Fastfoot® Residential Concrete Footing Installation
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- www.fab-form.com
Fastfoot® is a fabric footing form that prevents rising damp. Stakes are driven into the ground, 2x4 screed boards attached at the correct height, and Fastfoot® is stapled to each 2x4 to form and protect the concrete from ground moisture.
being a bricklayer many years I don't have much use because my footers are under grade but I do like the use on the steps
Used to, we had nothing but shovels, maybe an 8N with a scoop. Now, we have skid steer, tractors, backhoe. I just did my brothers house, put it all below grade. Just threw the dirt back in. Just a few mins with bobcat. Plus, could back dump truck across footing to fill foundation, we left a hole. Used up all the long boards and stakes on the house. Actually ran out and bought more. My brick layer won't be on his knees laying bricks or blocks. I dig a 5' wide ditch with the bobcat. He can stand beside the 2' high footing and start laying. Put a little mud between bricks and wall. I can backfill and he can put his scaffolding to continue up. They seem to like it too.
It's cool you have your boys working with you I also take my son to work on my jobs. He's 12.
Nakeran
nakeran28.9.16
No need for bleeders so you can hook up drain tile? LMAO. what a bunch of rookies.
You would still need to stake the 2x12s into the ground to prevent any movement. And who wants to buy 2x12's when you can buy 2x4's? This way you get a guaranteed level footing, regardless of how bad your excavation is. All while dampproofing your footing.
a great way to spend time with your sons and teach a life lesson. Thank you for the info.
Regarding the issue of grounding : at 2:53 it is suggested to nail the bottom. Four 16d nails shall give enough grounding, however nailing the bottom is not needed, neither would I cut the fabric to assure direct contact with the soil (see letter in the comments). I would connect no.2 equivalent reclaimed grounding copper wire to the metal rebars with an acorn bracket and the other end of the wire will go to the two copper inground rods required by the code. I would use the copper rods anyway because I want to be able to check at anytime that indeed I have a proper grounding.
Why do we waterproof a wall, and then leave our footings unprotected? Concrete is a sponge. It will absorb moisture from where it is most wet (the footing), and take it to where it is dry (The basement). This product contains the concrete and prevents moisture from wicking through the footing and into the home.
You lost me at driving 152 2x4s into the ground lol
@@jimhabsfan like myself who know there are steel rods with holes in them for such an application? They drive much easier, hold just as well and a reusable!
Great for uneven ground, very strong yet easy to cut. Still requires lots of work, forms still need perfect placement, height, leveling, plumb, etc. If deep, (over 12") you need lots of extra wood form still. 2x6s or 2x8s, multiple rows of support wood, vertical every 3-4' , every vertical supported, cross ties every couple feet. Then it works great. Very light, easy to place after forms built, contours to surface well. Greatly reduces work on uneven ground, it will contour to it all.
Awesome idea......saves time and materials good job guys.....thanks for the great video
Would you rather buy a bunch of 2x12, ship them to a jobsite, chop them up, and then throw them away after the concrete pour? Form footings with 2x4s and Fastfoot. Then re-use the lumber in the framing of the house. No alkaline damage to the 2x4's, and a dampproof footing at the same time!
My thinking exactly.
The Fastfoot® fabric must bulge out to provide its strength. This does not mean that you will be using more concrete though.
You place your stakes at your footing width, so the top of your footing is 3" narrower than its bottom.
Loads are transferred from the wall, through the footing, and to the ground at a 45 degree angle. Meaning that the top sides of a footing are typically serving no purpose.
In fact you will save on concrete as none will be escaping through the bottom of the form.
Yeah, having done my fair share of footings, it actually looks like it's an efficient method as long as the fabric is fairly durable and rip resistant.
You are correct. Fabric never tore on me. I love it.
Very time saving and cost effective
This is a ten year old video, you don't hear anything about using this way of building foundation an or footings. Must not have worked out as they hoped for. Would like to see the build today to see if there have been any foundation problems. Such as settling and so on.
I would head to our instagram page for more recent projects; instagram.com/fabformindustries/
Settling of a foundation would have to do with the soil and the contact width of the footing as per geo-technical engineers. Nothing to do with Fastfoot!
Guys, I don't have any idea about this message for the video in question. This was not sent by me. But this would explain a few things that had been happening with my phone around this time. That had to be addressed. Someone I found, had put a bug into my phone. Sooooo! much apology to you and yours my friend. Take care.
Dude, the whole idea behind this method is not to waste lumber, so you can instead use 2x4 screw them high and use the fabric to hold the concrete in.
Agreed. Once the concrete has set, simply back the screws out and the lumber can be reused.
Great-idea..creativity-at-work..and-the-kids-learn-to-work
people seem to miss the point that fast foot is a moisture barrier
For a video on the issues with rising damp in footings; ua-cam.com/video/w6iiwvi1tx4/v-deo.html
Ricardo Granger
Ricardo Granger
@@FabFormIndustries FastFoot is a good product. I use it. I will keep on using it.
@@ridgerunner106 Thanks Cliff!
where is vibration for concrete....
He said they vibrated. Plus you can see kicking the bag.
Ridge Runner its important to vibrate if thay said lets show it:) kicking the bag its a poor method with unknown effect I suggest to take few peaces cubes during concrete casting for compression test just for sure.
PS. Nice method, fast and cheap
I love the way of working neat and clean. ...
good work guys!! You've done footing installation pretty well. I believe through watching that video there are plenty of lessons can be learn regarding footing construction.
If you want to have your foundation last 500 years, go for it. The rest of the house won't last. It will be torn down and filled in by then.
Your alternative?
Fuck that. Traditional footer is the way to go
I really like this product!
I've used it. it's grrreat like frosted flakes.
I like this very much ; no wood wastage ; good for uneven grade; water barrier ; good for Dyi like me
I looked at it in all detail and definitely I will start to use it. Especially in Florida will delay the drying out time (if you pour in the trench the sandy soil absorbs the water too fast). The smooth, neat surface does help a lot with the water drainage. I checked prices, cheaper than I expected. I just have to add maybe 10 percent more cement to account for the bulges (if I pour in the trench no need to do that).
it figures as a square footing. I've done it. Also the bag keeps water from leaving too fast. The slower it cures, the stronger it is.
Think you guys have missed the point here, we are talking about stopping rising water through the concrete foundations.
I am about to construct a concrete bunker (house) here in Brazil, we viewed endless new build houses many with severe water damage from water rising up through the foundations.
Most concrete bunkers here are rendered, looking around one house just 6 months old the rendering was falling off in addition water damage on most of the interior walls.
So i do not wish to chuck my concrete sponge into a pool of water !
It's time for a new video :)
You know they invented 1x8 or 1x10 boards and 16s for concrete nails.. there is a crew of 4 people total on my team and we have finished over 15 total houses last month... that’s building the footings and then the wall the day after.
Fastfoot® is used in conjunction with a perimeter drain to deal with moisture. Big O will only drain water away from the footing. Only a vapor barrier will prevent the footing from wicking moisture into the building. As for a 4 hour construction on these footings, with steps and steel; that must be one hell of a large crew.
Alright...the quickest and easiest way to do a conventional footing...that I know of. Lay out footing...form with 12" boards...hold from spreading with metal brackets that go over the top (if you dont have brackets 2X4s nailed on top with banding underneath will do)...put grade nails in with laser...chalk lines from nail to nail and put the rest of the nails in...pour.
I like how the only safety gear anybody wears is their boots -- in a PROMOTIONAL VIDEO! Those two kids are going to grow up doing the safety squint and will only be able to count to 9-1/2 on their fingers thinking that those practices are okay.
The brackets im talking about have 8" legs on them and are shaped in a upside down U.They are made of steel so they obviously wont break and the legs hold the boards from bowing or moving.Also,if you are worried about your basement becoming damp you just put insulation down before you pour the floor.Obviously there are more ways than one to skin a cat and if you were pouring just one foundation you could do it multiple ways,but for a quick- building and level footing this is the way to do it.
Having just poured my own footers using 2x12 planks, I see no advantage to this fabric method. You still have to level a board at the top, so why not just use a 2x12?
Carry a 20' 2x12 and a 20' 2x4 and get back to me.
@@ridgerunner106 ; Exactly. Work smarter not harder.
@@jimhabsfan Informed plenty in my life. The fabric situation was unbelievably easy. You have a brick ledge if you want bricks. Dig a trench and sleeve under if you want. Easy to work with. Never had a blow out. Just nailed with Plex Cap felt tacks, worked excellent. I see no wrongs and a whole lot of rights about this product. Plus, no worries about rain caving in your ditches.
I have formed*. Dang spell check.
Paid (tax included) close to 8 $ for just one 2x4x8 in St.Pete’s. Imagine the price of a 2x12 of even a longer length !!!
I work for a foundation company and we reuse the boards so it doesnt matter if we buy 1 1/2" X12" boards. And the brackets are reusable also. So I guess if you are doing job after job this way is the most efficient.
Ugh!
how many footings do you guys do a day 1 hahaha. this system sucks
Much appreciated Drunk Guy! Let hope (for the sake of homeowners everywhere) your footings turn out better than your grammar.
FabFormIndustries you know it buddy we pour our footings nice and flat (and quicker than your clown system)
FabFormIndustries im a footing guy not a grammer Nazi stupid clown
+_A _Drunk_Guy You sound like a dunk a hole.
Thank you for this post.
it's good stuff. I have used.
Why not build a conventional footing and line the inside with the fabric or Tyvek???
Go for it.
I thought footings were supposed to be 42, atleast in michigan they have too
I used plastic under the footings and the electrical inspector wouldn't pass the ground wire that I had fastened to the rebar in the footings, he said the ground wouldn't work with the plastic under the footings, I wonder if this stuff can be used with the ground
Hi Dave. In regards to Ufer Rods with Fastfoot®,
fab-form.com/fastfoot/fastfootFiles/electricalEngineeringLetterUferRod.pdf
sure looked to me that the plastic under the boards was bulging due to the weight of the concrete. Not sure how that can be good
All that's critical is the top surface yes it's going to have a bulge shaped side buried under feet of dirt when done that's great that you can walk around and kick the bulge as it's poured to get the air pockets packed my hat is off to the person that came up with this system it's truly brilliant and a huge time and materials saver, huge : )
RP Trucker clearly fails to understand the purpose of the product.
No key???
Is it actually much faster? Still gotta do layout, steaks, and forms. I guess it saves on form material and heavy lifting
Yes attaching Fastfoot to your lumber is an extra step. But it greatly reduces the amount of wood you need to purchase, move into the hole, cut, and dispose of . Plus it conforms to crappy excavation which often eat up more wood. And stripping is incredibly fast as concete does not stick to Fastfoot.
Yikes.
Not to mention stripping any forms with screws in them is an exercise in insanity.
Hi, would please let me know, How much was this fabrick per square yard? and where do you buy it from? Thank you!!
+Asm Zunaid Fastfoot is roughly $1.80 Square yard. Most footings can be formed for roughly $1/lineal foot. We have a list of dealers here; fab-form.com/dealer.php
Or you can contact us direct 1-888-303-3278 info@fab-form.com
not bad, was half expecting the fabric to rip off the boards from the weight of the concrete. thought this strip foundation seems to be only 8" deep ?
Yes it is a strong material, and has improved since this project from 10 years ago. Here are pads up to 4' deep; fab-form.com/fastfootCom/kitimat.php
You would still need a set of footings to disperse the load of the home...
2 man very normal in our area 100' per hr +-
This is ridiculously stupid.
No keyway, I never seen so many guys on a footer before . That size footer should of taken two guys to layout and pour .
It's a father and his two sons building their own home...
Too complicated
so is life....
One word......poly
You can line your footings with poly 100%. And if you are not using Fastfoot we would highly encourage you to do so. Poly however will not be able to form concrete by itself. You will still need to use 2x8's to form, or it will stretch when vibrated and fail.
I like his wife's voice
We use form a drain for footings, we can set and pour a house a day, and my footing foreman has done 3 a day for a week straight, This saves any digging in of tile other than sump pit. U could use 6 mil visqueen in the same fashion, We dont hold our forms out of the ground like that we set the laser as close to ground as possible and then hand dig out a few inches and pour. That stair step up to the garage is hilarious, u only need to return to garage and then bump from 8 to 4. But whatever floats your boat, if u think homeowners can do this I want to make videos of the inspector failing them and the laughter between them back at the office
If you can dig a trench to pour your footings go ahead. Alot of places in the world will not accept this. This job was completed by a Father and his two sons. Form-a-drain is not a good product, as no drain can ever be effective if it is level, which your footings must be. Never has there been an issue with inspectors, as they are checking to make sure footings are in the right position, with adequate steel according to local codes.
I don't think u understand how form a drain works. It ties to perf tile then runs to sump pit. Way more effective than regular tile around footings. Your systems a nice idea but completely unnecessary. I've done thousands of houses and never an issue. But to each his own
dip 5ftwall fitting
Are you projecting that it saves time (with a trained crew) compared to traditional methods?
How does it compare on cost to traditional plywood method?
On the setup it takes slightly longer as you have the step of stapling the fabric to the screed boards. But the savings come into play when you have deeper footings, or uneven excavations. If your excavation drops 4" in some places, simply let the bag out. No more shoveling soil, or putting in extra screed boards. Also using Fastfoot on steps is a huge time saver. Stripping is alot quicker too as concrete never touches the lumber, and all lumber is clean after the pour. For most footings you are looking at $1/lineal foot. This is usually equal to the difference in price between a 2x4" and a 2x10". You can see huge time savings on this grade beam; ua-cam.com/video/AzI_CmEavvA/v-deo.html
I used it in hot climate where i have to prevent rapid drying of the concrete.
Is this depth sufficient for footing? What do we do in case of isolated footing?
Widths/depths of footings will be determined by the engineer on the project Sunil. I am unsure what you mean regarding an "isolated footing".
I think he meant that the membrane acts as an insulator to the ground. In my opinion there is no issue using this products vs. Getting a good ground. Two 6 ft copper grounding bars are less than 20 dollars !
Zidanje. Potporni. Zif
Would 6 mil plastic linining the bottom serve the same purpose as a vapor barrier?
Yes of course, but you will want to line the sides as well. It should be part of the code that all footings be lined with a damp proof membrane. Fastfoot is a woven poly that allows it to actually form the concrete as well. This means you need less lumber to be shipped to the site, as opposed to just wrapping in poly.
@@FabFormIndustries do you remove the 2x4 after concrete has cured that the fabric is stapled to
Lol at least take your dip out for the video bud!
No mames
Best damn idea I have seen in a long time …. UN REAL …..
thats how its done over Alabama!
I guess!
That's not how it's done in Alabama. It is a nice system if your not reusing form boarding.
what a waste of time and money. could build this footing in 1/2 the time with planks,strapping and wire.
I use a back ho and use the terrain to hold the concrete!! This is pure rip off bullshit!!!
Thanks Alex!!! It sounds like the area you build in allows for trenched footings. For everywhere else in the world; where a drain pipe is required, Fastfoot® makes allot of sense.
Alex wishes to be a general, too bad, he will be a commoner for the rest of his life.
@@anonymousbyproxy8250 Why are you insulting me ? You don't know what factions and societies I belong to .You must be very stupid! Your just pissed off we called out you Fake Rip Off Product!
@@GeneralAlex4 General Alexander, i really did not realize you are indeed a General !!! I humbly do apologize for insulting u and ask for forgiveness !!! Private Vasîle
@@anonymousbyproxy8250 Thank you Mr. Troll!
خوبه است
Alot of concrete wasted..(where it bubbles out) Thats $$$. Plus the extra excavating and forming... Plywood forms can be re-used time and time again. And whats the height limit? Why not just use 40mil poly? Sloth-foot
it's amazing
Интересная идея! Молодцы!
And is not expensive. The final result is a very smooth, net surface that improves the lateral gravitational water drainage.
Man I lol'd...hard XD especially love 0:47 when hes using an axe to hammer a steak in right next to his kids head
If you you have a problem with that, perhaps you should have an office job.
too much "work" for such a simple job...using that type of 'new product'. !
No, it's a heckuva lot easier. You ain't got to worry about rain or anything. I've used it. Will continue to use it.
@orbiteq19 with typical wood footings, they are afraid to vibrate as the concrete can continue to pour out the bottom of the screed boards. On this job they did vibrate without any issues. Also, as you can see in the video, they can kick the Fastfoot® to consolidate the concrete.
Amateurs watching this would think that a footing poured with 2x12s, strapping and banding is something of a miracle. This seems like an insane amount of work for something that could take one guy a few hours to do.
One guy a few hours to do ?!? Did u ever nailed two boards together ?!?
A salesman's gimmick...
Not true. Use it, it’s a good product !!!
this is the worst structural design ive ever seen
what's wrong with it?
fail rebar design
Rob Bravo the step to me would be the failing point.
Looks like a lot of work. I think I'll use Form-A-Drain instead.
0:48 yey no safety glasses or hard hat on the kid.
why turn a simple job into rocket science
Love this part of building!
Wow...homeowner special. I would be out of business if I "wasted" this much time doing the footers. As for dryer..?!?!? Come on isolating just the footers will do little. A good perimeter drain will accomplish much more for less. As for vibrating, if your wood forms "leak" or rack.....you did it wrong. This is a 4 hour footing, start to finish.
waste of time
No!
Wow!!!! That is agonizing to watch. So Slow
@@jimhabsfan Lol!
The fabric is silly, been doing crete for 33. Years,,,,,sillly. Boys,,,,,,,,,,,big job though,,,,,
Or I could just use Visqueen, right?
I wouldn't try visqueen it would be a way costly fail if it did Tyvek building wrap will stop a truck
Visqueen won't hold. You can push your finger through plastic. Not this stuff.
What a frickin joke.
these guys would never get a builders licence to build in Australia,
tony coppe show one of you videos to see how is done
otto skorzeny that made me die laughing
you could install a pwf foundation complete in the time spent on footings...
Five thousand sq ft basement and two stories on top is what I built. This was easier.
You can also make bad decisions like building a PWF.
ROFLMAO
what a waste of time and money !!!
Trump is going to deport you so you can go back and build mud huts in Mexico
In the same way that the Americans were taken from Syria. The Russians and Iranians.special forces found in a bunker have a bunch americans spies would sent to Siberia Russia concentration camps . Americans Trying to steal everything from poor countries
What a waste of time! Just dig the footing into the ground and level the top! Do this by shooting a grade as you pour or setting grade stakes in the footing or use your batter board line to measure down as you pour...either way, you simply level the top. You don't need forms of any kind for footings. In Florida, we just use the ground for a form. The only time I use a wood form (or any kind of form, for that matter), is if the terrain is un-level and I have steps in the footing. In this case, you just use a bulkhead for elevation changes but still use the earth for the form as the terrain slopes. You people "up north" waste so much time in your building methods.
As a person from "up north" I have seen some of the building methods used in the south...... I bet you do use dirt to form your footings. I bet if you had any plumbing to do you would just use whatever plastic pipe you could dig out of your shed, with the cheapest one step glue and maybe some duct tape if needed. If you had some framing to do you would build entirely of firring strips and sheetrock screws, Speaker wire for electrical outlets. and if you had a window to replace you would have to call the company that built your shitty little trailor 80 years ago to order one because home depot dosent carry rv windows. You people "down south" sure do know how to get R dun though dont you?!
runeski74
There are shoddy construction practices all over the country, tough guy, not just the south. But I get you. You think because it is the south, we are dumb and inferior to the north. Just like the southern vernacular, I find it humorous when someone with a hideous northern accent who absolutely butchers grammar and the English language, makes fun of the southern drawl.
The point I was making, is that time is money...and unnecessary practice is money. The earth is a perfectly suitable form for a footing that will never be seen again.
First off, Im no tough guy... I dont know what gave you that impression.
Secondly, Who are you to know what i "think" I never said people from the south are stupid, and I dont "think" that either... I never made fun of the way people from down south talk. I just quoted Larry the cable guys famous Git R Dun cause it seemed to fit.
If youre so sensitive about being from the south, then you shouldnt come online saying ignorant things like "You people "up north" waste so much time in your building methods." After all that really seems to be the point you were really trying to make.......right?
Sincerely
Tough Guy
runeski74
Did I mention the Earth is a perfectly suitable form for a footer?
In the area that this was formed, a trenched footing is not an option. Moisture is a huge concern. So a drain tile must be placed below the footing. A large reason why Fastfoot® makes so much sense.
waste of concrete, bit less straight forward to calculate amount needed as well.
3 words: Form-A-Drain. And there are other ways to take care of the moisture wicking from the bottom of footing.
A couple issues we have with Form-A-Drain;
1) Footings much be level. How successfull can a level drain be?
2) Water must reach the top of the footing before Form-A-Drain can move any water at all. At that point moisture has saturated the footing
3) At roughly $2.50 lineal foot (with corner brackets etc) it seems like a cash grab for Certainteed.
FabFormIndustries Fab: Water must reach top of footing... you're kidding right?
looks like twice the work as traditional boards.
No, it actually shortens the time per my calculations.
what a waste of concrete.
wood and labor is expensive, concrete is relatively cheap
When you use a laser, the person where the beam goes should wear laser protection goggles!
Could do same thing with house wrap if I wanted to waste same amount of time!
They have different tear/resistance/porosity parameters.