Mate, after being a handyman for 11 years I became a carpenter after getting my skills assessed, realised that I have few holes in my knowledge with regards to home building. Just want to send you a massive thanks for your videos as they are exactly what I need to educate myself to get my knowledge and confidence up. At the moment I am going through each one of your videos and they are just awesome!!. Thanks again mate. wish you the best with your channel.
Just wanted to comment how amazingly helpful your videos are. An absolute treasure trove for us DIYers to build correctly and easily. Thank you very much!!
Thx, My 12x 24' garage had a leaking flat roof. It now has a Shed type/Skillion thx to your video and many other youtubers. I went with a galvanized metal roof with 5 windows across the jack wall. It took me a month to finish and I am very happy with the results.
Mate - I am just building a little place in NZ, you sound just like my mate in Katherine NT. Your videos are very good! Set my profiles/hurdles out yesterday. My mate over here said don't bring your aussie slang over here! Thanks again
This book was a great resource for ideas, practical advice ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx-b91_bYU48sOwHX-XC49tRRXRxcnOmZm and pro tips I purchased the plans for the 10'x16' colonial and used them for the basics and made my own modifications. I built my shed for storage and lawn equipment, but decided to sheath and side it in case I ever wanted to add insulation and turn it into a shop or bunkhouse. I poured over this book all winter while I planned and found it to be the all-around best shed book out there.
A variation on the ceiling would be a "vaulted ceiling" giving quite a bit more perceived space on the inside. That would require *not* using the horizontal beams shown at 3:00 in the video and just drywalling the interior (underside) of the roof directly. How much structural loss (if any) would need to be compensated to allow a vaulted ceiling without those horizontal beams?
Hi Mate, if you are going to maintain the flat style roof then there is not much of an issue however if you are going to vault a pitched roof, i.e one with a ridge, then you would need to consider this problem.
I love your channel and I have been following it for quote a long time. I make similar, but different videos in New Zealand. I hope you start uploading videos again as they are really helpful!
@@Buildsum It is 3dmaker223. I really liked your videos of how to set up a building site. I think that one can continue to show how a whole building can be built. I think it is very useful for apprentices. I am a designer myself, but my target clients are DIY builders for small cabins exempted from the building consent. in NZ you can now build up to 30sqm without a need for a building permit. Also, you do not have to be lbp registered to build it. So, there are a lot of people who want to build, but do not know how. Also, they do not understand all building terms. I noticed some of the terms are a little different between NZ and AU. But they are mostly the same.
Awesome video. Simple yet thoroughly spelled out. I’m building my first rough cabin, a 12’ x 20’ and am wondering if I can run a 4x4 across the midpoint overlapping the side walls as the sill of constructing two rooflines, one sloping towards the front and the other towards the back and lay in a couple supports on the inside below the 4x4 rather than a full wall as your video shows? Much thanks.
Hi Mate, sure you can build up the centre and have essentually a skillion of both sides however that is just basically a Gable roof and you could save yourself some materials if you built it as a Gable.
@@Buildsum yes I can totally see that now. I built the “box” and laid across the frame. My initial plan was to put clerestory windows, but I ended up with enough windows below, not to mention the crazy high cost of windows these days. Yikes. I Couldn’t have done it without your videos. Well, would have been harder. Thanks.
This has helped me no end in prepping to renovate my shed into an office. I have a concrete block structure which I am going to build a skillion roof on!! Thank you :)
Mate, loved this video on the skillion roof. Can you point me to a video that covers installation of metal roofing sheets and gutters onto the skillion roof?
How do you insulate the roof on a skillion design? Since there is no ridge, as in a roof with a gable, there is no ridge vent. Are there no vents installed on the lower or upper sections of the roof, and if that's the case, does insulation take up the entire thickness/height of the rafters/joists? My roof doesn't have a ceiling frame, as the roof is the ceiling. To have additional natural lighting, I have casement windows in the raised area, so I can't install a ceiling frame. Thank you.
I'm trying to locate the video you mentioned in regards to how to calculate length of each gable stud. Could point me to the video that you a re referring to? I can't seem to find it on your channel. Many thanks :)
Thank you for great video explanation. In your example you is using jack wall, but was telling that it's better to build higher wall. But how in this case you will build the ceiling? You don't have horizontal top plate Thank you
If you had a 30' endwall, and a 40' length, what kind of lumber and support could you do that would support everything? I was thinking of maybe using a glulam or multiple 40' LVLs as the "strongback", or central beam, and then having some 20' 2x12 rafters that would lap and break over the glulam/LVLs and have bearing pressure down on top of it. Is there an easier way or would it be better to do a steel I beam? Or am I way off in what could be supported by a single 40' beam at 15' from the walls? Thanks
Hi Mate, it sounds like it should work you just have to make sure that the timber or steel you are using is rated to span that distance with that load.
Hey would you ever use trimmers in between your rafters to stop rafters rolling over? Are the battens and facia and like Tripple grips normally enough?
Thanks for this video. I'm built a huge dog house 8' X 8' (for 3 doberman pinschers), with a gate door for an auto food feeder, and a frame for a window air conditioner (the mosquitos are brutal here and the cold keeps them away). I set the dog house next to the house and I will match the slope angle of the house roof to the dog house. I will use your design for the dog house roof.
@Buildsum thanks for another good video. Is it possible to build it so that the rafters is turned 90 degrees, so the gable stud wall carries the weight? I ask because I have a lot of rafters not long enough for my roof project. but I have a bearing wall coming down the middle so I could join them over that wall if it is possible to turn the rafters 90 degress. What is the best way to join them?
Hi Troels, yes you could, they would technically be purlins rather than rafters but it would work. The other thing that you could do is to put a beam in under the middle of the rafters to support the join in the rafters. The best way to join them is to run them past each other and nail them together however on the outside rafters you would have to butt them together and place a block behind the join to nail to. This is similar to how you join Bearers and Joists as shown in this video. ua-cam.com/video/hkw9WT5B7h0/v-deo.html Hope this helps
Hi Micheal, It's not the length that you need to worry about so much as the distance that they can span. If you want to have a flat roof that is longer than the span of the timber you will need to install a beam that runs at 90 degrees to the rafters. This beam will obviously have to span further than the rafters so may need to be a deeper member or even a steel beam. Another alternative might be to use parallel trusses however they will need to be designed and constructed by a truss manufacturer. Another option would be to use a pitched roof instead. Hope this helps
Hi TomatoPasteHamstring Structurally there is no need to have the Ceiling Frame at all, raked ceilings are probably more popular than a level ceiling. The loft idea sounds great, good luck with you shed. Buildsum
Your videos are invaluable in helping me build a back yard cottage/workshop that is permitted and legal. Do you have a video that shows the full skillion height framing method vs jack studs on top plate . You mentioned that is preferable but I am not quite sure how it works without seeing it. I guess I also want an open ceiling vs flat ceiling, possibly so I can put small loft style shelf in the upper area.
Hi Mate I'm glad you like the videos help Unfortunately I dont have a video like the one you asked for however all I am saying is that it is better to construct your two walls at different heights if you have the opportunity rater than having to extend one.
Hi Carlos, you could do it by just building the walls all the way up to start with and then putting the rafters inside that or do the roof first and then add short walls to extend above.
@@Buildsumthanks for the quick response, i've never built anything of this size but right now all the local contractors are charging an arm and leg. Prices are crazy cause of lumber spike, but for some reason the labor went up also, very high I may say. I hope you can do a video on it on the near future. thanks Buildsum
I'm wanting to bring the studs on the high side up to roof height and avoid a jack wall but a I want a flat ceiling inside. Would I notch into the studs to create a horizontal surface for the ceiling joists?
Is a ceiling frame necessary for a skillion roof or can the ceiling be left open? I am building the same kind of roof except with an additional roof on the other side. My other question is: Can I put on the roof sheathing and metal sheeting up BEFORE attaching the wall sheathing below? The reason i ask is that I started adding osb sheathing to one of the roofs and when I got up there noticed the structure as a whole sways some. I’m thinking the wall sheathing will tighten it up? I opted to put up the roof first because we get a lot of rain where I live and figure the roof will add some protection to my subfloor which is also osb and the water manages to get through the plastic. Much thanks.
Hi Mate, absolutely no need for the ceiling. Where I'm from it is common practice to get the roof on ASAP and then go back and do the walls, etc. That said the walls should be adequately braced so they don't move before you get on the roof.
If you were to build one wall higher than the rest what is the best way of connecting that wall with the rest of the other walls? Because I built a garage once with all walls same height and double top plated to join them but I'm currently building another shed with skillion roof and coz of one side being higher I can't double top plate that wall to the lower height walls, so how could I join them? Thanks.
Hi Mate, you just need to use a connector like a Multi grip or a Triple grip from the lower top plate to the higher wall. www.bunnings.com.au/pryda-multigrip-100-x-35mm_p1072509 Hope this helps
Thanks for all the great videos. Do you need battens under corrugated roofing on a skillion roof if the rafters are running across the pitch, on top of a raked top plate and spaced within what would be specified for the battens (ie. 900mm)?
Hi Brett, in this case the rafters, as you call them, would technically be Purlins and yes, they can go across the pitch as you describe. I generally try to keep my battern spacing under 1m however im pretty sure you can go as much as 1.1m with corrigated iron. It is always best to read and follow the manufactures instructions so you dont void any warranty if you are using new materials. Hope this helps
As a novice, i took on a project to build a 12x16 shed/workshop up at my land 2 hours away from where i live. Using basic designs found online. Building the structure by myself wasnt too hard. However, having difficulties with buulding the open gable roof. So much so that i am now considering ditching the gable roof for a mono pitch like this skillion in your video. I guess my question to you or anyone here is.....it seems this mono pitch is much simpler and easier than a double pitch with this gable roof. Would that be an accurate assumption? My structure is level and square, but something seems off just looking at the 3 trusses i have put up so far. The only thing that i can come up with is that i may have shanked one of my cuts by 1/2 degree or so. On either the upper or lower cords. I dunno. I have been staying in a tent when i go up there to work and the weather turned down pretty big this last trip. Down to 16 degrees. So the enviroment plus doing the work by myself has me a bit worn out and probably prone to more mistakes.
Hi Mate, yes the mono pitch is certainly the easiet method. Gables aren't to hard really, have you seen this video. These videos may help ua-cam.com/video/iKyD4vR_6-M/v-deo.html&pp=gAQBiAQB Certainly sounds like tough conditions to be working in. Hope this helps
@@Buildsum turns out i did mess up a cut. Instead of 26.5 degrees for the 2 upper cords. I did 28. I didnt use my 1st as a template and just kept measuring each individually. Which of course had 1 or 2 trusses sitting higher than the original
AND STILL helpful. I believe you said to to just fill the holes between the outriggers with 2x6's (if that's what you are using for rafters) is there a standard for how often to place outriggers? Can I put them on 2ft centers and just fill the gaps with 2x6's?
Hi Hermon ( love the name) The link below is for a Jerkin Head roof however the calculation process is the same as what you are asking. ua-cam.com/video/McIttRIFtB4/v-deo.html Hope this helps
Nice vid on the subject... what is the longest run you could build this type of roof for? Considering building a 28x52, preferably with a few feet of overhand on the front and back. Also, is there a way to do it with no vertical support beams that go into the inside of the building itself (centerline of the building), as well as an open ceiling design?
Hi Mate, the longer the run the deeper and generally more expensive the timber required. You could put a beam under the join in the rafters to support them over long runs or if you want clear lines you can lift the beam up into the same plane as the rafters and butt the rafters into it with hangers to take the load. This beam would have to be pretty substantual to span the required distance so it is not uncommon to use steel I beams to do this. Hope this helps.
Hi I know. This video is for educational purposes. But I want to ask were could I get some one. To design something simple for me 30’x27’ detached garage with two single car garage doors and 1 regular door with a 2/12 pitch flat roof the city of Phoenix Arizona wanted me to get a structural engineer because the garage will be 15’ tall
Hi Chris, this is really up to you or the designer of the roof. As a rule the outrigger can't extend more that 1/3 the total length of the outrigger which is the standard rule for a counterlevered member. Some designs have the same over hang on the barge as they do on the eave and others have a smaller barge up to you really. Hope this helps.
Hi Matt, Yes the outriggers should use the 1/3 - 2/3 cantilever rule. This would mean that they would extend back to the second rafter and the first rafter would just be blocks between the rafters.
@@Buildsum Hey mate, In your reply above talking about cantilevering the outriggers and taking it back to the second rafter, do you mean the first rafter would be blocks between the 'outriggers' rather than rafters? Now thinking of the front and back walls and where the rafter sits on top, do you put blocks to plug the gaps between the rafters along the front and back walls?
Hi Jacqueline, beams get their strength from thier depth not their thickness so making them thicker wont help much with how far they can span, you could run a Purlin inline with the rafters however it would have to be able to span the length of the roof and carry the weight.
Thank for the video it was very informative. One question I have is how much further can the rafters over hang over the highest point of the roof, is there a maximum distance as am building this as a pool cabana and wanted more shade. Hope this question makes sense. Cheers
Hi Marcelo That depends on the size and therefore the span of the rafter in the first place. The span tables will specify a span and a counter lever for each rafter. This video may help. ua-cam.com/video/X7eG88FpLI0/v-deo.html
Any reason you would advise against using 200x45 i-joists for the rafters? I'm building a livable garden shed 3600x4800 and happen to have some ijoists on hand, planning a 1mtr overhang on the high side and 400mm on the back. 5mtr span in total.
I guess you would strap them to the top plate and fill in between with whatever. As an aside and this might change things. I've got hold of a load of second hand coolroom panels. 9off are 4200mm. The 20off others are 2700. I'm thinking this could be an interesting livable-shed build. Panels are painted metal both sides w/ 100mm polystyrene.
Hi, We're buliding a 16x20 cabin. It will have a loft on one half (8x16) with the other half being open to the space below. We are doing the skillion roof, but due to us being unsure of our roof choice when framing the walls, they are all 8ft. (One wall is not taller) SO we are going to have to build the jack wall on one 20' length to create the skillion roof. What are your tips for building it like this?? How do you make it more sturdy? There will be OSB on the outside and inside, thinking of adding some steel framing plates along the joint of the wall plate and bottom of the small wall. Thanks for your help!
Paul Reed Hi Paul If you can run the OSB full length that would be great otherwise make the join at the bottom and let the full sheet run over the join of the jack wall and the existing wall. That should make it strong enough. I don't think that the framing plates will be needed if you can do this.
Buildsum Thanks Buildsum! We were planning on doing just that, left the osb on the outside a couple feet from the top so we could go over that joint. Thanks for your advice, makes me feel better about the stability.
There are so many excellent videos you have shared. Thanks. One question as a novice builder I wanted to ask, if I want to put a flat ceiling in a skillion roof, how do I attach the ceiling joists to the highest wall frame if I dont use trusses and I extend the stud height as you suggest ? I’ll be working my way through your videos as time permits. Kind Regards
Hi Peter, thanks for your comments, I think the easiest way to install the ceiling Joists would be to set them on the Top Plate similar to the start of the video however if you don't think this is an option then I would attach a Plate, on edge, to the side of the studs at the height required and then attach the ceiling joists with joist hangers or similar. Hope this helps
Thanks for the video. What is the purpose of the "hanger"? Are the roof joists that are attached to the rafters on the short wall necessary? Is a vaulted ceiling possible?
Hi The hanger extends the span of the ceiling joists without protruding into the room. Ther is no problem at all with not having the ceiling frame, a vaulted ceiling is certainly possible.
I need some help with my current architecture project. I have decided to go for a Skillion/mono-pitch roof but I am totally unsure about the correct way that I would calculate the length of each rafter and the distance between etc. My roof is 9.6m x 8.1m and i have decided to go for a thin waterproof concrete. Any help would be helpful. Thanks
+Sam Robinson HI Sam Both these video show you how to calculate the length of a rafter for a pitched roof, for a skillion just change 1/2 Span to Span and it will work. ua-cam.com/video/kKkfIzqAj90/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/a0SS8lwqf7g/v-deo.html The distance in between is usually determined by the designed and the rafter sectional size determined from that. Hope this helps
Hi Daniel, It can however you would then need a support beam running across the middle of the room to support the ends of those Rafters. 6 metres is a fairly standard length there shouldn't be to much trouble finding material at this length.
Great video this is exactly what I was looking for. The only question I have is how do you connect the rafters to the walls? Do you need to come up from underneath or is toe nailing them in sturdy enough
really finding your videos helpful. i am planning to build a skillion roof timber shed with 5deg roof pitch. just wondering, you were saying it is better to build one wall a little bit taller, but in doing that, when I go to attach the double top plates to connect all 4 walls, 2 of the double tops wont be able to sit flat. is there a correct way around this? just one more thing, a bit off topic but do you need to use house wrap when putting up sheet metal wall siding if I batten the sheets off from the wall? if so, would i put the wrap directly over the plywood then battens over that for sheeting, or wrap over the battens then sheeting on top. thanks you mate.
Hi Alex If you build one wall taller and have two sloping walls you won't be able to overlap the top plates at the corners, this is OK you just need to use 100 x 50mm Gang-nail plates on top to hold the corners together As for the House wrap it works better if you can create an air gap between it and the Cladding so I would put it under the battens Thanks for your questions and feedback
I'm currently building a skillion roof shed/animal barn and having the same dilemna - build one wall taller and then try to join it without overlapping top-plates, or do the jack-wall method with overlapping double plates underneath. Wondering which method you ended up using and how it's been going?
im building a 40x30 shop and i want to use a sloped roof like this. what do i need to do about here becuase obviously you cant buy 2x6 boards that long. do you over lap to boards to get the length? i assume you would need a lot of over lap to keep in structurally sound. anybody ever have to do this?
Hi John, you will have to join the boards however they have to be joined on a support. You may be better off doing a low pitched roof so you can join them in the middle of the roof. Hope this helps.
@@Buildsum I was thinking that myself. I was going to go with a sloped roof because it's less material and easier to do by yourself. But if it won't fly with the inspector then it ain't going to work. I guess low pitch it is
wonderful. thank you for sharing your talent and knowledge! I'm doing my first one this week. and it's got me a little nervous. looks easy enough from the sketch. also, how can you calculate your roof pitch with this mono roof design. like I said I'm a new at this part of construction and contracting. this video really helped my visual. thanks again friend! -Dave
+David Paul Hi David Thanks for your comments. If you know the difference in height between the high side and the low side and the span of the rafter you can divide the height difference by the span of the rafter and multiply by inverse Tan e.g. if the difference in height is 0.577 mm and the span of the rafter was 3m then -Tan x (0.577 / 3) = 10.887 degrees say 11. If this doesn't answer your question you could look at these videos they are for a traditional pitched roof however you just need to substitute 1/2 Span for the Span of the Skillion ua-cam.com/video/a0SS8lwqf7g/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/kKkfIzqAj90/v-deo.html Hope this helps
So how far in do you place the first rafter in order to make room for the verge plate? I put my rafter on the outside edge now I have nothing to nail my siding to ie no verge plate and what are you using for a verge plate, a 2x4?
Hi, As the outriggers cantilever over the Verge plate the first rafter should be back 2 times the distance that the outrigger overhangs. For the Verge plate and the gable wall, I would just use the same material as used for the rest of the walls
@@Buildsum Just checking my understanding please, if my overhang is 600mm, then the first rafter begins 1.2m from the overhanging verge rafter? (Is that the outrigger?)
Hi Edvard, I'm not exactly sure what you are referring to by "diagonal rafter design" however depending on the design the ends of the rafters are usually covered with a Fascia or Barge board or just left as they are.
Buildsum I mean, how do they connect in the corners? From the top plate to the corner? Let's say in the bottom right corner, closest to the viewer . It seems that there's a large distance from top plate to the corner. Wouldn't the roof decking sag? Or should there be a diagonal rafter part, that goes from corner of the top plate to where the fascia meets (in the corner)?
Hi Edvard, there will be battens that run over the top of the rafters that will help to support the overhanging rafter. Also, you could put in a few more trimmers over the wall closer to the corner.
Do you have the sketchup file for this that you could maybe link to? Also, do you happen to know what the longest span can be without a wall on a skillion roof? I know that likely differs for different areas (snow weight etc), but was interested in perhaps a "best practices" - as in..."no longer than 20ft without a support beam or wall" -- Thanks for the great video!
Hi Kevin, Thanks for your comment, unfortunately, I no longer have the original SketchUp file fo this video due to several hard drive crashes. Also, there is no real "best practice" for beam spans as there are just too many variables in timber strength and local rules and standards. Sorry, I could not be more helpful.
Hi Greg If you have to join the Rafters in the middle you would need to install a Timber or Steel Beam, running the length of the roof, either underneath or inline with the rafters to carry the join. This would need to be designed by a structural engineer or as per your countries Timber Framing Code or equivalent,
Thank you for your excellent video, I am wanting to utilize this roof system on top of three 40' shipping containers in a U shape with a concrete great room and framed in wall. I have a simple sketch I did on sketchup that I wish I could get you, I want the jack wall three quarters distance of the roof with windows and one quarter rest of the way. How would you attach the roof to the containers? thank you
Hi Mate, thanks for your comments, the best way that I have seen is just to use large washers on the inside of the twist lock holes and just bolt a beam through them that will span to the next cam lock.
In this day in age there is no need to have a birdsmouth at all however if you dont birdsmouth the rafter additional support in the form of a wedge or a framing anchor is required. Hope this helps.
Is it possible to tie this kind of roof into the side of a weatherboard house without a frame underneath it? Essentially using the tie in to the house wall as the support for the high side of the roof?
Hi, William, these videos may help, they are for a Gable Roof, however, the only difference with the Skillion is that the "1/2 Span" will be the span (width) of the building rather than Half. ua-cam.com/video/a0SS8lwqf7g/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/DJ34JxKZcEQ/v-deo.html Hope they help
Thanks for the excellent video, really helpful. Do you have any recommendations as to where to use galvanised L shaped brackets and such, or just good screws through one piece and into the end grain of another? Cheers
Hi Russ L brackets are generally only used to secure the rafters down to the top plates, to fix the verge rafter yiu can just screw or nail through the rafter into the end grain of the trimmer.
Thanks for all the excellent videos. One question. Do you need to block lvl’s that are the rafters for a skillion roof? Span is 5.3 m single span? Rafters are to be exposed. Thanks
Hi Peter, My initial thought was yes, however, I can't find anything in AS 1684 or the LVL installation guide that says that you have to. I would definitely block over the walls to stop overturning but it appears like you don't have to do any midspan which should be ok with LVL as they won't twist or bow like natural timber. Hope this helps
Great videos! Can I ask you some questions about roofing? I have a 20' x 30' lean-to roof I'm building and I need to know what's the best design. I can send pics if that would help.
Sooooo what if I want to take out the jack studs to make an opening for a loft going outward, AND I want to make the ceiling vaulted, AND required length for the rafters including the loft is over 24 feet meaning I'll have to connect two boards to span the length... is it possible to make it strong enough? My house itself is 16' by 14' but with the loft extending out its 24' x 14'. I've already built 3 walls at 8 feet tall.(haven't built the wall that will support the high side of the roof and the loft yet). I love your videos! They've been very helpful for me so far so thankyou very much even if you don't answer my question. Though it would be really nice because I'm trying to move on with my build and don't know anyone I can ask about this :)
Hi Seth Sure you can take out some studs as long as you treat it like any other opening and put in a head or a lintel to transfer the load to the studs beside the opening. As for the length of the rafters i would look at some Manufactured Timber Products as an alternative they are available in any length you like. In Australia i would look at LVL (Laminated Veneered Lumber) or I beams, not sure what they are called where your from. The other option would be to run a steel beam across the width of the loft either under or in line with the rafters so they are only spanning half the length of the loft. Hope this helps
Thanks, that does help. As far as the rafters I've realized it's a bit odd to have the slope of the roof going the long way as I have it planned, but I can't change that. Instead of finding longer rafters I'm thinking about making the rafters go sideways so they can be shorter. They would bridge the two gable triangle things on either side and have bracing in between each of them. Is there any structural issue with this that I'm not seeing?
Buildsum Ah I see, thanks, great video, very detailed and a great visual representation.. Ive never used google sketch before (just cad) but after seeing your skills with it, il have to check it out.
hy guys i need help with engeering graphic and design pat im required to design a shopping centre with a bakery,butchery and general dealer so what is exactly a shopping centre
Hi Mate, a shopping centre is generally a collection of shops centred around one or 2 large supermarkets or department stores. As far Building classification goes it is a class 6 building and could include the classifications such as Class 7a, Carpark. This video may help with the classifications ua-cam.com/video/YbdEPmtEhG0/v-deo.html. I'm not sure if this is what you are looking for but i hope it helps
They need to span 21 feet but its for a low slope roof. Ill raise the high end about 12 inches then rest the other end on the rafters. I was thinking I could use 2x4 if I put a brace every 6 feet. Im doing it myself so they are easy to work with. Hopefully it holds up. @@Buildsum
Mate, that sounds like a very long span, the most I was thinking was around 7 feet. If you mean that you are going to put in a support rather than a brace every 6 feet that might be ok.
hi, I live in a home with a flat roof, and have ever since moving in wanted to convert it to a single pitched metal lay roof. i plan on doing all work myself but am unsure of what all i will need to get the job done
Ian Chivers Hi Ian, Steel cross bracing will definately help. Blocking is generally only required if the rafters are wide ( or deep depending on which way you look at it) to stop them from rolling over. The roof batterns won't give it much bracing however if you are putting on a iron roof that will give it substantual bracing.
Mate, after being a handyman for 11 years I became a carpenter after getting my skills assessed, realised that I have few holes in my knowledge with regards to home building. Just want to send you a massive thanks for your videos as they are exactly what I need to educate myself to get my knowledge and confidence up. At the moment I am going through each one of your videos and they are just awesome!!. Thanks again mate. wish you the best with your channel.
Hi Mate, thanks for the comment, it is great to hear the the channel is still helping.
Just wanted to comment how amazingly helpful your videos are. An absolute treasure trove for us DIYers to build correctly and easily. Thank you very much!!
Thanks Mate, I'm glad it was helpful.
This is just perfect for me :) I am studying construction at University with no experience in construction. Thank you so much!
Thanks Mate, great to hear.
Thx, My 12x 24' garage had a leaking flat roof. It now has a Shed type/Skillion thx to your video and many other youtubers. I went with a galvanized metal roof with 5 windows across the jack wall. It took me a month to finish and I am very happy with the results.
Good on you Nomad, Great use of the Jack wall I'm sure it will let in heaps of light.
Nomad Chad 👀
A month....
Mate - I am just building a little place in NZ, you sound just like my mate in Katherine NT. Your videos are very good! Set my profiles/hurdles out yesterday. My mate over here said don't bring your aussie slang over here! Thanks again
Cool, thanks
This book was a great resource for ideas, practical advice ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx-b91_bYU48sOwHX-XC49tRRXRxcnOmZm and pro tips I purchased the plans for the 10'x16' colonial and used them for the basics and made my own modifications. I built my shed for storage and lawn equipment, but decided to sheath and side it in case I ever wanted to add insulation and turn it into a shop or bunkhouse. I poured over this book all winter while I planned and found it to be the all-around best shed book out there.
A variation on the ceiling would be a "vaulted ceiling" giving quite a bit more perceived space on the inside. That would require *not* using the horizontal beams shown at 3:00 in the video and just drywalling the interior (underside) of the roof directly. How much structural loss (if any) would need to be compensated to allow a vaulted ceiling without those horizontal beams?
Hi Mate, if you are going to maintain the flat style roof then there is not much of an issue however if you are going to vault a pitched roof, i.e one with a ridge, then you would need to consider this problem.
Thanks for the great videos, probably wouldn't have my job done myself with out them. Thanks again
Thanks Mate, Glad you like them!
I love your channel and I have been following it for quote a long time. I make similar, but different videos in New Zealand. I hope you start uploading videos again as they are really helpful!
Hi Mate, thanks for your comment, whats your channel?
I have pretty much ran out of ideas with out repeating myself over and over.
@@Buildsum It is 3dmaker223. I really liked your videos of how to set up a building site. I think that one can continue to show how a whole building can be built. I think it is very useful for apprentices. I am a designer myself, but my target clients are DIY builders for small cabins exempted from the building consent. in NZ you can now build up to 30sqm without a need for a building permit. Also, you do not have to be lbp registered to build it. So, there are a lot of people who want to build, but do not know how. Also, they do not understand all building terms. I noticed some of the terms are a little different between NZ and AU. But they are mostly the same.
Awesome video. Simple yet thoroughly spelled out. I’m building my first rough cabin, a 12’ x 20’ and am wondering if I can run a 4x4 across the midpoint overlapping the side walls as the sill of constructing two rooflines, one sloping towards the front and the other towards the back and lay in a couple supports on the inside below the 4x4 rather than a full wall as your video shows? Much thanks.
Hi Mate, sure you can build up the centre and have essentually a skillion of both sides however that is just basically a Gable roof and you could save yourself some materials if you built it as a Gable.
@@Buildsum yes I can totally see that now. I built the “box” and laid across the frame. My initial plan was to put clerestory windows, but I ended up with enough windows below, not to mention the crazy high cost of windows these days. Yikes. I Couldn’t have done it without your videos. Well, would have been harder. Thanks.
and 8 years later still helpful.
Thanks Chris.
This has helped me no end in prepping to renovate my shed into an office. I have a concrete block structure which I am going to build a skillion roof on!! Thank you :)
Thanks for your comment Rob, I'm glad it helped.
Mate, loved this video on the skillion roof. Can you point me to a video that covers installation of metal roofing sheets and gutters onto the skillion roof?
Hi Mate, sorry I dont have any videos like that.
Simple and easy to understand explanation. Like carpentry for dummies. Cheers.
How do you insulate the roof on a skillion design? Since there is no ridge, as in a roof with a gable, there is no ridge vent. Are there no vents installed on the lower or upper sections of the roof, and if that's the case, does insulation take up the entire thickness/height of the rafters/joists? My roof doesn't have a ceiling frame, as the roof is the ceiling. To have additional natural lighting, I have casement windows in the raised area, so I can't install a ceiling frame. Thank you.
Hi Mate, as you say you just have to insulate between the rafters with whatever thickness of insulation you require.
I'm trying to locate the video you mentioned in regards to how to calculate length of each gable stud. Could point me to the video that you a re referring to? I can't seem to find it on your channel. Many thanks :)
Hi Mate, here is the link
ua-cam.com/video/iO6FaJJXFp0/v-deo.html
Hope this helps
Thank you for great video explanation.
In your example you is using jack wall, but was telling that it's better to build higher wall. But how in this case you will build the ceiling? You don't have horizontal top plate
Thank you
Hi Mate, you can just attach a plate to the wall for your ceiling joists to run into.
Thanks for this vid. I'm starting the roof build today on my shed using your instruction .
Hi Mate Good Luck
If you had a 30' endwall, and a 40' length, what kind of lumber and support could you do that would support everything? I was thinking of maybe using a glulam or multiple 40' LVLs as the "strongback", or central beam, and then having some 20' 2x12 rafters that would lap and break over the glulam/LVLs and have bearing pressure down on top of it. Is there an easier way or would it be better to do a steel I beam? Or am I way off in what could be supported by a single 40' beam at 15' from the walls? Thanks
Hi Mate, it sounds like it should work you just have to make sure that the timber or steel you are using is rated to span that distance with that load.
Hey would you ever use trimmers in between your rafters to stop rafters rolling over?
Are the battens and facia and like Tripple grips normally enough?
Hi Damien, i treat rafters the same as joists, if they are 4 time wider than they are thick then they need to be trimmed out.
Thanks for this video. I'm built a huge dog house 8' X 8' (for 3 doberman pinschers), with a gate door for an auto food feeder, and a frame for a window air conditioner (the mosquitos are brutal here and the cold keeps them away). I set the dog house next to the house and I will match the slope angle of the house roof to the dog house. I will use your design for the dog house roof.
Hi Mate, Wow, that is a huge dog house, Thanks for your comment.
I want to see it. Im building an 8'x8' greenhouse with a roof like this.
@Buildsum thanks for another good video.
Is it possible to build it so that the rafters is turned 90 degrees, so the gable stud wall carries the weight? I ask because I have a lot of rafters not long enough for my roof project. but I have a bearing wall coming down the middle so I could join them over that wall if it is possible to turn the rafters 90 degress. What is the best way to join them?
Hi Troels, yes you could, they would technically be purlins rather than rafters but it would work. The other thing that you could do is to put a beam in under the middle of the rafters to support the join in the rafters. The best way to join them is to run them past each other and nail them together however on the outside rafters you would have to butt them together and place a block behind the join to nail to. This is similar to how you join Bearers and Joists as shown in this video. ua-cam.com/video/hkw9WT5B7h0/v-deo.html
Hope this helps
@@Buildsum Thanks a lot
Great video. If the slope of the roof is longer than most 2x6 boards..(over 20 feet), how would one properly join the boards?
Hi Micheal, It's not the length that you need to worry about so much as the distance that they can span. If you want to have a flat roof that is longer than the span of the timber you will need to install a beam that runs at 90 degrees to the rafters. This beam will obviously have to span further than the rafters so may need to be a deeper member or even a steel beam. Another alternative might be to use parallel trusses however they will need to be designed and constructed by a truss manufacturer. Another option would be to use a pitched roof instead.
Hope this helps
Hi TomatoPasteHamstring
Structurally there is no need to have the Ceiling Frame at all, raked ceilings are probably more popular than a level ceiling.
The loft idea sounds great, good luck with you shed.
Buildsum
God bless you brother. I’ve been searching for the last 4 hrs on information on construction of these kinds of roofs. Thank you so much.
Thanks, that was my question too :-)
Your videos are invaluable in helping me build a back yard cottage/workshop that is permitted and legal. Do you have a video that shows the full skillion height framing method vs jack studs on top plate . You mentioned that is preferable but I am not quite sure how it works without seeing it. I guess I also want an open ceiling vs flat ceiling, possibly so I can put small loft style shelf in the upper area.
Hi Mate
I'm glad you like the videos help
Unfortunately I dont have a video like the one you asked for however all I am saying is that it is better to construct your two walls at different heights if you have the opportunity rater than having to extend one.
Yeah..I totally agree. Then I assume the top plate is just at the higher level essentially on the higher wall?
how can i build a roof like this one but with parapet roof on three sides except where the roof leans to?
Hi Carlos, you could do it by just building the walls all the way up to start with and then putting the rafters inside that or do the roof first and then add short walls to extend above.
@@Buildsumthanks for the quick response, i've never built anything of this size but right now all the local contractors are charging an arm and leg. Prices are crazy cause of lumber spike, but for some reason the labor went up also, very high I may say.
I hope you can do a video on it on the near future. thanks Buildsum
I'm wanting to bring the studs on the high side up to roof height and avoid a jack wall but a I want a flat ceiling inside. Would I notch into the studs to create a horizontal surface for the ceiling joists?
Hi Mate, no, i would put a plate along the wall and run the ceiling joists into that.
Is a ceiling frame necessary for a skillion roof or can the ceiling be left open? I am building the same kind of roof except with an additional roof on the other side. My other question is: Can I put on the roof sheathing and metal sheeting up BEFORE attaching the wall sheathing below? The reason i ask is that I started adding osb sheathing to one of the roofs and when I got up there noticed the structure as a whole sways some. I’m thinking the wall sheathing will tighten it up? I opted to put up the roof first because we get a lot of rain where I live and figure the roof will add some protection to my subfloor which is also osb and the water manages to get through the plastic. Much thanks.
Hi Mate, absolutely no need for the ceiling.
Where I'm from it is common practice to get the roof on ASAP and then go back and do the walls, etc. That said the walls should be adequately braced so they don't move before you get on the roof.
@@Buildsum will do. Thanks for clearing that up for me.
If you were to build one wall higher than the rest what is the best way of connecting that wall with the rest of the other walls? Because I built a garage once with all walls same height and double top plated to join them but I'm currently building another shed with skillion roof and coz of one side being higher I can't double top plate that wall to the lower height walls, so how could I join them? Thanks.
Hi Mate, you just need to use a connector like a Multi grip or a Triple grip from the lower top plate to the higher wall.
www.bunnings.com.au/pryda-multigrip-100-x-35mm_p1072509
Hope this helps
@@Buildsum awesome thanks for that. It didn't occur to me how to do this until I was nearly ready to stand the walls up. 👍
Thanks for all the great videos. Do you need battens under corrugated roofing on a skillion roof if the rafters are running across the pitch, on top of a raked top plate and spaced within what would be specified for the battens (ie. 900mm)?
Hi Brett, in this case the rafters, as you call them, would technically be Purlins and yes, they can go across the pitch as you describe. I generally try to keep my battern spacing under 1m however im pretty sure you can go as much as 1.1m with corrigated iron. It is always best to read and follow the manufactures instructions so you dont void any warranty if you are using new materials.
Hope this helps
@@Buildsum Ok, great. Thanks again.
thanx for this. I'm an absolute beginner, so while I still have questions I'm a little clearer than I was to start with.
+Judy Allen Hi Judy Thanks for your comments and glad my video has helped a bit
As a novice, i took on a project to build a 12x16 shed/workshop up at my land 2 hours away from where i live.
Using basic designs found online.
Building the structure by myself wasnt too hard.
However, having difficulties with buulding the open gable roof.
So much so that i am now considering ditching the gable roof for a mono pitch like this skillion in your video.
I guess my question to you or anyone here is.....it seems this mono pitch is much simpler and easier than a double pitch with this gable roof.
Would that be an accurate assumption?
My structure is level and square, but something seems off just looking at the 3 trusses i have put up so far.
The only thing that i can come up with is that i may have shanked one of my cuts by 1/2 degree or so. On either the upper or lower cords.
I dunno. I have been staying in a tent when i go up there to work and the weather turned down pretty big this last trip. Down to 16 degrees. So the enviroment plus doing the work by myself has me a bit worn out and probably prone to more mistakes.
Hi Mate, yes the mono pitch is certainly the easiet method.
Gables aren't to hard really, have you seen this video.
These videos may help
ua-cam.com/video/iKyD4vR_6-M/v-deo.html&pp=gAQBiAQB
Certainly sounds like tough conditions to be working in. Hope this helps
@@Buildsum turns out i did mess up a cut. Instead of 26.5 degrees for the 2 upper cords. I did 28.
I didnt use my 1st as a template and just kept measuring each individually.
Which of course had 1 or 2 trusses sitting higher than the original
Exactly the details I was looking for Thanks
AND STILL helpful. I believe you said to to just fill the holes between the outriggers with 2x6's (if that's what you are using for rafters) is there a standard for how often to place outriggers? Can I put them on 2ft centers and just fill the gaps with 2x6's?
Hi Bill, the outriggers should be spaced the same as the rafters. Hope this helps
Great video! I was wondering how you would know what height the jack wall will be? How would you figure that out?
Hi Hermon ( love the name) The link below is for a Jerkin Head roof however the calculation process is the same as what you are asking.
ua-cam.com/video/McIttRIFtB4/v-deo.html
Hope this helps
Nice vid on the subject... what is the longest run you could build this type of roof for? Considering building a 28x52, preferably with a few feet of overhand on the front and back. Also, is there a way to do it with no vertical support beams that go into the inside of the building itself (centerline of the building), as well as an open ceiling design?
Hi Mate, the longer the run the deeper and generally more expensive the timber required. You could put a beam under the join in the rafters to support them over long runs or if you want clear lines you can lift the beam up into the same plane as the rafters and butt the rafters into it with hangers to take the load. This beam would have to be pretty substantual to span the required distance so it is not uncommon to use steel I beams to do this. Hope this helps.
Hello, May I ask what is the software that you are using to make this plans. thank you in advance
Hi Mate, I use SketchUp for all my vidoes.
@@Buildsum Thank you so much. I appreciate your help
Hi I know. This video is for educational purposes. But I want to ask were could I get some one. To design something simple for me 30’x27’ detached garage with two single car garage doors and 1 regular door with a 2/12 pitch flat roof the city of Phoenix Arizona wanted me to get a structural engineer because the garage will be 15’ tall
Hi Mate, sorry I am in Australia so dont think I would be much help.
What is the distance from the inside edge of the top plate to the verge plate ?
Hi Chris, this is really up to you or the designer of the roof. As a rule the outrigger can't extend more that 1/3 the total length of the outrigger which is the standard rule for a counterlevered member. Some designs have the same over hang on the barge as they do on the eave and others have a smaller barge up to you really. Hope this helps.
hi do you have a video explainig north light roofs?
Hi Mate, no sorry I am not familiar with that terminology.
Ypu may have mentioned this some place else, but what's the software used for displaying these models?
Hi Simon, I use SketchUp for do all my drawings.
@@Buildsum Looks great! I will build this type of roof soon so your drawing made it perfectly clear! Thank you!
Appreciate the video mate but shouldn’t you use the general cantilever method of 1/3 out 2/3 in...? 🤔
Hi Matt, Yes the outriggers should use the 1/3 - 2/3 cantilever rule. This would mean that they would extend back to the second rafter and the first rafter would just be blocks between the rafters.
@@Buildsum Hey mate, In your reply above talking about cantilevering the outriggers and taking it back to the second rafter, do you mean the first rafter would be blocks between the 'outriggers' rather than rafters? Now thinking of the front and back walls and where the rafter sits on top, do you put blocks to plug the gaps between the rafters along the front and back walls?
Your reference to a video @2:40 I can;t seem to find? Please advise.
Hi mate, that would be this one
ua-cam.com/video/iO6FaJJXFp0/v-deo.html
Dear sir. What an excellent video. Can you tell me what is the calculation for a mètre framing square please .
so if a beam not long enough can I double them up? to make it longer
Hi Jacqueline, beams get their strength from thier depth not their thickness so making them thicker wont help much with how far they can span, you could run a Purlin inline with the rafters however it would have to be able to span the length of the roof and carry the weight.
Thank for the video it was very informative. One question I have is how much further can the rafters over hang over the highest point of the roof, is there a maximum distance as am building this as a pool cabana and wanted more shade.
Hope this question makes sense.
Cheers
Hi Marcelo
That depends on the size and therefore the span of the rafter in the first place. The span tables will specify a span and a counter lever for each rafter.
This video may help.
ua-cam.com/video/X7eG88FpLI0/v-deo.html
Any reason you would advise against using 200x45 i-joists for the rafters? I'm building a livable garden shed 3600x4800 and happen to have some ijoists on hand, planning a 1mtr overhang on the high side and 400mm on the back. 5mtr span in total.
Hi mate, no, as long as you dont notch the cords then they will work fine.
I guess you would strap them to the top plate and fill in between with whatever.
As an aside and this might change things. I've got hold of a load of second hand coolroom panels. 9off are 4200mm. The 20off others are 2700. I'm thinking this could be an interesting livable-shed build. Panels are painted metal both sides w/ 100mm polystyrene.
What software do you use? 🤔
Hi mate, I use SketchUp for all my videos.
Hi, We're buliding a 16x20 cabin. It will have a loft on one half (8x16) with the other half being open to the space below. We are doing the skillion roof, but due to us being unsure of our roof choice when framing the walls, they are all 8ft. (One wall is not taller) SO we are going to have to build the jack wall on one 20' length to create the skillion roof. What are your tips for building it like this?? How do you make it more sturdy? There will be OSB on the outside and inside, thinking of adding some steel framing plates along the joint of the wall plate and bottom of the small wall. Thanks for your help!
Paul Reed Hi Paul If you can run the OSB full length that would be great otherwise make the join at the bottom and let the full sheet run over the join of the jack wall and the existing wall. That should make it strong enough. I don't think that the framing plates will be needed if you can do this.
Buildsum Thanks Buildsum! We were planning on doing just that, left the osb on the outside a couple feet from the top so we could go over that joint. Thanks for your advice, makes me feel better about the stability.
Hi do you have a video about estimating the cost of labor for plastering jobs?
Hi Adrian, no nothing like that sorry.
There are so many excellent videos you have shared. Thanks. One question as a novice builder I wanted to ask, if I want to put a flat ceiling in a skillion roof, how do I attach the ceiling joists to the highest wall frame if I dont use trusses and I extend the stud height as you suggest ? I’ll be working my way through your videos as time permits. Kind Regards
Hi Peter, thanks for your comments, I think the easiest way to install the ceiling Joists would be to set them on the Top Plate similar to the start of the video however if you don't think this is an option then I would attach a Plate, on edge, to the side of the studs at the height required and then attach the ceiling joists with joist hangers or similar.
Hope this helps
Thanks for the video. What is the purpose of the "hanger"? Are the roof joists that are attached to the rafters on the short wall necessary? Is a vaulted ceiling possible?
Hi
The hanger extends the span of the ceiling joists without protruding into the room. Ther is no problem at all with not having the ceiling frame, a vaulted ceiling is certainly possible.
Can you use triple grips instead of using a birds mouth?
Hi Mate, yes you can
I need some help with my current architecture project. I have decided to go for a Skillion/mono-pitch roof but I am totally unsure about the correct way that I would calculate the length of each rafter and the distance between etc. My roof is 9.6m x 8.1m and i have decided to go for a thin waterproof concrete. Any help would be helpful. Thanks
+Sam Robinson HI Sam
Both these video show you how to calculate the length of a rafter for a pitched roof, for a skillion just change 1/2 Span to Span and it will work.
ua-cam.com/video/kKkfIzqAj90/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/a0SS8lwqf7g/v-deo.html
The distance in between is usually determined by the designed and the rafter sectional size determined from that.
Hope this helps
Is the jack wall method still a safe way to build this type of roof? Thanks, great video
HI Steve, Yes it is
How far out can you come 4 metres to much or just 3.5meters max
Hi Mate, this distance depends on the size of the rafters.
@@Buildsum If the rafters were the correct size or altered, is it possible to extend by 3.75 meters?
Possible but probally not econoically viable i would suggest.
Hello! Can this be done with two lengths of 3 meter studs if I'm only able to find a 6 meter studs for the length?
Hi Daniel, It can however you would then need a support beam running across the middle of the room to support the ends of those Rafters. 6 metres is a fairly standard length there shouldn't be to much trouble finding material at this length.
Thanks, this was super helpful!
Great video this is exactly what I was looking for. The only question I have is how do you connect the rafters to the walls? Do you need to come up from underneath or is toe nailing them in sturdy enough
Hi John
They will generally require a trip-l-grip to or 2 to hold them down after tacking them down with the toe nail.
Hope this helps
really finding your videos helpful. i am planning to build a skillion roof timber shed with 5deg roof pitch. just wondering, you were saying it is better to build one wall a little bit taller, but in doing that, when I go to attach the double top plates to connect all 4 walls, 2 of the double tops wont be able to sit flat. is there a correct way around this?
just one more thing, a bit off topic but do you need to use house wrap when putting up sheet metal wall siding if I batten the sheets off from the wall? if so, would i put the wrap directly over the plywood then battens over that for sheeting, or wrap over the battens then sheeting on top. thanks you mate.
Hi Alex
If you build one wall taller and have two sloping walls you won't be able to overlap the top plates at the corners, this is OK you just need to use 100 x 50mm Gang-nail plates on top to hold the corners together
As for the House wrap it works better if you can create an air gap between it and the Cladding so I would put it under the battens
Thanks for your questions and feedback
I'm currently building a skillion roof shed/animal barn and having the same dilemna - build one wall taller and then try to join it without overlapping top-plates, or do the jack-wall method with overlapping double plates underneath. Wondering which method you ended up using and how it's been going?
Thanks Mr build, you saved my life.
Thanks, Ron, glad it helps.
im building a 40x30 shop and i want to use a sloped roof like this. what do i need to do about here becuase obviously you cant buy 2x6 boards that long. do you over lap to boards to get the length? i assume you would need a lot of over lap to keep in structurally sound. anybody ever have to do this?
Hi John, you will have to join the boards however they have to be joined on a support. You may be better off doing a low pitched roof so you can join them in the middle of the roof. Hope this helps.
@@Buildsum I was thinking that myself. I was going to go with a sloped roof because it's less material and easier to do by yourself. But if it won't fly with the inspector then it ain't going to work. I guess low pitch it is
wonderful. thank you for sharing your talent and knowledge! I'm doing my first one this week. and it's got me a little nervous. looks easy enough from the sketch. also, how can you calculate your roof pitch with this mono roof design. like I said I'm a new at this part of construction and contracting. this video really helped my visual. thanks again friend!
-Dave
+David Paul Hi David Thanks for your comments.
If you know the difference in height between the high side and the low side and the span of the rafter you can divide the height difference by the span of the rafter and multiply by inverse Tan e.g. if the difference in height is 0.577 mm and the span of the rafter was 3m then -Tan x (0.577 / 3) = 10.887 degrees say 11.
If this doesn't answer your question you could look at these videos they are for a traditional pitched roof however you just need to substitute 1/2 Span for the Span of the Skillion
ua-cam.com/video/a0SS8lwqf7g/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/kKkfIzqAj90/v-deo.html
Hope this helps
+Buildsum yes thank you so much!!!!
What modifications would you make if the interior does not have a ceiling?
+Pollmuller Hi None just carry out the same process without the ceiling
So how far in do you place the first rafter in order to make room for the verge plate? I put my rafter on the outside edge now I have nothing to nail my siding to ie no verge plate and what are you using for a verge plate, a 2x4?
Hi, As the outriggers cantilever over the Verge plate the first rafter should be back 2 times the distance that the outrigger overhangs. For the Verge plate and the gable wall, I would just use the same material as used for the rest of the walls
@@Buildsum Just checking my understanding please, if my overhang is 600mm, then the first rafter begins 1.2m from the overhanging verge rafter? (Is that the outrigger?)
As in NOT 1.2m from the side wall...yes?
What about the corners of the overhang rafters? Is there a diagonal rafter design?
Hi Edvard, I'm not exactly sure what you are referring to by "diagonal rafter design" however depending on the design the ends of the rafters are usually covered with a Fascia or Barge board or just left as they are.
Buildsum I mean, how do they connect in the corners? From the top plate to the corner? Let's say in the bottom right corner, closest to the viewer . It seems that there's a large distance from top plate to the corner. Wouldn't the roof decking sag? Or should there be a diagonal rafter part, that goes from corner of the top plate to where the fascia meets (in the corner)?
Hi Edvard, there will be battens that run over the top of the rafters that will help to support the overhanging rafter. Also, you could put in a few more trimmers over the wall closer to the corner.
Buildsum thank you!
What program did you use for this? Nice video!
Hi Mate, I use SketchUp for all my drawings.
Do you have the sketchup file for this that you could maybe link to? Also, do you happen to know what the longest span can be without a wall on a skillion roof? I know that likely differs for different areas (snow weight etc), but was interested in perhaps a "best practices" - as in..."no longer than 20ft without a support beam or wall" -- Thanks for the great video!
Hi Kevin, Thanks for your comment, unfortunately, I no longer have the original SketchUp file fo this video due to several hard drive crashes. Also, there is no real "best practice" for beam spans as there are just too many variables in timber strength and local rules and standards. Sorry, I could not be more helpful.
what if the roof is 26 ft wide , can u show how u would join the joists ib the middle?
Hi Greg
If you have to join the Rafters in the middle you would need to install a Timber or Steel Beam, running the length of the roof, either underneath or inline with the rafters to carry the join. This would need to be designed by a structural engineer or as per your countries Timber Framing Code or equivalent,
those bottom darker joist towards the end of the video. Are they fastening to the rafters? You can't see the end.
+Eric Hovermale Hi Eric Yes they are nailed to both rafter and the top plate
+Buildsum Thank you!
Thank you for your excellent video, I am wanting to utilize this roof system on top of three 40' shipping containers in a U shape with a concrete great room and framed in wall. I have a simple sketch I did on sketchup that I wish I could get you, I want the jack wall three quarters distance of the roof with windows and one quarter rest of the way. How would you attach the roof to the containers? thank you
Hi Mate, thanks for your comments, the best way that I have seen is just to use large washers on the inside of the twist lock holes and just bolt a beam through them that will span to the next cam lock.
What would a good height difference to not need a birdsmouth cut, thanks?. Thank you, this video is so simple and helpful.
In this day in age there is no need to have a birdsmouth at all however if you dont birdsmouth the rafter additional support in the form of a wedge or a framing anchor is required. Hope this helps.
@@Buildsum Yes, it really did, thank you.
Is it possible to tie this kind of roof into the side of a weatherboard house without a frame underneath it? Essentially using the tie in to the house wall as the support for the high side of the roof?
dunniss Hi dunniss Yes that is an accepable way of constructing this roof
dunniss yes just cut mark the pitch and cut it. no need for a seat cut. just hanger it.
Part two: I understand 6 inches of rise for 12 inches of run. So please help me with how rise and run using a metric framing square. Thanks
Hi, William,
these videos may help, they are for a Gable Roof, however, the only difference with the Skillion is that the "1/2 Span" will be the span (width) of the building rather than Half.
ua-cam.com/video/a0SS8lwqf7g/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/DJ34JxKZcEQ/v-deo.html
Hope they help
Thanks for the excellent video, really helpful. Do you have any recommendations as to where to use galvanised L shaped brackets and such, or just good screws through one piece and into the end grain of another? Cheers
Hi Russ
L brackets are generally only used to secure the rafters down to the top plates, to fix the verge rafter yiu can just screw or nail through the rafter into the end grain of the trimmer.
Buildsum that makes sense, thanks for your help again. Cheers
I need some desinhs for a room addition blueprints to get approved along with the framinh instructions will you do it for a fee ? You are awsome
Hi +Rommel Aninipot
Thanks for the feedback, The software is Google SketchUp
very nice video thanks
What would a person do if you wanted the interior slanted as well? Ty for any help
How do I tie single pitch roof to double?? Thanks
sweet thanks this vid still helping in 2016
Very helpful! Thanks! BTW, What CAD software did you use?
Could you provide the sketchup of this ? That would be really helpful, thanks ! By the way great video ;)
You helped alot with my graphics homework, and for that I thank you a million! :)
Thanks for all the excellent videos. One question. Do you need to block lvl’s that are the rafters for a skillion roof? Span is 5.3 m single span? Rafters are to be exposed. Thanks
Hi Peter, My initial thought was yes, however, I can't find anything in AS 1684 or the LVL installation guide that says that you have to. I would definitely block over the walls to stop overturning but it appears like you don't have to do any midspan which should be ok with LVL as they won't twist or bow like natural timber.
Hope this helps
Thanks so much. I initially thought the same and as you couldn’t find anything in the standard or code. Good to have a second opinion. Thanks.
Every 2.2m or less, the blocking strengthens rafters and reduces flex. Blocks to be at least 70 percent the depth of rafter or more.
Great videos! Can I ask you some questions about roofing? I have a 20' x 30' lean-to roof I'm building and I need to know what's the best design. I can send pics if that would help.
All Out Throttle Hi Ask away i will help if i can
Buildsum I sent you a message through youtube.
hey i have 21 by 25ft shed i am doing too. what wood should i use 2x6 or 2x8 as its a long span? or will i need loaad bearing wall in center?
Recommended to build forward wall at full height.
Hi Mate, Yes that is definately the best option.
@@Buildsum Hey bub!🤘👊😉
@@Buildsum Im building tiny home with shed roof....🙏😎
Im planning skillion type roof with attic... it will be a 20' run.. what would be the roof truss design pls help thanks
Sooooo what if I want to take out the jack studs to make an opening for a loft going outward, AND I want to make the ceiling vaulted, AND required length for the rafters including the loft is over 24 feet meaning I'll have to connect two boards to span the length... is it possible to make it strong enough?
My house itself is 16' by 14' but with the loft extending out its 24' x 14'. I've already built 3 walls at 8 feet tall.(haven't built the wall that will support the high side of the roof and the loft yet).
I love your videos! They've been very helpful for me so far so thankyou very much even if you don't answer my question. Though it would be really nice because I'm trying to move on with my build and don't know anyone I can ask about this :)
Hi Seth
Sure you can take out some studs as long as you treat it like any other opening and put in a head or a lintel to transfer the load to the studs beside the opening.
As for the length of the rafters i would look at some Manufactured Timber Products as an alternative they are available in any length you like. In Australia i would look at LVL (Laminated Veneered Lumber) or I beams, not sure what they are called where your from. The other option would be to run a steel beam across the width of the loft either under or in line with the rafters so they are only spanning half the length of the loft.
Hope this helps
Thanks, that does help. As far as the rafters I've realized it's a bit odd to have the slope of the roof going the long way as I have it planned, but I can't change that. Instead of finding longer rafters I'm thinking about making the rafters go sideways so they can be shorter. They would bridge the two gable triangle things on either side and have bracing in between each of them. Is there any structural issue with this that I'm not seeing?
Hi Seth Sorry for the delay but have only just seen your message. No nothing structurally wrong with doing that, sounds like s good option
great video, is this your version of a skillion roof build, or is it a conventional way?..
+EyeAmBatman Hi This is a conventional way however there are other ways
Buildsum Ah I see, thanks, great video, very detailed and a great visual representation.. Ive never used google sketch before (just cad) but after seeing your skills with it, il have to check it out.
What's the best timber sheeting ..
And minimum thickness for a 7'x 8' size shed
Hi Mate, sorry we dont use timber sheeting in Australia like they do in America so i am not familiar with the required types or sizes.
hy guys i need help with engeering graphic and design pat im required to design a shopping centre with a bakery,butchery and general dealer so what is exactly a shopping centre
Hi Mate, a shopping centre is generally a collection of shops centred around one or 2 large supermarkets or department stores.
As far Building classification goes it is a class 6 building and could include the classifications such as Class 7a, Carpark. This video may help with the classifications ua-cam.com/video/YbdEPmtEhG0/v-deo.html. I'm not sure if this is what you are looking for but i hope it helps
can you use 2x4s for the rafters?
Hi Mate, you could, however, they won't span very far so it would have to be a pretty small building.
They need to span 21 feet but its for a low slope roof. Ill raise the high end about 12 inches then rest the other end on the rafters. I was thinking I could use 2x4 if I put a brace every 6 feet. Im doing it myself so they are easy to work with. Hopefully it holds up.
@@Buildsum
Mate, that sounds like a very long span, the most I was thinking was around 7 feet. If you mean that you are going to put in a support rather than a brace every 6 feet that might be ok.
This is super helpful video.
How far should I leave the first 2x6 from each end ? thanks
+Gary Woods twice the distance that it extends past the building 1/3-2/3 rule
Good job, Thank you for your information.
hi, I live in a home with a flat roof, and have ever since moving in wanted to convert it to a single pitched metal lay roof. i plan on doing all work myself but am unsure of what all i will need to get the job done
Hi Buildsum
Do you recommend any diagonal steel cross bracing or extra blocking or do you just rely on the roof battens?
Ian Chivers Hi Ian, Steel cross bracing will definately help. Blocking is generally only required if the rafters are wide ( or deep depending on which way you look at it) to stop them from rolling over. The roof batterns won't give it much bracing however if you are putting on a iron roof that will give it substantual bracing.
hey, dummy here....whats the hanger for and what is it attached to....
Hi Mate, the hanger carries the ceiling joists and is packed up off the top plates the depth of the ceiling joist
This was very helpful thank you !
Hi David
No problems
Thanks for the Feedback
what program are you using
Hi Joshua
I use Google sketch up for all my drawings