I'm trying to understand why in the world you'd go through all the effort of drawing, pattern making, casting, and then cutting a new gear when you've brazed hundreds of broken teeth in the past. Was there something about the broken gear that made you think the braze wouldn't be strong enough- especially when the gear sees only the load of a hand spun blower fan!? This seems like an expensive and odd choice for the repair.
Maybe it’s just content he’s making, although he seems to have plenty of projects going on. It seems with a lot of his jobs, he’s trying to make them good as new or just like new. It’s still fun watching.
Just as we thought the Jimmy Diresta bandsaw was going to get finished! It would be faster to braze it now and get it working to go back to the bandsaw and later get the gear cast and cut the teeth.
Morning Keith, if you have a metal angle gauge, the type that pivots and locks with a thumb nut, just stick it to the pipe with thin neo magnets. The first pipe bend sets the needed angle (resultant from your inch drop), such that when the vertical compass leg disappears plumb with the bender frame, you're good to go for the other legs.
Your craftsmanship makes me think of my brother. He would rather have the fun of restoring something old and make it like new instead of buying a brand new item. Most often resulting in having something better than you can buy off the shelf.
I like how the "wood side" of your shop has become a secondary wing of your metal shop. Not too many wood projects unfortunately, I sure would like to see some! Love your channel, Keith!
Check out the history of Black Bear Forge. He was a woodworker that wanted some woodworking tools he couldn't find, now he's a blacksmith and still hasn't made the tools he started blacksmithing to make.
I've had to deal with loose ball bearings like that and learned to put grease on the race and embed the balls in the grease. It helps reduce the aggravation by about 40%.
Agreed. Vaseline works well in a pinch. Put a big dish towel on your work table to catch balls that will inevitably fall out during the re-assembly process, unless like Keith you are buying packs of 100 balls. Even then, balls on the floor of your workspace can be a nuisance underfoot.
There are lots of ways to skin a cat. I’ve done exactly that before. But at the end of the day, it’s easy enough to just make a new one like the original and never have to worry about it.
Greetings from the sunny UK! Nice to see this project again. But I'm really surprised that you chose NOT to repair but replace with new! We know you can recut helical gears and for the amount of use you suggest you are going to be getting out of this forge, casting then cutting 87 new teeth (instead of just 1) seems to be an overly expensive option. Was there some other problems with the gear that you didn't explain?
Blower Bearing is on par with what you see in period bicycles. The inner race should be removable by tapping on the backside with a punch. To get the ball bearings to sit in the race you need to first pack the race with thick grease, then the ball bearings will stick in place. Now, picking up the ball bearings and holding them? I've seen speicalty tools that looked like tweezers with spoon bills, and I've seen some use a weak magnet on a wand, but using fingers work too.
They still are very common on bicycles, at least here in the Netherlands on city-bikes. And as said, using some thick grease makes it pretty easy to reassemble them. I've repaired many bikes but never had the need to replace the race, only some new balls and off we go for many more miles ehhh kilometers
Since these bearings will be rotating with relatively high rpm, i would use just enough grease to keep the balls from falling out and after assembly put a lot of oil in them to make the grease as thin as possible. Filling the bearings with a lot of thick grease would add a significant amount of resistance, so it would be harder to turn the crank..
@Henning S. I doubt if that'll work. There's no seal or whatever on the shaft, so I'm afraid oil just disappears very quickly. A good quality grease (Lithium) may do a better job
@@diederik998 if the oil mixes with the small amount of grease it will turn into low viscosity grease which is still viscous enough to stay in place. When I occasionally need a little bit of low viscosity grease, I always mix it myself instead of buying some, usually approx. 20% grease mixed with 80% gear oil...
I’m a little surprised that Keith doesn’t cut the bottom of the legs so they sit flat on the floor rather than having just small amount of contact with the edge of the pipe like it is now. It would be less likely to slide around that way but it did seem pretty solid when Keith was testing it out. Probably not worried about it but the way it is now it could scratch up his floor just from moving around or when he’s cranking the blower. Going good so far and it looks like we get another gear cutting video which are always good to watch.
the end of the legs need to be flat with the floor, not 30 degrees with it. You need to go back to your set up and mark with the table, not 90 to the pipe.
Seems like in the past if you had something with a lot of rust on it you'd start off by putting it in a tub with rust remover. Lately it seems like you just don't do that anymore. True? If so, why the change?
I still use the Evaporust a hood bit but more on larger parts that are not as easy or fast to clean. Main reason is cost - I save the Evaporust for the more difficult parts as the wire wheel is a lot cheaper.
Hi Keith, quick question about babbitt bearing scraping. I work at an old grist mill. The shafts that support the stone (~2000lb) terminate in a babbitt thrust bearing of sorts. Essentially just a square cup filled with babbitt with a divot formed for the base of the shaft. The shaft end itself is domed with an ~1" radius. The former bearing wore out. Pouring the babbitt isn't new, but I'm curious how you would scrape the babbitt. I haven't found a scraper that fits it.
You could use a dull hand file and grind the needed radius to the end, basically like a regular scraper for scraping flat. Then you can scrape the divot by holding that scraper upright and pulling it to your body. Never tried that, but I think it will work...
My father used to have a little Buffalo Forge that he conveniently turned into a BBQ Pit and that was our Barbecue Pit for many years Anna's kids playing in the neighborhood if you ran the blower handle backwards it made a post-apocalyptic sound that sounded like a siren and we be in the backyard playing g.i. Joe or some shit and all of the sudden the aliens would attack and you'd hear the post-apocalyptic siren what it was to be a kid LOLOLOL
Someone else has probably made this comment already... I'm a 20+ yr microscope fine mechanic/machinist... typically when dealing with loose ball bearings, completely fill in the races by embedding the balls in grease and then remove 1. Most people wouldn't think it's possible for chrome plated steel ball bearings to "bog down" but just like you have to have clearance and relief on cutting edges, you have to allow bearings a certain amount of "play" in loose (non caged) bearings... don't over-tighten either or you'll spoil the races.
Hi Keith n Australia we use the pipe benders in the Horizontal plane not vertically as you did I find they work better and I mark the angle I need with wielders chalk on the flat of the bender and it works well hope that helps James.
Hi Keith i was saying get some clamps . If a guy didn't want to cast a blank what alloy steel plate or round stock would you choose . Thanks for all the cool video . JM
If I were going to machine the gear from soils stock, I would have chosen cast iron. Why, because that’s what the original gear was made from. Also, the smaller gears that mate with these are steel and you get very good wear with cast iron on steel - better than steel on steel.
Mhen ever Keith works on the "Wood side" of his shop I smile. I would have done that with my port-o-band and a grinder. It might have been about 50% as effective, but 0% as cool
I'll be interested in seeing how you cut an 87 tooth gear, Keith. Being indivisible by any number, may be you have an 87 hole plate for your dividing head.
Wishing these kind of things were comm,on around here. Took 5yrs to find a decent post vise, although once I got it home, found out it was a bit bigger than normal, i.e. 90lb, 5.5" jaws, dated 1896, no other markings, or identifiable features. After 6-87yrs dabbling in blacksmithing, I've still got no more than a brake drum forge with as hair drier blower.
Regarding off the shelf gears, perhaps constraining your search to an exact match to your 14 pitch, 87 tooth gear is asking a bit too much. Perhaps if you were willing to consider changing the little gear this 87 tooth gear mates to, you might have more success finding a new pair of gears that will serve you well enough. EG if you can only get 16 pitch gears, but can get one in near the same diameter as the 87 tooth original and a little gear that's the correct dimensions to match it, then you'd be off to the races. Exact ratio matching wouldn't be absolutely necessary.
surprised you are not going for a brazed fix on the gear. For you a simple job.. Seems like with the low use that will see compared to it's history it would survive a brazed tooth. You used to do that quite often.
Cup and cone bearings with loose ball bearings. Takes me back to when I worked in a cycle repair shop. 1/4" was the standard size for the bottom bracket.
No way those legs would have been even if I was to bend and cut and install them. I would have spent another hour grinding to get it to sit flat. Keith is that good and maybe a little lucky. Thanks for the video.
Not just for forging? Might this become a great place to heat large pieces of cast iron prior to brazing? Even heating, without having to use a lot of gas??
I thoroughly enjoy watching Keith's various projects. It seems like there is nothing he can't make. Thanks for hours and hours of interesting content. In this episode I wonder if a gear like this could be made from a peace of round cast.
i took a 6" x 1 " strip and bent a 90 in it and tigged it to cylinder and added another tab on frame itself for repeatable bends , also i added the hydrulic 20 ton jack from harbor friegt works great
I love the content you post. You are so down to earth about everything. The suspense of not knowing what you are going to make for Jimmy's band saw is killing me! Can't wait!
Really surprised you don't braze in a new tooth on the gear wheel. Seems a lot of trouble and expense to cast & machine a new gear. I'd understand if it were a machine part but it is a hand operated gear with attendant low forces. It's also a hidden part and anyway I enjoy your brazing!
An old fart like me thinks the modern day stuff is out of this world. Push a few buttons and ping it spits it out. But it takes it a journey man to make it happen. 5 years for me 60 years ago and still learning. I thought I was good but not that good. Never to late to learn. NZ.
It would have been exactly the same from a stability standpoint on the floor as on the bench - just not as far to fall when it falls over. Much more comfortable working at bench height and once clamped, completely stable whereas it would still be moving all over the place on the floor.
I’ve never seen nuts that size with tapered pipe threads although they may exist. If the threads start to loosen from heat pinning them might be a better option.
@@ellieprice363, Once Keith puts that bracing on the legs they shouldn’t be able to loosen up, well, like you said he can always pin them or put a set screw on them if there’s a problem. Fun little project!
This may have been asked already but…. Why did you cut the feet perpendicular to the pipe and not parallel to the floor? This, IMHO, would have given a larger downward ‘footprint’?
These were my thoughts exactly. How did you determine the direction of the bend when the thread was tightened up? I would have fully tightened each straight leg and marked the direction of the required flair before making the bend. May be this is what you did. Either way you did a great job.
It looks like you are trying to make the braces for the legs fit on the inner diameter, did you try it with the brace flipped over, having the ends wrap around the legs? I feel you probably have but it seemed like a simple thing to miss.
Can also make the blank for the gear using a cast iron blank, an annular cutter and the rotary table on the mill. I had to do one very fast, less than three days a few years ago, and it went pretty fast that way. All the holes are programmable with the DRO and the final cuts are just milling ops using the rotary table to rotate and the mill to cut the spokes to relieve the blanks. I never measured the total time from cast iron blank to gear blank, but i think it took me 7~8 hours with a few breaks. The idea is not original, i first saw this done by one of the mini steam engine makers ages ago at the dawn of UA-cam, all i did was scale the gear they cut to 30 cm OD. One of my first big size projects on the mill actually, i was pretty chuffed with how it came out in the end.
A possibly stupid question: I noticed your design for the gear had no dimensions. Does the number of teeth together with the tooth pitch tell you how big the gear will be?
The design did have dimensions, they were just not shown on the printout I made. OD was calculated from the pitch and number of teeth and the rest of the dimensions came from the old original gear.
Joe Pie has a video on cutting those spokes in a gear with a rotary table. He makes it look easy enough. McMaster sells those cast disc for making lapping plates, and I bet they have one close enough in size to make your gear. It will probably be much simpler for you to have one cast since you've "got a guy," though.
It’s easy and cheap enough to just cast it properly to begin with. The cast iron blank will probably cost more than what the casting costs to have poured and it’s much easier to print a pattern on a 3D printer than machining out those spokes. Either way works, but I think the way I’m doing it is easier, as cost effective and you end up with a part more like the original.
@VintageMachinery I'm curious what it would cost to have one cast. I guess I'm the sort that just figures that it would cost a fortune, so I never call to get an estimate in situations where I can go online, source the materials, and know what it's going to cost. I believe McMaster has an oversized 10" x 3/4" cast disc for about $56. I don't usually figure in the cost of my labor because 9 times out of 10, I'm working on my own things. In your follow-up video, it might be interesting to the viewers to know what Windy Hill Foundry would charge a person off the street to cast that part.
Nice to have the right tools for the job. Even better is to rescue old equipment, restore them and put them to use to fill that need for the project. Thanks for sharing.
When you go to put the bearings back into the blower you can use a bit of grease to stick them into place. I used to do that with bicycle rims but the principal is the same. The reason we used to do that with bikes is that the cage would degrade to the point where it would mess up the races.
If you bend pipe again count the full pump strokes and give each pipe the same number of pumps and you will get the same angle of bend. I agree with some of the other comments, the legs need some sort of feet on them. Maybe a nice brass ball with a protrusion to drive into the pipe. I love you videos and if I were nearby I would volunteer to assist when you need another set of hands.
I think he missed his mark when cutting the pipes, the way he marked them on the table was correct (making sure the cut was parallel to the floor and the vertical pipe perpendicular) but when he put the pipe on the band saw he cut them perpendicular to the bent part of the pipe ending up with just a point of contact to the floor
The ball bearings look to be the same as a bicycle front wheel bearings you can get them at a bicycle shop in a cage to booth
I'm trying to understand why in the world you'd go through all the effort of drawing, pattern making, casting, and then cutting a new gear when you've brazed hundreds of broken teeth in the past. Was there something about the broken gear that made you think the braze wouldn't be strong enough- especially when the gear sees only the load of a hand spun blower fan!? This seems like an expensive and odd choice for the repair.
He wanted to build a gear! It's his show, get over it!
Just build up the missing tooth with braze and re-cut it! It'll out last you!
Making a new gear will outlast my great grandkids….
It seems crazy to cast a whole new gear wheel and cut 87 teeth. I would braze a piece of cast iron into the gap and just mill one tooth.
This decision has me scratching my head, too. It's not like he's never done that before.
@@cyrilhudak4568 Agreed. That application is neither high torque, nor high speed. All that for one tooth? There is something else in the mix.
If brazing is not acceptable, why not a high nickel rod TIG weld buildup followed by remachining the tooth.
Maybe it’s just content he’s making, although he seems to have plenty of projects going on. It seems with a lot of his jobs, he’s trying to make them good as new or just like new. It’s still fun watching.
Just as we thought the Jimmy Diresta bandsaw was going to get finished! It would be faster to braze it now and get it working to go back to the bandsaw and later get the gear cast and cut the teeth.
Keith, may I suggest hi-temp never-seize on leg sockets and some nice lathe turned plugs at the floor end.
It will need some base material to keep from gouging out that nice, concrete floor. Lots of ways to do that.
I love how Keith makes the things to make the things.
My first thought @15:50 was to clamp that bender to the table! 😁
Morning Keith, if you have a metal angle gauge, the type that pivots and locks with a thumb nut, just stick it to the pipe with thin neo magnets. The first pipe bend sets the needed angle (resultant from your inch drop), such that when the vertical compass leg disappears plumb with the bender frame, you're good to go for the other legs.
Whats your problem welding in a new gear tooth . Drill& tap 3 little studs and Braze it or tig weld it with EUTECTIC CAST IRON TIG RD . RIGHT .
Your craftsmanship makes me think of my brother. He would rather have the fun of restoring something old and make it like new instead of buying a brand new item. Most often resulting in having something better than you can buy off the shelf.
thank you for spreading your vast knowledge to the world .
Would like to see how your bench top grinders and wire wheels are set up, I have several and want to set them up in a good way.
The easiest option is to fill up the broken tooth with weld and recut that
He has done that many times. I feel he wants to create content for himself and Clark.
It would have been easy enough to adjust the original leg braces...all you need is a forge.
Definitely make a new gear with that superb horizontal mill!!!!!
11:24, This drawing is a Flashback to the 1950s and early 60s our family had one of these in our Workshop to repair our farm equipment
'This is a good excuse to get it going.' My mantra.
I like how the "wood side" of your shop has become a secondary wing of your metal shop. Not too many wood projects unfortunately, I sure would like to see some! Love your channel, Keith!
Check out the history of Black Bear Forge. He was a woodworker that wanted some woodworking tools he couldn't find, now he's a blacksmith and still hasn't made the tools he started blacksmithing to make.
Yeah, my metal shop kind of took over my wood shop….
What ever happened to the stoker engine project I would like to see it back in the line up
They're likely looking for another one to scavenge for parts.
Can you buy a cast iron handwheel of approximately the right size and turn it into a replacement gear?
Maybe. Probably not easily though.
Should repair that gear...
I won’t say it would be wrong to repair it, but making a new one is a better solution that I won’t have to worry about failing.
Keith, just curious, why wouldnt you just soak it all in Evaporust?
I've had to deal with loose ball bearings like that and learned to put grease on the race and embed the balls in the grease. It helps reduce the aggravation by about 40%.
Agreed. Vaseline works well in a pinch. Put a big dish towel on your work table to catch balls that will inevitably fall out during the re-assembly process, unless like Keith you are buying packs of 100 balls. Even then, balls on the floor of your workspace can be a nuisance underfoot.
Just wondering Keith on that gear, could you have turned all the teeth off and made a sleeve to shrink fit onto the body then cut your teeth
Thats what i was thinking, would save a lot of work.
A lot of ways to skin a cat! There’s a lot of good solutions in the comments for it.
There are lots of ways to skin a cat. I’ve done exactly that before. But at the end of the day, it’s easy enough to just make a new one like the original and never have to worry about it.
Greetings from the sunny UK! Nice to see this project again. But I'm really surprised that you chose NOT to repair but replace with new! We know you can recut helical gears and for the amount of use you suggest you are going to be getting out of this forge, casting then cutting 87 new teeth (instead of just 1) seems to be an overly expensive option. Was there some other problems with the gear that you didn't explain?
Why do you care? He can do what he wants!
Blower Bearing is on par with what you see in period bicycles. The inner race should be removable by tapping on the backside with a punch. To get the ball bearings to sit in the race you need to first pack the race with thick grease, then the ball bearings will stick in place. Now, picking up the ball bearings and holding them? I've seen speicalty tools that looked like tweezers with spoon bills, and I've seen some use a weak magnet on a wand, but using fingers work too.
They still are very common on bicycles, at least here in the Netherlands on city-bikes. And as said, using some thick grease makes it pretty easy to reassemble them. I've repaired many bikes but never had the need to replace the race, only some new balls and off we go for many more miles ehhh kilometers
Since these bearings will be rotating with relatively high rpm, i would use just enough grease to keep the balls from falling out and after assembly put a lot of oil in them to make the grease as thin as possible.
Filling the bearings with a lot of thick grease would add a significant amount of resistance, so it would be harder to turn the crank..
@Henning S. I doubt if that'll work. There's no seal or whatever on the shaft, so I'm afraid oil just disappears very quickly. A good quality grease (Lithium) may do a better job
@@diederik998 if the oil mixes with the small amount of grease it will turn into low viscosity grease which is still viscous enough to stay in place.
When I occasionally need a little bit of low viscosity grease, I always mix it myself instead of buying some, usually approx. 20% grease mixed with 80% gear oil...
Will you be radiusing the spokes to match the original?
thank you Keith
Nice work Keith those legs turned out great.
Thank you for sharing.👍
I’m a little surprised that Keith doesn’t cut the bottom of the legs so they sit flat on the floor rather than having just small amount of contact with the edge of the pipe like it is now. It would be less likely to slide around that way but it did seem pretty solid when Keith was testing it out. Probably not worried about it but the way it is now it could scratch up his floor just from moving around or when he’s cranking the blower. Going good so far and it looks like we get another gear cutting video which are always good to watch.
I was thinking that same thing the whole time he was marking them out on the table and when he was cutting the legs on the bandsaw.
The catalog pictures show the cut like I did it. Just trying to keep them original.
@@VintageMachinery Look closer Keith, they are cut at an angle to be flush with the floor. you did a great job though.
the end of the legs need to be flat with the floor, not 30 degrees with it. You need to go back to your set up and mark with the table, not 90 to the pipe.
I understand your concept, but that’s not the way they came from the factory. I did them just like the originals.
Seems like in the past if you had something with a lot of rust on it you'd start off by putting it in a tub with rust remover. Lately it seems like you just don't do that anymore. True? If so, why the change?
I still use the Evaporust a hood bit but more on larger parts that are not as easy or fast to clean. Main reason is cost - I save the Evaporust for the more difficult parts as the wire wheel is a lot cheaper.
I was amazed when it sat perfectly stable when you first turned it over and put it on the concrete floor. The odds of that happening are slim to none.
And usually slim is on vacation.
I was honestly amazed as well. Every now and then even a blind squirrel finds an acorn…..
Hi Keith, quick question about babbitt bearing scraping. I work at an old grist mill. The shafts that support the stone (~2000lb) terminate in a babbitt thrust bearing of sorts. Essentially just a square cup filled with babbitt with a divot formed for the base of the shaft. The shaft end itself is domed with an ~1" radius. The former bearing wore out. Pouring the babbitt isn't new, but I'm curious how you would scrape the babbitt. I haven't found a scraper that fits it.
You could use a dull hand file and grind the needed radius to the end, basically like a regular scraper for scraping flat. Then you can scrape the divot by holding that scraper upright and pulling it to your body.
Never tried that, but I think it will work...
You will likely have to make a custom scraper or modify an existing one.
my champion forge has the feet on the pipe legs forged down to a flat pad foot to give it a better foot.
It very well may, but they did not come from the factory that way.
😛😛😛😛😛❤❤❤❤🦾🦾🦴👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
My father used to have a little Buffalo Forge that he conveniently turned into a BBQ Pit and that was our Barbecue Pit for many years Anna's kids playing in the neighborhood if you ran the blower handle backwards it made a post-apocalyptic sound that sounded like a siren and we be in the backyard playing g.i. Joe or some shit and all of the sudden the aliens would attack and you'd hear the post-apocalyptic siren what it was to be a kid LOLOLOL
Someone else has probably made this comment already... I'm a 20+ yr microscope fine mechanic/machinist... typically when dealing with loose ball bearings, completely fill in the races by embedding the balls in grease and then remove 1. Most people wouldn't think it's possible for chrome plated steel ball bearings to "bog down" but just like you have to have clearance and relief on cutting edges, you have to allow bearings a certain amount of "play" in loose (non caged) bearings... don't over-tighten either or you'll spoil the races.
Keith,,,,,for repeatability measure the RAM TRAVEL. - SOP when you are using hydraulic conduit benders. 😄
Hi Keith n Australia we use the pipe benders in the Horizontal plane not vertically as you did I find they work better and I mark the angle I need with wielders chalk on the flat of the bender and it works well hope that helps James.
Remember all them handwheel ?
Hi Keith i was saying get some clamps . If a guy didn't want to cast a blank what alloy steel plate or round stock would you choose .
Thanks for all the cool video . JM
If I were going to machine the gear from soils stock, I would have chosen cast iron. Why, because that’s what the original gear was made from. Also, the smaller gears that mate with these are steel and you get very good wear with cast iron on steel - better than steel on steel.
@@VintageMachinery Keith Thanks
Mhen ever Keith works on the "Wood side" of his shop I smile. I would have done that with my port-o-band and a grinder. It might have been about 50% as effective, but 0% as cool
I'd put some leg brackets on asap, you wouldn't want to break those threaded castings off the "bowl", yikes!
I'll be interested in seeing how you cut an 87 tooth gear, Keith. Being indivisible by any number, may be you have an 87 hole plate for your dividing head.
Wishing these kind of things were comm,on around here. Took 5yrs to find a decent post vise, although once I got it home, found out it was a bit bigger than normal, i.e. 90lb, 5.5" jaws, dated 1896, no other markings, or identifiable features. After 6-87yrs dabbling in blacksmithing, I've still got no more than a brake drum forge with as hair drier blower.
Regarding off the shelf gears, perhaps constraining your search to an exact match to your 14 pitch, 87 tooth gear is asking a bit too much.
Perhaps if you were willing to consider changing the little gear this 87 tooth gear mates to, you might have more success finding a new pair of gears that will serve you well enough. EG if you can only get 16 pitch gears, but can get one in near the same diameter as the 87 tooth original and a little gear that's the correct dimensions to match it, then you'd be off to the races. Exact ratio matching wouldn't be absolutely necessary.
surprised you are not going for a brazed fix on the gear. For you a simple job.. Seems like with the low use that will see compared to it's history it would survive a brazed tooth. You used to do that quite often.
Cup and cone bearings with loose ball bearings. Takes me back to when I worked in a cycle repair shop. 1/4" was the standard size for the bottom bracket.
Would be happy to help out with 3d printing needs... Not too bad with cad either... Been designing and printing for a few years now
I'm hearing Keith say he's lost his bearings.
I think only on one side, probably has him thinking in circles!
Hi Ole Buddy! You seem to have lost some weight. Noticed in the last few videos. Hope you are well, lookin good!
No way those legs would have been even if I was to bend and cut and install them. I would have spent another hour grinding to get it to sit flat. Keith is that good and maybe a little lucky. Thanks for the video.
Not just for forging? Might this become a great place to heat large pieces of cast iron prior to brazing? Even heating, without having to use a lot of gas??
I thoroughly enjoy watching Keith's various projects. It seems like there is nothing he can't make. Thanks for hours and hours of interesting content. In this episode I wonder if a gear like this could be made from a peace of round cast.
Yes, it could. I’m just a stickler for trying to make my parts as close to original as possible. Just the way I am.
The bandsaw is amazing... 🙂
Truly a renaissance man. Your lessons are so worthwhile.
…but you SO lucked out in those leg lengths!!! 😂
I have a blower somewhat yours, and someone took one of the grease cups. So I have to make one. Oh well.
When bending the legs, I would have measured from the table to the end of the pipe.
It looks to me like the leg braces should go on the outside of the legs… Seems that would be a stronger way to keep them from splaying out.
i took a 6" x 1 " strip and bent a 90 in it and tigged it to cylinder and added another tab on frame itself for repeatable bends , also i added the hydrulic 20 ton jack from harbor friegt works great
That tray looks great you do Amazing work Thanks 😊😊😊
Thanks for the video, Keith. See you at the Bar--Z. Jon
I was glad it sat well on the floor with the "eyeball" measurements on the legs.
I love the content you post. You are so down to earth about everything. The suspense of not knowing what you are going to make for Jimmy's band saw is killing me! Can't wait!
Really surprised you don't braze in a new tooth on the gear wheel. Seems a lot of trouble and expense to cast & machine a new gear. I'd understand if it were a machine part but it is a hand operated gear with attendant low forces. It's also a hidden part and anyway I enjoy your brazing!
It's his show! He wants to make a gear. Perfect, we can watch Clark at the foundry and Keith at the mill!
Brazing would have worked fine but I can easily make a new gear and I won’t ever have to worry about it.
Ok Keith, Once again I soooo enjoy your content. Thanks!
Why couldn’t you make a new steel tyre and then cut new teeth?
You could, I’ve done that before, but a totally new gear is easy enough to make and I won’t ever have to worry about it.
Great job Keith. I love watching your channel.
Your weight reduction surgery is working good!!!
12:27 I could tell it was chinese by the sheer thin-ness of the metal used in it!
What great video I have seen a forge like this being used in person !
looking forward to seeing some hot coal and glowing iron
An old fart like me thinks the modern day stuff is out of this world. Push a few buttons and ping it spits it out. But it takes it a journey man to make it happen. 5 years for me 60 years ago and still learning. I thought I was good but not that good. Never to late to learn. NZ.
Mr Rucker, the blower gear doesn’t move very fast or have a lot of forces on it. I would’ve just weld it up and cut it to shape.
It would have been perfectly fine but I decided to just make a new one. I can easy enough and I won’t ever have to worry about it…
The problem now is to find good coal.
Keith, the pipe press is intended to work on the floor and not on a workbench. Gives it a lot more stability.
Why would you want it on the floor? It is way better up where you can get to it and do the measuring. After he clamped it, the "stability" was fine.
It would have been exactly the same from a stability standpoint on the floor as on the bench - just not as far to fall when it falls over. Much more comfortable working at bench height and once clamped, completely stable whereas it would still be moving all over the place on the floor.
I think I would have made locking nuts for the legs. Perhaps because I am paranoid when working with cast.
I’ve never seen nuts that size with tapered pipe threads although they may exist. If the threads start to loosen from heat pinning them might be a better option.
@@ellieprice363, Once Keith puts that bracing on the legs they shouldn’t be able to loosen up, well, like you said he can always pin them or put a set screw on them if there’s a problem. Fun little project!
No need to. They won’t come out with the bracing.
This may have been asked already but….
Why did you cut the feet perpendicular to the pipe and not parallel to the floor?
This, IMHO, would have given a larger downward ‘footprint’?
Because that’s the way Champion did it originally. Trying to keep them as original as possible.
Good morning!
Just thought would have screwed legs in first and tried to see where bend should come.😊
These were my thoughts exactly. How did you determine the direction of the bend when the thread was tightened up? I would have fully tightened each straight leg and marked the direction of the required flair before making the bend. May be this is what you did. Either way you did a great job.
It looks like you are trying to make the braces for the legs fit on the inner diameter, did you try it with the brace flipped over, having the ends wrap around the legs? I feel you probably have but it seemed like a simple thing to miss.
They don’t fit either way
Can also make the blank for the gear using a cast iron blank, an annular cutter and the rotary table on the mill.
I had to do one very fast, less than three days a few years ago, and it went pretty fast that way.
All the holes are programmable with the DRO and the final cuts are just milling ops using the rotary table to rotate and the mill to cut the spokes to relieve the blanks.
I never measured the total time from cast iron blank to gear blank, but i think it took me 7~8 hours with a few breaks.
The idea is not original, i first saw this done by one of the mini steam engine makers ages ago at the dawn of UA-cam, all i did was scale the gear they cut to 30 cm OD. One of my first big size projects on the mill actually, i was pretty chuffed with how it came out in the end.
I’ve done it before. I’m not in that big of a rush and the casting will be more like the original.
A possibly stupid question: I noticed your design for the gear had no dimensions. Does the number of teeth together with the tooth pitch tell you how big the gear will be?
The design did have dimensions, they were just not shown on the printout I made. OD was calculated from the pitch and number of teeth and the rest of the dimensions came from the old original gear.
@@VintageMachinery Thank you!
*- Are the 4 iron straps supposed to bolt together Outside of the legs, wedging tight on the feet?*
Yes
nice..............thank you
Joe Pie has a video on cutting those spokes in a gear with a rotary table. He makes it look easy enough. McMaster sells those cast disc for making lapping plates, and I bet they have one close enough in size to make your gear. It will probably be much simpler for you to have one cast since you've "got a guy," though.
It’s easy and cheap enough to just cast it properly to begin with. The cast iron blank will probably cost more than what the casting costs to have poured and it’s much easier to print a pattern on a 3D printer than machining out those spokes. Either way works, but I think the way I’m doing it is easier, as cost effective and you end up with a part more like the original.
@VintageMachinery I'm curious what it would cost to have one cast. I guess I'm the sort that just figures that it would cost a fortune, so I never call to get an estimate in situations where I can go online, source the materials, and know what it's going to cost. I believe McMaster has an oversized 10" x 3/4" cast disc for about $56. I don't usually figure in the cost of my labor because 9 times out of 10, I'm working on my own things. In your follow-up video, it might be interesting to the viewers to know what Windy Hill Foundry would charge a person off the street to cast that part.
Nice to have the right tools for the job. Even better is to rescue old equipment, restore them and put them to use to fill that need for the project. Thanks for sharing.
When you go to put the bearings back into the blower you can use a bit of grease to stick them into place. I used to do that with bicycle rims but the principal is the same. The reason we used to do that with bikes is that the cage would degrade to the point where it would mess up the races.
If you bend pipe again count the full pump strokes and give each pipe the same number of pumps and you will get the same angle of bend. I agree with some of the other comments, the legs need some sort of feet on them. Maybe a nice brass ball with a protrusion to drive into the pipe. I love you videos and if I were nearby I would volunteer to assist when you need another set of hands.
I think he missed his mark when cutting the pipes, the way he marked them on the table was correct (making sure the cut was parallel to the floor and the vertical pipe perpendicular) but when he put the pipe on the band saw he cut them perpendicular to the bent part of the pipe ending up with just a point of contact to the floor
Good morning Keith. It is coming along nicely. What will you be able to get for fuel?
Whole new gear😊
Another great episode! Thank you Keith!
Thanks for sharing
keith you are so humble about your drawing but to us layman the drawing is fantastic!
Good job.
What happened to the Stoker Engine?
The Alien from Las Vegas, came down to Georgia and took it!
Nice
👍