Installed the kit with Curtis cab on it. Thanks for the video it made the installation sweet. As you noted tapping the frame is a pain but doable. Was able to modify old valve in place with a short 1 inch 3/8 drive six point thin socket. Seeing I’m old I pulled the front hinge pin on the seat and removed the seat in two pieces. Loader Bucket is definitely faster won’t be able to get the back hoe on for another couple months, -24F tomorrow night.
Thanks K👍 I was waiting to see if you would put a stuffed cat somewhere....Have a ton of BH work this summer, looking forward to the 1026R solution. This was fun to watch . Those of us doing this...Get a jack stand under there.
Thanks Kevin, nothing but good things to say about you and the kit. Well almost - you included the Allen head bolts for the proportioning valve that must go on the tractors with backhoes (too short). Started to check for leaks and all was good. Pulled back on joystick to lift the loader and... nothing. Loader wouldn't budge, bucket wouldn't move and the 3pt hitch wouldn't move a inch... but power steering was fine. After the panic, and confusion, subsided I adjusted the proportioning valve and got the loader, 3pt hitch and power steering all working as intended. Love to way the loader works now and look forward to receiving the Extreme Pump and being able to run a LimbSaw and other attachments.
I wish JD would do install videos like this! I’m installing 3rd function along with your kit, that’s arriving Monday, and their instructions are vague. I spoke with a JD tech and he said the same thing. I’m glad I have a tech manual too! Thanks again for the great video!
After tapping many 1000's of threads and experimenting with different techniques, I find the best and most practical option is to use the same drill I drilled the hole with to then drive the tap in and out. The most critical parameter for successful thread creation (assuming the tap is in good condition and the hole is the correct size) is that the tap is parallel to the hole and that it remains parallel during the tapping operation. If you use a ratchet or T-handle you'll inevitably wobble around, changing the angle, while tapping the hole. If the angle is off too much, the tap will jam and could even snap off in the hole. If the angle wobbles around while tapping, the quality of the thread is compromised and typically you end up with a loose thread. If you hold the drill carefully, use the low speed on the drill (speed selector in position #1 with most drills), take your time, and run the tap out and back in every time it starts to get tight, you will end up with a strong, high quality thread, that is superior to anything you could make using a T-handle or ratchet. If you really want to be safe you can set your drill's torque limiter to a low setting to guarantee you won't snap off the tap in the hole. When creating difficult threads (such as very small diameter ones and/or threads in a very thin piece of sheet metal) the absolute best option is to both drill the hole and tap the hole using a drill press (or milling machine). A drill press will guarantee that the hole and tap are perfectly parallel. The one downside to a drill press is most do not have reverse so you'll have to manually turn the drill's chuck backwards by hand. Often with a drill press, it is so perfectly parallel that you can run the tap all the way in with a single operation and then switch to a hand drill to remove the tap. Try using your hand drill to drive the tap. Once you've mastered keeping the tap parallel to the hole, you will never go back to the hand tool option.
Thanks for the feedback. One change I've made regarding the hole drilling and tapping is I've changed to a 2 flute gun tap and increased the bit size a small amount after talking with a few machinists.. These holes are just for keeping things in place and only need a few foot lbs of torque, so even if the hole ends up less than perfect, it'll do the job.
This how-to is so unrealistic! You forgot to add in snack breaks, fill up the kid's bike tires breaks, open a jar for the wife break, run kid to practice break, coach practice, return and try to remember where you left off. Kidding - thank you so much for putting this together!
@@HydrosPlus I got my kit today. Took the right side tire off to tweak the pressure up a bit. The tire is fluid-filled, so it was a little bit of a beast to get back on, but nothing unmanageable. I'll pick up where I left off tomorrow.
What is the GPM supposed to be set on the flow divider if i purchased the stage 3 kit with the performance kit? Sorry just a little confused when you said the dividers come set at 5 GPM and you adjusted to 2 GPM. So with the stage three kit what is it adjusted to? Will the stage 3 pump produce the higher flow rate? Thanks
It can be adjusted to your liking, but they flow dividers are set to ~2 GPMs from the factory, regardless of the stage. The balance of the flow goes to the implements, which is more based on the stage you go with.
I think Tractor Time with Tim is working on a video very soon on the install of a PB, but I might do a quick overview of the parts since I do get the question about whether there is interference between the hydrosplus system and PB or other new functions.
I love the concept and all but it looks like a broken tire chain or a limb jammed in-between the tire and frame could destroy the hard lines. I guess that would be something to plan for, maybe buy a couple spare lines...in 5 years who knows where you could get replacements.
The latest version is tucked in pretty tight and the hard lines are going to be tougher than most things they encounter, but if something does happen, you have a lifetime warranty.
Hi Don! I actually bought the tractor used and it came with the tractor, so I don't know where it came from. I'll see if I can find a marking on it next time I'm around it and let you know if I find anything.
We all do it....😇 Try this when removing all that back linkage. Undo the top center rod, rotate parts down to the ground. Remove the lower pins and tractor mounted links on bottom by the axles. Then remove the two reaming links and slide it all away together.
I can't explain why it's there, but if you're asking why it's in a hydraulic component, I can help. The PTO clutch in the transaxle is actuated by hydraulic pressure. The PTO switch is an electrical solenoid that when energized, allows fluid to direct through a port that engages the PTO clutch. It's a small amount of fluid that is redirected at a relatively low pressure.
Agree that ORB is ideal and I'm working on that. At the time I started development, an ORB version that met my specs was 12-18 weeks out, so I opted to develop with the NPT version which was plentiful. I just received an ORB version and will start testing soon, but I expect that all of the dimensions will change due to the compactness of the ORB fittings...which is a good thing, but will likely require rework of all the tubing components.
To bad they don’t make or modify the valve already in the stock flow divider. Instead of 50/50 ratio make it have 66.6/33.3 ratio. Do they make such a valve?
It's possible that one exists, but the manufacturer of the flow divider is not clear - no markings on the device. It's also possible that the valve is unique since the PTO switch is integrated, but I would be surprised. You still have a challenge of more than needed flow going to the steering circuit if you want to achieve an implement flow of >7 GPMs. You would need a pump that is north of 11 GPMs to get there if you change the ratio to a 33/66, which in my testing, has been a challenge due to the relatively high rpms of this engine. The bigger the gear pump gets, the slower it wants to go so it doesn't cavitate. Everything I've tested that's much about 10 GPMs has had issues at WOT. With the HydrosPlus system, you can get 7.5 - 8 GPMs to the implements with the 9.5 GPM pump.
Installed this kit on my 1023e which went very smoothly. This is a great performance upgrade for these machines.
Just finished my install. Tapping the middle bolt kicked my but. Lol. No leaks but time for sleep. The shortcut was a blessing!
Installed the kit with Curtis cab on it. Thanks for the video it made the installation sweet. As you noted tapping the frame is a pain but doable. Was able to modify old valve in place with a short 1 inch 3/8 drive six point thin socket. Seeing I’m old I pulled the front hinge pin on the seat and removed the seat in two pieces. Loader Bucket is definitely faster won’t be able to get the back hoe on for another couple months, -24F tomorrow night.
Thanks K👍 I was waiting to see if you would put a stuffed cat somewhere....Have a ton of BH work this summer, looking forward to the 1026R solution. This was fun to watch .
Those of us doing this...Get a jack stand under there.
Thanks Kevin, nothing but good things to say about you and the kit. Well almost - you included the Allen head bolts for the proportioning valve that must go on the tractors with backhoes (too short). Started to check for leaks and all was good. Pulled back on joystick to lift the loader and... nothing. Loader wouldn't budge, bucket wouldn't move and the 3pt hitch wouldn't move a inch... but power steering was fine. After the panic, and confusion, subsided I adjusted the proportioning valve and got the loader, 3pt hitch and power steering all working as intended. Love to way the loader works now and look forward to receiving the Extreme Pump and being able to run a LimbSaw and other attachments.
I've installed my kit no problems. Sadly I've not used my tractor yet. All I can say is the install was easy. Kevin keep up the good work.
I wish JD would do install videos like this! I’m installing 3rd function along with your kit, that’s arriving Monday, and their instructions are vague. I spoke with a JD tech and he said the same thing. I’m glad I have a tech manual too! Thanks again for the great video!
After tapping many 1000's of threads and experimenting with different techniques, I find the best and most practical option is to use the same drill I drilled the hole with to then drive the tap in and out.
The most critical parameter for successful thread creation (assuming the tap is in good condition and the hole is the correct size) is that the tap is parallel to the hole and that it remains parallel during the tapping operation.
If you use a ratchet or T-handle you'll inevitably wobble around, changing the angle, while tapping the hole. If the angle is off too much, the tap will jam and could even snap off in the hole. If the angle wobbles around while tapping, the quality of the thread is compromised and typically you end up with a loose thread.
If you hold the drill carefully, use the low speed on the drill (speed selector in position #1 with most drills), take your time, and run the tap out and back in every time it starts to get tight, you will end up with a strong, high quality thread, that is superior to anything you could make using a T-handle or ratchet. If you really want to be safe you can set your drill's torque limiter to a low setting to guarantee you won't snap off the tap in the hole.
When creating difficult threads (such as very small diameter ones and/or threads in a very thin piece of sheet metal) the absolute best option is to both drill the hole and tap the hole using a drill press (or milling machine). A drill press will guarantee that the hole and tap are perfectly parallel. The one downside to a drill press is most do not have reverse so you'll have to manually turn the drill's chuck backwards by hand. Often with a drill press, it is so perfectly parallel that you can run the tap all the way in with a single operation and then switch to a hand drill to remove the tap.
Try using your hand drill to drive the tap. Once you've mastered keeping the tap parallel to the hole, you will never go back to the hand tool option.
Thanks for the feedback. One change I've made regarding the hole drilling and tapping is I've changed to a 2 flute gun tap and increased the bit size a small amount after talking with a few machinists.. These holes are just for keeping things in place and only need a few foot lbs of torque, so even if the hole ends up less than perfect, it'll do the job.
Great video 👍
This how-to is so unrealistic! You forgot to add in snack breaks, fill up the kid's bike tires breaks, open a jar for the wife break, run kid to practice break, coach practice, return and try to remember where you left off.
Kidding - thank you so much for putting this together!
haha! I did have to stop and pick it up the next day. I can't remember what I had to do, but it was a family thing :)
@@HydrosPlus I got my kit today. Took the right side tire off to tweak the pressure up a bit. The tire is fluid-filled, so it was a little bit of a beast to get back on, but nothing unmanageable.
I'll pick up where I left off tomorrow.
Very good vidéo !!! 😊
👍👍👍 good video ‼️
What is the GPM supposed to be set on the flow divider if i purchased the stage 3 kit with the performance kit? Sorry just a little confused when you said the dividers come set at 5 GPM and you adjusted to 2 GPM. So with the stage three kit what is it adjusted to? Will the stage 3 pump produce the higher flow rate? Thanks
It can be adjusted to your liking, but they flow dividers are set to ~2 GPMs from the factory, regardless of the stage. The balance of the flow goes to the implements, which is more based on the stage you go with.
Very nice.
Any chance you can video the installation of a power beyond kit for the 1025r?
I think Tractor Time with Tim is working on a video very soon on the install of a PB, but I might do a quick overview of the parts since I do get the question about whether there is interference between the hydrosplus system and PB or other new functions.
This guy is ausome
I love the concept and all but it looks like a broken tire chain or a limb jammed in-between the tire and frame could destroy the hard lines. I guess that would be something to plan for, maybe buy a couple spare lines...in 5 years who knows where you could get replacements.
The latest version is tucked in pretty tight and the hard lines are going to be tougher than most things they encounter, but if something does happen, you have a lifetime warranty.
Kevin will this increase the HP at the PTO???
Yes - the power increases we're measuring are at the PTO, so the flywheel HP increase should be even more.
Is this available for the Kubota BX series? I have a Kubota BX23S and would love upgrade my tractor’s hydraulic pump.
Sorry. We don't offer anything for the Kubota BX at this time.
Very helpful, thank you for sharing
Where did u get the rear 2” receiver that is mounted on the back frame?
Thanks for sharing?
Hi Don! I actually bought the tractor used and it came with the tractor, so I don't know where it came from. I'll see if I can find a marking on it next time I'm around it and let you know if I find anything.
I kept waiting for you to loose a toe nail with those shoo's on.😱😱
My steel toes didn't match my t-shirt that day, so I had to take the risk ;)
We all do it....😇 Try this when removing all that back linkage. Undo the top center rod, rotate parts down to the ground. Remove the lower pins and tractor mounted links on bottom by the axles. Then remove the two reaming links and slide it all away together.
Can someone explain why the proportional flow valve has a switch for the PTO?
I can't explain why it's there, but if you're asking why it's in a hydraulic component, I can help. The PTO clutch in the transaxle is actuated by hydraulic pressure. The PTO switch is an electrical solenoid that when energized, allows fluid to direct through a port that engages the PTO clutch. It's a small amount of fluid that is redirected at a relatively low pressure.
I guess you could not source the valve with ORB. An ORB by ORFS would be much less PITA to adjust. And less leak prone than NPT.
Agree that ORB is ideal and I'm working on that. At the time I started development, an ORB version that met my specs was 12-18 weeks out, so I opted to develop with the NPT version which was plentiful. I just received an ORB version and will start testing soon, but I expect that all of the dimensions will change due to the compactness of the ORB fittings...which is a good thing, but will likely require rework of all the tubing components.
Need to include that installation is the same on 1026R. You do not mention that.
Thanks for that feedback. I'll add that to the description.
How can I purchase one?
www.hydrosplus.com
Will your kits work on x700s?
Sorry...they will not work on the x700 model.
👍
To bad they don’t make or modify the valve already in the stock flow divider. Instead of 50/50 ratio make it have 66.6/33.3 ratio. Do they make such a valve?
It's possible that one exists, but the manufacturer of the flow divider is not clear - no markings on the device. It's also possible that the valve is unique since the PTO switch is integrated, but I would be surprised.
You still have a challenge of more than needed flow going to the steering circuit if you want to achieve an implement flow of >7 GPMs. You would need a pump that is north of 11 GPMs to get there if you change the ratio to a 33/66, which in my testing, has been a challenge due to the relatively high rpms of this engine. The bigger the gear pump gets, the slower it wants to go so it doesn't cavitate. Everything I've tested that's much about 10 GPMs has had issues at WOT.
With the HydrosPlus system, you can get 7.5 - 8 GPMs to the implements with the 9.5 GPM pump.
Modify the actual flow divider piece he removed. Need to know how to machine it so the openings are bigger for the implement side
Got sick if waiting on back order kit for this and had a machinist modify the diverter piece with smae speed results and it was less expensive