I put 7,000 on it in the first year. Now just over 2 years still not 10,000. I hope you're enjoying the heck out of it. I have to get 2 recalls done and the yearly service light reset, but then I may get the remapping download.
@scottsspeedtriplechannel you got one of the early ones mine had all the recalls done when I got it in February. 5000 miles since I got it love this thing
I am using a "PitBull" brand reversible rear stand. Please watch my video titled "KUDOS to PitBull". You can see the different stands I use and hear a bit about them Thanks for watching, commenting and subscribing. Enjoy the ride. 😀
I've only ridden in the rain maybe a dozen times with this bike. I haven't had any problems with the Metzeler RRs in the rain or on wet surfaces. I generally slow my speeds and in heavy storms I switch to rain mode. The rear tire has kicked in the antilocks a few times in the rain, but I also have had it kick on a few times in the dry. Probably because I overlapplied the rear brake. I had heard they were not good in the rain, but for the riding that I do they were fine.
Hi Scott, am changing both tires on mine this weekend - need to remove both wheels and take them to the local workshop as I don't have the tooling to swap the tires themselves. A couple of questions for you - have you removed your front wheel at all? Did you need to remove the callipers to do this? I'm looking at a cable that runs into the right hand calliper (looking straight on at the bike) and wondering how to handle it, i.e. does it need to be disconnected in anyway? Many thanks in advance from the UK
I have not removed my front wheel yet, but I think I can help you. You do need to remove the calipers. This makes it much easier to remove and also will ensure that they are correctly realigned when reinstalling the wheel. Just unbolt each caliper and hang them with a bungee cord to keep them from falling down. Try to keep them in a similar position so no air bubbles will occur. You shouldn't need to disconnect any wires or brake lines. Remove the caliper bolts and calipers first. Then once the axle nut and pinch bolts are loosened and the axle is removed the wheel will slide down and out.
After the wheel is out use a screwdriver or similar tool wrapped with tape or cloth between the brake pads on each caliper to pry or press the pads open. Be careful not damage the pads. When you have the wheel reinstalled this will make it easy to slip the calipers back over the disc. Install the wheel, then the calipers, but do not tighten any bolts. Then tighten the axle and pinch bolts. Next just barely snug the caliper bolts and spin the wheel several times and gently slowly apply the brakes. This will help squeeze the caliper and pads back onto the disc's and align the calipers. After doing this a few times, usually feel that the brakes are snug when applied. Then on the last time spinning the wheel apply the brakes smoothly to stop the wheel and hold pressure on the brake while tightening both calipers. This ensures that the calipers and pads are aligned properly. The final torqued does not need to be done during this process, but the axle and calipers should be pretty tight.
@@scottsspeedtriplechannel Huge thanks! Im trying this today when my axel bit arrives so will let you know how it goes. Rear wheel came off a treat, although both the bowl and flat washer fell out together. As I understand it, the bowled washer needs to be installed with the top lip against the flat washer, bottom of the bowl goes against the main 12 point nut..? Again really appreciate your help mate.
@@jacobleppard2039 BTW... I'm pretty sure the bowled washer fits small side to the wheel, large side facing out. That is how I have mine ever since my first time removing the wheel. If you could find a schematic we could both be sure. LOL. Nearly 10,000 miles with mine in that position with no troubles yet. You'd think maybe they could label it though.
Sorry about not getting back to you sooner. I didn't get a notification about your comment. No, my front tire did not wear faster than my rear one. I now have 10,000 miles on the original front tire. It is strange that your front wore out first. How many miles did you get out of it? Also do you do track days? Track days generally wear the tires much quicker, but still usually the rear wears more. Are you doing stunts? Also maybe check your tire pressures. Over or under inflated tires wear quicker. Again, I usually respond much quicker to comments, but I need to check my You Tube settings.
What you need is the same socket that fits many of the Ducati rear wheels. The one I bought, also from Amazon, was called a Ducati rear wheel socket. Look closely at the pictures and you should be able to see if it is the right one. You are not the only one who has had a tough time getting the right one. The manual and the dealership did not even know which one it was. Best of luck getting the right one. Hopefully Amazon gives you a refund.
It is the same "socket" as a lot of Ducati rear axles. It is an odd shape. It did not have a size or number for it when I ordered it. I found it on Amazon described as "Ducati rear wheel axle tool". I hope that helps.
Damn. I just pulled the rear wheel and the two spacers fell out. I didn’t see what came out first? How do they go back? You didn’t really show that well
I've been there before. It sucks. Anyway... first on is the very large conical spacer. The smaller side fits inward. This keeps the wheel centered on the axle. Next on is the flat washer/spacer. It fits inside the recess of the large conical spacer. I don't think it matters which way you put it on, but I usually put the cleanest side facing in. Then comes the bowl shaped or angled washer. That one goes with the smaller side in. This means that the nut will press on the outside edge of the washer and the smaller edge will press on the flat washer. This is designed to change the outer edge pressure from the axle nut to the inner part of the axle. It may look like the washer is supposed to be bowed out so the nut can compress it, but it is not supposed to go that way. It's designed to transfer the pressure from the outer edge of the washer towards the innermost part of the axle. Last of course is the axle nut. I don't use the torque specs, but I figure at about 100-120 footpounds of torque. Don't forget to put the funky cotter pins back on. I hope you can understand this. If not reply and maybe we could chat via email or something.
@@Inthewind24 Glad I could help. I hope you subscribe and check out my other videos. I have a lot going on but I really like making these videos when I can. I want to hit that magic 500 subscribers mark this year. Then I could earn that million dollars a tenth of a penny at a time. LOL. 😉
I don't have a lot of faith in torque specs. Generally speaking, I will go by feel for nuts/bolts that require a lot of torque. I very rarely have any problems with stuff loosening up. I will use the torque specs or close to them on any internal fasteners though. If I am fastening an engine cover or a sprocket which has more than one fastener, I'm very careful to assure that they are all torqued equally though.
Remarkable, only driven 5200 km, was worn, also the sides. Greetings from Belgium
You must ride fast.
Nice mileage out of that tire . Mine got a nail had to have it towed home. Also buying same tire they are good.
Yeah nails suck. I once put a new Pirelli Diablo Rossi (around $250) on the Speed Triple and got a nail on the ride home. 😭
@@scottsspeedtriplechannel I got 5000 miles on my bike now. So that's not too bad .
I put 7,000 on it in the first year. Now just over 2 years still not 10,000. I hope you're enjoying the heck out of it. I have to get 2 recalls done and the yearly service light reset, but then I may get the remapping download.
@scottsspeedtriplechannel you got one of the early ones mine had all the recalls done when I got it in February. 5000 miles since I got it love this thing
@@scottsspeedtriplechannel what recalls do u need
What stand are you using?
I am using a "PitBull" brand reversible rear stand. Please watch my video titled "KUDOS to PitBull".
You can see the different stands I use and hear a bit about them
Thanks for watching, commenting and subscribing.
Enjoy the ride. 😀
Hi Scott,,, just wondering your experience with rr k3 in rain,, I'm putting now m9rr on mine
I've only ridden in the rain maybe a dozen times with this bike. I haven't had any problems with the Metzeler RRs in the rain or on wet surfaces.
I generally slow my speeds and in heavy storms I switch to rain mode. The rear tire has kicked in the antilocks a few times in the rain, but I also have had it kick on a few times in the dry. Probably because I overlapplied the rear brake.
I had heard they were not good in the rain, but for the riding that I do they were fine.
Hi Scott, am changing both tires on mine this weekend - need to remove both wheels and take them to the local workshop as I don't have the tooling to swap the tires themselves. A couple of questions for you - have you removed your front wheel at all? Did you need to remove the callipers to do this? I'm looking at a cable that runs into the right hand calliper (looking straight on at the bike) and wondering how to handle it, i.e. does it need to be disconnected in anyway?
Many thanks in advance from the UK
I have not removed my front wheel yet, but I think I can help you.
You do need to remove the calipers. This makes it much easier to remove and also will ensure that they are correctly realigned when reinstalling the wheel.
Just unbolt each caliper and hang them with a bungee cord to keep them from falling down. Try to keep them in a similar position so no air bubbles will occur.
You shouldn't need to disconnect any wires or brake lines.
Remove the caliper bolts and calipers first. Then once the axle nut and pinch bolts are loosened and the axle is removed the wheel will slide down and out.
After the wheel is out use a screwdriver or similar tool wrapped with tape or cloth between the brake pads on each caliper to pry or press the pads open. Be careful not damage the pads.
When you have the wheel reinstalled this will make it easy to slip the calipers back over the disc. Install the wheel, then the calipers, but do not tighten any bolts.
Then tighten the axle and pinch bolts. Next just barely snug the caliper bolts and spin the wheel several times and gently slowly apply the brakes. This will help squeeze the caliper and pads back onto the disc's and align the calipers.
After doing this a few times, usually feel that the brakes are snug when applied. Then on the last time spinning the wheel apply the brakes smoothly to stop the wheel and hold pressure on the brake while tightening both calipers. This ensures that the calipers and pads are aligned properly.
The final torqued does not need to be done during this process, but the axle and calipers should be pretty tight.
@@scottsspeedtriplechannel Huge thanks! Im trying this today when my axel bit arrives so will let you know how it goes. Rear wheel came off a treat, although both the bowl and flat washer fell out together. As I understand it, the bowled washer needs to be installed with the top lip against the flat washer, bottom of the bowl goes against the main 12 point nut..? Again really appreciate your help mate.
@@jacobleppard2039 You're welcome. I'm glad I could help.
Hope the job goes smooth for you.
Enjoy the ride.
@@jacobleppard2039 BTW... I'm pretty sure the bowled washer fits small side to the wheel, large side facing out.
That is how I have mine ever since my first time removing the wheel. If you could find a schematic we could both be sure. LOL.
Nearly 10,000 miles with mine in that position with no troubles yet. You'd think maybe they could label it though.
Did the front wear faster than the back cos
mine did
Sorry about not getting back to you sooner. I didn't get a notification about your comment.
No, my front tire did not wear faster than my rear one. I now have 10,000 miles on the original front tire.
It is strange that your front wore out first. How many miles did you get out of it? Also do you do track days? Track days generally wear the tires much quicker, but still usually the rear wears more.
Are you doing stunts? Also maybe check your tire pressures. Over or under inflated tires wear quicker.
Again, I usually respond much quicker to comments, but I need to check my You Tube settings.
What socket is that? I got one from amazon but it did not fit. Said its the 55mm 12 point but it wont go in. Thanks
What you need is the same socket that fits many of the Ducati rear wheels.
The one I bought, also from Amazon, was called a Ducati rear wheel socket. Look closely at the pictures and you should be able to see if it is the right one.
You are not the only one who has had a tough time getting the right one. The manual and the dealership did not even know which one it was.
Best of luck getting the right one. Hopefully Amazon gives you a refund.
Du I get it right, that you mix Tyres by using Pirelli Supercorsa at the front and Metzler RR on the rear?
No. I have Metzelers front and rear. I like to keep the same brand and model tires front and rear.
@@scottsspeedtriplechannel yes, me to I just thought because Pirelli is the first tyre on mine.
When my Pirelli is done, I plan to change to Metzler M9RR
@brasletti5191 So are still on the original tires? Pirellis front and rear?
Yes! My Speedy is still fresh. Only 2700 km = 1600 mi
What a pain to change out a tire.
I really don't mind doing my own work on the bike. Yeah, sometimes it's difficult or time consuming, but it is satisfying when it's finished.
Hello, nice to know, I would like to know what key number do you use to remove the rear wheel?
It is the same "socket" as a lot of Ducati rear axles. It is an odd shape. It did not have a size or number for it when I ordered it.
I found it on Amazon described as "Ducati rear wheel axle tool".
I hope that helps.
Damn. I just pulled the rear wheel and the two spacers fell out. I didn’t see what came out first? How do they go back? You didn’t really show that well
I've been there before. It sucks.
Anyway... first on is the very large conical spacer. The smaller side fits inward. This keeps the wheel centered on the axle.
Next on is the flat washer/spacer. It fits inside the recess of the large conical spacer. I don't think it matters which way you put it on, but I usually put the cleanest side facing in.
Then comes the bowl shaped or angled washer. That one goes with the smaller side in. This means that the nut will press on the outside edge of the washer and the smaller edge will press on the flat washer. This is designed to change the outer edge pressure from the axle nut to the inner part of the axle.
It may look like the washer is supposed to be bowed out so the nut can compress it, but it is not supposed to go that way. It's designed to transfer the pressure from the outer edge of the washer towards the innermost part of the axle.
Last of course is the axle nut. I don't use the torque specs, but I figure at about 100-120 footpounds of torque.
Don't forget to put the funky cotter pins back on.
I hope you can understand this. If not reply and maybe we could chat via email or something.
@@scottsspeedtriplechannel awesome. Thank you! That’s a big help.
@@Inthewind24 Glad I could help. I hope you subscribe and check out my other videos.
I have a lot going on but I really like making these videos when I can. I want to hit that magic 500 subscribers mark this year.
Then I could earn that million dollars a tenth of a penny at a time. LOL. 😉
@@scottsspeedtriplechannel subscribed!
Why 124 ftlbs ,when it's spec to be 147?
I don't have a lot of faith in torque specs. Generally speaking, I will go by feel for nuts/bolts that require a lot of torque.
I very rarely have any problems with stuff loosening up. I will use the torque specs or close to them on any internal fasteners though.
If I am fastening an engine cover or a sprocket which has more than one fastener, I'm very careful to assure that they are all torqued equally though.