Team Associated B6.2d build series - Building the V2 Shocks

In this video we build one of the front shocks on the B6.2d.
Tools used:
3d print your own shock stand: www.thingivers...
ProTek RC shock tool: PTK-8267
Team associated factory team chrome shafts:
Front: ASC91616
Rear: ASC91620
Music from: www.bensound.com

[@wrenchesandcars5161]

Great video, building a associated t6.2 and honestly not impressed with the directions and the fact that they came with parts missing in the kit. This video helped me out a lot thank you

[@simonrees9117]

Thank you for that! Now my shocks don’t leak 😁

[@DaveDriggs]

Awesome!

[@CoachMarkspeaks]

Thanks for the video - it really helped a lot.

[@DaveDriggs]

Thank you! Very happy you enjoy the content!

[@DaveDriggs]

So I'm new to managing comments sorry guys! I removed someone's comment about every o-ring needing to be greased. Make sure all the rings on the shock body gets some shock oil applied to it.

[@teamcrc1]

Nice video but you are missing a critical part of the shock build. You must measure the shock shaft length after you screw in the eyelets. Otherwise you have two shocks that are different lengths.

[@DaveDriggs]

Thanks for your comment Jeremy! Yep, that's a great point you want to have the car balanced on both sides.

[@isaiahfurrow7414]

I have always left the bottom cap loose, as to not compress the cartridge parts and o-rings, and only tighten that cap AFTER the shaft is in the shock... have never used a tool on the lower cap, and never had one come loose... Also, wondering why you put the spring cup on when you were bleeding the shock...?
Lastly, where did you get the shock stand? Don't believe I have seen that one before...

[@DaveDriggs]

Thanks Isaiah, I'll give that a shot next time the shocks get built (which seems to be very often eh?). Spring cup is actually something I saw Rivkin doing and the idea is the cup will be on the car when it's running and to bleed the shock as it will be on the car. Basically, if you make it zero rebound you can leave the cup off and it will be good to go.
I designed and printed the shock stand. You can check out the file here (along with more photos): www.thingiverse.com/thing:4553862/files

[@johnmorton8785]

X ring won't settle it keeps flipping put a little bit of o ring grease on it any suggestions thanks

[@DaveDriggs]

Sometimes I'll tap it down with something flat like the end of the shock shaft or my 2.5mm driver if that happens.

[@pimpalamac3411]

As far as the eyelets go, manual says two different things. One part says long eyelets front and rear, other section says long eyelets for front shocks and short eyelets for rear shocks. Which is true?

[@DaveDriggs]

I've run the shorter in the rear with good luck. Check that out first and try the longer one if you need a bit more ride height

[@sebo7011]

Is it normal that i always got air in the shocks? If I compress it makes air noise.

[@DaveDriggs]

Yes this is normal. If you had zero air in the emulsion shock you would get hydrolock. For example, when you fill the shock body up with oil and then don't bleed it, the shaft will not move because air can not be displaced inside the shock body. There is a small amount of air that mixes with the oil while the shock is activating (which is what you're hearing). This is a good reason to take a few warm-up laps when you put your car down on the track before a race etc.

[@sebo7011]

@@DaveDriggs thank you very much. It helps a lot 👍

[@paullee6246]

Does the shock come with the fluid or do u have to provide it yourself

[@DaveDriggs]

Kit comes with fluilds needed.

[@jillkruse6596]

@@DaveDriggs does the kit come with the green slime?

[@JoseLuisGonzalezZ]

@@jillkruse6596 no green slime in the kit

[@jasonmcdonald7187]

Is it the same shock as b61

[@DaveDriggs]

The .2 rear shock bodies are shorter than the .1 car because it has a shorter shock tower.

[@shaglioni]

@@DaveDriggs This might be a dumb question, but the same, exact process you did here for the 6.2D version, would apply for the 6.1D version correct?