Low Cost 1000Watt Bench Power Supply RD6018
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- Опубліковано 30 сер 2021
- This video introduces a 1000Watt plus Lab Power Supply. It is a Riden Kit that comes with the controller front panel which is a buck converter and the case as well as the wire and components to finish the kit. There is also an AC/DC power supply that is needed to supply the power.
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Part 1 of this video: • FLIR vs FLUKE High-End...
Link to Kaiweets Power Supply at Amazon: amzn.to/32GQtFU
Link to thermal imaging camera: amzn.to/2ZHMAyD
Links to other Multimeters:
FLIR DM92 multimeter: amzn.to/2ztKOXI
FLIR DM93 multimeter: amzn.to/3ebyASF
Amprobe AM570 multimeter link: amzn.to/3eurd8S
Fluke 117 multimeter link: amzn.to/2AhsEbA
Amazon Commercial 90DM030 multimeter: amzn.to/2Jl9yCT
Popular Links:
Micro-cap Tutorials playlist link: Micro-Cap • Micro-Cap
Boost Converter Introduction • Boost Converter Introd...
Power supply talk: • Power Supply Types and...
Link to Amazon for Boost Converter: amzn.to/32HOEFsY - Наука та технологія
"Don't turn it on, take it apart!" seemed to be the motto for that day! 🙂👍
LOL thanks!!
I've seen all the videos covering this power supply already showing everything you need to know, so this time you haven't shared anything new to me but I still watched the whole video because I like you and the work you do and I wanted to see what you have to tell about the power supply anyway.
Keep up the good work Eddie.
Thank you Ricardo! I appreciate you! I cut out a lot of minutes because it was just too long;) I decided to do a deep dive and clean up some noise as well in a follow up video.
Wow happy to c 🤩
Finally you are review rd6018 series 👌
Thank you!! ;)
I have this model for past 2+ years and I love this power supply! It was easy to assemble and fun to assemble it. Thanks again for sharing with us.
Thanks for the great feedback Tony!! Is your fan as load as mine?
@@KissAnalog No, my fan isn't loud and it has 63.5V so I can get 60V out! I use these power supplies a lot and some are over the stated voltage and some aren't! But 5V in your case isn't much of a problem.
@@tonysfun Tony are you getting 18 amps at 60 volts continuous from this supply?
@@mosfet500 I have not tested it, but I don't think I can get 18A out of it. But I don't ever need more than 5A in my projects so far, sorry.
It was way cheaper 2 /3 years ago. i got it (complete) for 70 euros, almost 3 yrs ago.
Thanks will go and look for it! That's really awesome. Appreciate it.
Thank you for your feedback!!
Hi Eddie, another great video. Thank you
Glad you enjoyed it;) I appreciate you!
I have a different version of this. I often don't need more than 12V @ 4-5A. So got one powered by a CUI 5A 24V adapter. It's been working great for my needs.
Thanks for this great idea! That is great and shows how flexible these things are;)
Great video!
Thanks Jordan!
Great review thanks 👍🏻
Thank you!
Now you know why the rest of the world uses 250V! Damn Edison and his FUD!
I have the RD6006 and frankly that is all the power I'll ever need, but I cannot believe how far they've pushed the power with the same physical design. I have the bulk PSU mounted on the wall under the bench and the RD6006 wall mounted above the bench. I'm trying to use all test equipment this way to avoid it's depth crowding me off the bench as it does yours! One reason I really like the Micsig scope!
One oddity with these units is that there is a mechanical relay inside, but this is only used for charge termination, not when you switch the output off manually or on a protection trip. I cannot understand why they do not use the relay to cut the output faster. Also worth noting that the RD unit is not isolated, so you can't use two RD units on one bulk supply for dual rail.
Great feedback John!! Very helpful;)
@@zoom_h2625 The RD60xx is a synchronous buck converter (not isolated). The negative side of its input is connected to the negative output terminal. It depends on the bulk PSU for isolation. Eddie has used a switch-mode unit for this. Jerry used a linear PSU. Neither of them could get a dual rail unit using a common bulk PSU because this would result in the two RD60xx units having their negative output terminals connected together.
I saw Jerry's video before and did not understand what he was trying to achieve. For a hybrid PSU you want a switch-mode bulk converter with a linear final stage to finesse the output. Jerry's configuration is the wrong way round and gives the worst of both worlds. Just imagine the size of the transformers and capacitor banks scaled up to three times the power for the RD6018!
You are correct. 60 volts can not only hurt you, it can stop the heart very quickly.
Thank you. That's above what the call the SELV voltage (Safe Electrical Low Voltage).
Very nice setup. I just ordered the RD6024 with a 36v 1000w supply that has a thermal controlled fan. Looking forward to building it.
Thanks! Sounds great - let us know.
Have you got the 6024 up and running? How is it? I was planning on ordering the 6018 earlier today, and I saw the 6024 was available from the same seller so I ordered that instead.
I was thinking of buying one of these for a while now, I sometimes need higher power and this supply also has the advantage of a removable front panel so I can also make it a portable field lab PSU with a battery pack.
Great points! Thank you!
THAT's IMPRESSIVE!!!!!!! ...totally agree :)
Thanks Steven! I have to get back on this and get me a twin;) I do like this power supply!
That's a good video, Someone needs to make one of these but with dual rails that are adjustable from 0-60v at 1000watts.. THEN i would be in heaven !
Thanks! I totally agree;)
Get two of these and hook them up together to make a dual rail
I love these Riden units, have the 6012p and the 6024. It's a good thing you didn't take off for a piss, or your place would have burned down!
LOL - thanks;)
One thing that I have noticed is, that the switching mode power supply (AC/DC) does not have a PFC. Powersupplys at this level of power should definitely have one. That's typical for power supplys from China or cheaper ones
Maybe you could have explained the topology of the power supply a little bit. (The coil on the secondary side is not only for filtering. It stores the energy in one halfcicle. The smaller winding on the secondary coil is not for current sensing. It's some kind of secondary and powers the fan.
In conclusion a great Video👍
Thanks Jack! I agree about the PFC, I was surprised! I actually cut out about 25 min or more as this video got really long;) I guess I cut out the part where I talked about finding a PS with a PFC front end and LLC output. I want better power factor and softer switching;)
Yeah, a Meanwell power supply will have active power factor correction. The generic unit here doesn't, which is why the apparent power is so high (and the cost is so low).
Been using this RD 60XX models for at least 2 years now.I simply love them, specially at their pricepoint, although they shot up in price very much.
Thanks! I was going to buy a second one but you are right - the price just kept climbing. Seems really nice though.
Hey Eddie, Riden (RD Tech) posted a snip of this video a few hours ago. I like their stuff. Match it with quality Meanwell PSUs and you've got a nice adjustable PSU.
Thanks so much Boyd! I agree - these seem to be great bench power supplies.
Thanks Eddie, great review as usual.
I'm wondering if you looked for overshoot with your probe voltage lower on AC and the horizontal spread out more if you would see something you might be missing at the current settings.
That's a great question, but I think the ramp time was so slow that it just doesn't overshoot. But as someone else pointed out, a great way to find overshoot is by stepping the load. I'll have to do another video looking into how solid this output is over various operating parameters;)
A more difficult test for these power supplies is to switch the load instead of the source to check for overshoot, etc. This is especially difficult if the load is reactive. Some supplies will overshoot badly in such conditions due to the output capacitance of the supply itself, though the Riden (Rui Deng) supplies usually do acceptably well.
Thanks Rob for the great suggestion! I think I'll do a followup and compare it to the big HP linear that I have;)
I've got the same RD6018W but it'll be run from a Huawei R4850G2 with rectifier module and can-bus controller. Overkill but it'll allow multiple frontends from a single supply.
At the moment I'm using a smaller psu with this frontend but the R4850G2 is there I just have to setup my "man cave" better this xmas with more power outlets etc mount TV, stereo etc on the wall to give more floor space, put my servers in the built-in cupboard and run some cables with wall plates etc etc busy Xmas holidays this year....... I got wildly off topic 🤷♂️ love the RD6018W is my point.
Wow, thanks for that feedback!
Just like Davey Jones. "Don't turn it on; take it apaaaaht!" 😁
LOL love it!
The cable says 0.5 mm², which is area, not diameter. This is about 20 AWG in the US. In Europe and many other parts of the world cables, cords and wires are commonly marked with mm², we don't use the AWG system at all. Common sizes for power cords with IEC C13 plugs are 1 mm² (17 AWG) for 10 A and 0.75 mm² (18 AWG) for up to 6 A. Current rating might vary among manufacturers and cord lengths and might also vary somewhat between 120 V and 230 V systems. It's a good point though that you shouldn't connect a random cord to a power supply, check the wire gauge first.
Thanks for this great feedback Johanh! Yes, that is what I showed in the video, the cord that was heated was only 20 AWG. You are so right - random cords can be dangerous. Always check the rating or size of the cable.
The protective covers sometimes improve readability by decreasing glare, so it can be better to simply leave them on. It depends on the materials and viewing angles.
That is a terrific point Rob! Thank you!
Thank you sir for another informative & well done video! Is the power supply that comes with the RD6018W(Whole machine) from your Amazon link for $199.99 the same as yours? If not, what is the model of the power supply you purchased?
Though Max at turn on is a useful measurement, the HT206 doesn't have a true Inrush mode, so Max will only show a portion of the inrush depending upon the meter's standard time resolution. Max is not the same as Inrush, even though commenters sometimes have angrily told me otherwise ;). To get a better Inrush measurement on a Habotest (Hototech) meter, you have to jump up to their HT208 series.
Even then, it's hard to know what the resolution actually is or what standard we should use for inrush mode. Fluke's present-day standard is to take 400 samples over a 100ms period after the sampling is triggered by some rise in current. The 100ms may start as soon as current rises above some hysteresis point above or below 0, but that's unclear. The important bit is that we take measurements multiple times per millisecond, which Max mode on budget meters will certainly not do. Still, Max is good enough for many purposes; I'm not arguing that it's not.
Thanks for this great feedback! I agree with you that max and inrush are different modes for the meter, and some have both which maybe proves your case;) Although, some measurements both modes will capture near the same thing as you point out in the sampling time. An inrush is typically a really cool feature added to more expensive meters. Maybe you get arguments from Fluke guys who often don't have inrush unless they paid for one of the better meters;) Here's a video that I did on 5 different Kaiweets meters: ua-cam.com/video/C9ni4_bLpR8/v-deo.html
man I LOVE your videos! is there any chance you could do a review of some budget benchtop mutimeters? I'm looking to buy one but I don't know where to start. I presume a benchtop meter should have more room for electronics and therefor even a cheaper one should be able to compete with a fluke multimeter. I was looking in the sub $250 price range. I have a fluke 101 but I just love the idea of a benchtop multimeter especially if it affords greater accuracy.
Thank you Michael! I sure will;) I was going to respond sooner but wanted to bookmark this suggestion first so I wouldn't lose it.
Waiting for the dissection of the failed "10A" cable. What was the actual gauge?
With all your equipment you can drive 5 amps DC through the cable and measure the heat dissipated per meter or per surface area of the cable enclosure.
Does the dc dc power supply save the previous setting for output volts etc and kick straight back in when you turn it off and on again. Or do you need to manually hit power start or turn the volts and amps knobs back up again. Figuring if it would be suitable to smooth out the fairly erratic voltage output from a wind turbine. Which can go to zero quite often so the psu would turn off... But would it turn back on when the wind turbine spins again and puts back out power to it.. Many thanks
Hi Eddy, Nice Video as Always! What did the whole PSU (Casing, AC/DC Converter & Frontplate with DCDC costed ?
Seeing the 2 Big DO-xxx Diodes near the Switching Transistors, it seems to be a 2 Switch Forward Topology. There are some Teardowns of Similar 1kW ACDC Supplies, The Brand Input Caps are mostly "Repurposed ones" , etc.
Cheers,Konstantin
Thanks for this great feedback! Nice eye - and I think you might be correct on the 2 switch Forward;) I want to get an LLC with PFC front end for this;)
I kinda wanted the RK 6006, plug it up to a ATX PSU's 12v rail and get out of it cheap. I think I'm going to go with the Korad KA3005D. Linear supply, quite a bit more money but I'll get a way better supply.
Nice video Eddie :) Have you ever felt the need to use a linear power supply instead of a switched one and, if so, what was the case ?
Thank you Adrian! This is a great question! I would use a linear if I were doing a sensitive test where I wanted absolutely no noise - like maybe in a mic amplifier. It would be interesting though - to test a low noise switcher just to see if it is actually any worse than the linear;)
Is there a way to control the front panel with a i2c or PWM control input?
What pinout connections are there where the wifi module plugs into it?
Would it be possible to design a custom esp32 replacement that can
plug into the wifi module socket?
Can you reverse engineer that part of the system?
I'm using with telicom Rectifier which inbuilt pfc
That sounds like a good one;)
Brand Harmer & Simmons model SM2000
Very cool. I have been very happy with my 2 Kaiweets power supplies but this is pretty affordable for that much power. A BK Precision power supply that does 60V is around 600 bucks and you only get 3 amps. I have a question. Have you tried connecting this power supply up to your other 60V power supply in order to generate the positive and negative rails to power any of your amps? That is the main reason I'd buy this to really test some amps that can take more than my Kaiweets can supply. Can you please show a video doing that? I'd like to see how this power supply does under heavy load.
Thanks Tron - you are reading my mind;) I wanted to test one first to see if it was good enough to invest in a second one, but that is my ultimate goal - ha ha!
Hello, I have the same smps. What's the value of load resistor?
According to the color code of my, it is supposed to be 510 ohms, but when measured it shows 5 k. It gets pretty hot. Do you have any idea?
Not sure what load resistor you mean?
The supplier provided a resistor, which has to be connected to the output. They mention it helps to reduce noise.
ive just spent 2 hrs on amazon looking for this 1200w power supply. no luck =( can you post a link to it please? the link you provided to the "complete kit" only comes with an 800w power supply not a 1200 or even a 1000w.
Great video. I loved the detail, and your presentation is fun and inviting. I just ordered the RD6024 (1440w) with the 1000w power supply. I would certainly like to add any caps or resistors to make this unit be the best that it can be, but alas I'm unknowledgeable on the subject. I would greatly appreciate if you could address this topic. Subscribing by chance that you do. Thanks!
That's great Skyler's Vidz;) I appreciate you!
how about RD6024, it work well ?
@@rdtech9153 The unit has been great for me so far. Looking forward to future innovations from RD Tech.
@@pets4489 thank you very much, if you meet any questions when using it, just contact us
Hello, does this support a short circuit in the output?
Yes it does - but I'll have to do more testing in a video soon to come;)
"Let's fire it on"
"(bad choice of words)"
LMAO!
LOL thanks!
10A marking on a AC plug is a rating for a plug itself but not for a cable. It's considered to be safe to load up to 10A per 1 square mm of a wire cross section.
Thanks for the great feedback. On a molded plug, I'd think that the cable would be rated correctly too, but not always...
for 10A, 0.75mm2 is the absolute bare min and I'd not use anything lower than 1.5mm2 as 0.75 is likely to hit 40-45C over ambient at 10A. Btw, the plug is rated 10A but just the plug, itself.
Thanks for this great feedback! Yes, this can be an easy thing to overlook - until you see the smoke;)
Thanks for review these cheap equipment since it's budget good for most people. From your professional design experience of power supply, you said the component are pretty good, how reliable is the safety measure? (How large is the capacitor can say it's good, how many protection required?)
I was wondering that, as the caps are only 250v, and we have 230v AC in the UK. I don't think they are rated high enough for the UK.
I think they did a good job choosing components, and rating them properly. Now remember, for 230 V AC applications you need to slide the switch over which puts the capacitors in series.
@@KissAnalog Thank you, luckily I live in Hong Kong already in 220V, power up in 110V simply not working instead of blown up.
@@ianhaylock7409 The rating is OK but not good, I remember a guidebook say upper limit should be at least working voltage times 1.5 or 2 for spike or surge.
It doesn't seem to provide plus v, minus v and center tap (0v). Can you confirm?
That’s for the great question! No I will need to get a second one to do that. I’ll do a video on that once I get the second power supply.
I've been thinking about getting the 24 amp version of this PSU , what power supply would you recommend for it
Great question! What Riden PS do you want to buy? What power level are you looking for?
@@KissAnalog The Riden rd6024 so I will be looking for a 1500 watt 72 volt psu
the 10amp rating is only for the plug not for the cable itself
Thanks! I’m sure you are right;) I think this must have been a 5 Amp cord. Too bad they don’t label that on the cord. Should be a UL safety requirement.
took me until 2:23 to realise the power supply was on the table lol.
turns out it was a another one
LOL! Good eye;) I reshot parts of the video to shave off some minutes;)
Hey, why don't you stick in a tiny power supply and a flip flop driving a relay. so you can turn off/on the mains from the front panel. For power just gut a USB power adapter you probably have a ton of them.
LOL I wouldn't doubt someone has tried that;)
To get the wifi to work everything has to be on 2.4Ghz. The wifi in the power supply will be on 2.4Ghz. Your phone has to be on 2.4ghz to connect to power supply wifi. If you trying to do wifi connection on the computer it also has to be on 2.4Ghz. If you router can separate out 2.4Gz from 5gz with their on SSID then it should be easier. I find much easier to just use the UDS cable to connect to a computer.
Thank you for this great info! I’ll have to try that;)
Where is the Videl on cleaning up the ripple?
Thanks for asking. I've been planning to do that video forever. I actually was going to build a second one of these power supplies and then do it for both. I wanted a plus and minus supply. But I've had trouble finding the right AC/DC converter for it. I'll do that video very soon.
Can i use it as a short killer
7:40 Nope....the temp probe is not for "batteries"....It is to put on your internal powersupply, so it can regulate the fan in the back, in case it gets too hot.
Can they be daisy chained for 120v?
Great question! Yes I don't see a reason that they couldn't be placed in series and provide 120 V. I originally had wanted to build 2 of these - but then the prices went up and I couldn't find the power supply that I wanted. I'll have to resurrect this project so that I can demonstrate this.
Can you measure the noise? Just connect an AC-coupled scope to the DC output, and try some different resistor loads.
Thanks I did do that near the end of this video, but I deleted a bunch of it as it was getting too long. So, I plan to do a follow up deep dive in the noise and safety aspects;)
@@KissAnalog That would be great, I would really like to reduce the noise. Also another video suggested putting a 100 nf capacitor across the post connections. When he put it on a scope it really seemed to help. Would that be better than a resistor or would using a combination be optimal. In the video I just referred to he connected the capacitor at the circuit board of the controller where the posts are connected. Is this better than putting the capacitor across the actual power supply. I know power supply's are one of your strengths so your advice would really be appreciated. Like you said at this price the unit is fantastic, but it would be nice to minimize the noise.
Answered part of my own question. The resistor I saw on one of the videos was for the lower power supplies they provide with some kits that are loud when "Unloaded". The 1000w supply I ordered does not appear to have that problem, so all I need is a recommended capacitor to help reduce output ripple and where it is best to place it.
Bench power supply -- just add power supply 😂
LOL - you are right:)
0.5 mm cable in the US is a fire hazard at the amps the US requires for modest powered stuff. No ability to downrate the plug fuse either, because there isn't one.
I agree - thanks John!
Note that the "10A" refers to the rating of the *plug*, not the wire. 0.5mm wire, assuming they are referring to cross-section and not diameter, is 20AWG, which might be able to carry 10A but has no safety margin to speak of (it's probably 60°C insulation too) as evidenced by the smoke in the video.
What is the efficiency of the supply?
Great question! I’ll have to test that!
Right next to the needle nose pliers is an open space for something....
LOL I’ll find something for that spot;)
Thanx for your vids and most importantly, having a sense of humor.
The cost in Canadian dollars in March 2024 on sale from Banggood for the control module, the power supply and the separate box is $290 then taxes and border charges. Ain’t worth the money. Much better options out there.
Thanks for this info. In the US you can get this for $208.50 USD. So I think for a 950 Watt output power supply with 60 V and 18 Ams - that's not bad.
@@KissAnalog The exchange rate says the same. $208.50 US = $283.55 Canadian. Still isn’t worth it. Thanks for the videos and the quick reply. Much appreciated. 👍🍻
I bought RD6018 with WiFi but without power supply because I have my heart set on Meanwell brand and I went on EBay and bought
MW model HRPG 450 Watt , 48 Volt
Cannot find one for 60 Volt but my
Ryobi lithium battery is 40 (42) volt
which is the highest voltage I ever need now
I got WiFi to work with Apple iPhone 12,
Yes you have to know the IP address, but
WiFi is not practical to use anyway.
This is my to go DC power supply from now on. The Green outlet Jack to charge the battery is the only problem I have, sometime work sometime is cut off for no reasons ! ??
So, I use the red outlet Jack from now on.
I set my teen son up with a RD6018 on a 48 volt MW. it's all he will ever need, and it will not permanently injure him should he make a mistake.
Most people have no idea how dangerous 60 volts really is...
I'm getting into lithium batteries would you recommend this for a way to charge /test a pack? thinking at 15ish amp it would take a while
I think it might be a great way to do it. How big are your packs?
@@KissAnalog To start with will be 48v 280 amh pack just trying to figure out the best way to charge /test them. I have a East tester (ET4510 ) coming thought it would charge and discharge but think now its more a load tester. So I'll need to charge them all I have is a 24v 16amp power supply atm Ideas please
"One hung low" Caps on the output.
The best - right:) It is hard to know how good any are as they really are.
it would be nice if this unit had a handle on the top
Thanks for the comment;) Yes a handle could be useful. Sometimes they get in the way when you stack something on it though;)
great work, thank you for your introduction for that. I like that , but I have to say some things
1, for file code, there is the code on file name
2, this input PSU is too bad. as manufacturer, we recommended some input PSU at official shop, the quality is best.
but your PSU is too bad, output voltage is not stable too , and it can't be adjust to 65V. becuse RD6018 is step-down power supply, input voltage must be higher 1.1 times than output voltage. so when you input 60V, you can't set 59v output , understand now ?
3, for phone APP, if you still can't connect , please let me know , I can teach you
BTW, if you use a better PSU, it will be best
Thank you! I understand exactly what you are saying. I just can’t seem to find a good power supply for it. I’m tempted to design one. Do you have any suggestions? Also I want to build a second unit so that I can use them for audio where I need a plus and minus output. I showed how I use 2 Kaiweets power supplies to do this. Kind of a way to do what a tracking power supply would do but the operator has to dial each power supply up together.
@@KissAnalog sorry for this, I do not have good suggestions according to your needs
You don't have a power supply that you can recommend?
@@KissAnalog sorry, because normally we often to recommend what we test already, if we do not test, we do not recommend
I think power supply is 2 switch forward and it is very similar Diodegonewild's 24v 1000w version the board is very similar and the windongbprobably for fan to derive some voltage because fan probably 12 or 24 volt m.ua-cam.com/video/mxl7ymOSvho/v-deo.html (here is the video i talked about)
Did Ali Express change their name to Amazon? Seriously, what happened there. Oh wait, remuneration is zero from AE
Thanks for the question. I like Amazon for the return policy and quick shipping. Also, I find buying from Amazon is more obvious what you are getting especially with this product - as there are so many options. Do you like Ali Express more? If so why? I'm genuinely interested. BTW, I do these reviews to help others build their benches. I can make a lot more consulting then making 1% from affiliate links. But it is nice when people use them of course.
LC halfbridge converter without pfc! It's wasted lots of power
I agree, an LLC converter should also have a PFC. Why not?
Poor America! Only 110 volts, but lots of amps. Bet you wish you had 240 volts? No need to have cables 1 inch thick.
LOL That's so true Michael;) But then again, that high voltage scares me;)
@@KissAnalog Greetings from 240 volt region and thanks for all your videos. Oh yeah, after visiting central america and their kamikaze showers i fully understand why they use 110 volts.
For all who don't know those showers: upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/0e/Chuveiro.JPG
If you feel it you have to slightly bend your knees. Something you wont forget ;)
@@z.brannigan9748 😱😱😱
Thing is, we do have 240 volts as well, homes here have a center tapped 240V feed. But 240V is only used for high power items (electric heaters, clothes dryers, kitchen stoves, etc). Things which don't have crazy power requirements use 120V, which is from one side of the transformer to the center tap.
The mains cable is an usual chinese joke.
LOL thanks!
I have a big box of battery powered tools without batteries , voltage from 12 to 20 volts, what spec power supply would I need to check them out, I presume they operate at higher amperage
This would be a great power supply. I think you would want at least 20V variable power supply and a current rating 4x higher than the power that tools are rated for - so it would cover spin up or turn on transient.
@@KissAnalog have you ever dealt with Aliexpress ?