One thing you could do if you’re using a g- clamp is keep the old pad installed then put the clamp a push the piston back. That way you don’t risk damaging it
Thanks for the well made video. What I liked most was showing how to compress the piston using a G clamp, instead of some fancy compression tool. The only advantage in them is compressing and rotating the piston at the same time. But not worth paying …the few extra bobs. Tomorrow I am taking on this task & will use an innocent looking G clamp lying in the garage. Cheers.
Excellent video. Just agreed purchase on a golf so your video is especially welcome. Great to see a bit of proper car and camera work. I used to use copper grease on everything but now use copper for touching metal and red rubber grease for anything touching rubber. Brakes are simple when you know how but as you’ve shown can be a work of art. Many thanks.
Thanks for the comment! I hope it helps you out. I have got another couple of Golf videos to get up on here too, so you might want to look out for them.
Great video. I need to change my front pads on my mk4, do I need a torque wrench to set it to 30Nm, or can I just use a standard wrench until it's tight?
Which side of the vehicle is the sensor pad, the driver side or passenger side? Inspecting my car both sides seem to have a sensors yet the box only comes with one.
Did everything as demonstrated. Only now my brakes are spongy and the car hardly stops. The brakes dont have that bite. Bled the whole systemnew fluid and all. Mk4 golf. Any advice?
You did put the copper grease on the right side of the pads?? 😉 Strange one that. They will feel a bit spongy at first whilst they bed in, but should clear up pretty quickly. Spongy usually means air in the fluid, but bleeding usually sorts that!
Hi Charlie. Dunno if you’re active on here still but wanted to say thank you for the massive help in doing my brake pads. I drive an 04 Jetta TDI and the process was almost identical. I have one question though... after unscrewing the brake fluid cap to push in cylinder, then screwing cap back on right after - (doing this process on both sides individually as i go along) I noticed a bit of fluid overflow near the end and I lost a tiny bit to the floor. Not a large size puddle at all maybe 3 inches wide. I began bleeding brakes both before start up and after and when driving I experienced spongy pedal that would go all the way to the floor. The actual braking mechanism works great but the pedal is spongy. Should I wait to break in my pads? Or do I maybe have air in my master cylinder now? I know this is a lot so maybe I should take it to a forum but figured i’d ask! Thanks again.
Apologies.....this message was held up in my spam folder for some reason! I would say there could be some air in the system, or possibly it is too full. Make sure it is only up to max and no more. Thanks for watching!
CharlieShooters KnowHow Yeah it did mate, it’s funny how everyone does things slightly different. I am starting a new job in this industry again as I have been away from it for the last 12 years, so I’m trying to get back up to speed and all these videos from guys like you who take the time to do them i am grateful for as they really help so thanks again buddy.
No you shouldn't do, but it depends if the fluid has been topped up since the pads have been run down. If no one has done that it should just go back up to the maximum level.
@@charlieshooter Hello mate i got a noise when you put clutch down on this car any ideas what it could be. Release bearing maybe? I posted a video of it on my channel, Cheers
It can be a worry working on the one thing that is stopping you hurtling towards the back of another vehicle, but it is probably one of the simplest jobs! Plus....I would imagine you are used to working on things without any room for error! 😉😂
Anti-seize (cooper grease) on the calliper guide pins!!! Very dangerous. That should be blue thread locker on there so the bolts don't come out. Copper grease will help them come loose, and potentially cause an accident. And your guide pins were not moving freely, you said they were and didn't need grease. They did need grease, they were almost seized.
Thanks for taking the time to comment, but Loctite isn't needed if everything is torqued correctly. Did you see the force needed to undo them at the beginning of the vid. I changed them last and used the exact same technique last time including copper grease. If there was a worry the grease would cause them to come loose people wouldn't put copper grease on wheel bolts....but they do. It just makes sure you can get them off next time and stops them seizing with all that heat. 2 years down the line and my brake caliper hasn't come loose yet! As for the pins, the video doesn't show it properly really, but they were sliding fine and as they should. 👍🏼
@@charlieshooter I was always told to not use any kind of grease on wheel bolts, not because copper grease would do any harm or cause the wheels to fall off, but because it is then impossible to know how tightly you are clamping the wheels on. At the specified torque they will be clamped tighter than they should be if the bolts are greased. If they published another, lower toque setting for wheel bolts with copper grease it would be fine, but they don't, so we are left guessing unless the bolts are installed dry. I'd say the same applies to brake CARRIER bolts, but I wouldn't be concerned about the slider bolts, as I don't believe the torque setting is critical on those. I cleaned up the sliders and lubricated them with silicone grease (safer with rubber) and inevitably some got onto the threads too. I'm not any kind of expert, and in fact this is the first time I have ever changed pads and discs on a car, hence why I'm trying to be super careful and thorough, but I reckon no copper grease if the torque setting is critical, but otherwise it's fine.
@@charlieshooter oh i see.. was just wondering if its the 280mm brake discs. I want to convert my 1.6 polos brakes to the golf 4 2.0's brakes to help so down more efficiently. Thank you
Not on the front of them, agreed! But there's no harm in putting it on the back to stop a bit of squealing and make them easier to get off the next time. I've never had any problems.
@@charlieshooter Squealing come from cheap pads. If you had pushed the piston in a little bit before removing the caliper. They would have been easier to remove. Also you should have turned your rotors. It would also help if you spray some water on that unit. Do you live on a dirt road?
That's not quite true: there are different types of grease that suit different parts of the braking components. Copper grease/slip is okay for some things but I'd recommend something like the ProSlip grease system which includes three different types of lubricant/grease: one for pins, one for pads and one for clips. Copper grease is okay but it can sometimes interfere with sensors/electrical fitments that connect to the braking system. That's just my opinion.
@@JontyLand You never put grease anywhere on your pads. Yes I know there are a lot of techs who do that. Techs are not that smart. If someone tell them to do something. They will do it for life and never ask why.
@@blackericdenice I'm sorry, buddy but we'll have to agree to disagree. If you want to see the reasons for applying appropriate lubricants to parts of the braking system (including pads) then i recommend this video: ua-cam.com/video/sOpqga1mUX8/v-deo.html It explains why certain lubricants are not only perfectly safe to use but are also essential when ensuring that your calipers are working at 100% efficacy.
![Bremsscheiben & Bremsbeläge wechseln (Vorderachse) - VW Golf 4 [TUTORIAL]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9sQhBA9Or6Y/mqdefault.jpg)
Couldnt ask for a better tutorial, although I've changed pads on all my car's I still like to make sure 😝
Thanks. Pleased to help out!
Excellent. Very clear. I was just doing mine and had forgotten which way the spring clip fitted. Should have taken a photo before I started!
Glad it helped. I often take photos when I take things apart now!
One thing you could do if you’re using a g- clamp is keep the old pad installed then put the clamp a push the piston back. That way you don’t risk damaging it
Fab idea! Not sure why I've never done this. 👍🏼👍🏼
@@charlieshooter another thing to do his to clean up the outside of the piston before pressing it back in
Thanks Charlie!
With your help, I got the front brake pads changed today.
Brilliant....glad the video helped you out!
Good. Clearly done. Thanks. Am pleased you don't have one of those thick British narration accents that so many of these DIY videos are prone to have.
Brilliant! I'm pleased my accent didn't offend too! 👍🏼👍🏼
@@charlieshooter didn't notice an accent! ???
Thanks for the well made video. What I liked most was showing how to compress the piston using a G clamp, instead of some fancy compression tool. The only advantage in them is compressing and rotating the piston at the same time. But not worth paying …the few extra bobs. Tomorrow I am taking on this task & will use an innocent looking G clamp lying in the garage. Cheers.
No problem, I hope it works out ok for you. Been using a G-clamp ever since the first time i did this job!
Thanks, I'm going to change my brake pads and rotors on my A3 tomorrow. This helped me out!
I'm glad you found it useful! It's an easy enough job, as long as you follow all the steps in the video. Good luck.
10/10 for your DIY Brake Pad Replacement Guide. Its the same model Golf im working on, couldnt of done it without your guide 😊 thank you 👍👍👏
I'm glad it is still helping people out! 👍🏼 Thanks for commenting.
Good job my man. Very informative and descriptive.
Cheers, hope it helped you out!
Thanks man. I’m doing mine for the first time.
Good luck! Hope it all went ok! 👍🏼
Excellent video. Just agreed purchase on a golf so your video is especially welcome. Great to see a bit of proper car and camera work. I used to use copper grease on everything but now use copper for touching metal and red rubber grease for anything touching rubber. Brakes are simple when you know how but as you’ve shown can be a work of art. Many thanks.
Thanks for the comment! I hope it helps you out. I have got another couple of Golf videos to get up on here too, so you might want to look out for them.
Best tutorial ever! Thanks.
Cheers! Thanks for the feedback. Hope it helped you out!
Nice work lad, thanks!
No problem, thanks for commenting!
great video, this is how every instructional video should be.
Cheers buddy! Appreciate the lovely comment. 👍🏼
Thanks for your tutorials
No problem, hope they helped.
Really good 'real world' informative video, thanks for all the effort in the detail 👍
No problem. Thanks for leaving a comment!
Incredibly helpful. Thanks so much mate!
Glad to hear it helped you out. Thanks for commenting.
excellent video, incredibly well detailed and explained. well played mate
Thank you! Hope it helped!
Cool trick with the red thing
The G-clamp? I've been using that same G-clamp for the last 20 years of changing brake pads! 👍🏼
Stick a flat blade screwdriver between caliper & brake pad to lever piston in slightly to help with removal of caliper off disc .
That can help. Just be cardful you don't catch any rubber seals. 👍🏼
Thanks mate really helpful.
Thanks for commenting! 👍🏼
Thank you very much. Nicely explained.
Thanks. Glad you found it easy to follow! 👍🏼
7mm allen key. Those engineers probably had a good laugh. Thanks for the video.
Never in any sets!! 🙈
Great video. I need to change my front pads on my mk4, do I need a torque wrench to set it to 30Nm, or can I just use a standard wrench until it's tight?
You 'should' use a torque wrench BUT for years i used to just do them until they were (in my eyes) tight enough!
Excellent 👌🏼👍🏽👌🏽
Cheers, hope it helped! 👍🏼
Love the video, buy all the cars and make videos !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If only!! 😂
Excellent presentation
Thank you!
Which side of the vehicle is the sensor pad, the driver side or passenger side? Inspecting my car both sides seem to have a sensors yet the box only comes with one.
If im honest, i can't remember, but it should only be on one side.
Did everything as demonstrated. Only now my brakes are spongy and the car hardly stops. The brakes dont have that bite. Bled the whole systemnew fluid and all. Mk4 golf. Any advice?
You did put the copper grease on the right side of the pads?? 😉 Strange one that. They will feel a bit spongy at first whilst they bed in, but should clear up pretty quickly. Spongy usually means air in the fluid, but bleeding usually sorts that!
@@charlieshooter
Done a little research and it might be the ABS pump that needs to bleeding. Only problem I dont have the vcds thingy.
You didn’t mention when to tighten the brake fluid cap. Before or after pumping brakes?
Didn't I? Before....definitely before!
You did perfect job 👍
Thanks very much! 👍🏼
Thanks a lot !!! Really good job !!!
Thank you. Glad it helped! 👍🏼
Sound thanks
No problem! 👍🏼
Good job mate
Thank you, thanks for commenting. 👍🏼
Nice video mate....... many thanks
Thanks for commenting, and hope it helped you out.
@@charlieshooter
It was really informative video .... I wish i could have the tools and could do it following your steps
Hi Charlie. Dunno if you’re active on here still but wanted to say thank you for the massive help in doing my brake pads. I drive an 04 Jetta TDI and the process was almost identical. I have one question though... after unscrewing the brake fluid cap to push in cylinder, then screwing cap back on right after - (doing this process on both sides individually as i go along) I noticed a bit of fluid overflow near the end and I lost a tiny bit to the floor. Not a large size puddle at all maybe 3 inches wide. I began bleeding brakes both before start up and after and when driving I experienced spongy pedal that would go all the way to the floor. The actual braking mechanism works great but the pedal is spongy. Should I wait to break in my pads? Or do I maybe have air in my master cylinder now? I know this is a lot so maybe I should take it to a forum but figured i’d ask! Thanks again.
Apologies.....this message was held up in my spam folder for some reason! I would say there could be some air in the system, or possibly it is too full. Make sure it is only up to max and no more. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video!
No problem, thanks for leaving a comment!
No problem, thanks for leaving a comment!
Any substitute for copper grease?
I've not used anything else and have always had a tub handy in the garage.
do you have a link to the hexbit you used to great the breaks off?
The one I used is about 20 years old, but here is a similar one....
amzn.to/3u7SUfw
@@charlieshooter thank you, ive been looking for something to get those brake calipers off
Thank you 😊
No problem!👍🏼
good video easy as to follow
Thanks for commenting. Hope it helped you out!
bought the pads today, just waiting for a cooler day than 41c we are enduring at the moment.@@charlieshooter
I don't blame you.....41°C doesn't sound like fun for working on the car! I take it you're not in the UK! 😉
no south australia, do you have a video on pass front door lock keep flashing door open until you slam the door thanks
@@charlieshooter
I don't sorry, but it could be an issue with the micro-switch in the door handle/mechanism?
Thanks for sharing mate.
No problem, hope it helped you out!
CharlieShooters KnowHow Yeah it did mate, it’s funny how everyone does things slightly different. I am starting a new job in this industry again as I have been away from it for the last 12 years, so I’m trying to get back up to speed and all these videos from guys like you who take the time to do them i am grateful for as they really help so thanks again buddy.
No problem....its good to hear things like this. It makes it all worthwhile!
Keep doing them and don't fall for fake criticism :-)
Will do! There's plenty of that about!!
9:00 how much did you put nm?
30NM, it does pop up on the screen. 👍🏼
When you push the piston in do you lose any fluid out the cap?
No you shouldn't do, but it depends if the fluid has been topped up since the pads have been run down. If no one has done that it should just go back up to the maximum level.
@@charlieshooter ok thanks man, just bough a Gt tdi 130.
@@sirius236 Great reliable, economical, but quick cars!
@@charlieshooter yeah man pretty nippy, needs a few bits doing but like it. 👍
@@charlieshooter Hello mate i got a noise when you put clutch down on this car any ideas what it could be. Release bearing maybe? I posted a video of it on my channel, Cheers
Are the rear calipers the same?
No, they are quite a bit different and need winding back in.
Very good video. However, I'm not going to attempt it as no room for error and rather leave to expert
It can be a worry working on the one thing that is stopping you hurtling towards the back of another vehicle, but it is probably one of the simplest jobs! Plus....I would imagine you are used to working on things without any room for error! 😉😂
Anti-seize (cooper grease) on the calliper guide pins!!! Very dangerous. That should be blue thread locker on there so the bolts don't come out. Copper grease will help them come loose, and potentially cause an accident. And your guide pins were not moving freely, you said they were and didn't need grease. They did need grease, they were almost seized.
Thanks for taking the time to comment, but Loctite isn't needed if everything is torqued correctly. Did you see the force needed to undo them at the beginning of the vid. I changed them last and used the exact same technique last time including copper grease. If there was a worry the grease would cause them to come loose people wouldn't put copper grease on wheel bolts....but they do. It just makes sure you can get them off next time and stops them seizing with all that heat. 2 years down the line and my brake caliper hasn't come loose yet! As for the pins, the video doesn't show it properly really, but they were sliding fine and as they should. 👍🏼
@@charlieshooter I was always told to not use any kind of grease on wheel bolts, not because copper grease would do any harm or cause the wheels to fall off, but because it is then impossible to know how tightly you are clamping the wheels on. At the specified torque they will be clamped tighter than they should be if the bolts are greased. If they published another, lower toque setting for wheel bolts with copper grease it would be fine, but they don't, so we are left guessing unless the bolts are installed dry.
I'd say the same applies to brake CARRIER bolts, but I wouldn't be concerned about the slider bolts, as I don't believe the torque setting is critical on those. I cleaned up the sliders and lubricated them with silicone grease (safer with rubber) and inevitably some got onto the threads too.
I'm not any kind of expert, and in fact this is the first time I have ever changed pads and discs on a car, hence why I'm trying to be super careful and thorough, but I reckon no copper grease if the torque setting is critical, but otherwise it's fine.
was this a 2.0 Jetta/Golf?
This is a 1.9 GT TDi, probably a similar spec.
@@charlieshooter oh i see.. was just wondering if its the 280mm brake discs. I want to convert my 1.6 polos brakes to the golf 4 2.0's brakes to help so down more efficiently. Thank you
@@charlieshooter a quick google did it. Same size discs as a 2.0 😁😁
@@emmanuelgeorge7199 You beat me to it! That's what I was going to do. 👍🏼
@@charlieshooter no worries man 👌
Don't forget clean disc on both sides.
The discs only need a clean if you've got grease over them really!
👌👌👍👏👏
6:50 You only need to grease your slide bolts. You don't ever put grease anywhere on the pads.
Not on the front of them, agreed! But there's no harm in putting it on the back to stop a bit of squealing and make them easier to get off the next time. I've never had any problems.
@@charlieshooter Squealing come from cheap pads. If you had pushed the piston in a little bit before removing the caliper. They would have been easier to remove. Also you should have turned your rotors. It would also help if you spray some water on that unit. Do you live on a dirt road?
That's not quite true: there are different types of grease that suit different parts of the braking components. Copper grease/slip is okay for some things but I'd recommend something like the ProSlip grease system which includes three different types of lubricant/grease: one for pins, one for pads and one for clips. Copper grease is okay but it can sometimes interfere with sensors/electrical fitments that connect to the braking system. That's just my opinion.
@@JontyLand You never put grease anywhere on your pads. Yes I know there are a lot of techs who do that. Techs are not that smart. If someone tell them to do something. They will do it for life and never ask why.
@@blackericdenice I'm sorry, buddy but we'll have to agree to disagree. If you want to see the reasons for applying appropriate lubricants to parts of the braking system (including pads) then i recommend this video: ua-cam.com/video/sOpqga1mUX8/v-deo.html
It explains why certain lubricants are not only perfectly safe to use but are also essential when ensuring that your calipers are working at 100% efficacy.
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Thank You !
No problem, hope it helped you out!