Dude so many things went wrong during the filming of this episode, in the end the audio was a combination of a bare omni mic placed in the sink + tiny shotgun mic just out of the shot.
Gregg you've just listed my Top 2 inspirations for making this channel! With a bit more budget and production, my goal is to one day do a shot-for-shot remake of the Calumet LF video!
wow that intro and the styling of the whole video just reminded me of Bob Ross. "Remember, there are not mistakes, only happy accidents" He used to say. Cool process
The coating sequence was very Bob Ross. Xmas 2020 my daughters gifted me a Bob Ross calendar. I also tried a Bob Ross photo once. Even a tree lived there. From all of us here happy printing and....
fabulous video! I'm picking up tips for my next process - vandyke brown, and this is really helpful to watch - especially the coating technique and the pouring on of the chemistry. I'm so used to filling the trays first in silver gelatin - this is a whole new technique! Thanks a million!
Dorothy I'm glad you found this helpful and it was great getting to hang out with you at Photostock! Can't wait to see more work with that big soft focus lens of yours!
Great video. Good to see Kallitypes getting some attention. You can make sodium citrate by adding 1 tablespoonful of citric acid to 750ml water. When dissolved add 3 tablespoons of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate). Then top up to 1 litre. Works great for Kallitypes and is a lot cheaper than buying sodium citrate. (It is here in the UK anyway.)
Delighted to see this! I remember you mentioning that you planned to do some kallitypes earlier. A couple of comments - Be sure to call it a "Callie-" type (like the girl's name) rather than a "Cauli-" type (like the vegetable)... the difference in pronunciation distinguishes it from the even earlier historical process by Fox-Talbot, the "calotype" which doesn't use the iron salts that the kallitype, argyrotype, and VanDyck Brown do. I noticed you only developed yours for about 2 minutes. One of the biggest long-term problems is underdevelopment with the iron salt processes, so it's actually better to let them continue for longer. Sandy King suggests from 5 to 10 minutes in the developer. The reason for the extended development time is that you want to make certain to remove all traces of the iron salts so that only the silver remains, as it is the iron salts that cause the staining. Using a double citric acid bath goes even further for reducing possible staining, especially in the toning stage. Toning - selenium toner is somewhat controversial with the iron salt prints and some folks say, don't bother, just do gold and/or platinum. You're replacing one 'noble" metal with a "more noble" metal and selenium doesn't bring enough "to the table", plus it will actually reduce the image if the print stays in the selenium toner for too long. And you can create some wonderful tonal effects with the gold toner - and yes you can split tone with gold and platinum toners! Another trick is to warm the toner in a hot water bath to about 38° - 40°C... make the toning go a bit faster. Sometimes I do use selenium toner AFTER gold toning - the reason being that selenium goes for the shadows first (which it is why it can bleach an image rather quickly if you're not careful) whereas the gold works on all the densities equally. So you get your highlights toned first with the gold toner, leaving some untoned silver in the shadows and then hit that with the selenium... it will change the overall contrast of the image. Finally, try some of the other developer solutions for getting different colors: for example, one of my favorites is using sodium acetate, which gives a more black color. When toned with gold chloride toners such as Moesch #10, the shadows and darker mid-tones take on a purple hue that is very rich. Another popular developer is using a combination at 1:1 of sodium citrate and ammonium citrate... it does a nice neutral tone. Again, so happy to see you post this here and I hope it inspires others to try this great process... and then take a look at the argyrotype process :)
I've never heard of developing a kallitype for less than eight minutes, but it makes sense since once you get it to the density you want and then replace the iron with a noble metal through toning, it'll become stable. Bostick and Sullivan makes a great affordable kit. My personal favorite developer is sodium acetate and tartaric acid. It gives a maroon black color especially when gold toned.
Nicely done! The audio and the look of the video had me checking to see if I had clicked on a really old LFF. That was a fun twist. Do you have a link where we can get a detailed view of the finished print? You never actually gave us a good look at it.
very interesting to see the way sodium citrate is used here- i'm used to it being used to achieve a glossy, smooth, stringy texture in macaroni and cheese. chemistry really is amazing!
Thanks Matt! Great info which will come in helpful for me. What can be changed in the Kallitype process to get more of a black/white result (within the limitations of the process)? Thanks!
Haha rolling with 4:3 aspect ratio, that's dedication to a bit. Great video as always. I love printing Kallitypes, got into them recently as well. I'm toning with gold chloride and absolutely love the purplish brown color I get. How much calibration did you do to get the dmax and contrast you liked in your prints? I've been using digital negatives and while I've gotten some results I like okay, I'm to the point where I think I'm going to start putting some potassium dichromate in the developer. Just been putting that off since it's the first introduction of a really nasty chemical into the process - everything else with Kallitypes is pretty benign.
Thanks for noticing the little production details! ;) As for calibration, I'm running pretty loose with my printing setup since I'm working with in-camera negatives. Years ago I started skewing my negative development towards "dual purpose" negatives for alt process and scanning, so that helps a bit. Pretty soon here I'll be trying out various dichromate concentrations in the developer, but it will require a bit more ventilation and safety gear once the orange powder comes out!
I see some deckle edge rulers but most are only 12 inch or are too exaggerated with the angles. What brand/where did you get yours? I suppose I could make one with a ruler from Lowes and a cutoff wheel?
Almost as easy as a deckle edge ruler, run a small bead of water with an eyedropper down the length of the paper and tear. BTW the one I use (got mine used) is from here: dualedgeripper.com/
mat, merry Chrismas!, but with this kallitype is this a "dryplate" style print, or more akin to the recent efforts of Ilford with their direct positive papers and the 'contact printing' process. cool looking, looks exactly like what the wet plate guys do when they add the colloiden to the glass plates.
Merry Xmas Andy! This process isn't quite like a dry plate or Ilford Direct Postive , I'd say it's closer to Platinum/Palladium printing and Salt printing. I've never tried hand-coating a dryplate, but there are some liquid emulsions out there that can be painted on a variety of surfaces. It's so cool that there's all of these different ways to make a print!
nice presentation - subdued matches the Season - but as the saying goes -- always be yourself -unless you can be Batman then always be Batman I've been doing salt and Platinum/Palladium for a bit now- looks like this is next - these how to's are very helpful
Thanks for the comment Rick! If you've been working in Pt/Pd and salt printing, Kallitypes will feel very, very familiar. This is going to become my go-to alt. process to save some $$ $ from Pt/Pd.
Maybe this is an stupid question but why try to not use the hair dryer in your hair again? I sometimes use my hair dryer with cyanotypes is that bad or something if then i use it in my hair? Great video by the way.
Hey there and thanks for the question! If you're doing an alternative process that uses dichromates and/or heavy metals, you'll want to avoid blowing around trace amounts of either since one is a carcinogen and the others bio-accumulate.
@@MatMarrash Thanks for your answer Mat! Forgive my ignorance, so in conclusion is safe use the hair dryer with cyanotype or should i avoid use it in my hair later?
Hey Hans, great question. Ferric oxalate can be produced with several compounds, and I think Bostick and Sullivan do a great job of laying out the various methods: www.bostick-sullivan.com/articles/ferriccoalate.html Cheers!
Okay, I'm mildly confused. The title clearly says "kallitype" but I kept hearing you say "calotype" -- it's been my understanding that these are separate, distinct processes. According to Wikipedia, Kallitype is an iron/silver process roughly similar to platinum/palladium (as you describe), with ferric oxalate sensitizer rather than the ferric ammonium citrate used for van Dyke Brown, but a silver final image that can be toned with various methods, while calotype is a paper negative process, that immediately preceded collodion negatives as the first reproducible (i.e. multiple copies possible) photographic process.
So worth it for the cheesy joke at the end. Come in with negatives and leave with positives. Mat how about a break down of what alt process suits what neg? I know printing out like techs like salt pint need much harder negs but then kalitype, cyanotype etc can do with softer.
Hey Roger thanks for the comment and question. With all of the nuance and ways to control tone, I'm guessing this isn't the last we'll see of this process on the channel. I prefer a more dense negative for printing, but additional contrast control is available via the addition of dichromate to the developer. Cheers!
@@MatMarrash being in Europe (well Scotland dragged from the EU against our will - another story) dichromate is restricted as a nasty carcinogen. Also I process at home and wash prints in the bath so would avoid it for that reason. I've been doing salt prints but sometimes I get a neg that is too soft so might try kalitype on those. I did some Argyrotypes with a kit but understand if I made that up myself I could control contrast. Anyhow merry Christmas. It's just turning midnight here.
I made a comment here and it looks like it vanished but I will repost. Please make sure you are following environmental regulations for your state before building darkroom labs in your house. You can be fined, or forced to report your waste removal to the state. Some states even mandate that you keep waste removal containers on your property and pay for schedule removals, that are then monitored, if you have a home lab; no joke. Also a lot of darkroom chemistry is not PH neutral. Meaning this ph can change your ground water after dumping, and not only effect your septic system but your ph levels in your well water. If you have a well or a septic system; or both, you need to consider how to handle this. Altering ph levels in your ground water can cause acidic water and your plumbing will be eroded by acid in your water. Eco pro and other brands have ph neutral products that are more environmentally safe, but I haven’t used them enough to comment on their actual claims. I love darkroom printing and I still do it, But new photographers need to understand the impact they can have on not only the environment, but their drinking water and waste removal. Kodak does not recommend home labs with any home with a septic system . You can contact Kodak directly for information. I feel this is important for folks to know and to consider, so I hope the comment remains now. Thank you.
Wow! What an episode! Wouldn't mind if this Bob Ross style was a recurring theme every once in a while. I love it.
Thanks Siro! It was a lot of fun to make this episode and I'm not going to rule out the possibility of this as a recurring series.
Totally enjoyed it too and couldn't help but picture Matt with the fro and bear of Bob Ross...carnival is around the corner ;) Best wishes to all.
Happy little Kallitype
Bob Ross-esque on a Christmas Eve is simply perfect. Thanks Mat!
This is an episode I've wanted to make for a while, somehow also fitting the season. Cheers!
@@MatMarrash You DO sound like Bob Ross in this one.
The audio...the AUDIO MATCHED PERFECTLY! Magnificent friend.
Dude so many things went wrong during the filming of this episode, in the end the audio was a combination of a bare omni mic placed in the sink + tiny shotgun mic just out of the shot.
Dedication to the bit +10. Love it.
Thank you for inspiring us all.
“…but I’m not gonna let it get me down” love it!
As enjoyable and relaxing to watch as the show it emulates. Well done, Mat.
Thank you very much Chris! :D
Very nice! What a great way to start my morning.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Omg I've been showing my kids at work (I'm a preschool teacher) bob ross and I'm ABSOLUTELY gonna show them this now too. Loved this!!
All along I was waiting for the proverbial "let's add a happy little tree" 😉
Happy Holidays Mat!
Happy holidays!
Bob would be proud
a real episode of asmr, wow, nice and slow work, but good explaining of what is going on.
- those ross vibes - just great
I was like "that's an interesting intro" then audibly laughed out loud when you spoke and I realized! Great stuff and happy holidays!
Excellent theming, Mat! Love it!
Serious Bob Ross vibes here, plus love the vintage video/audio work! PS: Gift is en route your way! Should get there in early January!
Thanks Alex, it was a lot of fun to make the footage lower fi for once. And thank you so much for the gift, Happy Holidays! :D
The legacy of Bob Ross lives on :) Nicely done Mat
"You can come in with a bunch of negatives, and leave with a bunch of positives" radiates extreme bob ross energy
no, just too much time in the darkroom, with the chemicals, hear how 'high' he sounds?
I thought it was a.perfect start to my day.
we just needed some "happy rectangles" or ''"happy little strokes" great episode
Very nice demonstration. A mix of Bob Ross and that ancient Calumet "first day on the job at the 4x5 photo studio" video. lol
Gregg you've just listed my Top 2 inspirations for making this channel! With a bit more budget and production, my goal is to one day do a shot-for-shot remake of the Calumet LF video!
also love that "safari" look, you should wear an Acubra hat with this outfit, would suit a treat.
Ha, this is the first of your videos I've watched, so I thought they were always like this. Good work sir!
Great how to video and a fun omage.
wow that intro and the styling of the whole video just reminded me of Bob Ross.
"Remember, there are not mistakes, only happy accidents" He used to say.
Cool process
Happy Holidays by the way, see you next year
There are no mistakes, only happy accidents.
I learned so much in this episode, what an enjoyable format both visually, and technically. Brilliant Mat, really.
The coating sequence was very Bob Ross. Xmas 2020 my daughters gifted me a Bob Ross calendar. I also tried a Bob Ross photo once. Even a tree lived there. From all of us here happy printing and....
Thank you very much for your great videos and have a nice 2022
Thank you Hans, Happy Holidays and see you all for more LFF in 2022!
fabulous video! I'm picking up tips for my next process - vandyke brown, and this is really helpful to watch - especially the coating technique and the pouring on of the chemistry. I'm so used to filling the trays first in silver gelatin - this is a whole new technique! Thanks a million!
Dorothy I'm glad you found this helpful and it was great getting to hang out with you at Photostock! Can't wait to see more work with that big soft focus lens of yours!
Great insight and instruction. Love the production style too! Thanks
Much appreciated!
Interesting to see this again I did this back in my college art photography classes. Thanks for reminding me about it.
You're very welcome!
Hahaha! Didn’t read the video title at first and thought I was witnessing the resurrection of Bob Ross 😅
It took so many takes to have the intro "feel" like Bob Ross, your comment is making all that work feel worthwhile!
@@MatMarrash It was well worth the effort cause you definitely nailed it 👍🏾
Great video as always, Mat-Bob! Looking forward to the next one and Merry Christmas!
Thanks and Merry Christmas to you too!
Great Episode hope you had a great Christmas Mat
Merry Christmas to you as well Anthony! :)
Matt... you KILLED it with this one! You could easily build a series around this Bob Ross style videos! For real though, Fantastic work as always!
Fantastic episode, Mat! I would love to try this process at home as I already do 4x5 and 8x10. Thanks for the hard work and the good vibes!
Awesome!!! I only ever did Cyanotypes and Van Dyke prints ... this looks like fun!!!
Watched this waiting for “ happy little tree” to come out.. good kid Mat, maybe you could fill in for Bob Ross. LOL
Great video. Good to see Kallitypes getting some attention. You can make sodium citrate by adding 1 tablespoonful of citric acid to 750ml water. When dissolved add 3 tablespoons of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate). Then top up to 1 litre. Works great for Kallitypes and is a lot cheaper than buying sodium citrate. (It is here in the UK anyway.)
Thanks Roger for hot tip on DIY sodium citrate!
Thank-you so much for all the effort you put into teaching us! Wishing you and your family Happy Holidays and a great New Year! Stay safe!
Thank you Paul, Happy Holidays and a Happy New Year to you and yours!
Delighted to see this! I remember you mentioning that you planned to do some kallitypes earlier. A couple of comments -
Be sure to call it a "Callie-" type (like the girl's name) rather than a "Cauli-" type (like the vegetable)... the difference in pronunciation distinguishes it from the even earlier historical process by Fox-Talbot, the "calotype" which doesn't use the iron salts that the kallitype, argyrotype, and VanDyck Brown do.
I noticed you only developed yours for about 2 minutes. One of the biggest long-term problems is underdevelopment with the iron salt processes, so it's actually better to let them continue for longer. Sandy King suggests from 5 to 10 minutes in the developer. The reason for the extended development time is that you want to make certain to remove all traces of the iron salts so that only the silver remains, as it is the iron salts that cause the staining. Using a double citric acid bath goes even further for reducing possible staining, especially in the toning stage.
Toning - selenium toner is somewhat controversial with the iron salt prints and some folks say, don't bother, just do gold and/or platinum. You're replacing one 'noble" metal with a "more noble" metal and selenium doesn't bring enough "to the table", plus it will actually reduce the image if the print stays in the selenium toner for too long. And you can create some wonderful tonal effects with the gold toner - and yes you can split tone with gold and platinum toners! Another trick is to warm the toner in a hot water bath to about 38° - 40°C... make the toning go a bit faster. Sometimes I do use selenium toner AFTER gold toning - the reason being that selenium goes for the shadows first (which it is why it can bleach an image rather quickly if you're not careful) whereas the gold works on all the densities equally. So you get your highlights toned first with the gold toner, leaving some untoned silver in the shadows and then hit that with the selenium... it will change the overall contrast of the image.
Finally, try some of the other developer solutions for getting different colors: for example, one of my favorites is using sodium acetate, which gives a more black color. When toned with gold chloride toners such as Moesch #10, the shadows and darker mid-tones take on a purple hue that is very rich. Another popular developer is using a combination at 1:1 of sodium citrate and ammonium citrate... it does a nice neutral tone.
Again, so happy to see you post this here and I hope it inspires others to try this great process... and then take a look at the argyrotype process :)
I've never heard of developing a kallitype for less than eight minutes, but it makes sense since once you get it to the density you want and then replace the iron with a noble metal through toning, it'll become stable. Bostick and Sullivan makes a great affordable kit. My personal favorite developer is sodium acetate and tartaric acid. It gives a maroon black color especially when gold toned.
Hey Nick thanks for the tip on the developer, there's so many cool variables to play with in Kallitypes! :D
Nicely done! The audio and the look of the video had me checking to see if I had clicked on a really old LFF. That was a fun twist. Do you have a link where we can get a detailed view of the finished print? You never actually gave us a good look at it.
How many chemicals do you need? Just one more...
Interesting process and an excellent, entertaining presentation, Mat. Thank you!
🤣🤣🤣Bob Ross! Awesome!!
Nothing like deckling the heck out of something!
This style is awesome!
Can you do the whole carbon printing process next, please?
Carbon printing is very much on the list. So far my attempts to get back into it have failed spectacularly. Stay tuned for more alt processes!
God blees you too!
Lol Bob would be proud!
I love Kallitype more than PT PD ! And just love gold tone colour.
very interesting to see the way sodium citrate is used here- i'm used to it being used to achieve a glossy, smooth, stringy texture in macaroni and cheese. chemistry really is amazing!
Thanks Matt! Great info which will come in helpful for me. What can be changed in the Kallitype process to get more of a black/white result (within the limitations of the process)? Thanks!
Hey Gary thanks for the question. Additional contrast control can be gained through longer exposure + 5% potassium dichromate to the developer.
@@MatMarrash Thanks! I'm assuming that would result in a print that is far less brown?
@@garyclennan2993 the brown will remain unless toned with something more neutral like Platinum or gold chloride.
I was so hoping you were going to hand feed a squirrel at the end.
I was prepared to cut-in footage of Strudel for the small mammal element, but recording of this episode went into the wee hours of the night.
Good instructon, thanks. I Wonder if it works whith a layer of gum bichromate on top as it does with Platinum.
Hey Paulo thanks for the comment! I believe gum-over is possible with Kallitype, though choice of papers may be less due to extended washing.
Wow, really feels like a Bob Ro... Ah, nevermind, well done!
Haha rolling with 4:3 aspect ratio, that's dedication to a bit.
Great video as always. I love printing Kallitypes, got into them recently as well. I'm toning with gold chloride and absolutely love the purplish brown color I get.
How much calibration did you do to get the dmax and contrast you liked in your prints? I've been using digital negatives and while I've gotten some results I like okay, I'm to the point where I think I'm going to start putting some potassium dichromate in the developer. Just been putting that off since it's the first introduction of a really nasty chemical into the process - everything else with Kallitypes is pretty benign.
Thanks for noticing the little production details! ;) As for calibration, I'm running pretty loose with my printing setup since I'm working with in-camera negatives. Years ago I started skewing my negative development towards "dual purpose" negatives for alt process and scanning, so that helps a bit. Pretty soon here I'll be trying out various dichromate concentrations in the developer, but it will require a bit more ventilation and safety gear once the orange powder comes out!
@@MatMarrash Yeah I didn’t even buy mine as powder, too scary. Even the solution has me nervous though.
I had my cringe/laugh ready and waiting for the first “fluffy happy…”.
I see some deckle edge rulers but most are only 12 inch or are too exaggerated with the angles. What brand/where did you get yours? I suppose I could make one with a ruler from Lowes and a cutoff wheel?
Almost as easy as a deckle edge ruler, run a small bead of water with an eyedropper down the length of the paper and tear. BTW the one I use (got mine used) is from here: dualedgeripper.com/
mat, merry Chrismas!, but with this kallitype is this a "dryplate" style print, or more akin to the recent efforts of Ilford with their direct positive papers and the 'contact printing' process.
cool looking, looks exactly like what the wet plate guys do when they add the colloiden to the glass plates.
Merry Xmas Andy! This process isn't quite like a dry plate or Ilford Direct Postive , I'd say it's closer to Platinum/Palladium printing and Salt printing. I've never tried hand-coating a dryplate, but there are some liquid emulsions out there that can be painted on a variety of surfaces. It's so cool that there's all of these different ways to make a print!
4:09 i love being a large format shooter
Is it something about painters? Your presentation style has gone from somewhat manic to that of Bob Ross:) - all great.
nice presentation - subdued matches the Season - but as the saying goes -- always be yourself -unless you can be Batman then always be Batman
I've been doing salt and Platinum/Palladium for a bit now- looks like this is next - these how to's are very helpful
Thanks for the comment Rick! If you've been working in Pt/Pd and salt printing, Kallitypes will feel very, very familiar. This is going to become my go-to alt. process to save some $$ $ from Pt/Pd.
Maybe this is an stupid question but why try to not use the hair dryer in your hair again? I sometimes use my hair dryer with cyanotypes is that bad or something if then i use it in my hair? Great video by the way.
Hey there and thanks for the question! If you're doing an alternative process that uses dichromates and/or heavy metals, you'll want to avoid blowing around trace amounts of either since one is a carcinogen and the others bio-accumulate.
@@MatMarrash Thanks for your answer Mat!
Forgive my ignorance, so in conclusion is safe use the hair dryer with cyanotype or should i avoid use it in my hair later?
@@facundomercy8585 With cyanotype you're likely fine, but I'd strongly recommend purchasing a separate hairdryer for the process.
nobody:
me: waiting patiently with my tube of titanium hwite.
Hello Mat, one question:
you use "ferric oxalate", I have a translation to german problem, can I also use "ammonium iron(III) oxalate"?
Hey Hans, great question. Ferric oxalate can be produced with several compounds, and I think Bostick and Sullivan do a great job of laying out the various methods: www.bostick-sullivan.com/articles/ferriccoalate.html Cheers!
@@MatMarrash Thank you for this information, it will help me.
🥰
Okay, I'm mildly confused. The title clearly says "kallitype" but I kept hearing you say "calotype" -- it's been my understanding that these are separate, distinct processes. According to Wikipedia, Kallitype is an iron/silver process roughly similar to platinum/palladium (as you describe), with ferric oxalate sensitizer rather than the ferric ammonium citrate used for van Dyke Brown, but a silver final image that can be toned with various methods, while calotype is a paper negative process, that immediately preceded collodion negatives as the first reproducible (i.e. multiple copies possible) photographic process.
You did the brushing wrong. You have to do little criss cross strokes! ;-)
So worth it for the cheesy joke at the end. Come in with negatives and leave with positives.
Mat how about a break down of what alt process suits what neg? I know printing out like techs like salt pint need much harder negs but then kalitype, cyanotype etc can do with softer.
Hey Roger thanks for the comment and question. With all of the nuance and ways to control tone, I'm guessing this isn't the last we'll see of this process on the channel. I prefer a more dense negative for printing, but additional contrast control is available via the addition of dichromate to the developer. Cheers!
@@MatMarrash being in Europe (well Scotland dragged from the EU against our will - another story) dichromate is restricted as a nasty carcinogen. Also I process at home and wash prints in the bath so would avoid it for that reason. I've been doing salt prints but sometimes I get a neg that is too soft so might try kalitype on those. I did some Argyrotypes with a kit but understand if I made that up myself I could control contrast. Anyhow merry Christmas. It's just turning midnight here.
I made a comment here and it looks like it vanished but I will repost.
Please make sure you are following environmental regulations for your state before building darkroom labs in your house. You can be fined, or forced to report your waste removal to the state. Some states even mandate that you keep waste removal containers on your property and pay for schedule removals, that are then monitored, if you have a home lab; no joke.
Also a lot of darkroom chemistry is not PH neutral. Meaning this ph can change your ground water after dumping, and not only effect your septic system but your ph levels in your well water. If you have a well or a septic system; or both, you need to consider how to handle this. Altering ph levels in your ground water can cause acidic water and your plumbing will be eroded by acid in your water.
Eco pro and other brands have ph neutral products that are more environmentally safe, but I haven’t used them enough to comment on their actual claims.
I love darkroom printing and I still do it, But new photographers need to understand the impact they can have on not only the environment, but their drinking water and waste removal. Kodak does not recommend home labs with any home with a septic system . You can contact Kodak directly for information.
I feel this is important for folks to know and to consider, so I hope the comment remains now.
Thank you.