A very handy tip, thanks for posting! I want to try this for myself. BTW, a tip handed down to me by a long-deceased toolmaker I had the honor of working with was, whatever the pitch of the leadscrew is, you can cut multiples of it without using a thread dial. I was a maintenance machinist in a local rolling mill until last winter, and one of our lathes was a 1943 Monarch with a leadscrew of 2 TPI. All even numbered threads could be cut without the threading dial.
I just did this a few weeks back. Like an idiot I didn't check the scratch pass and I ended up turning a 14tpi thread instead of 8 but live and learn. Awesome video and great info. Thanks 👍
Guess what. I just got a new Baileigh Lathe and it does not have a thread dial. I sure thought it had one when I ordered it. I thought I was screwed cause I have lots of threading projects I want to do. The Chinese manual says to leave the screw ingaged and reverse it but I don't like to do that. I'm going to try your method. Sure glad you made the video. Thanks. Donald
Finally---something that works. I've tried a hundred times using different 'methods' found on the internet video's---but never, NEVER, was able to get my thread on a single track---Until now. THANK YOU Nasedo 375----Your instruction is worth it's weight in gold! Thank You---thank you----THANK YOU!
Seems like the help offered on youtube by true people sharing information and not trying to sell it is a great thing. Thanks for another way to solve a problem.
This is brilliant. If you own an old or used lathe, the threading dial is probably long gone and a replacement is difficult to find and expensive. I've been threading by using a reversing motor and driving the carriage back using the half-nuts. Can't wait to try this out!
You're a great instructor! Not everyone who does so, does it well. I have an old Dalton Six type B-4, made in 1918, and this is exactly how it's done, except I have to manually swap out gears.
GREAT video. Excellent quality, your explanation are simple but just what one needs to know. I am a beginner in this, and I understood everything you said. Obviously you have quite a bit of experience doing this. Thanks for taking the time to share it.
Marking the spindle and leadscrew with a sharpie is genius. It visualizes the fact that they meet up on the same point after a defined number of revolutions.
Fantastic video and explanation of the process. I was thinking of ways to make a cheap thread dial, when I saw your video. Problem solved. Thank You so much for sharing this.
There's a lot of crap on youtube; and you would have to look far and wide to find someone to dispute that, but when it comes to quality you're up there with the best of them. Well done!
Thank you, this is really helpful. I have a very old lathe with no threading dial and i find threading to be slow and stressful. This is going to help a lot.
This is great thank you. I have a Metric Boxford BUD and trying to find a metric dial indicator for it is near impossible so knowing how to do this without the dial gauge is invaluable.
Great teaching video, straightforward, no gimmicks. good teaching skill. thank you very much for your time and trouble, as soon as I get my little lathe up and running, I will try this great method. Colin UK.
I'm going to have to try this on my cheapo Chinese bench top lathe. My little bench top lathe does have a threading dial but, every time I've used that threading dial I've ended up with a cross-thread. No matter how slow the spindle is turning or how meticulous I am about taking the slack out of the lead screw, I always get the dreaded cross-threading.
Thank you. Thankyou, thankyou, thankyou! Fucking THANK YOU! :) I bought a 72 year old Myford MF74 (a rare old girl) and it has no TDI and little chance of finding one. Today, Thanks to You, I cut my first ever Thread - 3/8 x 20TPI. It's a bit rough if I'm honest with myself but it's a Thread and it works. Once more, Thank You xXx
Thanks a bunch - I have a Daewoo 20 x 60 with the leadscrew being a ballscrew and no thread dial. I can now use this technique for the balance of threads where you need to leave the half nut engaged.
I think you done a very good job with this video, not easy holding a camera in one hand, while operating a lathe with the other.. and watching it dont crash !!
Interesting technique. Normally I cut thread without disengaging the half-nuts, but If I ever need to thread a long piece I hope I remember this. Thanks for showing.
Thank you very much, I have just tried it but im still not sure about me cutting the thread because I have little space to disengage and go back. Also the thread needs to be cut into a very hard material and my tool is already dull, need to resharpen it. But I thank you very much.
Hi Mr. Nasedo. From a half a world away thanks for the great video. This should come in handy on my old South Bend 7.5" lathe that doesn't have a threading dial. The few threads that I've cut I just backed out and reversed the motor next time I cut a thread I'll try this . >Joe Baltimore MD. USA.
if youre using the modified flank infeed method your compound should be in the opposite. direction, this current setup is correct for external right hand threading.
I figured this method out on my own with a *lot* of trial and error; I certainly could have used this tutorial a couple of years ago! My 1910 Seneca Falls Star lathe has a weird 9tpi lead screw, so my only option is to use these reference marks to make a thread.
Thanks for the tip. I have a very old Hendey cone head lathe with out a thread dial. Though I can reverse the apron without disengaging the half nuts the marks can be used for reference. George
Is it possible to do finer threads ---in the 28-36 tpi using this method? Very inventive though, even if only rough threads (NPI?) can be done. Thx for simplifying what most have said in discouraging the use of a lathe to make threads, in favor of a boring bar.
I would find a half nut attachment for the lathe. They are out there at a reasonable price. I would think that any lathe with a quick change gear box, should have come with one or at least mounting holes for it.
Great video! The special boring bar tool holder/ tool post you made looks great too, very sturdy. I suppose two of the hexagon head screws are for rotational alignment of the tool, indexing on a flat? They might be fighting the clamping action of the whole block, or do you back them off before final tightening?
Oh the good old days, that's the way an old friend of mine was taught back in the late 1940's, he was always going on about using chalk marks when threading. Guess they didn't have Sharpies back then.
Pretty cool idea! I think I seen another guy do this or use this method he had digital read outs that's all he used its the same idea as yours I think? I know NOTHING about this stuff but I m going to defiantly watch and learn try and get started
Great info but question from a rookie . .. why did you use the compound at 29.5° angle to increase thread depth each pass and not just use the cross slide?
I guess the thread is a 60 degree 'groove'. Why is the tool holder slide (whatever it's called) set at 29 1/2 degrees and not 30? You might have guessed I'm a greenhorn!
I am new to machining. What do you call the type of tool holder you have that holds a round cutter. I am only familiar with the one that holds square tooling. Thanks'
Yeah that would be a good one, but I need to make a part to let me thread a 14 inch faceplate, make a riser block to fit a 13 inch SB tailstock to my 16 inch SB, and a BUNCH of other stuff involving not just machining. I hope to be in a "FREE" environment and making some videos by Summer. I hear the middle class are leaving the Globalist Republic of Kalifornica in droves...and taking their money with them.
Thanks very much for that , the gear that runs on my lead screw is missing out of thread dial on my ss1000 lathe and i cant get any one who is prepared to make one . But at least i can do some threading now . Cheers ..............:)
other thing I forgot to mention in this side of world we use European lathes with clutch since we mesh the threading lever we don't loosen it till finished the threading operation so no need for threading chase dial.
Hmmm...I was trying to set the compound so that the tool would be advanced into the leading edge of the thread. I will look up the modified flank infeed method.
excellent work I was looking for a video like this one because my lathe is a Logan 9B and it docent have tread dialer to so it those help me that video thanks body
Hey, Larry! This technique should work for any type of thread. Since it is really doing what the thread dial is usually telling you (that the headstock, leadscrew, and carriage are all aligned relative to one another), the type of thread should not matter in the least. Give it a try and let us all know.
the multiple rule is any multiple of the lead screw will drop it in the same spot, where ever you drop the 1/2 nut. The only thing you need to worry about is taking the slop out. You dont need any marks. If the feed is set to 8 tpi with an 8 tpi lead screw, I dont think its possible to miss 8 tpi?
My lead screw is 6 TPI, how does that work? I guess I have to check it out, once I finish the job in the chuck. It's been there for two years, or so. Stuff has been going on.... sigh...
I wanna talk about compound angle as for metric it is really 29.5 cuz metric thread angle is 60 so half of that less a little is okay but imperial is different angle it is 55 degrees half of it is 27. so the compound with imperial should be 27 degrees. i tried that and it is gave me good result.thanks for sharing this video.
I assume you in New South Wales bordering the Pacific Ocean; since there's no such place as New West Wales. New South Wales is where Sydney is located, so if that sounds familiar, that's where you are.
Very interesting. I will write a procedure for myself so I don't miss any steps in my shop log. This will enable a quick reference check. The great thing about my shop log is I also cross reference the video to the log if I need to review something. Can't wait to try this out as I have to build and adapter for my wood lathe for my Nova chuck. This will be a good metal lathe project to learn on while justifying the metal lathe cost to my beautiful project supervisor (e.g. Honey, guess how much I saved by making my own chuck adapter for my wood lathe!!! No, it didn't cost anything as I already had the correct tools for the job! LOL) Many thanks.
Thanks for the video, it has given me some confidence as i don't have a reversing switch or a thread dial. When backing out of the piece with the cross slide the returning to zero ready for putting on the next cut with the compound, what effect does backlash in the cross slide screw have? [I have a LOT of backlash]. Thanks
NEW WEST WALES is what I call the land bordering the Pacific ocean from Mexico in the south to Oregon in the north. Technically it doesn't exist, but it should. I live in a country founded by English colonists, and established on ideals espoused by John Locke and others. I am of English/Welsh descent and I feel my country and myself have everything in common with Great Britain... everything but the language. God save the Queen and keep the Constitution of these United States safe.
No the Atlas is a 12 inch with 24 inches between centers. As far as I know all the 6 inch Atlas/Craftsman metal lathes were made with a standard gear box.
just curious but arent you moving the tool forward when you bring the compound in ? its at an angle so theres a translation taking place or a vector velocity if you will
Late reply, but when you move the compound you are moving it at the angle of the thread. This places the cutting forces on the front face of the tool rather than splitting it between both faces. The tool is moving into the work piece at an angle that matches the back of the resulting cut like a chisel cutting forward and down rather than trying to plunge straight down into the work. Otherwise it wouldn't matter what angle you set the compound slide at so long as the form tool was at the correct angle. For acme threads this is even more important because you would have 3 cutting surfaces rather than 2, doing it this way would reduce that to 2 surfaces like it reduces the 2 surfaces of a typical thread to one.
If you mean you got a South Bend 16 inch lathe, then you probably have learned many were not even drilled and tapped for the thread dial. Threading dials were optional. Was your lathe drilled and tapped?
This was a great Video. I am starting to learn on a metal lathe I am a wood worker but need to do more with metal for my gun business . I am getting started with a Harbor freight 7 x 12 I looked at an Atlas th42 but it does not have the adjustable gears so dont know for $ 650 if its worth it .
So the Atlas TH42 was missing the change gears? That's not good. I paid $500.00 for an Atlas lathe with quick change gear box and Atlas metal floor stand. I would hold out for a later Atlas/Craftsman with the Timken roller bearings and a 1/2 inch thick bed ways. The older ones were 3/8 inch thick. Or you might try to find a 6 inch Atlas with 18 inches between centers. I am working on a video on "How to buy a used lathe," but there is a lot of work to do. :)
THE ATLAS, then put a cnc stepper drive synced to your spindle running the lead screw and you can very accurately cut ANY thread you want. Guns are notorious for having their own threads so even having change gears or metric gears won't help, cnc is the fix.
I recently picked up an Sears 12 x 36 Commercial with QCGB and TDI, looks similar to your Atlas. Mine is the under drive cabinet with chip pan, 1/2" ways...1970ish.
We have a lathe from the early 20s. No dial. Flat belt driven. Works great. I'm still wondering how they did it back then with no dial. For sure they didn't do it this way all the time.
I think they backed out the tool bit reversed the lathe and went back to the start, deepened the cut and made another pass. I don't know for sure, but maybe they did it that way. Someone else said an old timer talked about "Making the chalk marks." Maybe they did do it with the marks?? Anybody out there know?
A very handy tip, thanks for posting! I want to try this for myself. BTW, a tip handed down to me by a long-deceased toolmaker I had the honor of working with was, whatever the pitch of the leadscrew is, you can cut multiples of it without using a thread dial. I was a maintenance machinist in a local rolling mill until last winter, and one of our lathes was a 1943 Monarch with a leadscrew of 2 TPI. All even numbered threads could be cut without the threading dial.
I just did this a few weeks back. Like an idiot I didn't check the scratch pass and I ended up turning a 14tpi thread instead of 8 but live and learn. Awesome video and great info. Thanks 👍
Guess what. I just got a new Baileigh Lathe and it does not have a thread dial. I sure thought it had one when I ordered it. I thought I was screwed cause I have lots of threading projects I want to do. The Chinese manual says to leave the screw ingaged and reverse it but I don't like to do that. I'm going to try your method. Sure glad you made the video. Thanks.
Donald
Finally---something that works. I've tried a hundred times using different 'methods' found on the internet video's---but never, NEVER, was able to get my thread on a single track---Until now. THANK YOU Nasedo 375----Your instruction is worth it's weight in gold! Thank You---thank you----THANK YOU!
Seems like the help offered on youtube by true people sharing information and not trying to sell it is a great thing. Thanks for another way to solve a problem.
This is brilliant. If you own an old or used lathe, the threading dial is probably long gone and a replacement is difficult to find and expensive. I've been threading by using a reversing motor and driving the carriage back using the half-nuts. Can't wait to try this out!
Great Tip! and well filmed and explained. Not a method I have seen before but will use in the future. Thanks a million.
Steve, Kent, England
I found this one of the best videos I ever seen thanks
You're a great instructor! Not everyone who does so, does it well. I have an old Dalton Six type B-4, made in 1918, and this is exactly how it's done, except I have to manually swap out gears.
Thanks man. I have a 1940s south bend 9A without a thread dial, and I've been wondering about threading. Off to the shop to try this out!
I like the technique. Even though I have a threading dial on all my lathes, I am going to give it a try. Thanks for making the video.
GREAT video. Excellent quality, your explanation are simple but just what one needs to know. I am a beginner in this, and I understood everything you said. Obviously you have quite a bit of experience doing this. Thanks for taking the time to share it.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing this method. My '46 South Bend C is about as basic as it gets, and this is the way.
I have an old southbend without a threading dial. Your video is a great help. Thank you
Marking the spindle and leadscrew with a sharpie is genius. It visualizes the fact that they meet up on the same point after a defined number of revolutions.
Fantastic video and explanation of the process.
I was thinking of ways to make a cheap thread dial, when I saw your video.
Problem solved. Thank You so much for sharing this.
There's a lot of crap on youtube; and you would have to look far and wide to find someone to dispute that, but when it comes to quality you're up there with the best of them. Well done!
Thank you, this is really helpful. I have a very old lathe with no threading dial and i find threading to be slow and stressful. This is going to help a lot.
Very nicely done, so simple yet so effective.
Well done champ :)
This is great thank you. I have a Metric Boxford BUD and trying to find a metric dial indicator for it is near impossible so knowing how to do this without the dial gauge is invaluable.
I had been looking for a tutorial like this, thank you so much for sharing.
Thanks! Just finished repairing a Sheldon with no dial and needed to learn to work without one.
Pretty cool trick. Pretty nice old lathe too!
Great teaching video, straightforward, no gimmicks. good teaching skill.
thank you very much for your time and trouble, as soon as I get my little lathe up and running, I will try this great method.
Colin UK.
I'm going to have to try this on my cheapo Chinese bench top lathe.
My little bench top lathe does have a threading dial but, every time I've used that threading dial I've ended up with a cross-thread. No matter how slow the spindle is turning or how meticulous I am about taking the slack out of the lead screw, I always get the dreaded cross-threading.
Great video for all that are missing the thread dial :) Thank's !
Thank you. Thankyou, thankyou, thankyou! Fucking THANK YOU! :)
I bought a 72 year old Myford MF74 (a rare old girl) and it has no TDI and little chance of finding one. Today, Thanks to You, I cut my first ever Thread - 3/8 x 20TPI. It's a bit rough if I'm honest with myself but it's a Thread and it works.
Once more, Thank You xXx
LOL You are very welcome, you made my day... three months later.
You're welcome. It's always nice to make a "pretty" thread, but as long as it works... good show.
Thanks a bunch - I have a Daewoo 20 x 60 with the leadscrew being a ballscrew and no thread dial. I can now use this technique for the balance of threads where you need to leave the half nut engaged.
The Gods Right-Hand Man
I think you done a very good job with this video, not easy holding a camera in one hand, while operating a lathe with the other.. and watching it dont crash !!
Nice! I "knew" this could be done. Good to see a clear demo.
I was wondering if there isn't another way to cut threads without a dial my machine does not have one I'm so glad I ran across this video thanks a lot
I have an old R. McDougall lathe that is missing its threading dial so I'll be using this method. Thanks for sharing and all the best.
Thanks for posting this. I just got a 16 with a missing thread dial and Google led me right to you!
Interesting technique. Normally I cut thread without disengaging the half-nuts, but If I ever need to thread a long piece I hope I remember this. Thanks for showing.
Very logical, very simple method! Thank you very much!!!
Thank you very much, I have just tried it but im still not sure about me cutting the thread because I have little space to disengage and go back. Also the thread needs to be cut into a very hard material and my tool is already dull, need to resharpen it. But I thank you very much.
Hi Mr. Nasedo. From a half a world away thanks for the great video.
This should come in handy on my old South Bend 7.5" lathe
that doesn't have a threading dial.
The few threads that I've cut I just backed out and reversed the motor next
time I cut a thread I'll try this . >Joe Baltimore MD. USA.
I have a very similar South Bend 13 x 40 lathe from 1923. Very cool. This method works really well.
Nice approach. I haven't seen this before. I too don't have a threading dial at the moment
Gday, great demonstration and it works great, thanks for sharing, cheers Matty
if youre using the modified flank infeed method your compound should be in the opposite. direction, this current setup is correct for external right hand threading.
Just found your channel and subscribed. Very nice work. Thanks
Nice video...li just bought an old logan 200 lathe that was missing thread dial....your technique appears to work and is free lol
I figured this method out on my own with a *lot* of trial and error; I certainly could have used this tutorial a couple of years ago! My 1910 Seneca Falls Star lathe has a weird 9tpi lead screw, so my only option is to use these reference marks to make a thread.
Great find, I am making a 1 1/2 - 8 spindle guard at the moment for a 10" Atlas. Good video to take the mystery out of threading.
Thanks for the tip. I have a very old Hendey cone head lathe with out a thread dial.
Though I can reverse the apron without disengaging the half nuts the marks can be used for reference.
George
I can't wait to try this technique. Thanks for sharing, and the process seems intuitive.
Great instructional video. Really clear. I'm going to try that next time. Could be easier than trying to read the thread dial.
Is it possible to do finer threads ---in the 28-36 tpi using this method?
Very inventive though, even if only rough threads (NPI?) can be done. Thx for simplifying what most have said in discouraging the use of a lathe to make threads, in favor of a boring bar.
Just what I've been looking for thank I'm going to try it on my colchester lathe from 1918-1919
I would find a half nut attachment for the lathe. They are out there at a reasonable price. I would think that any lathe with a quick change gear box, should have come with one or at least mounting holes for it.
Great video! The special boring bar tool holder/ tool post you made looks great too, very sturdy. I suppose two of the hexagon head screws are for rotational alignment of the tool, indexing on a flat? They might be fighting the clamping action of the whole block, or do you back them off before final tightening?
Oh the good old days, that's the way an old friend of mine was taught back in the late 1940's, he was always going on about using chalk marks when threading. Guess they didn't have Sharpies back then.
A positive stop on back side for carriage may help so wipers do not remove your marks.
Pretty smart idea.
Great idea! I enjoyed your video very much. I intend to do an internal thread pretty soon ant this will be a big help.
That atlas is a 6" with a quick change gearbox? I didn't know they made one!
This is a great tip you've come up with. Looks like it works perfectly.
Pretty cool idea! I think I seen another guy do this or use this method he had digital read outs that's all he used its the same idea as yours I think? I know NOTHING about this stuff but I m going to defiantly watch and learn try and get started
this was very useful i have a hendey lathe and no threading dial. thanks for the tip
Wow - that car seems very close to your lathe.
Thank you, i will be trying this on my sb 15" O this weekend. Looks like yours may be an o series also?
Great info but question from a rookie . .. why did you use the compound at 29.5° angle to increase thread depth each pass and not just use the cross slide?
I guess the thread is a 60 degree 'groove'. Why is the tool holder slide (whatever it's called) set at 29 1/2 degrees and not 30? You might have guessed I'm a greenhorn!
I am new to machining. What do you call the type of tool holder you have that holds a round cutter. I am only familiar with the one that holds square tooling. Thanks'
how do you return the carriage manually .l return the carriage by reverse the chuck moment coulx you learn me please I will be thank for you
Would it not be possible to fabricate a thread dial and install it on your lathe? Perhaps a future video?
Yeah that would be a good one, but I need to make a part to let me thread a 14 inch faceplate, make a riser block to fit a 13 inch SB tailstock to my 16 inch SB, and a BUNCH of other stuff involving not just machining. I hope to be in a "FREE" environment and making some videos by Summer. I hear the middle class are leaving the Globalist Republic of Kalifornica in droves...and taking their money with them.
Thanks very much for that , the gear that runs on my lead screw is missing out of thread dial on my ss1000 lathe and i cant get any one who is prepared to make one .
But at least i can do some threading now .
Cheers ..............:)
other thing I forgot to mention in this side of world we use European lathes with clutch since we mesh the threading lever we don't loosen it till finished the threading operation so no need for threading chase dial.
Very instructive! What is the I.D. on the workpiece for the 1 1/2" 8 tpi threads? Thanks.
Hmmm...I was trying to set the compound so that the tool would be advanced into the leading edge of the thread. I will look up the modified flank infeed method.
HOW TIGHT IS THE CAP SHOULD BE. IS THEIR A SPEC. ON THAT??
excellent work I was looking for a video like this one because my lathe is a Logan 9B and it docent have tread dialer to so it those help me that video thanks body
For an internal thread the cross feed goes at 29.5 deg in the opposite direction as an external thread?
Great video!
Is there any way you can use a setup like this to cut metric threads since the thread dial can't be used?
Hey, Larry! This technique should work for any type of thread. Since it is really doing what the thread dial is usually telling you (that the headstock, leadscrew, and carriage are all aligned relative to one another), the type of thread should not matter in the least. Give it a try and let us all know.
Great video! I was just about to do my face plate M34 DIN 800 thread and this video was just what i needed. Thanks!
Gosh... I wish I had some of the old time training.
Brilliant, excellent video, thanks
Big thank you from me too! I'll be testing / using this method on my Southbend 9" to cut some big internal 16TPI threads.
the multiple rule is any multiple of the lead screw will drop it in the same spot, where ever you drop the 1/2 nut. The only thing you need to worry about is taking the slop out. You dont need any marks. If the feed is set to 8 tpi with an 8 tpi lead screw, I dont think its possible to miss 8 tpi?
My lead screw is 6 TPI, how does that work? I guess I have to check it out, once I finish the job in the chuck. It's been there for two years, or so. Stuff has been going on.... sigh...
I wanna talk about compound angle as for metric it is really 29.5 cuz metric thread angle is 60 so half of that less a little is okay but imperial is different angle it is 55 degrees half of it is 27. so the compound with imperial should be 27 degrees. i tried that and it is gave me good result.thanks for sharing this video.
It should work on any thread your lathe will cut. Take a test cut to verify. You should do that anyway to make sure you are cutting the right thread.
I assume you in New South Wales bordering the Pacific Ocean; since there's no such place as New West Wales. New South Wales is where Sydney is located, so if that sounds familiar, that's where you are.
Very interesting. I will write a procedure for myself so I don't miss any steps in my shop log. This will enable a quick reference check. The great thing about my shop log is I also cross reference the video to the log if I need to review something. Can't wait to try this out as I have to build and adapter for my wood lathe for my Nova chuck. This will be a good metal lathe project to learn on while justifying the metal lathe cost to my beautiful project supervisor (e.g. Honey, guess how much I saved by making my own chuck adapter for my wood lathe!!! No, it didn't cost anything as I already had the correct tools for the job! LOL) Many thanks.
Great video. You just saved me $125 on a threading dial
Thanks for the video, it has given me some confidence as i don't have a reversing switch or a thread dial. When backing out of the piece with the cross slide the returning to zero ready for putting on the next cut with the compound, what effect does backlash in the cross slide screw have? [I have a LOT of backlash]. Thanks
does this method apply to uneven threads per inch or only to even threads? can you cut 13 threads/ inch or only e,g 8 threads/ inch?
NEW WEST WALES is what I call the land bordering the Pacific ocean from Mexico in the south to Oregon in the north. Technically it doesn't exist, but it should. I live in a country founded by English colonists, and established on ideals espoused by John Locke and others. I am of English/Welsh descent and I feel my country and myself have everything in common with Great Britain... everything but the language. God save the Queen and keep the Constitution of these United States safe.
Forgot to ask how you made the steel cutter. Did you weld carbide bits to the center, 180 degrees apart?
No the Atlas is a 12 inch with 24 inches between centers. As far as I know all the 6 inch Atlas/Craftsman metal lathes were made with a standard gear box.
just curious but arent you moving the tool forward when you bring the compound in ? its at an angle so theres a translation taking place or a vector velocity if you will
Late reply, but when you move the compound you are moving it at the angle of the thread. This places the cutting forces on the front face of the tool rather than splitting it between both faces.
The tool is moving into the work piece at an angle that matches the back of the resulting cut like a chisel cutting forward and down rather than trying to plunge straight down into the work.
Otherwise it wouldn't matter what angle you set the compound slide at so long as the form tool was at the correct angle.
For acme threads this is even more important because you would have 3 cutting surfaces rather than 2, doing it this way would reduce that to 2 surfaces like it reduces the 2 surfaces of a typical thread to one.
If you mean you got a South Bend 16 inch lathe, then you probably have learned many were not even drilled and tapped for the thread dial. Threading dials were optional. Was your lathe drilled and tapped?
How about External Threads??
Can they be done the same method?
This was a great Video. I am starting to learn on a metal lathe I am a wood worker but need to do more with metal for my gun business . I am getting started with a Harbor freight 7 x 12 I looked at an Atlas th42 but it does not have the adjustable gears so dont know for $ 650 if its worth it .
So the Atlas TH42 was missing the change gears? That's not good. I paid $500.00 for an Atlas lathe with quick change gear box and Atlas metal floor stand. I would hold out for a later Atlas/Craftsman with the Timken roller bearings and a 1/2 inch thick bed ways. The older ones were 3/8 inch thick. Or you might try to find a 6 inch Atlas with 18 inches between centers. I am working on a video on "How to buy a used lathe," but there is a lot of work to do. :)
THE ATLAS, then put a cnc stepper drive synced to your spindle running the lead screw and you can very accurately cut ANY thread you want. Guns are notorious for having their own threads so even having change gears or metric gears won't help, cnc is the fix.
I recently picked up an Sears 12 x 36 Commercial with QCGB and TDI, looks similar to your Atlas. Mine is the under drive cabinet with chip pan, 1/2" ways...1970ish.
Great idea - way to go for me! BTW, you sound very much like Kevin Costner.
Nice video. I've never worked on a lathe, so it's still unclear how to set the machine up to cut various sized threads.
great video
awesome teaching. Very clear and helpful. Thank you !!
HelloNasedo375
nice video,thanks for sharing,'you
Thanks for that. Will try it on my Myford ML2.
We have a lathe from the early 20s. No dial. Flat belt driven. Works great.
I'm still wondering how they did it back then with no dial. For sure they didn't do it this way all the time.
I think they backed out the tool bit reversed the lathe and went back to the start, deepened the cut and made another pass. I don't know for sure, but maybe they did it that way. Someone else said an old timer talked about "Making the chalk marks." Maybe they did do it with the marks?? Anybody out there know?
jesse foulk No this is the standard way everyone used to do it. Backing the lathe up is a very slow and poor beginners method.
Well then....we'll have to give more appreciation for how we do it now. Or rather by CNC
I think you re right about backing the feed without disengaging the thread lever, but not sure. ?? Still thanks for the video.
Would this work cutting a metric thread with an imperial lead screw.
Yes it should, just try it with small cuts.
Nice, exactly what I needed!