Clever stuff! There was I think how are you going to transfer the forces from the outer skin to the stock, then up pops the answer. It's fascinating to watch a master of modern composite construction and see how boatbuilding has evolved since the 60's when I started.
Great to see you build the rudders, especially impressive with limited resources ....... very surprised with how minimal structural/skeletal appendages you used to transfer rotational torque of rudder stock to blade. Thought you might even drill some lateral holes to fill with resin to lock it all together. Would love to hear more of a breakdown on your design/construction choices. Cheers
Steady hands of a sculptor. I would have torn that foam a bunch of times doing the shaping by hand. Very surprised the rudder stock tabs were so small. I was expecting them to run at least 1/2 the width of the rudder blade. Thank you once again for sharing all this!
Shame you couldn't get the core CNC cut :) Glad to see you use the same method of mixing in the cabosil as I do - just grab a handful and mix until it's right.
We did find a great composites guy with a CNC machine in Martinique but I had already glued the foam together by that stage so hand shaping it was. Anna loves the way I mix cabosil - half for the pot and the other half distributed evenly throughout the boat 😁 Was it you talking composite chainplates on Duracell project? Great video.
@@youngbarnacles Yes, that's me. And our cat who made the surprise guest appearance. Matt is doing a great job. He's doing nice work (though that wedge could have been more tapered but I never sent him a drawing for it. Sshh don't tell him and make him worried.)
Did this once for a C class cat, used Klegecell, vinyl ester and e glass for the first set, they broke in 15 knots, the next set were carbon unies and epoxy, sold the boat with them.
I am glad you put those torque tabs on. I was thinking you would start with the torque tabs and add foam later, a normal metallic method (but I used cedar instead of foam for the blanks). The torque tabs look so small compared to normal rudder construction. Cheers Phil
@@youngbarnacles Ok. I have not seen that. I am sure you made sure it wetted everything out but as I said I have never heard of that technique as it is generally thought to be harder to wet the fabric. Is there a trick or tactic to your way that I have never heard of? Is this done often with carbon fiber? ( I have no experience with carbon fiber only fiber glass).
I'm pretty sure we cover it in some of our earlier videos. I'll have to double check but may have been the one about flush skin fittings? or fixing damage to the hull?
haha! The Mercury 5 outboard motor is an industry standard clamping method. Honeycomb is not suitable because it is difficult to shape and if there is any water ingress it will fill up the honeycomb which is not what we want.
Clever stuff! There was I think how are you going to transfer the forces from the outer skin to the stock, then up pops the answer. It's fascinating to watch a master of modern composite construction and see how boatbuilding has evolved since the 60's when I started.
Thanks mate
You could almost make a “Primitive Technology” style channel showing the hours and ingenuity that goes into these designs, without words.
That guy has some patience and makes some great videos
Nice to see it coming together now
Fantastic video. I can't wait for the laminating video! Many thanks!
Great to see you build the rudders, especially impressive with limited resources ....... very surprised with how minimal structural/skeletal appendages you used to transfer rotational torque of rudder stock to blade. Thought you might even drill some lateral holes to fill with resin to lock it all together. Would love to hear more of a breakdown on your design/construction choices.
Cheers
Steady hands of a sculptor. I would have torn that foam a bunch of times doing the shaping by hand. Very surprised the rudder stock tabs were so small. I was expecting them to run at least 1/2 the width of the rudder blade. Thank you once again for sharing all this!
Cheers mate. When I designed the rudders I also calculated the size of the torque tabs needed. No point making them any bigger than they need to be.
Shame you couldn't get the core CNC cut :) Glad to see you use the same method of mixing in the cabosil as I do - just grab a handful and mix until it's right.
We did find a great composites guy with a CNC machine in Martinique but I had already glued the foam together by that stage so hand shaping it was.
Anna loves the way I mix cabosil - half for the pot and the other half distributed evenly throughout the boat 😁
Was it you talking composite chainplates on Duracell project? Great video.
@@youngbarnacles Yes, that's me. And our cat who made the surprise guest appearance. Matt is doing a great job. He's doing nice work (though that wedge could have been more tapered but I never sent him a drawing for it. Sshh don't tell him and make him worried.)
Cat cameo was hilarious 😂
Did this once for a C class cat, used Klegecell, vinyl ester and e glass for the first set, they broke in 15 knots, the next set were carbon unies and epoxy, sold the boat with them.
there's a lot of load on them rudders. Just got to make some Orca proof ones and we'll be rich
I am glad you put those torque tabs on. I was thinking you would start with the torque tabs and add foam later, a normal metallic method (but I used cedar instead of foam for the blanks). The torque tabs look so small compared to normal rudder construction. Cheers Phil
yup working with carbon and foam is a different method for sure
interesting watch 👍
Nice shaping skills. Make two more and glass them onto the bow upside down and back to front as extensions. 🙃
Haha! I got a quicker way to make those bows....
Amazing :)
Could you describe the design process?
A good suggestion for a later video - thanks
Good follow-up to the Shorts by Shayne the/my fellow Canetoad
You have got the kiwi ingenuity going. I haven't seen any #8 wire yet. I'm surprised by how small your tabs are for the amount of torque.
Haha! no number 8 wire in the islands but they do have plenty of zip ties.
Nice one.. the winglets in part two, or abandoned all together..?
no winglets. we wanted to but just ran out of time to make them. a pity because we'd love to see what a difference they make.
It looked like you were using thickened epoxy to wet out your carbon fiber tabs. Am I missing something?
Epoxy resin thickened with aerosil powder
@@youngbarnacles Ok. I have not seen that. I am sure you made sure it wetted everything out but as I said I have never heard of that technique as it is generally thought to be harder to wet the fabric. Is there a trick or tactic to your way that I have never heard of? Is this done often with carbon fiber? ( I have no experience with carbon fiber only fiber glass).
I'm pretty sure we cover it in some of our earlier videos. I'll have to double check but may have been the one about flush skin fittings? or fixing damage to the hull?
Was it not easyer to make it from honeycomb?
Mercury 5 as a weight was "properly using" :)
Sea knot you obviously have not tried to cut or shape honey comb .
haha! The Mercury 5 outboard motor is an industry standard clamping method.
Honeycomb is not suitable because it is difficult to shape and if there is any water ingress it will fill up the honeycomb which is not what we want.
Shayne's Rudder Build, Mini Series, Episodes all Combined