My Journey With Volume - November 2023
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- Опубліковано 15 вер 2024
- From the beginning till now, my journey with volume and how important it has become to me.
#surfboardvolume #bearsurfboards #primalsurfboards #lostsurfboards #lostspeeddemon2 #pyzel #pyzelsurfboards,#pyzelpyzalien #pyzelphantom #pyzelshadow #pyzelshadowxl #pyzelghost #pyzelghostxl
Kia ora Tui. I’ve found this and your ‘Age+Ailment+Surfing’ video very insightful. I truely can draw a parallel in my own surfing journey with your analysis of varying aspects regarding wave type, board dimensions/characteristics, and personal preferences. I too have had to adapt my board choices and in some cases, the way I ride waves whilst carrying old injuries and new ones that seem to pop up while aging. You have really highlighted to me the importance of tuning in on one’s own surfing requirements, and adapting to these accordingly, to prolong one’s enjoyment of surfing into the later years. Ngā mihi.
I'm glad that you've found them useful. Life and surfing are very individual and we all have to find our own ways to deal with them. I'm thankful that I'm still in reasonably good shape to surf despite my various physical issues, so I'm trying to make the most of it while I still can. More than anything, getting out regularly has been key for me, as in a couple of times a week at least if possible. My father used to make delicious fry bread. :-) Ngā mihi.
Now the way you describe your experience with the Pyzalien, is exactly how I describe how I felt when I bought my Phantom 😂
Maybe the Shadow might be for you, too. I sold my old one and am awaiting the arrival of my new one.
Cool video mate. Well put together to.
Thanks 👍
Hiya, found this really interesting. I have followed a broadly similar path. I saw from the comments that you are around 83-84 kg (similar to me). Just wondering how old you are? I'm in my early 60s, and I don't surf as often as you so my surf fitness is lower than I'd like it to be. I'm riding a 6'8" DHD Interceptor which is 42L, and do feel like I need that volume.
Glad it was interesting. I'm 65. Have since lost a little weight as I'm surfing as much as possible before my Fiji trip next month. Volume certainly is your friend, especially in bigger waves.
@@tui_ruwhiu_wavecomms I look forward to hearing about your Fiji trip in a future post.
Thanks, a lot of interesting info in the video. In regards to your volume range it would be useful to know your weight?
I range between 83 and 85kgs (183 - 187lbs) depending on how much I eat and drink. :-) And I'm 180cm (5'10").
I've just dropped a follow-up video to My Journey With Volume video. You might be interested.
@@tui_ruwhiu_wavecomms Thanks that is useful to know
@@tui_ruwhiu_wavecomms Thanks will check out the new video
Really helpful, same haight and Wright, shorter on skills and age. But as far as the use of the boards, great comments. Thanks
Hey man, just found your channel and really appreciate your videos. Could you share your dimensions? Height weight etc? Also, I would love to see some videos of you surfing. Great content, really appreciate it
Thanks. I’m 5’10” and 84kgs 185lbs. I’d love to see videos of me surfing too. Only have my GoPro POVs. Unfortunately don’t have anybody to take them. 😊
My brother Len surfs Raglan also an old goat but still surfs well
I'll look out for him.
Hey Tui, love the series. I’ve been looking at the same boards as you, not because of age but lack of skills haha
I have been riding a RNF96 EPS/Epoxy in 5’10 (35L) for smaller days and a SharpEye Inferno72 PU 6’3 (35L). I want to replace the SharpEye for bigger/better/hollower days. I was thinking of a Ghost XL 6’2 (34L). I’ve seen you’ve been riding both the ghost and the shadow. Do you think the ghost can still work in smaller waves ? Overhead to + ? Have a great day 🤙
I ride my 6'4 Ghost strictly as a step up for 6' and up waves. I know a number of people who have shorter ghosts, usually less than 6' with the volume to match who have been happy with them in the wave range you are after a board for. I think there are a number of choices now for you and the ghost you've selected is one as it sits around the volume you seem to like. Hope you find the board you want.
great vid! Whats your weight?
Thanks. 83 - 85kgs (182 - 187lbs) depending on how much I've eaten and drunk. :-)
Thanks!
Did you end up liking the RNF96 over the Mashup for 2-4ft? @@tui_ruwhiu_wavecomms
Volume is a good proxy or starting point for overall dims, but people focus too much on it. Depending on the amount of nose rocker and how much foam is under the chest you can easily have a board paddle the same as one with 2-4 more liters of volume assuming that second board paddles poorly for the opposite reason. Also, once up and riding at planing speeds, bouyancy is not a factor, you can ride alaia boards for example. Its better for any model to first figure out your ideal length, then width, and use thickness to get your volume. Dont just size everything up or down for volume. Your ghost for example looks huge for what its deigned for.
I get what you're saying. The 5'9" Seaside Helium certainly paddled a lot easier at 37.3l vs the 6'2"Shadow XL PU at 36.8l--only 0.4l of difference. But I wouldn't ride the Seaside at 6' Raglan Outside Indicators and I would the Shadow XL. The Ghost as mentioned is for bigger days when I need a step-up to get into waves earlier and it does that for me. I'm not as strong or as fit as I was 30 years ago so I've found I need volume to be the key dimension for me to play with so far, and length. At 83 - 85kgs and at my age I don't see myself surfing boards shorter than 6' while still seeking the performance I want from a board.
@@tui_ruwhiu_wavecommsas long as you’re doing what you love keep it up. I surfed from a little kid till about 25 and moved to Washington DC and was to focused on work so I haven’t surfed for about 18 years. I am living in Florida now and trying to get back in it. I am definitely not as fit or nimble as I used to be. I bought a fish style board and have been giving it a go. I think I need to get a little bigger of a board till I get back into surfing shape.
@@EMan-cu5zo good on you for getting back into it. Isn’t easy to do.
I'm in the same search, I have boards between 5.10 and 6.0 with 34-36 L. I weigh 82 kg. One problem is that I fall a lot in the tighter round houses. I also have a 6.08 33L that I can maneuver normally but I have less stroke. I'm thinking about buying a board with 34-36 L but at 6.6 I think I'll stick with the same stroke and with a more maneuverable board. Same volume plus length thinner rails I can curve better. I'm talking about more performance boards. What do you think?
Everybody's ability and desire for what they want out of a board is different. That's the great thing about surfing-it's a personal journey, but of course you get to share the waves with friends and strangers. I have kept experimenting with dimensions and board shapes while trying to keep the volume consistent, primarily because of my age and fitness. It's worked for me as I now have various boards that I like to surf on and I can still paddle into waves reasonably easily. What I found though is that I needed to come down in length to get the manueverability I wanted. Seem you might be in the same space, seeking more performance boards than cruisers, which is where I am at the moment.
@@tui_ruwhiu_wavecommsThank for your reply. I total agree with you! I try also to mantain the volume, i think in my quiver i need something with a little more length. My reasoning is that, if i increase the length i am gona have less width and thickness and i am gonna be abble to dig the rails and to complete certain manouvers.
@@tiagocarvalho983 I think that's essentially true when you've got bigger waves, but for me I need a shorter board for the maneuvers I want to complete in smaller waves. However, I have been following for some time the development of high-performance mid-lengths and watching guys in the surf with them. They can give you both volume for easy wave catching and maneuverability. And the wave count is way up. At some point, I will likely try one.
@@tui_ruwhiu_wavecomms I agree with you in little waves a shorter board is more maneuverable. I've also been noticing the mid length ones, Chilli mid strength is one I've been keeping an eye on. Full Strength will now come out, which is a variation of Mid strength, which is a mid-length performance. It's not on the website yet but you can order now.
What fins did you run in the black vulture 2 ?
Futures Honeycomb 2 + 1 FT1. They were perfect. www.undergroundsurf.co.nz/product/33399/futures-honeycomb-twin-1-fin-set-ft1/72116?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7b3uvqywhAMVFl8PAh2CbgQyEAQYFSABEgJVBPD_BwE
Idk man. I make my Seaside go vertical in surf well over head no problem. No one should be on a 5’9 Seaside. It was designed as like a 5’2, and despite people believing all models scale up, they don’t. Not all the way to 5’9 they don’t. I had a 5’7 Seaside and it was too big and I didn’t know it for two years until I went an inch smaller and it went vertical piece of cake. What I’m hearing so far is that you’re riding boards that are too big, not in liters necessarily but in scale. All those Pyzel models, especially the Alien are made to be ridden in sizes under 6’0. And it’s not the board’s liters making it go straight, it’s the fin and bottom concave and rocker combos. If you have a lot of rocker you need raked fins. If the board is flat you need a more upright fin. The other thing I find hard to understand is why buy 5 pyzels if you didn’t like them? Frankly, you look like you’d be better served on the swallow tail side of things or something groveler performance. I weigh 170lbs and ride Seaside in 5’6 but probably could yet drop another inch at certain breaks that have less currents to contend with. And my 5’6 has surf in knee high to close to 20’ faces here in Hawaii. It even works lovely in slabs that are back sucking. My liter at 170lbs and 5’11” tall is 31-33L. I had a buddy here that insisted on Pyzel too, after I convinced him to get a Lost, he sold all his Pyzels. If you get your liters right you pretty much can’t go wrong with any Lost or FireWire boards I’ve found. Firewires last 2 years minimum and don’t ding. Lost boards ding up every other surf sadly.
Thanks for the feedback and info. Envy you living in Hawaii and surfing with that power. Was just the Pyzel Pyzalien and Phantom I didn't like. Very happy with my Pyzel Shadow and Ghost. I replaced my Chilli BV2 with a Lost RNF96 and very happy with that in small waves. You are obviously a much better surfer than me riding the boards you do in the way that you surf them, although we are a similar size. I can't see myself riding boards in the 5' range, though. The Lost is 6' and the next Pyzel I've got coming is 6', too.
@@tui_ruwhiu_wavecomms yeah, I didn’t factor in power possibly to offset liters… hmm. RNf 96 is another brilliant board. I have 3. I have the 5’8 in two constructions and a 5’7. It’s as good as any board gets in all conditions. Last time I rode it I had wrong fins and it was double over head. I was experimenting at wrong time. With regard to power, if your waves aren’t as powerful ride large fins with a large base, always in all conditions. I ride them in all conditions no matter what. Not cause I push hard, because they create tail lift without sacrificing hold. You might be able to dump a liter if you have a fin with large base as it creates lift and acceleration in your tail. As for Pyzel, all I hear is people complaining about them. I see guys waste money on this or that model only to complain later. But I’ve never heard a complaint about a lost board ever. And FireWire seems to be the most solid board on the market. Since it’s more topical because it’s construction you can also size down in liters cause it’s gonna be more topical than a PU, and less chattery than a glassed EPS. I don’t know I’m better than you man, surfing is a lot of knowing what works and what doesn’t for each spot. And then there’s lots of general rules, like upright vs raked fins being rocker dependent. But I think your issue is mostly mental, with regard to going shorter. I know back in the day a shortboard for me was a 6’3. I haven’t ridden anything over 5’8” in over two years. My go to is 5’6” Seaside model, and I took it out in 5’ Hawaiian with 10’ Hawaiian slab doubles on the inside. It ran like a beauty. Guys couldn’t believe I was on it, but my break sucks back and gets slabby and it almost makes it easy because you have to get in at the bottom of the curl every time, thus it almost doesn’t matter how big it is standing up behind you cause all your focus is on the bottom entry of the wave. But, at mellow breaks you can roll in nice off the top too, and if it wants to pitch, set your takeoff line at a 45 last minute and you sorta cancel it’s flatness with a 45 chip in on the bend of the lip where it’s throwing. I always find the flat entry for it then roll in my bottom turn rather than come in straight setting up the bottom turn dropping in straight. Makes a huge difference. But my point is, once you change your mindset about how you paddle in, actually the shorter board is way better. It fits in anything. The tail on the Seaside is also super high performance.
Lots of really good thoughts here for me to consider. Thanks.
Far to much onus on litreage all those boards have different aspect to thier shape and therefore surf different. I say go to a local shaper you will always get your best results that way plus you support the locals. And they know your local breaks.
Thanks for the thoughts. Yes, you are right. There is an emphasis on volume and each of those boards does surf differently because of their dimensions and shape, and they are suited to different conditions. Across the varying breaks I surf though from beach to bar to point to reef break, consistent volume has been important for me. I’ve now got three boards with essentially the same volume that I like that work in the way I want them to in varying conditions. I’d need a couple of shapers in different places to try and get the same thing and find it easier to read, listen and watch reviews and listen to shapers talking online to help me make decisions about which way to go-decisions I’ve gotten right sometimes and not others.
Why don’t all the shapers collaborate and lie about the volume of there boards and then let these blokes ramble on and on about the volume (ours go to 11). Then maybe people would realize it doesn’t matter that much?? 🤷🏾♀️😜