Soundproofing Basement Ceilings - Finished & Unfinished!
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- Опубліковано 26 гру 2022
- In this video I will talk about how to soundproof a basement ceiling, wether you're trying to soundproof a finished basement ceiling or soundproof an unfinished basement ceiling.
Using soundproofing materials like mass loaded vinyl MLV, resilient channel and thicker drywall will help with soundproofing but you will need more than that to make your basement peaceful.
Here are some of the soundproofing material I talk about in this video.
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Here are the list of products I use and recommend. These links are from Amazon and Home Depot to give you more options.
1. Green Glue Noise Proofing Compound
Amazon - amzn.to/3qIZklR
2. Carpet Glue 1 Gallon
Amazon - amzn.to/38b6dGf
Home Depot - homedepot.sjv.io/GjYqXB
4. Mass Loaded Vinyl
Amazon - amzn.to/36zwZaN
5. Putty Pads
Amazon - amzn.to/3R4KTCZ
6. Mineral Wool Insulation
Amazon - amzn.to/3RJea77
7. Resilient Channel
Amazon - amzn.to/3Rw6x34
8. My Work Gloves - amzn.to/3K0wqpG
9. Small Tool Set - amzn.to/3Aph9f1
10. Short Ladder - amzn.to/3Atb80O
11. Safety Glasses - amzn.to/3AphuhN
Links to the three Playlist to soundproof your doors, windows and walls!
Soundproof Doors - • Door Soundproofing
Soundproof Windows - • Window Soundproofing
Soundproof Walls - • Soundproofing Walls
Articles to check out for any soundproofing projects! Especially the DIY!
1. Doors - soundproofguide.com/15-best-w...
2. Windows - soundproofguide.com/how-to-so...
3. Floors - soundproofguide.com/how-to-so...
4. Ceilings - soundproofguide.com/how-to-so...
Bear in mind that some of the links in this video are affiliate links, and if you go through them to make a purchase, I will earn a commission. Keep in mind that I link these companies and their products because of their quality and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours, and whether or not you decide to buy something is completely up to you.
Copyright Disclaimer Under Section 107 of the Copyright Act 1976, allowance is made for "fair use" for purposes such as criticism, comment, news reporting, teaching, scholarship, and research. Fair use is a use permitted by copyright statute that might otherwise be infringing. Non-profit, educational, or personal use tips the balance in favor of fair use.
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Full info Soundproofing Basement Ceiling with Links - soundproofguide.com/how-to-soundproof-a-basement-ceiling/
Can’t you pump insulation into a finished ceiling joist cavity and it would reduce impact noise? Maybe not with light cans or planned future work
What is acoustic sealant that you are talking about that goes between the layers of drywall?
Hi, I have a drop-down ceiling in the basement, and the floor above creaks. I don't mind some noise, but would love to hear a suggestion on how to minimize the creaking without re-laying floor or get rid of the drop down ceiling. There is a decent bit of room to play with as the floor rafters are 2x8 (spaced 16 inches center to center). Beneath that, there is another 8 inches of "air" before hitting the top of the drop-down ceiling.
Would MLV work better if it was constrained between gypsum or sitting on top of the top layer so it is limp (sealed at edges) ?
If your going to leave the basement ceiling exposed, do you have a recommendation on the best way to sound proof?
Hello, I want to soundproof my bedroom. I don't mind removing the ceiling to soundproof. The problem I'm having is my neighbors footsteps. My question for you is, what do I do if I have central AC and I have one vent in the ceiling? also I want to keep my ceiling fan. Can you tell me where I could find an adjustible electric box. I also have recessed lighting in the room. Can please give my a suggestion to this diy project. Thanks
1/4 inch cork underlayment could be contact cemented to ceiling before dry wall and has twice the sound deadening of mass loaded vinyl at half the cost.
Mass loaded vinyl and the cork deaden different frequencies more or less.
Best I found is run furring strips opposite the joists on 16" centers, with rubber washer/spacers between the floor joists and furring strips. Then rockwool above that, using the furring strips to help hold it up. Then I would hang that with double layer drywall to those furring strips. You will still hear hard stomps on hard flooring above, but it won't be nearly as alarming.
What size furring strips did you use? I guess you have to lower the light boxes down using 2 sheets of drywall?
@kevinevans4367 just those 3/4" cheap ones. Yeah you gotta lower your lights to compensate
I have a small basement room which I want to make a home theatre room. After I sound proof the ceiling, what would you recommend I do with the walls that are concrete? Two of those walls are outside walls. Thanks!
I can tell you exactly what you should do, as I am going through the same thing. First you need a vapor barrier/insulator installed 1/4" off the block wall. You would use at least 1" or thicker rigid foam insulation for this. You put a spacer on the bottom that also spaces out the back of the sheet 1/4", and another 1/4" spacer up top. You can hold these on with double sided tape. Then you use 4 big globs of glue on the corners of your sheet, and stick it to the wall. It should go from the 1/4" off the floor, to up inside your joist cavities. Spray foam any gaps in those joists to lock the sheet in place. Seam tape every joint.
From there you can frame your wall in front if you are going with an unfinished concrete floor. Use a treated bottom plate on your framing. OR...
You could first install a dimpled plastic product like DMX 1-step on your concrete, and run that to your foam boards. Cover this with click-lock flooring, or preferably cover with OSB, tapcon to the concrete below, then run all your interior walls on top of that subfloor, and then whatever flooring finish you would like on top. This gives you a sealed system that keeps all the nasty moisture off of your finishes. They will last far longer.
Hi there, I got a question:
I have a very thin ceiling, causing my neighbours to hear me when I am just talking a little louder in the evening. Since I do recordings (just talking + laughing, no singing or shouting) I plan to build a little booth for me. What would you recommend is the cheapest and most effective way to to this? All I need is my neighbours not hearing me talk a little louder and laughing.
Room within a room. A large 2x4 or metal stud frames telephone booth with double layer of drywall without touching exiting walls?
if im playing drums in the basement, should I line the upstairs floor with mass loaded vinyl under the carpet? or is that only necessary for impact noise and won't help keep drum sounds in the basement
Generally speaking anything that is a perfectly air/water sealed material should keep sound out.
The issue is gonna be just how much more soundproofing it does. Let's say you have a finished ceiling where there's thick/heavy insulation and you have drywall. The vinyl might do very little.
If you have open basement ceiling joists and you can see the insulation or foam between them, then i would say the mass loaded vinyl might be worth the money.
are the channels able to easily handle 2 layers of drywall and MLV, to my inexperienced self it seems like that wouldn't be very sturdy?
Some are but you will need to make sure that they are rated for it.
I have a question. On a finished ceiling, would you recommend using resilient channels then a layer of 5/8" drywall?
or is accoustic compound between the 2 layers sufficient?
Also, do you recommend regular 5/8" or a Type X 5/8"?
TIA!
Great question! You can only use resilient channel on an unfinished wall since they have to go directly on the studs.
I would use regular 5/8” drywall. You should also not go with the featherlight drywall since they don’t block as much noise as the regular, heavier drywall.
@@soundproofguide thanks for the reply.
Not sure where you're located, but the Ontario Building Code does have a floor assembly SB-3 "F7", that has the resilient channel sandwiched between 2 layers of drywall.
In the OBC, the different they have with or without the resilient channel with 2 layers is only a STC rating of 2.
So hence my question between the accoustic compound vs resilient channels.
I have ductwork that I can’t remove. Is it even worth doing any sound proofing if I can’t remove the ductwork?
no not at all, I spent $50,000 to re model/soundproof my basement with all modern techniques and the duct work negates all my efforts
unless you plan on blocking all ducting (and even then) ... you can still hear noise from all levels
Hi there, I have a question:
I know Acoustic Sound Foam Panels are ment for absorbing sounds and for echo, but if i added Acoustic Sound Foam Panels from both sides of the door would it make it slightly quietere from me hearing people talk next room and them hearing me talk?
No, it won’t do anything to mitigate that.
@@soundproofguide Oh ok, thx.
The z resilient channels are a hit or miss. I'd rather spent $200-$300 more on isolation clips with hat channels. I find them easier to install & your drywall will be more secured on the ceiling
You’re right, that’s something else I could have talked in the video. I’ll soon make a video about these different types of channels.
How to ventilate a soundproof room without hearing the ventilation unit?
The insulation inside the cavity 🦷 will help drown out the noise of the ventilation ducts.
Obviously the fan unit will be placed outside the building envelope, I think your question relates to: in the absence of all other external noise one will hear the fan noise coming in thru the ducts.
There exists a thing called a 'plenum chamber'.. That sits in the duct line and provides a labyrinth of acoustically absorbent materials.
I built an office in my basement. In between the joists and attached to the subfloor above, I used 2 layers of 5/8 QuietRock with Green Glue Noiseproofing compound and caulked the perimeter of that drywall with Green Glue Noiseproofing sealent. Then I put one layer of Rockwool Safe N Sound up against the drywall and then a layer of Owens Corning R21 rockwool leaving about a 2" gap between the two layers of insulation.
The exterior walls are one layer of 5/8 QuietRock and the interior walls are standard 5/8 DRYWALL. I used the Green Glue Noiseproofing sealent around the perimeter of the drywall and where each sheet touched another sheet. The studs are 24" OC. When we attached the top plate to the joists, we left a 1/4" gap for decoupling so the only thing connecting the top plate to the joist are 3.5" construction screws. In hindsight, I don't think we should've done that. I think we should've attached the top plate directly to the floor joists.
The voices from above are greatly reduced and I can barely hear any conversation coming from upstairs. However, the impact noise is still an issue. I was planning on a suspended ceiling but I think I'm going to try isolation clips, hat channel and 5/8" drywall.
Finally, the children can be quiet
What if your son lives down there and tears the ceiling down and complains about you walking upstairs?
Kick his ass
kick him out
probably the worst video i have ever seen
🤣
hello, i found out you use rock wool in between floor to help reduce the sound between floor.. but why i put the rock wool in the window insert, it wont help too much the sound come from the window from outside? is it because the mass is not enough?i need to squeeze the rock wool in the window insert..
That’s correct! It’s not a noise “blocker” but a noise absorber. It helps drown out noise, the drywall is what then blocks some of the noise.
@@soundproofguide Hi Can I have your contact information?