Thanks for the detailed explanation!, I was also convinced the installation manual was wrong. Have you seen the new Provent2-200, that one they do have the in-out the other way round..
Well, it is stainless steel, it cannot rust. On the other part of the question, I am not entirely confident that adds too much efficiency to the oil catch can, but still better than nothing. It does not restrict too much, but still adds a little bit of efficiency.
@@moremolecules I keep a wad in mine also. It acts as a "pre-coalescent" filter kind of like the inner plastic mesh of the Provent's filter. It does make it more efficient.
Bro , that is the best oil catch can video ever , one question though, which one you think is more efficient and would recommend for a petrol 6 cylinder car ? Proven 200 or the universal one?
I just purchased the RYCO RCC3351k universal catch can which has the inlet at the bottom of the can indicated by an arrow Does he have the same brand of catch can as you
Good video...thanks. I have questions... TOP hole is inlet for "Blow by gas from crankcase" BOTTOM hole is outlet for "Gas without oil" END hole is for oil Right ????
@@moremolecules Thank reply... sorry but. One more question.... About the oil....(from END hole of catch can) No problems to go into the oil pan directly??
@@badmintonlesson Yes, but I wouldn't. Once you see what the Provent filters out (water, and brown mayonnaise looking gunk), you're not going to want that back in your motor recirculating, and building up. It will reduce the lubricating properties of your oil.
The Provent yes, but for the >200bhp you may need the slightly bigger version as it depends on the flow. They have useful pdf manuel that gives the size of the engine and which Provent to match it with.
@@moremolecules Thank you! I will review the information!!! 😃 I hope you can upload an update on the use of the copy Provent. Check for leaks or something. 😃
@@moremolecules yes, but I took the Provent 150 because it is the smaller one - the 200 is to large for the engine compartment of the Volkswagen T6 - 150 PS TDI)
Salve, sono Gregorio e volevo chiederti se ti è capitato di vedere il filtro gasolio UFI 55.170.00 montato su C Max 1.6 Tdci: lavora al contrario (il gasolio entra nella parte interna dell'elemento filtrante ed esce dalla parte esterna. Difatti ogniqualvolta che si svuota il filtro con l'apposita rotella posta sul filtro stesso, il gadolio che esce è sempre pulito
Ciao Gregorio, I have not seen this filter before, but it looks made pretty well. It is probably specific to the 1.6TDCi, as the inlet and outlet ports are slightly positioned differently than the 1.6HDi.
I have modified my Provent to be a completely sealed unit. Both the side valve and top valve have be sealed. It acts more like a conventional sealed catch can. My hose from the valve cover goes to the bottom inlet and the top is the exit to the turbo. I have attached a clear plastic bottle to the bottom of the Provent and it collects a tremendous amount of oil/water before they ever get to the actual filter. The top line going back to the turbo is always oil-free. Your comments, please.
To swap them, so the inlet is at the bottom and outlet and the top, I have commented in the video on this. Not too sure about the completely sealed part that you have described, could not quite understand how it is a completely sealed unit. The bottom has a few steps or the flow has a few barriers. Water/oil will gather there and will restrict the flow a bit and a bit more crankcase pressure as a result.
@@MrNCHSTENNIS Good question. I doubt there will be a change in the pressure as the restriction (if any) will be there whether from bottom or top. Now, the efficiency is different matter, I might be able to test that sometime soon.
Appreciate your talk of the Mann-Hummel Provent, as it's the BEST performing unit based of actual testing (SAE paper). Have you done a video of with and without your added steel wool addition (like 3-5k miles with and without) to see if it really benefited?
I was thinking of doing that, but it is a false test. Most people will do amount of liquid collected and that depends on a huge number of factors. Say, the weather is a bit rainy, then the catch can will most likely collect a lot more water. One needs to separate the water and oil and compare only the oil amount, but that is difficult to do. In order for such a test to be valid it needs to be under the same conditions. So, I have not done it as I know it is not valid and I could not present the video knowing it is not right.
@@moremolecules , BTW..found an SAE paper that already did a test between knockoff with mesh and real provent with paper filter. Let me know how to get to you.
@@moremolecules , did you get the link on the other video post? If not, you can web search ; Comparative Performance of 12 Crankcase Oil Mist Separators 03-12-01-0001
Question, sir, I have a mustang 4.0 v6 with a supercharger. Currently the setup doesn't have a pcv hose connected from the valve cover to the intake. The intake has been fabricated to house the super charger and thus no port. So the builder left it off the engine. The pcv valve is there, but again, Nothing connected up. The lcv is on the passenger side bank. The drivers side bank has a ccv and again nothing connected- no hose. What are your thoughts as to what I should do here for ventilation? I was thinking breather valve on the oil cap and catch can for the pcv and ccv. Your thoughts? Please and Thank you.
Yeah, diffiult to recommend anything. I would do it as turbochargers do it, connect the PCV to the intake manifold, kind of pre-supercharger. You will get the benefit of negative pressure in the engine from the turbocharger, i.e. pulling a bit of oil out of the crankcase. You can extend those with hoses.
molecules ok, I'm going to do a metered test on the crankcase pressure. I believe I can get away with a oil cap breather and remove the pcv and add a ccv and then run "in" hoses to both in ports and run an "out" hose down to the frame. I know that is an emission no no, but I live in an area that isn't an issue. At least until i can figure this out. The issue with putting the pcv hose on the intake, is because there isn't a port for it with the fabrication of the intake to house the supercharger. At least I can't locate it. Usually these are very noticeable either on the front of the intake or in the rear of it. I'm bot seeing anything. Also need to mention the supercharger is off of an 04 ford lightning. But I'm nor seeing how it is attached on that motor. This is tough because it is a strange install. I'll add the car runs fantastic as it sits, but I'm really worried about the pressure Thanks
@@alfenner3309 That's a tough one. Measure the crankcase pressure and see if it is excessive. If it is not, you do not need to evacuate it. Rather difficult to know what is normal and what is not with crankcase pressure. If you have access to another without the supercharger you can compare. I suspect that if you setup your oil cap breather to something sensible you should be able to achieve crankcase pressure relief. On mine, but it is engine specific, it is ~30mbar. The Mann-Hummel pressure relief valve is 50mbar.
@@moremolecules That makes sence. I do have a buddy that is NA . I'll test his pressure in his car and verify any diferance in each car. Thank you sir.
in other words, the PCV side is connected to the inlet, and the plenum/manifold is connected to the outlet of the CATCH-CAN. I agree that it is better to mark it with IN and OUT. Thank you
Do not know much about the 150, but also really difficult to say about the 200. I have not made an efficiency comparison between the fake and the geniuine one, so difficult to comment how much worse it is. It certainly filters oil, so it works, but how well is difficult to say. It could be that it is say 50% worse than the original, but it could also be almost the same. Probably safer to say that it is better than no oil catch can.
Difficult to say which one is better as I have not seen any efficiency tests of these. To be on the safe side and not increase crankcase pressure I would go with the Provent 200, but that does not mean it will filter oil better.
I'm not too sure of the 100 or 150 are a bad choice. Obviously space is a bit of a problem for the 200, but I always thought the 150 or even 100 are probably as good. The 200 is built for much larger engines than mine, so who knows, it might be that the smaller ones are better filtering for smaller engines.
Depends on what kind of noise and where it is coming from. I would suggest to investigate exactly where the noise is coming from as it could be multiple sources.
@@VisualStudioChannel Have a look here, as it may help: ua-cam.com/video/0s39tfitoso/v-deo.html Otherwise, connect a ODBII scaner and see if there are ny errors.
As MM says, you need to be a bit more specific with your noise problem. Common harmless noises are low rumbling from a loose airbox at the back of the engine, MM has a video on this. or the 2 big in/out airpipes banging against each other - just tape or tie them together. If it's more of a metalic sound near the turbo it's probably the upper heatshield breaking off its mountings. If you have a ticking sound it could be a loose injector (especially if it's when idling after the engine is warm). Take the engine cover off and look for little puffs of smoke in time to the tick. There are many videos on UA-cam on how to change the injector seals. You'll need a 7mm hex/Allen key and tightening them up a bit can help limit the noise but the seals will need replacing as soon as possible.
well the explanation is little Physics,The demister coil acts as condenser and retention extender so more vapor will condense. Flow of air is parallel to the flow of condensed gas or oil so entering from top tube both gas vapor and condensed gas flows parallel towards the bottom.If the flow is starting from lower nozzle,when the demister coil is oil laden or saturated,the oil will flow by gravity towards the bottom of can.If the entry of gas starts from bottom then gas flow will meet the flow of condensed vapor or oil so re-heating of condensed oil by in-coming vapor takes place.
That Mishimoto and every other overpriced metal can like it are TERRIBLE with too many design flaws. The provent is basic proven technology, and the best oil/air separator I've ever seen.
I do not think so, the Mann-Hummel have a particular circular motion of the in air before going down and it is done on purpose to maximise the amount of the gasses get in contact with surfaces.
Inlet Top - Outlet Bottom 👍🇨🇦 Best Catch 💯👍
Thanks for the detailed explanation!, I was also convinced the installation manual was wrong. Have you seen the new Provent2-200, that one they do have the in-out the other way round..
Hi Nick, no, I was not aware that there was a new provent2. Do you have a link by any chance. Many thanks indeed.
How do you know if the stainless steel middle insert is making the oil catch better as water vapors may rust it? Thanks
Well, it is stainless steel, it cannot rust. On the other part of the question, I am not entirely confident that adds too much efficiency to the oil catch can, but still better than nothing. It does not restrict too much, but still adds a little bit of efficiency.
@@moremolecules I keep a wad in mine also. It acts as a "pre-coalescent" filter kind of like the inner plastic mesh of the Provent's filter. It does make it more efficient.
Bro , that is the best oil catch can video ever , one question though, which one you think is more efficient and would recommend for a petrol 6 cylinder car ? Proven 200 or the universal one?
Difficult to tell which one is more efficient, but probably the Provent 200 will be more efficient.
I just purchased the RYCO RCC3351k universal catch can which has the inlet at the bottom of the can indicated by an arrow
Does he have the same brand of catch can as you
Good video...thanks.
I have questions...
TOP hole is inlet for "Blow by gas from crankcase"
BOTTOM hole is outlet for "Gas without oil"
END hole is for oil
Right ????
Yes, that is correct, the bottom hole is rather small at the very bottom of the oil catch can and if one wants can b plugged back in the crankcase.
@@moremolecules
Thank reply...
sorry but. One more question....
About the oil....(from END hole of catch can)
No problems to go into the oil pan directly??
@@badmintonlesson I would not myself put it back in the sump, but that how it was designed by Mann-Hummel.
@@badmintonlesson Yes, but I wouldn't. Once you see what the Provent filters out (water, and brown mayonnaise looking gunk), you're not going to want that back in your motor recirculating, and building up. It will reduce the lubricating properties of your oil.
hello! excellent video! can the provent system be used on a turbocharged gasoline engine? more than 200 hp.
The Provent yes, but for the >200bhp you may need the slightly bigger version as it depends on the flow. They have useful pdf manuel that gives the size of the engine and which Provent to match it with.
@@moremolecules Thank you! I will review the information!!! 😃 I hope you can upload an update on the use of the copy Provent. Check for leaks or something. 😃
@@Mark_182 I will try eventually to do something with the copy. I have a test of efficiency in mind, but too much other work at the moment.
@@moremolecules it would be great! I hope you can do it soon! I will be pending.
Hi, I have the Provent 150 (VW T6) and there the outlet is on top and inlet at the bottom. Works very well since one year.
Hi Knud, yes, in Mann Hummel's pdf manual the PoVent 150 the inlet is at the bottom, but it is a bit different than the 200.
@@moremolecules yes, but I took the Provent 150 because it is the smaller one - the 200 is to large for the engine compartment of the Volkswagen T6 - 150 PS TDI)
@@knuddreeen2276 Absolutely yes, I also thought about the 150, nothing wrong with it.
Salve, sono Gregorio e volevo chiederti se ti è capitato di vedere il filtro gasolio UFI 55.170.00 montato su C Max 1.6 Tdci: lavora al contrario (il gasolio entra nella parte interna dell'elemento filtrante ed esce dalla parte esterna. Difatti ogniqualvolta che si svuota il filtro con l'apposita rotella posta sul filtro stesso, il gadolio che esce è sempre pulito
Ciao Gregorio, I have not seen this filter before, but it looks made pretty well. It is probably specific to the 1.6TDCi, as the inlet and outlet ports are slightly positioned differently than the 1.6HDi.
I have modified my Provent to be a completely sealed unit. Both the side valve and top valve have be sealed. It acts more like a conventional sealed catch can. My hose from the valve cover goes to the bottom inlet and the top is the exit to the turbo. I have attached a clear plastic bottle to the bottom of the Provent and it collects a tremendous amount of oil/water before they ever get to the actual filter. The top line going back to the turbo is always oil-free. Your comments, please.
To swap them, so the inlet is at the bottom and outlet and the top, I have commented in the video on this. Not too sure about the completely sealed part that you have described, could not quite understand how it is a completely sealed unit. The bottom has a few steps or the flow has a few barriers. Water/oil will gather there and will restrict the flow a bit and a bit more crankcase pressure as a result.
@@moremolecules can you switch the in and out for both 1k miles,then campare them,or measure the crankcase preasure？thks
@@MrNCHSTENNIS Good question. I doubt there will be a change in the pressure as the restriction (if any) will be there whether from bottom or top. Now, the efficiency is different matter, I might be able to test that sometime soon.
Appreciate your talk of the Mann-Hummel Provent, as it's the BEST performing unit based of actual testing (SAE paper). Have you done a video of with and without your added steel wool addition (like 3-5k miles with and without) to see if it really benefited?
I was thinking of doing that, but it is a false test. Most people will do amount of liquid collected and that depends on a huge number of factors. Say, the weather is a bit rainy, then the catch can will most likely collect a lot more water. One needs to separate the water and oil and compare only the oil amount, but that is difficult to do. In order for such a test to be valid it needs to be under the same conditions. So, I have not done it as I know it is not valid and I could not present the video knowing it is not right.
@@moremolecules , BTW..found an SAE paper that already did a test between knockoff with mesh and real provent with paper filter.
Let me know how to get to you.
@@douglasmontgomery6315 That would be an interesting read, would you be able to send a link to the paper.
@@moremolecules , I can try…but UA-cam deletes links sometimes. Give me 15 minutes and I’ll try
@@moremolecules , did you get the link on the other video post?
If not, you can web search ; Comparative Performance of 12 Crankcase Oil Mist Separators 03-12-01-0001
Question, sir,
I have a mustang 4.0 v6 with a supercharger. Currently the setup doesn't have a pcv hose connected from the valve cover to the intake. The intake has been fabricated to house the super charger and thus no port. So the builder left it off the engine. The pcv valve is there, but again, Nothing connected up. The lcv is on the passenger side bank. The drivers side bank has a ccv and again nothing connected- no hose.
What are your thoughts as to what I should do here for ventilation? I was thinking breather valve on the oil cap and catch can for the pcv and ccv. Your thoughts?
Please and Thank you.
Yeah, diffiult to recommend anything. I would do it as turbochargers do it, connect the PCV to the intake manifold, kind of pre-supercharger. You will get the benefit of negative pressure in the engine from the turbocharger, i.e. pulling a bit of oil out of the crankcase. You can extend those with hoses.
molecules ok, I'm going to do a metered test on the crankcase pressure. I believe I can get away with a oil cap breather and remove the pcv and add a ccv and then run "in" hoses to both in ports and run an "out" hose down to the frame.
I know that is an emission no no, but I live in an area that isn't an issue. At least until i can figure this out. The issue with putting the pcv hose on the intake, is because there isn't a port for it with the fabrication of the intake to house the supercharger. At least I can't locate it. Usually these are very noticeable either on the front of the intake or in the rear of it. I'm bot seeing anything.
Also need to mention the supercharger is off of an 04 ford lightning. But I'm nor seeing how it is attached on that motor.
This is tough because it is a strange install.
I'll add the car runs fantastic as it sits, but I'm really worried about the pressure
Thanks
@@alfenner3309 That's a tough one. Measure the crankcase pressure and see if it is excessive. If it is not, you do not need to evacuate it. Rather difficult to know what is normal and what is not with crankcase pressure. If you have access to another without the supercharger you can compare. I suspect that if you setup your oil cap breather to something sensible you should be able to achieve crankcase pressure relief. On mine, but it is engine specific, it is ~30mbar. The Mann-Hummel pressure relief valve is 50mbar.
@@moremolecules That makes sence. I do have a buddy that is NA . I'll test his pressure in his car and verify any diferance in each car.
Thank you sir.
@@alfenner3309 That makes sense to get a reference from a NA one.
in other words, the PCV side is connected to the inlet, and the plenum/manifold is connected to the outlet of the CATCH-CAN. I agree that it is better to mark it with IN and OUT. Thank you
Yes, absolutely correct 🙂
I'm trying to find a genuine Provent 150 in EU but cannot find it anywhere. How is the genuine one compared to the copy ?
Do not know much about the 150, but also really difficult to say about the 200. I have not made an efficiency comparison between the fake and the geniuine one, so difficult to comment how much worse it is. It certainly filters oil, so it works, but how well is difficult to say. It could be that it is say 50% worse than the original, but it could also be almost the same. Probably safer to say that it is better than no oil catch can.
@@moremolecules thank you for the reply !
What is the diameter of the turbo inlet , because i want to put blue silicone pipes instead of the original aspiration tube , cuz the original broke
Apologies for the later reply. The outside diameter of the turbo inlet is 45mm or 4.5cm. Hope this helps.
There's a huge arrow pointing in, at the inlet. Weird.
Well, yes😁
how many mm is the inlet and outlet diameter of your provent?
As far as I remember the Provent 200 is 19mm in/out
Здравствуйте подскажите какая мадель маслоуловителя лучше
Difficult to say which one is better as I have not seen any efficiency tests of these. To be on the safe side and not increase crankcase pressure I would go with the Provent 200, but that does not mean it will filter oil better.
Nice Video as always
I envy you, my Provent 200 will not fit into my car. I'm thinking of taking 100 or 150.
I'm not too sure of the 100 or 150 are a bad choice. Obviously space is a bit of a problem for the 200, but I always thought the 150 or even 100 are probably as good. The 200 is built for much larger engines than mine, so who knows, it might be that the smaller ones are better filtering for smaller engines.
Hello
I have peugeot partner 2008 1.6 hdi , there is an Engine noise , how to reduce that noise??
Depends on what kind of noise and where it is coming from. I would suggest to investigate exactly where the noise is coming from as it could be multiple sources.
@@moremolecules can you learn us how to connect 1.6 hdi to computer program and detect the error ?
@@VisualStudioChannel Have a look here, as it may help: ua-cam.com/video/0s39tfitoso/v-deo.html
Otherwise, connect a ODBII scaner and see if there are ny errors.
@@moremolecules thank you bro 🌹🌹
As MM says, you need to be a bit more specific with your noise problem.
Common harmless noises are low rumbling from a loose airbox at the back of the engine, MM has a video on this. or the 2 big in/out airpipes banging against each other - just tape or tie them together.
If it's more of a metalic sound near the turbo it's probably the upper heatshield breaking off its mountings.
If you have a ticking sound it could be a loose injector (especially if it's when idling after the engine is warm). Take the engine cover off and look for little puffs of smoke in time to the tick. There are many videos on UA-cam on how to change the injector seals. You'll need a 7mm hex/Allen key and tightening them up a bit can help limit the noise but the seals will need replacing as soon as possible.
🖐️🇹🇷🇹🇷👍👍👍
well the explanation is little Physics,The demister coil acts as condenser and retention extender so more vapor will condense. Flow of air is parallel to the flow of condensed gas or oil so entering from top tube both gas vapor and condensed gas flows parallel towards the bottom.If the flow is starting from lower nozzle,when the demister coil is oil laden or saturated,the oil will flow by gravity towards the bottom of can.If the entry of gas starts from bottom then gas flow will meet the flow of condensed vapor or oil so re-heating of condensed oil by in-coming vapor takes place.
That Mishimoto and every other overpriced metal can like it are TERRIBLE with too many design flaws. The provent is basic proven technology, and the best oil/air separator I've ever seen.
I believe man and Hummel messed up there insulation instructions because it's supposed to be the other way around
I do not think so, the Mann-Hummel have a particular circular motion of the in air before going down and it is done on purpose to maximise the amount of the gasses get in contact with surfaces.