Motorcycle shift shaft repair, Suzuki TS125 Part 1
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- Опубліковано 16 вер 2024
- In this video I repair the shift shaft on the TS125 Suzuki, I cut new splines and repair a bent shaft at the same time. Most of the machine work is done in this part. Assembly will follow in Part 2.
Wright Machining
• Making a Motorcycle Sh...
Wow, what a very satisfying video! Creative, ingenious and clever. Well done, Dale!
Man, it's fun doing this stuff, about time for you to test the waters isn't it, Jim?
Great video Dale. Anything you do on the Lathe or Mill is always fun to watch.
Thanks Greg, I like integrating the machine work with the motorcycle projects. It is fun to see how many parts I can save or make from scratch.
nothing better in the morning than the smell of a lathe and machine oil!
Right on brother
Interesting fix Dale. As an aside I had Ryan Wright fit a set of pistons to an old Yamaha 180 ( a YCS1) for me. I was unaware that Ryan had a UA-cam channel! He's a very nice guy.
Thanks Alex, it was a fun project, I have had one on my flat tracker for over 50 years. They really do work great. I am not familiar with Ryan, what is the name of his UA-cam channel, I looked up his name and couldn't find it. The 180 bonanza was a really neat bike, I have a 71 CS3C 200 street scrambler that I will be getting into the shop pretty soon. Very much the same bike.
Dale: You referred to his UA-cam channel "Wrightmachining" so I had a look and recognized Ryan. He was a friend of one of my boys (from High School if I remember).
@@dralexmclean oh yes, the gentleman in Canada that did the spline cutting for the shift shaft. I just didn't remember his name. That's great and a cool story to boot.
Hello Dale, that was excellent. I have to say "shift shaft" very slowly for fear of saying a word that is acknowledged on both sides of the Atlantic as an expletive, and which would imply I thought your shaft wasn't very good! I thought it was superb. A really great video to watch and learn from. I have to look up the US steel specs to see the British Equivalent but I'd totally agree with my wise Brother, case hardening it is.
Thanks Carl, yes be careful how you say it, it just slips out. Hey this was a lot of fun learning how to do this, not that bad of a job. But you must use the proper technique for sure. Yep, you guys are both sharp about all this stuff. I sure appreciate the help and support.
Exceptional job Dale, your splines were perfect. I'm keeping this one in mind as D group BSAs have a tendency to eat the Kickstarter splines.
You could case harden your spline end, the 1018 (sometimes called C18D over here) will take it. It won't solution treat very well so case hardening is probably your only option to make a difference. I wouldn't bother, I think your well fitting splines will last the distance.
Best wishes, Dean.
Thanks Dean, I was very happy with how they turned out, it took a while to determine the splines per inch, but got it done. Thanks for the suggestion on case hardening, think that is what we will try.
Agreed. 08M15 by BS970 and I think that is EN32B in old money.
Thanks for the videos Dale. I sorted out my dads 71 TS125 watching your videos. I recommend your videos to all my friends. My shift shaft looks similar but not quite as bad.
Thanks Rusty, I am glad folks are getting some good from them old videos. I enjoy making them and talking with all the like-minded people out there. Just keep the bolt tight on your lever and hopefully it will last a good long time.
I would have bet money you were going to cut those splines with the Mill somehow. Of course I am just learning. But wow that was most interesting apparatus and process. I did get tickled about the debris "in the cogs" as it were. I was watching and my mind was saying I can't believe Dale is leaving that stuff there. About then you stopped and cleared it.
Well, there you have it David, you know what they say about great minds thinking the same. Well, that's what they say anyway. This was a project for a friend, that ask if I could do that, I had to get some tooling, but it was pretty easy to do after a couple practice runs. That would have been a real bear to do on the milling machine.
Great Job Dale !! I'm sure the owner will be more than pleased with that repair job, I'm guessing it may be best to always keep that pinch bolt on the tight side, just to minimise any slop which can wear those splines, I always wondered how they cut those splines, and you have learnt a new skill on the way, Interesting video Dale, Malc U.K.
Thanks again Malc, I think he will be pleased, this has been another fun project, I like learning and I do it every day. Keep the brain sharp they say, LOL
Nice work. I like using 4130 and 4140 because you can torch harden the area then quench it in water to 50 rc easy.
Hey, Matt, how are you, I was wondering about that, but I would probably have to get a carbide knurl wheel. It's tough go as it is. I think I may try to Case harden with some Cherry Red compound; surface hardening is better than nothing. What you think. Thanks for stopping by.
@Dale Sweger yes thats a good idea. I harden chrome moly after machining is finished. Its jusr a quick heat to dull red and quench
Nice work!
Thanks Kyle, I appreciate you stopping by.
great repair dale could u not have drilled and taped it 4 extra backup having said that probaly overkill keep up the good work
Thanks Mark, yes you could do that, and I always figure over kill is better than under kill. My plan is once it is pressed together and welded, I will install a pin where they go together for more overkill....LOL
nice fix.
Thanks Doug, I have learned a lot in this series. It was a lot of fun. Thanks for stopping by.
Hi Dale. Great video as usual!!
I talked to you about lacing wheels a couple weeks ago and told you I was building a Trackmaster Yamaha TD2 twin project. I want to move the shifter to the right side. I have it planned out to go behind the motor. This video you just did on the shift shaft was perfect. I n Ed a shaft that’s going to be maybe 10-12 inches long with the splines on each end. If I would give you the length and diameter of the shaft can you make me one? Man you have mad skillz. Thom
Thanks Thom, I will get back to you when I get it figured out for sure. Your project looks like a fun one. I plan to do a flat tracker build in the future and may have to do something similar. Any more concerns or questions just message me. Thanks for stopping by.
@@montana2strokeracer You’re the best Dale!! Thanks
Heck on this deal I can use Suzuki shift levers!! Lol!!
Yamasuki🤪
funny word swarf, heard it used to discribe metal pieces in transmission and engine oil.
I works for a lot of crummy situations..
Good job brother
Thanks Cain, I sure you have another project in the works. What you up to?
@@montana2strokeracer still piddling with the Honda 200es
always wondered how splines were made.
I think most are rolled like this, can't imagine cutting them one at a time with an indexer.
@@montana2strokeracer yeah, think stuff like this is why your getting lots of interest on your channel. always something new and interesting.
Well, great work, but with the trouble of making it two piece, I'm wondering I guess, why you didn't just make one whole new shaft?
Video before, you worked on anSuzuki RM 250 coil. Is a project RM250 coming?? That would be great!!
Robert
Hey Robert, no on the RM250 at this point. It was just a repair for a customer. The whole purpose was to repair the cracked plug wire insulation at the coil entry point. Over did it a bit, but he is happy.
I'm with you on that one. And ya I'm only a year late with the comment.
Hey Dale; awesome work! One question: I didn't notice how the thickness of the cutoff tool was accounted for in the total length of the new part. Did I miss something?
Hey Johnnie, no you didn't miss it, I did it off camera. The width of my cut off blade is .087. I made sure I had enough, but there is more than enough sticking out if you were of that much one way or the other, I think you would be ok. On a Yamaha it would be more critical because of the snap ring used on the shaft just outside the case. Sharp eye buddy. Thanks for stopping by.
Hi how’s it going I was wondering if you could help me out I’ve been watching you ts videos and was wondering what size oil pump lines you use ( from the pump to cylinder ) the smallest line I can find is 3/16 and it’s not close to fitting
Thanks
Hi there, I am wondering what bike you are working on. Is it the hard clear lines on the Suzuki's, if so I use 5/32 x.106 nylon line, its rated at 333 psi. Pretty sure I got it from McMaster Carr. If it's the Yamaha oil lines, I buy all that direct from Yamaha, it is all still available from Parts Zilla or Rocky Mountain ATV/MC. Oh OK, I see now you are working on a TS Suzuki. I assume you have watched my video on the TS 250 oil line repair. Just grab some good two-part epoxy and the plastic line, clean good and drill as close to size as possible, 5/32. Thanks for stopping by, and best of luck with your repair. Holler if you have more questions.
hey! what can i say,4:14am Sunday.
hello , i have one to repair , please can you tell me what tool you used and size of it so i can order one
I use a Dorian tool, #16
Hi Dale, regarding a TC125, my back sprocket has play to the wheel. I assume it has a rubber drive or something. Can you still get them and does that mean the bearing is shot also?
Hi there, the rear sprocket does have some rubber dampers, they almost always have some free play, perhaps 1/2 to 3/4 inch back and forth, that doesn't mean they are worn out, if you are hearing metallic noises, you have a problem. Just pull off the wheel and the sprocket and look at them they should still be intact and stay in the hub. Not sure if they are still available or not. There is a guy on FB that makes rubber parts like that, don't remember his name, but he just made some clutch dampers for a guy I know, and he sent me some to install, they look good and fit right. No, you will have to look and feel the bearing to see if it is still ok or not. Just because there play at the sprocket has nothing to do with the bearing.
@@montana2strokeracer Awesome thanks so much. The play sounds about right. I’m about to mount a new tyre so will check when it’s off the bike. Thanks again. Your knowledge and brilliant videos are a real gem.
How do you determine what pitch knurl to use? Thanks!
Oh boy, that was my thought too when I started laying out this project. LOL, I used a very scientific approach. I took the old shaft and applied ink to it and rolled it on a piece of paper and then layed out a ruler and counted the number of splines in one inch. Holy cow.... worked like a champ. Thanks Karl, and thanks for hanging out in the shop with me.
@@montana2strokeracer I was just wondering the same thing as I have a kickstarter spline thats going to need the same treatment, but obviously with a greater pitch spline. Thanks for clarifying that & I like the way you came up with the solution. Keep up the good work, Mark in the UK
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Of course you are. Good job.