Basing this idea on the 1:1 world, the main reason it spits out driveshafts is due to the crazy pinion angle. When we build custom lifted trucks in the full sized space, it's an unwritten rule that the differential pinion angle has to change to eliminate binding. Basically, the differential pinion is rolled back so that it points at the transmission/transfer case thereby eliminating the extreme angle of the driveshaft. But, I know, in the scale world not all the parts we work with are accurate scale parts. So my answer to the driveline issues you're having is to invest in a desktop mill/lathe and machine your own axle tubes and link blocks. Big stretch financially just to fix your driveline issues, however, if you could make the process repeatable you could come up with your own product line and sell the finished diff housings. I'm sure you're not the only person to have this idea. As for my SCX24 driveline issues, mainly in front. I stretched it so that the driveshaft angle isn't so steep. I also have all metal driveline components. Mainly because I'm demanding that the motir/transmission/driveline be able to survive a 3 pound 24th scale rig. She's a heavy girl and because of that she stays planted. At any rate, Adam, I'd be interested to see what you come up with. P. S. A higher turn motor will slow it down and provide more torque. I wish you luck with finding a solution....Peace bro....I'm getting back on this Deadbolt body I'm doing for "somebody." I think it'll be insane when it's done and shipped. 😎
Great job with the build, channel, and helping to bring the next generation into the hobby. I want to recognize your effort. You and a few others inspire me and I appreciate it!
The very first mod you should do for these trucks is throw in a Hobbywing 1060 esc. The stock 1 runs the motor so hot, it causes the transmission gears to eventually become brittle. The shocks from the new K5 Blazer are a nice upgrade and use the same mounts as stock. The SCX24 metal driveshafts fit also. Once any kind of power is added to these trucks though, the ring and pinion gears just can't handle it. I went through 3 sets before I discoverd Furitek's metal monster truck gears are a direct fit, although they are a pricey upgrade at $25 a pop and you need 4 sets to have enough pinion gears (1 ring gear left over extra). For the stock transmission, the metal Rock Van gears are also a direct fit. The only thing I haven't been able to address is the stock links. Why FMS decided to go with the weird skid mounts, is beyond me.
That build looks amazing, especially as a scale build. I don’t know if anyone already mentioned it but the SCX24 gear ratio is designed for the worm drive axles. Worm drive gears don’t directly translate to bevel cut gears so it will drive way faster ❤
Good point! Worm gear, probably more torque, but MUCH slower due to 1 worm turn being the equivalent of whatever gear it's meshing with. If that makes sense? Did I get it right?😂
@@ejg4069 a bevel gear for example that’s a 33/13 could turn the tyres a quarter or twice or three times as fast as a 33/13 worm gear depending on the pitch per teeth because the worm gear has to turn way more times to completely the same revolution of the ring gear as the bevel. Worm gears also cause way more wear and heat due to being a friction drive transfer of power as it has a greater constant gear contact that continuously slides across the teeth whereas a bevel gear teeth or temporarily make contact as each tooth of the pinion gear teeth engage then disengage if that makes sense.
Hi I’m enjoying watching your utube videos, I find that you are very thorough with your views and your videos on builds are easy to follow, keep sending them through.
I did it the opposite way. I left the trans and motor alone and put in scx24 axles then adder mofo rc dually adapters with mudslingers all around then I built a towtruck boom with functional winch. She is super slow but will tow/haul anything
Hey man, I have an atlas also and I put a lot of work into it. I put Fcx24 portal axles on it which allowed me to put brass on them for weight since the stock atlas axles have no upgrades. I then took aluminum Fcx24 oil filled shocks and bolted those right up to it. Then I put some injora brass beadlock rims on rc4wd mudslinger tires. It looks way better with those axles because they are wider then stock and it looks way meaner. I was gonna put a furitek system in it but I’m only a kid and don’t have the money for it. So I’m going to do the same motor and transmission as you, but hooked up to the scx24 esc and remote for better modulation since it sucks on the stock atlas. I’m hoping that that portal axles will gear it down a little but if not, I’ll gear the transmission down as well. The links for the rear axle was much trial and error, I got it to work with some links but the articulation was not what I wanted, but in the end I ended up moving the mount back by drilling some new holes in the frame about 1/3 of an inch and used the stock links with a longer driveline to match. I don’t know what driveline I used since it came out of my parts graveyard as well. Thank you
I also forgot to add that when you do the portal front axle, it gets rid of the pan hard bar and makes it a normal four link front. But you cant run the 4 link front with the stock motor because the forth link doesn’t fit with the placement of the motor. So you have to go to the rcawd or the furitek to get the fourth link. I ran it on three links for a while and never had an issue. You also get a axle mounted servo in which I put an eco power on and it for no problem. I was gonna put a micro 99 but I haven’t tried to see if it’ll clear everything ok yet.
Hello I did the stretch but I did it differently. The back rearend is Heald on by a bracket. All I did was move the bracket back to the back set of holes and file off the line up pins off and drill another set of holes for the back mounting holes. Then made a new drive shaft and put a set of mud slinger tires all a round they made a big difference. I got the idea from anothter utube channel . that done the same thing
I installed a TRX4M transmission with low gears and holmes hobbies 66t motor! Its a beast on the rocks but the diff gears struggle with the torque. Video of the build coming soon!
I’ve been thinking about making mine a 4x4 and shortening it. Basically eliminating the center axle and moving the rear up, then cut the back of the frame off ..
As always great content! And cool to see something a little different. My franken builds are some of my favorite. This build has a subtle look, you can tell its a build but it takes a minute to study.
I have a furitek komoto moter plus furitek pro esc. The injora drive shaft are a simple bolt up. I am going to be installing fms newer fms 6x6 axles with metal gears.
Fantastic project. Funny : i'm working now on the same. Yes, the Furitek products are the best to get a beast from this rig... for twice the price of the RTR basic Atlas. 😢 The way i chose for mine : FCX24 stock motor & transmission + "tarsi" Micro ESC + micro receiver (i keep the original transmitter) + no roll cage/bumper/dummy side exhausts (minus 100 grams) + My own DIY soft springs on both rear axles. Same wheels and axles. This is a low budget project and i hope it'll work fine when it's finished. Very interested in your way to improve this Atlas. I keep an eye on the next videos about it. 👍😉
Hi, really love this vid because i am currently building one myself and there a not many vids out there on this. I will be using a complete trx4m electronics system. Have to drill out the frame to use the trx4m skidplate. I am using scx24 axles and i think this would solve your speed issue and your driveshaft issue. The stock atlas axles are almost a 1:1 ratio where the scx24 are a more realistic 4:1. Hope this helps and thanks for the great vids👍
I did cr18p axles with MofoRc bam motor to a Trx4m transmission with speed gears. It was a bit of custom parts and modifications but it has amazing slow crawl now
I love my Atlas with the Furitek Rhino. If you wanted to leverage your parts bin the other thing you could do is swap portal axles into. This would lower the gearing. Panda hobby makes a portal axle with a rear output for their 6x6. It also runs worm gears which will also help. I really like your channel, particularly your consistency in testing builds on your indoor course. I also enjoy videos like this where the outcome does not quite match the idea that got you started - requiring you to improvise. Great work.
My friends have some TRX4ms and when they get upgrades they come to me and ask if I can help. They get to spend the money I get to put it together. Love the video
All you need for slow crawl is metal gears for the stock trans and Scx24 axles. They have more reduction than stock axles and make the stock motor or mofo torque beast I put in mine more than enough
@@CapeCrawlers Yes the stock atlas trans. It has more reduction than the rcawd trans then stock Scx24 axles are way higher reduction than atlas axles to get the torque needed. Also did a hobby wing 1060 esc
Super cool. Just need to put 4 drag slicks on the back😂 but if ur going to make a climber and tow rig from it definitely need to take that spare and cage off the back. Can't wait to see what u come up with. I do know it would look good with a suspension setup like u have on that blue jeep
It is almost funny to me that you have had so many issues with that RCAWD 180 motor and scx transmission combo across the different builds. I have had the exact same combo in my comp style scx and had literally 0 complaints. Going to try to build something oddball around it soon since I finally killed the chassis with a fall last weekend. Great build and video either way!!
I keep trying to stuff it into everything except an scx24. I have the same motor/transmission I my sons scx24 gladiator and it works amazing, which is why I keep trying to use it elsewhere 😆
Have you thought about trying to fit the FCX24 two speed into it? The best of both worlds, crawler gears and speed. Plus you can run a 180 motor in it.
@CapeCrawlers I don't think the motor mount has the same screw pattern. Do you know anyone with a 3d printer? It would be a very easy thing to model and print in good plastic. Also, the new cr18p has a 2 speed in it now with all metal gears. RcAWD might have some sort of mount that may adapt either 2 speed. Or check Shapeways. I've also got the Atlas 6x6 and have been thinking of designing and 3d printing a mount to make either 2 speed work in the Atlas.
Glad I didn't buy that motor/gearbox combo when it first got advertised as supporting the CR18P and the Atlas! Looks to be absolute junk here! Looking forward to seeing it with a brushless setup
I want to make ours a tow rig. My son likes the speed but this is too much. I'd like to find a middle ground where it can tow but still cruise around pretty swiftly
Lower torque would certainly be better imho. Frankensteining stuff is so reminiscent of the early days of rc-ing. Brings back memories. Thanks for the video
@CapeCrawlers I wonder if adding shock mounting plates, to change the height or angle, would help. I know that would mean replacing or modding the drive shafts. But during the run portion of the video, it looked like there was some binding going on. As well as when you had it on the bench.
@@CapeCrawlers Mofo makes the gear for stock SCX axles, but you have to drill the diff cover yourself. Naturally I bought the Atlas with big ideas in mind - right before the Furitek Cayman Pro came out...😠
Rcawd trans for the fcx24 builds are just geared way to high for any type of crawling. Sucks because not many are building metal trans for the 1/18 scale fms rigs.
Great video as usual. Is there an upgrade path to the atlas 6x6 as far as brass weight goes? I like the vehicle but I don't see alot of upgrade like the trx4m and fcx24.
I am trying to put a brushed injora 050 66t intomy k10 FMS and it stops after 10 ft,let it go and go again the same thing happens?? I love the power and torque for the bigger tires I am running. what can I do??
Any mods you do , like "streching" still won't help with the biggest problem, it just wants to go straight on instead of turning, and like i told before making it 6 x 6 x 6 had it's own challenges for the middle axle... I am at the point trying just making the rear axle steering and see how it goes... p.s. The option to loose rear axle drive helps with the steering, but a 6 x 4 x 6 just doesn't sound right...
And it would get rid of the stock esc, which is less than great in my opinion. I've seen one of these where someone put a servo on the rear axle. It was pretty impressive!
@@CapeCrawlers oh, tbh i skipped the whole " get an FMS and upgrade" thing and went to the Furitek Cayman 4 x 4 and 6 x 6 was cheaper then upgrading my FMS Power Wagen and buying and Atlas and upgrade that too... LOL
Heyyy hi I am srihari from India I'm also start like your channel in India Place guide me In India these type of RC control car zeeps not available soooo
I would love to see someone make a lower gear set for the scx transmission. Actually kinda shocked it hasn't been done. Seems easy enough to change tooth count. But I'm no machinist to try it. And might be limited on how low you can gear due to case size? Maybe someone knows already...
@@CapeCrawlers I'm gonna keep my fingers crossed! Would love to lose my big fcx 2spd I never use high in anyway. I did pull my servo out and locked it in low. After all the headache of setting it up in a grasshopper chassis with the skid moved up and forward. But I want to keep my low gearing with it.
Timestamps
Upgrades: 0:33
Installation highlights: 3:20
Finished product and recap: 5:56
First runs and crawling footage: 10:35
Final thoughts: 13:27
Basing this idea on the 1:1 world, the main reason it spits out driveshafts is due to the crazy pinion angle. When we build custom lifted trucks in the full sized space, it's an unwritten rule that the differential pinion angle has to change to eliminate binding. Basically, the differential pinion is rolled back so that it points at the transmission/transfer case thereby eliminating the extreme angle of the driveshaft. But, I know, in the scale world not all the parts we work with are accurate scale parts. So my answer to the driveline issues you're having is to invest in a desktop mill/lathe and machine your own axle tubes and link blocks. Big stretch financially just to fix your driveline issues, however, if you could make the process repeatable you could come up with your own product line and sell the finished diff housings. I'm sure you're not the only person to have this idea. As for my SCX24 driveline issues, mainly in front. I stretched it so that the driveshaft angle isn't so steep. I also have all metal driveline components. Mainly because I'm demanding that the motir/transmission/driveline be able to survive a 3 pound 24th scale rig. She's a heavy girl and because of that she stays planted. At any rate, Adam, I'd be interested to see what you come up with. P. S. A higher turn motor will slow it down and provide more torque. I wish you luck with finding a solution....Peace bro....I'm getting back on this Deadbolt body I'm doing for "somebody." I think it'll be insane when it's done and shipped. 😎
Thanks God I found this channel
The explanation, the visuals …
Top Rc channel
Great job with the build, channel, and helping to bring the next generation into the hobby. I want to recognize your effort. You and a few others inspire me and I appreciate it!
Thank you, I appreciate that!
The very first mod you should do for these trucks is throw in a Hobbywing 1060 esc. The stock 1 runs the motor so hot, it causes the transmission gears to eventually become brittle. The shocks from the new K5 Blazer are a nice upgrade and use the same mounts as stock. The SCX24 metal driveshafts fit also. Once any kind of power is added to these trucks though, the ring and pinion gears just can't handle it. I went through 3 sets before I discoverd Furitek's metal monster truck gears are a direct fit, although they are a pricey upgrade at $25 a pop and you need 4 sets to have enough pinion gears (1 ring gear left over extra). For the stock transmission, the metal Rock Van gears are also a direct fit. The only thing I haven't been able to address is the stock links. Why FMS decided to go with the weird skid mounts, is beyond me.
This is great info, thanks!!
Hey man. Cr18 gears fit directly too. Metal. And less than 6-7 bucks anywhere.
That build looks amazing, especially as a scale build. I don’t know if anyone already mentioned it but the SCX24 gear ratio is designed for the worm drive axles. Worm drive gears don’t directly translate to bevel cut gears so it will drive way faster ❤
Good point! Worm gear, probably more torque, but MUCH slower due to 1 worm turn being the equivalent of whatever gear it's meshing with. If that makes sense? Did I get it right?😂
@@ejg4069 a bevel gear for example that’s a 33/13 could turn the tyres a quarter or twice or three times as fast as a 33/13 worm gear depending on the pitch per teeth because the worm gear has to turn way more times to completely the same revolution of the ring gear as the bevel. Worm gears also cause way more wear and heat due to being a friction drive transfer of power as it has a greater constant gear contact that continuously slides across the teeth whereas a bevel gear teeth or temporarily make contact as each tooth of the pinion gear teeth engage then disengage if that makes sense.
Hi I’m enjoying watching your utube videos, I find that you are very thorough with your views and your videos on builds are easy to follow, keep sending them through.
Thanks for watching!
I did it the opposite way. I left the trans and motor alone and put in scx24 axles then adder mofo rc dually adapters with mudslingers all around then I built a towtruck boom with functional winch. She is super slow but will tow/haul anything
Hey man, I have an atlas also and I put a lot of work into it. I put Fcx24 portal axles on it which allowed me to put brass on them for weight since the stock atlas axles have no upgrades. I then took aluminum Fcx24 oil filled shocks and bolted those right up to it. Then I put some injora brass beadlock rims on rc4wd mudslinger tires. It looks way better with those axles because they are wider then stock and it looks way meaner. I was gonna put a furitek system in it but I’m only a kid and don’t have the money for it. So I’m going to do the same motor and transmission as you, but hooked up to the scx24 esc and remote for better modulation since it sucks on the stock atlas. I’m hoping that that portal axles will gear it down a little but if not, I’ll gear the transmission down as well. The links for the rear axle was much trial and error, I got it to work with some links but the articulation was not what I wanted, but in the end I ended up moving the mount back by drilling some new holes in the frame about 1/3 of an inch and used the stock links with a longer driveline to match. I don’t know what driveline I used since it came out of my parts graveyard as well. Thank you
I also forgot to add that when you do the portal front axle, it gets rid of the pan hard bar and makes it a normal four link front. But you cant run the 4 link front with the stock motor because the forth link doesn’t fit with the placement of the motor. So you have to go to the rcawd or the furitek to get the fourth link. I ran it on three links for a while and never had an issue. You also get a axle mounted servo in which I put an eco power on and it for no problem. I was gonna put a micro 99 but I haven’t tried to see if it’ll clear everything ok yet.
I just put those tires on my fcx power wagon. Really liking the look!
Hello I did the stretch but I did it differently. The back rearend is Heald on by a bracket. All I did was move the bracket back to the back set of holes and file off the line up pins off and drill another set of holes for the back mounting holes. Then made a new drive shaft and put a set of mud slinger tires all a round they made a big difference. I got the idea from anothter utube channel . that done the same thing
I installed a TRX4M transmission with low gears and holmes hobbies 66t motor! Its a beast on the rocks but the diff gears struggle with the torque. Video of the build coming soon!
I’ve been thinking about making mine a 4x4 and shortening it. Basically eliminating the center axle and moving the rear up, then cut the back of the frame off ..
Interesting idea!
@@CapeCrawlers it’d be a bit longer than an fcx 24, maybe it’d give it some advantage over the fcx 🤷♂️
I did this- if you use the rear axle, it will turn the opposite way of the front axle.
Tks for the video. Just got mine, looking forward to the mods!
As always great content! And cool to see something a little different. My franken builds are some of my favorite. This build has a subtle look, you can tell its a build but it takes a minute to study.
I have a furitek komoto moter plus furitek pro esc. The injora drive shaft are a simple bolt up. I am going to be installing fms newer fms 6x6 axles with metal gears.
Fantastic project. Funny : i'm working now on the same.
Yes, the Furitek products are the best to get a beast from this rig... for twice the price of the RTR basic Atlas. 😢
The way i chose for mine : FCX24 stock motor & transmission + "tarsi" Micro ESC + micro receiver (i keep the original transmitter) + no roll cage/bumper/dummy side exhausts (minus 100 grams) + My own DIY soft springs on both rear axles.
Same wheels and axles. This is a low budget project and i hope it'll work fine when it's finished.
Very interested in your way to improve this Atlas. I keep an eye on the next videos about it. 👍😉
Hi, really love this vid because i am currently building one myself and there a not many vids out there on this. I will be using a complete trx4m electronics system. Have to drill out the frame to use the trx4m skidplate. I am using scx24 axles and i think this would solve your speed issue and your driveshaft issue. The stock atlas axles are almost a 1:1 ratio where the scx24 are a more realistic 4:1. Hope this helps and thanks for the great vids👍
I'm going to do the scx24 axles next. I'm excited to revisit this thing after the good input I got from the comments here!
Stretching the rear is easier drilling new holes in frame moving the whole third axle back with stock links
I did cr18p axles with MofoRc bam motor to a Trx4m transmission with speed gears. It was a bit of custom parts and modifications but it has amazing slow crawl now
Crazy how you can make a Frankenstein build look like a runway model
Haha! Love it, thank you!
Great build! I actually have that motor transmission combo on my scx24 Gladiator and that motor has tons of torque
Thank you for doing this build it's amazing
Glad you like it!
The cr18 evo trans is a direct swap also, if you're interested in installing another servo to shift it. Its not bad.
Manteb bro😊👍
Channel yang bermanfaat untuk orang yang awam soal RC
Good Job❤👍❤
Awesome video Adam 👍😀
I love my Atlas with the Furitek Rhino. If you wanted to leverage your parts bin the other thing you could do is swap portal axles into. This would lower the gearing. Panda hobby makes a portal axle with a rear output for their 6x6. It also runs worm gears which will also help. I really like your channel, particularly your consistency in testing builds on your indoor course. I also enjoy videos like this where the outcome does not quite match the idea that got you started - requiring you to improvise. Great work.
Thanks! I will check out the Panda axles!
My friends have some TRX4ms and when they get upgrades they come to me and ask if I can help. They get to spend the money I get to put it together. Love the video
Perfect arrangement - as long as you get to drive the trucks!
Good build. I have had an atlas for a while now and still haven't done a lot with it yet.
Hi Adam, looks great this buildt. Looking forward to the next step 😃
All you need for slow crawl is metal gears for the stock trans and Scx24 axles. They have more reduction than stock axles and make the stock motor or mofo torque beast I put in mine more than enough
Stock Atlas trans you mean?
@@CapeCrawlers Yes the stock atlas trans. It has more reduction than the rcawd trans then stock Scx24 axles are way higher reduction than atlas axles to get the torque needed. Also did a hobby wing 1060 esc
The 2 spd trans out of the fms trailbrazer would be a nice addition to this build
Super cool. Just need to put 4 drag slicks on the back😂 but if ur going to make a climber and tow rig from it definitely need to take that spare and cage off the back. Can't wait to see what u come up with. I do know it would look good with a suspension setup like u have on that blue jeep
It is almost funny to me that you have had so many issues with that RCAWD 180 motor and scx transmission combo across the different builds. I have had the exact same combo in my comp style scx and had literally 0 complaints. Going to try to build something oddball around it soon since I finally killed the chassis with a fall last weekend.
Great build and video either way!!
I keep trying to stuff it into everything except an scx24. I have the same motor/transmission I my sons scx24 gladiator and it works amazing, which is why I keep trying to use it elsewhere 😆
Best rc crawler channel by far
Here’s what I just done with my FMS6X6 modifications
I’m going to do this to mine thxs
Man.. rrally wish this was a bit more stout of a platform. I wanna be able to get a micro 6x6 basher lol
Have you thought about trying to fit the FCX24 two speed into it? The best of both worlds, crawler gears and speed. Plus you can run a 180 motor in it.
I have not, will it fit?
@CapeCrawlers I don't think the motor mount has the same screw pattern. Do you know anyone with a 3d printer? It would be a very easy thing to model and print in good plastic. Also, the new cr18p has a 2 speed in it now with all metal gears. RcAWD might have some sort of mount that may adapt either 2 speed. Or check Shapeways. I've also got the Atlas 6x6 and have been thinking of designing and 3d printing a mount to make either 2 speed work in the Atlas.
Great build! Thanks for sharing! You seem to enjoy your mini crawlers than your 1/10 trucks, is this a fair assumption?
I love your videos
Great build!
Different ESC will perform much better-stock FMS18 ESCs build a lot of heat and don't perform great.
Glad I didn't buy that motor/gearbox combo when it first got advertised as supporting the CR18P and the Atlas! Looks to be absolute junk here! Looking forward to seeing it with a brushless setup
Definitely doesn't belong in this truck. The CR18P would have been the same.
I had to upgrade my Rock Van transmission with metal gears as soon as I upgraded the tires
I did the same to my T-hunter. I shredded the plastic transmission gears within minutes.
I think furitek makes a kit for it I would like to see what it does in it. Great video tho!
Yes, the rhino kit!
I wonder if you could put the pro line big bore shocks for the 24s on this rig? 🤔
I love my Atlas. But, it doesn't hold up to crawling stress. So, I scaled it out as a heavy hauler and just take it easy on the drivetrain.
I want to make ours a tow rig. My son likes the speed but this is too much. I'd like to find a middle ground where it can tow but still cruise around pretty swiftly
@@CapeCrawlers Definitely, I use it to haul loads of tires on a flatbed.
Lower torque would certainly be better imho. Frankensteining stuff is so reminiscent of the early days of rc-ing. Brings back memories.
Thanks for the video
I love these type of projects. Frustrating at first but so much fun in the end.
@CapeCrawlers I wonder if adding shock mounting plates, to change the height or angle, would help. I know that would mean replacing or modding the drive shafts. But during the run portion of the video, it looked like there was some binding going on. As well as when you had it on the bench.
If only the Atlas had portals it would be perfect!
Trans is geared for portals and would probably be great with SCX worm drive axles as well.
I've seen folks retrofit SCX24 portals on it although I'm not sure how they made a passthrough setup for the middle axle
@@CapeCrawlers
Mofo makes the gear for stock SCX axles, but you have to drill the diff cover yourself.
Naturally I bought the Atlas with big ideas in mind - right before the Furitek Cayman Pro came out...😠
dust off the 3d printer! Hows it going now? Any files around for this thing
Rcawd trans for the fcx24 builds are just geared way to high for any type of crawling. Sucks because not many are building metal trans for the 1/18 scale fms rigs.
It's a bummer because I like their setup. The hardware is nice and that motor has tons of power!
Is there any portals available for the 6x6???
I saw that the axles on these suck so I’ve seen people put scx24 axles on them and there good.
That's my next step I think. SCX24 axles would solve my gearing issues and give me more options to customize
Great video as usual. Is there an upgrade path to the atlas 6x6 as far as brass weight goes? I like the vehicle but I don't see alot of upgrade like the trx4m and fcx24.
Thanks! I haven't seen any brass options for it unfortunately
I am trying to put a brushed injora 050 66t intomy k10 FMS and it stops after 10 ft,let it go and go again the same thing happens?? I love the power and torque for the bigger tires I am running. what can I do??
Any mods you do , like "streching" still won't help with the biggest problem, it just wants to go straight on instead of turning, and like i told before making it 6 x 6 x 6 had it's own challenges for the middle axle... I am at the point trying just making the rear axle steering and see how it goes...
p.s. The option to loose rear axle drive helps with the steering, but a 6 x 4 x 6 just doesn't sound right...
p.s. ( 2 ) have you tried only bigger wheels on the front and stock-size in the back ? Make it more like a Euro-style truck... 😎
Furitek Rhino, good choice, and to be honest with furitek there's no need for 2 gears... lol
And it would get rid of the stock esc, which is less than great in my opinion. I've seen one of these where someone put a servo on the rear axle. It was pretty impressive!
@@CapeCrawlers oh, tbh i skipped the whole " get an FMS and upgrade" thing and went to the Furitek Cayman 4 x 4 and 6 x 6 was cheaper then upgrading my FMS Power Wagen and buying and Atlas and upgrade that too... LOL
how come you don't need to add a better esc puting in a bigger motor?
I could have got one of these a few months ago for $149. kinda regret not gettin it
Keep an eye out for sales around labor day. They usually discount the Atlas heavily around holiday sales
@@CapeCrawlers I just ordered the FMS Atlas 1/10 and got a free FMS Magnun truck with it! So I'm good for a little while.. maybe... lol
Perhaps I'm wrong but it looked like the driveshafts were out of phase
Most likely. It was spitting them out so fast I was just throwing them back in towards the end
🔥👍
Hi
Heyyy hi I am srihari from India
I'm also start like your channel in India
Place guide me
In India these type of RC control car zeeps not available soooo
Where are you from, please suggest your opinion on this my start new channel like your, how to get quality vehicles,
I would love to see someone make a lower gear set for the scx transmission. Actually kinda shocked it hasn't been done. Seems easy enough to change tooth count. But I'm no machinist to try it. And might be limited on how low you can gear due to case size? Maybe someone knows already...
LGRP may or may not be developing one as we speak...
@@CapeCrawlers I'm gonna keep my fingers crossed! Would love to lose my big fcx 2spd I never use high in anyway. I did pull my servo out and locked it in low. After all the headache of setting it up in a grasshopper chassis with the skid moved up and forward. But I want to keep my low gearing with it.