Interesting. I would finalise your toaster oven build with it upside down. As you said, heat rises, so it makes sense to me to have the delicate electronics below the heat. Great idea though
I did insulate the top portion more. At the peak of the burn out I used my infrared thermometer to check the temperature of all sides and the temp is no higher then 140F with the top being the lowest temp. I added the fan as the Solid State Relay was getting pretty warm and I had that fan laying around.
There's a good chance that the device didn't come calibrated or is calibrated to use a different thermister than what you're using. I know the little programmer I got for my DIY enclosure heater has a sequence you put it through to calibrate the temperature so it wouldn't be surprising if your device had one as well. If all else fails, you could put a separate thermometer you trust next to it's thermister to get a comparison.
Would I be able to keep my quartz triac heating elements when using this temperature controller (I wouldn’t need them to get hotter than their current capabilities).
I don't see why not, from a quick google search they look like they are just a resistive load. The solid state relay that hooks to that controller doesn't care about the load as long as its within the current rating and not a high inductive load.
Awesome video! What investment powder are you using? Also, what's your printing setup? I've tried casting using ApplyLabWorks cyan castable resin and I haven't gotten great results. I was also using R&R Advantage, but I was thinking about trying Plasticast since it's designed to handle the expansion of resins. Any advice?
I have only used Siraya Tech Cast, its inexpensive and I have had pretty good results. The investment I used in this video was Prestige Oro but I recently switched to Prestige Optima as its made for resin and Oro isn't. Cant really say much about the Prestige Optima yet as I only had one cast with it. As far as printing setup I was using a old resin printer but just upgraded to the Phrozen Sonic Mighty 8K. Best advice I have is follow the burn out process and mixing process as best you can. Thanks for watching!
Kudos to you ! I won't miss my rarely used toaster oven I guess LOL Google "burnout oven" and find few choices at jaw dropping cost. Then again you are buying a small kiln. But really $4000??? Was very surprised that you could reproduce any of the mesh like feature of your skull and thought it unlikely that filigree like structure could burnout without leaving residue and clogs. PVB or PLA? I gather that pre-heating the investment mold is key to good result, still I figured that you would need vents. Perhaps the plaster is somewhat porous. The density of brass versus aluminum must be a factor for gravity feed pours. Anyhow, I am trying to make a decent go at casting some sea mammals for aquatic diorama. I have a 250mm long dolphin as my first project. Even at this scale the pectoral and tail fins are extremely delicate and based on my results to date, are bound to be the lion's share of the challenge. They have to be perfect. I imagine me with my mig welder trying to re-attatch a broken flipper. Support structures will have to manually be applied rather than leaving it to Cura. Some 6061 T651 aluminum alloy scrap I have been holding might be useful for yielding a more durable model but eventually I am going to have to acquire some proper ingots of A380 ? or maybe even melt down cans. In Canada there are no suppliers of ingot that I am aware of that cater to the hobby or start up. U.S. supply is expensive and many just don't ship here period. Regards
You could pull the heating elements out at the beginning and replace with coiled elements. After my original elements burnt out I have since replaced them with the coiled elements I bought of of Amazon.
When burning out wax or PLA or resin from investment you need a really high heat to get rid of all the ash and you need to cure the investment. I have done casting with plaster of paris and used an old BBQ to burn it out but I wouldn't recommend it. You wont get good or consistent results, much better to burn out per a typical burn out schedule.
Tom I believe I was able to get about 20 burn outs before one of the elements kicked the bucket. I ordered some new wire elements on amazon for 20 bucks which was way more than enough for the lil toaster oven and those have been running good for the last 4 burn outs...I suspect they will last a fair bit longer then the originals as they are more suited to the temperatures.
@@RealProjectTube cool - good to know. I was thinking that using some steel wire to hold up the insulation may work - or would the heat degrade it? The way I am pricing it out even if I have to pay $25 for the toaster oven on Craigslist I could get this done for under $200...
@@IamTomzo The steel wire might last 1 or two burn outs. You just have to be careful the wire doesn't touch the heating elements as that would short them out . By the way if you keep your eye out on Craigslist you can find deals on Kilns you just have to be patient. Last one I got was for $100...they pop up for cheap every once in awhile.
Props to you, but you should probably disclaimer this. Somewhere there's a better idiot who's disabling a safety thermocouple to cook his toast faster....
If you guys see how I used to do it back in Cuba which is a communist country, Im talking about third world shit, I used to put the flask, which was just a copper pipe cut, on top of just and electric furnace with an aluminum pot on top, for 5 hours straight, and then cast in a centrifugal casting 😂
Thanks for watching! Should I do a recast even bigger?
So much information, great video. I will definitely be making my own
I feared for the electronic components when i saw you put it atop :)
I hope to see a perfect intricate cast soon !
With the added insulation and the fan it actually stays pretty cool on top, but we will see in the long term.
14:48 - Whoa, failed cast or not, that is some incredible detail.
Thanks
Interesting. I would finalise your toaster oven build with it upside down. As you said, heat rises, so it makes sense to me to have the delicate electronics below the heat. Great idea though
I did insulate the top portion more. At the peak of the burn out I used my infrared thermometer to check the temperature of all sides and the temp is no higher then 140F with the top being the lowest temp. I added the fan as the Solid State Relay was getting pretty warm and I had that fan laying around.
I was thinking the same thing.
I would do it to the side, then there's less worry about a failure resulting in destroyed electronics.
Would have been super awesome if you showed how you wired it up step-by-step
There's a good chance that the device didn't come calibrated or is calibrated to use a different thermister than what you're using. I know the little programmer I got for my DIY enclosure heater has a sequence you put it through to calibrate the temperature so it wouldn't be surprising if your device had one as well. If all else fails, you could put a separate thermometer you trust next to it's thermister to get a comparison.
Great project! I will certainly upgrade mi electric oven. What kind of plaster you use?
For the casting? I use Prestige Optima investment. You can get it off amazon, I left a link in the description.
Would I be able to keep my quartz triac heating elements when using this temperature controller (I wouldn’t need them to get hotter than their current capabilities).
I don't see why not, from a quick google search they look like they are just a resistive load. The solid state relay that hooks to that controller doesn't care about the load as long as its within the current rating and not a high inductive load.
Awesome video! What investment powder are you using? Also, what's your printing setup? I've tried casting using ApplyLabWorks cyan castable resin and I haven't gotten great results. I was also using R&R Advantage, but I was thinking about trying Plasticast since it's designed to handle the expansion of resins. Any advice?
I have only used Siraya Tech Cast, its inexpensive and I have had pretty good results. The investment I used in this video was Prestige Oro but I recently switched to Prestige Optima as its made for resin and Oro isn't. Cant really say much about the Prestige Optima yet as I only had one cast with it. As far as printing setup I was using a old resin printer but just upgraded to the Phrozen Sonic Mighty 8K. Best advice I have is follow the burn out process and mixing process as best you can. Thanks for watching!
Kudos to you ! I won't miss my rarely used toaster oven I guess LOL
Google "burnout oven" and find few choices at jaw dropping cost. Then again you are buying a small kiln.
But really $4000???
Was very surprised that you could reproduce any of the mesh like feature of your skull and thought it unlikely that filigree like structure could burnout without leaving residue and clogs. PVB or PLA?
I gather that pre-heating the investment mold is key to good result, still I figured that you would need vents. Perhaps the plaster is somewhat porous. The density of brass versus aluminum must be a factor for gravity feed pours. Anyhow, I am trying to make a decent go at casting some sea mammals for aquatic diorama. I have a 250mm long dolphin as my first project. Even at this scale the pectoral and tail fins are extremely delicate and based on my results to date, are bound to be the lion's share of the challenge. They have to be perfect. I imagine me with my mig welder trying to re-attatch a broken flipper. Support structures will have to manually be applied rather than leaving it to Cura.
Some 6061 T651 aluminum alloy scrap I have been holding might be useful for yielding a more durable model but eventually I am going to have to acquire some proper ingots of A380 ? or maybe even melt down cans. In Canada there are no suppliers of ingot that I am aware of that cater to the hobby or start up. U.S. supply is expensive and many just don't ship here period. Regards
Is there a way to run coils through it to avoid haveing to replace the heating element
You could pull the heating elements out at the beginning and replace with coiled elements. After my original elements burnt out I have
since replaced them with the coiled elements I bought of of Amazon.
Do we have to have a burning out kiln? But I don’t see anyone trying lost wax casting without kiln, can we just use torch to melt the wax and pour?
When burning out wax or PLA or resin from investment you need a really high heat to get rid of all the ash and you need to cure the investment. I have done casting with plaster of paris and used an old BBQ to burn it out but I wouldn't recommend it. You wont get good or consistent results, much better to burn out per a typical burn out schedule.
What type of plaster do you use? The one I used always cracked
amzn.to/3FntpOx
So how many burnouts has this toaster oven done so far? I want to do some lost PLA casting but the cost of the burnout kiln is a big impediment.
Tom I believe I was able to get about 20 burn outs before one of the elements kicked the bucket. I ordered some new wire elements on amazon for 20 bucks which was way more than enough for the lil toaster oven and those have been running good for the last 4 burn outs...I suspect they will last a fair bit longer then the originals as they are more suited to the temperatures.
@@RealProjectTube cool - good to know. I was thinking that using some steel wire to hold up the insulation may work - or would the heat degrade it? The way I am pricing it out even if I have to pay $25 for the toaster oven on Craigslist I could get this done for under $200...
@@IamTomzo The steel wire might last 1 or two burn outs. You just have to be careful the wire doesn't touch the heating elements as that would short them out . By the way if you keep your eye out on Craigslist you can find deals on Kilns you just have to be patient. Last one I got was for $100...they pop up for cheap every once in awhile.
You already spent enough money to buy a brand new burnout oven man!!! 😂😂😂
I bet that the PID will have melted down by now...?
na, its still hanging on but now I use it with the lid facing up so all the heat rises away from the PID.
but does it take all day?
It takes 12 hours per the instruction from the investment manufacturer....so pretty much all day. 😕
Props to you, but you should probably disclaimer this. Somewhere there's a better idiot who's disabling a safety thermocouple to cook his toast faster....
LOL Yeah your probably right!
When all said and done it’s worth your money to just buy a purpose built burnout oven.
Agreed 👍
If you guys see how I used to do it back in Cuba which is a communist country, Im talking about third world shit, I used to put the flask, which was just a copper pipe cut, on top of just and electric furnace with an aluminum pot on top, for 5 hours straight, and then cast in a centrifugal casting 😂