Hi Kevin, great to see you posting again! Miss this stuff. But, I understand and truly apprciate the prioritization of getting the bikes done.. there's gonna be lots of happy owners riding awesome bikes soon!
Kevin I have a 2016 tri glide I'm thinking tork cams what all would you suggest to go with that. I'm after engin life. Also how many miles would you think I could get out of this 103 it now has 4000 on it thank you
Hi Kevin, I love your videos but it got past me on how you keep the valves in without springs & everything. Help me understand, please. What did I miss?
I put a 110 big bore kit on my 2011 96cu S&S 585 easy start cam adjustable push rods Fueller lifters New highflow oil pump cam plate all new bearings I change the valve springs to compensate for the 585 cams but I did not change the heads I also put a fuel pack from Vansen Hines on it it’s all been programmed My question is when I stay at a steady speed it acts like it’s fluttering needs more gas did I make the mistake by not changing the heads to a 110 if this question if this is not allowed please delete thank you
If I went with the billet head with larger valves would I have to increase the 50mm throttle body. What is the cost difference of porting and rebuilding my heads to that of the new billet heads?
@@KevinBaxter makes sense, so if one is planning a build on a newer engine is it a good bet to budget for a better pair of heads instead of using the stock ones?
Very interesting about the alloy change and the thin spot. I recently picked up a very low mileage and very stock 2011 FLHTK. So I've been researching cams, exhaust, ect. Headwork is on my research list as well, so this has me concerned about the stock heads' longevity. Because the way that looks to me, it creates an uneven clamping force. Would a guy be better off with aftermarket heads?
I could tram in the mill and use a fly cutter or face mill of course, but quite often, my mill is fixtured for other operations. For me, this method is quicker. Also, with MLS head gaskets, I prefer a continuous phonographic finish that a lathe can provide. Additionally, I have more consistency and control over achieving the desired RA finish on the lathe. Most MLS gaskets can seal at a 60-70 RA. 30-50 is more of an average of acceptable. The smoother the better...but with the lathe, i can get it down to 20-30 consistently. Getting into single digits and teens would be awesome...but near impossible.
Thanks Kevin, I had to leave briefly to take a phone call but I enjoyed watching this later.
Hello Kevin, nice to see you back 👍🤠
I knew I recognized this footage perks of being a channel member awsome recap
Yes sir. Members get 1st view, live, questions answered, and full unedited with 'shop talks' like this. Thanks for your support bud.
@@KevinBaxter not a problem man proud to be part of the group for almost a year now
Glad your back Sir.....
Thank you sir....glad to be back.
All the info was there !! The camera isn’t as bad as I thought 🤣. Did anyone else think it was gonna look like a VHS tape from the warning ⚠️ 🤣
I did this on my twin cam already. But I'm always into watching and learning
Glad to have you back enjoyed all of your tech videos tremendously. Wish I lived closer to you but I live on the other side of the USA
Thanks Kevin for the video.
Welcome back.
Hi Kevin, great to see you posting again! Miss this stuff. But, I understand and truly apprciate the prioritization of getting the bikes done.. there's gonna be lots of happy owners riding awesome bikes soon!
Looks good brother
I appreciate it
Good to see some contents
Thanks for sharing Kevin ! I appreciate the work you do … might need a Skunkworks
Love watching your videos Kevin ... Super informative to say the least !!!!
Love anything you put out.
Great information as always. 👍👍👍
brilliant love your work. watching in OZ and learning plenty. its a pleasure to watch thank you. Ken
Thanks 👍
Thankyou for this machining video really informative! It
Great info and video!! Thank you!
Thanks Sir .
Fantastic
Hey Kevin where did you get your 100 ml tube and set up at
Very interested in the casting issues
Kevin I have a 2016 tri glide I'm thinking tork cams what all would you suggest to go with that. I'm after engin life. Also how many miles would you think I could get out of this 103 it now has 4000 on it thank you
Hi Kevin, I love your videos but it got past me on how you keep the valves in without springs & everything. Help me understand, please. What did I miss?
nice catch!
I put a 110 big bore kit on my 2011 96cu S&S 585 easy start cam adjustable push rods Fueller lifters New highflow oil pump cam plate all new bearings I change the valve springs to compensate for the 585 cams but I did not change the heads I also put a fuel pack from Vansen Hines on it it’s all been programmed My question is when I stay at a steady speed it acts like it’s fluttering needs more gas did I make the mistake by not changing the heads to a 110 if this question if this is not allowed please delete thank you
I replaced my Compinsator on my 2010 Superglide C. When i removed the inner Primary i was really shocked at how poorly machined it was.
What do you like to set your quench distance at? Can it be done with the cylinder to case gasket, head gasket, machining or both?
Is there reason to using a lathe to change deck height vs using a planer?
Kevin, you do that for every head that gets worked on, porting, polishing, valve job?
Yes sir. If a basic rebuild, we may skim it slightly just to get a fresh surface for the head gasket.
Does the billet head have more room for intake and exhaust flow than a modified stock head or is it just stronger?
Our billet head allows for larger valves and is a much stronger base material by which to machine.
If I went with the billet head with larger valves would I have to increase the 50mm throttle body. What is the cost difference of porting and rebuilding my heads to that of the new billet heads?
Interesting on the head change, any idea why it changed?
I have to believe, but can't say with certainty, the alloy changed or something in the casting process.
@@KevinBaxter makes sense, so if one is planning a build on a newer engine is it a good bet to budget for a better pair of heads instead of using the stock ones?
@@KevinBaxter The alloy is listed next to the casting number IE 242T5 or 332, T5 being heat treat or conditioning statement
👍
Very interesting about the alloy change and the thin spot. I recently picked up a very low mileage and very stock 2011 FLHTK. So I've been researching cams, exhaust, ect. Headwork is on my research list as well, so this has me concerned about the stock heads' longevity. Because the way that looks to me, it creates an uneven clamping force. Would a guy be better off with aftermarket heads?
Why not use a mill ?
I'm a mill machinist so maybe I'm biased
I could tram in the mill and use a fly cutter or face mill of course, but quite often, my mill is fixtured for other operations. For me, this method is quicker. Also, with MLS head gaskets, I prefer a continuous phonographic finish that a lathe can provide. Additionally, I have more consistency and control over achieving the desired RA finish on the lathe. Most MLS gaskets can seal at a 60-70 RA. 30-50 is more of an average of acceptable. The smoother the better...but with the lathe, i can get it down to 20-30 consistently. Getting into single digits and teens would be awesome...but near impossible.
Another great informative video.