the sensors letting air in, all we had to do was add coolant burp the lines and the code went away has not returned anymore i recommend first at least making sure theres no air in your system before flushing and or replacing thermostats unnecessarily and what not unless you really think you could use new gear either way thanx for the guide and info brother keep the great work up
@@rickybobby7276 no i did not have to just burped the coolant lines and that did the trick there was allot of air in the after swapping the sensors it took some in
@@rickybobby7276 just like our video host here when my guys apprentice swapped the sensors and no coolant leaked he figured oh no need to burp or add any and when i took it back my guy knew exactly what it was just turned and asked the dude did you burp the lines or add topped it of he said no didnt think it needed any and right away he burped it in like 25 minutes topped it off as he went along and that did the trick it did not come back a third time
Thank you for these vids. Replaced both ECT sensors, thermostat and coolant. 🤞 I asked the Mazda parts guy about a new radiator cap and he said, "we never replace those for this repair" 😅
Rad caps are rarely replaced but it’s cheap insurance
True. the aftermarket ones are just not a pretty and don’t have FL22 on them 😉
Thank you for the no frills, down to business video. It helped me fix the same error code on my vehicle. Cheers mate!
Thank you so much for this series of videos. Super informative and helpful!
Very helpful video. thanks.
I have a 2016 Mazda CX-5. Had code PO11A around 92,000 miles. Mazda replaced the heater core and flushed coolant twice. Same code appeared around 122,000 miles. Mechanic recommeded thermostat and ECT replacement. My OBD scanner is showing coolant temperature is averaging 220 degreees and when idling with the air conditioning running, coolant temperature has reached 250 degrees which activates the flashing red overheating indicator. The scanner is showing both sensors have the same temperature. If I run the heat the coolant temperature begins to drop. Does this indicate that the heater core needs to be replaced?
@@lowellharrison2068 No sounds like your heater core is working fine. You may have a sticking thermostat, your coolant should not be reaching those temperatures. I would do what I did in the video replace the thermostat, and pressure cap. Use coolant ment for Mazda. If that doesn’t fix your problem then you may need a new radiator. Assuming your water pump is working properly. Hope this helps
My wife's 16 cx5 just threw this code. The ect 1 is within range and ect 2 is well below what it should be even after running for awhile. Would you think the sensors would suffice or should I replace the thermostat and do coolant flush like you do here?
I would start with replacing the ECT sensor 2. First and then see what happens I have a video for the sensor 2 replacement
Im struggling to find both ect sensors on a 2014 mazda 6 2.2 diesel one reads normal and the other constantly reads 135 celcius
Just got the same code on a 16 cx5. Very cold outside (5 degrees) , car doesn’t seem to heat up at idle but does when driving around. I’m thinking thermostat, any thoughts?
Cars pretty much always heat up slow at idle. Can you see engine temperature on your vehicles? If so once the vehicle is fully warmed up after driving which is prolly somewhere around 190-200 degrees Fahrenheit. If the engine continuously hovers below those numbers your thermostat could be stuck open
The Coolant control valve is faulty on many Mazda models… and a new one is very expensive 🤨
Hey quick question I have a 2014 mazda 6 with the 2.5, my fans aren’t kicking on I already checked fuses. Any idea what it could be?
I would start by disconnecting the fan get some gator clips and see if the fans turn on manually. If they do and the fuses aren’t bad then the coolant temp sensor may be bad. If the fans don’t turn on using the gator clips then the fans needs to be replaced
did this end up working im going through same issue my light came back after replacing both ects ? did yours come back ?
Yes it worked check engine light did not return. Part of the repair included draining and refilling the coolant in the process I changed the thermostat and rad cap as well
thanx for replying and your right i ended up taking it back to my guy and he right away knew that his assistant more than likely didn't burp the coolant system and also didn't add or do anything to the coolant after replacing the sensors letting air in, all we had to do was add coolant burp the lines and the code went away has not returned anymore i recommend first at least making sure theres no air in your system before flushing and or replacing thermostats unnecessarily and what not unless you really think you could use new gear either way thanx for the guide and info brother keep the great work up
@@rickybobby7276 no i did not have to just burped the coolant lines and that did the trick there was allot of air in the after swapping the sensors it took some in
@@rickybobby7276 just like our video host here when my guys apprentice swapped the sensors and no coolant leaked he figured oh no need to burp or add any and when i took it back my guy knew exactly what it was just turned and asked the dude did you burp the lines or add topped it of he said no didnt think it needed any and right away he burped it in like 25 minutes topped it off as he went along and that did the trick it did not come back a third time