Thanx so much for your work. You are completely different to the usual glib crap. Sound advice and craftsmanship solidly explained; which is what we really need when considering making the similar move. refreshingly practical. and thank god no privileged kids high fiving each other and traipsing half naked as if that kind of vicariousness is what we are after. Again, thanx.
Using a large zip lock type bag like a pastry bag with the corner cut off allows easy and rapid application of thickened epoxy and then follow the line with a plastic spoon gives the perfect curve for getting glass mat to cover.
Awesome job. You should have titled it Orca Proof mods, I'm guessing you would have a few thousand more views but the comment section would be like the wild west.
That's some really tidy work there! It looks like a really well thought out approach the rebuild. Did you have any issues with the expanding foam pressing out on the shells? It looks like it went pretty well.
Hey, thanks. There were no issues with the expanding foam. We calculated to overfill by 10% as recommended by Sicomin. The stuff expands really slowly so there's very minimal internal pressure on the casing. Check Mads video @saillife, he does some good testing of the expansion rates. ua-cam.com/video/2RFzH_NB148/v-deo.htmlsi=DU-J13TJRcorgOzw
Another outstanding post. Hopefully we won't have to do that but you've given plenty if food for thought. Thank you. P.S. Phenomenal teamwork too are you both psychic ?
Just a tip, if you ever have to do a layup like this again if you wait till the epoxy is just rigid on the edge lip you can take a utility razor and easily cut off excess cloth. This prevents having to cut it cured which takes longer and risks cutting the original edge you were glassing to.
Lovely detailed explanation of what you did, thank you. The reason the frame was in such good condition was that it was originally encased in fibreglass. I didn't really understand why you chose not to redo it the same way. Is the foam impermeable?
Yes, the foam we used is epoxy and forms a hydrophobic closed cell structure. This (in theory) means that even if the rudder gets damaged there should never be any water ingress.
Hello, we have 1988 Centurion 47 in Greece and notice a ‘weep’ at the bottom of the rudder. No doubt in need to the same treatment as you have been through. Would you think it is possible to do without having to remove the rudder itself? Many thanks, we really enjoy your videos
Hi there, The volume of the rudder was: 11.25 packs of Rice Krisipies @ 4.09 litres per pack = 46.01 Litres The foam expands to x4 it's original volume (weight=volume), so: 46.01 litres ÷ 4 = 11.5 litres Sicomin recommend ordering + 10% of required volume: 11.5 litres + 10% = 12.65 litres It comes in 6.8kg packs, so I ordered 2 of these and mixed 11.8kg this was just enough to fill the rudder once expanded. Hope this helps.
The short answer is we used 2 tins, we do break the calculations down in the video. Bare in mind that temperature also has a contributing factor to the expansion rate.
Once the inner layers are bonded to the outer layer it is a monolithic structure and the load is applied to and shared by the whole structure. So your hypothesis is fundamentally flawed.
Thanx so much for your work. You are completely different to the usual glib crap. Sound advice and craftsmanship solidly explained; which is what we really need when considering making the similar move. refreshingly practical. and thank god no privileged kids high fiving each other and traipsing half naked as if that kind of vicariousness is what we are after. Again, thanx.
That is the best epoxy layup without vacuum bagging I have ever seen on UA-cam
Especially compared to the work being done on Uma.
Beautiful workmanship.
Thank you very much 😊
I like your use of the periodic table in your titles. Greetings from a formerly sailing biochemist.
Excellent videography!
now this is how you rebuild a rudder , finally someone doing it right
Miles, you’re both as good as Mads and Ava, really great videos and excellent workmanship. Well done to both of you.
Excellent work all round.👍
Simply wonderful work and the craftsmanship is stunning
Super awesome workmanship.
Great to be able to see the epoxy foam expanding inside and filling all the gaps, fantastic job guys !
That’s quite a job Miles 😮top quality work. This will be the how to forever. 5 ⭐️
Great video. Looking forward to your next project videos. 👍
Great work, I can smell that resin from here.
Thank you.
Thanks for explaining the process as you go and what you used, very interesting 😊
Using a large zip lock type bag like a pastry bag with the corner cut off allows easy and rapid application of thickened epoxy and then follow the line with a plastic spoon gives the perfect curve for getting glass mat to cover.
Awesome job. You should have titled it Orca Proof mods, I'm guessing you would have a few thousand more views but the comment section would be like the wild west.
Superb job ! Best regards from FRANCE.
That's some really tidy work there! It looks like a really well thought out approach the rebuild. Did you have any issues with the expanding foam pressing out on the shells? It looks like it went pretty well.
Hey, thanks.
There were no issues with the expanding foam. We calculated to overfill by 10% as recommended by Sicomin. The stuff expands really slowly so there's very minimal internal pressure on the casing.
Check Mads video @saillife, he does some good testing of the expansion rates.
ua-cam.com/video/2RFzH_NB148/v-deo.htmlsi=DU-J13TJRcorgOzw
Another outstanding post. Hopefully we won't have to do that but you've given plenty if food for thought. Thank you.
P.S.
Phenomenal teamwork too are you both psychic ?
Merci!
Big thanks, really appreciated
Orca proof 💁🏻♂️
I hope we never have to put that to the test 😬
Just a tip, if you ever have to do a layup like this again if you wait till the epoxy is just rigid on the edge lip you can take a utility razor and easily cut off excess cloth. This prevents having to cut it cured which takes longer and risks cutting the original edge you were glassing to.
Lovely detailed explanation of what you did, thank you. The reason the frame was in such good condition was that it was originally encased in fibreglass. I didn't really understand why you chose not to redo it the same way. Is the foam impermeable?
Yes, the foam we used is epoxy and forms a hydrophobic closed cell structure.
This (in theory) means that even if the rudder gets damaged there should never be any water ingress.
Glad you liked the video 😁
Because the leading edge of a rudder is subject to variable angles of pitch, a rounded leading edge is preferable to minimize stalling.
Hello, we have 1988 Centurion 47 in Greece and notice a ‘weep’ at the bottom of the rudder. No doubt in need to the same treatment as you have been through. Would you think it is possible to do without having to remove the rudder itself? Many thanks, we really enjoy your videos
Glad you enjoyed the video. Unfortunately this is probably not the answer you are looking for, but yes you will definitely need to remove the rudder.
True, not the answer we were looking for but thanks nonetheless for your honesty 😢
Just wondering what volume your rudder turned out to be and how much Sicomin foam you used. 👍
Hi there,
The volume of the rudder was:
11.25 packs of Rice Krisipies @ 4.09 litres per pack = 46.01 Litres
The foam expands to x4 it's original volume (weight=volume), so:
46.01 litres ÷ 4 = 11.5 litres
Sicomin recommend ordering + 10% of required volume:
11.5 litres + 10% = 12.65 litres
It comes in 6.8kg packs, so I ordered 2 of these and mixed 11.8kg this was just enough to fill the rudder once expanded.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for the detailed reply. 👍
Great video! I’m rebuilding my rudder as well on my 1987 Centurion 42 😂 how much of the expanding foam did you use? Thanks!
The short answer is we used 2 tins, we do break the calculations down in the video.
Bare in mind that temperature also has a contributing factor to the expansion rate.
The interior layers of fiberglass have a negligible effect on strength, as the exterior layers bear most of the load.
that makes zero logical sense , show me your evidence of this
Once the inner layers are bonded to the outer layer it is a monolithic structure and the load is applied to and shared by the whole structure. So your hypothesis is fundamentally flawed.