This is one of the reasons the slot car community is growing. Guys like Marty doing this and sharing it. As soon as we get the email from Marty we will be ordering some parts.
I've actually thought the same thing about a track switch when I build my layout... A huge thank you for all that you do for the slot car community, outstanding work Marty!!! Stay Slotted brother 🐷🤙🏼
MARTY it's great that you took initiative to take this on most would have let be what it be. And you now gave the community more options. Again great job
Hi there. Well done Marty! I will reach out to you by E-Mail in the next days to get a scematic non-scematic Plan of that Digital/Analog System. You definetly made it happen. I am very proud of you, getting it done! Have a nice weekend 🙂
This is great stuff Marty. DIY is always very satisfying. It’s why we scratch build and tune cars. Because we like to do things ourselves. This helps the guys that can’t afford the ready made boxes out there. As fantastic as they are, sometimes you just want to build it yourself. Great work!
Thank you for sharing! I will also be reaching out to you for your plans, and maybe parts list right down to the “box” and different types of switches.
Great job Marty for sharing all this for everyone s enjoyment of doing things for themselves and keeping cost down,keep up all you do for the hobby God Bless
Mate, this is like a NASA experiment, you're literally next level!!! Brilliant, you need to frame it and put it on the wall on the race hall behind you 💯
Thanks Marty, very informative!!!!.....Was just gathering info the other day on Controllers which led to me thinking about going analog. Very timely subject matter!!!Enjoy your channel
Aha... The "non-schematic" schematic from the "non electrical" electrical engineer. Looking forward to your next metamorphosis. Well done. Thanks for sharing Marty.
Good work Marty. I'm experimenting with using 12v relays instead of DPDT switches. The idea is you use one switch that activates a series of relays that do the track and power isolations and switching. I'm no electrician either so I'm wrapping my head around a non-schematic schematic like yours.
Power from supply goes into the box to a switch.. and from the switch.. to the CU.. and to the Analog side.. then i used switches to protect the CU when in Analog mode.. it is a very simplistic look at it. I could use an Arduino and some relays to combine some of the switching.. it could be done a million different ways.. but this works.. I use it every day.. Thanks for watching!
Nice job Marty. Why 14ga though? That’s way over kill for a single car per lane in analog, especially for those short runs of wiring? I mean it ain’t a bad thing, but wondering what reasoning is to go with such large gauge wire for a circuit that’s limited to 5-7 amperes?
Thank you Marty !! Have you been able get this to work with the 4 lane track you have now ? I’m about to start on my 4 lane on about a month and would like to still be able to use my tech slot box with my 4 lane 2 digital 4 analog
I do have it working on my track. It takes a bit of work.. but it is possible. Your Tek Slot Box will only do two lanes of digital and analog unless it was specifically built for 4 lanes.
Marty, not really sure why you would need 14AWG wire. It is rated for 15A but as slot car enthusiasts we never really get above 4A to the track. Your 16AWG is fine.
@@twolinesslotcars sorry yes that I know, but you have to isolate the electronics since you are switching the polarity right? This means you have to have wires coming out of every LC to your box?
@@CR3DT Yes, you are switching polarity of the track. The switches protect the CU. The lane changers are not impacted by the polarity change.. they act like standard track when in analog mode. There is a link to my hand drawn schematic in the description. @SlotR did an update to my box using relays, it is much more efficient, but does the exact same thing.
@@twolinesslotcars I was under the impression that if reversed the polarity of the track (let's forgot about the CU for min) and there was an LC, that I would short out and burn out the electronics in the LC unless I isolated them? Sorry if this is the stupid question
@@CR3DT the only digital track piece you have to worry about is the CU and the Corner Lane changer. Because inside those track pieces the lanes are jumpered together. Corner lane changer is easy fix. Open it up and remove the lane jumper inside. The key is that the positive rails are isolated. That is why the lane changers are safe using the convertor box.
I've started this project, but I have another question. The additional wires under the cu track (yellow, blue...) do you leave those hooked up and only use the red and black wires to the new box? Thank you.
The yellow and blue wires go to the lap counting LED’s. Leave them alone.. check out SlotR’s new video from last week.. it is an update and improvement to my design.
Marty I like what you have done so far. I can't find the next video where you said you would open your box and also show us the wiring of the cu and analog straight piece of track. Also can you send your email so I can get a copy of the wiring Thanks so much.
Kevin, there is a link in the description of the video to down load the file. I have yet to release that video because I have made some changes and added lanes to the track.
Marty thank you for the prompt response. I have the same 2 lane track that you had before you went 4 lane, and am considering going also with your 4 lane track. I downloaded the non schematic and wired my track identical to yours. The digital works and the analog works but the controller in analog runs both lanes at the same time no matter which station I am hooked to. When I run the digital track I use my original Carrera power supply hooked to the CU. For analog I use a variable 3v/10a power supply hooked to the main switch in my new power box. Can't use a multimeter worth a crap. I have a second CU for this that is not yet hooked to my track so I am doing this on my work bench. Also on my track I was able to successfully wire in an Axel BOX which works great, but like you can't use my old analog controllers. Thanks for time, and am looking forward to going 4 lanes if I can get the 2 lanes to work properly. Kevin
@@kevinclayton3179 if in analog mode your controller still controls both lanes.. you do not have your lanes isolated. My guess would be that your lanes are still connected in the CU. That is only a guess.
This is excellent Marty!!! I’ve been dreaming about creating my own conversation box. I’m a structural engineer and not so much electrical so I hadn’t made much progress. Thank you for sharing your ideas and experiences it’s greatly appreciated!!!
Im using 18awg. Should be fine. Easier to route. Im an engineer, my electrical knowledge is not incredible though. More of a jack of all trades (Support Engineer)
I don't think it will be a problem for him as a lot of Carrera fans will continue to not use the analog pro controllers and still use their Carrera or other brand of wireless controllers that even if wired are CU friendly. So the Axel box and Tek box and hmm Dig-A-Box and any others that show up will continue to have customers. It seems this is for pro analog racers as is the omnibox where not running the CU when racing hot motors for those pro analog cars . But I am interested for one big reason: Save the CU !!
This is one of the reasons the slot car community is growing. Guys like Marty doing this and sharing it. As soon as we get the email from Marty we will be ordering some parts.
Thanks man! I really appreciate it.. just want to help people!
Away we go. already know what my thoughts are.
Thanks Dafingers1!
This is the first time that I have been the first to view one of your videos - totally amazed.
I've actually thought the same thing about a track switch when I build my layout... A huge thank you for all that you do for the slot car community, outstanding work Marty!!!
Stay Slotted brother 🐷🤙🏼
Thanks so much for the kind words!!
MARTY it's great that you took initiative to take this on most would have let be what it be. And you now gave the community more options. Again great job
Thanks man!
Hi there. Well done Marty!
I will reach out to you by E-Mail in the next days to get a scematic non-scematic Plan of that Digital/Analog System.
You definetly made it happen. I am very proud of you, getting it done!
Have a nice weekend 🙂
Sounds good!
Good stuff Marty
Thanks Frankie!
Great job Marty , looks like a lot of work.
Thanks Gary!
Awesome stuff Marty! 🙌🏻
Thanks! 👍
This is great stuff Marty. DIY is always very satisfying. It’s why we scratch build and tune cars. Because we like to do things ourselves. This helps the guys that can’t afford the ready made boxes out there. As fantastic as they are, sometimes you just want to build it yourself. Great work!
Thanks bro! I appreciate the kind words.
Outstanding Marty appreciate all your help and all your knowledge this will help me tremendously. Thanks again.
Very welcome!
Thank you for sharing! I will also be reaching out to you for your plans, and maybe parts list right down to the “box” and different types of switches.
I will work on inventory list.. link in the description!
Great job Marty for sharing all this for everyone s enjoyment of doing things for themselves and keeping cost down,keep up all you do for the hobby God Bless
Thanks Phil! I appreciate the kind words.God Bless!
G'day Marty fantastic work just amazing
Thank you so much 😀
Mate, this is like a NASA experiment, you're literally next level!!! Brilliant, you need to frame it and put it on the wall on the race hall behind you 💯
Thanks Pete! 😂
Thanks Marty, very informative!!!!.....Was just gathering info the other day on Controllers which led to me thinking about going analog. Very timely subject matter!!!Enjoy your channel
Glad I could help! Let me know if you have questions.
Thank you for the detailed explanation of this circuit. I am strongly considering doing the same for my track so I can use my DiFalco as well.
Glad it was helpful! There are many improvements that can be made.. but know that this version works great!
Thanks, great info on this matter and others through out you channel. Thank You...
Thank you for tuning in!
Excellent!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Aha...
The "non-schematic" schematic from the "non electrical" electrical engineer. Looking forward to your next metamorphosis.
Well done. Thanks for sharing Marty.
Thanks MadP.. I’m a marketing guy 😂
Hi Marty,
I made this using your info, and works well thank you - Cheers
Excellent! Great to hear you had success!
Good work Marty. I'm experimenting with using 12v relays instead of DPDT switches. The idea is you use one switch that activates a series of relays that do the track and power isolations and switching. I'm no electrician either so I'm wrapping my head around a non-schematic schematic like yours.
Great idea, my brother and I have been discussing a better way for version 2.. if we ever get that far. Mine is simple and crude.. but it works!
Marty, wow, you are way a head of me on this wiring stuff. I would like to get a copy of your schematic but not sure how to go about getting it.
Thanks Richard.. link in the description!
Great video Marty, isthere a way to get a copy of your schematics to try to do it myself?
Link in the description!!
Hi marty been waiting all week for this video, how do we get a wiring diagram? Your effort is greatly appreciated,Harold.
Harold.. send me an email theT5guy@gmail.com
Marty, is your Tekslots box still attached in this ?
No, not at the moment.
I don't think I understand how the digital CU gets power. Is it from the track? I love this idea!
Power from supply goes into the box to a switch.. and from the switch.. to the CU.. and to the Analog side.. then i used switches to protect the CU when in Analog mode.. it is a very simplistic look at it. I could use an Arduino and some relays to combine some of the switching.. it could be done a million different ways.. but this works.. I use it every day.. Thanks for watching!
Thanks Marty
Very welcome
Nice job Marty. Why 14ga though? That’s way over kill for a single car per lane in analog, especially for those short runs of wiring? I mean it ain’t a bad thing, but wondering what reasoning is to go with such large gauge wire for a circuit that’s limited to 5-7 amperes?
Thanks Joseph.. I was going to ask you about this.. I used 16g.. I have had zero issues.
I’ve done about what you have I have 4 lane changes but the one just won’t let me run analog maybe you can send me what you did thank you so much
Bruce, 4 lane seems to be a challenge from a digital stand point.. I will help however I can..
Great work, Marty! Always enjoy your content!
Other than Facebook Messenger how can I reach out to you to get the non schematic schematics?
In the description! Thanks man!
Thank you Marty !! Have you been able get this to work with the 4 lane track you have now ? I’m about to start on my 4 lane on about a month and would like to still be able to use my tech slot box with my 4 lane 2 digital 4 analog
I do have it working on my track. It takes a bit of work.. but it is possible. Your Tek Slot Box will only do two lanes of digital and analog unless it was specifically built for 4 lanes.
Marty, not really sure why you would need 14AWG wire. It is rated for 15A but as slot car enthusiasts we never really get above 4A to the track. Your 16AWG is fine.
Thanks for confirming!!! I thought I was good.. but there are lots of opinions out there.
@@twolinesslotcars 35 years a commercial/industrial electrician my friend. 😎
@@consco3667 thanks!! I really am a newbie when it comes to wiring.. thanks for the knowledge share and advice!
@@twolinesslotcars anytime you have a question just ask
Hot stuff ! What would you estimate the max cost of parts for this? Thanks⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
$75? Depending on what you might have on hand already..
so what happens with all your lanechangers and pit lane?
They are not operational in analog mode. but operate like regular track peices.
@@twolinesslotcars sorry yes that I know, but you have to isolate the electronics since you are switching the polarity right? This means you have to have wires coming out of every LC to your box?
@@CR3DT Yes, you are switching polarity of the track. The switches protect the CU. The lane changers are not impacted by the polarity change.. they act like standard track when in analog mode. There is a link to my hand drawn schematic in the description. @SlotR did an update to my box using relays, it is much more efficient, but does the exact same thing.
@@twolinesslotcars I was under the impression that if reversed the polarity of the track (let's forgot about the CU for min) and there was an LC, that I would short out and burn out the electronics in the LC unless I isolated them? Sorry if this is the stupid question
@@CR3DT the only digital track piece you have to worry about is the CU and the Corner Lane changer. Because inside those track pieces the lanes are jumpered together. Corner lane changer is easy fix. Open it up and remove the lane jumper inside. The key is that the positive rails are isolated. That is why the lane changers are safe using the convertor box.
I've started this project, but I have another question. The additional wires under the cu track (yellow, blue...) do you leave those hooked up and only use the red and black wires to the new box? Thank you.
The yellow and blue wires go to the lap counting LED’s. Leave them alone.. check out SlotR’s new video from last week.. it is an update and improvement to my design.
I will, thank you very much!
Marty I like what you have done so far. I can't find the next video where you said you would open your box and also show us the wiring of the cu and analog straight piece of track. Also can you send your email so I can get a copy of the wiring
Thanks so much.
Kevin, there is a link in the description of the video to down load the file. I have yet to release that video because I have made some changes and added lanes to the track.
Marty thank you for the prompt response. I have the same 2 lane track that you had before you went 4 lane, and am considering going also with your 4 lane track. I downloaded the non schematic and wired my track identical to yours. The digital works and the analog works but the controller in analog runs both lanes at the same time no matter which station I am hooked to.
When I run the digital track I use my original Carrera power supply hooked to the CU.
For analog I use a variable 3v/10a power supply hooked to the main switch in my new power box. Can't use a multimeter worth a crap.
I have a second CU for this that is not yet hooked to my track so I am doing this on my work bench. Also on my track I was able to successfully wire in an Axel BOX which works great, but like you can't use my old analog controllers. Thanks for time, and am looking forward to going 4 lanes if I can get the 2 lanes to work properly.
Kevin
@@kevinclayton3179 if in analog mode your controller still controls both lanes.. you do not have your lanes isolated. My guess would be that your lanes are still connected in the CU. That is only a guess.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks bro!
Can I have a copy marty
Phil, did you find the link in the description? you can always email me as well.
Would love to get a copy
@@philrusso1979 link is in the description!
This is excellent Marty!!! I’ve been dreaming about creating my own conversation box. I’m a structural engineer and not so much electrical so I hadn’t made much progress. Thank you for sharing your ideas and experiences it’s greatly appreciated!!!
@@Cad1900 I should do an update.. We found some diodes we can put in place of most of the switches..
Im using 18awg. Should be fine. Easier to route. Im an engineer, my electrical knowledge is not incredible though. More of a jack of all trades (Support Engineer)
Your layout is beautiful. Mine is good but it's 8x12, 15.25M length
My design has 4 switches might get it down to 3.
You should be fine.. I think what I used is over kill now that I know more.. I learned a lot through this project.
I really can’t understand why Carrera and others aren’t just making a terminal track that has a easy damn switch built in for analog or digital use !
I could not agree more.. the sell both digital and analog cars… 🤷🏻♂️
Awesome info, but I doubt the guy making the Axle Box is happy with you 🤣
I don't think it will be a problem for him as a lot of Carrera fans will continue to not use the analog pro controllers and still use their Carrera or other brand of wireless controllers that even if wired are CU friendly. So the Axel box and Tek box and hmm Dig-A-Box and any others that show up will continue to have customers. It seems this is for pro analog racers as is the omnibox where not running the CU when racing hot motors for those pro analog cars . But I am interested for one big reason: Save the CU !!
Axel box is different that what Marty is doing.
@@dannywiley4072 Yep and so is the Tek Box and Digi Box .