Dude this video is so helpful. I'm about to swap a 5.3 with 128xxx miles into my 95 trans am, and I know I'm gonna have to refresh some stuff up. This video really did help.
The rear crank seal cover has a tool to center it. You put the cover on first with the centering tool tighten it down to spec remove the centering tool then add the seal. I just had one hell of a time learning that..
Don’t over complicate things . If the motor spins and has compression just send it . Do a rebuild once the cars running and all problems are sorted out . I have a 220k 5.3 in my 79 trans am . Have 10k miles in it and 60 or so passes with a smallish turbo .
@@racingjunk7024you think I should just change the rear and front main seal(+oil pan) and just send it(15Xxxx miles); or should I change all the gaskets ? I was going to replace them(1st time) but I just want to swap it already 😂
Probably already suggested but in a pinch you can still use your allen-key as a torque wrench. Here you go: figure out how long the distance is between 1.) the head where the allen-key fits onto the fastener and 2.) the load point (i.e. the parallel distance between these two lines-of-action). This will give you the "lever-arm" distance. Then, you can connect a fish scale (analog or digital) and pull with some force at that load-point. To calculate the required force (push or pull) to create a 15 ft-lb torque using a 6" lever-arm (for example) you would divid the 15 ft-lbs by the lever arm distance in feet (6" / 12" = 0.5') which ends up equating to 30 lbs force. If you instead extend your lever-arm distance to say 2ft, then the required force would be 7.5 lbs to get a 15 ft-lbs of torque. In case this helps...
I appreciate the suggestion! I would get 90000 arm chair engineers and physics telling me how wrong that is because of an advanced math property of metal deflection. You wouldn't believe the amount of alleged experts comment on my stuff. I like your idea though! Thanks for watching!
This has been an excellent series, it is so nice to see this engine on a stand, disassembled. I've read that some LS engines have only one stock bolt installed for the oil pickup tube, shown being installed at 15:13. It seems like a critical connection, since an air leak at the seal would draw in air and reduce oil delivery to the pump. Any thoughts about locktite there?
Thank you very much! Luckily on ours it is a 2 bolt arrangement. I usually only put locktite on things that spin crazy fast. These bolts won't move at all and they are kinda small, wouldn't want to break them off in the future trying to get them out. Thanks for watching!
Hey Ryan! You did notice that main cap stud hitting the pickup tube close to the bend at the front of the motor, right? Vibration might wear through the tube. 🤷🏼♂️
Hey thanks for watching! Yeah I did see that it was close but its juuuuust far away enough to miss. That's why I put that washer under the pickup tube mount. Good eye though!
@@2carpros okay cool. another set of eyes on things like that never hurts. i'm glad it all came together like that. i'm dying from anticipation to see the dyno of this motor. i plan on following this series almost step by step for an LM7 i'm going to put in a 95 jeep wrangler. again, thank you for all this, and i appreciate the masking tape removal sound effects.. lol
Hey Ryan I am working on rebuilding the same engine however I am putting ours in my project BMW. Would the stock or aftermarket oil pan be able to clear the ground in a lower sitting car or would I have to find a flatter oil pan?
I just worked on a LS swapped 2009 BMW 330i and they had a much shorter pan on it. I believe it is the same pan we used for the 1955 Bel Air LS Swap series we did here on the channel. I think the stock pan is a bit too deep for a modern swap, won't clear the steering rack or might drag on the ground. Thanks for watching!
What is the difference between the Delphi lifters for $160 and the $330 Chevrolet performance brand ones? Trying to find a decent lifter and OE trays for my lm7. Old ones look terrible. Thanks
The fel-pro instructions online & rebuild book I have say not to lubricate the crank or inner surface of the rear seal. Have you had problems installing them dry or leaks installing after lubing them? Great videos!! Thank you
I did a complete dod. New cam, lifters, oil pump, o ring, seals gaskets etc. Upon startup I get 40psi+ at idle after warmup pressure drops to below 10. When driving and o back off the throttle the pressure rose for a while but returns to 10 or less. Any suggestions?
I can think of a few possibilities. Sounds like either an oil plug is missing, your oil plunger/diverter is missing or in wrong, the oil pump itself is bad, governor spring in oil pump is bad, or there isn't enough distance from the bottom of the pan and pick up. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros thanks for the reply. Oil pump is new. Hope it’s not that. Removed the bypass in the pan and plugged it off. No need for the pressure bypass without dod. I did not plug the ports to the solenoids but replaced the vlom with a new valley cover from summit racing for non dod engine. Thanks again
2x Question 1 do you have a shop I would like you to do my engine 2 I feel the factory filter is kinda small is there a kit to use a taller filter to filter more oil
I just do videos, we don't really assemble engines for customers. There is a taller filter you can just put on, I forget the part number but it is out there. Thanks for watching!
The oil pickup tube bolts are not 8mm they are 6mm x 1.00 thread pitch. When talking bolts they are not measured by the size of the head of the bolt!!!
Bolts are commonly referred to by which sized socket drives the head of the bolt. No one cares what the thread and pitch are. People are very much interested in how to put it together rather than agonizing over the technical size of the thread. Thanks for watching!
Is it worth it to build a LM7 or if you had to do it all over again, would you had found a Gen IV aluminum block? I have a LM7 sitting in my garage and am leaning towards finding me an aluminum block
Great question! Considering the expense of the the aluminum block and we aren't going racing or anything. There really isn't a huge upside to one. I would definitely build a LM7 again. Thanks for watching!
I didn't the machine shop did. If I had to do it, I'd just drill a small hole in it and pry it out with a screw driver. BUT you need to clean it super thoroughly after that so you don't have metal chips in it. Thanks for watching!
Do you have a list of everything you ordered for this engine? And can I get it all from summit racing in one order? If so please send me the link. I want to build this exact engine watching your videos. I am a contractor and don't know a lot about this. But you describe what you are doing pretty dam good. And i can follow directions lol.
I don't have a complete list as of right this second. Summit is going to put a part list together on their site though and yes you could order it all in one go. You can go through every video and click on all the links in every video though in the meantime. If you can follow directions you can totally build this 5.3L the exact way I have. Thanks for watching Bruce!
Curious how much all of these parts would cost in today's prices. Summit sells a pre machined option for the 5.3 for $3699. I[m looking for a this motor right now and can't find anything for less than about $900. A few hundred extra for some additional parts, but man, having a machine shop make these updates, plus cost of a used motor, and all these summit parts, I'm thinking this has to be close to $3700. Anyone happen to know about how much all of this would cost today?
You seem to know alot about building engines, but sorry, I have to ask if you were really comfortable with having to modify the pickup tube assembly to make it fit. And also, you really just blew off the different colored o-ring instructions to install the one that came on the assembly. They already sent you an oil pick up tube assembly that didn't fit, why would you just accept the o-ring they provided? Seems like that's a whole lot of money riding on which color o-ring is correct.
It would not have worked without slight modification or we would have had very low oil pressure. I picked the best fitting O-ring after a few test fits. Not to mention if it had lower oil pressure it is the first thing I would have checked. It wouldn't have had any problems we would have intervened before that. But it didn't this thing passed with flying colors on the Dyno make sure to check out just how much power we ended up making. Thanks for watching!
It's sold on ebay and Speedway motors for $316 ish.... it's just a cheap rebranded Chinese pan... although...I do think it's a pretty slick option. I'm just not sure on how great the fitment is in terms of pickup to pan clearance. He didn't even check it. It's a vital measurement!
I just watched all seven episodes! I love this series, pls keep them coming
So cool thank you! We are working on #8 right now. Thanks for watching!
Really appreciate this series man! Giving me the confidence to rip open an old 5.3 i've had laying around for years!
Very cool! Let me know how it goes! Thanks for watching!
Did you start yet?
@@TrumpsEarBandage all I’ve done so far is park the donor truck in the shop and I bought an engine stand haha
@@ronijatt69 at least you’ve started bro!!!! Good luck
@@TrumpsEarBandage Thanks! you starting a build too?
Definitely the best Ls engine build series I’ve seen so far
Thanks so much for watching!
You are awesome. Clear and concise instructions. Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Dude this video is so helpful. I'm about to swap a 5.3 with 128xxx miles into my 95 trans am, and I know I'm gonna have to refresh some stuff up. This video really did help.
Nice! That sounds awesome! Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros my question is with f body oil pan. Do you think I have to make adjustments for the windage tray or can I use the stock 5.3 windage tray?
The rear crank seal cover has a tool to center it. You put the cover on first with the centering tool tighten it down to spec remove the centering tool then add the seal. I just had one hell of a time learning that..
The blue devil does too luckily! Thanks for watching!
Great video series. Looking to get a 5.3L for a rebuild and will be using your videos a lot!
Awesome! Thank you! That's what it is here for!
Don’t over complicate things . If the motor spins and has compression just send it . Do a rebuild once the cars running and all problems are sorted out . I have a 220k 5.3 in my 79 trans am . Have 10k miles in it and 60 or so passes with a smallish turbo .
@@racingjunk7024hey man I got a question
@@MOE13576 sure what’s your question
@@racingjunk7024you think I should just change the rear and front main seal(+oil pan) and just send it(15Xxxx miles); or should I change all the gaskets ? I was going to replace them(1st time) but I just want to swap it already 😂
Probably already suggested but in a pinch you can still use your allen-key as a torque wrench. Here you go: figure out how long the distance is between 1.) the head where the allen-key fits onto the fastener and 2.) the load point (i.e. the parallel distance between these two lines-of-action). This will give you the "lever-arm" distance. Then, you can connect a fish scale (analog or digital) and pull with some force at that load-point.
To calculate the required force (push or pull) to create a 15 ft-lb torque using a 6" lever-arm (for example) you would divid the 15 ft-lbs by the lever arm distance in feet (6" / 12" = 0.5') which ends up equating to 30 lbs force.
If you instead extend your lever-arm distance to say 2ft, then the required force would be 7.5 lbs to get a 15 ft-lbs of torque.
In case this helps...
I appreciate the suggestion! I would get 90000 arm chair engineers and physics telling me how wrong that is because of an advanced math property of metal deflection. You wouldn't believe the amount of alleged experts comment on my stuff. I like your idea though!
Thanks for watching!
Watching your vids gave me the confidence to do my oil pan upgrade myself
You can do it! Thanks for watching!
Best to measure pick up to bottom of pan clearance, my summit pick up actually hit the bottom of the summit pan and you could rock it side to side,
Interesting! I've always had good look with Summit pans and pickups. Thanks for watching!
This is exactly what I needed to get my 5.3 In my brz
These are great videos! Can't wait for video 8. I'm getting ready to build a 6.0 LQ4 here soon to get put in my silverado.
Thanks so much for watching Kenneth! It will be out this Saturday! :)
Did it leak since the centering tools wasn’t used on the seals?
Nope. Thanks for watching!
Great video series. I found in SI that the pick up tube bolts are 106 in lbs
Nice find! Thanks for watching!
Thanks brother, very helpful info
Thank you so much for watching!
That torq wrench u used should switch to inch and degrees. I used one that looks just like it.
New subscriber!!!🔥🔥🔥🔥
Thanks 💯
This has been an excellent series, it is so nice to see this engine on a stand, disassembled. I've read that some LS engines have only one stock bolt installed for the oil pickup tube, shown being installed at 15:13. It seems like a critical connection, since an air leak at the seal would draw in air and reduce oil delivery to the pump. Any thoughts about locktite there?
Thank you very much! Luckily on ours it is a 2 bolt arrangement. I usually only put locktite on things that spin crazy fast. These bolts won't move at all and they are kinda small, wouldn't want to break them off in the future trying to get them out. Thanks for watching!
Will that oil pan work on a rwd tbss and envoy Denali with some modifications?
GREAT JOB AMIGO THANK YOU FOR YOU TIME
My pleasure! Thanks for watching!
Great series so far, where is the other car pro?
He works mostly on our website www.2CarPros.com but he does come and help me with shoots sometimes. Thanks for watching Lee!
Super )Thank you 👍👍👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Hey Ryan! You did notice that main cap stud hitting the pickup tube close to the bend at the front of the motor, right? Vibration might wear through the tube. 🤷🏼♂️
Hey thanks for watching! Yeah I did see that it was close but its juuuuust far away enough to miss. That's why I put that washer under the pickup tube mount. Good eye though!
@@2carpros okay cool. another set of eyes on things like that never hurts. i'm glad it all came together like that. i'm dying from anticipation to see the dyno of this motor. i plan on following this series almost step by step for an LM7 i'm going to put in a 95 jeep wrangler. again, thank you for all this, and i appreciate the masking tape removal sound effects.. lol
Hey Ryan I am working on rebuilding the same engine however I am putting ours in my project BMW. Would the stock or aftermarket oil pan be able to clear the ground in a lower sitting car or would I have to find a flatter oil pan?
I just worked on a LS swapped 2009 BMW 330i and they had a much shorter pan on it. I believe it is the same pan we used for the 1955 Bel Air LS Swap series we did here on the channel. I think the stock pan is a bit too deep for a modern swap, won't clear the steering rack or might drag on the ground. Thanks for watching!
What about pick-up tube to pan clearance? Did you verify spacing?
What is the difference between the Delphi lifters for $160 and the $330 Chevrolet performance brand ones? Trying to find a decent lifter and OE trays for my lm7. Old ones look terrible. Thanks
The fel-pro instructions online & rebuild book I have say not to lubricate the crank or inner surface of the rear seal. Have you had problems installing them dry or leaks installing after lubing them? Great videos!! Thank you
I would worry about the seal starting dry and tearing. I prefer to do the way I did it. Thanks for watching!
Use some white grease will be fine
Very informative videos 👍
Thanks for watching Marty!
When is 8 coming out ? Just watched all 7
Awesome! 8 will be out this Saturday!
my oil pickup tube on my lm7 only had one bolt i had to buy an adapter that held the other side down does that pickup tube fix that whole scenario?
Yeah it should BUT make sure it fits whatever oil pan you have. Not all pickups fit all pans. Thanks for watching!
I did a complete dod. New cam, lifters, oil pump, o ring, seals gaskets etc. Upon startup I get 40psi+ at idle after warmup pressure drops to below 10. When driving and o back off the throttle the pressure rose for a while but returns to 10 or less. Any suggestions?
I can think of a few possibilities. Sounds like either an oil plug is missing, your oil plunger/diverter is missing or in wrong, the oil pump itself is bad, governor spring in oil pump is bad, or there isn't enough distance from the bottom of the pan and pick up. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros thanks for the reply. Oil pump is new. Hope it’s not that. Removed the bypass in the pan and plugged it off. No need for the pressure bypass without dod. I did not plug the ports to the solenoids but replaced the vlom with a new valley cover from summit racing for non dod engine. Thanks again
Check the pick up tube o ring
Do you use any silicone on any of the oil pan corners?
Yeah where the front and rear covers meet at the pan. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros Thanks man, my pleasure!
Link to the pickup tube?
2x Question
1 do you have a shop I would like you to do my engine
2 I feel the factory filter is kinda small is there a kit to use a taller filter to filter more oil
I just do videos, we don't really assemble engines for customers.
There is a taller filter you can just put on, I forget the part number but it is out there.
Thanks for watching!
Where can I get the oil pick up tube bolts at ?
??
The oil pickup tube bolts are not 8mm they are 6mm x 1.00 thread pitch. When talking bolts they are not measured by the size of the head of the bolt!!!
Bolts are commonly referred to by which sized socket drives the head of the bolt. No one cares what the thread and pitch are. People are very much interested in how to put it together rather than agonizing over the technical size of the thread. Thanks for watching!
Is it worth it to build a LM7 or if you had to do it all over again, would you had found a Gen IV aluminum block? I have a LM7 sitting in my garage and am leaning towards finding me an aluminum block
Great question! Considering the expense of the the aluminum block and we aren't going racing or anything. There really isn't a huge upside to one. I would definitely build a LM7 again. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros Great thought process. I’m not looking to race either. I’m going to see what I can do with what I already have. Great vids man! 🤟🏽
How were you able to get the galley diverter out of the block with out breaking it into pieces?
The machine shop did it. I assume they had to break it into pieces. Thanks for watching!
Take the galley plug out the front and use a rod to push it out .
Where can I find the oil pickup tube bolts 8 mm?
The little one in this kit is what you are looking for www.summitracing.com/parts/icb-551725 Thanks for watching!
They are 8.8 grade 6mm x 1.00 thread with 8mm head
If I was copying this build to ls swap a 350z, could I use that same oil pan and windagw tray?
Would I also need to use another pickup?
Is the next video out already? I can’t find it
Coming this Saturday! Thanks for watching!
106 inch pounds is 8.8 ft lbs. 8 would be sufficient. Or round off to 9.
Right, but the internet is never satisfied with rounding. It has to be dead nuts on! Thanks for watching!
how much do all the parts cost please
How did you get that old diverter out?
I didn't the machine shop did. If I had to do it, I'd just drill a small hole in it and pry it out with a screw driver. BUT you need to clean it super thoroughly after that so you don't have metal chips in it. Thanks for watching!
Pop out the front oil galley plug then use a rod to push it out
Do you have a list of everything you ordered for this engine? And can I get it all from summit racing in one order? If so please send me the link. I want to build this exact engine watching your videos. I am a contractor and don't know a lot about this. But you describe what you are doing pretty dam good. And i can follow directions lol.
I don't have a complete list as of right this second. Summit is going to put a part list together on their site though and yes you could order it all in one go. You can go through every video and click on all the links in every video though in the meantime. If you can follow directions you can totally build this 5.3L the exact way I have. Thanks for watching Bruce!
Curious how much all of these parts would cost in today's prices. Summit sells a pre machined option for the 5.3 for $3699. I[m looking for a this motor right now and can't find anything for less than about $900. A few hundred extra for some additional parts, but man, having a machine shop make these updates, plus cost of a used motor, and all these summit parts, I'm thinking this has to be close to $3700. Anyone happen to know about how much all of this would cost today?
When I built it, with all the machine work and parts it was like 7000 not that long ago. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros oh wow!!! I believe it. BTW FANTASTIC series man, seriously, has taught me a ton.
I thought it was chrome not black lol… trippy
You seem to know alot about building engines, but sorry, I have to ask if you were really comfortable with having to modify the pickup tube assembly to make it fit. And also, you really just blew off the different colored o-ring instructions to install the one that came on the assembly. They already sent you an oil pick up tube assembly that didn't fit, why would you just accept the o-ring they provided? Seems like that's a whole lot of money riding on which color o-ring is correct.
It would not have worked without slight modification or we would have had very low oil pressure. I picked the best fitting O-ring after a few test fits. Not to mention if it had lower oil pressure it is the first thing I would have checked. It wouldn't have had any problems we would have intervened before that. But it didn't this thing passed with flying colors on the Dyno make sure to check out just how much power we ended up making. Thanks for watching!
106 inch pounds on pick up tube.
It’s $387 for that oil pan.
It's sold on ebay and Speedway motors for $316 ish.... it's just a cheap rebranded Chinese pan... although...I do think it's a pretty slick option. I'm just not sure on how great the fitment is in terms of pickup to pan clearance. He didn't even check it. It's a vital measurement!
You can get rebranded Holley pans for 200 bucks
Good job, but you talk like we're foolish. Come on its common sense.
I'm just trying to make it accessible to everyone. Thanks for watching!
Then why are you watching the video . . .
Lol but this man just watched the whole video. Great video It was verify informative to people starting out like me!