Just to clear up some confusion, some people are concerned about the gap between the right fork leg, (left as you look at the video) and the wheel spacer. This is normal, it is a floating axle, so front spindle/axle and pinch bolt tightened as the video shows. There will then be a small gap between fork leg and spacer.
At @ 11:18 on the hub you can see two holes ( there are also two holes opposite) that when the nut is put back on and torqued up to 146nm the circlip bends back on itself ( like a letter G is a good description) and goes through the castellation and into one of the holes. So you know its spot on. My bike is 2018 RS. Great video as all yours are and helped me perfectly.
I was writing down this same list after searching internet forums and then finding this video. I appreciate this channel but it is still rather frustrating that you have to skip around to find this info. I feel like that is what a lot of people come here for. Why not mention all of that at the beginning, or at the very least include it in the description? I was standing at Home Depot today in front of the torque wrenches for 20 minutes, googling all this shit on my phone (what torque range do I need, what size sockets do I need, etc.) and I finally just left because anyone who knows seems to be stingy with the info. I guess this is just a verbose way of saying thank you for posting this!
Hi . . when you loosen the pinchbolts (and when you tighten them), it's a good idea to do them each a little at a time. If you undo one full first, all the strain is transferred to the other bolt which is why it was tight. This can rarely lead to a bolt being stripped. When replacing them, if you torque one up to 19nm and then the other . . . the first will no longer be fully tight j- again, do each up little by little, alternating from one to the other ;-)
Hi, Very useful video. I'm no mechanic either, but I have been doing all maintenance and repairs on my five 955/1050 triples for 15 years and 200,000km, so far. May I make two suggestions: 1. Remove the front ABS sensor to eliminate the risk of damaging the emitter wheel as the front wheel is manoeuvred out and in. Be sure to reinstall the washer under the sensor. 2. After the 2nd pinch bolt is torqued to 19Nm, go back and torque both of them again, and again. Each one takes pressure off the other as it is tightened. This applies to triple clamp bolts too. My Supercorsas lasted 7000km, both completely worn out.
Good points there. I didn’t want to take the abs sensor off, as I like to disturb as little as possible. I know what you mean about the triple clamps, always a good idea to re-torque them 👍🏼
Remember if adding copper grease to threads reduce the torque figures about 30% as the copper grease acts as a lubricant and you’ll over torque the nut or bolt quite a lot. Torque figures in manuals are quoted as ‘dry’.
Nice video NMM. Just purchased my 2018 Speed Triple RS, which has the SC tyres on it. They have to go, for usability on our roads. So my Road 5's have just arrived and I'll use this video to get my wheels to a tyre fitter. Cheers.
Just bought an Speed triple r from 2012. Not planning to do anything myself on the bike but anyhow im still enyoing your videos. Keep it up. Mine has run 38.000km
Love these vids. Helped me already, furlough forces me to service my bike myself 😳. Can't find anyone doing these videos for a street triple 765 though. Maybe I should 🙅♂️
I have a 2020 Speed Triple RS and love the bike so great video to bookmark for when that time comes. Not a good idea getting all those chemicals on your hands though.
I own a 2006 Speed Triple and a 2009 Street Triple,both fitted with Michelin Road 5 tyres.Brilliant road tyres in my opinion.Plenty of meat on them!Not really the best for track days apparently.Have you ever checked your valve clearances and had to re-shim any valves?I bought my 2006 Speed last year with only 9000 miles on the clock.Over winter I checked the valves and had to re-shim 9 out of 12.It's not too hard a job ...I had already done the valves on the Street 2 years previously.And I am also not a motorbike mechanic!But watching videos like yours is a lot better than the Haynes manuals with their tiny B+W photos.
Edgardo Munoz, the supercorsa is a great tyre, grip is superb. The road 4's are good, but the 5's I feel are better. If money was no object, I would probably stay with a sports tyre. But if I had to do a blind test (that be fun on a bike) I don't think your average ride would notice the difference.
Those pilot4's seemed to have lasted a good long while. How many miles did you manage with the stock Supercorsa's? Curious as my Supercorsas are almost finished after ~4,100 miles in mostly Road mode.
@@notamotorbikemechanic I questioned my conversion, but double checked. 6,432 km (metric out my way) or 3,997 miles. Just enough life to see a few days in spring and toss them.
its online only tritun.net. but you could use this manual for some things, its for 2011-2015 I think. drive.google.com/file/d/1BeY2o5-71r4ULs2Cwd0d4q6TszlMZxNe/view?usp=drivesdk
The centre stand is a cheap one from my local bike shop, not sure of brand (it was under £30) The stand us n 'eazy rizer' on-bike.com/motorcycle-lifts?filter_product-type=eazyrizer-original-red
Hav’nt done it myself yet but I read it’s a good idea, after pumping the suspension, to fit the callipers and bungee the front brake on thus centralising the discs before tightening the pinch bolts. Seems to make sense?
I can't see it making a lot of difference, especially if you don't remove the calipers. Even if you do, the discs are floating. So should move around. That said I do it sometimes, doesn't harm.
My 09 speed triples rear caliper mount shifted and won’t allow me to fit the rear caliper pits back in to seat the caliper. Do you have any idea how to make it fit?
You should not put lubricant on the mating faces, washers, only a little on the thread. Torque values are generally given for a dry fit tension, unless specifically stated otherwise. You will over tighten / stretch bolt, particularly important when doing head bolts or screws going into alloy threads.
Fair point, I'd be a lot more cautious about putting grease on the thread if not specified. Just to clear it up, the manual doesn't mention greasing the thread, I put some on because there was some already there.
@@notamotorbikemechanic thank you for taking my comment in the spirit it was made. I wouldn't worry about a little light grease on the thread, with the Belville (saucer) washer torqued correctly and the retaining clip in place, the rim will be perfectly secure. "Copper Grease" would be unlikely from the factory and in my opinion it is to engineering what antibiotics have become to healthcare, over used and often inappropriately so.
Niall Sommerville, that's what this is all about, commenting and sharing advice. Not sure where the copper grease came from, I've had the bike from new. If it wasn't the factory, must have been the dealer 🏍
@@notamotorbikemechanic hi , I'm just finding your video now 👍 I also bought my 17plate Speed triple *S* brand new but couldn't adjust the chain tension. Took it to a mechanic and to his horror 😱 the inside of the concentric mechanism was full of COPPER EASE 🤷🏻♂️ this in turn had actually ceased the adjustment 😡🤬
Yeah it’s hard to know what to use, and it’s often not clear in the manual. I just lubricate with whatever was used from factory. When servicing the chain adjuster, I used copper grease, because it’s what was there originally. Personally I would have thought, standard grease would be better. Anyway welcome to the channel 👍🏼
Hallo, habe die Abdeckung der hinteren Radmutter abgeschraubt. Wenn ich wieder drauf montiere habe ich einen Spalt von 4- 5 mm. Da stimmt doch was nicht.
Just looking at the video it looks like the bike may be on its own weight, which is fine for loosening at the very start but the fact that there is weight on the front wheel means that it will find the path of least resistance to move which in this case was to move the fork, should you not of lifted the front end up and took the weight of the front wheel??
Hi Sonysv21, thanks for your comments. It is on the ground at the start, but from 3:15 onwards you can see its off the floor. The spindle had got itself very stuck. take care NMM
sonysv1, I think they are great. Good combination of road holding wet & dry, awesome longevity. I think unless your a very good/hard road rider, you wouldn’t notice the difference between the road 5’s and a sport focused tyre 👍🏼
@@notamotorbikemechanic Good to here my bike came with a new set or supercorsas as soon as one of them is done I'll be getting a new set but that will probay be next year at this rate
I think the supercorsa is that tyre that come originally. A good dry weather tyre, but entertaining in the wet. I found it difficult to get 2000 miles out of them.
Stop applying common sense! You’ll do the “experts” out of a job. And as correctly observed, a spacer is just a spacer. Possibly just an edge left by machining that could easily have been unnoticed during initial assembly. Excellent walkthrough of this procedure.
ciao, ho tradotto il tuo messaggio e penso che tu stia chiedendo l'impostazione del tourqe. asse ruota anteriore 65 (Nm) pinze freno anteriore 55 (nm) bulloni di serraggio 19 (nm) spero che questo ti aiuti. stai attento
Just to clear up some confusion, some people are concerned about the gap between the right fork leg, (left as you look at the video) and the wheel spacer.
This is normal, it is a floating axle, so front spindle/axle and pinch bolt tightened as the video shows. There will then be a small gap between fork leg and spacer.
At @ 11:18 on the hub you can see two holes ( there are also two holes opposite) that when the nut is put back on and torqued up to 146nm the circlip bends back on itself ( like a letter G is a good description) and goes through the castellation and into one of the holes. So you know its spot on. My bike is 2018 RS. Great video as all yours are and helped me perfectly.
46mm socket 146nm
17mm hex axle bolt 65nm
Pump suspension
6mm hex pinch bolts torqued to 19nm
8mm hex brake caliper bolts 55nm
You got that in freedom units? Kidding!
I was writing down this same list after searching internet forums and then finding this video. I appreciate this channel but it is still rather frustrating that you have to skip around to find this info. I feel like that is what a lot of people come here for. Why not mention all of that at the beginning, or at the very least include it in the description?
I was standing at Home Depot today in front of the torque wrenches for 20 minutes, googling all this shit on my phone (what torque range do I need, what size sockets do I need, etc.) and I finally just left because anyone who knows seems to be stingy with the info. I guess this is just a verbose way of saying thank you for posting this!
Hi . . when you loosen the pinchbolts (and when you tighten them), it's a good idea to do them each a little at a time. If you undo one full first, all the strain is transferred to the other bolt which is why it was tight. This can rarely lead to a bolt being stripped. When replacing them, if you torque one up to 19nm and then the other . . . the first will no longer be fully tight j- again, do each up little by little, alternating from one to the other ;-)
Hi, Very useful video. I'm no mechanic either, but I have been doing all maintenance and repairs on my five 955/1050 triples for 15 years and 200,000km, so far. May I make two suggestions:
1. Remove the front ABS sensor to eliminate the risk of damaging the emitter wheel as the front wheel is manoeuvred out and in. Be sure to reinstall the washer under the sensor.
2. After the 2nd pinch bolt is torqued to 19Nm, go back and torque both of them again, and again. Each one takes pressure off the other as it is tightened. This applies to triple clamp bolts too.
My Supercorsas lasted 7000km, both completely worn out.
Good points there.
I didn’t want to take the abs sensor off, as I like to disturb as little as possible.
I know what you mean about the triple clamps, always a good idea to re-torque them 👍🏼
Remember if adding copper grease to threads reduce the torque figures about 30% as the copper grease acts as a lubricant and you’ll over torque the nut or bolt quite a lot. Torque figures in manuals are quoted as ‘dry’.
Fantastic walk-through. Thank you for posting this!
Nice video NMM. Just purchased my 2018 Speed Triple RS, which has the SC tyres on it. They have to go, for usability on our roads. So my Road 5's have just arrived and I'll use this video to get my wheels to a tyre fitter. Cheers.
Just bought an Speed triple r from 2012. Not planning to do anything myself on the bike but anyhow im still enyoing your videos. Keep it up. Mine has run 38.000km
glad your enjoying the channel
Thanks for this video, it came in very useful today.
Love these vids. Helped me already, furlough forces me to service my bike myself 😳. Can't find anyone doing these videos for a street triple 765 though. Maybe I should 🙅♂️
Glad to help, yeah get a channel going 👍🏼
I have a 2020 Speed Triple RS and love the bike so great video to bookmark for when that time comes. Not a good idea getting all those chemicals on your hands though.
Glad to help, thanks for the concern 🙌
I own a 2006 Speed Triple and a 2009 Street Triple,both fitted with Michelin Road 5 tyres.Brilliant road tyres in my opinion.Plenty of meat on them!Not really the best for track days apparently.Have you ever checked your valve clearances and had to re-shim any valves?I bought my 2006 Speed last year with only 9000 miles on the clock.Over winter I checked the valves and had to re-shim 9 out of 12.It's not too hard a job ...I had already done the valves on the Street 2 years previously.And I am also not a motorbike mechanic!But watching videos like yours is a lot better than the Haynes manuals with their tiny B+W photos.
Hi, no I’ve not done valve clearances.
It’s a job I’m saving for a cold winters day 😂
Sading is always good mate
Great vid... How do you like the grip on dry, twisty roads on those Road 5s? How much of a difference from the stock SuperCorsa?
Edgardo Munoz, the supercorsa is a great tyre, grip is superb. The road 4's are good, but the 5's I feel are better.
If money was no object, I would probably stay with a sports tyre. But if I had to do a blind test (that be fun on a bike) I don't think your average ride would notice the difference.
nice vid as usual,whats the make of the bike lift you are using ?
its an Eazy Rizer, kindly on loan from a friend
Those pilot4's seemed to have lasted a good long while. How many miles did you manage with the stock Supercorsa's? Curious as my Supercorsas are almost finished after ~4,100 miles in mostly Road mode.
Wow is that a typing error 4100 mile on a supercorsa? Think I scraped 2000 mile out of mine.
@@notamotorbikemechanic I questioned my conversion, but double checked. 6,432 km (metric out my way) or 3,997 miles. Just enough life to see a few days in spring and toss them.
That's good going David, like I said mine were shot @ 2k, should have changed at 1500 miles.
Apologies if this has been asked but where did you get the service manual? Thanks
its online only tritun.net.
but you could use this manual for some things, its for 2011-2015 I think.
drive.google.com/file/d/1BeY2o5-71r4ULs2Cwd0d4q6TszlMZxNe/view?usp=drivesdk
Great video.
What center stand is that?
You have a link to the Jack?
Thanks
The centre stand is a cheap one from my local bike shop, not sure of brand (it was under £30)
The stand us n 'eazy rizer' on-bike.com/motorcycle-lifts?filter_product-type=eazyrizer-original-red
Hav’nt done it myself yet but I read it’s a good idea, after pumping the suspension, to fit the callipers and bungee the front brake on thus centralising the discs before tightening the pinch bolts. Seems to make sense?
I can't see it making a lot of difference, especially if you don't remove the calipers.
Even if you do, the discs are floating. So should move around.
That said I do it sometimes, doesn't harm.
My 09 speed triples rear caliper mount shifted and won’t allow me to fit the rear caliper pits back in to seat the caliper. Do you have any idea how to make it fit?
Hmmm would have to see it.
Send pictures on email
notamotorbikemechanic@gmail.com
You should not put lubricant on the mating faces, washers, only a little on the thread. Torque values are generally given for a dry fit tension, unless specifically stated otherwise. You will over tighten / stretch bolt, particularly important when doing head bolts or screws going into alloy threads.
Fair point, I'd be a lot more cautious about putting grease on the thread if not specified. Just to clear it up, the manual doesn't mention greasing the thread, I put some on because there was some already there.
@@notamotorbikemechanic thank you for taking my comment in the spirit it was made. I wouldn't worry about a little light grease on the thread, with the Belville (saucer) washer torqued correctly and the retaining clip in place, the rim will be perfectly secure. "Copper Grease" would be unlikely from the factory and in my opinion it is to engineering what antibiotics have become to healthcare, over used and often inappropriately so.
Niall Sommerville, that's what this is all about, commenting and sharing advice. Not sure where the copper grease came from, I've had the bike from new. If it wasn't the factory, must have been the dealer 🏍
@@notamotorbikemechanic hi , I'm just finding your video now 👍 I also bought my 17plate Speed triple *S* brand new but couldn't adjust the chain tension. Took it to a mechanic and to his horror 😱 the inside of the concentric mechanism was full of COPPER EASE 🤷🏻♂️ this in turn had actually ceased the adjustment 😡🤬
Yeah it’s hard to know what to use, and it’s often not clear in the manual.
I just lubricate with whatever was used from factory.
When servicing the chain adjuster, I used copper grease, because it’s what was there originally. Personally I would have thought, standard grease would be better.
Anyway welcome to the channel 👍🏼
What do you use on your wheels to keep them glossy?
Normally I spray them with GT85, it also works well on plastics.
Hallo, habe die Abdeckung der hinteren Radmutter abgeschraubt. Wenn ich wieder drauf montiere habe ich einen Spalt von 4- 5 mm. Da stimmt doch was nicht.
If you talking about the part @ 9.53.
This is onlya cover, so gap is not important 👍
@@notamotorbikemechanic I try it in your language. Tanks for the very quik Response.
You sounded like the Hound from Game of Thrones no offense 😂 good quality video tho
Lol never seen GOT, will have to watch now 😂
Hi mate could you tell me or would you know if the wheels off your bike would fit my 2003 speed 955i. Many thanks
Sorry I wouldn’t know that.
You could cross reference them with parts list, I use worldoftriumph.com.
Where did you get that hub cover?
It’s standard on the R model.
You can get them online.
Try www. worldoftriumph.com
Just looking at the video it looks like the bike may be on its own weight, which is fine for loosening at the very start but the fact that there is weight on the front wheel means that it will find the path of least resistance to move which in this case was to move the fork, should you not of lifted the front end up and took the weight of the front wheel??
Hi Sonysv21, thanks for your comments.
It is on the ground at the start, but from 3:15 onwards you can see its off the floor.
The spindle had got itself very stuck.
take care NMM
@@notamotorbikemechanic
Yeah I seen that I have a 16 plate S model, how do you find the road 5s??
sonysv1, I think they are great.
Good combination of road holding wet & dry, awesome longevity.
I think unless your a very good/hard road rider, you wouldn’t notice the difference between the road 5’s and a sport focused tyre 👍🏼
@@notamotorbikemechanic
Good to here my bike came with a new set or supercorsas as soon as one of them is done I'll be getting a new set but that will probay be next year at this rate
I think the supercorsa is that tyre that come originally.
A good dry weather tyre, but entertaining in the wet.
I found it difficult to get 2000 miles out of them.
Stop applying common sense! You’ll do the “experts” out of a job. And as correctly observed, a spacer is just a spacer. Possibly just an edge left by machining that could easily have been unnoticed during initial assembly. Excellent walkthrough of this procedure.
Cheers Dave 😄
hi there, may I know the brand and model number of the center stand? Cheers.
on-bike.com/
For some reason, the wheels and the cooling system on S3 bikes are dreadful. That rear wheel bead is infamous too.
Please give us more information, personally i find my bike fine?
Copia serraggio (Nm) viti pinze BREMBO, ho la moto come la tua. Ciao grazie.
ciao, ho tradotto il tuo messaggio e penso che tu stia chiedendo l'impostazione del tourqe.
asse ruota anteriore 65 (Nm)
pinze freno anteriore 55 (nm)
bulloni di serraggio 19 (nm)
spero che questo ti aiuti.
stai attento
@@notamotorbikemechanic Grazie, molto gentile.