Thanks for the info that different clutches use different fluids. Mine, KTM SMT, uses mineral oil according to the manual. P.S. Why not just get two syringes; one to push, one to suck. That way you avoid the mess at the top.
@@slaverace1 I just use an old Turkey Baster to draw off the reservoir as I pump in fresh fluid from below. Spit it into a jar nearby so I don't have to leave the bike.
Weird. A lot of ppl in the forums say the o ring in the slave cylinder can't handle brake fluid for long (despite the recommendation). The only thing i see with the mineral oil, is it is too thick to properly travel through the master cylinder (outside of viscosity, its not gonna do more damage than brake fluid on a seal). And once that seal breaks, you're looking at brakefluid leaking into your oil. I'd rather mineral oil mix in there than brake fluid any day. Magura recalled master brake cylinders and it sounds like they need to recall the clutch slave cylinders on the 2018 oem parts. I feel the only reason they haven't done it is because it won't get ppl hurt. Its just a garbage part with no aftermarket replacement. More $$ for magura
Thank you for the excellent video Jeff. One question, at the very end then you removed the bleeder screw that was attached to the syringe, you put your finger over the hole to prevent fluid from coming out, quickly unscrewed it, and then quickly screwed in the stock bleeder screw to finish the job. Is there another way to do this? I lose a lots of fluid this way. Before you remove the screw, could you zip tie the clutch lever so the line is closed, and then remove syringe bleeder screw and install stock bleeder screw? I was wondering if this would prevent fluid loss.
Hey Jeff, This may be an amateur question but I recently replaced the clutch plates on my Ktm which has the dds clutch in it. I back bled the clutch but it still seems to creep forward on me until the lever is pretty well all the way to the grip. Is it likely there’s still air in the line causing it to release a little late or should I be looking more at say the adjusting ring outside the bevel spring? Thanks in advance truly appreciate the videos. Cheers
Jeff........I have the same scenario, using a genuine clutch in a 2020 300 TPI.....I will be reverse bleeding the clutch line again in case I missed some air.....have you got any advise please?
I also have this issue. I bought a 2017 300XC and there was only gunk left in the master reservoir. Tried to drain and bleed it but cant budge it. I’m guessing either the master or slave cylinders are maybe jammed?
In my little sight glass window of the front break master it appears to only be about 65% full of liquid and the rest of space above is an air bubble is this normal?
Hi Jeff. Thanks for the great video. I have a quick question. You say in your video rather to use DOT 4 as it’s better. Why’s that? I’m having an issue with my clutch that when i gets used a fair amount and assuming it heats up in the the tech slow stuff my leaver all of a sudden goes very soft and no clutch. Then I’ll have to leave it for a minute or so then back to normal. Clutch in not slipping an no grooves in the basket. It was bled 2 months back when i replaced all seals. I’m running 5.1 at the moment. Do you think there might be air in the system and/or should I switch to Dot 4? Would appreciate any guidance here please? Thanks.
5.1 was originally designed for street bike use and is not a high performance fluid. Every time your lever goes soft the fluid has boiled and is junk and should be replaced. Use Motul 660 slavensracing.com/shop/rbf660-pro-racing-brake-fluid-by-motul/ for better results.
Are those the new Flex bars that were covered in your $20K 300XC video? When will they be available? I here it's soon, I need new bars, but I'm waiting to see the new ones.
Is this basically how you adjust your clutch? I have a 2015 ktm 300xc and my clutch grabs right away. How would I adjust that? Thanks for all your great videos Jeff.
@@slaverace1 it’s not that even when I remove the hand clutch and pump it it still would not hold its ended up being some hairline scratched on my crush washers
I've tried every way with mine it's not wanting to gravity bleed this way or anyway I rebuilt slave cylinder got new clutch line new master slave cylinder does this mean I need a new clutch plates or whole new slave cylinder please I'm tired I'm spending money I'm about to just buy recluse auto and say he'll with it
Jesse: I don't "gravity feed" it. I push the fluid from the bottom to the top. Sounds like you need to find help locally from someone who is experienced at bleeding clutches. You have purchased several parts that you probably did not need and NO, you do not need plates.
Can these systems not be bled from the top down with a vacuum bleeder? This kit is nice but I have a Capri vacuum bleeder on the shelf so I've been wondering about that.
The extra fitting has an o-ring on it that you can snug down. This prevents the syringe from pushing air through the system introduced through the threads of the fitting. It’s not absolutely necessary but does help. You can purge the air at that fitting by doing a normal lever pump bleed at the very end of the job.
Who else saw the fat air bubble in that hose haha. Thanks for the vid
Thanks for the info that different clutches use different fluids. Mine, KTM SMT, uses mineral oil according to the manual. P.S. Why not just get two syringes; one to push, one to suck. That way you avoid the mess at the top.
That would be fine if you have a helper. My time working on bikes is private time.
@@slaverace1 I just use an old Turkey Baster to draw off the reservoir as I pump in fresh fluid from below. Spit it into a jar nearby so I don't have to leave the bike.
Wow I made a mess yesterday... guess I'll have to do it this way as soon as the kit arrives.
Weird. A lot of ppl in the forums say the o ring in the slave cylinder can't handle brake fluid for long (despite the recommendation). The only thing i see with the mineral oil, is it is too thick to properly travel through the master cylinder (outside of viscosity, its not gonna do more damage than brake fluid on a seal). And once that seal breaks, you're looking at brakefluid leaking into your oil. I'd rather mineral oil mix in there than brake fluid any day. Magura recalled master brake cylinders and it sounds like they need to recall the clutch slave cylinders on the 2018 oem parts. I feel the only reason they haven't done it is because it won't get ppl hurt. Its just a garbage part with no aftermarket replacement. More $$ for magura
You must have forgotten to turn on the BS filter on your computer before getting on the forums.
Thank you for the excellent video Jeff. One question, at the very end then you removed the bleeder screw that was attached to the syringe, you put your finger over the hole to prevent fluid from coming out, quickly unscrewed it, and then quickly screwed in the stock bleeder screw to finish the job. Is there another way to do this? I lose a lots of fluid this way. Before you remove the screw, could you zip tie the clutch lever so the line is closed, and then remove syringe bleeder screw and install stock bleeder screw? I was wondering if this would prevent fluid loss.
Hello: Probably are other methods, but I've been doing it this way for many years with great success.
Jeff, what is the procedure for bleeding the clutch master cylinder with an adjustable rekluse slave cylinder?
Same as bleeding the original. Push the fluid from the bottom up.
Hey Jeff,
This may be an amateur question but I recently replaced the clutch plates on my Ktm which has the dds clutch in it. I back bled the clutch but it still seems to creep forward on me until the lever is pretty well all the way to the grip. Is it likely there’s still air in the line causing it to release a little late or should I be looking more at say the adjusting ring outside the bevel spring? Thanks in advance truly appreciate the videos. Cheers
Jeff........I have the same scenario, using a genuine clutch in a 2020 300 TPI.....I will be reverse bleeding the clutch line again in case I missed some air.....have you got any advise please?
Hey Jeff I cant get fluid to go up the line and into the master its like it’s clogged or something
What could it be ?
Is the lever slightly pushed in by the handguard or is there no freeplay in the lever?
I also have this issue.
I bought a 2017 300XC and there was only gunk left in the master reservoir. Tried to drain and bleed it but cant budge it.
I’m guessing either the master or slave cylinders are maybe jammed?
I bought a magura bleeder syringe and it didn't come with a bleeder fitting for the hose can I just use the bleeder that's on the slave cylinder?
Yes, if you can get the hose to fit and stay on.
In my little sight glass window of the front break master it appears to only be about 65% full of liquid and the rest of space above is an air bubble is this normal?
Definitely not optimal.
@@slaverace1 shit bike only has 4 hours on it does it just need topped off with fluid and bled? Why is it like this you think?
Hi Jeff. Thanks for the great video. I have a quick question. You say in your video rather to use DOT 4 as it’s better. Why’s that? I’m having an issue with my clutch that when i gets used a fair amount and assuming it heats up in the the tech slow stuff my leaver all of a sudden goes very soft and no clutch. Then I’ll have to leave it for a minute or so then back to normal. Clutch in not slipping an no grooves in the basket. It was bled 2 months back when i replaced all seals. I’m running 5.1 at the moment. Do you think there might be air in the system and/or should I switch to Dot 4? Would appreciate any guidance here please? Thanks.
5.1 was originally designed for street bike use and is not a high performance fluid. Every time your lever goes soft the fluid has boiled and is junk and should be replaced. Use Motul 660 slavensracing.com/shop/rbf660-pro-racing-brake-fluid-by-motul/ for better results.
@@slaverace1 Thanks for the feedback! Appreciate it! Will make the change asap.
@@slaverace1MOTUL 660, Belray racing brake fluid or Motorex DOT 5.1? Which one is best for KTM XCW/EXC?
Thank you . Great Video, exactly what I was looking for.
Help. I tried that way of spraying, but still there is no liquid going into the tank next to the handle.
Are those the new Flex bars that were covered in your $20K 300XC video? When will they be available? I here it's soon, I need new bars, but I'm waiting to see the new ones.
BJ
Manufacturers send me prototype and pre-production products to test because I'm very experienced and they trust me with their secrets.
Its crazy people say the same thing about dot 4 in mine except mine says mineral oil on the reservoir cap.
Cool do a brake bleeding video too!
good video i could of swarn removing the bleed bolt would of let air in but obviously not
How about the motoex stuff that’s meant to go in ktm’s
You recommend 4 over 5.1?..What would be the difference?
I recommend you use a high quality fluid (like Motul 600 or 660) with a high boiling point but don't get hung up on DOT 4 or 5.1.
Thanks Jeff!
Is this basically how you adjust your clutch? I have a 2015 ktm 300xc and my clutch grabs right away. How would I adjust that? Thanks for all your great videos Jeff.
No. The only adjustment is the lever position. There is no clutch adjustment. All KTM clutches have some drag.
You should've bought a Cadillac.
Level your master cylinder. No over spill.
The master cylinder must be tilted back and forth to bleed it correctly, as shown in the video.
does this method also apply for front and rear brake lines?
Yes.
what footpegs are those ?
I tried that it won’t go past the hand clutch , what does that mean ?
Hello:
Sounds like your lever is partially depressed by the hand guard or it has no freeplay.
@@slaverace1 it’s not that even when I remove the hand clutch and pump it it still would not hold its ended up being some hairline scratched on my crush washers
Very helpful
what is the adaptors for why cant the hose just go on my stock bleeder??
There are many ways to skin a cat.
AJ Re clean your bleeder good and use it. Works great.
I've tried every way with mine it's not wanting to gravity bleed this way or anyway I rebuilt slave cylinder got new clutch line new master slave cylinder does this mean I need a new clutch plates or whole new slave cylinder please I'm tired I'm spending money I'm about to just buy recluse auto and say he'll with it
Jesse:
I don't "gravity feed" it. I push the fluid from the bottom to the top. Sounds like you need to find help locally from someone who is experienced at bleeding clutches. You have purchased several parts that you probably did not need and NO, you do not need plates.
Can these systems not be bled from the top down with a vacuum bleeder? This kit is nice but I have a Capri vacuum bleeder on the shelf so I've been wondering about that.
Probably can be. I just offer simple solutions for the average Joe.
Yes. It's just better to chase any trapped air up instead of down.
A syringe is best for bikes because the system holds very little fluid. Vacuum bleeding is best for auto's.
Why would you use a different fitting to bleed it? Seemed an extra unneeded step
The extra fitting has an o-ring on it that you can snug down. This prevents the syringe from pushing air through the system introduced through the threads of the fitting. It’s not absolutely necessary but does help. You can purge the air at that fitting by doing a normal lever pump bleed at the very end of the job.
I noticed the master cylinder was empty when you started, was that because you bleed it first before starting?
I remove most of the fluid before bleeding it.
Jeff, do you sell the kit without the Magura fluid?
The kit is made by Magura so it is only sold with the Magura blood.