Selecting a Triple Output Power Supply
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- Опубліковано 19 гру 2019
- This video presents the tracking power supply which can be found commonly in a dual output or Triple Output Power Supply. I go over the selection criteria that you might want to use to select your power supply.
Link to Siglent SPD3303: amzn.to/2EDrTst
Link to Keysight E3631A: amzn.to/2EFLCaV
Link to Rigol DP832: amzn.to/2riSrw8
Link to Dr. Meter PS: amzn.to/2PKL9dX
Link to Tek Power: amzn.to/2PJfY2E
Link to GW Instek: amzn.to/2ZattLT
You can support this channel with this link to Patreon - I really do appreciate your support?
Patreon.com/KissAnalog - Наука та технологія
Thanks Eddie, for a wonderful way to spend a Sunday.
Your video took us from the Knobs&Dials thru' Pushbuttons&7Segments to Pushbuttons&LCDPanels in half an hour. Cheers.
That was very helpful in selecting a Power Supply, but not in the way you would think : I hated them ALL ! ...but they give you ideas.
They are probably great for testing Medical/Aero-Space Equipment or Weapon Guidance Systems, but for ZVS drives, H-bridges, Audio-Power-Amps, etc, I think it is best we configure our own. How about Battery-Charger/Engine-Starter/welding-Inverter for the Back-End; followed by serious LC , and a custom Front-End using individual Red/Blue Amp/Volt meters OR docks for multiple Multimeters, with MCB/Electronic-Crowbar/Emergency-Off Red Switch.....IOW, the Fish Menu was nice, but please teach us fishing ! ;-)
PS : I liked the videos you have already made on Power-Supplies components, I need to see them again, all together.
LOL There’s so much to do - it will be a fun road - and I hope to pick up the production. Amazing how much time it takes behind the scenes - but I’m getting it down...
Thank you - I am always happy to hear from #BR Buranandan! You are awesome!
Thanks again! Just purchased RIGOL DP831, but I need more time in 24hs, so I can make a video. Have a great day, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! Also lots of subscribers to you in 2020!
Tony Fleming Thank you Tony! I will be interested in hearing your thoughts on the a Rigol once you have time to play with it.
@@KissAnalog So far it is great, but I must get some serious tests before making video.
Tony Fleming That’s a great start;)
Great video Eddie. Over time I purchased quite some PSUs for all kinds of purposes and for my three "work bench test & measuring slots" ... My top favourite PSU is an Aim TTi PL303QMT-P device with three full-blown linear PSUs combined into a single housing (usually very expensive around 1,400 EUR but I got it at amazon brand-spanking new for just 400 EUR some months ago). Two units can do 30 V, 3A, the third unit can do 6V, 8A - with all the modes like master/slave, independent, isolated, tracking, parallel. I also have an Aim TTi PL-303-P single unit for 30V, 3A. These guys are high precision, low ripple devices and of remarkable build quality with very silent fans. I also have Siglent's SPD3303X-E (the one you showed in your review) and SPD1168X (for up to 16V, 8 A) which are pretty decent, well made, programmable too, and come in a pretty small form factor. As the fans in these guys are too loud for my ears, I have exchanged the fans by some equivalent Nocuta silent fans. Works perfect. Both Siglent PSUs are very nice devices with some cool features for my daily operation. Using the "times" function on the Siglent's allows to program a table with 5 steps (voltage and amperage setting and for how long each step shall last) in the device, using the PC software one can do as many steps as needed.
Finally on the low price range I also have a few RND Lab rebranded Korad PSUs KA3005D (a few of those), KA3305P (triple outputs) and a PeakTech 6225A (very small form factor, slim but quite powerful, up to 30V, 5A, there is a model available than can do up to 10A). I bought a couple of the cheap Korads and did a bit of modding by adding a PWM temperature controlled fan control making this device very silent on all amp ranges and re-sold them with a little margin :) All devices described here come with OVP and OCP.
Wow! It sounds like you have acquired a nice bench full of power supplies;)
Thanks for sharing - this is the stuff that helps others decide on which direction to go. Thank you!
Great video, only one model shown with a common to go +or- to zero. To many models with poor descriptions as to their green or yellow terminal being zero or ground. Wish you had brought that up, maybe next time.
dim bulb That’s a great point - thanks dim bulb!
Hi Eddie, awesome video. Thank you.
versace885 Thank you - I appreciate you!
Great info. Nice video!
Thanks for the support!
Great video and great subject! I think you, combined, have made your best editing and filming to date. I.e. when you change cables at your GW-Instek, you speed up some of the times, while changing cables, that have you done almost invisible and non destracting. Also your change of framing on your power supply's, is wary well made, again non detracting. Also your usage of your PDA is well framed and is in a size so you almost can feel they are of the same size and feel as those you do own in reality.
Also your explanation is flowing really good, it's like you are burning a bit more for the subject. I do also like your explanation on that the Agilent may be of better quality but also lack in current for many types of usage.
Over all in total, one of your best filmed and edited videos!! :-)
Fried Mule Thanks Fried Mule! That’s a great compliment coming from you! It is crazy how much work the post processing takes... you have been a bi help!!
@@KissAnalog I think you give me to much credit, you have experimented a lot and have in that way learned a lot and is getting better by yourself:-)
LOL post processing can be a great deal of work, but only until you find a standard you choose to use, then do it get routine and fairly fast. :-)
My rule of thumb, when making a documentary, is that it takes:
1 hour recording for every 5 minute of finished video. 4 hours planning for every hour of recording. Or 1 hour work per finished minute. On top of that comes editing and so on and dependent on your speed, plan on using 5 min for every minute.
You are not making a documentary, so you can use fare less but yes it's still time consuming!! :-)
Fried Mule Those time outlines sound right on target - unfortunately;) It also seems that it’s not linear for me - the longer it is there’s a bit more time added;) Right now I’m trying to decide on a screen capture program. One is about 8x the price but easier to use...
@@KissAnalog Before buying, please take a look at this free program, I have used it a lot and I think it's wary easy to use.
Select the Express version: www.flashbackrecorder.com/express/#Express
Sometimes I have to go back and search videos for comments that I haven’t seen - I need to see why UA-cam doesn’t find me these in my front page. Thanks for the tip;)
Jeez, knew James Hetfield was in electric guitars, just didn't know he was in power supplies ;-)
Great vid btw, thanks for helping out
LOL Thank you! I appreciate you!!
Yet to see the video, but the title sparks this question. Sorry Eddie, but kindly oblige.
Out of all the DSOs you have, which has a battery-socket or could be hacked to run off an external battery?
(Am I right in thinking that this would make it safer to connect the scope to mains circuits)
BR Gurunandan I do have a battery operated Tektronix, and yes it is a bit safer as it is unique and actually has both channels isolated from one another. In general, if you tie both scope probes ground wire to chassis ground then your scope should be safe. To be sure, before you plug the device you are testing, check the ohms between the ground prong and the point you plan to connect your scope grounds to - to be sure they are the same point.
Does the slave side provide negative voltage when in tracking mode? 12V+ Master, -12V Slave? By the way, I purchased two Siglent power supplies including the one you discussed; both would not boot. I initially liked the Siglent stuff thinking they provided great value, but no longer.
Brad Rich WOW - that is not good to hear!! Yes the slave outputs generally are the negative output. The slave positive output is tied to the return of the master and this is used as the return or ground, so the normally used return of the slave is the negative output.
Nice and interesting video on how to use multi output PSU's, and I have a question in that regard:
I have a HP 8647A signal generator with a broken SMPS. This is supposed to deliver +5 Volts/2A, +15V, -15V and +38V to power the generator. Could I use say 2 dual output bench PSU's together to power this unit instead of the built in PSU?
Hello Geir, so I understand, you have this signal generator, but are you saying that the HP gen has an issue, or you are not getting the power that you want? You could use your dual output to supply 2of the voltages, but you call out +5, +/- ww15, and a.38V, so that’s 4 voltages. Can you provide more information? Best regards,
Ed
@@KissAnalog hi, yes that's correct. The PSU in the generator is dead. I'm trying to fix it, but without a service manual it's hard. It uses 4 voltages yes. So I was considering the option of powering it from some external unit(s).
Thank's for your answer.
Geir Endre Jenssen You could try repairing the the power supply. Check the lager parts first like rectifier diodes and transistors for shorts. If you try connecting a different power supply to each output, if there’s a damaged part, you may just further damage the board. You could try taking ohm measurements at each voltage to ground to see if there’s a pert shorted to ground. Please have the power cord disconnected from power when taking any ohm measurement.
@@KissAnalog I'm trying to repair it. Have replaced 1 shorted Triac, 1 Zener a rectifier and 2 transistors. That didn't help. I replaced all the large elektrolytics, that didn't help eighter. Next I will replace the remaining film capacitors.
Geir Endre Jenssen Film caps are pretty reliable. Try ohm checking resistors to see if one fused, and any diode and transistor. This stuff is usually easy to ohm out. Are you able to power it up to see what voltages come up?
I am embarrassed to ask this question. I have a GW Instek triple power supply and have not been able to figure out our to get dual voltage (+12 -12) out. I believe parallel is selected but not sure what terminal jacks to use? Thanks
Hey Brad - glad to help. Put them in series for tracking plus and minus outputs. The master output will be your positive output voltage and the return side is the return for both output voltages. The slave return will be your negative output. The slave positive is tied internally to the master negative for the return. Make sense? Check this out: ua-cam.com/video/JxRge8OFzdc/v-deo.html
@@KissAnalog So I use the two minus jacks on the two supplies for negative voltage?
Us the +out for your positive rail and the -out for your ground, then the second ps output; use the -out for your negative rail and connect the corresponding +out to the -out of the first ps - which is your ground. So think of the 2 ps outputs like 2 batteries connected in series (+ bat1 - to + bat2 -: positive out - gnd - negative out). I’ll do a quick video and post tomorrow;)
@@KissAnalog Thanks! I finally found the positive and negative rails. The Instek manual had nothing about this.
Wow, I’m surprised. I’m glad that you got it worked out.
Pick a meter...or two.
LOL thanks for the comment!
Hi Eddie, I have to say for me, Fried Mule said it best. Awesome video.
Never mind your triple tracking marketing BS, my PSU goes up to 11. Beat that! :)
The GW-Instek and Dr Meter supplies are probably based on the same design; I very recently won a Tenma triple PSU with series/parallel and a fixed 5V output - looks different, but works exactly the same way. I suspect they are all built on the same open source design. That Rigol though - couldn't have that on my bench, it is one ugly looking supply! The Siglent looks annoying to use: I much prefer analog controls for controlling output rather than push buttons. I'd also get tired really quickly having to switch the display between Amps and Volts - unlike the GW-Instek, the Tenma will show both, for both variable channels, simultaneously. Makes for a bigger box though. You really do want to have a button to turn output on/off - much easier than pulling the plugs (it would be interesting to see a waveform of the output when you do that!) Then I suppose output: although the Keysight only has 1A, how much more, realistically, do you need - I don't know for sure, but most hobbyist, bench stuff is likely to in mA, it's when you get into things like motors you'd want more. I guess what I mean is, it seems popular right now for supplies to be 30V/5A and you see messages asking for that all the time and yet that's likely to be a real extreme use case for most people I would think. I could be wrong - at the end of the day the one I built is 0-15V/0-3A so don't listen to me!!
You didn't mention anything about output noise. What would you consider the max specs for this to qualify as a 'decent' supply?
Nice video - perhaps you could show the circuit for how current-/voltage-limiting works? At it's most basic they are self limiting based on load right? Ohms law and all that. But I bet that the internals of these linear supplies are a bit more complicated than that.
Andrew Johnson Hi Andrew - thanks for sharing this. Sounds like you are set for Power Supplies! I do like a knob on a power supply and I do wish my GW Instek had a output on/off button. I am reviewing a PS board and it’s output is not very clean, so I’ll talk about the noise and/or ripple. Regarding the output power, if you are working with audio power amplifiers then the higher current is nice.