Hey there George! We're trying to get more of the pruning videos up this year to help folks prune with some confidence. As you know, it takes a lot of practice to make confident cuts!
I watch all your videos as all pruning you tubes get my attention and budding,grafting. THANK YOU FOR your BRILLIANT orchard. I have a backyard garden though I flooded it with dwarf fruit trees as 2-3 meters is the highest branches in pruning.
Hey Duane, Cookie here! I started pruning 2 of my fruit trees last week without reviewing your video, then stopped. Turns out I was taking off too much new wood onthose, so my fault if no fruit this year! After review and seeing your apple one last week I went on to do a much better job! Thank you, and will review next time as well!!
Hey Cookie! If you didn't remove all of the new wood you should still see a harvest, albeit a little smaller. Peaches start breaking dormancy over the next few weeks, so keep an eye out for new flowering to know if you'll see a few fruit this season.
Great video! Have you looked into a battery operated pruner? I have the Dewalt cordless pruner and I find it very useful. I use it in place of loppers because it’s easier to get into tighter spots. Also less tiring cutting up branches for chop and drop than hand pruners. Given how many trees you have to prune, could be a real timesaver for you.
Why it's funny you should mention that. We have those exact same pruners and have been using them extensively this season. Love those things. In fact, we filmed a short video today pruning a 1 year old fig tree in less than 20 seconds with just those pruners.
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm that’s crazy! Your tree is so big I wonder why it’s not producing? Pollination? Wonder if it needs a specific pollinator? Mine is near other plums and pluots and a Tomcot apricot but not sure which are the main pollinator .I hope this year it gives you some because they’re awesome.
@@jaredmccutcheon5496 much like yours it's surrounded by plums, apricots, pluouts, apriums, peaches and nectarines, so I don't think it's pollination. We did get a few pieces of fruit that set last year, but the late frost did them in, so we're hopeful for this season.
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Yeah, hard to believe it was a pollination issue, who knows. Mine typically requires thinning and it’s ripe in summer just before my red haven peaches are ready. Maybe yours just is slow to mature? I really hope this year you get to try it.
I'm trying a strategy where I cut off anything that rubs. My peach & plum trees were completely covered in cranker from the last two years of leaf-hoppers. Hopefully this 3rd year will bring me some fruit. I think I need Imidacloprid on my non-edible oak-trees to reduce the nuisance bug-habitat.
Thank you for another helpful pruning video. If you have any trees that have reached the desired height, and you don't want taller growth, how do you prune for that? I understand that where you make a cut the tree will send out new branches. Since you don't want taller branches, would you prune them off in the next winter pruning?
Great question and we should have clarified that in this one. If you're controlling the height you want to prune the top branching off at an outward facing bud just below your desired height. This will encourage horizontal growth at that cut.
For us here in the desert that can actually kill our trees. They go semi-dormant in the Summer time and do not put on any growth. For everyone else, that is great advice!
I use the Swiss FELCO 2 pruning shears ; its a real WORLD CLASS type as I tried the Japanese sharp ones before discovering that FELCO 2 . Both are SHARP but I got my Japan shears into trouble while pruning some hard type of apricot branch.The SAMURAI is excellent .I live in Lebanese mountains,Beit Chabab. Peach trees are in ALL GARDENS.
They are around 50 $ in Lebanese gardening suppliers, companies and all. I collected them over a few weeks and asked a special 1 $ shop to get me the FELCO 2 . Its a SHARP CLEAN cut on all trees, roses and what else of ornamentals.@@EdgeofNowhereFarm
Add I am as you are a horticulturist,organic gardener in my backyard garden. I grew some peach trees from winter cuttings as some late summer varieties and others in late July. I got the cuttings from a special fruit tree nursery, the Beqaa valley,Chtoura as my professor in agriculture told me about that nursery. I got them in January.
I can send you a photograph if I can get you your own email, not You Tube. I have a few only in my Documents.I ONLY use this desktop computer, no cell phones,no laptops and other mini computer issues. @@EdgeofNowhereFarm
I can send you a photograph if I can get you your own email, not You Tube. I have a few only in my Documents.I ONLY use this desktop computer, no cell phones,no laptops and other mini computer issues. @@EdgeofNowhereFarm
Solid guidance on pruning when, where, and how. What are you doing with the branches you have pruned? Into the grinder or chopped and dropped somewhere?
Yes, we chip the majority of what is pruned away. We donate cuttings of mulberry and figs to a local grower who we're partnering with to eventually sell trees, but that's a season or two away right now.
Some chipped and then some made into cuttings for future trees on their way to future orchards (with companion plantings*). Good plans and nourishing soils. @@EdgeofNowhereFarm
Love the videos! Quick Questions. When do you cut back the main trunk for 4 Scaffolds? Do you do that early in the trees life or do you let it grow 3m or so and then cut it back once you got some potential scaffolds to build off? I have a peach, apricot, and nectarine. All around 3m, but been seeing a lot of your videos you have the scaffolds starting around 1m off the ground which makes me think I need to cut back my tree.
We generally establish the trunk height very early on. For bare root plantings we do so at planting. For potted trees we typically do that at their first Winter pruning after their first growing season.
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Thanks for getting back so quickly! Mine are probably around 2-3 years old grafted onto I think plum rootstock. I measured the trunks at knee high and average from just 1 inch to 1.5 inch diameter. They range 6-8ft tall, after I did a heading cut on the central leader yesterday. They are potted currently but hopefully put in the ground in a month. Is there an age, truck diameter, or height, which indicate it’s too late to create open center? If so, what would you suggest for shaping the tree moving forward to produce fruit.
@@jarredsmith6652 it sounds like you would be fine to head those back still without any issues. I wouldn't be able to say when it would be too late to head them back as we have always done so on young trees. Once it's in the ground you can prune back each season to shape the tree how you'd like. If you check out our pruning playlist, you can check a few of our older videos that we've done showing how we have been pruning these trees when they were younger. I'll link to that playlist for you here; ua-cam.com/play/PLnT_wyDSIC9h4XElyKjSrjo6Y78Nv-9ap.html
Glad you guys are enjoying the content and yes, we do plan on selling some sugar cane starts this Spring. Not sure if you guys have done so, but you can join our customer email list through our website. That's how we let folks know when we have items for sale.
It continues to baffle me that pruning techniques and strategies are so different, in this case timing. Here in Italy they have told me not to prune stone fruit in winter but to do it after harvest, in late summer. With everything there is more than 1 way to skin a cat and your glass shape is also what I'll be emulating with our fruit and olive trees.
For us here in the desert we're stuck pruning these in the Winter due to our extremely hot, dry summers (too much stress for summer pruning that can kill the tree). Ideally you would do the primary pruning in the Summer for peach trees, because your fruiting is all on last year's wood.
We haven't done one on pomegranates yet, but we do plan on getting one up this season. They're VERY easy to prune though and don't require any unless you're trying to prune for specific size/shape.
I would leave those alone if it's a first year pruning, just to make sure you have some growth and potential for fruiting. You can always prune them back during the growing season if they're getting in the way.
Didn't you have a Peacotum tree? Did that ever start producing? It looked like an interesting cultivar to me, but I've heard people say it's a very shy bearer (which is pretty weird for a peach/plum plant).
We do have a peacotum and actually had our first harvest last year...a whopping single fruit! I'll link to a video we did on it here for you; ua-cam.com/video/t8SM4t-0y0U/v-deo.html
As long as the tree has not starting budding out, you should be ok. As for fertilizing, you would follow a schedule similar to ours in Riverside. We fertilize in February, May and September, so right now!!
Yes, you can prune them anytime during the dormant season. The only thing we try to avoid is pruning immediately before or during a storm, but otherwise you're good to go.
I DON'T GET THE PART WHERE YOU LEAVE THE BRANCHES ON FOR NEXT YEAR... WHICH ONES ARE THOSE? DO THEY LOOK DIFFERENT COLOR OR ANYTHING ? MY TREE IS CROWDED WITH BRANCHES AND TONS OF SMALL ONES, ITS ABOUT TEN YEARS OLD .
The growth from last year is usually a lot smaller than prior years growth and it will also have a green tinge to it that older branching will not have. If you're not sure, thin the branching as you're pruning as opposed to lopping off large sections. This way you're bound to keep some of last year's fruiting wood as you reduce the total branching on the tree. Hopefully this makes sense.
Does pruning the tree, which stimulates growth, have any affect on when it blooms, which is supposed to be based on temperature--does it bloom earlier?
We haven't seen any effect on bloom time. A few years back we decided to skip pruning a Katy Apricot right next to a fully pruned Aprium and they both bloomed at the same time. The Katy is the pollinator for that Aprium, so no effect in our experience.
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Buds on my Apricot wanting to break, in the middle of late frosts. Common for late frosts to destroy not necessarily flowers but the young apricots here in Northern AZ (Flag), but wasn't sure if it was due to some hard pruning (had to bring them down from 17'--have to be able to put frost cloth over them).
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Apparently, it's in the first week of April, but, when I moved here in 2012, it was snowing hard in June! That said, I didn't pick the trees, they were here when I got here. Also, we live near a Mountain, where it stays 10 degrees F warmer, because of that, so we actually harvested Apricots last year, for instance. I have, as an experiment, a section of the branches covered with frost cloth (ground warmth has to be captured, so I have taken that into account and taken the some measures with that in mind), because it is going to take a few years for the trees to be pruned to a more ideal size. As an aside, please look in to Johnson-Su BioReactor Compost. It's DIY. You just use leaves. "Static Pile Fungal Compost", Dr. Johnson's presentation, is a good place to start. I mentioned this in another comment. It makes the New Mexican desert soils more productive than old growth forest soils. A farmer accidentally sprayed one side of his Chestnut tree and got Chestnuts 2-3 times the size on that side of the tree compared to the Chestnuts on the unsprayed side of the three that very same year.
Yeah, we've abandoned our summer pruning at this point after almost losing trees to heat stress. Our extremely dry, hot weather puts most of our trees in semi-dormancy in June/July and even into August, so pruning green shoots is a challenge for us. I would much prefer summer pruning, especially with Peach/Nectarine trees that produce on last year's growth!
Pruning happens everywhere. 😉 Seriously though, we have challenges, but they're just different from what most gardeners face. We have very little bug and disease pressure compared to most places for example. Also a VERY long growing season that can also be split into 2 for winter/summer crops.
No, this will fill in just fine in early Spring as they grow EXTREMELY fast in our area. That may not be true elsewhere, but it is here in our climate.
Also open center is the old style of pruning fruit trees. You want a spindle shape for best production per square foot. Also heavy pruning peach and nectarine trees significantly shortens the life on an already short lived tree, this is due to the inability to heal wounds. Good luck
Glad to see you guys back! Love your videos!
It's definitely good to be back with everyone!
George L here, Duane. Excellent video! You are a gifted teacher!
Hey there George! We're trying to get more of the pruning videos up this year to help folks prune with some confidence. As you know, it takes a lot of practice to make confident cuts!
I agree! The Bible says prune to get good fruit. If you have good fruit, prune more! But I am still a hesitant pruner 🙄
I watch all your videos as all pruning you tubes get my attention and budding,grafting. THANK YOU FOR your BRILLIANT orchard. I have a backyard garden though I flooded it with dwarf fruit trees as 2-3 meters is the highest branches in pruning.
I'm glad you're enjoying these. You must be doing something right as dwarf trees with branches that long are VERY happy!
I think the farm cats like to following you around.
They are definitely acting more like dogs right now following us everywhere!
Hey Duane, Cookie here! I started pruning 2 of my fruit trees last week without reviewing your video, then stopped. Turns out I was taking off too much new wood onthose, so my fault if no fruit this year! After review and seeing your apple one last week I went on to do a much better job! Thank you, and will review next time as well!!
Hey Cookie! If you didn't remove all of the new wood you should still see a harvest, albeit a little smaller. Peaches start breaking dormancy over the next few weeks, so keep an eye out for new flowering to know if you'll see a few fruit this season.
Great video! Have you looked into a battery operated pruner? I have the Dewalt cordless pruner and I find it very useful. I use it in place of loppers because it’s easier to get into tighter spots. Also less tiring cutting up branches for chop and drop than hand pruners. Given how many trees you have to prune, could be a real timesaver for you.
Why it's funny you should mention that. We have those exact same pruners and have been using them extensively this season. Love those things. In fact, we filmed a short video today pruning a 1 year old fig tree in less than 20 seconds with just those pruners.
Thanks for the help. Trimming fruit trees can be a train wreck without some guidance. Spring is coming soon.
Spring really is just around the corner. This morning we saw bud swelling on the peach trees!!
Nice Job. Neat and clean.
Glad you found this one useful.
Eline emeğine sağlık bu güzel vlog ve video için kolay gelsin hayirli işler bol bereketli kazançların olsun 👍👍👍👍
Teşekkürler Mesut. Sizi her hafta burada yorumlarda görmekten gerçekten keyif alıyorum. Devam etmemiz için bize ilham veriyor!
thats a beautiful job.
Peach trees are one of our favorite trees to prune, because they're so forgiving!
I have a Spice Z Nectaplum and it’s probably my favorite fruit on my property. I grafted 2 more this winter, lol.
This is the same, but we haven't had any ripe fruit from it yet. Glad to hear it's a winner though!
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm that’s crazy! Your tree is so big I wonder why it’s not producing? Pollination? Wonder if it needs a specific pollinator? Mine is near other plums and pluots and a Tomcot apricot but not sure which are the main pollinator .I hope this year it gives you some because they’re awesome.
@@jaredmccutcheon5496 much like yours it's surrounded by plums, apricots, pluouts, apriums, peaches and nectarines, so I don't think it's pollination. We did get a few pieces of fruit that set last year, but the late frost did them in, so we're hopeful for this season.
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Yeah, hard to believe it was a pollination issue, who knows. Mine typically requires thinning and it’s ripe in summer just before my red haven peaches are ready. Maybe yours just is slow to mature? I really hope this year you get to try it.
I'm trying a strategy where I cut off anything that rubs. My peach & plum trees were completely covered in cranker from the last two years of leaf-hoppers. Hopefully this 3rd year will bring me some fruit. I think I need Imidacloprid on my non-edible oak-trees to reduce the nuisance bug-habitat.
Now that is just frustrating. Hopefully you can stem the tide and get some fruit here soon!
My orchard trees are going on year 4 as well so this is very timely!
Perfect timing, woohoo!!
Excellent video, Peach & Nectarine Tree Pruning , we learnt lots. When jujube will Prune
Hey there Abid. Don't tell anyone, but today we filmed our Jujube tree pruning video...🤫
Thank you for another helpful pruning video.
If you have any trees that have reached the desired height, and you don't want taller growth, how do you prune for that? I understand that where you make a cut the tree will send out new branches. Since you don't want taller branches, would you prune them off in the next winter pruning?
Great question and we should have clarified that in this one. If you're controlling the height you want to prune the top branching off at an outward facing bud just below your desired height. This will encourage horizontal growth at that cut.
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm
Thank you, will give it a go!
I'd recommend to cut vertical branches during summer time, so the tree doesn't waste energy.
For us here in the desert that can actually kill our trees. They go semi-dormant in the Summer time and do not put on any growth. For everyone else, that is great advice!
I use the Swiss FELCO 2 pruning shears ; its a real WORLD CLASS type as I tried the Japanese sharp ones before discovering that FELCO 2 . Both are SHARP but I got my Japan shears into trouble while pruning some hard type of apricot branch.The SAMURAI is excellent .I live in Lebanese mountains,Beit Chabab. Peach trees are in ALL GARDENS.
I've seen those pruners before, but haven't bitten the bullet on the price tag. I would love to see a pic of your trees, especially those peach trees!
They are around 50 $ in Lebanese gardening suppliers, companies and all. I collected them over a few weeks and asked a special 1 $ shop to get me the FELCO 2 . Its a SHARP CLEAN cut on all trees, roses and what else of ornamentals.@@EdgeofNowhereFarm
Add I am as you are a horticulturist,organic gardener in my backyard garden. I grew some peach trees from winter cuttings as some late summer varieties and others in late July. I got the cuttings from a special fruit tree nursery, the Beqaa valley,Chtoura as my professor in agriculture told me about that nursery. I got them in January.
I can send you a photograph if I can get you your own email, not You Tube. I have a few only in my Documents.I ONLY use this desktop computer, no cell phones,no laptops and other mini computer issues. @@EdgeofNowhereFarm
I can send you a photograph if I can get you your own email, not You Tube. I have a few only in my Documents.I ONLY use this desktop computer, no cell phones,no laptops and other mini computer issues. @@EdgeofNowhereFarm
This is so great, thank you
Glad you found this one useful!
Thanks, I needed the info.
Glad you found this one useful!
Solid guidance on pruning when, where, and how. What are you doing with the branches you have pruned? Into the grinder or chopped and dropped somewhere?
Yes, we chip the majority of what is pruned away. We donate cuttings of mulberry and figs to a local grower who we're partnering with to eventually sell trees, but that's a season or two away right now.
Some chipped and then some made into cuttings for future trees on their way to future orchards (with companion plantings*). Good plans and nourishing soils. @@EdgeofNowhereFarm
Love the videos! Quick Questions. When do you cut back the main trunk for 4 Scaffolds? Do you do that early in the trees life or do you let it grow 3m or so and then cut it back once you got some potential scaffolds to build off? I have a peach, apricot, and nectarine. All around 3m, but been seeing a lot of your videos you have the scaffolds starting around 1m off the ground which makes me think I need to cut back my tree.
We generally establish the trunk height very early on. For bare root plantings we do so at planting. For potted trees we typically do that at their first Winter pruning after their first growing season.
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Thanks for getting back so quickly! Mine are probably around 2-3 years old grafted onto I think plum rootstock. I measured the trunks at knee high and average from just 1 inch to 1.5 inch diameter. They range 6-8ft tall, after I did a heading cut on the central leader yesterday. They are potted currently but hopefully put in the ground in a month. Is there an age, truck diameter, or height, which indicate it’s too late to create open center? If so, what would you suggest for shaping the tree moving forward to produce fruit.
@@jarredsmith6652 it sounds like you would be fine to head those back still without any issues. I wouldn't be able to say when it would be too late to head them back as we have always done so on young trees. Once it's in the ground you can prune back each season to shape the tree how you'd like. If you check out our pruning playlist, you can check a few of our older videos that we've done showing how we have been pruning these trees when they were younger. I'll link to that playlist for you here;
ua-cam.com/play/PLnT_wyDSIC9h4XElyKjSrjo6Y78Nv-9ap.html
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Appreciate it! Just watched a few and will seek to learn more from your other videos. Thanks so much
There are new branches, but the little new ones 1 or 2 inches were removed. We will see, still have others with lots of buds!
Keeping our fingers crossed over here for you!!
Hi Duane. My wife and I love the channel. Will yall be selling any sugar cane this year?
Glad you guys are enjoying the content and yes, we do plan on selling some sugar cane starts this Spring. Not sure if you guys have done so, but you can join our customer email list through our website. That's how we let folks know when we have items for sale.
For some reason I removed all the little new sticks, buds...Will it grow out more??
If there is no growth from last year left on the tree you probably won't see any flowering/fruit. At least that's true for peaches and nectarines.
It continues to baffle me that pruning techniques and strategies are so different, in this case timing. Here in Italy they have told me not to prune stone fruit in winter but to do it after harvest, in late summer. With everything there is more than 1 way to skin a cat and your glass shape is also what I'll be emulating with our fruit and olive trees.
For us here in the desert we're stuck pruning these in the Winter due to our extremely hot, dry summers (too much stress for summer pruning that can kill the tree). Ideally you would do the primary pruning in the Summer for peach trees, because your fruiting is all on last year's wood.
You can try to grow cherry in AZ like royal Lee and Minnie royal low chill charry plant
We've tried those without success before, but we may give them a shot again sometime in the future.
Do you have a video on pruning pomegranates?
We haven't done one on pomegranates yet, but we do plan on getting one up this season. They're VERY easy to prune though and don't require any unless you're trying to prune for specific size/shape.
Question basal bud cut off? Remove? My first year 2 bud spurs Thompson Seedless. I just pruned, but what to do with non count basal buds.
I would leave those alone if it's a first year pruning, just to make sure you have some growth and potential for fruiting. You can always prune them back during the growing season if they're getting in the way.
I needed that, I want to eat grapes.
Didn't you have a Peacotum tree? Did that ever start producing? It looked like an interesting cultivar to me, but I've heard people say it's a very shy bearer (which is pretty weird for a peach/plum plant).
We do have a peacotum and actually had our first harvest last year...a whopping single fruit! I'll link to a video we did on it here for you;
ua-cam.com/video/t8SM4t-0y0U/v-deo.html
Hi,
I have a peach tree. I know I am late but can I prune my peach tree now? I am in Riverside county. When do I fertilize it? Thanks a lots.
As long as the tree has not starting budding out, you should be ok. As for fertilizing, you would follow a schedule similar to ours in Riverside. We fertilize in February, May and September, so right now!!
so its save to prune peach tree now? How about freezing temp in march? No problem?
Yes, you can prune them anytime during the dormant season. The only thing we try to avoid is pruning immediately before or during a storm, but otherwise you're good to go.
Can you cut the length of the long branches?
You sure can. We do that as well, especially when trying to encourage outward growth on a branch.
I DON'T GET THE PART WHERE YOU LEAVE THE BRANCHES ON FOR NEXT YEAR... WHICH ONES ARE THOSE? DO THEY LOOK DIFFERENT COLOR OR ANYTHING ? MY TREE IS CROWDED WITH BRANCHES AND TONS OF SMALL ONES, ITS ABOUT TEN YEARS OLD .
The growth from last year is usually a lot smaller than prior years growth and it will also have a green tinge to it that older branching will not have. If you're not sure, thin the branching as you're pruning as opposed to lopping off large sections. This way you're bound to keep some of last year's fruiting wood as you reduce the total branching on the tree. Hopefully this makes sense.
Does pruning the tree, which stimulates growth, have any affect on when it blooms, which is supposed to be based on temperature--does it bloom earlier?
We haven't seen any effect on bloom time. A few years back we decided to skip pruning a Katy Apricot right next to a fully pruned Aprium and they both bloomed at the same time. The Katy is the pollinator for that Aprium, so no effect in our experience.
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Thanks
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Buds on my Apricot wanting to break, in the middle of late frosts. Common for late frosts to destroy not necessarily flowers but the young apricots here in Northern AZ (Flag), but wasn't sure if it was due to some hard pruning (had to bring them down from 17'--have to be able to put frost cloth over them).
@@mariomene2051 what is your typical last frost date up there?
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Apparently, it's in the first week of April, but, when I moved here in 2012, it was snowing hard in June!
That said, I didn't pick the trees, they were here when I got here. Also, we live near a Mountain, where it stays 10 degrees F warmer, because of that, so we actually harvested Apricots last year, for instance.
I have, as an experiment, a section of the branches covered with frost cloth (ground warmth has to be captured, so I have taken that into account and taken the some measures with that in mind), because it is going to take a few years for the trees to be pruned to a more ideal size.
As an aside, please look in to Johnson-Su BioReactor Compost. It's DIY. You just use leaves. "Static Pile Fungal Compost", Dr. Johnson's presentation, is a good place to start.
I mentioned this in another comment.
It makes the New Mexican desert soils more productive than old growth forest soils.
A farmer accidentally sprayed one side of his Chestnut tree and got Chestnuts 2-3 times the size on that side of the tree compared to the Chestnuts on the unsprayed side of the three that very same year.
What’s the white paint on the trunk
I'll link to a video we did on that for you here that explains it in detail;
ua-cam.com/video/WVh_IqHbXs0/v-deo.html
Hi
Hey there!
good afternoon, to cut less for firewood)) you can do "green operations", the trees will spend less energy on fattening shoots
Yeah, we've abandoned our summer pruning at this point after almost losing trees to heat stress. Our extremely dry, hot weather puts most of our trees in semi-dormancy in June/July and even into August, so pruning green shoots is a challenge for us. I would much prefer summer pruning, especially with Peach/Nectarine trees that produce on last year's growth!
How the hell are you doing this in a desert?
Pruning happens everywhere. 😉 Seriously though, we have challenges, but they're just different from what most gardeners face. We have very little bug and disease pressure compared to most places for example. Also a VERY long growing season that can also be split into 2 for winter/summer crops.
Wrong pruning ... Danger of sun burning rays in centre because of much space
No, this will fill in just fine in early Spring as they grow EXTREMELY fast in our area. That may not be true elsewhere, but it is here in our climate.
Also open center is the old style of pruning fruit trees. You want a spindle shape for best production per square foot. Also heavy pruning peach and nectarine trees significantly shortens the life on an already short lived tree, this is due to the inability to heal wounds. Good luck
@@mjt2582 Dear, In here their is spindle shaped peach trees which has fast grow as well as fast productive And also Safe for skin burning sun rays ...