Tip, use a cheap baby monitor inside that connects to your wifi. I just watch everything from my phone anytime anywhere as long as you have internet signal.
I've been using a cheap photo studio tent for my Alfawise U20 for a year now. I put the power supply in there too for maximum heating of the tent. I've been using this setup for a year now and I've been printing ABS and ASA with absolutely no issues with 100°C bed and 250°C nozzle. It cost me around 10 to 20 bucks, one of the best purchase of my life.
@@alejandroperez5368 Well, it isn't impermeable, temperature in the tent may rise to +10 to 15°c compared to ambient but that's not bery dangerous for the power supply.
I am SO glad you mentioned the smell! This happens to me all the time. Because it is closed, the smell gets concentrated, so the smell hits like a truck when you first open the enclosure.
Nice, this video convinced me to get this instead of making my own 2020 extrusion enclosure. You could flip the whole unit to see the first layer better by having the window at the bottom, but you'd let all the heat out as you open it.
I got this and it worked fine although not needed for PETG and PLA but I noticed after another upgrade I eventually got jamming or filament breaking at the extruder on longer prints. I realised later the extruder stepper motor was getting hot and my upgrade to Creality's Aluminium extruder was absorbing the heat and causing filament to soften and deform then get stuck or break on retractions....... Just something to note, was a big headache to find.
Nice review. It is a great addition. I've had the large version of this for a few months for my CR10S Pro. Like you mentioned - It instantly solved all of my ABS/ASA/Nylon printing issues for larger prints. I could not get these to stick to the bed (tried glass, glue, PEI etc etc) and now they almost stick too well even on glass. Warping is also gone even for PLA. Best upgrade to my printer setup I've done. As for inside temps - the power supply (Meanwell) fan runs all the time now. My PSU is rated at 50C at full power (500W) and 70C at 50% power so this should all be fine. The other electonics (main board and display) should be ok at 50-60C. I have used this setup with a max ambient temp of 30C so far (inside got to 40C) but summer is coming here in Australia. 40C ambient is imminent and I'll be interested to see hot the inside gets - I may have to open thay ventilation flap at the top. The larger enclosure has the cable entry point at the rear which is more sensible I think. My RaspPi sits outside with the USB cable just going inside. It has no heatsink and would overheat inside I would imagine. Handy tip for lighting: I use a mains powered 10W LED floodlight (from the hardware store) facing straight up and the rear of the enclosure and use a Pi connected Web Camera at the front. The shiny internal walls reflect well and my remote camera video image is awesome with no shadows. No need for fancy strip lighting and such.
Thanks for detailed comment. Be carreful with ventilation, because even 50-60°C is too cold compared to ABS printing temp. Enclosure helps to avoid any breeze or moving of air. Use only minimal ventilation and not in direction of prinitng object.
@@MyTechFun Did a bit more experimenting over the last day. Did a large ASA print overnight (10hours @ 15C ambient) and the enclosure got to around 35-40C. This print got a crack half way up the print and the bottom corners had slight lift. Did the exact same print during day (32C ambient) and the inside temp got to 56C. Print came out perfect. Huge difference with no settings change. Luckily my printer is setup in my large shed as the ASA fumes were very noticeable once the print finished.
Great video mate 👍 I got one of these a couple of weeks ago and am loving it. It helps cut down some of the high pitch noise, and I deadened mine further by sticking some 10mm heat proof car sound proofing foam inside (the foil covered type). My ambient temp is around 23 degrees and measuring the temperature near the top of the enclosure I get up to 40 degrees (nased on a bed temp of around 70 degrees). One thing to be careful of is any PLA parts you've customised the printer with can warp in the heat (I need to re-print my Raspberry PI case in ASA now so it doesn't melt). BTW Octoprint with a Raspberry PI and a PI Camera is a good solution for being able to see inside, you will may need to add some internal lighting to get the light levels up for the camera. Definitely well worth the purchase IMHO - well made and really easy to setup.
Is there a specific name for that foam? Or just what you said. And is it fully fire proof? I'm trying to cut all noise from my machine since it's in my bedroom and if fireproof noise canceling foam exists then I'm certainly intrested
@@qade2128 PS I don't know what printer you have but mine was an Ender 3 V1. I replaced the mainboard with the 32 bit version with the silent stepper motor drivers and it's almost silent. I can't believe how much noise used to come from the stepper motors. That high pitched R2D2 sort of whine - totally gone. Another sound mod I did was to replace the PSU fan with a larger diameter fan with a lower sound level. Required a bit of metal work to do. That also reduced the high pitched whining.
I got the larger version for printing Nylon and Polycarbonate with an ender 3v2. Running a all metal hotend at 280c and a bed of 100c. Ambient air around the enclosure is 22c 50% humidity. Inside the chamber I got it to settle in at a toasty 40c and 10% humidity with just the printer and an hour of preheat. So far prints with nylon have been pretty good. Ideally I would want to get it even higher than that. I am working on relocating my MOBO, PSU, and LCD outside of the chamber with a custom wiring harness and adding another controlled heat source. Hopefully I don't kill any steppers but I think they will be okay below 70-80c.
I've been using the same enclosure for some time now and still can't understand why there is a flap on the right side but not the left - this makes accessing the extruder for filament changing a real pain! A small hole on the left would also allow filament to be fed in from an external filament dryer. Anyway thankyou for all your work on these videos.
Greetings from Brazil! I moved my screen outside, the cable was just the right size.I printed a stand for it. I also moved my Raspberry Pi outside. And I would recommend moving the spool holder to the middle of the rail, it seems it will avoid the spool from rubbing into the enclosure. Still haven´t tested it with ABS/ASA, will do it in this weekend. Fun fact: I bought my enclosure about the same time as you made this video, but I left it stored for over a year LOL. I only assembled it now that I am putting my 'definitive" 3D printing space together, as fot the last year I was using my guests room for that. :D Oh, a good addition to the enclosure is a set of LED lights. It helps checking out the first layers through the cover, as well as for filming it with Octoprint. I jutt used cable ties to attach it to the structural tubes (I mounted it into the top front tube, passed the USB cable outside through the side opening, tied everything up with cable ties so it looks neat - light switch is outside of the enclosure so I can turn it on and off anytime I want without opening the enclosure). I bought this one: www.banggood.com/32CM-5W-USB-LED-Rigid-Strip-Bar-Tube-Light-Kitchen-Cupboard-Under-Cabinet-Lamp-with-Switch-p-1410410.html
Cara, estou pensando em comprar um enclosure desses. Também moro aqui no Brasil, e cidade bem quente. Qual foi a sua experiência imprimindo ABS? Ficou quente demais dentro? Meu medo é aquecer demais e chegar a danificar as partes eletrônicas, e algumas customizações que fiz usando PLA.
@@luizricardosilva2500eu usava na ender 3 V2 e imprimia ABS e nylon maravilhosamente. Foi junto com a impressora quando vendi. Tô precisando de uma maior agora que tô com uma Anycubic Mega X com upgrades.
I use the same enclosure for my Ender 3S1 Pro. It barely fit inside with the controller removed and placed to the side. My PLA sticks to the bed like a champ now and no more warping. I use a small wi-fi camera inside to check on progress. I do plan to modify and make a bracket for the bottom of the printer to vent the electronics with air from outside instead of the hot air inside the enclosure.
This is a very helpful video because I'm not experienced with 3D printing but currently thinking about buying/using the Ender-3 S1 Pro with ABS and ASA. Thank you very much.
Pro? (that's all metal hotend?) Probably great printer for that. I hope the mainboard fan is not connected directly with part cooling fan (like on E3V2), because for ABS you want to disable (or minimalize) the part cooling. E3V2 mainboard fan rotates only if part cooling fan is ON
I've been thinking about a tent for my Ender 5, but was trying to justify the cost. Looks like it may be worth it. I like the idea of a camera inside to monitor first layer as it could zoom to get a better view than naked eye, but could also print a small mount and hold the door just partly open during the first layer print. As heat rises not too much would be lost if it was only opened a little bit to monitor :). Thank you so much for this video
seems kinda pricey for a cute little printer tent! Cant argue with those results thought! Airflow is the biggest thing you need to minimise! I use both my printers in Ikea Lacks that are against the corners of a room, I have one side blocked with a removable panel made from chipboard I got in the ikea Spares section, and the front I only cover with some fabric or something when I'm printing warp-happy filaments! works great!
I agree. What I like with this enclosure, that it is easily movable. My printers are in different location (flat, basement..). And in my overnight printings, I sleep a little bit better when printing in this flame resistant tent.
The temperature probe is not on the actual stepper motor at 8:35, thats why it just reads the air temperature. Stepper motors get around 70-80 degrees celcius when operational!
I was interested to see what the stepper motor temperature would have been but you attached the probe to the cover that was over the x stopper switch, the x stepper motor is on the other side of the frame
any concerns about the computer and logic boards also being inside the heater? This is why I wish the boards remained in a box separate from the printer itself.
I have an Ender 3 V2, wondering if it’s worth buying the bigger version of the enclosure that you bought in this video, the enclosure that is meant for the bigger line of Creality’s printers. This way I might have some more room around the printer to set up a camera and stuff.
Hi, thinking the same thought here. I guess in the Video is the Small Version (445x565x685mm). But im not sure if its any good for venting, cause it has no round ports for e.g. hose 100mm. Did you found a solution for it?
Well its well known that Asa have less warping than abs, but need more extrude and bed temp, and if yuo going serius ,an all metal hot end(so no ptfe tube)
I use an enclosure for my ender 3, but printing pla and ht pla+. I kept greeting heat creep causing clogs. Mainly because the fan is just circulating hot air to the heat sink. I haven't tried ABD or other materials though.
i would be scared the motherboard or power supply would overheat inside a tent like that. i would think both of those would be vented to the outside in printers that already come with an enclosure.
If have bought the creality enclosure for my Ender 3 V2 with 4.2.2 Mainboard to start printing abs and other materials that have problems with warping, but.... if you turn the part cooling fan off, the mainboard fan also turn off, they are connected in parallel so they work the same. Thats a problem because we want to keep electronics cool. This type of materials doesn't use part cooling soo there is a serious problem there. The best way is to connect the mainboard fan to the hotend fan so they run all the time on. Be aware of that!!!!
I have the 4.2.2 mainboard and there are two JST plugs on the mainboard, one for part cooling and one for the mainboard fan. But both plugs are connected in parallel 🥲 please check yours Igor, because your mainboard's lifespan will be reduce because of that issue.
Thank you for sharing. I'm late to the party... 😅 Just wondering what were your printing parameters? I have an enclosure (COMGROW) and I'm still experiencing some warping when I print ASA. I have a full metal hot end and even tungsten .4 nozzle. I have cooling fan completely turned off throughout the print. I like the COMGROW enclosure better than this one, it has more port holes and they're towards the back (better for the power cord), and one of the holes is round, which looks like I can stick a blow dryer in to increase the temperature higher.
So far I didn't noticed any problems. But in my basement I have 15°C, in enslosure max 45°C. I can imagine, that somebody's room temperature is (almost) like inside my enclosure ;-)
I have concerns about the heat. I couldn't touch at bottom of the printer even without enclosure. I don't think that much heat is good for electronics in power supply.
... Today we will make a 3D Printer Enclosure. First you need to print 8 corners. Next you just need to go find 12 sticks, and cut them so they are a bit larger than the sides of your printer. Next you need put the corners and sticks together. Lastly you cover the whole thing with some sheet of aluminium.
So far not, temp only goes up to 40-45°C inside (in this room temp is 15-20°C). If you want to heat the air inside, then yes, it would be smart to take electronic out.
Arra gondoltam, hogy építek egyet bosch profilból és plexiből.. PETG-t szeretnék nyomtatni, de abban a szobában fér csak el a nyomtató, ahol a legtöbbet vagyok, ezért arra gondoltam, hogy ezt a dobozt még kiegészíteném egy nagyon lassú fordulatú ventillátorral, hogy a lehető legkisebb légáramlást keltsem vele és egy hepa szűrővel (vagy a kár kettővel). Ez mennyire lenne butaság? Nem igen találtam cikket azzal kapcsolatban, hogy milyen hatásai vannak a petg nyomatatása közben felszabadult gázoknak, ezért gondoltam, hogy jobb a békesség és megszűröm a kiáramló gázokat. A doboz moga meg lenne emelve, hogy az elektronika elférjen kényelmesen alatta és alulról be lenne vezetve a motorokhoz és a fejhez az összes vezeték.. a tápegység is így kívülre kerülne, így a motorokon kívül minden kint lenne a dobozból. A nyomtató fej körül csináltam egy burkolatmódosítást HT pla-ból.. eddig annak nem volt baja, pedig közel van a heatbrake-hez és a fűtőblokkhoz, így szerintem kibírná a dobozolást is. Van valami javaslatod/ tapasztalatod ezzel kapcsolatban?
PLA, PETG ok. ABS vagy ASA már kevésbé, ott nagyon is ajánlatos a zárt tér és nem csak a hő miatt, hanem épp a toxikus gázok végett. Hepa szűrő vagy akár direkt kivezetés az ablakba jó megoldás (persze gázok kivezetése a nyomtatás végén, ne legyen áramlás nyomtatás közben). Tápegység, ha megoldható, kívűre ajánlják.
Recently I did some ABS review, temperature went up to 51°C inside. I measured the stepper motors, 79°C. It is good that rest of electronics is lower, below the printer. I was thinking to add some airflowing direction from outside. ua-cam.com/video/YI9dcCAQV1A/v-deo.html
Nice housing, I bought it from Amazon, creality brand, but it didn't make a difference when printing with ABS, still warping like the one without the housing. Inside temperature between 34-40 depending on the bed temperature.
You need heat soaking the printer. Basically turn up the bed to temp and raise up the nozzle temp to a non melty level, and wait for 30 mins before start printing.
In this basement room the temperature is 15-20°C. Inside enclosure max 40-45°C. That's not much. If you want to use additional heating, then it would be good to move the electronic out. OR redirect fan air from outside (for cooling the elenctronics whats down in printer). Steppers can handle much higher temp.
In most cases I am printing ASA with 110°C bed temperature. For this it needs almost 10 minutes, during this time temp of the air also goes up almost to desired temperature. After 4-5 layers printed temp of the air is stabilized.
@@MyTechFun 110°C is over the glass transition temperature for ASA, which starts to soften at around 95°C I noticed your test prints have a considerable amount of elephants foot, probably due to that excessive bed temperature. A heated chamber is the way to go, instead of overheating the bed
@@alejandroperez5368 Hm. Good thinking, but for example PLA has heat deflaction temperature of 50-55°C and everybody is setting the bed to 60°C. Heated chamber is good solution, only I would like to move the electronic outside (not only the display).
@@MyTechFun just a theory here, but it's probably due to they are using glass as a print surface, so in reality they are not getting 60°C at the actual print surface?
I measured it, no problems with steppers on Ender3. Stepper motors can run on much higher temperature. Critical would be with direct drive extruder, it's near hotend, on my Prusa it works at 60C without enclosure. Not sure about CCT board, I didn't measured that.
I'm considering buying an Ender 3 S1 to print board game inserts on PLA or PETG. I need an enclosure to protect the printer from my cats. Do you think this enclure is cat proof?
Im using a prusa mk3s this was my first time that i have printed whith ASA filament from Form futura ApolloX i dont have any kind of enclosure the bed adhesion was great but prints came out to brittle, the interlayer bond wasn't perfect....... So im wondering is an enclosure beneficial for this kind of problems ??? Does the print quality gets better ,im referring to rigidity, not esthetics ???
I don't think this should affect the rigidity. PLA, PETG is much more brittle compared to ABS, ASA. Enclosure mostly helps to prevent warping and cracking.
Thank you ! ,do you have a tip how could i speed up my prints , I was thinking about changing my nozzle from 0.4 to 0.6 diameter what is from your experience the best affordable nozzle and hot end swap for a mk3s ? That is also reliable ? 🙂🤔
Thanks for taking the time to make your videos. I have a couple of suggestions. Don't play the background music. I think many of us would rather listen to natural sounds of your working on the printer, than to the background techno music which interferes with understanding what you are saying when you make comments. Secondly, as someone that was born in Eastern Europe but came to North America as a child, I can understand you well but others may have a more difficult time with your accent. This is nothing to be ashamed of or even worry about. However, if I can correct you on the pronunciation of "warp": You keep saying "wrap" which means a totally different thing than warp. Warp is pronounced "worp". Not trying to be a jerk. Just want to help you so that people can understand what you are saying. Cheers and thanks again for the videos. Ziveli.
- background music, I always try to minimalize it, usually I add it only when longer time without talking (but those "only music" DIY and tutorial videos has 100x more subs than me, probably music would be better then my bad English, but that's not me). - "Worp" Thx, lesson learned for a life now. Looks like in every video I got similar lessons, scissors without "C" or "K", shear stress is "sheeeer" stress.. :-) - HVALA!
Yes, they do. But it is recommended to install some exhaust pipe with fan, to enable it when printing us done, otherwise smell will go into room when you open the zipper.
Yes, that's the correct way to do it. Print ASA, ABS in closed enclosure, and ONLY when printing is finished, vent that air out somehow. During the printing not, because it may result some breeze of air, that's not good for these filaments.
I really dislike the added music. I'm often alone in disliking background music so you ought to check with other viewers if they like it or not. The music almost makes the video unwatchable for me. In general, I really like your videos. I've learned a lot from you. Thank you.
I finished watching the video and the background music got better. I'd still prefer no background music but I'll keep watching your videos if you add it like you did in this video. Thanks of another interesting video.
Partly I agree with you. I don't prefer music too, and I usually I add lower volume music only when I have longer breaks without talk. Sometimes have smaller exceptions.
Yes. I can see, now the prices is bigger, but I can get 50-51°C inside and I print ABS and similar materials without problems (just don't forget to rewire your mainboard cooling fan if you are using Ender3V2) ua-cam.com/video/GsymnDDAjiE/v-deo.html
The SainSmart version the window is lower, but ugly blue enclosure. Keep in mind, that the more clear plastic window, defeat purpose of insulated walls. Creality should have moved window lower.
I recently got one of these and it was the first thing I did after getting it, the ones made for the ender 3, the UniTak3D 3D Printer Light for about £18 on eBay
Tip, use a cheap baby monitor inside that connects to your wifi. I just watch everything from my phone anytime anywhere as long as you have internet signal.
Thanks
Octoprint takes care of that.
A very good review. Thank you so much for devoting the time and effort of making this video. I ordered enclosure based on your review.
I've been using a cheap photo studio tent for my Alfawise U20 for a year now. I put the power supply in there too for maximum heating of the tent. I've been using this setup for a year now and I've been printing ABS and ASA with absolutely no issues with 100°C bed and 250°C nozzle. It cost me around 10 to 20 bucks, one of the best purchase of my life.
But that's terrible for power supplies, supposedly.
@@alejandroperez5368 Well, it isn't impermeable, temperature in the tent may rise to +10 to 15°c compared to ambient but that's not bery dangerous for the power supply.
@@TheThunderwars an ambient temperature of 50 degrees celsius decreases its lifetime in half.
@@alejandroperez5368 proof?
@@user-yk1cw8im4h People at Prusa claimed this on their making a printer enclosure video
I am SO glad you mentioned the smell! This happens to me all the time. Because it is closed, the smell gets concentrated, so the smell hits like a truck when you first open the enclosure.
Yes, it is recommended to have some ventilation to suck the air out AFTER you finished the printing.
Nice, this video convinced me to get this instead of making my own 2020 extrusion enclosure. You could flip the whole unit to see the first layer better by having the window at the bottom, but you'd let all the heat out as you open it.
I got this and it worked fine although not needed for PETG and PLA but I noticed after another upgrade I eventually got jamming or filament breaking at the extruder on longer prints. I realised later the extruder stepper motor was getting hot and my upgrade to Creality's Aluminium extruder was absorbing the heat and causing filament to soften and deform then get stuck or break on retractions....... Just something to note, was a big headache to find.
dude heat creep is guranteed if you print pla and petg enclosed. It not only unnecessary but actually bad.
Very well done review ,I see their are some mods that need be done when I make my own. Thank you for donating your Precious time in making the video.
Nice review.
It is a great addition. I've had the large version of this for a few months for my CR10S Pro. Like you mentioned - It instantly solved all of my ABS/ASA/Nylon printing issues for larger prints. I could not get these to stick to the bed (tried glass, glue, PEI etc etc) and now they almost stick too well even on glass. Warping is also gone even for PLA. Best upgrade to my printer setup I've done.
As for inside temps - the power supply (Meanwell) fan runs all the time now. My PSU is rated at 50C at full power (500W) and 70C at 50% power so this should all be fine. The other electonics (main board and display) should be ok at 50-60C. I have used this setup with a max ambient temp of 30C so far (inside got to 40C) but summer is coming here in Australia. 40C ambient is imminent and I'll be interested to see hot the inside gets - I may have to open thay ventilation flap at the top. The larger enclosure has the cable entry point at the rear which is more sensible I think. My RaspPi sits outside with the USB cable just going inside. It has no heatsink and would overheat inside I would imagine.
Handy tip for lighting: I use a mains powered 10W LED floodlight (from the hardware store) facing straight up and the rear of the enclosure and use a Pi connected Web Camera at the front. The shiny internal walls reflect well and my remote camera video image is awesome with no shadows. No need for fancy strip lighting and such.
Thanks for detailed comment. Be carreful with ventilation, because even 50-60°C is too cold compared to ABS printing temp. Enclosure helps to avoid any breeze or moving of air. Use only minimal ventilation and not in direction of prinitng object.
@@MyTechFun Did a bit more experimenting over the last day. Did a large ASA print overnight (10hours @ 15C ambient) and the enclosure got to around 35-40C. This print got a crack half way up the print and the bottom corners had slight lift. Did the exact same print during day (32C ambient) and the inside temp got to 56C. Print came out perfect. Huge difference with no settings change. Luckily my printer is setup in my large shed as the ASA fumes were very noticeable once the print finished.
@@marcop3517 very useful info. Thanks.
Hello, by the way, it should be said that in some printers overheating of the electronics causes the motors to lose steps
Great video mate 👍 I got one of these a couple of weeks ago and am loving it. It helps cut down some of the high pitch noise, and I deadened mine further by sticking some 10mm heat proof car sound proofing foam inside (the foil covered type). My ambient temp is around 23 degrees and measuring the temperature near the top of the enclosure I get up to 40 degrees (nased on a bed temp of around 70 degrees). One thing to be careful of is any PLA parts you've customised the printer with can warp in the heat (I need to re-print my Raspberry PI case in ASA now so it doesn't melt). BTW Octoprint with a Raspberry PI and a PI Camera is a good solution for being able to see inside, you will may need to add some internal lighting to get the light levels up for the camera. Definitely well worth the purchase IMHO - well made and really easy to setup.
Is there a specific name for that foam? Or just what you said. And is it fully fire proof? I'm trying to cut all noise from my machine since it's in my bedroom and if fireproof noise canceling foam exists then I'm certainly intrested
@@qade2128 PS I don't know what printer you have but mine was an Ender 3 V1. I replaced the mainboard with the 32 bit version with the silent stepper motor drivers and it's almost silent. I can't believe how much noise used to come from the stepper motors. That high pitched R2D2 sort of whine - totally gone.
Another sound mod I did was to replace the PSU fan with a larger diameter fan with a lower sound level. Required a bit of metal work to do. That also reduced the high pitched whining.
@@EricTViking I've replaced the motherboard and fans all with noctua fans myself on my ender
I got the larger version for printing Nylon and Polycarbonate with an ender 3v2. Running a all metal hotend at 280c and a bed of 100c. Ambient air around the enclosure is 22c 50% humidity. Inside the chamber I got it to settle in at a toasty 40c and 10% humidity with just the printer and an hour of preheat. So far prints with nylon have been pretty good. Ideally I would want to get it even higher than that. I am working on relocating my MOBO, PSU, and LCD outside of the chamber with a custom wiring harness and adding another controlled heat source. Hopefully I don't kill any steppers but I think they will be okay below 70-80c.
Electronic (power supply, mainboard) are more sensitive to heat. Steppers can withstand mentioned temp without problems
I've been using the same enclosure for some time now and still can't understand why there is a flap on the right side but not the left - this makes accessing the extruder for filament changing a real pain! A small hole on the left would also allow filament to be fed in from an external filament dryer. Anyway thankyou for all your work on these videos.
Greetings from Brazil!
I moved my screen outside, the cable was just the right size.I printed a stand for it.
I also moved my Raspberry Pi outside. And I would recommend moving the spool holder to the middle of the rail, it seems it will avoid the spool from rubbing into the enclosure.
Still haven´t tested it with ABS/ASA, will do it in this weekend.
Fun fact: I bought my enclosure about the same time as you made this video, but I left it stored for over a year LOL. I only assembled it now that I am putting my 'definitive" 3D printing space together, as fot the last year I was using my guests room for that. :D
Oh, a good addition to the enclosure is a set of LED lights. It helps checking out the first layers through the cover, as well as for filming it with Octoprint. I jutt used cable ties to attach it to the structural tubes (I mounted it into the top front tube, passed the USB cable outside through the side opening, tied everything up with cable ties so it looks neat - light switch is outside of the enclosure so I can turn it on and off anytime I want without opening the enclosure). I bought this one: www.banggood.com/32CM-5W-USB-LED-Rigid-Strip-Bar-Tube-Light-Kitchen-Cupboard-Under-Cabinet-Lamp-with-Switch-p-1410410.html
Cara, estou pensando em comprar um enclosure desses. Também moro aqui no Brasil, e cidade bem quente. Qual foi a sua experiência imprimindo ABS? Ficou quente demais dentro? Meu medo é aquecer demais e chegar a danificar as partes eletrônicas, e algumas customizações que fiz usando PLA.
@@luizricardosilva2500eu usava na ender 3 V2 e imprimia ABS e nylon maravilhosamente. Foi junto com a impressora quando vendi. Tô precisando de uma maior agora que tô com uma Anycubic Mega X com upgrades.
I use the same enclosure for my Ender 3S1 Pro. It barely fit inside with the controller removed and placed to the side. My PLA sticks to the bed like a champ now and no more warping. I use a small wi-fi camera inside to check on progress. I do plan to modify and make a bracket for the bottom of the printer to vent the electronics with air from outside instead of the hot air inside the enclosure.
This is a very helpful video because I'm not experienced with 3D printing but currently thinking about buying/using the Ender-3 S1 Pro with ABS and ASA.
Thank you very much.
Pro? (that's all metal hotend?) Probably great printer for that. I hope the mainboard fan is not connected directly with part cooling fan (like on E3V2), because for ABS you want to disable (or minimalize) the part cooling. E3V2 mainboard fan rotates only if part cooling fan is ON
@@MyTechFun Oh, it's tricky... I will check it when I got the printer. Thank you!
Thank you for the review, much appreciated. This information is very helpful and you butterfly knife skills where a nice bonus keep up the good work.
11:55 OOF, gangster
Toys and memories from my teenhood :-)
Ready for a knife fight.
@@timd9430 no, playing with it was just for relaxation. I still found that sound very pleasent.
I've been thinking about a tent for my Ender 5, but was trying to justify the cost. Looks like it may be worth it.
I like the idea of a camera inside to monitor first layer as it could zoom to get a better view than naked eye, but could also print a small mount and hold the door just partly open during the first layer print. As heat rises not too much would be lost if it was only opened a little bit to monitor :).
Thank you so much for this video
seems kinda pricey for a cute little printer tent! Cant argue with those results thought! Airflow is the biggest thing you need to minimise! I use both my printers in Ikea Lacks that are against the corners of a room, I have one side blocked with a removable panel made from chipboard I got in the ikea Spares section, and the front I only cover with some fabric or something when I'm printing warp-happy filaments! works great!
I agree. What I like with this enclosure, that it is easily movable. My printers are in different location (flat, basement..). And in my overnight printings, I sleep a little bit better when printing in this flame resistant tent.
Thank you for this video it really helped me save money on a more expensive enclosure.
The temperature probe is not on the actual stepper motor at 8:35, thats why it just reads the air temperature. Stepper motors get around 70-80 degrees celcius when operational!
I know, I noticed this stupid error after I published the video :-(
@@MyTechFun no problem! Good review still
Very good video as usual. You rock! ; )
I was interested to see what the stepper motor temperature would have been but you attached the probe to the cover that was over the x stopper switch, the x stepper motor is on the other side of the frame
You should state in the video title that it's an Ender 3 *V2*. I was searching specifically for this, to see how well it fits inside, so thank you!
Officially it is for E3 and E3 pro. And E3V2 can fit too, it can be seen in video.
any concerns about the computer and logic boards also being inside the heater? This is why I wish the boards remained in a box separate from the printer itself.
I has similar thinking ua-cam.com/video/RlAxMqRlcb0/v-deo.html
I have an Ender 3 V2, wondering if it’s worth buying the bigger version of the enclosure that you bought in this video, the enclosure that is meant for the bigger line of Creality’s printers. This way I might have some more room around the printer to set up a camera and stuff.
Bigger enclosure means more air around it to be heated. So, if you can fit your equipment in the smaller version, go with that one.
@@MyTechFun Ok, I’ll get the smaller one. Thanks
@@MyTechFun Actually quick question, just wanted to double check whether the smaller enclosure can fit the Ender 3 V2 with a 1KG spool
@@innovativeengineering3210 Yes, that's what I used in this video too.
@@MyTechFun cr-10 smart no.
I used laminated glass with 3d printed corner frame and aluminium sheet at back and bottom.
Nice review 👍🏼🤗 im gonna order this for My Resin printer ( Anycubic Photon Mono X )
Hi, thinking the same thought here. I guess in the Video is the Small Version (445x565x685mm). But im not sure if its any good for venting, cause it has no round ports for e.g. hose 100mm. Did you found a solution for it?
13:38 that is not Prusament ABS(T) it is from PM (Plasty Mladeč).
Thanks, it was bought in Prusa shop (listed together with Prusament filaments), and there is no info on spool. How could you recognize it?
@@MyTechFun because that sticker on the spool + little PM logo on the spool itself
Very good review, thank you
I'd advise to move the filament spool to the outside of the printer if you're worried about fire
Placing filament inside the enclosure will keep it dry, if this is important (with Nylon for example)
@@MyTechFun yeh but you can still put a drybox on the outside and lead the filament into the enclosure
Raspbery PI + Camera is a great solution for this purpuse.
Thanks for sharing :-)
The best
Well its well known that Asa have less warping than abs, but need more extrude and bed temp, and if yuo going serius ,an all metal hot end(so no ptfe tube)
For higher temps I go with my Prusa (for Nylon for example). For ABS, ASA Ender3 will do the job too (in enclosure)
PETG still can warp alot and enclosure if beneficial
very well presented a really helpful video😃
Very nice review. 👏👏👏
I really need the same thing but for the cr-6 SE.. I have to print LW-ASA but no chance with open stock setup..
thanks for that review!
Great video.👏
I use an enclosure for my ender 3, but printing pla and ht pla+. I kept greeting heat creep causing clogs. Mainly because the fan is just circulating hot air to the heat sink. I haven't tried ABD or other materials though.
70 is way too overpriced when you add up all the materials of that. It's just a $10 clothes closet but with aluminum sheet enclosure.
The window lateral ist not a window, its an opening for psu ventilation.
Thank you so much! that is what I want to know.
THANK YOU VERY OOD VIDEO SVASIBA
i would be scared the motherboard or power supply would overheat inside a tent like that. i would think both of those would be vented to the outside in printers that already come with an enclosure.
If have bought the creality enclosure for my Ender 3 V2 with 4.2.2 Mainboard to start printing abs and other materials that have problems with warping, but.... if you turn the part cooling fan off, the mainboard fan also turn off, they are connected in parallel so they work the same. Thats a problem because we want to keep electronics cool. This type of materials doesn't use part cooling soo there is a serious problem there. The best way is to connect the mainboard fan to the hotend fan so they run all the time on. Be aware of that!!!!
Not all 3D printers are the same. Most of them have separate plug for mainboard fan and for part cooling fan.
@@MyTechFun I have a Ender 3 V2, I forgot to put my printer in the comment hehe
I have the 4.2.2 mainboard and there are two JST plugs on the mainboard, one for part cooling and one for the mainboard fan. But both plugs are connected in parallel 🥲 please check yours Igor, because your mainboard's lifespan will be reduce because of that issue.
I think I don’t need enclosure mi country by default is set to 30 C and when the bed is on 100 I think is like 40 around the printer.
Thank you for sharing. I'm late to the party... 😅 Just wondering what were your printing parameters? I have an enclosure (COMGROW) and I'm still experiencing some warping when I print ASA. I have a full metal hot end and even tungsten .4 nozzle. I have cooling fan completely turned off throughout the print. I like the COMGROW enclosure better than this one, it has more port holes and they're towards the back (better for the power cord), and one of the holes is round, which looks like I can stick a blow dryer in to increase the temperature higher.
this does not make the power supply over heat being enclosed and not have fresh cool air? i want one for my Ender 3 V2 but i am afraid of that
So far I didn't noticed any problems. But in my basement I have 15°C, in enslosure max 45°C. I can imagine, that somebody's room temperature is (almost) like inside my enclosure ;-)
Awesome video, sad is in English but with subtitles incan understanding. Got video of calibrate extruders? And z? I have ender 3 s1
I have concerns about the heat. I couldn't touch at bottom of the printer even without enclosure. I don't think that much heat is good for electronics in power supply.
I will measure the temperatures soon (in and out)
@@MyTechFunhow much?
Do you think this would be a good enough enclosure for polycarbonate? With a high temp hot end and extruder of cours
Yes. You don't need high temperatures inside. For example 45C is enough, but don't open it to prevent any breeze or moving of air inside.
Have you ever experienced any power supply overheating problems in this enclosure?
I noticed that fan is always ON, I did some safety upgrades (on mainboard fan and holes on PSU cover) ua-cam.com/video/GsymnDDAjiE/v-deo.html
... Today we will make a 3D Printer Enclosure. First you need to print 8 corners. Next you just need to go find 12 sticks, and cut them so they are a bit larger than the sides of your printer. Next you need put the corners and sticks together. Lastly you cover the whole thing with some sheet of aluminium.
i can see a bit of elephant's foot effect. does that mean i have to adjust the printbed temperature a little bit?
what's the fire proof material? I want to build an ikea lack enclosure with that material
Wood is not, aluminium yes (rods inside this enclosure) and "Aluminum film" (I found on the website)
I sure hope you hookled the mainboard fan up to the hotend fan before this.
then don't you need to take the power supply out of the enclosure?
So far not, temp only goes up to 40-45°C inside (in this room temp is 15-20°C). If you want to heat the air inside, then yes, it would be smart to take electronic out.
Arra gondoltam, hogy építek egyet bosch profilból és plexiből.. PETG-t szeretnék nyomtatni, de abban a szobában fér csak el a nyomtató, ahol a legtöbbet vagyok, ezért arra gondoltam, hogy ezt a dobozt még kiegészíteném egy nagyon lassú fordulatú ventillátorral, hogy a lehető legkisebb légáramlást keltsem vele és egy hepa szűrővel (vagy a kár kettővel). Ez mennyire lenne butaság? Nem igen találtam cikket azzal kapcsolatban, hogy milyen hatásai vannak a petg nyomatatása közben felszabadult gázoknak, ezért gondoltam, hogy jobb a békesség és megszűröm a kiáramló gázokat. A doboz moga meg lenne emelve, hogy az elektronika elférjen kényelmesen alatta és alulról be lenne vezetve a motorokhoz és a fejhez az összes vezeték.. a tápegység is így kívülre kerülne, így a motorokon kívül minden kint lenne a dobozból. A nyomtató fej körül csináltam egy burkolatmódosítást HT pla-ból.. eddig annak nem volt baja, pedig közel van a heatbrake-hez és a fűtőblokkhoz, így szerintem kibírná a dobozolást is. Van valami javaslatod/ tapasztalatod ezzel kapcsolatban?
PLA, PETG ok. ABS vagy ASA már kevésbé, ott nagyon is ajánlatos a zárt tér és nem csak a hő miatt, hanem épp a toxikus gázok végett. Hepa szűrő vagy akár direkt kivezetés az ablakba jó megoldás (persze gázok kivezetése a nyomtatás végén, ne legyen áramlás nyomtatás közben). Tápegység, ha megoldható, kívűre ajánlják.
@@MyTechFun Köszönöm szépen a választ :)
about the heat problem 37c is it ok for the power supply and the electronics?
Recently I did some ABS review, temperature went up to 51°C inside. I measured the stepper motors, 79°C. It is good that rest of electronics is lower, below the printer. I was thinking to add some airflowing direction from outside. ua-cam.com/video/YI9dcCAQV1A/v-deo.html
Nice housing, I bought it from Amazon, creality brand, but it didn't make a difference when printing with ABS, still warping like the one without the housing.
Inside temperature between 34-40 depending on the bed temperature.
You need heat soaking the printer. Basically turn up the bed to temp and raise up the nozzle temp to a non melty level, and wait for 30 mins before start printing.
Will there be a problem when i use this with my ender 3s1? And printing abs
I already used it with Ender-3 S1 (now with S1 Pro). Just don't go above 240°C on S1 (because of teflon line hotend). I also moved the screen outside.
@@MyTechFun ok good to know thank you
Doesn't hot air damage the device?
In this basement room the temperature is 15-20°C. Inside enclosure max 40-45°C. That's not much. If you want to use additional heating, then it would be good to move the electronic out. OR redirect fan air from outside (for cooling the elenctronics whats down in printer). Steppers can handle much higher temp.
Wondering if this would work for my Anycubic Kobra..
If it fits inside, why not. Measure it
This costs almost as much as I paid for the printer. 😳
I found it on Amazon for $66
@@HaleyPBear Lucky.
can also print PLA material inside of that enclosure?
For PLA you don't need the enclosure. But if you don't want to take the printer out, just leave the front opened.
❤👍
Do you wait for the inside temp to increases before you do a print and for how long?
In most cases I am printing ASA with 110°C bed temperature. For this it needs almost 10 minutes, during this time temp of the air also goes up almost to desired temperature. After 4-5 layers printed temp of the air is stabilized.
@@MyTechFun Ok! Sound very good 🙂 I'm glad there was not to much waiting time. Thx for the info 👍
@@MyTechFun 110°C is over the glass transition temperature for ASA, which starts to soften at around 95°C
I noticed your test prints have a considerable amount of elephants foot, probably due to that excessive bed temperature.
A heated chamber is the way to go, instead of overheating the bed
@@alejandroperez5368 Hm. Good thinking, but for example PLA has heat deflaction temperature of 50-55°C and everybody is setting the bed to 60°C. Heated chamber is good solution, only I would like to move the electronic outside (not only the display).
@@MyTechFun just a theory here, but it's probably due to they are using glass as a print surface, so in reality they are not getting 60°C at the actual print surface?
So this is safe to leave your ender 3 running all night etc all zipped up without causing any motor or cct board overheating ?
I measured it, no problems with steppers on Ender3. Stepper motors can run on much higher temperature. Critical would be with direct drive extruder, it's near hotend, on my Prusa it works at 60C without enclosure. Not sure about CCT board, I didn't measured that.
would you put a webcam inside?
I'm considering buying an Ender 3 S1 to print board game inserts on PLA or PETG. I need an enclosure to protect the printer from my cats. Do you think this enclure is cat proof?
I don't have cats, only 3 kids. But for PLA you don't want to print in enclosure to prevent heat creeps.
@@MyTechFun Is printing with PETG any trickier than PLA? I'm a total noob on 3D printing.
Im using a prusa mk3s this was my first time that i have printed whith ASA filament from Form futura ApolloX i dont have any kind of enclosure the bed adhesion was great but prints came out to brittle, the interlayer bond wasn't perfect....... So im wondering is an enclosure beneficial for this kind of problems ??? Does the print quality gets better ,im referring to rigidity, not esthetics ???
I don't think this should affect the rigidity. PLA, PETG is much more brittle compared to ABS, ASA. Enclosure mostly helps to prevent warping and cracking.
Thank you ! ,do you have a tip how could i speed up my prints , I was thinking about changing my nozzle from 0.4 to 0.6 diameter what is from your experience the best affordable nozzle and hot end swap for a mk3s ? That is also reliable ? 🙂🤔
Thanks for taking the time to make your videos. I have a couple of suggestions. Don't play the background music. I think many of us would rather listen to natural sounds of your working on the printer, than to the background techno music which interferes with understanding what you are saying when you make comments. Secondly, as someone that was born in Eastern Europe but came to North America as a child, I can understand you well but others may have a more difficult time with your accent. This is nothing to be ashamed of or even worry about. However, if I can correct you on the pronunciation of "warp": You keep saying "wrap" which means a totally different thing than warp. Warp is pronounced "worp". Not trying to be a jerk. Just want to help you so that people can understand what you are saying. Cheers and thanks again for the videos. Ziveli.
- background music, I always try to minimalize it, usually I add it only when longer time without talking (but those "only music" DIY and tutorial videos has 100x more subs than me, probably music would be better then my bad English, but that's not me).
- "Worp" Thx, lesson learned for a life now. Looks like in every video I got similar lessons, scissors without "C" or "K", shear stress is "sheeeer" stress.. :-)
- HVALA!
@@MyTechFun i actually like it with music, tastes :)
I mainly want this to protect me from the fumes. Would this tent keep the fumes inside?
Yes, they do. But it is recommended to install some exhaust pipe with fan, to enable it when printing us done, otherwise smell will go into room when you open the zipper.
@@MyTechFun ahh okay good to know! Thank you
What’s the hole dimension on top?
What about the fumes that asa and abs create iam curious thus putting a vent while prenting reduce the temperature? Can you vent it after printing?
Yes, that's the correct way to do it. Print ASA, ABS in closed enclosure, and ONLY when printing is finished, vent that air out somehow. During the printing not, because it may result some breeze of air, that's not good for these filaments.
FYI.. he means Warping not wrapping
Correct, I learned that in the meantime ;-)
You shouldn't smell ABS fumes
how much quieter would you say the printing was?
5 decibels (measured), here is a comparison table: www.mytechfun.com/3dprinter-noise
How do you know what size to get
I really dislike the added music. I'm often alone in disliking background music so you ought to check with other viewers if they like it or not. The music almost makes the video unwatchable for me.
In general, I really like your videos. I've learned a lot from you. Thank you.
I finished watching the video and the background music got better. I'd still prefer no background music but I'll keep watching your videos if you add it like you did in this video.
Thanks of another interesting video.
Partly I agree with you. I don't prefer music too, and I usually I add lower volume music only when I have longer breaks without talk. Sometimes have smaller exceptions.
@@MyTechFun Whichever way you do it, I'll keep watching. I really like your videos. Thanks.
Can anybody that has cats tell me if this also protects the print from them??
Can this work for a flasforge adv 5m?
If it can fit inside, then yes, BUT better if you make some side and top panels, since you will have nice access to screen and better view to inside.
the mainbord temp ?
Hm. I didn't measured it. Yes, probably makes more sense that temp, instead of measuring the stepper motor temperature.
is it worth it?
Yes. I can see, now the prices is bigger, but I can get 50-51°C inside and I print ABS and similar materials without problems (just don't forget to rewire your mainboard cooling fan if you are using Ender3V2) ua-cam.com/video/GsymnDDAjiE/v-deo.html
The silly huge logo taking up valuable space through which to see the first layer!
The SainSmart version the window is lower, but ugly blue enclosure.
Keep in mind, that the more clear plastic window, defeat purpose of insulated walls. Creality should have moved window lower.
Does it help with the noise of the printer?
Yes, 5 dB, measured with E3V2 www.mytechfun.com/3dprinter-noise
@@MyTechFun thanks
omg just add led lights to the inside lol
I recently got one of these and it was the first thing I did after getting it, the ones made for the ender 3, the UniTak3D 3D Printer Light for about £18 on eBay
This thing its very expensive ...
I agree, it is a little bit pricy, because it is designed for Ender3, a very budget 3D printer. But it really helps with ABS, ASA.