Very informative video, thanks a lot 👍. I have the feeling that Parkside improves their tools until more or less the third or forth revision and then they start to make them worse ;). In any case, I will for sure stay with my C3 converted version (thanks to your channel by the way 👍). I have many impact drivers and wrenches including Dewalt or Milwaukee and C3 is a really good tool in terms of quality/money spent. With the D3, they did it like as bad as they could ;), an uncomfortable bit holder and a weaker impact mechanism. Well done Owim :D
I don't even need an impact driver, but watched it anyway - your reviews are addictive :D On the question which to get - here in Latvia we often get older revisions, so might be awhile til we get the D3 at all :|
I got it for 28 EUR. For this price it is simply the best in the world. Just find better. It is impossible. I am very happy😂 .Today in our kaufland I managed to get another psspa li d3 and pwsap li f6. Paid 110 eur for everything.😮 I am happy like a little child😊 They were being taken apart so quickly that I had to grab my suitcases very quickly. Sorry for my English, I'm not English)
I think it's a good idea that they thinned out the tension spring because that way the anvil jumps more easily. This is precisely the purpose of the anvil to easy jump over. I saw the Ercan video and i saw the C3 have a spring very thick , my dewalt dcf 860 and dcf 850 has spring of the same thickness of D3 . In my opinion a large spring does nothing but slow down the rotor anvil under load . Even my dcf900 doesn't have the spring so thick like C3 model
Well with this thinner spring it is indeed in line with the impact drivers from DeWalt etc. But it can at times miss impact so that sounds strange if you are not used to it. But in the end I think it can improve the life expectancy of the impact mechanism.
I'm waiting for Parkside to release a 1/2" drive 350-400Nm impact wrench so that I wouldn't need to modify a 226Nm D3 and then hope for the best. I honestly don't understand why the 12V version of a 400-ish Nm brushless wrench us is available right now, but there is no 20V version of it.
I know! I deleted that part from the video, because I went on for about 3 minutes wondering why there is still no sign of a 20V brushless mid torque type of impact wrench. I actually think that would be one of their best selling tools if they ever did it!
@@BrokeLifeEU The only reason I can think of is that it would kill the sales of green "400"Nm wrench and maybe even the big boy performance wrench. Because, well, a 400Nm wrench that's actually 400Nm, would be enough for most people. And it would be light enough to replace their performance impact drivers too, although it would take an adapter for hex bits. And maybe they still have some sort of long running manufacturing contracts with a big number of (green) units ordered, which is what makes the tools so cheap. So they can't afford to stop selling them by releasing a competitor.
@@BrokeLifeEU from tomorrow in my lild there is a sale offering Parkside performance impact 1/2 and they claim 1356nm in highest mode... 99€ i find that very hard to believe.
@@BrokeLifeEU They could simply change the battery holder from the 12V version into 20V version. Milwaukee did that with their stubby which was "an inspiration" for Parkside to do their own one ;), but for some reason they stopped with the 12V version. Anyways, looking at what Parkside releases sometimes I have the impression that it looks more or less like that. I big boss from Germany calls some of the manufactures in China and goes: Hi good people from China, we need a new mid-torque for 20V, the market demands it. The Chinese say, sure thing, consider it done, and after a half a year of hard work they deliver a 12V drill driver with RGB leds :D. We do not have the impact, but check this out, we have put a display into a drill driver :D. Wanna buy? :D
I ordered it, got it, put one screw in a plywood board and the whole thing started smoking - fried. Still in the process of sending it back but got the 12v A1 instead and let me tell you, it is a lot more reliable... almost like the 12v tools are made better/ QC'ed more. Or maybe im just unlucky with 20v parkside performance impact drivers and always get the bad ones lol.
Theres this french guy on youtube who repairs parkside, I asked him about the 12v and he said they breake about the same. Some people swear the 12v is more reliable, Im confused😅
I don't know why some people are disappointed? for that price, how much does it cost, what do you expect? you need a tool that you will use every day for 8 hours, buy a Milwaukee and don't cry
@andrejstrinavic2852 I dont expect it to last 8hours a day... but the thing breaking after one tiny 3x45mm screw is hella disappointing and not worth 40bucks.
You can but you will break adaptors in the process. And it is not a smooth operation. If you just put the bolt there it will unscew it, however if there is rust/mud/residue of some sort on the bolt you are trying to unscrew, it will take its sweet time to get the job done. And the 250Nm mark on a fresh nut is a 50-50 shot in my case.
Nice review. Best I found yet. Thanks 👍 Quick question though, is it only me, or does the speed default always on 4? Is there a way to change it permanently? Annoying for it to change mid project 😩
Thank you for your nice comment! On the mode 4 question, yes that is with all of them, including the older C3 model. No matter what you do, always ends up in mode 4.
Yes, if you are asking about the 1/2” conversion it will be the same. Just make sure the base if the new anvil is 5mm, it can’t take a thicker base of the anvil.
Sorry about that, yes the conversion is basically identical to how it is done on the C3 and B3. That said make sure the base of the new anvil is exactly 5mm. It might need some grinding to get down to that size.
Had the B2 and it burned out after little use, the electronics are bad on that one. Got the D3 today for 30€ from Kaufland, it feels a lot better, i hope it doesnt die in a week.
Good video..But I have two questions. 1. What is the difference between an impact driver and an impact wrench? & 2. Can the D3 be converted to a 1/2” drive?
Did you have any chance to check if the motor is the same? Sometimes brands will use lighter springs when they put in a motor with less torque or when they start having reliability issues and have to limit the performance of the motor
Hey! If you think it would be feasable, would you do a video on maybe bulletproofing the Gisam impact driver? Maybe upgrading the grease so it would last longer, checking the electronics for prone failure points, and upgrading the battery? Maybe then a comparison between one with a makita battery , better lube etc and a stock one. I have a gisam (“1800”Nm) and for the money i could not be happier. Thanks for your initial review of it. I own a small (Very small) automotive service station. I have a parkside pneumatic impact, but not happy with it. At all. (Also my compressor is small..24L) Gisam is much better, and I rely on it. I was thinking about opening it up and making sure it is ok for the future. Might buy a 2nd one. Its just an unbeatable price. I mostly use it for rusty tie rods, shock absorber bolts, bushings, etc. it is just awesome for those, since they are not torqued that hard but usually very rusty. Also, a video about cheap compressors (maybe building one using a refrigerator compressor) would be a good watch for me! Thanks for all the reviews. They all surely help in making my tool decisions.
hello I bought an impact driver but the bigger one with 1900Nm the PASSP C4 and after i updated the software to a new one it stopped working but before it was fine so now i do not use the app because i am mad and i have a question . Is it posible somehow to reeset the parkside tools or there is no way of doing it .
no reset possible. you can try to remove app and download it again. try to connect and then do fw update again. When not possible, contact the seller and get a new one.
Yes, although with an adapter there will be less power going to the socket. I have also made a follow up video on this in which I change the anvil from a 1/4“ to a 1/2“ which is ideal for work on cars. In that video I try it on a couple of nuts, the tightest of which is set to 300Nm and it managed to break it loose.
I just got the D3 model and I feel like the chuck is straighter then the one on the B3 which wobbles. Did you notice the same? I would opt for precision and lifespan over slightly more power especially on this kind of tool. OWIM is the best of the 3 Lidl's suppliers, Kompernass coming in second wit Grizzly Tools coming last to the point I no longer buy anything made by them because they are trash.
It is the same in my side when it comes to the collets in the D3 and C3. On the other hand the thinner spring as I said in the video I feel will be good for how long the tool survives. Yes the thicker spring on the older models made them a very good candidatw for a 1/2” conversion which I am not sure is the same for this. However I think that as an impact driver it is a good option! On top of that is the low price and 5 year warranty and then it becomes an excellent option!
I am very and I can't stress the very part enough, disappointed with the D3. Used very lightly one of my newly acquired D3 and it is skipping too, but is for certain weaker than both of my C3, where one is a bit heavierly heatting than the second and both of those are for sure weaker than my old B3. Unfortunately both B3 are dead - gravity is a bitch and as far as I can remember, cause I have repaired them a lot, one of my C3 experienced a fracture right next to the planetary reductor so I did exactly what you proposed- switched the mechanics from a B3 in C3. BUT the dimensions where a bit off, just above the trigger, so I ended up with switching the hammer/planetary from the B3 in the C3. I do not know if it is the weaker or the stronger one, I could take them apart and check. Why I am watching this video - because the D3 did not mannage to drive a 6x200 in two overlade black pine 120x120 beams, it got stuck at 110-120mm making horrific noise. The B3 and C3 have never did this, the C3 have had several hiccups but with 8x230 not 6x200. That is me complaining and contemplating my options, now to come to the point, please stop compare testing screws longitudinally, there is a randomness in wood density through the life cycle of the tree apart from weakness and tearing dew to drying - checking, and a slight angle of the screw could inflict great difference, and this is naturally dried wood. Since I have the feeling that me and you live 8n the same country and by the screws and gloves from one of your other videos I think we shop at the same place, why don't I prepare some standardised blocks of kiln dried white pine or Douglas fir for you to test in?
I´m less fussed about the spring. I mean, if I really need to drive big fastners you´d use a drill driver anyway instead of an impact, as it´s much stronger. Also the anvil mechanism housing of the D3 seems plastic? and the C3 seems metal? I´m more let down by the impractical collet! As far as I´m aware it wasnt a big point of failure, so why change it?
It can do heavy duty stuff but not all day long. Like you saw in the video it can clearly drive long screws and unbolt lug nuts but if do it all day everyday you will eventually cook the tool.
You have Parkside and Parkside performance. The performance like is pretty reliable, close to ryobi. I build my house with it and a huge workspace/garage (which we used as a house in the first two years). Nothing broke. Parkside without performance isn't for me though, those break pretty fast. There is a big difference between the two.
Even the parkside performance also the same? So which brands in Europe that were considered cheap but still performed in field trades, construction, automotive, HVAC etc... I'm from Southeast Asia, Bosch & Makita is the go-to(expensive as fuck), but for cheap but still performing to industrial standards is the Chinese brand Dong Cheng, usually equipped by small time contractors for their crews/workers. Like Makita & Bosch, spares are cheap & easily sourced from online platforms...
Yeah, as long as it is within your budget, go for it, buy whatever brands that suits your needs💪👍, For me, I kinda regret buying the Big Red "M" especially the M12, one, I got 2 3.0ah battery took a crap within 7 months of purchase, one of the replacement batteries went out 3 months after the end of warranty (we only have 2 years warranty in Southeast Asia), a dead M12 die grinder....
@kiky2h Not anymore, unfortunately, they have removed the listing 🥲 I am looking for the same type if anvil still so if I find an option I will make sure to share it!
Pretty much, I feel like the D3 can survive its warranty period as it is. The thinner spring puts less stress on the internals and if they left them as they were I think that and DIY use means it can survive its warranty period, but still early days to say for sure.
If you are based in Greece I think they should be available in Lidl Greece very soon 😉 and because of Parkside quality it is best to have a tool with a warranty for sure!
Parkside is only good for first look , then after you buy them you have to find out all issues they have abd fix them in your own then you have good tool, so buying parkside you getting only tool base to to fix or modify,not fully functioning tool
I got the Parkside performance impact big boy version for 1/4 price of a Milwaukee and the same power. It took off lugs that were seized on a trailer that would hardly turn with a bar.
I still have the first A1 model and works absolutely flawless
From small screws to car wheels
Yeah but it is bigger which can be a disadvantage for car mechanics.
This table is a pure legend. Deserves one dedicated video.
Thank you for another fantastic video and sharing all your knowledge!!! You are the KING of Parkside reviews!!!! 👑👑👑
Thank you so much 👑
Very informative video, thanks a lot 👍. I have the feeling that Parkside improves their tools until more or less the third or forth revision and then they start to make them worse ;). In any case, I will for sure stay with my C3 converted version (thanks to your channel by the way 👍). I have many impact drivers and wrenches including Dewalt or Milwaukee and C3 is a really good tool in terms of quality/money spent. With the D3, they did it like as bad as they could ;), an uncomfortable bit holder and a weaker impact mechanism. Well done Owim :D
I don't even need an impact driver, but watched it anyway - your reviews are addictive :D
On the question which to get - here in Latvia we often get older revisions, so might be awhile til we get the D3 at all :|
I buy today d3 in Riga
@ Yeah, I missed it by a few days😅
I got it for 28 EUR. For this price it is simply the best in the world. Just find better. It is impossible.
I am very happy😂 .Today in our kaufland I managed to get another
psspa li d3 and pwsap li f6.
Paid 110 eur for everything.😮
I am happy like a little child😊
They were being taken apart so quickly that I had to grab my suitcases very quickly.
Sorry for my English, I'm not English)
@@MrAndergut Seriously? New?
@@zaxmaxlax
Yes😊New.
I have the c3 and didn't even strained it yet but quite happy with the performance and it being small. For hard work, I have the big one of Parkside
I think it's a good idea that they thinned out the tension spring because that way the anvil jumps more easily.
This is precisely the purpose of the anvil to easy jump over.
I saw the Ercan video and i saw the C3 have a spring very thick , my dewalt dcf 860 and dcf 850 has spring of the same thickness of D3 .
In my opinion a large spring does nothing but slow down the rotor anvil under load .
Even my dcf900 doesn't have the spring so thick like C3 model
Well with this thinner spring it is indeed in line with the impact drivers from DeWalt etc. But it can at times miss impact so that sounds strange if you are not used to it. But in the end I think it can improve the life expectancy of the impact mechanism.
I'm waiting for Parkside to release a 1/2" drive 350-400Nm impact wrench so that I wouldn't need to modify a 226Nm D3 and then hope for the best.
I honestly don't understand why the 12V version of a 400-ish Nm brushless wrench us is available right now, but there is no 20V version of it.
I know! I deleted that part from the video, because I went on for about 3 minutes wondering why there is still no sign of a 20V brushless mid torque type of impact wrench. I actually think that would be one of their best selling tools if they ever did it!
@@BrokeLifeEU The only reason I can think of is that it would kill the sales of green "400"Nm wrench and maybe even the big boy performance wrench.
Because, well, a 400Nm wrench that's actually 400Nm, would be enough for most people.
And it would be light enough to replace their performance impact drivers too, although it would take an adapter for hex bits.
And maybe they still have some sort of long running manufacturing contracts with a big number of (green) units ordered, which is what makes the tools so cheap. So they can't afford to stop selling them by releasing a competitor.
@@BrokeLifeEU from tomorrow in my lild there is a sale offering Parkside performance impact 1/2 and they claim 1356nm in highest mode... 99€ i find that very hard to believe.
@@BrokeLifeEU They could simply change the battery holder from the 12V version into 20V version. Milwaukee did that with their stubby which was "an inspiration" for Parkside to do their own one ;), but for some reason they stopped with the 12V version. Anyways, looking at what Parkside releases sometimes I have the impression that it looks more or less like that. I big boss from Germany calls some of the manufactures in China and goes: Hi good people from China, we need a new mid-torque for 20V, the market demands it. The Chinese say, sure thing, consider it done, and after a half a year of hard work they deliver a 12V drill driver with RGB leds :D. We do not have the impact, but check this out, we have put a display into a drill driver :D. Wanna buy? :D
Where can I buy this from ok please
Can I use the same parts to convert a D3 as C3 to an impact wrench?
Yes you can, just make sure you grind the base of the anvil down to 5mm.
Yes, it`s even easier on the D3
Maybe I'm tired, what is the pros and cons in that case?
I ordered it, got it, put one screw in a plywood board and the whole thing started smoking - fried. Still in the process of sending it back but got the 12v A1 instead and let me tell you, it is a lot more reliable... almost like the 12v tools are made better/ QC'ed more. Or maybe im just unlucky with 20v parkside performance impact drivers and always get the bad ones lol.
Theres this french guy on youtube who repairs parkside, I asked him about the 12v and he said they breake about the same. Some people swear the 12v is more reliable, Im confused😅
@@zaxmaxlax What is the name of this "french guy on youtube" please?
@@olavl8827 Oliv&Side
@@olavl8827Oliv&Side is the channels name
@@olavl8827 My comments are getting excluded, but try searching parkside olivandside
I don't know why some people are disappointed? for that price, how much does it cost, what do you expect?
you need a tool that you will use every day for 8 hours, buy a Milwaukee and don't cry
@andrejstrinavic2852 I dont expect it to last 8hours a day... but the thing breaking after one tiny 3x45mm screw is hella disappointing and not worth 40bucks.
Dude go to waranty then, and replase or get back the money@@dexterx55
Is it strong enough for screws on car rims, without converting to 1/2"?
It can unscrew 200Nm, however if the bolt has been through a snowy winter I’d say it’s a 50-50 shot.
Can you unscrew car wheels above 200nN using d3.. I am planning to buy this and change the impact as your B3.
You can but you will break adaptors in the process. And it is not a smooth operation. If you just put the bolt there it will unscew it, however if there is rust/mud/residue of some sort on the bolt you are trying to unscrew, it will take its sweet time to get the job done. And the 250Nm mark on a fresh nut is a 50-50 shot in my case.
Nice review. Best I found yet. Thanks 👍
Quick question though, is it only me, or does the speed default always on 4? Is there a way to change it permanently? Annoying for it to change mid project 😩
Thank you for your nice comment! On the mode 4 question, yes that is with all of them, including the older C3 model. No matter what you do, always ends up in mode 4.
You can adjust it by Bluetooth...1-2-3-4 mode...
@@NinaStojnevUnfortunately it will not stay in the selected mode, always reverts back to mode 4
@@BrokeLifeEU my stays...i will upload video later..
Yeah, it stays for a while. But eventually goes back 🤦🏻♂️
What’s the rpms in 1 2 3 4 modes? Can you make a video about the rpms of the D3 version? Thank you 🙏
Hi, I will try to, unfortunately my RPM tester is no longer functioning but I'll try to figure it out and will update if I can.
By mistake i bought this model to remove screws from the rims,now how can i convert it to adapt the socket outlet ?
You can fit a new 1/2“ anvil to it. I did make a separate video about that and I have linked it in the video description. I hope it helps!
is the anvil and the bushing the same size for d3 compared to the older models?
Yes, if you are asking about the 1/2” conversion it will be the same. Just make sure the base if the new anvil is 5mm, it can’t take a thicker base of the anvil.
@@BrokeLifeEU Thank you sir!
hey you forgot to say important thing.. can we use same parts to convert to 1/2? 16-22-10 ring and 8mm shaft?
Sorry about that, yes the conversion is basically identical to how it is done on the C3 and B3. That said make sure the base of the new anvil is exactly 5mm. It might need some grinding to get down to that size.
Does the d3 model have an expert mode like the c3 had?
Yes, it has the Expert mode 😉
What is expert mode?
@JohnPirou you connect the tool to the app and set it to expert mode. That gives the tool a little extra performance for a short period.
Thanks, liked the video.
The thiner.spring is a good improvment, you find this in more expensive tools to. Bigger isnt always better ;)
Had the B2 and it burned out after little use, the electronics are bad on that one. Got the D3 today for 30€ from Kaufland, it feels a lot better, i hope it doesnt die in a week.
I think it won’t. They have lowered the power output with the thinner spring, but I think also possibly increased the lifespan of the tool.
Good video..But I have two questions. 1. What is the difference between an impact driver and an impact wrench? & 2. Can the D3 be converted to a 1/2” drive?
I spoke to Parkside and they said mid alphabet is where you really are going to see the improvements 😅
We've waited for this! :-)
This premiere is going to beat the Romanian elections! 😂
@@memutu 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Същия ли е като B3 откъм смяната на наковалнята
Skipping mechanism sound bad.. 03:28....
Yes, not the best sound and even worrying if you are not used to it.
Did you have any chance to check if the motor is the same? Sometimes brands will use lighter springs when they put in a motor with less torque or when they start having reliability issues and have to limit the performance of the motor
Hey!
If you think it would be feasable, would you do a video on maybe bulletproofing the Gisam impact driver? Maybe upgrading the grease so it would last longer, checking the electronics for prone failure points, and upgrading the battery?
Maybe then a comparison between one with a makita battery , better lube etc and a stock one.
I have a gisam (“1800”Nm) and for the money i could not be happier. Thanks for your initial review of it. I own a small (Very small) automotive service station. I have a parkside pneumatic impact, but not happy with it. At all. (Also my compressor is small..24L)
Gisam is much better, and I rely on it. I was thinking about opening it up and making sure it is ok for the future. Might buy a 2nd one. Its just an unbeatable price. I mostly use it for rusty tie rods, shock absorber bolts, bushings, etc. it is just awesome for those, since they are not torqued that hard but usually very rusty.
Also, a video about cheap compressors (maybe building one using a refrigerator compressor) would be a good watch for me!
Thanks for all the reviews. They all surely help in making my tool decisions.
I have a feeling you might actually replace that spring 😅.
hello I bought an impact driver but the bigger one with 1900Nm the PASSP C4 and after i updated the software to a new one it stopped working but before it was fine so now i do not use the app because i am mad and i have a question . Is it posible somehow to reeset the parkside tools or there is no way of doing it .
no reset possible.
you can try to remove app and download it again. try to connect and then do fw update again. When not possible, contact the seller and get a new one.
@@koelling i am already getting a new one but i still got the old i can try :D thanks
Nice! Is the thermal overload working as it should?
Strong enough for car wheels?
Yes, although with an adapter there will be less power going to the socket. I have also made a follow up video on this in which I change the anvil from a 1/4“ to a 1/2“ which is ideal for work on cars. In that video I try it on a couple of nuts, the tightest of which is set to 300Nm and it managed to break it loose.
I just got the D3 model and I feel like the chuck is straighter then the one on the B3 which wobbles. Did you notice the same? I would opt for precision and lifespan over slightly more power especially on this kind of tool. OWIM is the best of the 3 Lidl's suppliers, Kompernass coming in second wit Grizzly Tools coming last to the point I no longer buy anything made by them because they are trash.
It is the same in my side when it comes to the collets in the D3 and C3. On the other hand the thinner spring as I said in the video I feel will be good for how long the tool survives. Yes the thicker spring on the older models made them a very good candidatw for a 1/2” conversion which I am not sure is the same for this. However I think that as an impact driver it is a good option! On top of that is the low price and 5 year warranty and then it becomes an excellent option!
And yes I also try my hardest to avoid Grizzly made tools. 🫣
Can you review the big 1/2" 20v performance impact wrench?
I am very and I can't stress the very part enough, disappointed with the D3.
Used very lightly one of my newly acquired D3 and it is skipping too, but is for certain weaker than both of my C3, where one is a bit heavierly heatting than the second and both of those are for sure weaker than my old B3. Unfortunately both B3 are dead - gravity is a bitch and as far as I can remember, cause I have repaired them a lot, one of my C3 experienced a fracture right next to the planetary reductor so I did exactly what you proposed- switched the mechanics from a B3 in C3. BUT the dimensions where a bit off, just above the trigger, so I ended up with switching the hammer/planetary from the B3 in the C3. I do not know if it is the weaker or the stronger one, I could take them apart and check. Why I am watching this video - because the D3 did not mannage to drive a 6x200 in two overlade black pine 120x120 beams, it got stuck at 110-120mm making horrific noise. The B3 and C3 have never did this, the C3 have had several hiccups but with 8x230 not 6x200. That is me complaining and contemplating my options, now to come to the point, please stop compare testing screws longitudinally, there is a randomness in wood density through the life cycle of the tree apart from weakness and tearing dew to drying - checking, and a slight angle of the screw could inflict great difference, and this is naturally dried wood. Since I have the feeling that me and you live 8n the same country and by the screws and gloves from one of your other videos I think we shop at the same place, why don't I prepare some standardised blocks of kiln dried white pine or Douglas fir for you to test in?
Can you test the new passp c4?
Надо будет приобрести какой нибудь impact driver от Parkside 🤔 Очень заинтриговали 💯
Reportedly OWIM means just Ost-West IMport 😅
😂😂😂 I feel stupid that I did not realise that sooner 😂😂😂
Are you from Germany or the Netherlands?
No, sorry 😞
Is the B3 still available somewhere, or on the lidl website?
Are you able to use Google ?
d3 is 40euros and it is cheaper than b3 if I am not mistaken
Yes. Its on sale in croatia for 40 euros
@ uzeo sam u nemackoj isto za tu cenu, pa nek mi je Bog u pomoci. Ako nista vraticu nazad
@@250398todorovicvaljda ce te sluzit. S parksideom se nikad ne zna😂. Ako nista bar ima garanciju 5 godina.
50eur in france and portugal
30euro in Romania next monday. I have B3 too, D3 will be just a backup.
I´m less fussed about the spring. I mean, if I really need to drive big fastners you´d use a drill driver anyway instead of an impact, as it´s much stronger. Also the anvil mechanism housing of the D3 seems plastic? and the C3 seems metal?
I´m more let down by the impractical collet! As far as I´m aware it wasnt a big point of failure, so why change it?
Whens the gisam 1/2 2800nm video
So this parkside brand is just suitable for weekend diy'er not heavy duty stuffs.... not very familiar with this brand as I'm not from Europe...
It can do heavy duty stuff but not all day long. Like you saw in the video it can clearly drive long screws and unbolt lug nuts but if do it all day everyday you will eventually cook the tool.
You have Parkside and Parkside performance. The performance like is pretty reliable, close to ryobi. I build my house with it and a huge workspace/garage (which we used as a house in the first two years). Nothing broke.
Parkside without performance isn't for me though, those break pretty fast. There is a big difference between the two.
Even the parkside performance also the same? So which brands in Europe that were considered cheap but still performed in field trades, construction, automotive, HVAC etc... I'm from Southeast Asia, Bosch & Makita is the go-to(expensive as fuck), but for cheap but still performing to industrial standards is the Chinese brand Dong Cheng, usually equipped by small time contractors for their crews/workers. Like Makita & Bosch, spares are cheap & easily sourced from online platforms...
Yeah, as long as it is within your budget, go for it, buy whatever brands that suits your needs💪👍, For me, I kinda regret buying the Big Red "M" especially the M12, one, I got 2 3.0ah battery took a crap within 7 months of purchase, one of the replacement batteries went out 3 months after the end of warranty (we only have 2 years warranty in Southeast Asia), a dead M12 die grinder....
@@AlexY2-b6yMilwaukee is bad, its just a red ryobi
I don't like impact drivers. It's loud and the impacts destroy sockets and bits. I prefer drill with very low rpm or ratchet.
Not a fan of loud noises myself. I do want to try out a hydraulic impact though. That might be the best of both worlds.
😭 this spring...
It lets it down indeed!
I just bought it, return?
@@kiky2h I mean it is not bad, it is just not as good as it could have been.
Your B3 has a shorter anvil, do you have link?
@kiky2h Not anymore, unfortunately, they have removed the listing 🥲 I am looking for the same type if anvil still so if I find an option I will make sure to share it!
So B3 > C3 > D3 ?🤦
In terms of power yes, however the D3 might actuallu survive a lot longer than the C3 because if the thinner spring.
it has expert mode too?
Yes, yes it does.
so disappoiting, in my country they sell them only twice a year, so having to wait 6 month for a 4th version worse than the first one is disgusting
And I do get the feeling the next version will be even cheaper and even worse…
Once they realiseD they made a good cheap tool, they are trying their best to optimise it to a point that it can survive the warranty period.
Pretty much, I feel like the D3 can survive its warranty period as it is. The thinner spring puts less stress on the internals and if they left them as they were I think that and DIY use means it can survive its warranty period, but still early days to say for sure.
Go for Makita instead.
If someone can send me a c3 or b3 and I will pay the expenses of course
If you are based in Greece I think they should be available in Lidl Greece very soon 😉 and because of Parkside quality it is best to have a tool with a warranty for sure!
Parkside is only good for first look , then after you buy them you have to find out all issues they have abd fix them in your own then you have good tool, so buying parkside you getting only tool base to to fix or modify,not fully functioning tool
5 years warranty..
I'm picking up useful tools for around 35 quid with a 4 Amp hr battery included. It's a win for me
I got the Parkside performance impact big boy version for 1/4 price of a Milwaukee and the same power. It took off lugs that were seized on a trailer that would hardly turn with a bar.
Pretty stupid statement
You can buy this tool for boys if you can not afford man tools
Still better than no tool at all.
Total piece of crap
I hope that is not about me 🥺
I got it with the 8Ah Smart Battery.
If you want power get the 12Ah Smart Battery.
I find the 8Ah too heavy for this so I am scared to even imagine it with the 12Ah 😅