Awesome video! One thing I’d recommend is to get a mover dolly from harbor freight and place it under the engine, then dismount the engine mounts. It makes it so much easier to roll the engine in and out. I’ve done it many times with success
Like I said in another vid. You already have the vtec head and the arp head studs. Put the head on your d16a bottom end. Your p28 ecu will run it perfect. The only thing you have to remember is to remove the oil restrictor in the block. Your wiring harness is already wired for vtec too.
Have you tried to pull the harness throught he firewall? Just unbolting the metal plate underneath the battery tray, unplug the ecu and you should be able to pull those 3 ecu connectors individually though the firewall. That wall you can unplug the harness out of the car, more space. Put the harness on the engine before you put it back in, saves alot of hassle/time. And you can make the harness a bit neater. I pull the engine from under the car the same way!
Before I made the jump to dohc vtech jdm gsr I purchase a jdm d15b vtech. It was 1k but it was well worth the money. Now I'm getting ready to pull my gsr out of my integra and put it in a eg 4dr I just picked up for 300 with a blown head gasket.
That you want to sell or do you know anybody to have any parts for a y7 because I need some parts can you please help me out thank you very much and you make it look very easy taking the engine out
So my wiring harness doesn't come off like that at the passenger fender well. The harness goes all the way back into the firewall one piece? Is that an aftermarket product? I had to completely take everything off the engine
thanks for watching man and glad to hear you are tracking your car too! d series at that! yeah, I plan to keep my z6 and y8 heads around for Travis and I to use in the future should we go that route
So I was thinking I don't know if you and Travis know about the Blox d16 oil pick up tube. It has a kinda built-in baffle to help keep oil slosh and oil starvation down when on track and is like 30 to 50 bucks and is a nice insurance for those new motors you got. Yeah the d16a is basically our old d16a6 high compression non VTEC motor so still gonna be fun on track.
@@RefineMovement ok so I found it but didn't realize you have to use the obx oil pan that is 300 bucks so the pick up is cheap because the pan is not. That is my bad. Some people mod the factory pan and add some material to make a deep sump which would be cheaper. It just keeps more oil in the pan so you don't starve it in corners. Sorry to mislead on that. If you know someone who can weld you could do that. Pans are like 50 bucks.
same coolant hose that fed the heater core. just turned it around. I’d like to do it a bit more proper and create a nice “u” joint hose purpose made for the delete
On the radiator support, off on the drivers side there is a thick piece of metal that is good to jack it up from. The factory part there works fine for jacking the car up. If the radiator support has been replaced with an aftermarket piece then yeah, I have heard of those bending easily
@@RefineMovement yeah it was definitely aftermarket that’s why it bent cheap Chinese shit lol wasn’t a thick solid piece thin metal that crunches like crackers lol
Omg finally motor mounts !!! Your process for dropping the engine in a bit cringe. I use the @youngstatic approach . Glad to see the channel back up. Any new effect shirts coming?
yeah I needed those motor mounts. I’ve done the engine removal two times this way now and it works great for me. No new Eefect shirts, the owner sold the business but we are working on a few other things lately. I also have a new RM sticker in the works!
I run 225/50/15 but next time I’d like 225/45/15. that would keep it more in line with the sizing of a 205/50 like you mentioned, just with the extra width
Awesome video! One thing I’d recommend is to get a mover dolly from harbor freight and place it under the engine, then dismount the engine mounts. It makes it so much easier to roll the engine in and out. I’ve done it many times with success
Like I said in another vid. You already have the vtec head and the arp head studs. Put the head on your d16a bottom end. Your p28 ecu will run it perfect. The only thing you have to remember is to remove the oil restrictor in the block. Your wiring harness is already wired for vtec too.
Thanks for the video on non engine hoist removal! Great work!
i love how everything you mod is chassis related, completely maxing out what this car was made for
I did it, same way you dropped you’re engine I took a few pointers and had it out within a hour. Thanks for the video and the awesome content.
The dip stick breaking 😭🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Well Willow senior radio just wondering if you happen to have any parts off in all motor
this video is so good i forgot i watched this whole series
dang most people beg for like and subscribe this guy just thanked the viewers for clicking
Have you tried to pull the harness throught he firewall? Just unbolting the metal plate underneath the battery tray, unplug the ecu and you should be able to pull those 3 ecu connectors individually though the firewall. That wall you can unplug the harness out of the car, more space. Put the harness on the engine before you put it back in, saves alot of hassle/time. And you can make the harness a bit neater. I pull the engine from under the car the same way!
That’s what I did. Works great
I just did this method 4 days ago pulled out d16y7 gonna drop in my built d16a 🤙
Thanks for the video man youve been a huge help. love your channel😎👍. ive got an EJ8 with a d16y8 in it, bout to drop n re-build the motor.
Before I made the jump to dohc vtech jdm gsr I purchase a jdm d15b vtech. It was 1k but it was well worth the money. Now I'm getting ready to pull my gsr out of my integra and put it in a eg 4dr I just picked up for 300 with a blown head gasket.
That you want to sell or do you know anybody to have any parts for a y7 because I need some parts can you please help me out thank you very much and you make it look very easy taking the engine out
So my wiring harness doesn't come off like that at the passenger fender well. The harness goes all the way back into the firewall one piece? Is that an aftermarket product? I had to completely take everything off the engine
I like d series motors, I have a couple of ej8s that are still #sohc, keep up the good work.
Can you provide the link to your in depth engine harness removal video please?
Good work, I love your channel I am also building a d series track vehicle ej8.... but you can put the vtec d16y8 head on the new short block.
thanks for watching man and glad to hear you are tracking your car too! d series at that! yeah, I plan to keep my z6 and y8 heads around for Travis and I to use in the future should we go that route
Nice video bro! Why not b swap it instead or maybe k swap? Much more worth with all that work that you have to do i think?
Congrats on the swap dude!
Awesome Video 👍👍‼️
It's like you guys never left
Hey brother, do you need to pull the subframe in order to take the engine out the way you did?
No subframe my guy engine is mounted to the frame so to speak
So did you turbo it?
So I was thinking I don't know if you and Travis know about the Blox d16 oil pick up tube. It has a kinda built-in baffle to help keep oil slosh and oil starvation down when on track and is like 30 to 50 bucks and is a nice insurance for those new motors you got. Yeah the d16a is basically our old d16a6 high compression non VTEC motor so still gonna be fun on track.
that’s great to know Nick, thank you! I haven’t heard of that before and will be taking a look!
@@RefineMovement yeah I got one for my d16a1 in my 88 teg in case I want to track it.
Nick I can’t find this can you send us a link?
@@RefineMovement yeah let me see.
@@RefineMovement ok so I found it but didn't realize you have to use the obx oil pan that is 300 bucks so the pick up is cheap because the pan is not. That is my bad. Some people mod the factory pan and add some material to make a deep sump which would be cheaper. It just keeps more oil in the pan so you don't starve it in corners. Sorry to mislead on that. If you know someone who can weld you could do that. Pans are like 50 bucks.
Hopefully is a kswap 😎
Have the bone stock d16y7 from 96 and shes still kickin at 217k 🤘🏻b swap comin soon
217 aint nothin for a y7 those engines were built for highway miles, i bet it still runs… if not ran out of oil that is
@@ryankizer4271shit even without oil those mfs run.
The oil pan can hold great weight?
It can hold the engine and transmission just fine
@@UntiI117 ok, thanks
Nice!
D15B2 ~ 102hp
D16Y7 ~ 106hp
D16A ~ 120hp
D16Z6/D16Y8 ~ 127hp
That low mile D16A mannn. Makes me wanna get one if my Y7 ever blows
what type of hose did you use for the heater core delete ?
same coolant hose that fed the heater core. just turned it around. I’d like to do it a bit more proper and create a nice “u” joint hose purpose made for the delete
I was waiting for the motor to drop. You should have left that footage in!
haha. it literally just goes down not even an inch by the time the bolts are all the way out of the drivers side mount
@@RefineMovement I was like, lay down or cardboard first boi! Makes it easier to slide 👍
You should get those little wooden dollys from harbor freight if you like to drop the engine that way
Ever thought about upgrading brake line to stainless steel lines?
absolutely! I’ll get there eventually haha
Refine Movement I got brand new steel stop tech brake lines for the front, should fit your model. You can have them for free if you like.
So no y8 head on this d16a?
Dancing fruit music is hilarious
Man I wish engine removal on my 6th gen were easy like this lol
Well that broked
How much you pay for the engine?
Where are you jacking the car up from the front ? No way your jacking it on radiator support !?!?! I’ve bent mine doing that a while ago
On the radiator support, off on the drivers side there is a thick piece of metal that is good to jack it up from. The factory part there works fine for jacking the car up. If the radiator support has been replaced with an aftermarket piece then yeah, I have heard of those bending easily
@@RefineMovement yeah it was definitely aftermarket that’s why it bent cheap Chinese shit lol wasn’t a thick solid piece thin metal that crunches like crackers lol
Put a Delta 272 cam, worth it.
Omg finally motor mounts !!! Your process for dropping the engine in a bit cringe. I use the @youngstatic approach . Glad to see the channel back up. Any new effect shirts coming?
yeah I needed those motor mounts. I’ve done the engine removal two times this way now and it works great for me. No new Eefect shirts, the owner sold the business but we are working on a few other things lately. I also have a new RM sticker in the works!
what size tires are you running? Im debating 195/50 or 205/50 on 15x6.5 inch wheels
looks like 15x8 6uls
I run 225/50/15 but next time I’d like 225/45/15. that would keep it more in line with the sizing of a 205/50 like you mentioned, just with the extra width
@@RefineMovement cool thanks! Also congrats on becoming a dad :)
Can someone help me that lives in Charlotte??
love it! #savethesohc
Im confused 11:49 non vtec.. D16a has a block plate in the back you have to swap in your vtec solenoid in and it is vtec.
U shoulda been boosted that civic
Yay k swap now
Sic
I,d have a beer with that guy. Engine out the bottom for me.
I know it's been a year, but I'm ready to go on two cars. One car needs just the trans out. I have a lift. Would it be easier to drop the whole thing?
Come on bro go B series that shit don’t have powered
waste of time. delete.