Man, that little sound effect sure transported me back in time. Loved it so much I had to run outside (in slo mo) and jump over the house just to hear it again!
I like the different types of tape you use in your videos🤣great video the Bionic man moment sent me back in time for a second. I hope my blades last longer than one season have a great weekend Ed and keep it on the sunny side ☀️☀️☀️😁👍
An easier way is to just loosen the bolts push the bed plate all the way in until it contacts the blades. Mark the bed plate on the outside of the machine. Then pull it out to the proper gap and measure from your mark. Hope that helps. I had the same frustration before I did this.
Hi Ed! So now I know what happened to Steve Austin. He retired and bought a tractor. And a wood chipper! LOL! Funny! I’ll probably need to flip my chipper blades soon too. Thanks for sharing! Oh, and say hello to Allen for me!
I truly believe Ed, you have little Minions breaking into your toolboxes in the wee hours of the night and hiding tools from you. I bet their the same one's getting into my tools too. As I too have several packs of allen wrenches and screwdrivers missing from my collection. I bet your chipper will work like new now.
The WC68 has a built in locking "bolt" to lock the rotor flywheel. Located RH side of bearing looking to the rearward direction. Shiny silver with a snap ring on it. Remember to remove it after using it to lock rotor.
Looking as close as I could I do not see the locking bolt on your chipper. A change at factory?? I bought my WC68 after watching your video on the WC68 so they are close in manufacture dates.
Well done and on my wc68 , some differences I see are mine is a 2020 and I have a locking pin for the flywheel, the second difference is my blades only have 2 screws holding them to the flywheel , yours has 4 screws which seems excessive, the way I set my gap between the cutting blades and anvil is , I push the anvil all the way in until it touches the blade, and measure from the back side of the anvil to the back of the housing , then I just take a caliper and measure the total , mine is generally around ,350 thousands when the anvil is touching the cutters, I take off .100 thousands so then pull the anvil back to .250 and tighten it up , I can adjust the gap in about 2 minutes or less and it comes out perfect every time , I know they mention setting between 1/16 and 1/8 so I generally like .100 thousands and feel it cuts better at that setting far better then the 1/16 setting, if you want a pic of how I set mine in less then 2 minutes let me know a email address , I can send you a picture detailing my method if it would help,
@@MyClutteredGarage It's called a Flywheel Locking Pin. It is supposed to be mounted on the flywheel housing and it aligns with the Locking hole on the flywheel. Your's doesn't seem to have the pin although the hole is in the flywheel. I can send you a photo of mine if you want. It is also shown in my owners manual which is dated 22-Jan-2021. This may be a newer feature.
After watching your video of the WC68 woodchipper, my wife made me order one for her to use. Also, I watched M Plus J equals A doing stuff video on assembly of the chipper. Also, I got some aluminum flat stock 1/16 and 1/8 inch from the hardware store to set the gap between blades and the bed plate when I change the blades. We have a B2650 cab Kubota great in the winter and great in the summer.
Just ran my WC68 for the first time today. Thought I'd take a minute to check the bed plate gap, then get chipping. Nope. Spent an hour trying to figure out if the bed plate gap was correct. Finally decided strictly by eye that it looked too small, so I made it a bit larger, using that opening on the *right* side of the plate near the screw knob as a guide to how much bigger I was making it. At first it seemed okay, but on larger logs I was getting chips that had a thickness of 0.23 inches. I'm assuming that the gap determines the thickness of the chips, so chips that are too thick means the gap is too wide. So now I'm planning to use a valve feeler gauge to measure that opening on the right side, then reduce (or is it increase, can't remember as I'm sitting here) the opening it by about 0.1 inches to narrow the gap down to about .12 inches or just under 1/8 of an inch. I think Woodland Mills should preset this gap at the factory, then provide information on what size chips you should be getting. That way, if they're looking too big or too small, you know the gap needs re-adjusting.
WM has great customer service in my experience. I'd reach out to them. In my view, I think the blades need to be as close as possible to the plate, without touching it. I think the gapping process on this unit is one downside. I did think they are generally pre-gapped at the factory. Thanks for watching. -Ed
It was a little hard to see but it looks like part of the anvil plate is exposed. If it is bottom the anvil on the blade mark it with a scribe or fine sharpie then expose the line .100 thousands
The WC68 manual says to check the gap between anvil and blade for all four blades. Did you go through the trouble to do so, or did you call it good after doing one? Super happy I saw your video, taping those brackets to the blade is a brilliant idea. I've been scratching my head to do this. Even with a flashlight you can just barely see down in there. I wonder how woodland mills technicians do this. I bet it is their least favorite part of putting the chipper together :-)
Perhaps a better way of adjusting the blade gap would be to have the bed plate just touch the blade. Then score or mark the bed plate and move it back out 1/16" to 1/8" then check to make sure the closest blade is within that range.
Hey Ed, roughly how many hours of use did you get out of the first set of blades, i know with a chipper its really hard to determine, i think im going to give mine a change just to be proactive and know i have a fresh edge on them.
You're right, that's hard to determine. I wouldn't have changed the blades if they weren't nicked. They were still plenty sharp. Do you have the same chipper? Thanks for watching! -Ed
@@MyClutteredGarage I have the woodmaxx wm8-h, i originally wanted to go with the woodland mills but hated how long the lead times were on the units, i found the woodmaxx second hand on marketplace for a price i could not pass up, have been very happy with its performance.
Never tried my bionic strength to loosen a nut before. I have tried the official U.S. Navy sailor language of convince... more than once. Just ask the neighbors.
Great video. But I wish you would use less high tech techniques for setting those blades, surely there must be any easier way? Not everyone has unlimited access to packing tape. Lol Have fun chipping. Btw - is the chipper an US made machine?
Man, that little sound effect sure transported me back in time. Loved it so much I had to run outside (in slo mo) and jump over the house just to hear it again!
Haha, right?! 😄
6 million dollar clutter man. Awesome video 🚜
Thanks much!
I like the different types of tape you use in your videos🤣great video the Bionic man moment sent me back in time for a second. I hope my blades last longer than one season have a great weekend Ed and keep it on the sunny side ☀️☀️☀️😁👍
Hmmm. I guess I do use various types of tape. Thanks for watching! 😄
An easier way is to just loosen the bolts push the bed plate all the way in until it contacts the blades. Mark the bed plate on the outside of the machine. Then pull it out to the proper gap and measure from your mark. Hope that helps. I had the same frustration before I did this.
Hi Ed! So now I know what happened to Steve Austin. He retired and bought a tractor. And a wood chipper! LOL! Funny! I’ll probably need to flip my chipper blades soon too. Thanks for sharing! Oh, and say hello to Allen for me!
Haha, thanks Martin!
I truly believe Ed, you have little Minions breaking into your toolboxes in the wee hours of the night and hiding tools from you. I bet their the same one's getting into my tools too. As I too have several packs of allen wrenches and screwdrivers missing from my collection. I bet your chipper will work like new now.
The WC68 has a built in locking "bolt" to lock the rotor flywheel. Located RH side of bearing looking to the rearward direction. Shiny silver with a snap ring on it. Remember to remove it after using it to lock rotor.
Looking as close as I could I do not see the locking bolt on your chipper. A change at factory?? I bought my WC68 after watching your video on the WC68 so they are close in manufacture dates.
Interesting. I'll look for that. Thanks!
Yup, my WC68 has one as well. My chipper is a 2019 vintage model.
Well done and on my wc68 , some differences I see are mine is a 2020 and I have a locking pin for the flywheel, the second difference is my blades only have 2 screws holding them to the flywheel , yours has 4 screws which seems excessive, the way I set my gap between the cutting blades and anvil is , I push the anvil all the way in until it touches the blade, and measure from the back side of the anvil to the back of the housing , then I just take a caliper and measure the total , mine is generally around ,350 thousands when the anvil is touching the cutters, I take off .100 thousands so then pull the anvil back to .250 and tighten it up , I can adjust the gap in about 2 minutes or less and it comes out perfect every time , I know they mention setting between 1/16 and 1/8 so I generally like .100 thousands and feel it cuts better at that setting far better then the 1/16 setting, if you want a pic of how I set mine in less then 2 minutes let me know a email address , I can send you a picture detailing my method if it would help,
@@MyClutteredGarage It's called a Flywheel Locking Pin. It is supposed to be mounted on the flywheel housing and it aligns with the Locking hole on the flywheel. Your's doesn't seem to have the pin although the hole is in the flywheel. I can send you a photo of mine if you want. It is also shown in my owners manual which is dated 22-Jan-2021. This may be a newer feature.
I really appreciate the fun you bring to your videos. :) Makes them interesting to watch, and very informative.
Thank you very much. Much appreciated.
Thanks for the laughs and the instruction, Ed! Great job!
Glad you enjoyed it Larry. Thanks for watching!
Great idea, Ed, using those pieces of bracket as a measurement guide. Thanks for posting! Cheers!
Thanks Mike. It was still challenging!
Those shims are a great idea! I used a bit of 3/32 tig wire to set my gap. I'll find some shims and tape for next time 🤘
Thanks. Still not as easy as I’d hoped!
Ya gotta chip it! Chip it good!
After watching your video of the WC68 woodchipper, my wife made me order one for her to use. Also, I watched
M Plus J equals A doing stuff video on assembly of the chipper. Also, I got some aluminum flat stock 1/16 and 1/8 inch
from the hardware store to set the gap between blades and the bed plate when I change the blades. We have a B2650 cab Kubota great in the winter and great in the summer.
Sounds like a great setup! And do listen to your wife. She sounds brilliant! 😄
Wow it handled that bigger log at the end like a champ
Nice video mr Ed! Have a good weekend sir!!
Thank you, Cayden. You too!
@@MyClutteredGarage thank you 🙂
Nice shots Ed! That chipper looks like a beast! Thanks for posting!
Thanks for watching!
I really need a wood chipper ! Not sure I can drop the coin on it right now. Thanks again for the great tip with the spaces and tape.
Everybody needs a wood chipper! I didn’t even realize how much I would love it. Thanks for watching, Vinny!
Just ran my WC68 for the first time today. Thought I'd take a minute to check the bed plate gap, then get chipping.
Nope. Spent an hour trying to figure out if the bed plate gap was correct. Finally decided strictly by eye that it looked too small, so I made it a bit larger, using that opening on the *right* side of the plate near the screw knob as a guide to how much bigger I was making it. At first it seemed okay, but on larger logs I was getting chips that had a thickness of 0.23 inches. I'm assuming that the gap determines the thickness of the chips, so chips that are too thick means the gap is too wide. So now I'm planning to use a valve feeler gauge to measure that opening on the right side, then reduce (or is it increase, can't remember as I'm sitting here) the opening it by about 0.1 inches to narrow the gap down to about .12 inches or just under 1/8 of an inch. I think Woodland Mills should preset this gap at the factory, then provide information on what size chips you should be getting. That way, if they're looking too big or too small, you know the gap needs re-adjusting.
WM has great customer service in my experience. I'd reach out to them. In my view, I think the blades need to be as close as possible to the plate, without touching it. I think the gapping process on this unit is one downside. I did think they are generally pre-gapped at the factory. Thanks for watching. -Ed
Nice video!
Thank you very much.
It was a little hard to see but it looks like part of the anvil plate is exposed. If it is bottom the anvil on the blade mark it with a scribe or fine sharpie then expose the line .100 thousands
It is hard to see, but I like your idea!
The WC68 manual says to check the gap between anvil and blade for all four blades. Did you go through the trouble to do so, or did you call it good after doing one? Super happy I saw your video, taping those brackets to the blade is a brilliant idea. I've been scratching my head to do this. Even with a flashlight you can just barely see down in there. I wonder how woodland mills technicians do this. I bet it is their least favorite part of putting the chipper together :-)
Thanks very much. I did indeed check all 4 blades. Even with the shims, it’s not easy!
Perhaps a better way of adjusting the blade gap would be to have the bed plate just touch the blade. Then score or mark the bed plate and move it back out 1/16" to 1/8" then check to make sure the closest blade is within that range.
I like that idea, Paul!
This worked great for me. Took a black marker to draw a line.
That Nick on the blade was probably caused by a piece of metal on the tree limbs maybe even a old bullet
@ 1:52 nick looks like orange paint in it ? from a chainsaw ?
Haha, so THAT'S what it was! :)
@@MyClutteredGarage I was thinking the same thing but B hall beat me to it.
Hey Ed, roughly how many hours of use did you get out of the first set of blades, i know with a chipper its really hard to determine, i think im going to give mine a change just to be proactive and know i have a fresh edge on them.
You're right, that's hard to determine. I wouldn't have changed the blades if they weren't nicked. They were still plenty sharp. Do you have the same chipper? Thanks for watching! -Ed
@@MyClutteredGarage I have the woodmaxx wm8-h, i originally wanted to go with the woodland mills but hated how long the lead times were on the units, i found the woodmaxx second hand on marketplace for a price i could not pass up, have been very happy with its performance.
@@HillsideAcres understood! I’d just inspect your blades. They may be just fine.
Is there a link below where I can get those bionic fingers? Lol.
Hey Rog. You sure can. They cost six million dollars :)
How about a longer feeler gauge that you can slip down to measure the gap?
I actually tried slipping a piece of sheet metal down there but it was too big. I think a narrower piece may work.
Never tried my bionic strength to loosen a nut before. I have tried the official U.S. Navy sailor language of convince... more than once. Just ask the neighbors.
Whatever it takes, Gary! 😄
Great video. But I wish you would use less high tech techniques for setting those blades, surely there must be any easier way? Not everyone has unlimited access to packing tape. Lol Have fun chipping.
Btw - is the chipper an US made machine?
Made in Ontario
Haha, much appreciated!
Hey Ed, can you re-dress the blades and get two more uses? Thanks, Jason
I think you can, but that’s beyond my tools and skills. Maybe woodland mills offers a sharpening service?