Chris: I took the dive and converted to Klipper, following your tutorials. All is working well, no problems so far. Needed your help on calculating the press adv # Well tuned Ender 3 Pro with upgrades changed over fairly easy, biggest challenge is getting software setup and learning the new Klipper programming. I found Visual Code frustrating at times, all those errors for no reason etc. None of that happens in Klipper. Thank you for everything ! Also big thanks to all who comment here, very valuable for me to read through everything! Best Wishes to All over the holiday season !!
Thank you for this series, Chris. I'm really enjoying the klipper series on the Ender 3 V2. It's given me the inspiration I need to bite the bullet and give klipper a try on my Ender 3 V2 over the festive holidays. You make it seem so easy and explain everything in such a way that it's very understandable and easy to follow along. This is coming from someone who's never used klipper before as it always seemed tedious and difficult to set up and get going. After watching this series, I'm definitely giving this a try. There are a couple of things I would also like to see in the series. The first would be extruder calibration on the stock hotend. I've seen people say it's different or difficult to set up compared to Marlin and can easily be messed up. Secondly, input shaping to achieve higher printing speeds. I'm still unclear as to where to put the adxl exactly on the Ender 3 V2, and if you need one or two sensors, one for X and one for Y or use one for both. I do not have an RPi to connect the sensor to and will be running klipper on an old laptop I have, so I'm hoping I can use one of my spare ESP32's for this. Ultimately, it would be great to know the placement and configuration for the adxl. Other than that, fantastic video series and keep up the fantastic work, Chris 👏
Thank you! Glad this is helping. For sure, I am working on input shaping now. There is SO much to explain there. It is taking a while. I will check into extruder calibration as well.
With these Klipper tutorials my V2 is printing better than ever. Thank you Chris. I would like to see how Klipper deals with Dual Z Axis sometime in a future vider. Thanks!
I would also, I have Klipper running with 3 Z axis and doing bed tramming on my Rat Rigs. I have a Ender 5 Plus which I want to install my spare Octopus plus board on, just don;'t know if it will benefit.
Thank you for showing me the way. You made this process easy as apple pie for me. Waiting for my print to finish so I can complete the calculation and adjust my printer.cfg
@@ChrisRiley Yeah man. This was the key I needed to actually FULLY dial in my Ender 5S1 and ALSO get my SOVOL SV06+ running better than the Prusa which it's a clone of. As in getting PLA quality for detailed bobble-heads but printing them out of PETG at a speed of 55-115mm/s on the Ender5 dialed in.
This is one of the reasons Orca is such a good slicer, with all the built in calibration tools it makes it so easy to tune this stuff. You did a good job explaining though. On the filaments I use all the time I am tuning to per color. 👌
Loving the kipper series and it’s inspired me to finally try kipper on one of my printers. Would love your take on the start print macros. I’m seeing some weird behaviours with initial layer temperatures being correctly applied until the bed mesh completes then they change to defaults. Just can’t see what’s telling it to change following the bed levelling. Perhaps one of your videos might point out the obvious to me 😆. Keep up the good work sir!
Thanks for explaining the different increment values of the pressure advance while the test was running. I was seeing that and thinking I had entered something incorrectly. Other videos I've watched failed to mention that fact.
thanks Chris, I have run the advance pressure calibration before with not much success; obviously I did not have all the settings you identified. So glad you too use prusaslicer.
Hi Chris great videos as usual ;) only klipper video im missing now is how to calibrate your extruder since Klipper is alot diffrent then marlin for this. Any of those comming up? keep up the good work man :)
Hi Chris, great series on Klipper. So.. I have a question. After finding out the Pressure Advance value and put into the klipper's printer.cfg. How do we use it with all the STL files? Do we use it with the new slicer settings or any slicer settings?
Thank you for this tutorial, calculation for my ender 3 PA is wrong. I got same result as your print, it was in the mid but i only calculate the bottom part of the mid so my calculation were wrong. Now i have to do it again but after watching this i think it will work out great.
Chris will you be adding another video with Klipper but doing the Resonance Compensation with and without accelerometer? I would love to see this video and believe this is all part of why people want to upgrade to Klipper for faster high quality prints. Again love your channel and your videos keep it up!!!
Do you leave the slicer settings you change for future prints... or change back after this test? I'm really new to Klipper (using a sonic pad)....and not sure on Prusa Slicer settings once all calibrations are done. Any assistance is appreciated. :)
@@ChrisRiley This is one reason I use Prusa, when they do an upgrade it doesn't seem to break anything. I will admit I never had any problems with S3D upgrades. Woops there were none.
what do you put in for Gcode flavor on prusaslicer if your using klipper SW? i bought the creality sonic pad and there no option for klipper for the Gcode flavor! does it matter if t stays marlin or should i pick something else?
Hello! Very new to 3d printing and am following tuning guides. Ive noticed that when i printed mine out (pressure advanced off) Only one corner seems to be janky while the other 3 are smooth so im unsure how or where im supposed to measure from? If that makes sense
@Chris Riley I mad maxed my old biqu b1. Into a dual belts Z and all mgn12 rails and dual y and x steppers on a btt octopus main board. I am currently using an h2 v2s dd hotend setup with a beacon scanner 😆. Printer cost 250$ Mods cost around 500$. Using it to design and build a .5 x .5m x 1.5m core-xy setup with a/c servos and tool head swapping. Custom controllers are all built around Klipper and some extra custom functions. Also, the print heads are connected to something similar to ERCF feeder, but it has 48 in and 6 out. I have this built and working on my printer for testing. The frame will have spots for 6 tool heads. My goal is a large printer on network with the ability to pull from an entire wall of filaments and minimized purging required. I have the electronics worked out, just working on the frame design. Mostly laser cut sheet steel welded. Built more like industrial cnc than Hobby Printer at almost 800lbs with almost 6hp driving the gantry around with 25mm wide belts. And 3 ball screws on the Z axis. Large mains powered multiple zone pei build plate. Precision ground flat. Uses revo nozzles on a custom automated nozzle changing system on the fly.
It is somewhat filament dependent. I would suggest you dial each type in. PLA is going to be much different than PETG, TPU I would probably suggest just turning it off.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks. I suspected as much, but I'm still learning. I'm currently extremely frustrated trying to get 1st layer to stick on my Ender5+ using Klipper and PETG. I thought I would like Klipper, but it's a lot more frustrating than the stock firmware. Maybe I just need to give it more time. At 67 my patience for long learning curves has diminished some (hopefully not too much). Still, it's hats off to people like you who put in the work to do these videos to educate us all.
@@ExtantFrodo2 You must have your bed very level, I use a bit of glue stick on the surface. Print the 1st layer at say 30 mm or slower till you get it to stick.. No cooling on 1st layer helps, compressing that 1st layer helps, ( setting the bed ) etc.
@@ChrisRiley Yeah, I'm using Klipper with pressure advance and input shaper. I originally did the input shaper using the accelerometer method about a year ago, but found I got better results when using square tower. I started recalibrating things recently after switching to a .6 CHT nozzle, and to say the test went poorly is an understatement. I found (for me) the best way to dial it in was to start printing the tower using my normal print speeds and settings, and then tweaking the PA and Smoothing values on the fly using Fluidd. Ended up getting dialed in at .068s for PA and .035s for Smoothing. If someone else is looking to follow my "on-the-fly" tuning suggestion, look at how your print compares to values that are too high, and too low. I noticed off the bat the my ending corner gap was HUGE, which meant the value was too high. Cut the value in half, and then did half that value high/lower (and then half that... then half that...) to get dialed in. Using the arrow keys in Fluidd also helped rather than having to type in numbers. After I got the sharp corners for the PA value, I noticed I'd have ripples after the corner if my smoothing values were too high. So, I just repeated the "raise/lower by half the change" procedure (similar to how Klipper does it for probe z-offset calibration where it halves the change each time) to get rid of the ripples after corners. Hoping with the new values my seams will be a little tighter.
That's the easiest place to make the updates. if it's not there you can create it. github.com/guysoft/OctoPi/blob/devel/src/modules/octopi/filesystem/boot/octopi.txt
Check to make sure of those slicer settings Chris mentioned, that was a hang up for me as well. Also make sure your max accelerations in your cfg are greater than that of your slicer so there aren’t any slow downs or restrictions during the print.
if i set all speed at 100 , i cant complete the print, after a while , it loses the binding between layers, looks like the extruder is strugling , the height of the print reaches 15mm , then it looks like its not extruding . I am runing an ender3 pro , all metal hotend bowden, any ideas.?,
Yes, PA value is per filament (as Chris mentioned on the video), and ideally, your slicer should set the PA value when the print starts (as it knows what filament you are printing with)
Not necessarily. I slice using Prusa 2.5 and set for my smallest bed size. I have no specific printer specs, but rather let each printer use its settings. My Start code = START_PRINT, the end code = END_PRINT. each printer can have a specific macro for each and be different than the others. I'm able to print almost everything on my Ender 5 Plus, or my Rat Rig 400 or 500 using the same g-code. I have also used START_PRINT_PLA or START_PRINT_PETG
I tried adding pressure advance in my extruder config file I keep getting an error saying "Option 'pressure_advanced' is not valid in section 'extruder'" and yet I can manually set it on my dashboard, but the value will not save. I am using mainsail. Any ideas if they changed something in the new versions of Klipper. I have only been using Klipper for 2 months.
I got 16, close to yours, you can if you wish turn it up and print a small test plaet. You may hear the printer making noises as it changes direction, if too high a setting. That is what I noticed, at apres advance of around 2. At my .32 it's silky smooth.
Chris: I took the dive and converted to Klipper, following your tutorials.
All is working well, no problems so far.
Needed your help on calculating the press adv #
Well tuned Ender 3 Pro with upgrades changed over fairly easy, biggest challenge is getting software setup and learning the new Klipper programming.
I found Visual Code frustrating at times, all those errors for no reason etc.
None of that happens in Klipper.
Thank you for everything !
Also big thanks to all who comment here, very valuable for me to read through everything!
Best Wishes to All over the holiday season !!
Awesome, glad everything is working out with Klipper!
this tutorial make me understand what pressure advance can make to my prints! Thanks Chris!
That's great to hear, thanks!
Thank you for this series, Chris. I'm really enjoying the klipper series on the Ender 3 V2.
It's given me the inspiration I need to bite the bullet and give klipper a try on my Ender 3 V2 over the festive holidays.
You make it seem so easy and explain everything in such a way that it's very understandable and easy to follow along. This is coming from someone who's never used klipper before as it always seemed tedious and difficult to set up and get going. After watching this series, I'm definitely giving this a try.
There are a couple of things I would also like to see in the series. The first would be extruder calibration on the stock hotend. I've seen people say it's different or difficult to set up compared to Marlin and can easily be messed up.
Secondly, input shaping to achieve higher printing speeds. I'm still unclear as to where to put the adxl exactly on the Ender 3 V2, and if you need one or two sensors, one for X and one for Y or use one for both. I do not have an RPi to connect the sensor to and will be running klipper on an old laptop I have, so I'm hoping I can use one of my spare ESP32's for this. Ultimately, it would be great to know the placement and configuration for the adxl.
Other than that, fantastic video series and keep up the fantastic work, Chris 👏
Thank you! Glad this is helping. For sure, I am working on input shaping now. There is SO much to explain there. It is taking a while. I will check into extruder calibration as well.
With these Klipper tutorials my V2 is printing better than ever. Thank you Chris. I would like to see how Klipper deals with Dual Z Axis sometime in a future vider. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
I would also, I have Klipper running with 3 Z axis and doing bed tramming on my Rat Rigs. I have a Ender 5 Plus which I want to install my spare Octopus plus board on, just don;'t know if it will benefit.
Thank you for showing me the way. You made this process easy as apple pie for me. Waiting for my print to finish so I can complete the calculation and adjust my printer.cfg
Glad I could help!
@@ChrisRiley Yeah man. This was the key I needed to actually FULLY dial in my Ender 5S1 and ALSO get my SOVOL SV06+ running better than the Prusa which it's a clone of. As in getting PLA quality for detailed bobble-heads but printing them out of PETG at a speed of 55-115mm/s on the Ender5 dialed in.
This is one of the reasons Orca is such a good slicer, with all the built in calibration tools it makes it so easy to tune this stuff. You did a good job explaining though. On the filaments I use all the time I am tuning to per color. 👌
Thank s for your comment!
Once again saving my butt man. you rock with these videos!
Thanks for watching!
Loving the kipper series and it’s inspired me to finally try kipper on one of my printers. Would love your take on the start print macros. I’m seeing some weird behaviours with initial layer temperatures being correctly applied until the bed mesh completes then they change to defaults. Just can’t see what’s telling it to change following the bed levelling. Perhaps one of your videos might point out the obvious to me 😆. Keep up the good work sir!
Thanks! That's a strange one, did you see this one? Maybe it helps? ua-cam.com/video/CMmevBC3DuU/v-deo.html
Thanks for explaining the different increment values of the pressure advance while the test was running. I was seeing that and thinking I had entered something incorrectly. Other videos I've watched failed to mention that fact.
Glad it was helpful!
A great comprehensive guide, thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for the informative video, it was a great help!
I'm happy to help! Thanks
thanks Chris, I have run the advance pressure calibration before with not much success; obviously I did not have all the settings you identified. So glad you too use prusaslicer.
Thank you, I'm glad I could help!
Thanks Chris! Another great klipper tutorial
Thanks for watching!
Hi Chris great videos as usual ;) only klipper video im missing now is how to calibrate your extruder since Klipper is alot diffrent then marlin for this. Any of those comming up? keep up the good work man :)
Thanks, I'll look into it.
Hi Chris, great series on Klipper. So.. I have a question. After finding out the Pressure Advance value and put into the klipper's printer.cfg. How do we use it with all the STL files? Do we use it with the new slicer settings or any slicer settings?
Thank you! You can use this in the slicer in the gcode settings. SET_PRESSURE_ADVANCE ADVANCE=your value
Great video and no recompiling to make the change .
Thanks Dave, this is true. ;)
Thank you for this tutorial, calculation for my ender 3 PA is wrong. I got same result as your print, it was in the mid but i only calculate the bottom part of the mid so my calculation were wrong. Now i have to do it again but after watching this i think it will work out great.
Excellent! Thanks for watching!
Awsome work as usual
Thank you so much 😀
Chris will you be adding another video with Klipper but doing the Resonance Compensation with and without accelerometer? I would love to see this video and believe this is all part of why people want to upgrade to Klipper for faster high quality prints. Again love your channel and your videos keep it up!!!
I'll see what I can do. Thanks for watching
@@ChrisRiley that would be awesome man thanks!!!!
Super helpful. Thanks!!
Happy to help! Thanks
Thank you! awesome guide man
Glad it helped!
Do you leave the slicer settings you change for future prints... or change back after this test? I'm really new to Klipper (using a sonic pad)....and not sure on Prusa Slicer settings once all calibrations are done. Any assistance is appreciated. :)
Yes, you would only us these for the test and go back to your stock ones after.
To sharpen up the corners and get rid of the fat corners should I combine Pressure Advance with Jerk settings?
Tweaking jerk could help as well, but that's actual movement, I tend to tune movement, then start to tune software or extrusion.
Chris, I noticed you are using Prusa 2.4 have your tried 2.5 yet?
I have it on 2 of the 3 machines, still in the update process. 2.5 really isn't a lot different, but there are a few more features I need to try.
@@ChrisRiley This is one reason I use Prusa, when they do an upgrade it doesn't seem to break anything. I will admit I never had any problems with S3D upgrades. Woops there were none.
Great video!
Thanks!
what do you put in for Gcode flavor on prusaslicer if your using klipper SW? i bought the creality sonic pad and there no option for klipper for the Gcode flavor! does it matter if t stays marlin or should i pick something else?
Because of how it handles the start and end macros, it's really shouldn't matter what flavor you set it at. Marlin should be good.
Díky!
Nemáš zač. Děkuji!
Hello! Very new to 3d printing and am following tuning guides. Ive noticed that when i printed mine out (pressure advanced off) Only one corner seems to be janky while the other 3 are smooth so im unsure how or where im supposed to measure from? If that makes sense
Try moving the seam location on the print in the slicer.
Switch to Capricorn tubing and use the little clips on the ptc fittings, and it drops to under .15 witch is very good for bowden setup
Thanks!
@Chris Riley I mad maxed my old biqu b1.
Into a dual belts Z and all mgn12 rails and dual y and x steppers on a btt octopus main board. I am currently using an h2 v2s dd hotend setup with a beacon scanner 😆.
Printer cost 250$
Mods cost around 500$.
Using it to design and build a .5 x .5m x 1.5m core-xy setup with a/c servos and tool head swapping.
Custom controllers are all built around Klipper and some extra custom functions.
Also, the print heads are connected to something similar to ERCF feeder, but it has 48 in and 6 out. I have this built and working on my printer for testing.
The frame will have spots for 6 tool heads.
My goal is a large printer on network with the ability to pull from an entire wall of filaments and minimized purging required.
I have the electronics worked out, just working on the frame design. Mostly laser cut sheet steel welded. Built more like industrial cnc than Hobby Printer at almost 800lbs with almost 6hp driving the gantry around with 25mm wide belts.
And 3 ball screws on the Z axis. Large mains powered multiple zone pei build plate. Precision ground flat.
Uses revo nozzles on a custom automated nozzle changing system on the fly.
@@ZoeyR86 Wow, this is one crazy setup. I would love to see a video of this thing in action!
Would you only need one setting for all different filament types or is it not filament dependant?
It is somewhat filament dependent. I would suggest you dial each type in. PLA is going to be much different than PETG, TPU I would probably suggest just turning it off.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks. I suspected as much, but I'm still learning. I'm currently extremely frustrated trying to get 1st layer to stick on my Ender5+ using Klipper and PETG. I thought I would like Klipper, but it's a lot more frustrating than the stock firmware. Maybe I just need to give it more time. At 67 my patience for long learning curves has diminished some (hopefully not too much). Still, it's hats off to people like you who put in the work to do these videos to educate us all.
@@ExtantFrodo2 You must have your bed very level, I use a bit of glue stick on the surface.
Print the 1st layer at say 30 mm or slower till you get it to stick..
No cooling on 1st layer helps, compressing that 1st layer helps, ( setting the bed ) etc.
Once I find my Pressure advance VALUE, do I leave Square Corner Velocity at 1 or back to the default 5?
Leave it at the default of 5, it will do the rest.
Chris: Have you found any settings to help fill in the seam gap at the back of the print as shown at 8:51 ?
I've found with Klipper it depends if you are using input shaper. If you are it's a very delicate balance of pressure advance and smoothing.
@@ChrisRiley Yeah, I'm using Klipper with pressure advance and input shaper. I originally did the input shaper using the accelerometer method about a year ago, but found I got better results when using square tower. I started recalibrating things recently after switching to a .6 CHT nozzle, and to say the test went poorly is an understatement. I found (for me) the best way to dial it in was to start printing the tower using my normal print speeds and settings, and then tweaking the PA and Smoothing values on the fly using Fluidd. Ended up getting dialed in at .068s for PA and .035s for Smoothing.
If someone else is looking to follow my "on-the-fly" tuning suggestion, look at how your print compares to values that are too high, and too low. I noticed off the bat the my ending corner gap was HUGE, which meant the value was too high. Cut the value in half, and then did half that value high/lower (and then half that... then half that...) to get dialed in. Using the arrow keys in Fluidd also helped rather than having to type in numbers. After I got the sharp corners for the PA value, I noticed I'd have ripples after the corner if my smoothing values were too high. So, I just repeated the "raise/lower by half the change" procedure (similar to how Klipper does it for probe z-offset calibration where it halves the change each time) to get rid of the ripples after corners.
Hoping with the new values my seams will be a little tighter.
They must have changed the math since my version of Klipper. I had to make a spreadsheet to wade thru it.
I was surprised at how easy the math was now.
It's the new math, just have to know which gender
hi I have a question about octoprint on windows. How can I increase the quality of my camera from 640X480 at octolapse? The octopi.txt does not exist
That's the easiest place to make the updates. if it's not there you can create it. github.com/guysoft/OctoPi/blob/devel/src/modules/octopi/filesystem/boot/octopi.txt
@Chris Riley hello thanks, I don't have the boot folder. in which folder does it have to be?
@@Joshua-schiergens3D-Druck Oh, you said Windows, you would have to do that in Yawcam, it would control your windows cam.
@@ChrisRiley thanks it work. 😀
Hello thanks for this tuto but have you checked the speed overview because in 0.3 it does not reach 100mm/s but just 60 / 70 mm/s
Thanks, I'll look into it
@@ChrisRiley Sorry it's beacause i have MVS too slow at 8mm3/s i have put 15mm3/s and it's ok
Niiiiice🤙🤙🤙‼️‼️
Thanks!
Tx Chris. I tried everything on my Ender 5 plus, stock. No difference between 0.00 up to 1.00. What am I doing wrong?
Check to make sure of those slicer settings Chris mentioned, that was a hang up for me as well. Also make sure your max accelerations in your cfg are greater than that of your slicer so there aren’t any slow downs or restrictions during the print.
🙂👍
@@spanny52 Thank you, will do.
Remember to save and restart Klipper, after config change. I noticed a big change when altering the press adv on Ender 3 Pro.
if i set all speed at 100 , i cant complete the print, after a while , it loses the binding between layers, looks like the extruder is strugling , the height of the print reaches 15mm , then it looks like its not extruding
. I am runing an ender3 pro , all metal hotend bowden, any ideas.?,
Does it have 2208 drivers? It could be a driver issue. There was a bug with 2208's.
@@ChrisRiley i will check thx
cant your share prusaslicer config your using
Sure! drive.google.com/file/d/1O2_3oJyoJcp1h3BN89D-3FgMjkUIlxXz/view?usp=sharing
Wouldn't it be better to put the PA value in your slicer's filament gcode?
Yes, PA value is per filament (as Chris mentioned on the video), and ideally, your slicer should set the PA value when the print starts (as it knows what filament you are printing with)
👍🙂
Not necessarily. I slice using Prusa 2.5 and set for my smallest bed size. I have no specific printer specs, but rather let each printer use its settings. My Start code = START_PRINT, the end code = END_PRINT. each printer can have a specific macro for each and be different than the others. I'm able to print almost everything on my Ender 5 Plus, or my Rat Rig 400 or 500 using the same g-code. I have also used START_PRINT_PLA or START_PRINT_PETG
Same video with Orca Slicer? Please
I'll see what I can do!
I tried adding pressure advance in my extruder config file I keep getting an error saying "Option 'pressure_advanced' is not valid in section 'extruder'" and yet I can manually set it on my dashboard, but the value will not save. I am using mainsail. Any ideas if they changed something in the new versions of Klipper. I have only been using Klipper for 2 months.
figured it out. Out of all the config its case sensitive changed it to Pressure_Advanced: it saved and no errors
Awesome! I'm glad you got it going!
is it normal that i got 10mm and you have 25 mm ? becasue that means that u have 0.5 pressure advance and i have 0.2 the diffrence seems huge
I got 16, close to yours, you can if you wish turn it up and print a small test plaet.
You may hear the printer making noises as it changes direction, if too high a setting.
That is what I noticed, at apres advance of around 2.
At my .32 it's silky smooth.
👍🙂