F3 all the way. I specialise in F3 repairs and I have worked on more than 200 bodies now.. people are scared of the electronics, but I have seen more F2s with faulty meters than F3s with faulty boards. The speeds on the F3 are much more precise as they are electronically controlled (1/1000 and below). Generally both cameras are awesome, but the F3 feels way more refined in my opinion, it also sits much better in the hand. I don't even want to comment on the battery requirements of the F3 to shoot at all speeds - these are so cheap and last for a couple of years, one can always throw an additional pair of batteries in their backpack.
@@pauuuuul87 You are absolutely right about the FRE resistor - bulky flashes can crack it. Also, I forgot to mention that the display is the Achilles heel of the F3, but I and James Holman from ICTCamera found a way to fix them without replacing the display itself. It turns out that the polarising filters are to blame and just by swapping the two polarisers the display gets as good as new. :))
I've shot with both F2 and F3 cameras extensively over the years, both are excellent tough cameras that, "get the job done", with no fuss. My choice goes with the F2. I currently shoot with an F2 Titan (native eye-level finder). It is a no-nonsense camera that never lets me down. No batteries required. I call it, "rugged, stylish, simplicity".
I had a like new F3HP and a like new F2. I preferred the F3 over the F2 until I bought a non metered eye level prism for the F2. Once I did that I quickly realized I would never touch the F3 again and sold it.
Theoretically the F2 models open up more options as it uses non AI lenses onwards without much worry about metering (provided lens has the rabbit ears). F3 can use non AI but you need to remember to flip down the metal part at the lens mount. You can always use stop down metering (with the button) on both models.
I had an F2, F3, and an FM3a. I just sold the F2 just for the weight and my back :) I loved shooting it though. I think it has the nicest feel out of all three. The F3 has the best wind on lever though. The FM3A is the best on paper and i love the match needle and 4000 speed but having to have the wind on lever out is annoying when you are left-eye dominant. If the F3 were the weight of me Fm3a i'd be happy out. But yeah, these cameras are jsut tanks and I love them all. Thanks for the vid. Great as usual.
I have both, and love both of them. One thing that stands out to me, is the ability to hold the F2 at waist level and see the light reading on top of the prism. I prefer it while shooting street, for that reason.
I fully agree with you Hashem…The F2 is a fully mechanical system that allows me full control and options for my style of photography. Love the Nikon series ‘vintage’ cameras they offer. Great Review per usual my friend.
I’ve owned several of each F2 iteration and several F3s and honestly each has their own pros & cons. The benefit of not needing batteries with the F2 bodies give it my nod. That said, the F3 metering is superb and the shutter sound is as classic as can be. Both are excellent tools! Whichever model you use, do yourselves a big favor and use silver oxide batteries instead of alkaline ones to avoid a myriad of potential problems.
HNY Hasham! We just came back from our cruise trip to Far East Asia, Singapore, Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam using exclusively the Nikon F, Nikon F2 and Non AI Nikkor lenses. We burned 32 rolls. We selected these cameras because they were mechanical.
@ 85/1.8 and 28/2. We are sending our rolls to the lab today. Look forward to the results. By the way, we did also take our 5D2 and adapted the Non AI glass to it. We decided to use period (70’s) gear as we travelled. More of a homage to the image makers and the countries of that period. In any case, love your work.
Been using an f2 for a while now and it's a banger of a camera, i started with a 60's slr so I was hella appreciative of the extra features and lightmeter
Nice comparison. I've got both. I bought the F3 soon after I got back into film because it was THE camera in the 80s and I couldn't afford one then. Both get use, but I prefer the F3, it fits my hands better and while I can sunny 16, my F2 has a meter that only works when it feels like it.
F2 all the way over f3. Just love the feel of the f2. You can buy a lot more FE2’s and FA’s than the price of an F3. Would rather shoot FA and FE2 over F3. The FM3A is a beautiful camera to shoot also….but prices have gone through the roof😢
You can use F-mount lenses w/o aperture ring, the metering still works fine. One scenario would be during a vacation trip, I can use my AF-S lenses on my F3 in a pinch, so less need to carry both digital/manual versions of every focal length. How-to: mount the F-mount lens to a camera that can change the aperture, set it to the aperture you want (or wide open), unmount the lens without turning off the camera, mount it on the F3.
I have two F3’s (one loaded with Tri X 400 & one with E100). Use both weekly. Have an F2, gets an occasional outing with Ektar 100. Love all three cameras, however the F3’s are my favourite.
I have both models, I prefer the F3, I even have the f3p (press edition). I think it is the best manual focus SLR camera ever made. There is a lithium battery, I think the CR-1, which lasts a long time. Thanks for the very interesting video.
Haha its funny this is the first recommended video for me, I just came back from shooting a friends wedding with my F2 and pair of F3s. I am solidly in love with both! I feel like other than the F3s reliance on a battery and aperture priority mode the main difference is the F2 has a more mechanical more vintage feel where as the F3 feels a little more like a price of tech than a machine. I think they kinda appeal to different people. If you want a mechanical block of camera that doesn't do anything for you the F2 is all the film camera anyone needs but if you are into the more reto modern design and or want aperture priority then its the F3. At the end of day the FM2 and FE2 are smaller, lighter and technically more capable cameras then the F2 and F3 and on par with the F2 price wise and usually cheaper than the F3 so those are usually my recommendations.
Nice video! I have had the F3 for a few years. It is in beautiful condition, but the frame counter is not resetting. When the light meter suddenly stopped working, I started thinking about a new copy. Now, instead I have ordered an F2A, still on the way to me. I am really looking forward to it.
The F2 is my passion since I first saw it, int the mid 1970's. But i only ended picking one in 2004, after a bad experience with Canon electronic cameras I decided to move back to mechanical ones and found a mint black F2A that's been perfect since. Precise in every speed, trusty, all you can think of. In the meantime I added an F2AS, an F3 and another F2, with the eye level DP-1 finder 9no metering). After some time, and realizing I had more than I need, I ended up selling both the F3 and the F2AS and keeping the F2A and F2 eye level - this one, which is somewhat beaten, as a "spare parts if needed camera, but except from the frame counter, everything works well. I believe it was from a photojournalist that used a motordrive due to the signs on the body. On the other hand, the DP-1 on it is perfect, no sign of use! The only "problem" I have with the F2A is that it is so "new' that I don't use it that much :) I used the the F2AS and the F3 more. I like the F3, never had a problem with its electronics. I like its center weighted metering, almost a spot (guess it's 80/20). I still use this metering even on the F100 and D700. I find the F2A/AS some of the best cameras ever made. they're precision instruments. Even the beaten F2 with DP-1 still is precise on its 1 second speed - and I neve had it CLA'd since I bought it for the DP-1 and as possible spare parts at first. I am into the Nikon System because of its lenses. Ii find Canon's FD a bit superior in many cases but the fact I can use lenses from pre-AI (with the aperture ring adapted) up to the D series on all my mechanical cameras - not to mention on the F100 and D700, is unparalleled. F2 or F3? The F2 just because it is 100% mechanical. The F3 is amazing, has a mechanical backup speed and aperture priority, which is amazing. Well, after allm, if you can have both it'd be perfect, hahaha! Thanks for the video!
I had a nice F2Sb and ended up selling it whereas my later F3 still delivers pictures which end in the living-room. It is simply that bit more refined in many places which make it a great experience in use. Especially the MD-4 motordrive is way ahead of its predecessors and integrates much better with the camera. When you are looking for a camera as a workhorse to shoot film: F3. Some have mentioned the FE2/3A but to me besides using flash the F3 is just a bit better ergonomically as much as I like the FE2 I own since 1996.
If you have film camera GAS you'll probably end up with both. (I have both.) I use the F2 for mostly pre-AI lenses because it has the DP-1 finder on it and the F3 for Ai lenses. The F3 is nice but I prefer the build of the F2. I'd consider selling the F3 for an F2AS or F2A.
When I was looking for a Nikon film body I had the F2 and F3 in the hands and between these two I would take the F3 simply because of the size. But in the end I got a FM2 because it is even more compact and I got it for a reasonable price :) Looking for more content from you in 2025! 😊
I'm watching this with my Nikon F2 and my Nikkormat FTn next to me. The boys are loving your breakdown. I chose my F2, because I wanted a camera that was compatible with my array of Non-AI lenses (Which I love because I prefer how they feel to use compared to the AI/AI-s lenses) and had 1/2000 second shutter speed, as my Nikkormat FTn with a max of 1/1000 can get a little tricky in brighter conditions with 400 ISO film.
@ the 50mm f1.4 MC, hands down my favourite is the 24mm f2.8. Nine lens elements for super low distortion, amazing lens for my street photography 👌 Oh! And a somewhat rare lens is my 45mm f2.8 pancake. Focuses really weird because it’s 30m to infinity, but has a minimum aperture of f32, and is incredibly sharp.
My first film camera was the F3 and it never worked properly due to shutter issues which planted the seed of mistrust of electronic controlled camera. Bought an F2 which solved that though now I prefer the FM2 due to size and the light meter unreliability in the F2. Of course you cannot extrapolate anything from my personal experience as I live in place where sourcing quality cameras is hard and repairs almost impossible
Back in ancient times - film days. I started out with the F and the photomic head. Then purchased a F3. I preferred the needle meter on the F to the led lights on the F3. Are the button cell batteries still available for the DP-1/11 head?
The F2 is older, but is made of solid, lasting mechanical parts. The F3 is newer, but has electronics and a LCD display that tend to fade over the years. So there are pros & cons with both. But both are great! 😊👍🏻
Here's the thing most people miss about ai and non ai lenses. Most ai lenses have the non-ai bunny ears. As long as it has the bunny ears you can use any ai/s lens on an F2 photomic. You cannot use non-ai lenses on an F3 of FM2 at all, this makes the F2 much more versatile for lens choice even if you don't spend the extra cash on a dp-11 or dp-12 prism. The best bang for your buck is the dp-1 or dp-2 if you want LEDs. The DP-3 is the most accurate, but costs about the same as a dp-12. To clarify, Non-ai does NOT mean stop down metering, it means you have to simply turn the aperture ring back and forth once to calibrate the aperture to the camera. Otherwise metering is exactly the same. Many non-ai lens formulas carried over to the AI lenses, with only updates to the body and sometimes coatings. There are many exceptions of course.
Just a quick correction, you actually can use pre-ai lenses on the F3. The metal ai coupling tab can be flipped up and out of the way to accommodate the older lenses. But you have to use stop down metering of course.
I've always felt like the F2 sort of felt like an underengineered F3 and overengineered F. It has a couple improvements over the F, but the only very significant ones are the swing open rear door and the integrated battery compartment. I prefer the non-metered prisms for their size so it's always felt like a wasted bit of space on mine. I may also be biased because I have completely disassembled and repaired my F2 and it was a complete nightmare compared to the work I did on one of my F's.
I had an F3 for a few years, got an F2 over a year ago now. Use both, I would recommend the F3 for everyone. If you are a certain type of person I’d say get an F2 if no electronics are your thing. My F3 has died on me a couple times. I think of it like a Leica M7 vs an M6!
Another informative video about gear that didn’t feel like I was being sold something. I don’t quite understand where you said one of the reasons you prefer the F2 is that you like to use Sunny 16- I have an F3 and there’s no impediment to using that method. Am I missing something?
I have the F3 and I've never felt the need to consider any other 35mm camera. If it died I would go straight out and buy another one, without hesitation. There's literally only one thing I don't like about it, and it's that the meter/shutter locks to 1/80th when you put in a new roll until you wind on to your 'first frame'. So even though you could be shooting an extra frame or two at the start of a roll, you are stuck at 1/80th and you would need an external light meter (or in my case, a good guess) as to what aperture to shoot at. Literally my only complaint and it's very minor. Everything about it is so intuitive, and aperture priority makes shooting casually so much more straightforward and simple. And nothing is quite as sexy as that red line down the front.
IF you have the MD-4 motor drive attached to your F3, you don't need camera batteries to power camera functions. The camera will operate on the motordrive batteries. I have not had batteries in my F3 in 40 years. My first Nikon was an F2 Photomic and I currently own an F2A along with my F3HP and another 8 or 9 Nikoms From an S2 Rangefinder to modern digital (boring).
I use my FE manually just like an FM. The electronic isn't reliable after many year and I was not alone in my film photography group. I figure I prefer F2 over F3 now
Also there is a bit of misinformation. You CAN use NonAI with the DP11 on the F2 or with the F3, but you have to use stop down metering on both. On the F3 there is a small buton on the mount that disengages the small metal part that connects with the AI lenses
Too true. In my experience, a lot of amateurs never even bother to properly read and digest a camera’s Instruction Manual and consequently they never seem to know how to properly use the camera or fully exploit its potential.
@nigellee7892 it's ok for amateurs but not for youtubers who educate their audience and have been doing this for years. I once saw a clip from Matti Haapoja, who said that he didn't know what bunny ears on nikon lenses were, while he was making a review on a nikon lens. I think youtubers should fact-check their reviews/presentations or admit that they don't know what they're talking about
@@pauuuuul87 I couldn’t agree more … the lack of ‘product knowledge’ or even basic understanding of the art and science of photography itself of SOME UA-camrs is laughable!
For years, I used a Canon EOS30V (Elan) for shooting 35mm film. Last summer, I started exploring old Nikon F cameras and ended up getting an F3 along with AI-s 24mm, 28mm, and 35mm lenses. Honestly, I don’t think I’ll ever go back to my Canon after experiencing how much I love the Nikon F3. It’s an incredible camera - the light meter is still impressively accurate for its age and has never let me down, no matter the conditions. Plus, the way it feels in my hands is just perfect. So yeah, F3 all the way!
Both use the same 135 - MINIATURE FORMAT - film, and photographically speaking, they’ll produce identical results. I personally have and use an F3 which is a lot newer than the F2 and I would have thought therefore, less liable to break down.
Yeah the metering system in the F3 would be more advanced. I just wish they made the little LCD more prominent somehow... or a meter bar like some Pentax/minolta cameras.
The metering on the F3 is super accurate once you understand it's 80:20 weighting. It's as accurate as my Sekonic which a lot of older SLRs just aren't.
Both But you can make an argument that FM2 and FE2 are even better than both since they have 1/4000th shutter speed and far better flash integration. Not to mention a lot lighter and just as rugged.
Each one has its place. When I'm relaxed and just want a wholesome experience I go for the F2. When I need speed and maybe for critical work I go with the F3. For longevity F2 is more durable, the F3 is sensitive to knocks and bruises with the FRE. NEVER put a big flash on a F3, it's a shure way to break the FRE, but if you use the F3P, with the hot shoe on the prism you are good to go
For some weird reasons I don't like the way F3 look, so F2 for me. But hey, I'm not against electronics. If someone give me a FE2 or FA, will gladly accept it :)
Hallo ich liebe beide Kameras. Für mich hat die F3 HP den besseren Sucher den ich bin Brillenträger und schaue mit dem linken Auge durch den Sucher. Ich habe aber eine F2 DP1,DP2,DP3 und DP12.ich liebe diese.viele grüße
Couple of points on what "AI" is. Pre "AI" lenses to couple with the metering on the Nikon F used a external "prong" that coupled with an external stud on the finder. To get the proper settings on the meter head you had to mount the lens at the minimum aperture for the lens you were using. 50MM 1,4 for example, had to be set at F16 then you had to twist the aperture ring to the maximum aperture to calibrate the meter to the lens. This was called the "Nikon Twist" and you could always tell when photographers had "grown up" using this when they used the later AI style Nikon (muscle memory). When Nikon introduced the F2 they kept that style of meter coupling to allow people to use their current lens. The pre AI lens always metered with the aperture fully open, it only "stopped down" when the shutter was released (there were some limited lens that required stop down metering IIRR). To use them in a F3 or AI series pre "AIS" body you had to stop down the aperture. If someone is getting into film I would personally lean toward the F-2 with the older DP-1 style meter. There are literally loads of used lens on the market that were never converted that you can buy cheaper than "AI/AIS" lens for this reason. I have both the F2 and F3 (used them for decades) and keep a DP1 head on the F2 for this reason (that and I never did convert a couple lens when I should have :) ) The 1 thing to keep in mind with using non AI lenses if you can't use them on later "AIS" style bodies if you decide to add a camera to your collection. The FM2's, FE2's, FA and FM3a were designed to use with only AI or AIS type lenes, using a non AI lens with the old style meter prong will damage those.
I just did a "double check" on my F2 On the F2 you could "cheat" and set the aperture at the minimum setting and do a "1/2 twist" to the maximum setting and index the meter. It was an old press/combat photographers' trick someone showed me back in the Stone Age. You did have to set the aperture at 5.6 if you were using a Nikkormat FT,FTN, FT-2 or EL though.
What is the trouble with UA-camrs not bringing a spare set of batteries, if the current set is empty??? Making that an argument for choosing a “fully” mechanical camera. If you want to photograph with an original manual, without electronics, professional camera, get a Nikon SP. It is a great rangefinder camera to get into competition with Leica M3. It is the big daddy of the Nikon F, which copied roughly 50% of the parts from the SP. My film camera’s I use: the SP (the original), F3/T (the best), F4(s) (most versatile), F6 (the Rolls Royce) !!!
@@alberte58 I know right! And SR44/LR44 are so small, you can put 4 of them în your wallet. This argument has been repeated without thinking over and over again. Electronic cameras can have way worse problems than running out of batteries. As do mechanical cameras. Another big problem that I see is that everybody is looking for the most reliable camera and they're only shooting 6 rolls per year😂😂
@lighturpl3 Very true. F4's, in my opinion, were the pinnacle of the Nikon professional F series and are able to accept and fully utilise the widest range of lenses of any F model.
bro.... you have not even used a F3 but you claim to prefer the F2??? how can you even say that when you have not even used the other camera? Trust me, once you get your hands on a F3, you will never go back to your old F2. not sure why are you talking about shooting at night. both cameras can do that easily.
The whole battery thing needs to go away. It is simple, carry a spare battery, just like you carry extra rolls of film. It is such a poor overused argument, to promote a mechanical camera. More important is the point that is NEVER mentioned which is mechanic cameras losing their accuracy with shutter timings.
The F3 is sublime. That film advance is pure silk. The battery thing is way overblown. The battery is ubiquitous, none of us are shooting these cameras in a warzone, the fear of a battery fail and no replacement is unwarranted. The fact that the F3 regulates its own shutter is amazing and doesn't get appreciated enough. I also own and use an FM3A, fantastic camera with two cons - The advance is meh compared to the F3 and the adv having to be open to have the camera on is a right pain for a left eyed shooter. The perfect SLR would be a FM3A inside a F3 body.
You CAN use non-ai lenses on the F3 without modification, just flip up the little tab near the lens mount. F3 shutter speeds are electronically quartz timed so they are much more accurate and consistent than any mechanical shutter speed cameras. If you use motor drives then F3 with MD4 is much better designed and made and lighter than F2 with any one of its motor drives. F3 exposure pattern is 80/20 very unique and useful and accurate than F2’s 60/40 pattern. F3’s red dot focusing screens are much brighter than any F2 focusing screen. F3 film advance lever is much smoother and lighter than F2. F3 uses standard cable release whereas F2 uses the older plunger style of cable release. If you run out of battery power in the middle of your shoot then it is YOUR OWN fault for not checking and testing it in advance, so carry extra batteries and STOP using batteries as a camera’s fault. The main advantage of a fully mechanical camera is using under extreme cold and freezing conditions where batteries may die on you.
I don't really agree here; the F3 using a battery is overstated; they last forever and a day. If I'm away on a trip, I'll either replace them or bring spares, I've never had a battery run out in 5 years. Advantages are quartz controlled shutter timing, which is rare to drift out of specification unlike a mechanical body. Granted, both are a nice design, both are pro bodies that are maintainable and reliable. Both shoot really well. I'd have the F3; the meter is telepathically accurate, better than the F2s and more reliable than a F2 meter, most of which are pretty old now. The F3 looks better too. F2 is a functional workhorse, but it ain't pretty.
there is no choice here, its the F3 EVERYTIME. the F3 is literally the best fully manual SLR camera ever made. The F2 is a decent camera, but it is not even compareable to the F3. also, you DO NOT need to change the prisms in the F3 when using old lenses. not sure why you think that you do. thats just wrong. and the F3 is also a "fully mechanical" camera. even if the battery dies, you can still use the camera. you just need to use the "sunny 16" rule or have an external meter. you seem to not know what you are talking about here with these cameras.....
The F3 is not fully mechanical. The shutter, meter, and shutter buttons are powered by the batteries. If your batteries die, you can use a mechanical backup switch on the front, which only fires the camera at 1/80th. You don't seem to know what you're talking about. It's also weird to get so angry at someone else's personal opinion.
F3 all the way. I specialise in F3 repairs and I have worked on more than 200 bodies now.. people are scared of the electronics, but I have seen more F2s with faulty meters than F3s with faulty boards. The speeds on the F3 are much more precise as they are electronically controlled (1/1000 and below). Generally both cameras are awesome, but the F3 feels way more refined in my opinion, it also sits much better in the hand. I don't even want to comment on the battery requirements of the F3 to shoot at all speeds - these are so cheap and last for a couple of years, one can always throw an additional pair of batteries in their backpack.
Deyan you are the best🎉
@@pauuuuul87 You are absolutely right about the FRE resistor - bulky flashes can crack it. Also, I forgot to mention that the display is the Achilles heel of the F3, but I and James Holman from ICTCamera found a way to fix them without replacing the display itself. It turns out that the polarising filters are to blame and just by swapping the two polarisers the display gets as good as new. :))
@didoriginal that is amazing to hear. Thanks for letting us know
Maybe you can tell me is mine still repairable- all speeds fire ok but light meter and auto don't seem work
@@Gielon Mr Deyan is the specialist here but it sounds like a cracked FRE to me
I've shot with both F2 and F3 cameras extensively over the years, both are excellent tough cameras that, "get the job done", with no fuss. My choice goes with the F2. I currently shoot with an F2 Titan (native eye-level finder). It is a no-nonsense camera that never lets me down. No batteries required. I call it, "rugged, stylish, simplicity".
I own both , F2AS and the F3, love them both. My F2AS was CLA by Sover Wong in the UK , between shipping from US and cost of CLA I'll own it forever.
I had a like new F3HP and a like new F2. I preferred the F3 over the F2 until I bought a non metered eye level prism for the F2. Once I did that I quickly realized I would never touch the F3 again and sold it.
Amazing. I've been on the lookout for that prism but they seem pricey!
I love my F2!!!!!! I’m a sucker for mechanical cameras 😍😍😍
I have a F3T and a FE2. Just lovely cameras, never failed on me.
I love Nikon... have a few FM2N, FM3A, F6. I enjoy shooting with them.
Theoretically the F2 models open up more options as it uses non AI lenses onwards without much worry about metering (provided lens has the rabbit ears). F3 can use non AI but you need to remember to flip down the metal part at the lens mount. You can always use stop down metering (with the button) on both models.
Team F2. Like you said, more of a tank feel to the F2. Also it looks better imho. Most beautiful SLR out there when combined with the DE-1 prism.
Nice! Yeah I wanted that prism but couldn't find one for a good price
I had an F2, F3, and an FM3a. I just sold the F2 just for the weight and my back :) I loved shooting it though. I think it has the nicest feel out of all three. The F3 has the best wind on lever though. The FM3A is the best on paper and i love the match needle and 4000 speed but having to have the wind on lever out is annoying when you are left-eye dominant. If the F3 were the weight of me Fm3a i'd be happy out. But yeah, these cameras are jsut tanks and I love them all. Thanks for the vid. Great as usual.
I have both, and love both of them. One thing that stands out to me, is the ability to hold the F2 at waist level and see the light reading on top of the prism. I prefer it while shooting street, for that reason.
Just buy them both. Worked for me.
Great vid to intro the F2 and F3! All the Love.
Hey, thanks!
I fully agree with you Hashem…The F2 is a fully mechanical system that allows me full control and options for my style of photography.
Love the Nikon series ‘vintage’ cameras they offer. Great Review per usual my friend.
Thanks Lang!
I’ve owned several of each F2 iteration and several F3s and honestly each has their own pros & cons. The benefit of not needing batteries with the F2 bodies give it my nod. That said, the F3 metering is superb and the shutter sound is as classic as can be. Both are excellent tools! Whichever model you use, do yourselves a big favor and use silver oxide batteries instead of alkaline ones to avoid a myriad of potential problems.
Such a handy video! cheers legend
HNY Hasham!
We just came back from our cruise trip to Far East Asia, Singapore, Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam using exclusively the Nikon F, Nikon F2 and Non AI Nikkor lenses. We burned 32 rolls. We selected these cameras because they were mechanical.
HnY! That's great, hope it was a good trip! What was your most used lens?
@ 85/1.8 and 28/2. We are sending our rolls to the lab today. Look forward to the results. By the way, we did also take our 5D2 and adapted the Non AI glass to it. We decided to use period (70’s) gear as we travelled. More of a homage to the image makers and the countries of that period. In any case, love your work.
Been using an f2 for a while now and it's a banger of a camera, i started with a 60's slr so I was hella appreciative of the extra features and lightmeter
Nice! I remember seeing you out there with it 😁
@@pushingfilm I now have an F4 ^^
Nice comparison. I've got both.
I bought the F3 soon after I got back into film because it was THE camera in the 80s and I couldn't afford one then.
Both get use, but I prefer the F3, it fits my hands better and while I can sunny 16, my F2 has a meter that only works when it feels like it.
F2 all the way over f3.
Just love the feel of the f2.
You can buy a lot more FE2’s and FA’s than the price of an F3. Would rather shoot FA and FE2 over F3.
The FM3A is a beautiful camera to shoot also….but prices have gone through the roof😢
I love the action of the F2 film advance, ratcheting goodness.
You can use F-mount lenses w/o aperture ring, the metering still works fine. One scenario would be during a vacation trip, I can use my AF-S lenses on my F3 in a pinch, so less need to carry both digital/manual versions of every focal length. How-to: mount the F-mount lens to a camera that can change the aperture, set it to the aperture you want (or wide open), unmount the lens without turning off the camera, mount it on the F3.
I have two F3’s (one loaded with Tri X 400 & one with E100). Use both weekly. Have an F2, gets an occasional outing with Ektar 100. Love all three cameras, however the F3’s are my favourite.
I have both models, I prefer the F3, I even have the f3p (press edition). I think it is the best manual focus SLR camera ever made. There is a lithium battery, I think the CR-1, which lasts a long time. Thanks for the very interesting video.
Haha its funny this is the first recommended video for me, I just came back from shooting a friends wedding with my F2 and pair of F3s. I am solidly in love with both! I feel like other than the F3s reliance on a battery and aperture priority mode the main difference is the F2 has a more mechanical more vintage feel where as the F3 feels a little more like a price of tech than a machine. I think they kinda appeal to different people. If you want a mechanical block of camera that doesn't do anything for you the F2 is all the film camera anyone needs but if you are into the more reto modern design and or want aperture priority then its the F3. At the end of day the FM2 and FE2 are smaller, lighter and technically more capable cameras then the F2 and F3 and on par with the F2 price wise and usually cheaper than the F3 so those are usually my recommendations.
Nice video! I have had the F3 for a few years. It is in beautiful condition, but the frame counter is not resetting. When the light meter suddenly stopped working, I started thinking about a new copy. Now, instead I have ordered an F2A, still on the way to me. I am really looking forward to it.
The F2 is my passion since I first saw it, int the mid 1970's. But i only ended picking one in 2004, after a bad experience with Canon electronic cameras I decided to move back to mechanical ones and found a mint black F2A that's been perfect since. Precise in every speed, trusty, all you can think of. In the meantime I added an F2AS, an F3 and another F2, with the eye level DP-1 finder 9no metering). After some time, and realizing I had more than I need, I ended up selling both the F3 and the F2AS and keeping the F2A and F2 eye level - this one, which is somewhat beaten, as a "spare parts if needed camera, but except from the frame counter, everything works well. I believe it was from a photojournalist that used a motordrive due to the signs on the body. On the other hand, the DP-1 on it is perfect, no sign of use!
The only "problem" I have with the F2A is that it is so "new' that I don't use it that much :) I used the the F2AS and the F3 more. I like the F3, never had a problem with its electronics. I like its center weighted metering, almost a spot (guess it's 80/20). I still use this metering even on the F100 and D700.
I find the F2A/AS some of the best cameras ever made. they're precision instruments. Even the beaten F2 with DP-1 still is precise on its 1 second speed - and I neve had it CLA'd since I bought it for the DP-1 and as possible spare parts at first.
I am into the Nikon System because of its lenses. Ii find Canon's FD a bit superior in many cases but the fact I can use lenses from pre-AI (with the aperture ring adapted) up to the D series on all my mechanical cameras - not to mention on the F100 and D700, is unparalleled.
F2 or F3?
The F2 just because it is 100% mechanical. The F3 is amazing, has a mechanical backup speed and aperture priority, which is amazing. Well, after allm, if you can have both it'd be perfect, hahaha!
Thanks for the video!
Honestly I can’t pick I love both.
No reason not to when you can pick up a legendary camera for a few hundred bucks. When back in the day you would have to take out a loan.
My personal choice is F2, and I also prefer FE2 instead of F3
I had a nice F2Sb and ended up selling it whereas my later F3 still delivers pictures which end in the living-room. It is simply that bit more refined in many places which make it a great experience in use. Especially the MD-4 motordrive is way ahead of its predecessors and integrates much better with the camera. When you are looking for a camera as a workhorse to shoot film: F3. Some have mentioned the FE2/3A but to me besides using flash the F3 is just a bit better ergonomically as much as I like the FE2 I own since 1996.
F2 hands down is my favourite SLR!
If you have film camera GAS you'll probably end up with both. (I have both.) I use the F2 for mostly pre-AI lenses because it has the DP-1 finder on it and the F3 for Ai lenses.
The F3 is nice but I prefer the build of the F2. I'd consider selling the F3 for an F2AS or F2A.
This. If you’re watching this video, you’ll likely end up with both.
I have both.
When I was looking for a Nikon film body I had the F2 and F3 in the hands and between these two I would take the F3 simply because of the size. But in the end I got a FM2 because it is even more compact and I got it for a reasonable price :)
Looking for more content from you in 2025! 😊
I am looking for an F2 for the full manual operation experience . The only negative I can see is the cable release is a proprietary Nikon.
Good point!
@pushingfilm It's still at the top of the needs list though.
The correct answer is F2AS. Best of the last handmade camera by Nikon.
I'm watching this with my Nikon F2 and my Nikkormat FTn next to me. The boys are loving your breakdown.
I chose my F2, because I wanted a camera that was compatible with my array of Non-AI lenses (Which I love because I prefer how they feel to use compared to the AI/AI-s lenses) and had 1/2000 second shutter speed, as my Nikkormat FTn with a max of 1/1000 can get a little tricky in brighter conditions with 400 ISO film.
Nice! I've admittedly overlooked non-AI lenses. What would be your top picks for primes in the range?
@ the 50mm f1.4 MC, hands down my favourite is the 24mm f2.8. Nine lens elements for super low distortion, amazing lens for my street photography 👌
Oh! And a somewhat rare lens is my 45mm f2.8 pancake. Focuses really weird because it’s 30m to infinity, but has a minimum aperture of f32, and is incredibly sharp.
@@Merjia Nice. I don't have a 24 yet, so might add that one to my watchlist 😁
F2-AS in use, enjoy the full mechanical
My first film camera was the F3 and it never worked properly due to shutter issues which planted the seed of mistrust of electronic controlled camera. Bought an F2 which solved that though now I prefer the FM2 due to size and the light meter unreliability in the F2.
Of course you cannot extrapolate anything from my personal experience as I live in place where sourcing quality cameras is hard and repairs almost impossible
Back in ancient times - film days. I started out with the F and the photomic head. Then purchased a F3. I preferred the needle meter on the F to the led lights on the F3. Are the button cell batteries still available for the DP-1/11 head?
Nice 🙂 Yeah its powered through LR/SR 44s in the camera body... Convenient!
The F2 is older, but is made of solid, lasting mechanical parts. The F3 is newer, but has electronics and a LCD display that tend to fade over the years. So there are pros & cons with both. But both are great! 😊👍🏻
Agreed!
Here's the thing most people miss about ai and non ai lenses. Most ai lenses have the non-ai bunny ears. As long as it has the bunny ears you can use any ai/s lens on an F2 photomic. You cannot use non-ai lenses on an F3 of FM2 at all, this makes the F2 much more versatile for lens choice even if you don't spend the extra cash on a dp-11 or dp-12 prism. The best bang for your buck is the dp-1 or dp-2 if you want LEDs. The DP-3 is the most accurate, but costs about the same as a dp-12. To clarify, Non-ai does NOT mean stop down metering, it means you have to simply turn the aperture ring back and forth once to calibrate the aperture to the camera. Otherwise metering is exactly the same. Many non-ai lens formulas carried over to the AI lenses, with only updates to the body and sometimes coatings. There are many exceptions of course.
Just a quick correction, you actually can use pre-ai lenses on the F3. The metal ai coupling tab can be flipped up and out of the way to accommodate the older lenses. But you have to use stop down metering of course.
I've always felt like the F2 sort of felt like an underengineered F3 and overengineered F. It has a couple improvements over the F, but the only very significant ones are the swing open rear door and the integrated battery compartment. I prefer the non-metered prisms for their size so it's always felt like a wasted bit of space on mine. I may also be biased because I have completely disassembled and repaired my F2 and it was a complete nightmare compared to the work I did on one of my F's.
I had an F3 for a few years, got an F2 over a year ago now. Use both, I would recommend the F3 for everyone. If you are a certain type of person I’d say get an F2 if no electronics are your thing. My F3 has died on me a couple times.
I think of it like a Leica M7 vs an M6!
Another informative video about gear that didn’t feel like I was being sold something. I don’t quite understand where you said one of the reasons you prefer the F2 is that you like to use Sunny 16- I have an F3 and there’s no impediment to using that method. Am I missing something?
I have the F3 and I've never felt the need to consider any other 35mm camera. If it died I would go straight out and buy another one, without hesitation. There's literally only one thing I don't like about it, and it's that the meter/shutter locks to 1/80th when you put in a new roll until you wind on to your 'first frame'. So even though you could be shooting an extra frame or two at the start of a roll, you are stuck at 1/80th and you would need an external light meter (or in my case, a good guess) as to what aperture to shoot at. Literally my only complaint and it's very minor. Everything about it is so intuitive, and aperture priority makes shooting casually so much more straightforward and simple. And nothing is quite as sexy as that red line down the front.
IF you have the MD-4 motor drive attached to your F3, you don't need camera batteries to power camera functions. The camera will operate on the motordrive batteries. I have not had batteries in my F3 in 40 years. My first Nikon was an F2 Photomic and I currently own an F2A along with my F3HP and another 8 or 9 Nikoms From an S2 Rangefinder to modern digital (boring).
Coming from an FM2n, I thought the F3 would be an upgrade but the trade off for the aperture priority was a limp plastic winding crank....
I use my FE manually just like an FM. The electronic isn't reliable after many year and I was not alone in my film photography group. I figure I prefer F2 over F3 now
Also there is a bit of misinformation. You CAN use NonAI with the DP11 on the F2 or with the F3, but you have to use stop down metering on both. On the F3 there is a small buton on the mount that disengages the small metal part that connects with the AI lenses
Too true. In my experience, a lot of amateurs never even bother to properly read and digest a camera’s Instruction Manual and consequently they never seem to know how to properly use the camera or fully exploit its potential.
@nigellee7892 it's ok for amateurs but not for youtubers who educate their audience and have been doing this for years. I once saw a clip from Matti Haapoja, who said that he didn't know what bunny ears on nikon lenses were, while he was making a review on a nikon lens. I think youtubers should fact-check their reviews/presentations or admit that they don't know what they're talking about
@@pauuuuul87 I couldn’t agree more … the lack of ‘product knowledge’ or even basic understanding of the art and science of photography itself of SOME UA-camrs is laughable!
How about you watch the video properly and reaslise that I mentioned that
@@pushingfilm that slightly prickly remark wasn’t aimed at you Sir, or your video
I have both, for functionality, definitely F3! For repairability, F2!
Nice!
For years, I used a Canon EOS30V (Elan) for shooting 35mm film. Last summer, I started exploring old Nikon F cameras and ended up getting an F3 along with AI-s 24mm, 28mm, and 35mm lenses. Honestly, I don’t think I’ll ever go back to my Canon after experiencing how much I love the Nikon F3. It’s an incredible camera - the light meter is still impressively accurate for its age and has never let me down, no matter the conditions. Plus, the way it feels in my hands is just perfect. So yeah, F3 all the way!
which 28mm did you get? pre-ai, ai or ais ,f2, f2.8,f3.5 or perspective f4
Nice, the F3 certainly feels nicer ergonomically! Good lens choices.. I have the 28 AIS 2.8 and it's one of the best lenses I own!
@@joshmcdzz6925 28mm 2.8 AI-S
@@pushingfilm I agree
@@joshmcdzz6925 28mm 2.8 AI-S
Both use the same 135 - MINIATURE FORMAT - film, and photographically speaking, they’ll produce identical results. I personally have and use an F3 which is a lot newer than the F2 and I would have thought therefore, less liable to break down.
Could just be my F2, but the meter on mine is not great. I actually prefer needle displays, but the F3 metering is much much better.
Yeah the metering system in the F3 would be more advanced. I just wish they made the little LCD more prominent somehow... or a meter bar like some Pentax/minolta cameras.
The metering on the F3 is super accurate once you understand it's 80:20 weighting.
It's as accurate as my Sekonic which a lot of older SLRs just aren't.
i love my F3HP with nikkor 50mm f1.4 ais
FM2 and FM3a are lighter and a little less solid, but great options as well
yep 🙂
If I use an F2, will I get biceps like yours?
Instantly. Few reps of Pentax 6x7 then dropset to F2
good
Both
But you can make an argument that FM2 and FE2 are even better than both since they have 1/4000th shutter speed and far better flash integration. Not to mention a lot lighter and just as rugged.
True!
Or be like me and rock the Nikon F... yes the photomic FTN brick version..
Each one has its place. When I'm relaxed and just want a wholesome experience I go for the F2. When I need speed and maybe for critical work I go with the F3. For longevity F2 is more durable, the F3 is sensitive to knocks and bruises with the FRE. NEVER put a big flash on a F3, it's a shure way to break the FRE, but if you use the F3P, with the hot shoe on the prism you are good to go
Never heard them called a knee-con before.
I pick up whichever I find prettier that day.
Excellent 😁
For some weird reasons I don't like the way F3 look, so F2 for me. But hey, I'm not against electronics. If someone give me a FE2 or FA, will gladly accept it :)
Neither, F is my favorite.
Hallo ich liebe beide Kameras. Für mich hat die F3 HP den besseren Sucher den ich bin Brillenträger und schaue mit dem linken Auge durch den Sucher. Ich habe aber eine F2 DP1,DP2,DP3 und DP12.ich liebe diese.viele grüße
That's a good point!
Couple of points on what "AI" is. Pre "AI" lenses to couple with the metering on the Nikon F used a external "prong" that coupled with an external stud on the finder. To get the proper settings on the meter head you had to mount the lens at the minimum aperture for the lens you were using. 50MM 1,4 for example, had to be set at F16 then you had to twist the aperture ring to the maximum aperture to calibrate the meter to the lens. This was called the "Nikon Twist" and you could always tell when photographers had "grown up" using this when they used the later AI style Nikon (muscle memory).
When Nikon introduced the F2 they kept that style of meter coupling to allow people to use their current lens.
The pre AI lens always metered with the aperture fully open, it only "stopped down" when the shutter was released (there were some limited lens that required stop down metering IIRR). To use them in a F3 or AI series pre "AIS" body you had to stop down the aperture.
If someone is getting into film I would personally lean toward the F-2 with the older DP-1 style meter. There are literally loads of used lens on the market that were never converted that you can buy cheaper than "AI/AIS" lens for this reason.
I have both the F2 and F3 (used them for decades) and keep a DP1 head on the F2 for this reason (that and I never did convert a couple lens when I should have :) )
The 1 thing to keep in mind with using non AI lenses if you can't use them on later "AIS" style bodies if you decide to add a camera to your collection. The FM2's, FE2's, FA and FM3a were designed to use with only AI or AIS type lenes, using a non AI lens with the old style meter prong will damage those.
Slight correction. When mounting the lens, aperture should be set at f 5.6 and then do Nikon twist.
I just did a "double check" on my F2 On the F2 you could "cheat" and set the aperture at the minimum setting and do a "1/2 twist" to the maximum setting and index the meter. It was an old press/combat photographers' trick someone showed me back in the Stone Age. You did have to set the aperture at 5.6 if you were using a Nikkormat FT,FTN, FT-2 or EL though.
Canon New F-1 !!!
Great camera 🙂
Nikon still offers AI-s lenses on their site. That's saying something. Great Video as well.
I'm big fan of all mechanical. got the f2 titan and so lost some wait. also in my wallet. yolo ;)
Nice!
What is the trouble with UA-camrs not bringing a spare set of batteries, if the current set is empty??? Making that an argument for choosing a “fully” mechanical camera. If you want to photograph with an original manual, without electronics, professional camera, get a Nikon SP. It is a great rangefinder camera to get into competition with Leica M3. It is the big daddy of the Nikon F, which copied roughly 50% of the parts from the SP.
My film camera’s I use: the SP (the original), F3/T (the best), F4(s) (most versatile), F6 (the Rolls Royce) !!!
@@alberte58 I know right! And SR44/LR44 are so small, you can put 4 of them în your wallet. This argument has been repeated without thinking over and over again. Electronic cameras can have way worse problems than running out of batteries. As do mechanical cameras. Another big problem that I see is that everybody is looking for the most reliable camera and they're only shooting 6 rolls per year😂😂
Choose the f4 instant lol
Then i go for the lighter body and grap the f801
A appreciated downgrade!
Excellent! I have 2 F4(s) and 2 F801s, I know what you mean. The F801 is one of the most underrated 35mm SLR's, which I find very strange.
F4 are so under rated. Fine by me, it keeps the price down!
@lighturpl3 Very true. F4's, in my opinion, were the pinnacle of the Nikon professional F series and are able to accept and fully utilise the widest range of lenses of any F model.
I really prefer F2. I shoot a lot at night, so more light is always useful. I haven't tried F3, but F2.8 is usually too slow.
bro.... you have not even used a F3 but you claim to prefer the F2??? how can you even say that when you have not even used the other camera? Trust me, once you get your hands on a F3, you will never go back to your old F2. not sure why are you talking about shooting at night. both cameras can do that easily.
@@orion7741 I think they've confused the camera model numbers with apertures.
Haha. Is this some sort of joke about faster apertures?
If so, not bad.
@@Mamo878 yes ;) apperently it went over the other's heads
Very nice 😆
The whole battery thing needs to go away.
It is simple, carry a spare battery, just like you carry extra rolls of film.
It is such a poor overused argument, to promote a mechanical camera.
More important is the point that is NEVER mentioned which is mechanic cameras losing their accuracy with shutter timings.
F2 is King, especially since clout chasers want the bragging rights of the F3, so prices area almosy ALWAYS overpriced.
The F3 is sublime. That film advance is pure silk. The battery thing is way overblown. The battery is ubiquitous, none of us are shooting these cameras in a warzone, the fear of a battery fail and no replacement is unwarranted. The fact that the F3 regulates its own shutter is amazing and doesn't get appreciated enough. I also own and use an FM3A, fantastic camera with two cons - The advance is meh compared to the F3 and the adv having to be open to have the camera on is a right pain for a left eyed shooter. The perfect SLR would be a FM3A inside a F3 body.
Neither folks ! Both absolute tanks ! HUGE camera bodies. The Olympus OM1 slays.
Of these two, f2 Everytime.
your nuts... no, its the F3 EVERYTIME. it is better than the F2 in every possible way. seriously.
You CAN use non-ai lenses on the F3 without modification, just flip up the little tab near the lens mount.
F3 shutter speeds are electronically quartz timed so they are much more accurate and consistent than any mechanical shutter speed cameras.
If you use motor drives then F3 with MD4 is much better designed and made and lighter than F2 with any one of its motor drives.
F3 exposure pattern is 80/20 very unique and useful and accurate than F2’s 60/40 pattern.
F3’s red dot focusing screens are much brighter than any F2 focusing screen.
F3 film advance lever is much smoother and lighter than F2.
F3 uses standard cable release whereas F2 uses the older plunger style of cable release.
If you run out of battery power in the middle of your shoot then it is YOUR OWN fault for not checking and testing it in advance, so carry extra batteries and STOP using batteries as a camera’s fault.
The main advantage of a fully mechanical camera is using under extreme cold and freezing conditions where batteries may die on you.
I don't really agree here; the F3 using a battery is overstated; they last forever and a day. If I'm away on a trip, I'll either replace them or bring spares, I've never had a battery run out in 5 years. Advantages are quartz controlled shutter timing, which is rare to drift out of specification unlike a mechanical body.
Granted, both are a nice design, both are pro bodies that are maintainable and reliable. Both shoot really well. I'd have the F3; the meter is telepathically accurate, better than the F2s and more reliable than a F2 meter, most of which are pretty old now.
The F3 looks better too. F2 is a functional workhorse, but it ain't pretty.
there is no choice here, its the F3 EVERYTIME. the F3 is literally the best fully manual SLR camera ever made. The F2 is a decent camera, but it is not even compareable to the F3. also, you DO NOT need to change the prisms in the F3 when using old lenses. not sure why you think that you do. thats just wrong. and the F3 is also a "fully mechanical" camera. even if the battery dies, you can still use the camera. you just need to use the "sunny 16" rule or have an external meter. you seem to not know what you are talking about here with these cameras.....
If the batterie dies your stuck with 1/60. My choice is FM2n
The F3 is not fully mechanical. The shutter, meter, and shutter buttons are powered by the batteries. If your batteries die, you can use a mechanical backup switch on the front, which only fires the camera at 1/80th. You don't seem to know what you're talking about. It's also weird to get so angry at someone else's personal opinion.
No such thing as a Nikon F1. Nikon F, F2, F3, F4 etc.
good
good
good