10:54 Or ... The original hole has four "locator" or "indexing" holes around it. Put a piece of paper over the fitting, rub pencil over the paper to make template, put template over scrap piece of flat stock, drill the "indexing" holes and the desired main hole or a hole at the center and you have a drill jig to use from above or below. Keep jig for future use. Might be easier to buy another hole saw for the "minor radius" and use George's method.
Gosh, it's so easy to get into the "new for old" syndrome - I did that on my yacht - all great improvements, of course - funny that my missus was not convinced........ (my counter to that was "go count your shoes in your cupboard" - end of conversation 😁
Bohs p402 asbestos surveyor. I wouldn’t hoover up any suspected asbestos contains materials. You are probably right. They liked to put it in everything they could. It’s very low risk but if you hoover it you may free up fibres then the hoover will send them airborne. Wet it and scrape it off would be my suggestion.
An easy fix for those cut off zip ties. They leave a sharp edge that is sure to scrape your hands when you brush up against them. An easy fix is to heat them slightly with one of those lighter sticks. The flame quickly melts the edges of the cut and rounds off those sharp edges. It only takes a split second or two.
That’s an interesting suggestion, not heard that one before. Can’t say I have come across humid air being drawn in being an issue tbh. Whenever I have come across water in a diesel tank it’s always been from a missing or broken o-ring on the filler cap.
The fuel lines are not subject to vibration because they are secured to the engine box sides both inside and out. No vibration means no chafing. These premium grade Fuel lines are also super thick and tough so very unlikely to chafe though. Occasionally I get boats in where thin pvc water pipe is used the fuel 😮😮😬
Some areas of the boat are painted with gel washed (flowcoat) some are just painted. The cockpit was painted with (I think) Hemple bilge and locker paint.
or you can get a scrap piece of ply, 6mm is enough, drill the final hole saw diameter, then centre that on the old smaller hole you want to enlarge and use the scrap ply piece as a guide, once it bites 2 mm in, it wont wander off anyway.
I want to soundproof the engine bay in my boat. I have an idea about it but I don't know if it is a bad one. I'm thining of making the engine bay airtight, but the engine needs air and the engine bay can get hot. So I am thinking of making it airtight except for an air conduit that will lead to somewhere above the deck, like the cockpit. If it works the engine will breathe from outside the boat, but from inside the boat it will be completely sealed. I don't know where the conduit should open out to on the outside. Just under the companionway entrance would be easy, but could the cockpit get flooded? I don't know if the whole idea is a bad one.
Well being in the uk my doodads are metric bit I occasionally mix up my imperial with metric for comedic effect when something is cut to the wrong size!
Not easy but it would be a case of drain tank and then unscrew it from the bulkhead to get the clearance needed to replace it. Not ideal but fortunately they have proven to be very reliable (at least I have not had any fail in use so far).
Haha, good we are on the same level. Yes it’s a bit over 60L (based on how much I have poured in and the indicated level on the sender so that all tallies. And bigger and it physically would not fit though the opening for the cockpit locker. These boats only have small engines so that’s a decent amount of range and double the capacity of the tank removed.
Another way to do the hole saw is use a scrap piece of ply and drill the hole through, now place the template over the hole you want to enlarge.
10:54 Or ... The original hole has four "locator" or "indexing" holes around it. Put a piece of paper over the fitting, rub pencil over the paper to make template, put template over scrap piece of flat stock, drill the "indexing" holes and the desired main hole or a hole at the center and you have a drill jig to use from above or below. Keep jig for future use. Might be easier to buy another hole saw for the "minor radius" and use George's method.
That center trick with the dril is GOLD tnx
Gosh, it's so easy to get into the "new for old" syndrome - I did that on my yacht - all great improvements, of course - funny that my missus was not convinced........ (my counter to that was "go count your shoes in your cupboard" - end of conversation 😁
Good response
Great vid - relieved you found the hole - greetings from Germany
Haha, me too 😉
Bohs p402 asbestos surveyor. I wouldn’t hoover up any suspected asbestos contains materials. You are probably right. They liked to put it in everything they could. It’s very low risk but if you hoover it you may free up fibres then the hoover will send them airborne. Wet it and scrape it off would be my suggestion.
Ok, thanks for that. Agree it’s low risk
Whats the brand of the polyester filler you used to seal the old fixing holes for the filler? Need something like that!
An easy fix for those cut off zip ties. They leave a sharp edge that is sure to scrape your hands when you brush up against them. An easy fix is to heat them slightly with one of those lighter sticks. The flame quickly melts the edges of the cut and rounds off those sharp edges. It only takes a split second or two.
Cut with nail clippers. In scuba we use cable ties a lot.
In the process of installing a new fuel tank in my Sea Sprite 30. This was a very useful reference.
Miss your vids!, and great to have them back. Terrific work, as usual, and wonderfully entertaining as always!
Glad you like them!
Always enjoy your videos.
I wish I knew that hole saw trick a week ago.
It’s not the first time, but someone has said that!
Nice work!
Insert a container with cat litter between the tank and the vent to prevent the exchange of air moisture
That’s an interesting suggestion, not heard that one before. Can’t say I have come across humid air being drawn in being an issue tbh. Whenever I have come across water in a diesel tank it’s always been from a missing or broken o-ring on the filler cap.
Condensation can form over a long period of time, so fill the tank during winter storage
No epoxy sealing the bare glass edges of the new hole? Curious! Thanks, Andrew
Sealing the edges of a hole cut through solid grp laminate on deck is unnecessary.
@@RefitandSail of course….was thinking it was cored with ply or balsa. Thanks!
fuel line & return out of the locker should have be run through grommets to prevent chaffing
The fuel lines are not subject to vibration because they are secured to the engine box sides both inside and out. No vibration means no chafing. These premium grade Fuel lines are also super thick and tough so very unlikely to chafe though. Occasionally I get boats in where thin pvc water pipe is used the fuel 😮😮😬
@@RefitandSail Not subject to vibration . Yeah right not even when on stands :)
Fit snug bulkhead grommets without excuses & say tks for my help
26:35 George, what is the bright white paint you have used in the 'tank locker'? It seems to cover well?
If it is the same as the internal lockers, he painted a couple of coats of white gelcoat on.
Some areas of the boat are painted with gel washed (flowcoat) some are just painted. The cockpit was painted with (I think) Hemple bilge and locker paint.
or you can get a scrap piece of ply, 6mm is enough, drill the final hole saw diameter, then centre that on the old smaller hole you want to enlarge and use the scrap ply piece as a guide, once it bites 2 mm in, it wont wander off anyway.
Yep that’s works too
No inspection access? How are you going to get the crud out when it enviably arrives?
Polisher
Unscrew the tank level sender, it’s quite a large hole
Unscrew the tank level sender, it’s quite a large hole
I want to soundproof the engine bay in my boat. I have an idea about it but I don't know if it is a bad one.
I'm thining of making the engine bay airtight, but the engine needs air and the engine bay can get hot. So I am thinking of making it airtight except for an air conduit that will lead to somewhere above the deck, like the cockpit. If it works the engine will breathe from outside the boat, but from inside the boat it will be completely sealed. I don't know where the conduit should open out to on the outside. Just under the companionway entrance would be easy, but could the cockpit get flooded? I don't know if the whole idea is a bad one.
is a doodad an imperial version of a metric thingymajig that we use? can never have too many on a boat.
Well being in the uk my doodads are metric bit I occasionally mix up my imperial with metric for comedic effect when something is cut to the wrong size!
What if need to change the sender?
Not easy but it would be a case of drain tank and then unscrew it from the bulkhead to get the clearance needed to replace it. Not ideal but fortunately they have proven to be very reliable (at least I have not had any fail in use so far).
I snickered. 😉 Did you say the tank volume is 60 L?
Haha, good we are on the same level. Yes it’s a bit over 60L (based on how much I have poured in and the indicated level on the sender so that all tallies. And bigger and it physically would not fit though the opening for the cockpit locker. These boats only have small engines so that’s a decent amount of range and double the capacity of the tank removed.
Easy fix for those "critics" (sun glasses) - alt, cntrl, delete..............
George, sprechen sie Deutsch?
No, not the way my brain is wired. Good at many things but languages I have always struggled with.
@@RefitandSail , I only remember enough high school German to get me in trouble. 😉
@@ELCADAROSA😂 I know what you mean 😉
M8...gloves...;)