I've been there before, when you end up needing to bleed again and again and again 😮 From what i've learned you should always keep the bleeding screw sealed while both undoing it and tightning it back, because if you leave it loose you will introduce more air again to the brake lines, but it was nice to see you doing a video on how to do this replacement 😄 One, like myself who has a decent knowledge when it comes to fixing cars, i find myself learning new things when watching these videos 😊 Although i am very familiar with brake parts replacements, there's always something new to learn 😄 BTW! I sent you an e-mail.
Yeah, one small mistake and you have to redo most of the job 😅 For me the copper washer wasn't sealing anymore... so yeah. I 100% agree with you. Bleeding the breaks is most important. That's why you want the special tool that puts a vacuum on the line, so you can turn the bleeder screw and not worry about getting air in the line. In the video I showed the most '' janky way to do it'', fill up the reservoir to the max and let gravity + stomping the brake pedal do all the work. 😂 We learn something new every day. I'm learning plenty from the comments on these videos too. Already taken care of, Thank you for sending an email. 👍
FYI: the wire springs on the pads are not installed correctly - they are ment to drive away the pads from the disc. They schould be horizontally, not vertically. 12:21
Bro you are way better then mechanics in my neighbourhood. They only want to change parts fast as possible to charge another customer and often the job is not done properly. With tutorials like yours I would definetly try myself just dont have a place where I could do it in peace. Stil looking for a EU after lift 2.5 L in liftback version (were they even produced Im not sure at this point lol) but they are nowhere to be found, I think I have to decide between 2.0 DISI after lift or 2.5 before lift. Do you have any opinion on the 2.0 DISI version ?
Mechanics just want the job to be done and move on. They have the knowledge and do the same job many times, so yeah, I kind of don't blame them, but in the end, it's their job to do everything properly. BUT, it's brakes... They are a VERY important part of the car. If a job is done badly, people could get injured or in the worst case die. ( that's why I did soo many checks in the video) I know how you feel. I had to wait 3 weeks before I could replace the brake caliper. As I want to have a place to safely do it. so you are looking for a facelift GH? It mostly depends on what Engine you want. You can always do a facelift upgrade on the older model. But it all depends what you want.
Today 17.05 10:03 AM , my Mazda 6 GH 2011 is at the mechanic for the 4th day consecutive after changing brake calipers and disks 3 weeks ago. A rattling noise started to develop. I have changed everything on from shock absorbers, all arms and pivots to planetary shaft bearings. Now I have another noise coming from the middle of the car . Bearings from the stabiliser bar need replaced . I have spent 1300 euros for something that should have be done properly from the begining. NOTHING was rattling when i first got it into the service. Hopefully I will get it out today , it will go to the detailing soon and I should be done with her. 😉 One question: Why is the brake on the left side squeaking when brake applied ? He rechanged he sprayed it with WD 40 and it still squiking badly ....after 3 weeks of use Mechanics = parts changers nowadays....
Ouf, that's really bad. You know that 600 euros from 1300 went to the mechanic, not in your car or parts. WD40 on breaks. 😳 never ever again go to that mechanic. WD40 got no place or use at brakes. Please, after you get your car back, go to another mechanic and Mazda dealer, and ask them to check over the car. As you are saying parts changer is almost 99.8% correct. They fix one thing but break another so the customer returns. That's a tactic I caught on my BMW. They had to replace 3 breather hoses for the engine and did bother to put the screws that hold down the air box, Overtime it will rattle and break the mass air flow sensor, which would make the car run rough. Brake squeaking could be a couple of things, the brake pads are worn down to the wear tab, so it squeaks as a warning to change them. No copper grease or anti-seize on the brake pads sides and the back, or no grease/ anti-seize on the break hardware themselves. Could be dirt stuck in the brake pad surface and squeaking.
I’ve never seen a ceased up calliper before. I don’t think I would want to try that myself at home. But I’m curious did you try finding bigger MPS6 discs and calipers? I heard it is a straight bolt on upgrade.
Upgrades and mods will come after fixing the car. Half of that is correct, with the RIGHT / correct kit and parts yes. But you will need adapters and extra. The caliper and rim are the size how they are, to big upgrades and they can rub on the inner wheel or you won't be able to bolt down the caliper.
Recently took car in for brake fluid change and they couldnt bleed properly due to rounded bleed nipples, do i have to change out brake calipers? Or is there alternatives
They are literally hollow bolts with threads on the bottom, an 8 mm size head for a spanner or socket and the top is round for putting on a hose for a vacuum. So if they are rounded off, forcing on a 7mm socket will do the trick. (use 7 mm long socket and a hammer ) *As long as you have the new bleed nipples ready*. Once you remove them, the brake fluid will leak out.
Got a 2011 6 TS2 which has annoying boing type knock mildly felt through the gearstick when pulling away. Been back to mechanics three times no fault found. I’ve changed all droplinks and sway bar bushes front and rear as with a new gearbox mounting. Any ideas. Thanks.
Hard to say. Whiteout hearing the noise it's hard to tell. By going the way you described it, Pulling away and can be felt in gearstick. So when the engine is reving up / on a load. First things what comes in my mind engine mounts / gear box mounts, clutch bearing, clutch itself or flywheel, CV shafts. But this is a guess, with out hearing it or feeling the general direction / vibrations won't be able to tell.
suspension parts worn? I doubt it would be gearbox, or drive shaft, they are rotating all the time. you would hear the sounds all the time. So only at that situation? no knocking while turning the wheel lock to lock, or driving over bumps?
@@KlavsX_ I’m convinced it’s either the connection of the Dow pipe to engine or down pipe to DPF as the noise has this sort of “boing” type noise Thanks for replying
If you have jack or a way how to get under the car and give all of them a good shake, you should be able to find the trouble maker. I'm curious too, what is making that noise for you
Hi Klav, where did you buy the new caliper for £50 or even £80. I'm being quoted £138 🤦🏽♂️ Any help would be appreciated. I have 2010 2.0 petrol Mazda 6.
My wife: what are you watching honey? Me: Im watching a squirting video 😂 Word of the day learned: copper washer. Thank you for another great Mazda 6 DIY video my friend 🫡 I was wondering what are the pros and cons when you compare this Mazda 6 vs your old car Klavs?
😆 now that's a funny situation. Random guy on screen making a car squirt 😂😂😂 Happy that you all enjoy them. 👍 Do you want to know the pros and cons of comparing my old 2003 BMW E46 320i to the 2010 Mazda 6 GH sport? There are loads of things I can say about each car. it all depends on how detailed you want to know. I can make 1 sentence about each car or make a 20 min rant video talking about them both 😅😆😂😅
Good video, thanks dude.
You are welcome. 👍 Good luck
I've been there before, when you end up needing to bleed again and again and again 😮 From what i've learned you should always keep the bleeding screw sealed while both undoing it and tightning it back, because if you leave it loose you will introduce more air again to the brake lines, but it was nice to see you doing a video on how to do this replacement 😄 One, like myself who has a decent knowledge when it comes to fixing cars, i find myself learning new things when watching these videos 😊 Although i am very familiar with brake parts replacements, there's always something new to learn 😄
BTW! I sent you an e-mail.
Yeah, one small mistake and you have to redo most of the job 😅 For me the copper washer wasn't sealing anymore... so yeah.
I 100% agree with you. Bleeding the breaks is most important. That's why you want the special tool that puts a vacuum on the line, so you can turn the bleeder screw and not worry about getting air in the line.
In the video I showed the most '' janky way to do it'', fill up the reservoir to the max and let gravity + stomping the brake pedal do all the work. 😂
We learn something new every day. I'm learning plenty from the comments on these videos too.
Already taken care of, Thank you for sending an email. 👍
Thanks again Klavs. I have a 2.0 GH mazda6 in the UK so seeing someone doing this in the UK is great!
You are welcome. Oh, nice you are in the UK too. 👍
I hope your Mazda has a full-service history and all that important stuff
FYI: the wire springs on the pads are not installed correctly - they are ment to drive away the pads from the disc. They schould be horizontally, not vertically. 12:21
Thank you for the information.
That's how the wire springs were when I got the car, never questioned it , if it was wrong or right. 👍
Buen trabajo....gracias por tu esfuerzo
Thank you. Glad you like the video 👍
Bro you are way better then mechanics in my neighbourhood. They only want to change parts fast as possible to charge another customer and often the job is not done properly. With tutorials like yours I would definetly try myself just dont have a place where I could do it in peace. Stil looking for a EU after lift 2.5 L in liftback version (were they even produced Im not sure at this point lol) but they are nowhere to be found, I think I have to decide between 2.0 DISI after lift or 2.5 before lift. Do you have any opinion on the 2.0 DISI version ?
Mechanics just want the job to be done and move on. They have the knowledge and do the same job many times, so yeah, I kind of don't blame them, but in the end, it's their job to do everything properly. BUT, it's brakes... They are a VERY important part of the car.
If a job is done badly, people could get injured or in the worst case die. ( that's why I did soo many checks in the video)
I know how you feel. I had to wait 3 weeks before I could replace the brake caliper. As I want to have a place to safely do it.
so you are looking for a facelift GH?
It mostly depends on what Engine you want. You can always do a facelift upgrade on the older model. But it all depends what you want.
Today 17.05 10:03 AM , my Mazda 6 GH 2011 is at the mechanic for the 4th day consecutive after changing brake calipers and disks 3 weeks ago. A rattling noise started to develop. I have changed everything on from shock absorbers, all arms and pivots to planetary shaft bearings. Now I have another noise coming from the middle of the car . Bearings from the stabiliser bar need replaced . I have spent 1300 euros for something that should have be done properly from the begining. NOTHING was rattling when i first got it into the service. Hopefully I will get it out today , it will go to the detailing soon and I should be done with her. 😉
One question: Why is the brake on the left side squeaking when brake applied ? He rechanged he sprayed it with WD 40 and it still squiking badly ....after 3 weeks of use
Mechanics = parts changers nowadays....
Ouf, that's really bad. You know that 600 euros from 1300 went to the mechanic, not in your car or parts.
WD40 on breaks. 😳 never ever again go to that mechanic. WD40 got no place or use at brakes.
Please, after you get your car back, go to another mechanic and Mazda dealer, and ask them to check over the car.
As you are saying parts changer is almost 99.8% correct. They fix one thing but break another so the customer returns.
That's a tactic I caught on my BMW. They had to replace 3 breather hoses for the engine and did bother to put the screws that hold down the air box, Overtime it will rattle and break the mass air flow sensor, which would make the car run rough.
Brake squeaking could be a couple of things, the brake pads are worn down to the wear tab, so it squeaks as a warning to change them.
No copper grease or anti-seize on the brake pads sides and the back, or no grease/ anti-seize on the break hardware themselves.
Could be dirt stuck in the brake pad surface and squeaking.
I’ve never seen a ceased up calliper before. I don’t think I would want to try that myself at home. But I’m curious did you try finding bigger MPS6 discs and calipers? I heard it is a straight bolt on upgrade.
Upgrades and mods will come after fixing the car.
Half of that is correct, with the RIGHT / correct kit and parts yes. But you will need adapters and extra.
The caliper and rim are the size how they are, to big upgrades and they can rub on the inner wheel or you won't be able to bolt down the caliper.
Recently took car in for brake fluid change and they couldnt bleed properly due to rounded bleed nipples, do i have to change out brake calipers? Or is there alternatives
🤔 Sounds like they didn't wanted to do the job. You can replace the bleed nipples themselves. No need to replace all the caliper.
@@KlavsX_ oh wow, how should i get it out properly then
They are literally hollow bolts with threads on the bottom, an 8 mm size head for a spanner or socket and the top is round for putting on a hose for a vacuum. So if they are rounded off, forcing on a 7mm socket will do the trick. (use 7 mm long socket and a hammer ) *As long as you have the new bleed nipples ready*. Once you remove them, the brake fluid will leak out.
thank u @@KlavsX_
Hi. The two brake pad spreader springs (clips) are installed incorrectly. :--)
Fixed it in another video. 👍
Got a 2011 6 TS2 which has annoying boing type knock mildly felt through the gearstick when pulling away. Been back to mechanics three times no fault found. I’ve changed all droplinks and sway bar bushes front and rear as with a new gearbox mounting. Any ideas. Thanks.
Hard to say. Whiteout hearing the noise it's hard to tell.
By going the way you described it, Pulling away and can be felt in gearstick. So when the engine is reving up / on a load.
First things what comes in my mind engine mounts / gear box mounts, clutch bearing, clutch itself or flywheel, CV shafts.
But this is a guess, with out hearing it or feeling the general direction / vibrations won't be able to tell.
@@KlavsX_ it’s just on take up slowly pulling away can’t hear it on motorways etc just that initial pulling away slowly
Thanks
suspension parts worn? I doubt it would be gearbox, or drive shaft, they are rotating all the time. you would hear the sounds all the time.
So only at that situation? no knocking while turning the wheel lock to lock, or driving over bumps?
@@KlavsX_ I’m convinced it’s either the connection of the Dow pipe to engine or down pipe to DPF as the noise has this sort of “boing” type noise
Thanks for replying
If you have jack or a way how to get under the car and give all of them a good shake, you should be able to find the trouble maker.
I'm curious too, what is making that noise for you
Hi Klav, where did you buy the new caliper for £50 or even £80. I'm being quoted £138 🤦🏽♂️ Any help would be appreciated. I have 2010 2.0 petrol Mazda 6.
Oh nice 2010 2.0. I found my ones on Ebay from Chrysler supplier. There are many calipers but this one was reasonably priced with good reviews
My wife: what are you watching honey?
Me: Im watching a squirting video 😂
Word of the day learned: copper washer.
Thank you for another great Mazda 6 DIY video my friend 🫡
I was wondering what are the pros and cons when you compare this Mazda 6 vs your old car Klavs?
😆 now that's a funny situation. Random guy on screen making a car squirt 😂😂😂
Happy that you all enjoy them. 👍
Do you want to know the pros and cons of comparing my old 2003 BMW E46 320i to the 2010 Mazda 6 GH sport?
There are loads of things I can say about each car. it all depends on how detailed you want to know.
I can make 1 sentence about each car or make a 20 min rant video talking about them both 😅😆😂😅
You should totally make a rant video about that bro. I would love to hear it and I bet your other viewers as well 👍
@@tommybravo842 I'll see what I can do.
This weekend I might get a chance to record
Wish i had that space to play with
😅Wish that would be true. Had to pay to use that space 😅