Weber Grill Repair - How to Replace the Burner Tubes
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- Need help replacing the Burner Tubes (Part # 62752) in your Weber Grill? Watch this how-to video with simple, step-by-step instructions for a successful DIY repair.
Don’t already have this part? You can pick up an authentic OEM part sourced directly from the original manufacturer here:
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Fix Part Number: FIX10510984
OEM Part Number: 62752
Why you might need to replace the Burner Tubes:
1. No Propane at Grill
2. Leaking Propane
The information in this video is specific to Weber Grills. To find a Burner Tube specific to your model Grill, or to use our helpful model number locator, visit www.fix.com
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Yea it’s great and informative. Unfortunately when you need to do this your grill will be nine or ten years old look a lot different on the inside. The flange bolts that hold the burners will be rusted round on top and heat welded to frame. After you file new shoulders on the rusty heads and clamp a vice grip on it they might come out or twist off. That’s fun, give yourself a good hour for that. Then you need replacement flange bolts. They’re 12-24’s. Good luck with that too. Then you’ll find the Phillips head screws that hold the wind screen and the front panel are welded tight as well. I did manage to twist the heads off two of those. Drill and tap those at 10-24 once you find those bits. Then go get a bath because it’s 5:30 pm and you can hope to put it back together tomorrow.
Oh man. This is so funny, but sadly so true. This is exactly my story today. It's so ridiculous that the new burners don't include new bolts and new wires.
I agree. I don't need a video to replace burner tubes on a BRAND NEW gas grill! Show me how to remove the rusted-on screws!
YES - my Weber is 12 years old and I had the same issues with rusted/welded screws and bolts. However, this video is very good anyway, I did learn a few things. Took me two days due to the rusted fasteners, but now my grill is good as new and cooks much better than before, with new burner tubes, heat deflectors, flavorizer bars and lighter!
The real info is always in the comments.
Thank you for the confirmation. This seemed like a ton of work from the video, and that’s working with a brand new and unused grill. Mine is 8 years old and the burners still work. I was thinking of changing them as a maintenance step but after seeing the video and reading your comment, I decided to leave it alone!
This is a thorough video, but I need a video showing how to do it on a 10 year old grill...corroded screws and everything.
I have the same issue... the screws are rusted and the heads are like dust..
@@egg1871 yep. Easy on a brand new grill. One that is older and well used…
I had to first use my Dremel with a metal cutting wheel to cut the tubes in two so I could get them out of the way. Then I used the Dremel with the metal cutting wheel to cut slots in the screws for a flat blade screwdriver. It worked, but the stainless steel screws were so soft that the slots almost didn't hold.
Step 1: Clean and remove meat sludge so you can actually see what you are doing.
Guys, you do not need to take your entire grill apart to change out your burner tubes! Here's how I changed my burner tubes on my ten year old Genesis in less than an hour. 1st - I used a small file to create two flat sides on the rusted/rounded off screwheads so I could use a pair of channel locks/vise grips to twist out the screws. Thankfully, the heads didn't break off. 2nd - I used a small screw driver to release the igniter bracket (like the tech does in the video). This allowed me to remove the old burner tubes from the grill. 3rd - I slid the old igniter brackets onto my new burner tubes and laid them into their positions. 4th - I used the included screws from Weber to tighten down the new tubes. Piece of cake! No taking apart the front of the grill, or disconnecting wires.
"and now we're going to remove the grill lid.."
I can’t believe this reply has not received more attention!? I was lucky enough to be able to loosen and remove the screws without any problem even though my grill is 10 years old. Thanks to this comment, I was also able to remove the old burner tubes without taking apart any of the front of the grill. Just used a screwdriver to release the tabs pulled out the old tubes put the new ones on, secured the igniters, screwed tubes back in and I was done in about one hour. And a good part of that was cleaning all of the charred sludge from 10 years out of the bottom!😆
Yes, your procedure is simpler. I had much the same thought as I watched the video. I intend to follow your example. I do want to replace the bolts holding down the burner tubes, which in my case are rusted/corroded but still barely manageable with a socket wrench. My new tubes did not come with replacement bolts, but another commenter identified them as 12-24. Works for me.
Thank you, this worked for me. My grill is about 11 years old and I was able to remove all three burner tubes without touching the rusted screws that (previously) had secured the tubes. The new tubes slipped right over the existing bolts (they aren't secured, but it really doesn't matter). The hardest part was removing the ignitors from the old tubes, which I eventually got out with some pliers (but be careful not to bend the ignitor brackets too much).
Thanks for this! My bolts are basically gone on my 12 year old Genesis, so my tubes just popped out. 5 minutes later all 3 new tubes are installed. No bolts securing them, but I'm not expecting them to leave.
working on a brand new grille is easy. Try this on a 10 year rusted, burned unit.
I just did this today. Although the video is useful, it doesn’t address the main issue all of us face with an old rusty grille. The burner screws essentially welded to the frame. My grille is about 7-8 yrs old and two of the burner tubes were essentially flaking off the holes. I ordered the standard 3-burner tube replacement kit from Weber (it doesn’t come w the sear burner tube, but you can always replace the sear burner with one of the old burners that’s least damaged. I don’t use the sear much. Before I ordered, I made sure I could remove the old burners. I could not remove the screws in any way. But surprisingly the burner tubes got a little loose once I tapped on the screws and wiggled them around. Once I could get the rusty end, where the U flanges of the tubes are, wiggled off the screws, they came out. The tube assembly comes w Weber instructions, which I followed. They say to remove the lid, but it’s not necessary. The guy on the video says to number the ignition leads, but it’s not necessary either, since they are color coded. Definitely made a big difference - blue flame! Hadn’t seen that in ages. Bottom line, see if you can remove the old burners by tapping on them and wiggling them, then you’re good
Thanks for your comment, I just got a set of 4 burners warrantied for a 2012 E330 Genesis. My current burners wiggle enough that I think I can use your insight to replace them. My grill spent 7 years of its life inside a garage when not in use, and 4 years outside always under a cover when not in use, so I may have some better luck with the welding of the screws.
Real easy on a new grill!
I changed my Genesis from NG to LP.. It was cake and only cost 65 bucks for parts.. WD 40 on the burner bolts for 2 days soaking really helped.. Weber said they would not sell me the parts, but I found them online.. Weber also wanted to sell me a new grill LOL. ya right.. This one was 1200.00 The job only took me about 1 hour and that included cleaning it.. OK maybe 1.5 hrs.. I like it a lot better now... Don't forget to set your air vents when finishing.. You should have a blue flame not yellow.
Removing the screws doesn’t work like this when they r corroded. Done with Weber grills
You can pull them out without pulling the grill apart. And the wires were already color coded
Everyone has a problem with the rusted screws for the burner tubes. A better design would be to use a hex shank the 12/24 screw threads on the bottom (like the stand offs on a computer case that hold a computer motherboard). The hex shank would need to come up about a 1/2”, and have a groove around the top. Screw the hex shank in place, drop the burner tube flange around it the pop a C clip into the groove to hold it in place. Years later when it’s time to re0ace the burners, simply pop off the C clip, replace the burners and pop a C clip back on. I suggested this to Weber…. Would be a great after market improvement! Now I gotta go remove two stuck screws that have been soaked with PB blaster for a few days. Ugg
Huh… I was able to slide the tube slightly to the front to clear the screw head and lift the burner out, then disconnect the igniter, then install a new burner (pop on the igniter and push thru the front then down in the back past the screw head, then forward under the head). Don’t need to replace the screws.
Got mine off easy...just used WD 40 to unfreeze
Great video! Since my igniter stopped working 3 months after purchase (like they all do), I simply pulled out the burner, cut the wire and didn't have to disassemble anything! Entire burner changeout took 5 minutes on my 12 year old Weber..
My igniter worked for 11 years, going to be changing it today, fingers crossed
excellent video but like others the burner screws are the issue .
Do anyone have a relacement method for holding burnwrs in place ??
Very good video, Very bad design by Weber to just repack burners. I had a Vermont Casting Grill, and they just twisted out ??
I sell propane and propane accessories.
It would have taken a long long time to remove the igniter without this video. Thanks so much!
This is an absolutely excellent video- comprehensive but to the point as well. Thank you!!!
I just did this today. Thanks for the video. Very helpful. It's like my grill is brand new with new tubes and igniter. Zero to 500 degrees in a minute or two. 😀
I have a Weber Spirit 300 (I think) and I did not have to remove the front controls cover. I unscrewed the fasteners along the back and they all pulled out fairly easily. The only thing I’d pay attention to is the orientation of the igniter and really it’s only going to operate if it’s mounted correctly. The other little detail is to pay attention to how that cross tube that feeds gas to the middle and right burners is installed. Look at the existing one before removing it.
Also, somewhere someone asked about natural gas versus propane. I don’t think it matters became that detail is part of how (which connections) the gas is fed to the grill. Mine uses natural gas piped in from my house.
Excellent video for that newer Genesis model. I wish my older model was as easy. Hope they do other models and other parts of Weber grills.
I have a 2012 vintage S470. It seems quite different. Each burner valves has a spring actuated mechanism that lights each burner tube respectively. How do I take this apart?
I am working to clean up the fire box. The burner tubes have a lot of plugged holes. The tube mount piece (screw into the base casting) screws appear pretty corroded. Will they come out, or will the screws break?
Rather then chance breaking one I just chipped around the edge of the rusted burner hex nuts allowing me to pull up the burner tubes. I was able to slide the new ones under the remaining flange. With that time saved I took the ten minutes to remove then replace the front panel. Doing that made dealing with the wiring so much easier.
What about an old rusted grill, show me that!
Just got done with the job and could not have done it without this video. The parts came without instructions so this information was invaluable. I have the Weber documentation and would not have known how to handle the igniter clips without it. Agree with JonRichhart about the time needed and the difficulty with the flange bolts. I was able to finagle the burners off and then, with a bunch of liquid wrench, get a grip on them and remove them with pliers (as the heads had corroded.
My screws holding the tubes down were rusted rotten and heat welded into place. Cut a small groove in head with dremel and used a hand held impact tool with a hammer and all came out relatively easy. And you DONT need to take the whole front apart to replace the tubes!!!!
I agree with many of the other comments. My grill is 7-8 years old and used a lot. Unfortunately it has Ben blown over a few times and when removing the air deflector plate the plastic pieces were broken. I Jerry rigged it but any other issues and it’s going to the curb. The video was very helpful, however.
On my 2011 model, several of the screws that must be removed are torx, not Phillips. Not knowing this, I ruined the heads on two, trying to use a Phillips bit. 😢
Excellent video, thank you. One question, what size are screws in the back that hold the tubes in place? Mine are rusted and covered, having difficulty getting them out. Trying not to strip them anymore. Thank you.
thanks for this comprehensive video. my problem is having a 2011 génesis 330 which has a sear burner. having dismantled the bbq, i noticed i have a similar ignition with four connectors each attached to the four burners. The replacement i received, which is similar to the one you have illustrated, has an additional white line connected to the centre burner connector. i don’t know what to do about the white cable since the four burners are already wired up.
Just shoot me, wait, I'll get a new grill instead.
Thank you for this video. You just added another 5 to 10 years on my grill for me.
this is a lot of work to replace tubes. i have a Ducane grill and i only have to open it up, turn the tubes, pull them out.
My God!
I was looking for a quick installation!
One needs to disassemble 50% of the bbq grill.
This was an EXCELLENT video. We have the same BBQ and getting the igniters off of the burner was driving me crazy until you explained how. Thanks!!
yea no way would i even attempt this.
Joke! The bolts are rotted and screws will snap off. Save you time and throw it out.
@@tedmueller949 Pitching a $700 grill over some rusted screws. Do you have your vehicles compacted when they need tires?
Sweet Jesus. I already bought the new burners and was going to replace them so thought I'd google a quick how to. F that. This is nuts. Gonna clean them again and thought it out.
Nice video I wish mine was that clean, should remind people to disconnect gas first though
Disassembled, (rusty burner bolts and all) and reassembled, checking with the video every step of way, and it literally took me longer to find the sear burner from a vendor selling it online than it did to do the whole process of removing the doors, control panel, wind guard, old burners, heat deflectors and flavorizer bars, cleaning up the interior of the grill and reinstalling the new parts (burners, deflectors and flavorizers). The new parts did indeed include replacement screws to secure the burners, so the mfr must have heard past consumer complaints about not providing those replacement screws with the new burners. This video provided great clarity among the video footage and the instructions. There are a lot of videos on YT about replacing the burners but even if you own a 2016 Genesis E300 series, this video still applies. (Note: The green connection is a black wire on my grill, not white as depicted but still in the #2 position connecting the sear burner. All other reference points were identical to my grill.) Thanks so much for giving me the resources to tackle this on my own.
Hi, I have a 2011 E330 that one of the burner tubes needs replacement. Looks like they come in sets of 3. Can you tell me where you purchased the replacement tubes? Are they Weber parts or 3rd party? Thanks
This can totally be done without taking the entire front of the grill off! Clearly a local dealer produced this instruction video. Hahaha.
Super helpful. Way better than supplied instructions. Thank you.
thanks a lot it was really really helpful!
The process is smooth as long as you have a NEW BBQ. Imagine my grill that is 10 years old, and I need to replace the burners. Everything else seems fine. The FIRST challenge is removing the rusted deteriorated SS screws that hold the burners in place. I have soaked the screws with penetrating oil for over a week. They won't budge. What is the nut driver size to use? 5/16" seems too big, 9/32" won't fit either; too small. Can the burners be removed w/o removing the screws? Will the burner pull out beneath the clip?? Any help is welcome. I don't wish to replace the entire BBQ when the burners are the only issue. Should I cut the screws off then figure out an alternative attachment? Could the rear of the burner just rest on the support w/o mechanical attachment?
I got two out of three out, but like you, I soaked it with penetrating oil for over two hours, without luck. I used vice grips to try to turn it, but that didn’t work either. I finally used a pair of pliers and bent the left lip on the back of the tube out of the way, and removed the tube. Then I was able to get a grip on the screw with the vice grips and remove it.😂
@@squire330 damn I am in the same situation
helped a bunch, thank you
This was an excellent tutorial and made the process rather straight forward. I was unable to pull the wires from the ignition block, but was still able to swap out the burner tubes.
Thanks so much!
Thank you! Very helpful.
Great presentation. Thank you.
Very informative and very helpful. The whole process went very smoothly! I was not expecting it to go well after reading all of these negative comments. My grill is about 7 years old so maybe if I waited 10 years like some others did, it may have been a different story.
Perfect, thank you!
Perfect. Thank you
what size rachet is needed to remove the burner screws?
Hopefully you figured it out by now. First of all, your question should be "what size socket"? Secondly, can't you just grab a size that look close and switch it out until you find the right size like most people do? It would take less time than writing the question...
nice video
Great video!! thx.
Where did you get the new burners??
He got them from Googling "burner tubes for [enter your make & model here]"....A dozen sources will come up.
This is one of the best how to videos that I've ever seen. Wow! Well organized and filmed. Thanks for your effort.
Step 1: Clean and remove meat sludge so you can actually see what you are doing.
If you cannot afford to replace your 10 year old weber, you should change job
Well that’s a silly statement. Buy a whole new grill rather than just replace some parts? Has nothing to with cost but rather common sense and making something last longer. Guess the throw away mentality is strong and thriving in many.
Flat tire = new car, eh?
@@baldilocksmcfedders6335 old car = new car
Translation: You are not handy, so you replace everything that breaks and pretend you have so much money that you can waste it. All in an attempt to hide the fact that you have 10 thumbs and probably do not own any quality tools. Income has nothing to do with it. I make $154k a year but am mechanically inclined and get satisfaction from fixing something it if is still in excellent condition. $85 and maybe 2 hours of time to fix something that costs $2,600 (I have a Summit S-670) seems to make much more sense. But I'm sure your comment makes you feel so cool. Douchebag.
Seriously, you have to disassemble half the frill just to replace the burners? That's ridiculous! To start my screws are rusted stuck.
Try WD-40 or some penetrating oil (Kroil does pretty well). I was fortunate: there was enough of the heads left for a socket to grip.