Thanks Alex, Probably what I needed to do - I had mine replaced with a ball valve after the 1 year old one leaked, right on the distributor of course, and I blew the head gasket It was obviously a cheap junk replacement
Very nice video detailed and informative, the main problem is the diaphragm sticks to the housing and tears very easily unless you operate the heater on and off occasionally
Thanks for the video Alex I think I might service my heater control valve tomorrow as I have just drained the cooling system down on my 1975 MGB Roadster - car has been stood, unused in my garage since 1995 so I am slowly renovating it
Completed this task/modification yesterday and found that undoing the lower bolt securing the heater control valve to the block the hardest and most time consuming part as it was so awkward to get at. Found using a combination spanner was best but like a 1/12 of a turn at a time lol. My unit, although it has been stood for nearly 3 decades was in very good condition. It had no sealant applied to the rubber diaphragm and had the tiniest clip on the bottom stem that i had seen, like an 'r' clip but shaped like a '8'. Cleaned and rebuilt it and added a stainless steel washer that enabled the valve to fully open, didn't use any sealant on it either, time will tell if that was a mistake or not 😂 Thanks once again for sharing the video 👍
Well done. I've read about this procedure for years. It was really good to see you walk through it. At the beginning, that valve looked pretty crusty. I probably would have just replaced it. But after seeing how good it cleaned up and that the rubber diaphragm was still pliable, I think you did a great job putting it back into service.
Excellent video. Compliments to Bob as well. I have about a dozen used, presumably inoperative, heater valves. Time to get busy and dissect them to see if they can be resuscitated.
Awesome video again, I cleaned my up last month and I never realised it had a C clip missing, I going to take mine apart again and do the modification in your video. Keep up the top content 👌
@@wallisparnell4464 I love that stuff. I actually have a '79 VW beetle (fuel injected) that has the throttle wall rebuilt with JB Weld. The aluminum was damaged by exhaust gas at the EGR inlet. caused a vacuum leak. the patch has been running for something like 20 years.
Yes, there is a weird little wire clip on the end, I got 3 bad ones valves, to play with. Followed the direction, to rebuild, but, but since the leak is seemingly around the gasket, I added a “35 mm O-ring”, to the waterside of the gasket in that really wide inset on the aluminum casting, with generous amount of sealant. The O-ring will definitely help. Your thoughts? Wonder if you tried an Oring? Thanks
Got 3 old used ones, 2 had good diaphragms, added washers, no caulking on any of them, but did when resealing. Bet yours had been opened before. One had circa clip, other 2 had strange little wire clips.
Thanks Alex, Probably what I needed to do - I had mine replaced with a ball valve after the 1 year old one leaked, right on the distributor of course, and I blew the head gasket
It was obviously a cheap junk replacement
Very nice video detailed and informative, the main problem is the diaphragm sticks to the housing and tears very easily unless you operate the heater on and off occasionally
Thanks for the video Alex I think I might service my heater control valve tomorrow as I have just drained the cooling system down on my 1975 MGB Roadster - car has been stood, unused in my garage since 1995 so I am slowly renovating it
Completed this task/modification yesterday and found that undoing the lower bolt securing the heater control valve to the block the hardest and most time consuming part as it was so awkward to get at. Found using a combination spanner was best but like a 1/12 of a turn at a time lol. My unit, although it has been stood for nearly 3 decades was in very good condition. It had no sealant applied to the rubber diaphragm and had the tiniest clip on the bottom stem that i had seen, like an 'r' clip but shaped like a '8'. Cleaned and rebuilt it and added a stainless steel washer that enabled the valve to fully open, didn't use any sealant on it either, time will tell if that was a mistake or not 😂 Thanks once again for sharing the video 👍
Nicely done!
Well done. I've read about this procedure for years. It was really good to see you walk through it. At the beginning, that valve looked pretty crusty. I probably would have just replaced it. But after seeing how good it cleaned up and that the rubber diaphragm was still pliable, I think you did a great job putting it back into service.
Excellent video.
Compliments to Bob as well.
I have about a dozen used, presumably inoperative, heater valves.
Time to get busy and dissect them to see if they can be resuscitated.
I added a 35 mm oring to the waterside of the gasket to prevent a leak, w the silicone sealant.
Great video
Awesome video again, I cleaned my up last month and I never realised it had a C clip missing, I going to take mine apart again and do the modification in your video. Keep up the top content 👌
I think that C clip corrodes over time. It is the only ferrous item on that side of the valve. That was one reason I put some silicon sealer over mine
I JBWelded
clip onto shaft so won’t fall off.
@@wallisparnell4464 I love that stuff. I actually have a '79 VW beetle (fuel injected) that has the throttle wall rebuilt with JB Weld. The aluminum was damaged by exhaust gas at the EGR inlet. caused a vacuum leak. the patch has been running for something like 20 years.
Yes, there is a weird little wire clip on the end, I got 3 bad ones valves, to play with. Followed the direction, to rebuild, but, but since the leak is seemingly around the gasket, I added a “35 mm O-ring”, to the waterside of the gasket in that really wide inset on the aluminum casting, with generous amount of sealant. The O-ring will definitely help. Your thoughts? Wonder if you tried an Oring? Thanks
I have yet to install my solution. I just found that so many had issues, so I decided to dig deeper into the problem. thanks for your input.
Got 3 old used ones, 2 had good diaphragms, added washers, no caulking on any of them, but did when resealing. Bet yours had been opened before. One had circa clip, other 2 had strange little wire clips.