Great video I appreciate all the information. I'm going to do other upgrades in the future, but this device is exactly what I'm looking for right now. Thanks again.
Seen your first video about this setup and liked it because of the whole idea and the ways you found to make this possible, but now, with this video, man, I have to call you a genius!! I was in fact today getting a pc fan to do an extractor heat fan, and came to UA-cam to get some ideas, and I think UA-cam must have read my mind because they put the best video out there as first to watch. Great idea, keep on sharing all those McGyver ideas to get a smart enclosure!! P.S.: Have subscribed!!
Thank you for your comments....appreciated. Have you seen the latest video as I have just changed the thermostat controller to a much better version? ua-cam.com/video/j1bbWSUcmZA/v-deo.html
@@TWSreviews i did not, but i am going now! Thank you for the share, i am really interested on putting this idea into practice since it will control a little bit more the temperature and reduce energy bill.
Jon - You need to look at a Raspberry Pi3 running Octoprint. You can control a fan using Octoprint to control the relay circuit. All can be very compact. You can also control a fishtank heater with a dual port relay, and use that to heat the enclosure. You also need to be cafeful when it gets cold as your filament will absorb moisture, and then prints turn pooh.
Fantastic video loaded with interest and learning ........ If I had my way as a licence payer, the BBC would bring back Tomorrow’s World program and you would be hosting it from command centre workshop !!!!!!😊
Great idea and find, so cheap too....How will you cope in Winter when it's 5C in the shed? Won't you need a heater instead? We have the worst flying weather in the World, sick of it now.
Those temp controls are great. One I got had a separate sensor so I guess I'll put it near the print head. The idea of using a standard 120mm fan is key. And having small gaps in the enclosure is actually advantageous for keeping turbulence inside the enclosure to a minimum. An air tight enclosure wouldn't work very well.
It does make it a lot quieter. I also changed the control board and that was a massive difference. The robotic wining noises the stepper motors make completely gone.
I presume you aren't printing with abs on your printer? That would read the enclosure to be warmer anyway and drafts from a fan would probably cause failed prints. Not sure how much a daft will affect other filament but might be something to bear in mind. As for monitoring the temperature have you thought about using a raspberry pi? I have a pi connected to my printer running Octo print so can start / stop prints remotely and see progress and temps of the bed and hot end. If you added a Sensor ( eg DS18B20+) to the pi you could then also monitor the enclosure temp. I pull all this data in to some software called home assistant which can also run on a raspberry pi, but Octoprint has loads of extensions so there might be one that could display the enclosure temp.
Thanks for the feedback.... I haven't been printing ABS because of the smell, Now its in the shed it will be fine. If I print ABS I can close the vents and the reason I went with a low speed fan. Question, Does the raspberry pi need to be connected to a PC?
@@TWSreviews no the Pi doesn't need to be connected to a PC, it has WiFi onboard. It is connected to my printer with a USB cable and sits outside the enclosure. I then do everything from my PC and upload my Gcode file via the Octoprint web browser so no more putting files on to sd cards 😀
@@TWSreviews not sure if I'll be allowed to post a URL but if I do here is a link to a guide on getting a temperature sensor connected to a Raspberry Pi: tutorials-raspberrypi.com/raspberry-pi-temperature-sensor-1wire-ds18b20/
Do you have two fans in this enclosure? One at the bottom blowing air from the shed into the enclosure and one at the top blowing air from the enclosure to the shed?
I have one enclosure fan sucking the warm air from the enclosure. I have allowed gaps a the bottom sides so cold air is not drawn across the print bed. cools the control board then up and out from the back, works well, having cold air hitting the print bed causes warping and can cause the print to release mid print.
@@TWSreviews thanks I m in the process of building an enclosure myself. I plan to put a suction fan at the top. But there are alot of electronics inside the printer directly under the hot bed and build plate. Not sure if the suction fan will do the trick of keeping these electronics cool!
@@mtzmechengr5781 the air being drawn in needs to be low level and on the sides to ensure the air flow is through the main control board. heat rises so will always be cooler at the bottom where the control board is drawing in cool air. I may look at a small mini computer fan and flat ducting to draw air just for the main board. I hope you are enjoying the problem solving and testing as it makes it all the more rewarding. Good luck with your project and please let me know how well it goes. Jon
Hi. Is there any way to know if I would need the 110V-220V or the 12V version if I am using a US Geeetech A30T? I know its likely a dumb question. I know how to solder and whatnot but Idk much about DC current lol. The specs show DC24V so I assume I might need that one
If you buy a 12V fan and get a 12v power adapter, you can run the fan and controller off that. Have a look at my latest video: ua-cam.com/video/j1bbWSUcmZA/v-deo.html
I score it a few times with my sharp knife and then snap over the edge of the table. give it a go, once you have done it once or twice you just give it some with confidence.....lol
I have set the upper temperature to 27 deg C and stope extracting at 24. It a nice ambient temperature and seems to work well. I must admit I don't use ABS and favour PLA & PLA+. I have ABS and don't like the smell......lol
It is an XT60 connector. You can buy a male and female XT60 and solder to make an extension cable. I use them for my model batteries so I was able to knock it up easily. I guess you can buy an XT60 extension lead from ebay....
@@SuperRalfio I made a longer red and black wire, soldered an XT60 plug on the end and then connected it direct into the power supply + & - connections
@@SuperRalfio you could try one of these www.banggood.com/14AWG-300mm-T-or-XT60-Male-Female-Plug-Charging-Wire-Adapter-Extension-Cable-for-Lipo-Battery-p-1669335.html?cur_warehouse=CN&ID=510961&rmmds=search
The enclosure gets warm and this shifts the heat efficiently. I have a low level vent in the back and gasket around the front base of the enclosure so it never draws cold air in across the print bed. Works great and have been printing all through the winter with the ambient temperature in my shed being 5 deg C at times. A nice toasty 24 Deg C maintained inside the enclosure.
Very clever solution and cheap is a big bonus 👍 thanks for sharing
Great video I appreciate all the information. I'm going to do other upgrades in the future, but this device is exactly what I'm looking for right now. Thanks again.
Seen your first video about this setup and liked it because of the whole idea and the ways you found to make this possible, but now, with this video, man, I have to call you a genius!!
I was in fact today getting a pc fan to do an extractor heat fan, and came to UA-cam to get some ideas, and I think UA-cam must have read my mind because they put the best video out there as first to watch.
Great idea, keep on sharing all those McGyver ideas to get a smart enclosure!!
P.S.: Have subscribed!!
Thank you for your comments....appreciated.
Have you seen the latest video as I have just changed the thermostat controller to a much better version?
ua-cam.com/video/j1bbWSUcmZA/v-deo.html
@@TWSreviews i did not, but i am going now! Thank you for the share, i am really interested on putting this idea into practice since it will control a little bit more the temperature and reduce energy bill.
Jon - You need to look at a Raspberry Pi3 running Octoprint. You can control a fan using Octoprint to control the relay circuit. All can be very compact. You can also control a fishtank heater with a dual port relay, and use that to heat the enclosure. You also need to be cafeful when it gets cold as your filament will absorb moisture, and then prints turn pooh.
I just read your comment on this video. But is there a wiring diagram about how to do this and control everything with the enclosure plugin?
cheers Jon some great info in this one
Fantastic video loaded with interest and learning ........ If I had my way as a licence payer, the BBC would bring back Tomorrow’s World program and you would be hosting it from command centre workshop !!!!!!😊
Great idea and find, so cheap too....How will you cope in Winter when it's 5C in the shed?
Won't you need a heater instead?
We have the worst flying weather in the World, sick of it now.
My shed is well insulated and the bed heats up the enclosure no problem
Those temp controls are great. One I got had a separate sensor so I guess I'll put it near the print head. The idea of using a standard 120mm fan is key. And having small gaps in the enclosure is actually advantageous for keeping turbulence inside the enclosure to a minimum. An air tight enclosure wouldn't work very well.
Man, I like all of your videos .
Great videos.
Do you have plans on how you built that amazing looking enclosure? Or a link to a kit? Great video!!
Check out this video for a bit more information.
ua-cam.com/video/wkImALCQcFc/v-deo.html
How is it to keep the noise in?
It does make it a lot quieter.
I also changed the control board and that was a massive difference. The robotic wining noises the stepper motors make completely gone.
If there was a fire with your 3 d printer would the fan now just blow fresh air onto the fire accelerating the fire ?
I guess it would suck the smoke out of the enclosure and set off my smoke detector.
I presume you aren't printing with abs on your printer? That would read the enclosure to be warmer anyway and drafts from a fan would probably cause failed prints. Not sure how much a daft will affect other filament but might be something to bear in mind.
As for monitoring the temperature have you thought about using a raspberry pi? I have a pi connected to my printer running Octo print so can start / stop prints remotely and see progress and temps of the bed and hot end. If you added a Sensor ( eg DS18B20+) to the pi you could then also monitor the enclosure temp. I pull all this data in to some software called home assistant which can also run on a raspberry pi, but Octoprint has loads of extensions so there might be one that could display the enclosure temp.
Thanks for the feedback....
I haven't been printing ABS because of the smell, Now its in the shed it will be fine. If I print ABS I can close the vents and the reason I went with a low speed fan.
Question, Does the raspberry pi need to be connected to a PC?
@@TWSreviews no the Pi doesn't need to be connected to a PC, it has WiFi onboard. It is connected to my printer with a USB cable and sits outside the enclosure. I then do everything from my PC and upload my Gcode file via the Octoprint web browser so no more putting files on to sd cards 😀
@@TWSreviews not sure if I'll be allowed to post a URL but if I do here is a link to a guide on getting a temperature sensor connected to a Raspberry Pi: tutorials-raspberrypi.com/raspberry-pi-temperature-sensor-1wire-ds18b20/
You can also spend very little money and get a combined temp/humidity sensor that plugs into the pi without the need for any soldering.
Do you have two fans in this enclosure? One at the bottom blowing air from the shed into the enclosure and one at the top blowing air from the enclosure to the shed?
I have one enclosure fan sucking the warm air from the enclosure. I have allowed gaps a the bottom sides so cold air is not drawn across the print bed. cools the control board then up and out from the back, works well, having cold air hitting the print bed causes warping and can cause the print to release mid print.
@@TWSreviews thanks I m in the process of building an enclosure myself. I plan to put a suction fan at the top. But there are alot of electronics inside the printer directly under the hot bed and build plate. Not sure if the suction fan will do the trick of keeping these electronics cool!
@@mtzmechengr5781 the air being drawn in needs to be low level and on the sides to ensure the air flow is through the main control board. heat rises so will always be cooler at the bottom where the control board is drawing in cool air. I may look at a small mini computer fan and flat ducting to draw air just for the main board.
I hope you are enjoying the problem solving and testing as it makes it all the more rewarding.
Good luck with your project and please let me know how well it goes.
Jon
Hi. Is there any way to know if I would need the 110V-220V or the 12V version if I am using a US Geeetech A30T? I know its likely a dumb question. I know how to solder and whatnot but Idk much about DC current lol. The specs show DC24V so I assume I might need that one
If you buy a 12V fan and get a 12v power adapter, you can run the fan and controller off that.
Have a look at my latest video: ua-cam.com/video/j1bbWSUcmZA/v-deo.html
How did you get such clean cuts on the perpexs?
I score it a few times with my sharp knife and then snap over the edge of the table. give it a go, once you have done it once or twice you just give it some with confidence.....lol
I'll give that a shot thanks lol
Great vid thanks, I wanted to ask can you wire a plug onto the power cord and run it from the mains ?
Thanks again
The one I purchased was 24v DC not mains voltage. You could buy a 12V or 24V PSU mains adapter to run a controller and fan
Thanks
Great Video, what do you set the ambient temperature to when you print ABS and/or PLA
I have set the upper temperature to 27 deg C and stope extracting at 24.
It a nice ambient temperature and seems to work well. I must admit I don't use ABS and favour PLA & PLA+.
I have ABS and don't like the smell......lol
Lol, Thank you for the reply and I can’t wait to try it out
How do you build the connection to the power supply?
It is an XT60 connector. You can buy a male and female XT60 and solder to make an extension cable.
I use them for my model batteries so I was able to knock it up easily. I guess you can buy an XT60 extension lead from ebay....
@@TWSreviews ok so you solder the cable directly to that cabel that comes out of the power Supply?
Greetings from Germany 🙈
and Merry Christmas
@@SuperRalfio I made a longer red and black wire, soldered an XT60 plug on the end and then connected it direct into the power supply + & - connections
@@TWSreviews Thx
@@SuperRalfio you could try one of these
www.banggood.com/14AWG-300mm-T-or-XT60-Male-Female-Plug-Charging-Wire-Adapter-Extension-Cable-for-Lipo-Battery-p-1669335.html?cur_warehouse=CN&ID=510961&rmmds=search
TWS what sort of light is that you had in your enclosure, the one that looks like an industrial stage light. Is it a garden light or something?
it was a miniature stage light I printed and has a blue 1W LED in it for a nice effect.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2051738
or this one
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3036251
@@TWSreviews Excellent, thank you!
How well does it handle ABS?
The enclosure gets warm and this shifts the heat efficiently.
I have a low level vent in the back and gasket around the front base of the enclosure so it never draws cold air in across the print bed. Works great and have been printing all through the winter with the ambient temperature in my shed being 5 deg C at times. A nice toasty 24 Deg C maintained inside the enclosure.
crazy cheap =- fire hazard
I hear you but was on offer and wasn't low quality build......not pushing the power and I kept an eye on it for the first few runs.