3 Paddling Mistakes Surfers Make That I Hate...
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- Опубліковано 21 вер 2022
- Paddling a surfboard is something many surfers overlook, but it should be something we get right before moving on. Here are some of the more common paddling mistakes and how to fix them!
Brian James
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Location: New Jersey, Longboard Surfing
Board: Clean Ocean Surfboards: 9'6" Chingona
Started surfing 4 years ago but quickly determined paddling and being able to judge/time waves is absolutely foundational. Master that first and you can then catch a hell of a lot more waves to practice carving, cutbacks, walking, nose riding, headstands, and whatever else tickles your fancy .. don't master it and all that other stuff doesn't matter, because you'll spend more time wearing yourself out missing the waves you should be riding.
Yes well said! Exactly what I was trying to get across
Nailed it!
I’ve been surfing for 7 years but these are great reminders. I am loving your channel
Never hurts to hear the basics again. Glad you're enjoying the vids!
Great video! I love the comedy with the falling off the longboard at the start. And great paddling tips! :)
haha thanks! I fell 3 or 4 times and legitimately had bruises the next day lol
I am new to surfing. Man love your channel, great scene and great talk, looking forward to more practical info from you!
Thanks so much! Glad it's helping out!
Love your videos. Keep them coming. 🤙🏼🤙🏼from NZ
Awesome, will do!
Well done amigo!!! Great points for everyone. Agree with the other comment about Rob Case. I’ve done both of his classes. He’s amazing.
Awesome thanks! Yea i'll definitely have to check those out!
Don’t forget the panic paddle when they start swinging both arms at the same time. Avoid dragging your hand for each stroke. Cup or keep your fingers together, your hands are ores. Drop your shoulders and keep your chest out when paddling to increase shoulder mobility and paddle power!!!
Ah the panic paddle haha! We've all been guilty. Great tips!
I see see many novice surfers using the butterfly paddle. It just doesn't work as well as one hand at a time
Actually my surf coach told me to paddle with both arms for speed . I don't like it and reading that will now ignore this advice.
My problem is my lower sternum burts a lot while paddling. Maybe I am not extended enough in my lower spine. It hurts so much I stopped surfing for now .
Mate your channel is now officially epic. Good skills
Thanks so much Andy!
This is a good start. Rob Case of surfpaddling is the guru if you want to learn how to paddle efficiently and injury free IMO.
Oh nice! Ill check him out
This is so helpful dude! Thank you!
You got it!
That was a long overdue video! Paddling is everything. New surfers do everything in reverse. -- Focus on the paddle! (And the spin around) that'll allow you to catch waves. Catching waves allows you to learn everything else! Good VIDEO!
yes exactly! Yea i'll have to address the spin around in another video... that's huge as well
@@LongboardSessions ...so huge! People often ask me how I catch so many waves, And, while paddle technique and positioning are critical, "The Spin Around" has a multiplier effect on the other two. I would say by x2. These days every session I'm getting at least two 'no-paddle' takeoffs. The quick spin is what allows this.
Awesome video! And great editing btw
Thanks Thiago!
Find a reference point, for me it's the top of the brand logo, on my 9'6" Fireball.
Then it's a small variation depending on the water. slightly back for chop etc..
BTW I have what I call the 4/20 rule.
If there's 4 people out there's 4 people getting waves.
If there's 24 people out, there's 4 people getting waves.
🙂
Yea logos make great reference points. You could also use stickers!
Brilliant. I really struggle with the paddle in softer waves in trying to get more increase in my wave count. 🤙
Thanks!! Hope this helps
New longboarder here this was so helpful thank u so much
You got it!
It's actually good to keep your chin down while paddling into a wave especially on a longboard. Arching back moves weight to back and can cause you to stall. Chin down creates drive and momentum especially right before pop up. Watch really good long boarders. A surf coach that happens to surf my break recommended this and I catch so many more waves now. I have 30+ years of surfing under my belt. Always learn something new.
Nice video I hope your well , I counted soooooo many people up at the wave pool too far back on their boards when paddling out
Yes! So common.
I often paddle up and ask if I can make a suggestion. ...it goes like this; "if you wanna catch a lot more waves, move up 1 inch on your board" that usually leads to a possitive conversation.
Lets me start out by saying that everything you say makes sense to me. But 40 to 60 waves in a session? I thought I was doing great a 10 to 20 was good even surfing for 50+ years. At 62 with paddle gloves, I can Kee paddle into a wave faster than most standups I can not reach those numbers. Most of the time I am happy with 2-3 good waves per session.
Well, understand that I'm getting that many waves at a nearly empty beach break. Your situation might be different given you're in hawaii.
@@LongboardSessions Very true, having to share waves does make a big difference. You are probably right I remember surfing Mexico in the 1970s with just friends and getting 2-3 sessions before collapsing at the campfire. Cherish your break it probably won't last forever. Which was why we would not tell anyone about our secret spot.
@@fsoileau Well there are a few spots in jersey that do get crowded. BUT there are waves (when there is swell) every part of the whole coastline. So plenty for everyone
Interesting: I've recently changed my paddling style to that recommended by Nick Carroll ("How to Paddle Stronger and Smarter"). He advocates not wasting energy arching your back and looking ahead. This indeed seems to use less energy, but I've started having neck pain. Your comment at 2:02 made me realize that having my head down may be the cause! Eureka. Thanks.
Oh hopefully that's the problem!
I can't see how arching your back is "wasting" energy. Paddling is easier and less stressful when you're back is arched. However, we are all built differently
...let me add, the arched back allows for weight adjustments when paddling through and into waves. This is the first time I've heard that the back arch wastes energy.
60 waves? Holy Mackerel Kingfish!
haha! Combine the short rides in jersey with a longboard and you are a wave catching machine!
Hey just wondering if you can tell a huge difference between a 9’0” and something longer along a 9’6 or so? I’ve got a 9’0” and am working on noseriding and surf similar east coast waves to you( though warmer) down in Florida. A difference of 6 inches is huge on short board I normally ride but wondered how different it really is on a longboard. Videos are great and thanks again!!
Thanks Scott!
It's quite a big difference on a longboard as well. I went from a 9'2" to a 9'6" and it was shocking. The longer board held a bit better on the noserides, but the swing weight on the turn is a bit heavier. That 4 inch difference has made me have to lengthen each step so I actually get to the nose by my 4th step.. that wasn't a problem on my 9'2".
longer will be better in the 'same' board but rocker and rails play a big part.
Longboards can be quite an investment,. So find shaper with a descent reputation and tell them(honestly) where your up to and what your trying to do.
It will save money in the long run.
And there's something special about the through line from shaper to surfer.
Hey man. This series is so much inspiring. Would you mind sharing your gear? what camera? I know. it's depressing answering this. keep it going. I'd like to learn your style of storytelling and applying to other fields. Music or Parachute. Camera. please 🛒
Awesome thanks so much! Sure.. i'm a gear nerd haha
Vlog/ B-roll camera is a sony a6600 with a rode mic videomicro as the mic. Mainly use a sigma 16mm 1.4, but also have a garbage kit zoom lense. I also use the rode wireless go lapel occasionally. Drone is a mavic pro I believe.. whatever the one is that lets you shoot 4k at 60.
As for story telling.. it's what I try and focus on the most. I try and use my favorite shows and documentaries as guidelines for story telling and shots.
The paddling form is a conditioning issue not a technical one. The new surfer can t sustain arching so much all the time but will build it slowly as they surf more. You probably should have mentioned it. Nice series of vids though, I enjoy them!
Thanks Simon!
Well I think it's a bit of both, but also depends on how you're built. Arching your back comes simple to some people, yet others do have to condition as you said.
All of surfing takes conditioning. I have friends that surf casually, never more than an hour. They have a lot of fun and are worn out at the end of the hour. It's perfect for what they want from surfing. ... Me, well I'm a fanatic and surfed 9 hours (3 sessions) yesterday, because conditions were perfect. Conditioning is recommended for the serious surf athlete.
..."Uh mom, it's that weird guy in the black suit laying on our lawn and videoing himself again".
hahaha!
Do you have to paddle harder on a longboard as opposed to a short?
Nah, you paddle hard on both hehe. You're able to get a much nicer glide on a longboard tho.. so essentially once it's moving along you can slow down your paddling and still maintain speed.
One mistake I've made, and still make sometimes, is giving up on paddling before I've really caught the wave. The wave passes under me and I think "why didn't I take just a couple more strokes?"
Common problem! It's a combination of not enough strokes vs possibly being too far back on the board. That's another common problem
@@LongboardSessions Yes! You do need to be pretty far forward.
Another mistake I've made (and seen others make) is waiting too long to start paddling. The wave comes faster than you think, and once you decide to go for it, it takes some time to lay down on the board, start paddling, and accelerate it up to speed. I think this is especially true if you're on a longboard, like I have.
What are your thoughts on glide position in steeper waves... example, I surf a punchy beach break where the waves aren't necessarily big ( actually pretty small most days ) but they go from flat to a peak rather quickly and then break which doesnt give you a lot of time to get to your feet. Even an inch too far forward and you pearl. sometimes if the waves are steeper and faster I will slide back an Inch or so to compensate for the speed/ steepness of the wave and avoid stuffing the nose.... Ironically this seems to be more of a problem on smaller days as you have less distance between the nose of the board and the bottom of the wave. This may not be the best practice but seems to help ( sometimes ), but if there is a better ( proper) way I am definitely interested.
I get exactly what your saying as we experience that quite a bit here in NJ. Sliding back can help, but you also might not catch the wave when you do that. Sometimes I'll be pretty far up to get paddling speed, than hop back a couple inches before the wave gets too steep.
But here is the key for steep little waves: Angle your takeoff ALOT. Focus hard down the line and angle the board... You have much less chance of digging the nose when your board is angled. Hope this helps!
Sorry for the late response by the way
@@LongboardSessions thanks brother, I will definitely work on angling my take offs 🤙
@@LongboardSessions no problem appreciate the reply.
what I do with my odysea 5.0 .. but if a longboard is already standing and I do the take off near the foam below .. who is right?
Depends on if you were waiting longer, or which section of the wave you were taking off at (peak, shoulder etc). Also, if that person just came back into the lineup from a ride, it should now be your turn. Unfortunately, etiquette isnʻt followed by everyone, and people become greedy when it comes to wave count.
Yea thats a tough situation. What Kronk said is correct tho. At that point it's best to just decide who got the most recent ride and give the wave to the other surfer
@@LongboardSessions I say this because the last session in a point breack every wave was longboards. and I waited a bit further down with the 5.0, until I did take off inside the same.
As always a good video. For us older surfers we need help developing those muscles, which help keep our posture on the board in that "banana shape". As you point out, that posture alone will not only help with paddling, but will help your overall vision of the forming wave, as well as positioning you in the sweet spot on your board to maintain proper trim. It is critical. If you try to use your back muscles only it is going to be difficult. You need to share the load along your spine and engage some additional muscles. This is especially helpful when you get tired. A lesson I learned yesterday while surfing. Anyway, I found this strength coach who gives an excellent example of how to share the load along your spine by pressing your belly button down into the board while pressing in on your knees. See attached for anyone interested: ua-cam.com/video/FNpmxBtweYI/v-deo.html. As always a great video on your part and not to be overlooked.
Thanks Jack! Yes well said. I imagine it's slightly more difficult if you're an older beginner surfer. You have to use muscles and put your body in positions that you havent done much of. If you surfed your whole life than I imagine you keep the paddling form and fitness into your old age. I could be wrong... but I'll see as I get older haha!
Yep, I have seen some pretty old surfers in NZ with great form. Keep on surfing 😊.
Paddling and judging how to get out are easily destroying every one of my surf's.
Yup, it's a skill people look over. It takes practice just like anything else
😂😂😂 great intro
haha thanks! 3 takes… and I was bruised by the end lol
I knee paddle 99% of the time. Any pointers there, should the knees, or feet be together, apart, or does it even matter because they're not hanging off the board anyhow?
Any idea how deep, or far should the arms pull through the water?
Is there more or less power, or speed differences between knee, and prone paddling around, and most importantly catching waves?
I think on a longboard, prone paddling is faster. Atleast thats the way it seems to me. I use knee paddling when I'm spent and want to work some different muscles to make my life easier.
I think knees apart work great. Just gotta find that glide point which is weird when you're on your knees haha! Although i bet you're used to it since it seems you knee paddle most of the time
Depending on the board, I like to knee paddle intermittently throughout my sessions. I find that it allows certain muscles to rest and extends my overall stamina, resulting in longer sessions. I highly recommend this approach!. -- (But yeah, prone is more power and faster).
What size is your board? I’m 5’8 n my board is 6’2
9'6". I'm 5'4" 135 lbs
Hard to catch a lot of waves now I have surfed all my life and believe me the crowd factor is of the planet you can spend a lot of money to travel and when you get to your destination it's more crowded than the location you left
Crowds definitely play a factor! This is where a larger board comes in handy. With the right board and willingness to catch the smaller inside waves you can catch a ton in crowded locations. I did this when I surfed in santa cruz... caught as many waves as I would have here in the way less crowded NJ
I suggest, perfect your paddle and learn to catch nearly EVERY wave you paddle for. This lets the entire lineup know "you have that wave" even before you do. Psychologically surfers will back off knowing you own that wave. It's wierd. But itss real. I surf Malibu, Doheny and many other VERY crowded breaks. It works, and it's all from "the paddle!"
Court Hurley
hahaha
But you get more waves so it's good for you to not tell people about bad positioning
That's not my style
40 to 60 waves a session? Who are you kidding??
Yep! It's quite easy.. atleast in NJ. A longboard also helps. I surfed for 2.5 hours yesterday and caught around 70-80 waves.
@@LongboardSessions
Either they were VERY short rides or you are inflating wave count. I don't buy it.
@@TBlanktim short rides in NJ. Probably average 7-15 seconds a ride
@@LongboardSessions
7 to15 seconds??That's not a ride. It is a drop.
@@TBlanktim you wouldn’t enjoy NJ 🤷♂️