I actually something similar except I mounted my battery on a rear rack lmao. Not sure if that’s a great idea or not. I just don’t want that rack to snap off or some shiet. I also have bungee cords wrapped the battery in a way that it holds the battery on the rack. And another bungee to hold the battery in the case if the rack snaps off suddenly.
Thanks man! Rear rack should be fine! I only don't like that position because you already have all of the weight in the back with the motor, but aside from that it's an easy way to add a spot for the battery 👍Bungee cords should be fine for mounting, the stretchiness can quiet down rattles too.
Hello, what voltage of the battery did u assemble in series wiring connection? And how many ampere of each ? Name of battery also, to look at lazada.. thank u.. More power to your creative ideas.
Never would have imagined haha, I keep calling these 'friction' brakes but I think they are rim brakes, or 'caliper' brakes more specifically. I remember as a kid these did not work very well, probably because I was going down hills in the rain, but I can attest that they actually work surprisingly well. Maybe just because I'm bigger and can squeeze the levers so much more. Thanks for the suggestion I'll check out a hydro setup!
@@Chucklodown14 No problem! Thank you. A 15mm stretch is very small that is a little over a half an inch, but remember that is split between each side, so really a 1/4in per side, it's very small.
never use slime at 32+ mph. Your tire will have slight up down up down wobble. Ounces can turn to pounds when wheel spins at high speeds. Take a paper clip and string with small weight. tape string to surface and spin very fast then let go. the weight will rip tape off due to centrifugal force multiplication. Amount of slime = off balance weight.
no i use thick tubes liner cut so it does not off balance 360 and country tires my mtb has slime :p because it is nifty just not at high speeds. the bike i have now cruise at 56 mph. no slime :/@@hightech-lowlife
@@itwasrightthereinfrontofyou I have moved on from slime as it doesn't work as well as I'd like, now I use vinyl inserts. Although I've never had a problem with slime regarding hop/wobble/obtuse concentricity even at high speeds. I don't go very fast though on ebikes (20-30 max), most bicycle tires are not made to even go that fast, let alone double 👍 If I want to go really fast I have motorcycles for that.
I have a 52v 1800w motor rear with a 80cc engine on a electra cruiser frame called the red sonja. She is sturdy and cruises at 55 mph with HD bearings. She use to wobble with slime at 30-40mph. Safe vehicle as she is made of 100% German steel. The lining does work great...without it I feel naked. A standard bicycle rim is rated at speeds of 100 kmh. HD bearings double. UHD or Moto wheels triple and more. I pack my bearings with red grease as white or moly "fling" out at high speeds. Red Grease does not as it is the stickiest grease. I do things like this because i have my own shop and build whatever I want. I even build motorcycles. My current project is a ebike that has 96v 12000 watt. IDK what i want to really do with it. @@hightech-lowlife
LIPO or Lithium ION batteries? Did you have to wire them in a series? I heard LIPO is cheaper and more powerful, but more risk and a pain to charge separately.
@@hightech-lowlife Those are not Lipo Pack. They are "hoverboard" pack with 18650 cells. Generally they use very low quality cells. I use 3 tattu lipo packs 22.2v each in series. Look into those. They can discharge 300A+ without break a sweat
@@Full_Throttle_no_Brakes These packs (and others) that are 18650 cells are typically made from Lithium Polymer (LiPo), this has to do with the material chemistry of the battery. I know that these packs are LiPo, as most that contain 18650 cells are. Of course there are different grades available that can focus more on discharge rate (C) or high capacity (mAH). Also varying degrees of quality, these packs are shown to have Samsung cells. I took a look at those packs you use and I'm not sure if they have an onboard BMS for over and undervolt protection during charge or discharge. A lot of RC packs do not have BMS's built in because they have a separate speed controllers and chargers that will do that.
No E-break with the controller? And its a 3Kw kit. That kit most have been really cheap. I built an E BMX and I paid 250 dollars for the motor and controller. And its a similar looking motor to yours with a 40A controller.
Brilliant design and Engineered Technology
Thanks so much man!
Counter sink screws. They sit flush and drill it right and the screws will set flat with no problem with protruding screws.
👍🍻
Should have used a standard sta frame and fork. Cool bike by the way.
Thanks man! 🍻
I actually something similar except I mounted my battery on a rear rack lmao.
Not sure if that’s a great idea or not. I just don’t want that rack to snap off or some shiet.
I also have bungee cords wrapped the battery in a way that it holds the battery on the rack. And another bungee to hold the battery in the case if the rack snaps off suddenly.
Thanks man! Rear rack should be fine! I only don't like that position because you already have all of the weight in the back with the motor, but aside from that it's an easy way to add a spot for the battery 👍Bungee cords should be fine for mounting, the stretchiness can quiet down rattles too.
To enhance the breaks wear good sneakers.
Or just a ton of padding 😂
You are a lot like me determined
One can never give up 🍻
Punk Rock build.
Thanks man!!
Hello, what voltage of the battery did u assemble in series wiring connection? And how many ampere of each ?
Name of battery also, to look at lazada.. thank u..
More power to your creative ideas.
Please check my other video in this series where I go over the battery 👍 Thanks so much man!
Rear brake is your shoe on the tire
That's one way to do it 😂
Maybe if you had ONE battery pack instead of 6 battery packs you would get it to fit.
Next time 🕵♀
There are hydraulic rim breaks that are super powerful you can use those
Never would have imagined haha, I keep calling these 'friction' brakes but I think they are rim brakes, or 'caliper' brakes more specifically. I remember as a kid these did not work very well, probably because I was going down hills in the rain, but I can attest that they actually work surprisingly well. Maybe just because I'm bigger and can squeeze the levers so much more. Thanks for the suggestion I'll check out a hydro setup!
Go green slime
Already got them + the vinyl liners, totally done with flats!
if someone did this with a 1500watt kit on a 20 inch bmx would the wheel still not fit or would it fit without having to expand the frame?
You will need to stretch. BMX is 110mm dropouts, most kits are 135mm. Some front wheel kits are 110 but they are meant for the front wheel.
@@hightech-lowlife Okay, thanks for the advice, I love your videos!
@@Chucklodown14 No problem! Thank you.
A 15mm stretch is very small that is a little over a half an inch, but remember that is split between each side, so really a 1/4in per side, it's very small.
@@hightech-lowlife Thanks for your help (:
@@Chucklodown14 💯🍻
BMX brakes on a e-bike :D
FTW 🍻🍻
@@hightech-lowlife crazy man :P
never use slime at 32+ mph. Your tire will have slight up down up down wobble. Ounces can turn to pounds when wheel spins at high speeds. Take a paper clip and string with small weight. tape string to surface and spin very fast then let go. the weight will rip tape off due to centrifugal force multiplication. Amount of slime = off balance weight.
Do you ride with slime?
no i use thick tubes liner cut so it does not off balance 360 and country tires my mtb has slime :p because it is nifty just not at high speeds. the bike i have now cruise at 56 mph. no slime :/@@hightech-lowlife
@@itwasrightthereinfrontofyou I have moved on from slime as it doesn't work as well as I'd like, now I use vinyl inserts. Although I've never had a problem with slime regarding hop/wobble/obtuse concentricity even at high speeds. I don't go very fast though on ebikes (20-30 max), most bicycle tires are not made to even go that fast, let alone double 👍 If I want to go really fast I have motorcycles for that.
I have a 52v 1800w motor rear with a 80cc engine on a electra cruiser frame called the red sonja. She is sturdy and cruises at 55 mph with HD bearings. She use to wobble with slime at 30-40mph. Safe vehicle as she is made of 100% German steel. The lining does work great...without it I feel naked. A standard bicycle rim is rated at speeds of 100 kmh. HD bearings double. UHD or Moto wheels triple and more. I pack my bearings with red grease as white or moly "fling" out at high speeds. Red Grease does not as it is the stickiest grease. I do things like this because i have my own shop and build whatever I want. I even build motorcycles. My current project is a ebike that has 96v 12000 watt. IDK what i want to really do with it. @@hightech-lowlife
dude your channel has Hebrew. I study Ancient Hebrew. That is strange.@@hightech-lowlife
Dr Frankenstein :)
Thank you! 🙌
LIPO or Lithium ION batteries? Did you have to wire them in a series? I heard LIPO is cheaper and more powerful, but more risk and a pain to charge separately.
These are Lipo packs, actually both series and parallel, I'll explain more about this weird battery setup in the next video, thanks for watching!
@D A V I D Thank you so much for watching and for the feedback!
@@hightech-lowlife Those are not Lipo Pack. They are "hoverboard" pack with 18650 cells. Generally they use very low quality cells.
I use 3 tattu lipo packs 22.2v each in series. Look into those. They can discharge 300A+ without break a sweat
@@Full_Throttle_no_Brakes These packs (and others) that are 18650 cells are typically made from Lithium Polymer (LiPo), this has to do with the material chemistry of the battery. I know that these packs are LiPo, as most that contain 18650 cells are. Of course there are different grades available that can focus more on discharge rate (C) or high capacity (mAH). Also varying degrees of quality, these packs are shown to have Samsung cells.
I took a look at those packs you use and I'm not sure if they have an onboard BMS for over and undervolt protection during charge or discharge. A lot of RC packs do not have BMS's built in because they have a separate speed controllers and chargers that will do that.
No E-break with the controller? And its a 3Kw kit.
That kit most have been really cheap.
I built an E BMX and I paid 250 dollars for the motor and controller. And its a similar looking motor to yours with a 40A controller.
It was pretty cheap! 🤖
I guess you are running 72V? (36×2)×3
Exactly that config, yes!
tengo una parecida, lo unico los radios se me rompen o doblan y aflojan, ahora montare la cuarta rueda con radios 8g🙂
¡Oh, guau, debes haber estado empujando una tonelada de poder! Todavía no he roto ningún radio 🤞