Great install Deryk! It is coming along very well. I really enjoyed the in-depth decoder install. The sound from the Loksound is fantastic, hopefully with the new speaker everything will fit perfectly. Looking forward to seeing the extra details added. Thanks for sharing! Ethan
Sorry I missed this one.Great Job Deryk.Now I know what to expect when I get one of these Locomotives.No problems with the speaker at all for 28mm.Looks like you had a fairly easy job on this one.Most of Walthers Train Lines do have considerable room for conversions.Very neatly done conversion job.Thanks for sharing.Love the led job you did.
Thanks! And good luck with your install! I haven't added sound to any of my Bachmann SD40-2's yet, but finding a place for the speaker is going to be the hardest part. Most people have to mill some of the frame to make room. Let us know how it goes! Deryk
Nice video! The f40ph is run with the prime mover operating in "run 8" so that the other generator can operate the air conditioning, lights, and other electric appliances in my area. Was a common diesel as early as 1990. I have the video!
Thanks! Yes I loved the F40PH's They were very common whenever I was a youngster. Which is why I modeled this. And always love the HEP mode on those. 'SCREAMERS'
I have one. Mine is not dcc ready and has a bizarre hybrid paint scheme that I have only seen on cabbages. How many expensive sound decoders are you going to destroy before you get a soldering iron with a grounded tip.
Soldering Iron with a ground tip... Oh my.. We are not working with FETs or MOSFETs any more. The days of killing something do to static discharge are long gone, most if not all ICs have some sort of ESD protection built into them. Let alone they are IC's and not FETs or MOSFETs. 2nd... we are not working on any Aircraft Systems or Life Safety systems that do have different requirements for ESD handling etc. but remember that the systems on Aircraft and Lifesafty equipment are built to handle ESD an shock... How many times do you think an airplane is hit by lightning???? A lot more than people think, a lot more let alone the static build up. Only time you blow shit up like that his hooking the red wire to the blue pad etc.
Hi Deryk. I have an older bluebox metra F40PH. I am thinking of doing this. Good note on the older models. any way to fix that? Also why didnt you put the ditch lights on here or is that possible?
Thanks! I didn't put ditch lights on this because it would have required a lot more fabrication than I cared to attempt. Not something easy to do. But I did add strobes to the roof, If you watch any of my later videos of this.
How can you tell if the motor is isolated? I am thinking about upgrading a DC loco to DCC but I don't wanna waste my time if it's just going to short out a decoder.
Well...you just have to pull the motor out and make sure there is no metal to metal contact. You really have to watch the older 'Blue Box' locomotives, some of those actually get power to the motor right from the frame. Most of the newer locomotives have isolated motors, usually with a plastic casing or plastic motor mounts. Never hurts to double check though. Thanks for watching! Deryk
I don't know if you got tongue tied or what, but your wiring is a little off. When using a single speaker, the polarity does not matter. The polarity only matters when you're using multiple speakers, then they must be wired accordingly. When wiring LED's, the polarity does matter, you must put the resistor on the positive side. otherwise, nice job!
Thanks for correcting me on the speaker, but I didn't get tongue tied about the LED. I said it doesn't matter which side you put the resistor, but that the positive goes to the 'Common' output on the decoder. Thanks for watching and the compliment! Deryk
you must have a special LED, most (if not all) wiring diagrams/instructions for LED indicate to put the resistor on the positive side. as long as it works, it's OK
PennCentral99 I think you are the one with special LEDs, This is a big debated topic if you search, but you have your opinion and I'll have mine. As long as the LED is hooked up with correct polarity, it doesn't matter which side the resistor is on. Here are two articles that support my opinion. One is straight from Digitrax www.digitrax.com/static/apps/products/accessories/t1w/documents/T1W.pdf www.mrdccu.com/curriculum/lighting/LED.htm
Great install Deryk! It is coming along very well. I really enjoyed the in-depth decoder install. The sound from the Loksound is fantastic, hopefully with the new speaker everything will fit perfectly. Looking forward to seeing the extra details added. Thanks for sharing!
Ethan
Thanks Ethan! I really appreciate it!
Deryk
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to walk us through your project. Look forward to the next installment.
Thank you very much!
I like your comments about fear of soldering, haha. I had a phobia of soldering till i tried it...it's so easy, infact very pleasant to solder.
The bigger speakers in the locomotive the better n more sound
I'am totally impressed with your knowledge and installation of the decoder and LEDs. Very nice job Deryk. Great job. Enjoyed the how to. Mike
Thanks Mike! I really don't know much, just enough to get by, LOL
Deryk
Sorry I missed this one.Great Job Deryk.Now I know what to expect when I get one of these Locomotives.No problems with the speaker at all for 28mm.Looks like you had a fairly easy job on this one.Most of Walthers Train Lines do have considerable room for conversions.Very neatly done conversion job.Thanks for sharing.Love the led job you did.
Hey thanks!! It was the easiest sound decoder I've done yet for sure. Thanks for taking the time to watch such a long video.
Deryk
It is a long video but worth watching for a future conversion.Thanks again.
Perfect timing i'm getting ready to try my hand at installing a sound decoder in my SD40-2 bachmann. Thanks Deryk.
Thanks! And good luck with your install! I haven't added sound to any of my Bachmann SD40-2's yet, but finding a place for the speaker is going to be the hardest part. Most people have to mill some of the frame to make room. Let us know how it goes!
Deryk
that was a great how to you explain things really well and in short time on the vid Thanks for some of the tips Lee
This is some good and easy to follow information, thanks for sharing it.
Thanks Wayne!!
Nice video Deryk! Very helpful. I got DC locos that i have to put decoders in, so thanks for the how to. Later, John
Thanks!! Hope I helped out a little bit!
Deryk
Nice video! The f40ph is run with the prime mover operating in "run 8" so that the other generator can operate the air conditioning, lights, and other electric appliances in my area. Was a common diesel as early as 1990. I have the video!
Thanks! Yes I loved the F40PH's They were very common whenever I was a youngster. Which is why I modeled this. And always love the HEP mode on those. 'SCREAMERS'
Nice vid. Sweet sounding decoder!
Thanks John! Sorry for such a long vid, LOL
Deryk
Great video, Deryk.
David
Thanks David!
Deryk
Just wondering if you have a video on how you constructed your layout from the ground (legs) up?
No, I'm sorry I don't.
Pretty darn cool!
Thanks Dwayne!!
Deryk
I have one. Mine is not dcc ready and has a bizarre hybrid paint scheme that I have only seen on cabbages.
How many expensive sound decoders are you going to destroy before you get a soldering iron with a grounded tip.
Soldering Iron with a ground tip... Oh my.. We are not working with FETs or MOSFETs any more. The days of killing something do to static discharge are long gone, most if not all ICs have some sort of ESD protection built into them. Let alone they are IC's and not FETs or MOSFETs.
2nd... we are not working on any Aircraft Systems or Life Safety systems that do have different requirements for ESD handling etc. but remember that the systems on Aircraft and Lifesafty equipment are built to handle ESD an shock... How many times do you think an airplane is hit by lightning???? A lot more than people think, a lot more let alone the static build up. Only time you blow shit up like that his hooking the red wire to the blue pad etc.
Great how to Deryk!
Thanks Paul! Except for my big hands getting in the way, LOL
Deryk
Hi Deryk. I have an older bluebox metra F40PH. I am thinking of doing this. Good note on the older models. any way to fix that? Also why didnt you put the ditch lights on here or is that possible?
Thanks! I didn't put ditch lights on this because it would have required a lot more fabrication than I cared to attempt. Not something easy to do. But I did add strobes to the roof, If you watch any of my later videos of this.
How can you tell if the motor is isolated? I am thinking about upgrading a DC loco to DCC but I don't wanna waste my time if it's just going to short out a decoder.
Well...you just have to pull the motor out and make sure there is no metal to metal contact. You really have to watch the older 'Blue Box' locomotives, some of those actually get power to the motor right from the frame. Most of the newer locomotives have isolated motors, usually with a plastic casing or plastic motor mounts. Never hurts to double check though. Thanks for watching!
Deryk
***** If still in doubt,you can check with a digital OHM meter and look for a reading of .1 set on 200 setting
Where did you find this loksound version at? I have looked on ebay i see n scale for kato but not HO.
This is a Loksound Select Direct. I bought it from Tony's Train Exchange. And had them load the proper sound file for me.
One other question. Did you run the loco on a dc track to test before converting to DCC?
No I didn't, BUT I should have just to be sure the locomotive runs and runs good. I need to make some test tracks.
Thanks, Deryk
I don't know if you got tongue tied or what, but your wiring is a little off. When using a single speaker, the polarity does not matter. The polarity only matters when you're using multiple speakers, then they must be wired accordingly. When wiring LED's, the polarity does matter, you must put the resistor on the positive side. otherwise, nice job!
Thanks for correcting me on the speaker, but I didn't get tongue tied about the LED. I said it doesn't matter which side you put the resistor, but that the positive goes to the 'Common' output on the decoder. Thanks for watching and the compliment!
Deryk
you must have a special LED, most (if not all) wiring diagrams/instructions for LED indicate to put the resistor on the positive side. as long as it works, it's OK
PennCentral99
I think you are the one with special LEDs, This is a big debated topic if you search, but you have your opinion and I'll have mine. As long as the LED is hooked up with correct polarity, it doesn't matter which side the resistor is on.
Here are two articles that support my opinion. One is straight from Digitrax
www.digitrax.com/static/apps/products/accessories/t1w/documents/T1W.pdf
www.mrdccu.com/curriculum/lighting/LED.htm
that was a great how to you explain things really well and in short time on the vid Thanks for some of the tips Lee
Thanks Lee, I really appreciate it!
Deryk