Did EnDuraLast Ignition System just Die? BMW Airhead Misfiring, Sputtering, Stalling
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- Опубліковано 3 вер 2023
- After complete restoration of our 1977 BMW R75/7, this is the first problem we are experiencing. Bike's ignition misbehaves when outside temperature reaches 30C. Misfiring can be so bad that it is impossible to ride it. When cools down or when outside temperature drops, bike runs fine again. Troubleshooting says it is electronic ignition system we have on the bike.
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Wedgetail for the win. Fixed all my ignition related problems in my 81 R65
I have Piranha ignition on my 75/7, It works well but I live in Scotland so no problems with high temperatures, If I were having the same problem I would as Lars said put the points back on and see how it runs before ordering a new electronic ignition System. Thank you for the videos, I rebuilt my bike following your videos.
Thanks!!! Point well taken. Thanks for watching
I have wedgetail on bot my bikes. Only one is running at the moment the other is still in restoration but the one I ran this summer on my R80 works well. I did have one peculiar issue. One time only the bike would turn over but not start. I tried several times and not a kick. The bike was already at operating temperature so should have started immediately. I turned the ignition key off and immediately back on. The bike fired up right away with one quick press. This happened only one time. Weird.
Thanks for watching and sharing your story.
Mine was having the same symptoms with hiccups and backfiring. I’m still in the process of investigating, but when I removed the tank I noted that the black wire that goes into the ignition module had come loose. I briefly rode the bike and seemed to be fine, but I need to ride it longer to confirm.
Bad ground can definitely cause headache. Thanks for watching!
I had an issue w/ an Enduralast / Saches on an r75/5. Optical sensor went bad and left me stranded. Apparently they don't like the heat. When I got a new sensor, things were fine for a bit, but then it would start cutting out sometimes. Support mentioned that they are very susceptible to low voltage. So if your battery is < 12.5 volts you'll probably have issues. Long story short, i went to points and have it dialed in perfectly. I think these aftermarket ignitions are junk. Just stick with OEM.
Thanks Lars for sharing you valuable feedback. I was thinking of putting points back but somehow I would still like to have electronic ignition but reliable version. I’ll check out Wedgetail and report my findings. Battery is brand new and I tested it with load tester. No issues there. Thanks for watching!!!
You can also have the points and enduralast installed at the same time. I ended up putting a toggle switch (P vs E) on the coil ground wire and mounted the switch under the front of the tank. So you can switch between the 2 if you want. Makes it interesting to see if you tell a difference when switching while riding. Points 'felt' better to me, and had the reliability aspect. Idle position seems to be a little affected by the differences in spark. I think the idle setting on the carbs could be dropped a little when on electronic.
@@larsfiedler9991 Great idea Lars!!!
Did you check the wires going to diode board? I was told that maybe wires are connected to wrong screws there . Not the insulated terminal but the bare ones.
I was having same problems with my mechanic trying to install dyna 111 ignition and he couldn’t get two new ones to work without similar issues your having. Only having put back to points did the bike ride normal again.
Nope, this was was ignition failure and going back to points totally solved it. Thanks for watching!
I suspected that the Dyna III ignition on my '75 R90/6 (unknown date of install) was failing (misfires, stalls) because of heat (I live in the US south...) so I just replaced it with an EnDuraLast EDL 4 IGNS. Hoping I won't encounter the problems you are having! You've probably sorted this out on your bike by now, but I wonder if the location of the ignition unit might have been a problem. I put the new unit by the seat (as far from the engine as possible). So far so good, but we are only now moving into warmer weather, so time will tell.
Really enjoying your videos - I'm about to replace the rings and push rod seals on the bike, and your thorough demonstration on R75 is helpful!
Thank you Scott for watching. Heat is definitely big problem for these ignition modules and moving them away from engine totally makes sense. Dyna III I have on r90s is placed by the seat for that same reason. Installation instructions suggest having eme ignition up front and previous owner most likely went that route. I would definitely advise against it and move it more back. Keep the shiny side up!
@@airheadbarn One other thought - you mentioned that your caps are 2.3K ohms. EME says that each individual cap should be 5K ohm or it will damage the ignition unit. I replaced my 1K ohm caps with the 5K ohm caps from EME. So far no problem.
@@scott.lindroth airheads have either 1k plug caps (pre ‘81 points ignition) or 5k plug caps (post ‘81 electronic ignition). This bike originally had 1k caps which were replaced with 5k caps because of aftermarket electronic ignition that was added.