I have used both....they both work excellent , l was concerned about the filter in the mase one but it was perfect , the one we tested has over 130.000km and still working 👌🏻(cleaning the filter every 20.000km.)
When you say 'cleaning the filter" are you just pulling it out and hitting it with some degreaser? good to know you've had a good run with this, I brought one off ebay off some goon who claimed it was a ProVent. Could see right out of the box it wasn't so I came looking for any videos of the cheap chinese version to see what people's experience of them was. Looks like I got lucky.
Thanks for making this video. Only thing, is that the lower valve should not be removed and capped as you state in your video. That valve, I believe, is specifically fotted to ensure that the vacuum created by the turbo is high, it doesn't suck the oil that is caught or pull too much oil from the crank case.
Hi ziad, I have explained this before, either in the comments and in the video. This valve is not there to compensate for the turbo sucking too much. It is there to equalise the pressure of the oil sloshing in the oil sump. This oil catch can is designed to return the oil collected to the oil sump. Inevitably oil sloshes around and this valve equalises this pressure. A question for you, in the normal setup (no oil catch can) what is to stop the turbo sucking the oil out of the crankcase? Answer PCV, CCV or whatever valve you want to call it, thus this valve does not server the same purpose.
Just a point abut the capacity. The catch can itself should not hold your caught oil. Run a long drain hose out from the bottom, that is where the oil should drain to, right out of the can. If you use a clear hose you can see when it needs to be drained. Also if you are catching a lot of oil, the most likely cause is running oil that is too thin. I get way less oil out of my blow-by since I switched form 5-30 to 10-40, closer to the temperatures I actually use the vehicle in.
Hi Noises, thanks for the comment and I completely agree and this is how I use it. I do not get too much oil, but rather a lot of water and some oil, but that is because the current weather is pretty rainy around my parts. I would have to buy larger hose in order to collect more.
I'm planning on buying a new diesel 4x4 this year, as much as I like to buy cheap, ill pay the extra and buy the Provent with correct hoses and mounting brackets for the particular vehicle (Isuzu) I'm planning to own.
Yes, I agree with this, although the original one is really expensive. I only made this for people that cannot quite afford the original one and see what the cheap ones look/feel like.
Has anyone tried to use the "real" Provent 200 filters in this unit? If not, do you have any idea of what filters would fit if we should happen to need a replacement or even a better filter if they exist?
Provent 200 is designed for closed system crankcase ventilation. So for those diesel engines that have a valve in the hose from crankcase to air intake/turbo intake. However, if you have a vehicle like pajero, they are open systems. So need to remove the lower spring valve to keep it fully open and not restrict crankcase pressure. The drain hose would be best drained to a clear sealed container.
Hi Scott, I absolutely agree that the Provent 200 is designed for a closed system. I only chose it because the in/out are 25mm and will not result in an increase in the engine's crankcase. I have a 1.6HDi (Peugeot Partner) and the crankcase has a nearly identical valve to the Provent 200. In effect there will be 2 valves, one too many, hence the idea to remove the Provent 200 prressure valve. I have a clear hose with a gas valve at the end to make it not open to the atmosphere, so to operate as designed.
@@moremolecules . I also believe that the steel mesh screen is better to have than the cotton. It is easily cleaned and refused infinite really. It may not trap as much blow by, but the cotton gets blocked quickly and therefore creates crankcase pressure. I recommend a plate with 10mm hole over the egr pipe. I don't recommend full block as it then takes the engine longer to warm up. If a engine is taking longer to warm up, it can't really be good. Mine seems to work good. But I probably don't have so much blow by. With a heavy breather that possibly has upper valve stem wear, then maybe they best do full egr block. But I can't imagine a heavy breather would use cotton filter in catch can because would get super blocked real quick. With a heavy breather I would run the catch can hose back into the sump. This could be done through the dipstick if can get hose over the top. As for people thinking catch cans are not necessary. Well, even new motors breathe this oil and it certainly not good to electronic sensors, intercooler, turbo etc. This isn't carbon that just burns off through regular high temp driving. In fact it traps the carbon in it's gunk. And for those who put catch cans with smaller inlet or outlet hoses than factory size, or without pressure release valve, then look out for oil to start leaking from the engine as that increased crackcase pressure forces oil out from other seals. It is vital that catch cans have pressure release as not everyone checks when catch can is full. Remember in the old days, blow by was just a hose running out to the road!! And that is why older motorcyclists never pull up at lights in the centre or even ride in centre. I learnt that back in 80s with my first bike license and to basically not ride motorcycle when first rain appears after long dry. Thanks for your video.
@@forestjuice88 Thank you Scott for the great comment. You are absolutely right about the oil coming from the crankcase breather and dry carbon from the EGR valve. Both create a rather nasty mixture that creates restrictions and does havoc within the engine. I am actually for EGR flow, reduces NOx gasses and I am only left to tackle the other problem, oil coming from the crankcase breather. If that is elliminated or greatly reduced, the carbon coming from the EGR valve is of limited problem. I am thinking of testing the metal mesh filter with the original cotton one. I will also have a look at the crankcase pressure, once it gets full.
@@moremolecules Hi thanks for your video, very useful. I'm interested in fitting a catch can provent 200 on a PSA/FORD 2.0 TDCI 103KW. (if i have enough room) Im trying to figure out if it's a closed or open crankcase ventilation. Thanks
@@boost351 It should work pretty well with the 2.0 TDCi if you can find space. In any case the Provent200 is closed crankcase ventilation. I chose not to return the whatever is captured in the crankcase. I have a hose coming from the bottom with a gas valve to stop it from sucking air from the bottom. Once it fills I empty it. Problem is my hose is too small diameter and in winter have to empty quite often, due to the catch can filtering the water. Browse my videos, I have a few showing I have done it.
I've got one like yours. it's collecting oil however there is a heap of oil still traversing to the turbo. maybe mine is not as good. I have TD5 engine, a very heavy breather and wonder if the can keep up under load. how did you test the crank case pressure?
Hi Troy, that is a really interesting question/observation. As far as I can see on mine there is some oil passing through the oil catch can. I mean, the oil catch can is not 100% efficient in separating the oil, but that is to be expected. I am also not certain what the actual efficiency is, but it does not seem to be too much oil that passes through. What I noticed is that my turbo lets a bit of oil through the compressor side and leaves a circular oily line on the silicone intake hose. I have just replaced my turbo, so will see if that is remedied. I think my 1.6HDi is not a heavy breather. I always had in my mind that the oil catch can will create some restriction and blow seals, etc. I manufactured a device (Bosch DPF sensor) and hooked it up to my oil filler cap. Measure the pressure with arduino before and after the oil catch can. There was not any difference, at least with my setup. You can check in my videos (ua-cam.com/video/0zatD8dprTk/v-deo.html). I also have a code for the arduino and how it works with fairly detailed explanation. If you have something like this you can measure the pressure and compare to mine. Hope this helps.
@@moremolecules Well done, and good thinking. Its good to see how you have technically evaluated the CAN. As opposed to every other review which basically does an unpacking. I think I'm going to change the outlet to be straight through, maybe the engine was developing too much pressure and passing it through somehow
@@troymortimer3487 Thank you for the good words. I will have to perform some other tests as well, as I am still not satisfied with my understanding of the performance of this oil catch can, or in that respect any oil catch can. I guess it will always come down to efficiency compared to the restriction of the air flow. Which outlet do you mean?
I had installed an oil catch can few days back, unfortunately I did not realize that it was not designed for Turbo diesel engines, as the size is too small and the hoses are just 3/8 inch. As a result, oil forcefully leaked through the camshaft oil seal. I bought the same copy of Provent200 and had the same issue - the bottom outlet going to the intake having a small gap which I thought might end up to same disaster. So what I did is to remove the rubber and spring and placed the cover back. Whats the purpose of this rubber and spring?
Hi Aishi, it is a pressure regulating valve if the oil catch can is returning oil to the crankcase. Diesels will have already such valve, i.e. PCV, CCV, etc., so not really needed. I also removed the rubber altogether.
Yes it will. You need to block it with something. I have a hose and a valve on the bottom, so there is no vacuum leak. It was designed with the idea to go back to the sump. I use the hose as container for the collected oil and empty from time to time.
@@moremolecules currently finding space on my mini cooper and found one..am using 1 generic small occ on the intake manifold side; the aka provent will be on the intake tube side...any additional thoughts or tips?..thanks so much☕
@@michaelvanna8982 Use hoses that will not collapse under vacuum. Also, not too sure if it is diesel or petrol, but to be on the safe side you may want to use some fuel safe hoses. If it is a diesel, not so crucial.
About that rubber diaphragm you mentioned it restricts the air flow, it’s more permissive than you think. I did the math about the air flow and there would be 201 square mm, cca 2 square cm, thus a hole with a 16 mm diameter. The diaphragm is good because regulates the crankcase pressure so you don’t have vacuum in it and all the seals to be sucked by the turbo. Tell me what you think
Good stuff. The thing is that this valve with the diaphragm is only needed if one is going to return the oil back in the sump. It is there to regulate the pressure between the sump when it is sloshing around the oil. Otherwise is not needed and it is a restriction, despite as you bave said not being that restrictive.
@@gheorghinacov6008 Which diaphragm are you talking about? The one at the bottom or the relief valve at the top? If it is the valve at the bottom, unless you feed to oil back to the sump at the bottom of the Provent 200, there is literally no use of it. It does nothing if you simply collect the oil in a hose or at the bottom. I have never seen anyone putting the oil back in. I would not personally put all the gunk back in. It is probably alright, as the water will just evaporate, but still.
@@moremolecules The side diaphragm has the purpose of maintaining the pressure inside the crankcase. If the turbo creates a too strong vacuum inside the crankcase all the oil seals of the engine could get sucked in. It has nothing to do with the oil that the can catches
@@gheorghinacov6008 Any car that has a turbo has some sort of PCV system. So, the turbo cannot suck all the oil of the crankcase. Sometimes it happens if the PCV valve fails and it is called runaway diesel. Rarely thought. Now, the side diaphragm is on the exit or the Provent 200! So, if the turbo starts pulling strong the valve only opens, does not close! So, this diaphragm will not help you in any case of the turbo pulling no matter how strong.
Hi more molecules, I have peugeot 307 2006 1.6 HDI 110ps, and also have same product which is in video. Do you recommend that bypass the valve which is bottom side of it , right ? And ı have also some worried about crankcase pressure, ı really don't want to increase it even a little bit!
Yeah, the Mann Hummel should be pretty good. I have had it in my 1.6HDi 92bhp for quite some time and have not had problems. The bypass valve I replaced it with a plastic cap. In my humble oppinion it creates additional restriction.
I have they cheap one. I must say it works and filters water vapors quite well on my petrol engine. The problem is that the gaskets from the filtercage and the lid had swollen und sealed no more.Replaced them with Viton gaskets.Now the only problem is that the blow of valve leaks.Conclusion is is that i wont buy a cheap one again, due to of the issuses.Also the filter technology is more improved on the original textile filter.For me it`s buy cheap buy twice.
The seals failing is normal even on the original (when used on a gasoline engine). Mann mentions its specifically for diesel engines, so it makes sense that none of the components would be gasoline resistant. And yes, blow by gases in gasoline engjnes have a slight touch of fuel in them.
Hello and congrats for your research, i just received my chinesse copy of Provent 200, but i have some doubts if it's working correctly. If i take only the inlet cap off and blow air inside i get air leaking between the top o-ring in the cap and the can itself, of course also air leaks throught the top valve also. actually i found that the cap has 2 parts, the external cap with the locking threads and the o-ring with the upper valve part which is inside. Between this o-ring and the case of the can i get leaks if i blow air inside it(considering all other holes are sealed). Is this normal? I would like to know to see if i need to get it back. Thanks for taking your time to answer me.
Yes, that is how it is supposed to be. There is a valve on top where with excessive pressure you get release of the pressure. As far as I know this is set at 50mbar. That is not that much. Blowing with your mouth you can easily achieve much more, so the valve opens. The valve itself should release the pressure between the outer and the inner cap.
@more molecules i understand what you are saying and it is correct to escape air this way. But this one loses air between the body of the can and the superior o-ring of the top cap. The valve has like a 1 inch diameter, the outer diameter of the cap is like 4 inches. And again, the top cap has 2 components, the top one with a thread that comes on the body that doesn't has an o-ring and it's supposed to lose air between the threads and the inferior part of it that has a valve and a o-ring. This inferior part is loosing air between the body of the can and the o-ring if i blow air in it with my mouth. I hope i explained clearly now. Is this working OK? Sorry for my english, it's my second language.
@more molecules maybe a thicker o-ring would do the trick? Like you did with the original filter you mounted, just that here we talk about the o-ring that sists above air intake.
Hi Kritz C, good question. It really depends on if you want to spend the money on the real deal. I did not want to spend that much money, so went for a cheapo version on amazon. I sincerely doubt there is much of a difference between the knock off versions, they really look the same. I might have to do another review of this product, as I learned a few things while using it which I had not thought about before. I am almost certain that all these knock offs come from the same place and just different sellers sell them. You can get the real deal from variety of places. So, short answer, I do not think it really matters where you buy it from, likelihood is that it will be the same product. I would go for a cheaper version, probably not the cheapest.
Thanks @@moremolecules, appreciate the super quick reply. Yes i thought so that all copies would be more or less the same in quality, just the price differences.
@@kritzc2809 No worries. I think if one looks at the pictures of the product the telltale sign that they are the same product is the dimples/patterns that are left on the plastic body. The original does not have them and these are from the mold that was used to make them. As much as I have seen pictures of these, the indentations that are left from the mold are in the exact same place, unless of course they are using different or same stock images.
Hi K J, I cannot really say anything that can explain why yours did not. Mine collects and I do not quite see why it would not. It may be that the threads of the original filter filters better and I may eventually compare that.
@@adi-eduardleustean3997 however being different types of filtering mechanisms (mesh screen vs coalescing fibres) what may apply to the Provent may not necessarily apply to the fake.
I think you are misunderstanding the purpose of the regulating valve at the bottom. It is designed to close when the suction pressure increases too much and this will prevent too much suction from being applied to the breather. Its a pressure regulating valve. It does not release any gases as you mention. Another point to note is that the Provent is designed for a closed system. That means you need to make sure that the drain outlet is not open to the atmosphere all the time. Otherwise, it will not suck properly as the suction will be lost through the drain hole. When this happens, insufficient suction will be generated in the catch can and will not pull gases from the rocker cover. Pressure will build up in your engine crankcase. Normally, the valve on top will activate when this happens and you can see oil seepage from the side of your catch can. Ensure that the oil outlet of the catch can is fitted with a shut off valve. Otherwise pipe it into your sump. These instructions are provided by Mann-Hummel in their instructions.
Hi Prame, thank you for your comment. I agree that it is designed for a closed system, i.e. drain into sump. In that respect, a hose at the bottom with a drain valve works without a problem. I use a gas valve. Absolutely agree that venting to the atmosphere would not work. The pressure regulating valve is only needed if the collected oil is redirected to the sump. All of the diesel engine will have some sort of PCV that has the same function. Now, if it is closed to the sump then it is different, the valve will be needed. I probably did not convey that well. I did not mean that this is not entirely needed, only not needed when not draining into the sump.
@@moremolecules I know this video is a few years old but I'm installing one of these cheap catch cans tomorrow and just wanted to point out that not all diesel engines with closed system has PCV valve. I have a Mitsubishi Triton 2.8L turbo diesel with the 4M40 engine... it doesn't have any PCV valve. Just breather hose going straight to air intake hose. Am I correct in assuming then that in my case I'd need to keep that regulating valve intact at the bottom? I have EGR removed but I noticed some oil getting into turbo which was my biggest concern... installing new turbo and don't want to have it prematurely fail due to oil getting sucked in. Also to keep the intercooler clean of oil -- the 4M40 is a heavy breather at best of times!
@@procrastinator1727 No worries at all, I still try to read all my comments. Yes, I would say keep all the valves, otherwise the turbo might suck a bit of oil.
Not too sure what you mean by restricted valve? Is this the upper relief valve or the bottom one. I already removed the bottom one, it only serves the purpose to equalise the pressure between the crankcase oil and the crankcase, only in the case where the oil collected is returned to the crankcase.
Yes I meant removing the bottom valve as it looks to restrict flow. Perhaps the reason this didn't work for mw is that the stainless mesh is not as efficient.
@@KJ-qw1qm Yes, I agree that he stainless steel mesh might not be as efficient. As said before, on any turbo diesel the bottom valve does not really do anything apart from restricting the flow. The valve only matters if the collected oil by the oil catch can is redirected to the crankcase. To equalize the pressure of the crankcase oil and when it is sloshing around. Otherwise it is just a restriction.
Dear brother! This Copy of the Mann-Hummel Provent 200 oil catch can. Can i use for Nissan Navara engine YD25? and use the longtime have problems with my car? Thanks brother!
@@hungnguyen-fl7wm I had the copy of the provent 200, later on I bought the originl provent 200. Not that much of a difference, but difficult to test if they filter oil the same way.
Does anyone know of something similar to these oil catch cans but designed for petrol engines? I want the high flow, large ports and size of these units but with gaskets designed for petrol and without pressure releases.
@@guitarman376 Diesels in general will have higher crankcase pressure, so any oil catch can that works in a diesel will work in a petrol. Even with much larger petrol engines, the Provent 200 will be fine, up to a certain size of course, then one can go to Provent 300.
@@moremolecules It wasn't the pressures I was concerned about, more the question of how petrol can eat away at certain gasket materials not designed for it. I read an individual report that someone wrote about the seals deteriorating due to this, not sure if that's valid or not. Edit: the product brochure even says it is not designed for anything besides diesel engines.
The filter is closer to the bottom of the oil catch can than to the outlet, but I can see your point. The flow of air is not that strong in order to suck the droplets.
@@moremolecules i see thank you. I have a diesel engine. I've been running is with open PCV system because it is not that strict in our country. I've read that PCV needs vacuum effect to work. Will it be bad for my car? My car doesnt seem to be running bad of any sort. It just emits smoke from the by pass hose I made. Does that not make the pressure escape? And once I shut the car off the smoke automatically stops
@@moremolecules so I got a little bit of guilty. So I still plan to make it open but put an oil catch can in it so that less oil vapor goes to the atmosphere. What do you think? My engine is now.running with this about 4000 km
@@cuvame It is not the end of the day, but it depends on how heavy a breather is your car, how much blow by. The turbo spooling helps some of the gasses to be evacuated, where with open to the air it is only the difference between the crankcase pressure and the atmospheric pressure. It is unlikely that you will blow seals.
@@cuvame Should be alright, at least less gasses and contaminants will go in the atmosphere. You have driver quite a distance with that and you have not seen anything like seeping oil here and there, so it is ok.
Hi. I'm in a process of choosing an oil catch can but I want one with the oil level tube to easily check the level of oil in the tank and I was looking for 750ml tank BUT I have a question could you please give me advice regarding the inlet/outlet size because you said yours is 25mm and I seem to have a problem finding one that size. The biggest I found was 19mm. My engine is the same as yours in citroen c4 picasso 1.6 hdi which looks the same as yours. Taking into account the size of the spout of the ford crank case breather. Any advice will be very much appreciated. Thanks a million in advance and kind regards. Please it's urgent as I'm in a process of replacing the turbo.
Hi Gab, this is a very interesting question. Mine is 25mm inlet/outlet, but I think it would not matter that much if the size is smaller. 19mm should be OK. I think that even the smaller ones will also work OK. Considering that the big american trucks use the cheap oil catch cans that the inlet/outlet are ~12mm and I have not seen anyone complaining about leaking oil from the gaskets. Get something with some sort of baffling system. Good luck with the turbo replacement.
@@moremolecules Thank you so so much for answering me so quick as I'm stuck here waiting for your answer which took less than the time to finish my cup of coffee🥰 you are just awesome THANKS A MILLION AND HOPE YOU ARE HAVING LOVELY WEEKEND AND I WISH YOU THE VERY VERY BEST...ONCE again Thank you very very much👏👏👏👏👍👍👍👍👍🥰🥰🥰🥳🥳🥳❤❤❤
@@LondonCarnaval No worries at all. I try to answer as soon as possible whenever I can. Fit the oil catch can you buy and then monitor the pressure coming out of the oil filler cap. Say the engine is in operating temperature and open the oil filler cap, see if it blows it off. It would mean the pressure is excessive and the inlet/outlet are too small or the oil catch can is too restrictive. I think it should not be a problem.
Hi Steve, I have not had the chance to get one of the Provent 100. Nevertheless, here is berrima diesel's pretty good explanation of the difference between the 200, 150 and 100 (ua-cam.com/video/2RWnJjV241A/v-deo.html). As far as I am aware the difference is only in the size of the filter and of course the inlet/outlet ports. They are just designed for different kW of engine power. Cannot remember on top of my head what was the maximum for the 100, but it should be sufficient, unless you have some monster of an engine. It is basically the same catch can as the 200, only smaller filter and inlet/outlet ports, that's it. Not too sure how the pressure regulating valve is designed in the 100, but if you have a turbo diesel, e.g. HDi/TDCi, I would suggest to remove this valve, but keeping it closed, it serves no purpose if you would not return the oil in the engine. Hope this helps.
Hi Marc, I explained in detail, somewhere in the comments, that I believe this one is an identical copy of the original one. I believe, not 100% certain, that the original filter will fit. I might as well order an original filter and test this.
Hi Michael, yeah, I do not know. I am using this one as the inlet/outlet are decent size (19mm). It really depends on the efficiency and I have not seen much research into that. There was one study and it did show the provent 200 as more efficient than others, so yes, I would recommend it, but how much better is than the other manufacturers it is anyone guess.
This isn't a review if you haven't used it, it's an unboxing. You cant review this unless you've directly compared it to without using it for the same miles and performing a clean of the entire system between each.
Hi is it posible if I could just seal the lower valve system? Since its detachable at probably can cause oil leak instead of collecting the oil on drain?
Hi Jacob, that is what I tried as I thought it is more of a restriction than use. I have not yet found the best thing to achieve that, but I managed to find a drain cap and it was a perfect fit (ua-cam.com/video/QdxyAHP1DVM/v-deo.html). I think the best thing would be to pour gasket sealant and dip the whole valve into that. This will create a perfect seal and it will be oil resistant.
Almost yes. After a year or so of using it, the plastic is not as good as the original one, but if you substitute the stanless steel filter with the original it is a very cheap mann hummel. Somthing like this here: ua-cam.com/video/5yg6qw_Iy6o/v-deo.html
@@gheorghinacov6008 Yes, probably, but I have to buy it from somewhere and I had that silicone hose on hand and seemed to fit pretty good. Seemed cheaper than getting a proper o-ring.
Hi Jon, while I agree it is a bit misleading and a side-by-side comparison is indeed needed, I am yet to see anywhere efficiency comparison. It could well be rubbish and very low efficiency, but it is only hearsay without any hard data/tests.
Thank you for your comment, but how do you know? There was a scientific paper (can find it if you want) that tested oil catch can designs with different sizes of the filters. An important finding was that the time of contact of the gasses with the walls of the catch can substantially mattered. In other words the more contact with walls the more time and chance for the oil droplets to coalesce. The design of both cheap and genuine are nearly identical, i.e. the time gasses are in contact with walls (inlet has tangential contact not 90 degrees) is the same. I have already investigated the return pipe and is free of oil, i.e. the cheap one works IMHO. In addition, a steel mesh filter is less likely to lead to an increased crankcase pressure. The more the original captures and gets blocked the more increase in crankcase pressure one gets. I have not seen any tests on this, especially with time. The fail safe valve on the original is designed to open at 50mbar and that is way too high. You would get oil leakage well before this valve opens.
@@moremolecules it's not the design of the catch can it is the quality of the filter and the layers of the filter I bet that filter only has mesh if you look up the provent 200 you'll see the genuine filter it looks nothing like yours and yours doesn't have the layers
@@darknstormyimages I certainly agree that the filter is not the same. The important question is does it work. No easy way to answer that. You are basically taking the word of Mann-Hummel for granted, i.e. theirs works better. Looking at the state of my outlet pipe suggests that it works. I would take that, unless someone convinces me otherwise. I will monitor this in the long term and see how it behaves. If I start to see that it does not filter, I can buy the original and compare. Knowing how much better the original is as compared to the cheap has not been covered anywhere. 5-10% better does not account for the 4-5x difference in price. The cheap one has layers, it is just basically steel scourer between two layers of metal mesh. This is nearly the same with people stuffing steel scourer things inside the 90 degree oil catch cans.
@@darknstormyimages fun fact; The Man-Hummel (ProVent) filters fit perfectly in the cheap can. That said, I prefer the stainless mesh as it can be cleaned and reused.
This is the information I've been searching for, thanks for sharing. Now to test the efficiency of each, cheap mesh vs genuine provent in the copy can.
I have used both....they both work excellent , l was concerned about the filter in the mase one but it was perfect , the one we tested has over 130.000km and still working 👌🏻(cleaning the filter every 20.000km.)
That is really great and many thanks for commenting on the long-term use of this catch can.
When you say 'cleaning the filter" are you just pulling it out and hitting it with some degreaser? good to know you've had a good run with this, I brought one off ebay off some goon who claimed it was a ProVent. Could see right out of the box it wasn't so I came looking for any videos of the cheap chinese version to see what people's experience of them was. Looks like I got lucky.
@@Noises I do not think there is any cleaning of this particular filter. Probably is getting it out and hitting it with a degreaser.
Thanks for making this video. Only thing, is that the lower valve should not be removed and capped as you state in your video. That valve, I believe, is specifically fotted to ensure that the vacuum created by the turbo is high, it doesn't suck the oil that is caught or pull too much oil from the crank case.
Hi ziad, I have explained this before, either in the comments and in the video. This valve is not there to compensate for the turbo sucking too much. It is there to equalise the pressure of the oil sloshing in the oil sump. This oil catch can is designed to return the oil collected to the oil sump. Inevitably oil sloshes around and this valve equalises this pressure.
A question for you, in the normal setup (no oil catch can) what is to stop the turbo sucking the oil out of the crankcase? Answer PCV, CCV or whatever valve you want to call it, thus this valve does not server the same purpose.
Just a point abut the capacity. The catch can itself should not hold your caught oil. Run a long drain hose out from the bottom, that is where the oil should drain to, right out of the can. If you use a clear hose you can see when it needs to be drained.
Also if you are catching a lot of oil, the most likely cause is running oil that is too thin. I get way less oil out of my blow-by since I switched form 5-30 to 10-40, closer to the temperatures I actually use the vehicle in.
Hi Noises, thanks for the comment and I completely agree and this is how I use it. I do not get too much oil, but rather a lot of water and some oil, but that is because the current weather is pretty rainy around my parts. I would have to buy larger hose in order to collect more.
I'm planning on buying a new diesel 4x4 this year, as much as I like to buy cheap, ill pay the extra and buy the Provent with correct hoses and mounting brackets for the particular vehicle (Isuzu) I'm planning to own.
Yes, I agree with this, although the original one is really expensive. I only made this for people that cannot quite afford the original one and see what the cheap ones look/feel like.
By a Australian brand called Ryco.
Has anyone tried to use the "real" Provent 200 filters in this unit? If not, do you have any idea of what filters would fit if we should happen to need a replacement or even a better filter if they exist?
Hi Clinton, I managed to do that here, needs a bit of padding, here is how I did it: ua-cam.com/video/5yg6qw_Iy6o/v-deo.html
Provent 200 is designed for closed system crankcase ventilation. So for those diesel engines that have a valve in the hose from crankcase to air intake/turbo intake.
However, if you have a vehicle like pajero, they are open systems.
So need to remove the lower spring valve to keep it fully open and not restrict crankcase pressure.
The drain hose would be best drained to a clear sealed container.
Hi Scott, I absolutely agree that the Provent 200 is designed for a closed system. I only chose it because the in/out are 25mm and will not result in an increase in the engine's crankcase. I have a 1.6HDi (Peugeot Partner) and the crankcase has a nearly identical valve to the Provent 200. In effect there will be 2 valves, one too many, hence the idea to remove the Provent 200 prressure valve. I have a clear hose with a gas valve at the end to make it not open to the atmosphere, so to operate as designed.
@@moremolecules . I also believe that the steel mesh screen is better to have than the cotton. It is easily cleaned and refused infinite really.
It may not trap as much blow by, but the cotton gets blocked quickly and therefore creates crankcase pressure.
I recommend a plate with 10mm hole over the egr pipe. I don't recommend full block as it then takes the engine longer to warm up.
If a engine is taking longer to warm up, it can't really be good.
Mine seems to work good. But I probably don't have so much blow by. With a heavy breather that possibly has upper valve stem wear, then maybe they best do full egr block. But I can't imagine a heavy breather would use cotton filter in catch can because would get super blocked real quick.
With a heavy breather I would run the catch can hose back into the sump.
This could be done through the dipstick if can get hose over the top.
As for people thinking catch cans are not necessary.
Well, even new motors breathe this oil and it certainly not good to electronic sensors, intercooler, turbo etc.
This isn't carbon that just burns off through regular high temp driving. In fact it traps the carbon in it's gunk.
And for those who put catch cans with smaller inlet or outlet hoses than factory size, or without pressure release valve, then look out for oil to start leaking from the engine as that increased crackcase pressure forces oil out from other seals.
It is vital that catch cans have pressure release as not everyone checks when catch can is full.
Remember in the old days, blow by was just a hose running out to the road!!
And that is why older motorcyclists never pull up at lights in the centre or even ride in centre. I learnt that back in 80s with my first bike license and to basically not ride motorcycle when first rain appears after long dry.
Thanks for your video.
@@forestjuice88 Thank you Scott for the great comment. You are absolutely right about the oil coming from the crankcase breather and dry carbon from the EGR valve. Both create a rather nasty mixture that creates restrictions and does havoc within the engine. I am actually for EGR flow, reduces NOx gasses and I am only left to tackle the other problem, oil coming from the crankcase breather. If that is elliminated or greatly reduced, the carbon coming from the EGR valve is of limited problem.
I am thinking of testing the metal mesh filter with the original cotton one. I will also have a look at the crankcase pressure, once it gets full.
@@moremolecules
Hi thanks for your video, very useful.
I'm interested in fitting a catch can provent 200 on a PSA/FORD 2.0 TDCI 103KW. (if i have enough room) Im trying to figure out if it's a closed or open crankcase ventilation. Thanks
@@boost351 It should work pretty well with the 2.0 TDCi if you can find space. In any case the Provent200 is closed crankcase ventilation. I chose not to return the whatever is captured in the crankcase. I have a hose coming from the bottom with a gas valve to stop it from sucking air from the bottom. Once it fills I empty it. Problem is my hose is too small diameter and in winter have to empty quite often, due to the catch can filtering the water. Browse my videos, I have a few showing I have done it.
I've got one like yours. it's collecting oil however there is a heap of oil still traversing to the turbo. maybe mine is not as good. I have TD5 engine, a very heavy breather and wonder if the can keep up under load. how did you test the crank case pressure?
Hi Troy, that is a really interesting question/observation. As far as I can see on mine there is some oil passing through the oil catch can. I mean, the oil catch can is not 100% efficient in separating the oil, but that is to be expected. I am also not certain what the actual efficiency is, but it does not seem to be too much oil that passes through. What I noticed is that my turbo lets a bit of oil through the compressor side and leaves a circular oily line on the silicone intake hose. I have just replaced my turbo, so will see if that is remedied. I think my 1.6HDi is not a heavy breather. I always had in my mind that the oil catch can will create some restriction and blow seals, etc. I manufactured a device (Bosch DPF sensor) and hooked it up to my oil filler cap. Measure the pressure with arduino before and after the oil catch can. There was not any difference, at least with my setup. You can check in my videos (ua-cam.com/video/0zatD8dprTk/v-deo.html). I also have a code for the arduino and how it works with fairly detailed explanation. If you have something like this you can measure the pressure and compare to mine. Hope this helps.
@@moremolecules Well done, and good thinking. Its good to see how you have technically evaluated the CAN. As opposed to every other review which basically does an unpacking. I think I'm going to change the outlet to be straight through, maybe the engine was developing too much pressure and passing it through somehow
@@troymortimer3487 Thank you for the good words. I will have to perform some other tests as well, as I am still not satisfied with my understanding of the performance of this oil catch can, or in that respect any oil catch can. I guess it will always come down to efficiency compared to the restriction of the air flow.
Which outlet do you mean?
I had installed an oil catch can few days back, unfortunately I did not realize that it was not designed for Turbo diesel engines, as the size is too small and the hoses are just 3/8 inch. As a result, oil forcefully leaked through the camshaft oil seal. I bought the same copy of Provent200 and had the same issue - the bottom outlet going to the intake having a small gap which I thought might end up to same disaster. So what I did is to remove the rubber and spring and placed the cover back. Whats the purpose of this rubber and spring?
Hi Aishi, it is a pressure regulating valve if the oil catch can is returning oil to the crankcase. Diesels will have already such valve, i.e. PCV, CCV, etc., so not really needed. I also removed the rubber altogether.
@@moremolecules Thanks.
So is it correct to say that this is an oil separator, rather than a catch can?
Good review...will the drain port cause vacuum leak? Thanks really🍁👍
Yes it will. You need to block it with something. I have a hose and a valve on the bottom, so there is no vacuum leak. It was designed with the idea to go back to the sump. I use the hose as container for the collected oil and empty from time to time.
@@moremolecules currently finding space on my mini cooper and found one..am using 1 generic small occ on the intake manifold side; the aka provent will be on the intake tube side...any additional thoughts or tips?..thanks so much☕
@@michaelvanna8982 Use hoses that will not collapse under vacuum. Also, not too sure if it is diesel or petrol, but to be on the safe side you may want to use some fuel safe hoses. If it is a diesel, not so crucial.
@@moremolecules cool👌
About that rubber diaphragm you mentioned it restricts the air flow, it’s more permissive than you think. I did the math about the air flow and there would be 201 square mm, cca 2 square cm, thus a hole with a 16 mm diameter. The diaphragm is good because regulates the crankcase pressure so you don’t have vacuum in it and all the seals to be sucked by the turbo. Tell me what you think
Good stuff. The thing is that this valve with the diaphragm is only needed if one is going to return the oil back in the sump. It is there to regulate the pressure between the sump when it is sloshing around the oil. Otherwise is not needed and it is a restriction, despite as you bave said not being that restrictive.
@@moremolecules
I would not use the catch can without the valve unless the OEM ventilation system has a diaphragm by factory
@@gheorghinacov6008 Which diaphragm are you talking about? The one at the bottom or the relief valve at the top? If it is the valve at the bottom, unless you feed to oil back to the sump at the bottom of the Provent 200, there is literally no use of it. It does nothing if you simply collect the oil in a hose or at the bottom. I have never seen anyone putting the oil back in. I would not personally put all the gunk back in. It is probably alright, as the water will just evaporate, but still.
@@moremolecules
The side diaphragm has the purpose of maintaining the pressure inside the crankcase. If the turbo creates a too strong vacuum inside the crankcase all the oil seals of the engine could get sucked in. It has nothing to do with the oil that the can catches
@@gheorghinacov6008 Any car that has a turbo has some sort of PCV system. So, the turbo cannot suck all the oil of the crankcase. Sometimes it happens if the PCV valve fails and it is called runaway diesel. Rarely thought. Now, the side diaphragm is on the exit or the Provent 200! So, if the turbo starts pulling strong the valve only opens, does not close! So, this diaphragm will not help you in any case of the turbo pulling no matter how strong.
Hi more molecules,
I have peugeot 307 2006 1.6 HDI 110ps, and also have same product which is in video.
Do you recommend that bypass the valve which is bottom side of it , right ?
And ı have also some worried about crankcase pressure, ı really don't want to increase it even a little bit!
Yeah, the Mann Hummel should be pretty good. I have had it in my 1.6HDi 92bhp for quite some time and have not had problems. The bypass valve I replaced it with a plastic cap. In my humble oppinion it creates additional restriction.
I have they cheap one. I must say it works and filters water vapors quite well on my petrol engine. The problem is that the gaskets from the filtercage and the lid had swollen und sealed no more.Replaced them with Viton gaskets.Now the only problem is that the blow of valve leaks.Conclusion is is that i wont buy a cheap one again, due to of the issuses.Also the filter technology is more improved on the original textile filter.For me it`s buy cheap buy twice.
Yes, it is true buy cheap buy twice, good call. I wanted to give it a go with the cheap one before buying the proper version, which eventually I did.
The seals failing is normal even on the original (when used on a gasoline engine). Mann mentions its specifically for diesel engines, so it makes sense that none of the components would be gasoline resistant. And yes, blow by gases in gasoline engjnes have a slight touch of fuel in them.
@@EmilioMorillo Good call Emilio on the petrol vapor from petrol engines. Inevitably there will be some petrol from the blow-by gasses.
Can I use this on a no turbo engine with just PCV vacuum?
Hello and congrats for your research, i just received my chinesse copy of Provent 200, but i have some doubts if it's working correctly. If i take only the inlet cap off and blow air inside i get air leaking between the top o-ring in the cap and the can itself, of course also air leaks throught the top valve also. actually i found that the cap has 2 parts, the external cap with the locking threads and the o-ring with the upper valve part which is inside. Between this o-ring and the case of the can i get leaks if i blow air inside it(considering all other holes are sealed). Is this normal? I would like to know to see if i need to get it back. Thanks for taking your time to answer me.
Yes, that is how it is supposed to be. There is a valve on top where with excessive pressure you get release of the pressure. As far as I know this is set at 50mbar. That is not that much. Blowing with your mouth you can easily achieve much more, so the valve opens. The valve itself should release the pressure between the outer and the inner cap.
@more molecules i understand what you are saying and it is correct to escape air this way. But this one loses air between the body of the can and the superior o-ring of the top cap. The valve has like a 1 inch diameter, the outer diameter of the cap is like 4 inches. And again, the top cap has 2 components, the top one with a thread that comes on the body that doesn't has an o-ring and it's supposed to lose air between the threads and the inferior part of it that has a valve and a o-ring. This inferior part is loosing air between the body of the can and the o-ring if i blow air in it with my mouth. I hope i explained clearly now. Is this working OK? Sorry for my english, it's my second language.
@more molecules maybe a thicker o-ring would do the trick? Like you did with the original filter you mounted, just that here we talk about the o-ring that sists above air intake.
@@myloalex Not too sure where the air is coming from. You could send me an e-mail with a photo or post a youtube video, it will be clearer.
Hi, there are so many sellers for the copy version, how to you differentiate which one is worth to buy?
Hi Kritz C, good question. It really depends on if you want to spend the money on the real deal. I did not want to spend that much money, so went for a cheapo version on amazon. I sincerely doubt there is much of a difference between the knock off versions, they really look the same. I might have to do another review of this product, as I learned a few things while using it which I had not thought about before. I am almost certain that all these knock offs come from the same place and just different sellers sell them. You can get the real deal from variety of places. So, short answer, I do not think it really matters where you buy it from, likelihood is that it will be the same product. I would go for a cheaper version, probably not the cheapest.
Thanks @@moremolecules, appreciate the super quick reply. Yes i thought so that all copies would be more or less the same in quality, just the price differences.
@@kritzc2809 No worries. I think if one looks at the pictures of the product the telltale sign that they are the same product is the dimples/patterns that are left on the plastic body. The original does not have them and these are from the mold that was used to make them. As much as I have seen pictures of these, the indentations that are left from the mold are in the exact same place, unless of course they are using different or same stock images.
Thanks @@moremolecules for the tips. Sure helps :-)
Tried this and didn't collect anything in 3000Km. Went to genuine ProVent 200, and managed to collect 70ml in 2000Km.
Hi K J, I cannot really say anything that can explain why yours did not. Mine collects and I do not quite see why it would not. It may be that the threads of the original filter filters better and I may eventually compare that.
In the presentation video from Mann filters they say that their filter needs some time to get wet with oil and then start to drip the excess from it.
@@adi-eduardleustean3997 however being different types of filtering mechanisms (mesh screen vs coalescing fibres) what may apply to the Provent may not necessarily apply to the fake.
I think you are misunderstanding the purpose of the regulating valve at the bottom. It is designed to close when the suction pressure increases too much and this will prevent too much suction from being applied to the breather. Its a pressure regulating valve. It does not release any gases as you mention. Another point to note is that the Provent is designed for a closed system. That means you need to make sure that the drain outlet is not open to the atmosphere all the time. Otherwise, it will not suck properly as the suction will be lost through the drain hole. When this happens, insufficient suction will be generated in the catch can and will not pull gases from the rocker cover. Pressure will build up in your engine crankcase. Normally, the valve on top will activate when this happens and you can see oil seepage from the side of your catch can. Ensure that the oil outlet of the catch can is fitted with a shut off valve. Otherwise pipe it into your sump. These instructions are provided by Mann-Hummel in their instructions.
Hi Prame, thank you for your comment. I agree that it is designed for a closed system, i.e. drain into sump. In that respect, a hose at the bottom with a drain valve works without a problem. I use a gas valve. Absolutely agree that venting to the atmosphere would not work. The pressure regulating valve is only needed if the collected oil is redirected to the sump. All of the diesel engine will have some sort of PCV that has the same function. Now, if it is closed to the sump then it is different, the valve will be needed. I probably did not convey that well. I did not mean that this is not entirely needed, only not needed when not draining into the sump.
@@moremolecules I know this video is a few years old but I'm installing one of these cheap catch cans tomorrow and just wanted to point out that not all diesel engines with closed system has PCV valve. I have a Mitsubishi Triton 2.8L turbo diesel with the 4M40 engine... it doesn't have any PCV valve. Just breather hose going straight to air intake hose. Am I correct in assuming then that in my case I'd need to keep that regulating valve intact at the bottom? I have EGR removed but I noticed some oil getting into turbo which was my biggest concern... installing new turbo and don't want to have it prematurely fail due to oil getting sucked in. Also to keep the intercooler clean of oil -- the 4M40 is a heavy breather at best of times!
@@procrastinator1727 No worries at all, I still try to read all my comments. Yes, I would say keep all the valves, otherwise the turbo might suck a bit of oil.
Very good can and well made, a bit difficult finding 25mm reduces but with some searching and ingenuity mines fitted :-)
What would happen if the restricted valve is removed ?
Not too sure what you mean by restricted valve? Is this the upper relief valve or the bottom one. I already removed the bottom one, it only serves the purpose to equalise the pressure between the crankcase oil and the crankcase, only in the case where the oil collected is returned to the crankcase.
Yes I meant removing the bottom valve as it looks to restrict flow. Perhaps the reason this didn't work for mw is that the stainless mesh is not as efficient.
@@KJ-qw1qm Yes, I agree that he stainless steel mesh might not be as efficient. As said before, on any turbo diesel the bottom valve does not really do anything apart from restricting the flow. The valve only matters if the collected oil by the oil catch can is redirected to the crankcase. To equalize the pressure of the crankcase oil and when it is sloshing around. Otherwise it is just a restriction.
Dear brother!
This Copy of the Mann-Hummel Provent 200 oil catch can. Can i use for Nissan Navara engine YD25? and use the longtime have problems with my car?
Thanks brother!
Yes certianly can be used with the Nissan Navara. There were a few videos around youtube showing it on the nissan, so it should not be a problem.
@@moremoleculesOk many thanks you, i buyed this, but i worry Oil Catch Can copy use not good. Because in VietNam I can't buy goods real.
@@moremolecules and your car use Mann-Hummel Provent real or copy of the Mann-Hummel Provent ?
@@hungnguyen-fl7wm I had the copy of the provent 200, later on I bought the originl provent 200. Not that much of a difference, but difficult to test if they filter oil the same way.
Does anyone know of something similar to these oil catch cans but designed for petrol engines? I want the high flow, large ports and size of these units but with gaskets designed for petrol and without pressure releases.
Mann Hummel Provent 200 would work in diesel and petrol engines. You get large ports as well.
@@moremolecules Can I ask how you know? I couldnt find anything verifying it. Thank you.
@@guitarman376 Diesels in general will have higher crankcase pressure, so any oil catch can that works in a diesel will work in a petrol. Even with much larger petrol engines, the Provent 200 will be fine, up to a certain size of course, then one can go to Provent 300.
@@moremolecules It wasn't the pressures I was concerned about, more the question of how petrol can eat away at certain gasket materials not designed for it. I read an individual report that someone wrote about the seals deteriorating due to this, not sure if that's valid or not. Edit: the product brochure even says it is not designed for anything besides diesel engines.
@@guitarman376 Aaa, good to know. Probably the gaskets will get eaten from the petrol fumes...
Dont you think the filter is too near the outlet port? When the oil tries to drip down wont it get suck into the outlet port??
The filter is closer to the bottom of the oil catch can than to the outlet, but I can see your point. The flow of air is not that strong in order to suck the droplets.
@@moremolecules i see thank you. I have a diesel engine. I've been running is with open PCV system because it is not that strict in our country. I've read that PCV needs vacuum effect to work. Will it be bad for my car? My car doesnt seem to be running bad of any sort. It just emits smoke from the by pass hose I made. Does that not make the pressure escape? And once I shut the car off the smoke automatically stops
@@moremolecules so I got a little bit of guilty. So I still plan to make it open but put an oil catch can in it so that less oil vapor goes to the atmosphere. What do you think? My engine is now.running with this about 4000 km
@@cuvame It is not the end of the day, but it depends on how heavy a breather is your car, how much blow by. The turbo spooling helps some of the gasses to be evacuated, where with open to the air it is only the difference between the crankcase pressure and the atmospheric pressure. It is unlikely that you will blow seals.
@@cuvame Should be alright, at least less gasses and contaminants will go in the atmosphere. You have driver quite a distance with that and you have not seen anything like seeping oil here and there, so it is ok.
Hi. I'm in a process of choosing an oil catch can but I want one with the oil level tube to easily check the level of oil in the tank and I was looking for 750ml tank BUT I have a question could you please give me advice regarding the inlet/outlet size because you said yours is 25mm and I seem to have a problem finding one that size. The biggest I found was 19mm. My engine is the same as yours in citroen c4 picasso 1.6 hdi which looks the same as yours. Taking into account the size of the spout of the ford crank case breather. Any advice will be very much appreciated. Thanks a million in advance and kind regards. Please it's urgent as I'm in a process of replacing the turbo.
Hi Gab, this is a very interesting question. Mine is 25mm inlet/outlet, but I think it would not matter that much if the size is smaller. 19mm should be OK. I think that even the smaller ones will also work OK. Considering that the big american trucks use the cheap oil catch cans that the inlet/outlet are ~12mm and I have not seen anyone complaining about leaking oil from the gaskets. Get something with some sort of baffling system. Good luck with the turbo replacement.
@@moremolecules Thank you so so much for answering me so quick as I'm stuck here waiting for your answer which took less than the time to finish my cup of coffee🥰 you are just awesome THANKS A MILLION AND HOPE YOU ARE HAVING LOVELY WEEKEND AND I WISH YOU THE VERY VERY BEST...ONCE again Thank you very very much👏👏👏👏👍👍👍👍👍🥰🥰🥰🥳🥳🥳❤❤❤
@@LondonCarnaval No worries at all. I try to answer as soon as possible whenever I can. Fit the oil catch can you buy and then monitor the pressure coming out of the oil filler cap. Say the engine is in operating temperature and open the oil filler cap, see if it blows it off. It would mean the pressure is excessive and the inlet/outlet are too small or the oil catch can is too restrictive. I think it should not be a problem.
@@moremolecules Thanks a million for your very much appreciated advice. Will let you know of the outcome. Kindest regards. Gabriel.
Have you tried or reviewed the provent 100 , fake model also available. My car has limited engine bay space so the 200 would not fit .
Hi Steve, I have not had the chance to get one of the Provent 100. Nevertheless, here is berrima diesel's pretty good explanation of the difference between the 200, 150 and 100 (ua-cam.com/video/2RWnJjV241A/v-deo.html). As far as I am aware the difference is only in the size of the filter and of course the inlet/outlet ports. They are just designed for different kW of engine power. Cannot remember on top of my head what was the maximum for the 100, but it should be sufficient, unless you have some monster of an engine. It is basically the same catch can as the 200, only smaller filter and inlet/outlet ports, that's it. Not too sure how the pressure regulating valve is designed in the 100, but if you have a turbo diesel, e.g. HDi/TDCi, I would suggest to remove this valve, but keeping it closed, it serves no purpose if you would not return the oil in the engine. Hope this helps.
Can the original filter element fit the copy catch can?🤔
Hi Marc, I explained in detail, somewhere in the comments, that I believe this one is an identical copy of the original one. I believe, not 100% certain, that the original filter will fit. I might as well order an original filter and test this.
Can u do a pressure test
Yes, I have done one here: ua-cam.com/video/fiAs52P7Qwg/v-deo.html
Do you recommend provent to other car manufacturer? Tnx
Hi Michael, yeah, I do not know. I am using this one as the inlet/outlet are decent size (19mm). It really depends on the efficiency and I have not seen much research into that. There was one study and it did show the provent 200 as more efficient than others, so yes, I would recommend it, but how much better is than the other manufacturers it is anyone guess.
This isn't a review if you haven't used it, it's an unboxing.
You cant review this unless you've directly compared it to without using it for the same miles and performing a clean of the entire system between each.
Hi is it posible if I could just seal the lower valve system? Since its detachable at probably can cause oil leak instead of collecting the oil on drain?
Hi Jacob, that is what I tried as I thought it is more of a restriction than use. I have not yet found the best thing to achieve that, but I managed to find a drain cap and it was a perfect fit (ua-cam.com/video/QdxyAHP1DVM/v-deo.html). I think the best thing would be to pour gasket sealant and dip the whole valve into that. This will create a perfect seal and it will be oil resistant.
Bottom line you think that the Chinese copy is as good as the original? Excluding the stainless steel filter
Almost yes. After a year or so of using it, the plastic is not as good as the original one, but if you substitute the stanless steel filter with the original it is a very cheap mann hummel. Somthing like this here: ua-cam.com/video/5yg6qw_Iy6o/v-deo.html
@@moremolecules
Well thank you! Instead of having a hard time with that silicone hose you can find a thicker o-ring
@@gheorghinacov6008 Yes, probably, but I have to buy it from somewhere and I had that silicone hose on hand and seemed to fit pretty good. Seemed cheaper than getting a proper o-ring.
У Меня нет в фильтре второго нижнего клапана..
Misleading, you need to compare side by side with an Original Provent 200 from Mann & Hummel, the fake is complete rubbish !
Hi Jon, while I agree it is a bit misleading and a side-by-side comparison is indeed needed, I am yet to see anywhere efficiency comparison. It could well be rubbish and very low efficiency, but it is only hearsay without any hard data/tests.
I wouldn't put that in my car! Not with that mesh filter, it will still allow oil past it! Just buy a genuine one not worth buying the cheap ones
Thank you for your comment, but how do you know? There was a scientific paper (can find it if you want) that tested oil catch can designs with different sizes of the filters. An important finding was that the time of contact of the gasses with the walls of the catch can substantially mattered. In other words the more contact with walls the more time and chance for the oil droplets to coalesce. The design of both cheap and genuine are nearly identical, i.e. the time gasses are in contact with walls (inlet has tangential contact not 90 degrees) is the same. I have already investigated the return pipe and is free of oil, i.e. the cheap one works IMHO. In addition, a steel mesh filter is less likely to lead to an increased crankcase pressure. The more the original captures and gets blocked the more increase in crankcase pressure one gets. I have not seen any tests on this, especially with time. The fail safe valve on the original is designed to open at 50mbar and that is way too high. You would get oil leakage well before this valve opens.
@@moremolecules it's not the design of the catch can it is the quality of the filter and the layers of the filter I bet that filter only has mesh if you look up the provent 200 you'll see the genuine filter it looks nothing like yours and yours doesn't have the layers
@@darknstormyimages I certainly agree that the filter is not the same. The important question is does it work. No easy way to answer that. You are basically taking the word of Mann-Hummel for granted, i.e. theirs works better. Looking at the state of my outlet pipe suggests that it works. I would take that, unless someone convinces me otherwise. I will monitor this in the long term and see how it behaves. If I start to see that it does not filter, I can buy the original and compare. Knowing how much better the original is as compared to the cheap has not been covered anywhere. 5-10% better does not account for the 4-5x difference in price.
The cheap one has layers, it is just basically steel scourer between two layers of metal mesh. This is nearly the same with people stuffing steel scourer things inside the 90 degree oil catch cans.
@@darknstormyimages fun fact; The Man-Hummel (ProVent) filters fit perfectly in the cheap can. That said, I prefer the stainless mesh as it can be cleaned and reused.
This is the information I've been searching for, thanks for sharing. Now to test the efficiency of each, cheap mesh vs genuine provent in the copy can.
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That is from CCP country
Not too sure what you mean by "CCP country", but it is produced in China, as far as I am aware.
more molecules china communist party 👎
Света побольше бы дал а то в темноте ничего не видно
Too much talking
What did you expect?