After months of sleepless nights in our DC condo we used your product for our bedroom ceiling. We went with all possible improvements. The main issue were cracking subfloors that would wake us up in the middle of the night with our neighbor’s steps. He had a carpet and a mat underneath but it was his weight that made the poorly attached subfloor crack as crazy. In addition to using your product, we added glue in the subfloor / joist intersection, double drywall AND truly resilient channels mounted on infependent clips, not the channels screwed to the joist like in this video. Sleeping like babies ever since.
We are currently losing our minds with the upstairs neighbors. My apartment vibrates and shakes whenever they stomp around. BOOM BOOM BOOM BOOM. I really hope this can at least help somewhat. We are desperate.
I’m in the same boat. We purchased our condo not long ago, and we only have one gripe. Our upstairs neighbors Is let’s just say a bit rotund, and we will wake up in the middle of the night to what sounds like he’s going to crash through our roof. I wonder what this costs? Say for a 9x9?
I need you to make a video of this or more detail of how u do it! I live downstairs and the squeaks are the worst for me and my husband I’m due in 3 months and I want some type of rest before I loose it all :(
Spinel, How much did it cost if yoy dont mind me asking? My abive neighbor is on the heavy side and i can here her steps, bed squeaking, and dog bark. I been considering getting this installed.
I used this same method when I finished my basement a few months ago and it’s absolutely remarkable.. It’s so nice not hearing my wife have sex upstairs while I’m reading or browsing the Internet.
Thank you for this video! Short and sweet. I was running short on time before my ceiling soundproofing contractor stopped by to provide a quote. I watched this video, took notes, and sounded a bit more like I knew what I was talking about. Very straightforward video and (thankfully!) under 5 minutes long.
we used your product in the ceiling and under the house during renovations, and we are very impressed. Rarely run the AC, and no longer hear the squirrels running on the roof. I refuse to go back to fiberglass insulation. Even our handyman is switching to Roxul. My only complaint is that I have to special order it from Lowes or Home Depot, and they don't have access to all your products. Wish they would carry it in store. Even some of the employees are not familiar with what Roxul is, said they never used it.
Hello David, To install the resilient channel to the studs, we recommend using 5/8” coarse-thread screws. To install the drywall to the resilient channel, consider 2 things: 1) Install screws such that they are placed between the studs and not into them. If the screws that penetrate the drywall are driven into the studs themselves, the value of the resilient channel is lost. 2) Use fine-thread drywall screws designed for light gauge steel; ¾” screws will work nicely. Thank you - ROXUL
Great video but you forgot to mention one important point. Noise transmission through the ductwork. You can insulate till the cows come home but if you don't address this issue you may be disappointed with your effort. Just think of all those old movies where the sea captain pulls the plug out of a pipe and communicates through it to the engine room...same principal. You can cure this issue by acoustically lining the ductwork. This is common practice in high end sound studios.
This is exactly what I have been looking for to defeat a blaring tv and yelling from the floor above me! I will be buying this over the next week! Thank you!
you don't see a lot of resilient channel used, people don't know about it. I also like how you kept the insulation off the subfloor to create a space, but you didn't make a point of saying thats how you should do it. the spaces between the materials is really what captures the most of the sound.
Matthew Van Helden Matthew Van Helden I had no idea about the space in between I installed R-13 Foam against neighboring wall then because I still heard them, I put in another R-13 of the fiberglass pink stuff for R-26 because I didn’t know about Roxul at the time and it was less sound but I can hear their kid 🧒🏻 running around, wish I had known about the SPACE in between Roxul and the Wood to TRAP the sound! Grrrrrr!
Matthew Van Helden subfloor meaning the ceiling? So there should be space from the insulation and ceiling as well as the insulation and drywall? Am I understanding that correctly? Thanks
Chud Yee SO, your ceiling, their floor. Now that we have that clear. Lets talk in layers. The bottom of their floor is one layer. Leave an air space layer, under their floor, then add the Roxsul layer, when you add the metal channel, you will be creating a space layer between the Roxsul and the channel. Then you add the drywall. You end up having a space layer before the insulation, then after the insulation, then comes the drywall. So you have 2chances for the sound to get trapped ir disspate by the time it reaches the drywall, which is YOUR ceiling.
Sorry to bother you. I am studying to do it in my ceiling. Between the wood joist and the metal channel, should have a gap air or should be screwed? Bcz in the video he says that the metal channel should work independlty but looks all attached. Thanks
I have nothing but great things to say about Roxul and I am glad that it is being produced in America. I used to have to special order this stuff from Canada when we first got into business. Here is a tip, Do not install the resilient channel right at the border of your walls (in the video it is done this way and it is not ideal and could short out the system) There needs to be a space there so you do not couple your wall/ceiling assembly. That way any transmission by the ceiling will not transfer as much to the walls (which could amplify the problem)
Bluelemonzz Yes, Good luck on your project. The clips perform even better than just channel itself if done right. Make sure you use the Roxul as it does absorb the lower frequencies a bit better
This is exactly what I needed this is rad, thank you! My rooms in my basement since my sister still lives in my house, she’s 20 and I’m 16. We out grew our shared room years ago and I never minded the basement except for one thing, my parents smoke next to my door and they both have smokers cough, and the old house’s floor boards are so loud sometimes I can’t think! This is PERFECT
@Neil Floris - Thank you for the recommendation on the ISOMax clips!!! I found a local rep and just ordered to use on the ceiling of my office. The rep also suggested overlapping 2 layers of 5/8" sheetrock. Just an FYI for anyone that's serious about this.
Generally a good video but a little light on the details. How do you put the Safe-N-Sound around the cross-bracing? Cut it to fit? Compress? Around Pot lights? Other impediments? If you want to use the vibration dampening channels what would you do about pot light fixtures that are already set up for 1/2 inch drywall? Does Safe-N-Sound have insulation value? I imagine it does. What is the R value? I know it's not made for insulation specifically but since it's made out of the same material as the insulation it must insulate to some degree. Do the pot lights have to be IC rated when using Safe-N-Sound? BTW, I love your product. I've re-insulated my whole home with your Rockwool goodness. Wouldn't use anything else.
You crack me up! Roxul even if it were 12 feet thick wouldn't soundproof more than about 6 Db, the only way to actually sound proof is to use limp high mass materials like lead which we don't use any more so lots of drywall and stagger the sheets each layer and glue all but the first one on. All that will do is help out with the sound bouncing around between the two layers keeping reverb at bay but if I were playing bass at a moderate 75 Db it would travel right through that wool like it wasn't there. The resilient channels are a great item as long as you don't screw through the ceiling drywall into the joists. I have had to correct rooms where someone used Roxul for "soundproofing" at least 4 times and the disappointment on the persons face was pretty evident when they tested it and the baby upstairs woke up within a few seconds. If you plan to sound proof, look up the STC of these materials first and save yourself a lot of grief. But I bet he can get you a great deal on the Brooklyn Bridge. Now if you want real advice from someone who builds A list studios for a living and does not want to sell you anything, go here. It is all based on real science and no sales. He even knows more than me! I studied on my own for about 5 years, this guy went to school and has built some very very nice studios that have frequency and reverb time charts and his website has a room mode analyzer too prevent standing waves so you don't have to dived twice the length into sound in feet per seconds and then make a chart with every multiple of your answer up to 400Hz etc for free. You will love this man for the time and money he will save you. And for the free education he spreads around. The guy here is selling Roxul so it's magic stuff that defies physics apparently. ua-cam.com/channels/mAjEZ1xMg-0KA6AxYJm-Pg.html
This isn't bad, but it isn't the best approach. I do like Roxul Safe & Sound. Though many home theater/sound mitigation sites will say that you will get essentially the same affect with plain fiberglass, I've experienced the audible difference of having bats, blow-in fiberglass and two layers of Roxul side by side by side in a 2x6 wall facing a major freeway. Roxul did have an noticeable impact as I couldn't hear anything through the Roxul but I could still hear some traffic noise through the two fiberglass installation types. (justifying the price difference vs performance is subjective decision). However, to the overall approach shown here, acoustic caulk sealing and insulation is critical, and resilient channel is better than going straight to studs, but resilient channel and a layer of drywall does not provide nearly the same sound mitigation as using sound isolation clips with hat channel and at least two layers of 5/8th with a dampening product (like Green Glue or Quiet Glue Pro). Not addressing all the plain sheetmetal air ducts and possibly the side walls (look up 'sound flanking') could also minimize the impact of the effort.
Csab the clips are expensive but remember you only get one shot at soundproofing. If you put up the ceiling and you're not happy with the result it's not an easy fix
What you have installed is for airborne sound only. Impact isolation is done through the use of a 5 - 6mm resilient layer on the floor above. If you cant treat the floor above you need a independent ceiling at least 150mm void full filled with dense mineral fibre insulation and 2 layers of 15mm sound board. We have tested enough of these floors to know. However this still does not prevent structural transmission.
You could use O rings or rubber washers between the screws and the joists /resilient channels. If the goal is to reduce sound wave transmission, you have to insulate them from each others with a non resonating material.
Great video, thank you for posting this. How much ceiling height is sacrificed by the resilient channel? And do you recommend sound isolation clips also?
Three questions: 1.a. Can or should we be able to put insulation? 1.b. If yes, should it go above or below the Rockwool? 2. Does the Resilient Channel take the place of strapping?
Great video. I was thinking of doing this for my am recording studio. Can you please address how you would do the electrical wiring for lights etc with resilient channels and drywalls? As in how do you install a light fixture without sound traveling through? Do you just make holes in the actual drywall?
Roxul is a wonderful product, I took a small piece of it home from Lowes and I was able to melt a penny in the palm of my hand using only the little piece of Roxul as protection. I've put a torch to it and it doesn't burn, it will scorch and dissipate but trying the same thing with closed cell foam or fiber glass will get you hurt. So for my money, knowing that I've not only got great sound dampening but that I've also protected each and every room in my house with the equivalent of a fire resistant wall is great peace of mind. Just think the fumes from burning Spray foam in a house fire will kill you before the flames ever get to you, so no thanks and fiber glass has been shown to be almost as bad for your health as asbestos the only reason why it's not illegal is because it's cheap and grandfathered in and if installed wrong it loses most all effectiveness.
Hello SFP, SAFE’n’SOUND is optimized for sound attenuation; the thickness of the batts are carefully designed. The 3” batt leaves a ½” space in the wall when built with 2x4s; this space helps to minimize sound transfer through the wall. If you have the space, you may use an additional layer of SAFE’n’SOUND. Elements such as resilient channel (or acoustic clips), thicker and even doubled up layers of drywall are highly beneficial for overall sound attenuation. Best of luck- ROXUL
I recently installed Roxul's "Safe and Sound" (24" OC) in my office ceiling, Roxul's R15 (16" OC) in the walls, and Roxul's R30 in the floor. The R15 & R30 batts are super easy to fit and a dream to work with, but..... I noticed that my "Safe and Sounds" batts (when compared to what you show in your video) are *very* flimsy and most of the edges fell off when handling them. On average the three outer batts on each side of the bundles never expanded to more than 2.5"! A night and day contrast with the characteristics of the R15 and R30 batts! Not sure if I got a bad batch (ordered them from Lowes), but since this is my first time working with your Safe and Sound insulation and now comparing my batts to what's in your video... it doesn't look the same!! Thoughts?
Hello DPC Films, We’re sorry to hear that you had that experience. The problem may have been that the product was stored outside or shelved for long periods in compression bags. SAFE’n’SOUND will generally have similar consistencies to ROXUL COMFORTBATT. Thank you for sharing this information with us, we appreciate your feedback. ROXUL
We used Roxul on our basement ceiling and sealed it in with a layer of plywood. It did next to nothing. The only truly effective way to keep noise out is to build a room within a room.
That’s what the resilient channel does. He didn’t go in depth on it, but it’s stops vibration transfer. The plywood is still a solid material, and the sound goes right through it. The channel has holes in it to stop sound waves.
Benjamin Ford this isn’t cheap by any means. Home Depot sells this stuff by the pallet which covers 700 sq ft ($650). I have a 2200 sq ft basement which means I’d need three pallets plus two individual packages. For that amount I might as well get closed cell foam sprayed
HI Roxul, We're finishing our basement and soundproofing the ceiling. We've already installed two layers of Safe n' Sound, and resilient channels. Some information says you should leave a gap between the ceiling drywall and the walls or risk "short circuiting" the soundproofing. This gap should be filled in with acoustic caulking, but how do you finish off the caulking? Do you just use regular drywall mud? Thanks,
This is precisely what I would need, to sound-proof my ceiling so to enjoy my Home Theater in all relax. I've already put some insulating panels which helped but apparently sound still gets through as the person living above me complains about the noise from time to time. How is this material rated? How many dBs per inch of thickness will it absorb? Thanks :)
Very informative video. Pls suppose the contractor has seemingly completed a ceiling soundproofing for a basement, how can one test that the job was properly insulated. E.g. that the Cotton Batts were adequately installed all over the ceiling's surface area?
Hello DimebagHK, ROXUL SAFE’n’SOUND is one component in a system of materials that work together in attenuating sound transmission. Although you may not be concerned about structure-borne sound originating from the floor above, a highly effective solution would be to install two layers of SAFE’n’SOUND, resilient channel (or acoustical clips) and 5/8” drywall. We hope this helps- ROXUL
Safe N Sound is still thermal insulation. It's the same product as the SmartBatt insulation, just slightly thinner with an R-Value of 11, if my memory serves me correctly after emailing Roxul.
this looks great. wish i could do it to the apartment im living in to stop the upstairs neighbors noise. and how stop the loud popping/cracking sounds of old apt creaking when they walk? it is hardwood floors. 50 yr old bldg. california.
Unless by your question you were implying that you would double the entire process and have in total, the foam, the drywall, more foam and an additional layer of yet more drywall underneath that, then absolutely yes you would cut down on sound a lot but in terms of a project that would be a serious undertaking to hold everything in place.
Im doing the same thing in our basement with the same stuff Safe and sound. I have a drop ceiling already installed but, am i gonna need the resilient bar with a drop ceiling?
Thank you. This was a really good video. I am moving my upstairs laundry room into an open space above my living room/entry. I need the drywall to line up/be level with the existing downstairs ceiling. It looks like those vibration channels that you put up on the joists add a bit of thickness which I will need to account for. How thick are those? Thank you.
I wish I had encountered your video before I finished my basement & sound proofed it. Are there any alternatives without pulling the drywall out now that its all done?
I notice some install 2x4 over the joist - what is the perpouse of that method - would be okay if I skip that part - and do your method of installation
Why wouldn't a 1x2 pine work as well as metal strips? Metal is a better conductor of sound than wood, correct? A rubber grommet between the joist and 1x2 would also help I'd think.
You skipped a crucial step. The sheetrock must NOT, not EVER touch any stud or joist wood. That includes the edges and the vertical studs. Leave a 1/4” gap at the edges and fill with caulk. If the sheetrock touches wood, even on the edges, it defeats the channel strip effectiveness. The actor failed to do that here. Keep the edges clear of wood, then filled with caulk, then float and tape as normal. Other than that one complaint about the video, I have to say that this system works! I have three basement units in my building, and I never ever have complaints about sound. Hardwood floors above, dogs, kids, loud music-no problem. In fact, you could scream at the top of your lungs, and nobody would hear you. Not sure that’s such a good thing, but... This works. It is also cost effective to do retroactively, if you find yourself trapped in a unit with bad sound issues from above. If you like your apartment and have a good deal on rent, redoing Sheetrock, insulation, etc yourself can be a good solution if you’d like to stay a few years.
Wish I could tell you; I've only recently finished all the framing for the jam room- all inner wall frames are decoupled, double walled for the inside walls. Doing all the work myself, so it's taking me longer than I'd like. Supposed to be putting in all the electrical next week on days off. Did you drywall right to the floor joists? This is why I'm decoupling all inner layers, to try prevent impact and air impact bursts (drums) from transferring through.
Hello Christine, ROXUL SAFE’n’SOUND can be installed above a suspended ceiling. This type of assembly has not been tested for sound attenuation, however you are likely to significantly improve the acoustical performance of your ceiling system with the inclusion of SAFE’n’SOUND batts that are installed tightly abutting each other. Thank you- ROXUL
Hello, i am not sure if this question was already asked.. i read throught the first 2o comments but could not find the answer. How much of the noise is beeing eliminated in %..pretty sure not a 100%...but if it does reduce the noise by at least 60% i will get this done asap :) thank you :)
Interesting. However, I've been watching a lot of these type videos and few show how laterally effective the treatment was. Where is the video of the final install with a dB meter in an adjacent room, a noise source like a home theater kicking out sound or even an average generator? There are many approaches to sound abatement for different budgets and few examples of what you might achieve. I can tell you staggering two layers of sheet rock is worthless. This looks better but the bar is low.
Heat vents are the worst. I sprayed liquid tar in them and stuck thin layer glass insulation. The liquid tar is used in car body rust proofing. Then i wraped the 3inch tar roll on outside. I only did the main areas by vents then i bought the flex insulated 6" vents. Commercial building buy pre made glass insulated square vents.
Thank you for the great information. I will install radiant water hoses between the joists and to make a good seal when i install the drywall ceiling. It seems to me that since you are not going directly to the floor joists, it may be necessary to seal ends to so the heat does not escape? does that make sense? is that true?
im going through hell at the minute we are not allowed dogs but upstairs have a dog they get up at 5.30am every day and stomp around i get on with them but the floors are so fine is nothing i can do i love my studio flat as we call it in the uk. but im starting to think about moving to a house and save up. can not waiting for peace and relaxing weekends without people walking around all day
I see the the safe and sound is installed at the "bottom" of the joist. Question one.. is there a benefit to installing it this way versus pushing it up right to the subfloor above. question 2 .. if i double up 2 batts to fill entire cavity with it make a big difference for sound travel? or is one batt enough?
Great video, what about using Ceiling tiles, any R Value in it or sound proofing, I need to sound proof my voice over room and I have a pallet Of Ceiling tiles that are slightly damaged, I wonder if I could use that for insulation or Sound proofing
Hello jjs777fzr, Spray foam insulation products do not perform very well in terms of acoustic isolation because they are rigid and consequently, the vibrational energy of sound transfer is less effectively transformed into thermal energy. ROXUL products are much more dense than other fibrous batt insulation products and are the ideal material for acoustic applications. Best regards - ROXUL
Hi Rockwool. I know this video is 8 years old but I'm just seeing it now. Will your foam isolate sound even if I don't add a layer of drywall? I have to leave my basement ceiling exposed due to light fixtures, pipes, etc. that I don't want to hide behind drywall.
This video is great - thank you. Would you ever put other materials in as well to increase soundproofing? Such as another layer of Roxul or QuietRock? I live in the condo from hell that has nothing between the shared walls and ceilings/floors and we are researching options. I want to know what is the Cadillac option for soundproofing.
Hey. Second comment. Are you still out there? First comment is below. In this one I'd like to ask if you could please link to the type of resilient channel that you use in the video. I think the kind I got at a big hardware chain might not be correct.
How much noise reduction can I expect if I just do the insulation and not the dry wall. Unfortunately the drywall step is it possible in my application.
I'm planning to have a drum room. My house is just 1 level so no impact noise for me. Can I just skip on the resilient channels? Just Rockwool + Joist and then the drywall under it?
I used it in my basement, in the walls it's easy to install but in the ceiling its a nightmare. You cant bend it and going around ( cutting) plumbing, ducting, pex water lines, wires, which are all inbetween my floor joists, is hell. I would rather fight with Thor
7 років тому
Ugh, I'm about to try doing that, myself. Not looking forward to it. And the joists are every 12" here which is going to add a lot more fun to the process. :-/
Take the vent down. Insulate upper. Then spray inside the vent as far as possible with spray tar(auto rust proofing). Then put in a thin glass layer. Commercial building use pre made insulated trunk vents and insulated flex vents.
Great video. When I lived in the states this would have been great, but now living in Korea most housing being limited to high rises I am wondering if you have any additional tips for me as I will be buying something in a high rise structure. We are looking at old and new. Remodeling of an old unit or finishing of a new one are options and I was curious if there is anything else I should be looking for with this style of construction. Thanks in advance.
Hi James, since your project may require us to know a few more details, would you be able to please call our technical services team? They would be happy to assist you in finding a solution. Their number is 1-877-823-9790. -Regards, ROXUL
I would buy a kit from froth pak or touch n'seal closed cell foam - I'm betting it is the absolute best sound reduction out there for this type of application. Or the blow in cellulose. But I haven't used this product here so maybe its good too.
I was wondering how that worked? I put one layer of roxul tight against the floor, worked a little not great. But when I put another layer with a gap between it caused huge vibrations from the drums, so I took out the bottom layer. Now I am thinking of stapling audiomute rolls to the ceiling and all the walls, but its about $1000. What do you think? my son is a pro drummer
2 questions. 1- would I use the same insulation for the walls between rooms? 2- if you’re installing a vent fan in the ceiling will the resilient channels cause the fan to not mount flush to the ceiling drywall?
Really important detail, that vibrational isolation of the final finish panels from the joist. Those metallic-looking strips you put in place: what are they called? Resilient something, can't catch the word!
I have a old house with radiant heating and as a result my basement ceiling is crisscrossed with its associated piping. Is this product compatible with a radiant heating system or will I have to use some other type of insulation in the areas where I have piping?
This is nice Thank you, know I no carpet & padding will not work! It is all airborn. I can hear everything.. Slamming of doors knocked my family heirloom off my wall & broke. Any other suggestions that I can do in my apt? I live on top floor. Thank You! I do not believe there is any type of installation at all in between floor.
Nice Video. Would you recommend sound Isolation clips? I am primarily interested in blocking the thumping noise from walking across the floors above. I guess the question is, are the isolation clips in combination with hat channel be worth the greater expense and trouble over this system?
Hello dnsmithnc, Sound isolation clips are effective at reducing impact sound transmission through floor assemblies. Resilient channels are also used, but are less effective than isolation clips. Please see wilrep.com for more product information. Best of luck- ROXUL
How do you address adding channels around the pot lights? the pot lights are set in as if you were attaching drywall directly to the joists. However, your adding an extra 1/2" inch with the metal channels. At the same position you are not going to get a good seal between the perimeter of the light and the drywall.
Do you only need simple drywall to stop all airborne noise using the Safe/Sound? Or would you be better off using noise-reducing drywall too in addition to the other steps?
Hello John, Typically, a high-density 5/8" typex gypsum board provides good performance in an acoustic system. For more information about your specific project, please call our Technical Innovation Center at: 1-800-265-6878 Regards, ROXUL
How do I install the batts when my joists are not exactly 16". I'm installing this between basement joists (finishing the basement) and my builder made them around 19".There are not batts that fit this dimension so I purchased 16" batts and plan on having the resilient channel keep them from falling out. If I don't have them fit snuggly between the joists, does that completely nullify the effectiveness of the insulation?
After months of sleepless nights in our DC condo we used your product for our bedroom ceiling. We went with all possible improvements. The main issue were cracking subfloors that would wake us up in the middle of the night with our neighbor’s steps. He had a carpet and a mat underneath but it was his weight that made the poorly attached subfloor crack as crazy. In addition to using your product, we added glue in the subfloor / joist intersection, double drywall AND truly resilient channels mounted on infependent clips, not the channels screwed to the joist like in this video. Sleeping like babies ever since.
Thank you for this comment!!
We are currently losing our minds with the upstairs neighbors. My apartment vibrates and shakes whenever they stomp around. BOOM BOOM BOOM BOOM. I really hope this can at least help somewhat. We are desperate.
I’m in the same boat. We purchased our condo not long ago, and we only have one gripe. Our upstairs neighbors Is let’s just say a bit rotund, and we will wake up in the middle of the night to what sounds like he’s going to crash through our roof. I wonder what this costs? Say for a 9x9?
I need you to make a video of this or more detail of how u do it! I live downstairs and the squeaks are the worst for me and my husband I’m due in 3 months and I want some type of rest before I loose it all :(
Spinel,
How much did it cost if yoy dont mind me asking? My abive neighbor is on the heavy side and i can here her steps, bed squeaking, and dog bark. I been considering getting this installed.
I used this same method when I finished my basement a few months ago and it’s absolutely remarkable..
It’s so nice not hearing my wife have sex upstairs while I’m reading or browsing the Internet.
Marak Lia lol🤣
hahahahahah
lol
Marak Lia
And I was worried the headboard was to loud. Roxul is great stuff
You didn’t choose the swinging life. The swinging life chose you.
Thank you for this video! Short and sweet. I was running short on time before my ceiling soundproofing contractor stopped by to provide a quote. I watched this video, took notes, and sounded a bit more like I knew what I was talking about. Very straightforward video and (thankfully!) under 5 minutes long.
@Hannah - Not what I need, but some might find this information useful.
we used your product in the ceiling and under the house during renovations, and we are very impressed. Rarely run the AC, and no longer hear the squirrels running on the roof. I refuse to go back to fiberglass insulation. Even our handyman is switching to Roxul. My only complaint is that I have to special order it from Lowes or Home Depot, and they don't have access to all your products. Wish they would carry it in store. Even some of the employees are not familiar with what Roxul is, said they never used it.
Hello David,
To install the resilient channel to the studs, we recommend using 5/8” coarse-thread screws. To install the drywall to the resilient channel, consider 2 things:
1) Install screws such that they are placed between the studs and not into them. If the screws that penetrate the drywall are driven into the studs themselves, the value of the resilient channel is lost.
2) Use fine-thread drywall screws designed for light gauge steel; ¾” screws will work nicely.
Thank you - ROXUL
That's good marketing!
Great video but you forgot to mention one important point. Noise transmission through the ductwork. You can insulate till the cows come home but if you don't address this issue you may be disappointed with your effort. Just think of all those old movies where the sea captain pulls the plug out of a pipe and communicates through it to the engine room...same principal. You can cure this issue by acoustically lining the ductwork. This is common practice in high end sound studios.
This is exactly what I have been looking for to defeat a blaring tv and yelling from the floor above me! I will be buying this over the next week! Thank you!
Glad to hear Jeremy! Cheers, ROXUL
you don't see a lot of resilient channel used, people don't know about it. I also like how you kept the insulation off the subfloor to create a space, but you didn't make a point of saying thats how you should do it. the spaces between the materials is really what captures the most of the sound.
Matthew Van Helden Matthew Van Helden I had no idea about the space in between
I installed R-13 Foam against neighboring wall then because I still heard them, I put in another R-13 of the fiberglass pink stuff for R-26 because I didn’t know about Roxul at the time and it was less sound but I can hear their kid 🧒🏻 running around, wish I had known about the SPACE in between Roxul and the Wood to TRAP the sound! Grrrrrr!
Matthew Van Helden subfloor meaning the ceiling? So there should be space from the insulation and ceiling as well as the insulation and drywall? Am I understanding that correctly? Thanks
Chud Yee SO, your ceiling, their floor. Now that we have that clear. Lets talk in layers. The bottom of their floor is one layer. Leave an air space layer, under their floor, then add the Roxsul layer, when you add the metal channel, you will be creating a space layer between the Roxsul and the channel. Then you add the drywall. You end up having a space layer before the insulation, then after the insulation, then comes the drywall. So you have 2chances for the sound to get trapped ir disspate by the time it reaches the drywall, which is YOUR ceiling.
Sorry to bother you. I am studying to do it in my ceiling. Between the wood joist and the metal channel, should have a gap air or should be screwed? Bcz in the video he says that the metal channel should work independlty but looks all attached. Thanks
I have nothing but great things to say about Roxul and I am glad that it is being produced in America. I used to have to special order this stuff from Canada when we first got into business.
Here is a tip, Do not install the resilient channel right at the border of your walls (in the video it is done this way and it is not ideal and could short out the system) There needs to be a space there so you do not couple your wall/ceiling assembly. That way any transmission by the ceiling will not transfer as much to the walls (which could amplify the problem)
Thanks for that tip. I'm going to be working on the channel on clips and I'm assuming the same logic should apply
Bluelemonzz Yes, Good luck on your project. The clips perform even better than just channel itself if done right. Make sure you use the Roxul as it does absorb the lower frequencies a bit better
This is exactly what I needed this is rad, thank you! My rooms in my basement since my sister still lives in my house, she’s 20 and I’m 16. We out grew our shared room years ago and I never minded the basement except for one thing, my parents smoke next to my door and they both have smokers cough, and the old house’s floor boards are so loud sometimes I can’t think! This is PERFECT
Can anyone share their experience before and after doing this? How much did sound attenuate/reduce for you, and did you do anything differently?
@Neil Floris - Thank you for the recommendation on the ISOMax clips!!! I found a local rep and just ordered to use on the ceiling of my office. The rep also suggested overlapping 2 layers of 5/8" sheetrock. Just an FYI for anyone that's serious about this.
Generally a good video but a little light on the details. How do you put the Safe-N-Sound around the cross-bracing? Cut it to fit? Compress? Around Pot lights? Other impediments? If you want to use the vibration dampening channels what would you do about pot light fixtures that are already set up for 1/2 inch drywall? Does Safe-N-Sound have insulation value? I imagine it does. What is the R value? I know it's not made for insulation specifically but since it's made out of the same material as the insulation it must insulate to some degree. Do the pot lights have to be IC rated when using Safe-N-Sound? BTW, I love your product. I've re-insulated my whole home with your Rockwool goodness. Wouldn't use anything else.
You crack me up! Roxul even if it were 12 feet thick wouldn't soundproof more than about 6 Db, the only way to actually sound proof is to use limp high mass materials like lead which we don't use any more so lots of drywall and stagger the sheets each layer and glue all but the first one on. All that will do is help out with the sound bouncing around between the two layers keeping reverb at bay but if I were playing bass at a moderate 75 Db it would travel right through that wool like it wasn't there. The resilient channels are a great item as long as you don't screw through the ceiling drywall into the joists. I have had to correct rooms where someone used Roxul for "soundproofing" at least 4 times and the disappointment on the persons face was pretty evident when they tested it and the baby upstairs woke up within a few seconds. If you plan to sound proof, look up the STC of these materials first and save yourself a lot of grief. But I bet he can get you a great deal on the Brooklyn Bridge.
Now if you want real advice from someone who builds A list studios for a living and does not want to sell you anything, go here. It is all based on real science and no sales. He even knows more than me! I studied on my own for about 5 years, this guy went to school and has built some very very nice studios that have frequency and reverb time charts and his website has a room mode analyzer too prevent standing waves so you don't have to dived twice the length into sound in feet per seconds and then make a chart with every multiple of your answer up to 400Hz etc for free. You will love this man for the time and money he will save you. And for the free education he spreads around. The guy here is selling Roxul so it's magic stuff that defies physics apparently.
ua-cam.com/channels/mAjEZ1xMg-0KA6AxYJm-Pg.html
Drampa Dreg: you're the post i was looking for after watching this video - thanks for setting him straight and thanks for the link!
This isn't bad, but it isn't the best approach.
I do like Roxul Safe & Sound. Though many home theater/sound mitigation sites will say that you will get essentially the same affect with plain fiberglass, I've experienced the audible difference of having bats, blow-in fiberglass and two layers of Roxul side by side by side in a 2x6 wall facing a major freeway. Roxul did have an noticeable impact as I couldn't hear anything through the Roxul but I could still hear some traffic noise through the two fiberglass installation types. (justifying the price difference vs performance is subjective decision).
However, to the overall approach shown here, acoustic caulk sealing and insulation is critical, and resilient channel is better than going straight to studs, but resilient channel and a layer of drywall does not provide nearly the same sound mitigation as using sound isolation clips with hat channel and at least two layers of 5/8th with a dampening product (like Green Glue or Quiet Glue Pro).
Not addressing all the plain sheetmetal air ducts and possibly the side walls (look up 'sound flanking') could also minimize the impact of the effort.
Csab the clips are expensive but remember you only get one shot at soundproofing. If you put up the ceiling and you're not happy with the result it's not an easy fix
you get what you pay for. Go with clips and double drywall for maximum sound attenuation. You only do it once!
Soundproofing
Curtis B how about using some QuietRock drywall or Soundbreak® XP® drywall? Both are comparable to 8 layers of Sheetrock
What you have installed is for airborne sound only. Impact isolation is done through the use of a 5 - 6mm resilient layer on the floor above. If you cant treat the floor above you need a independent ceiling at least 150mm void full filled with dense mineral fibre insulation and 2 layers of 15mm sound board. We have tested enough of these floors to know. However this still does not prevent structural transmission.
Seal holes with acoustic sealant. Block air bound noise with Roxul insulation. Resilient channel to block out vibration-noise.
You could use O rings or rubber washers between the screws and the joists /resilient channels.
If the goal is to reduce sound wave transmission, you have to insulate them from each others with a non resonating material.
If I have 2 x 10 joints, can I put fiberglass insulation and then the safe and sound to get some r value in the ceiling?
Great video, thank you for posting this. How much ceiling height is sacrificed by the resilient channel? And do you recommend sound isolation clips also?
Three questions: 1.a. Can or should we be able to put insulation? 1.b. If yes, should it go above or below the Rockwool? 2. Does the Resilient Channel take the place of strapping?
Like this. Might solve the headaches of tenants calling me at work to report noise all the time.
Great video. I was thinking of doing this for my am recording studio. Can you please address how you would do the electrical wiring for lights etc with resilient channels and drywalls? As in how do you install a light fixture without sound traveling through? Do you just make holes in the actual drywall?
Roxul is a wonderful product, I took a small piece of it home from Lowes and I was able to melt a penny in the palm of my hand using only the little piece of Roxul as protection. I've put a torch to it and it doesn't burn, it will scorch and dissipate but trying the same thing with closed cell foam or fiber glass will get you hurt. So for my money, knowing that I've not only got great sound dampening but that I've also protected each and every room in my house with the equivalent of a fire resistant wall is great peace of mind. Just think the fumes from burning Spray foam in a house fire will kill you before the flames ever get to you, so no thanks and fiber glass has been shown to be almost as bad for your health as asbestos the only reason why it's not illegal is because it's cheap and grandfathered in and if installed wrong it loses most all effectiveness.
Hello SFP,
SAFE’n’SOUND is optimized for sound attenuation; the thickness of the batts are carefully designed. The 3” batt leaves a ½” space in the wall when built with 2x4s; this space helps to minimize sound transfer through the wall.
If you have the space, you may use an additional layer of SAFE’n’SOUND. Elements such as resilient channel (or acoustic clips), thicker and even doubled up layers of drywall are highly beneficial for overall sound attenuation.
Best of luck- ROXUL
I recently installed Roxul's "Safe and Sound" (24" OC) in my office ceiling, Roxul's R15 (16" OC) in the walls, and Roxul's R30 in the floor. The R15 & R30 batts are super easy to fit and a dream to work with, but..... I noticed that my "Safe and Sounds" batts (when compared to what you show in your video) are *very* flimsy and most of the edges fell off when handling them. On average the three outer batts on each side of the bundles never expanded to more than 2.5"! A night and day contrast with the characteristics of the R15 and R30 batts!
Not sure if I got a bad batch (ordered them from Lowes), but since this is my first time working with your Safe and Sound insulation and now comparing my batts to what's in your video... it doesn't look the same!! Thoughts?
Hello DPC Films,
We’re sorry to hear that you had that experience. The problem may have been that the product was stored outside or shelved for long periods in compression bags. SAFE’n’SOUND will generally have similar consistencies to ROXUL COMFORTBATT.
Thank you for sharing this information with us, we appreciate your feedback.
ROXUL
We used Roxul on our basement ceiling and sealed it in with a layer of plywood. It did next to nothing. The only truly effective way to keep noise out is to build a room within a room.
Should've used 1/2 or 5/8 drywall on your ceiling and you would've definitely heard a difference in the noise cancellation
That’s what the resilient channel does. He didn’t go in depth on it, but it’s stops vibration transfer. The plywood is still a solid material, and the sound goes right through it. The channel has holes in it to stop sound waves.
This is incredibly simple and cheap by the looks of it, I'm surprised this is not the standard when building.
Benjamin Ford this isn’t cheap by any means. Home Depot sells this stuff by the pallet which covers 700 sq ft ($650). I have a 2200 sq ft basement which means I’d need three pallets plus two individual packages. For that amount I might as well get closed cell foam sprayed
Ain't as simple as you think it is
HI Roxul,
We're finishing our basement and soundproofing the ceiling. We've already installed two layers of Safe n' Sound, and resilient channels. Some information says you should leave a gap between the ceiling drywall and the walls or risk "short circuiting" the soundproofing. This gap should be filled in with acoustic caulking, but how do you finish off the caulking? Do you just use regular drywall mud? Thanks,
This is a good basic solution. I would also put a roll of MLV under the drywall
This is precisely what I would need, to sound-proof my ceiling so to enjoy my Home Theater in all relax. I've already put some insulating panels which helped but apparently sound still gets through as the person living above me complains about the noise from time to time. How is this material rated? How many dBs per inch of thickness will it absorb? Thanks :)
Very informative video. Pls suppose the contractor has seemingly completed a ceiling soundproofing for a basement, how can one test that the job was properly insulated. E.g. that the Cotton Batts were adequately installed all over the ceiling's surface area?
Hello DimebagHK,
ROXUL SAFE’n’SOUND is one component in a system of materials that work together in attenuating sound transmission. Although you may not be concerned about structure-borne sound originating from the floor above, a highly effective solution would be to install two layers of SAFE’n’SOUND, resilient channel (or acoustical clips) and 5/8” drywall.
We hope this helps- ROXUL
How much of a difference is there in sound if I went with 1/2inch drywall instead?
What about if I have a drop ceiling? Would this still have a similar effect?
This guy used to be a Much Music VJ! Cool!
for floor joist, put two layers of rock wool: one pinned against the sub floor, and the second just above the ceiling drywall.
Thanks, although I would have liked to see how you put up a full sheet of drywall
D Casserly I totally agree! What those metal brackets are called, where to get them and the thickness and weight of drywall that it can hold.
Probably had the guy holding the camera help him.
@@nrfa6229 I'm hoping they can hold 2 layers of 5/8...
Safe N Sound is still thermal insulation. It's the same product as the SmartBatt insulation, just slightly thinner with an R-Value of 11, if my memory serves me correctly after emailing Roxul.
How much of a gap do you need to leave between insulation and subfloor on a ceiling ? My John’s mansville product says make it tight
this looks great. wish i could do it to the apartment im living in to stop the upstairs neighbors noise. and how stop the loud popping/cracking sounds of old apt creaking when they walk? it is hardwood floors. 50 yr old bldg. california.
dont get me wrong , working with this stuff is a dream , no itch , wont rot
doesnt burn too
No itch ? I itch like mad when I use this stuff
I used to to make sound panels, its itchy alright, lol.
Thank you. I'm looking to soundproof the basement in my ceiling this winter.
Surge Álvez do you mean cling in your basement?
Unless by your question you were implying that you would double the entire process and have in total, the foam, the drywall, more foam and an additional layer of yet more drywall underneath that, then absolutely yes you would cut down on sound a lot but in terms of a project that would be a serious undertaking to hold everything in place.
I want access to electric and plumbing. Would a drop ceiling work the same way as resilient channel and drywall
Im doing the same thing in our basement with the same stuff Safe and sound. I have a drop ceiling already installed but, am i gonna need the resilient bar with a drop ceiling?
Thank you for your videos. Are we installing the resilient channels every 16" apart??
NinaNinaBonita yes
excellent I want to do that but I'll have to tear down the ceiling
Thank you. This was a really good video. I am moving my upstairs laundry room into an open space above my living room/entry. I need the drywall to line up/be level with the existing downstairs ceiling. It looks like those vibration channels that you put up on the joists add a bit of thickness which I will need to account for. How thick are those?
Thank you.
How effective is something like this against impact noise? How much of this do you think it would block? 70%?
Very concise! Thank you. Great info and presentation.
I wish I had encountered your video before I finished my basement & sound proofed it. Are there any alternatives without pulling the drywall out now that its all done?
I notice some install 2x4 over the joist - what is the perpouse of that method - would be okay if I skip that part - and do your method of installation
Why wouldn't a 1x2 pine work as well as metal strips? Metal is a better conductor of sound than wood, correct? A rubber grommet between the joist and 1x2 would also help I'd think.
Illustration is very informative and practical
You skipped a crucial step. The sheetrock must NOT, not EVER touch any stud or joist wood. That includes the edges and the vertical studs. Leave a 1/4” gap at the edges and fill with caulk. If the sheetrock touches wood, even on the edges, it defeats the channel strip effectiveness. The actor failed to do that here. Keep the edges clear of wood, then filled with caulk, then float and tape as normal.
Other than that one complaint about the video, I have to say that this system works! I have three basement units in my building, and I never ever have complaints about sound. Hardwood floors above, dogs, kids, loud music-no problem. In fact, you could scream at the top of your lungs, and nobody would hear you. Not sure that’s such a good thing, but...
This works. It is also cost effective to do retroactively, if you find yourself trapped in a unit with bad sound issues from above. If you like your apartment and have a good deal on rent, redoing Sheetrock, insulation, etc yourself can be a good solution if you’d like to stay a few years.
I love this product as well as the other Rockwool (formerly Roxul) products.
Wish I could tell you; I've only recently finished all the framing for the jam room- all inner wall frames are decoupled, double walled for the inside walls. Doing all the work myself, so it's taking me longer than I'd like. Supposed to be putting in all the electrical next week on days off.
Did you drywall right to the floor joists? This is why I'm decoupling all inner layers, to try prevent impact and air impact bursts (drums) from transferring through.
Hello Christine,
ROXUL SAFE’n’SOUND can be installed above a suspended ceiling. This type of assembly has not been tested for sound attenuation, however you are likely to significantly improve the acoustical performance of your ceiling system with the inclusion of SAFE’n’SOUND batts that are installed tightly abutting each other.
Thank you- ROXUL
Hello, i am not sure if this question was already asked.. i read throught the first 2o comments but could not find the answer. How much of the noise is beeing eliminated in %..pretty sure not a 100%...but if it does reduce the noise by at least 60% i will get this done asap :) thank you :)
Interesting. However, I've been watching a lot of these type videos and few show how laterally effective the treatment was. Where is the video of the final install with a dB meter in an adjacent room, a noise source like a home theater kicking out sound or even an average generator? There are many approaches to sound abatement for different budgets and few examples of what you might achieve. I can tell you staggering two layers of sheet rock is worthless. This looks better but the bar is low.
Exactly really only reason I was watching to know if it’s worth it or not
Heat vents are the worst. I sprayed liquid tar in them and stuck thin layer glass insulation. The liquid tar is used in car body rust proofing. Then i wraped the 3inch tar roll on outside.
I only did the main areas by vents then i bought the flex insulated 6" vents. Commercial building buy pre made glass insulated square vents.
Thank you for the great information. I will install radiant water hoses between the joists and to make a good seal when i install the drywall ceiling. It seems to me that since you are not going directly to the floor joists, it may be necessary to seal ends to so the heat does not escape? does that make sense? is that true?
That's cool with me, what has been seen can not be unseen.
im going through hell at the minute we are not allowed dogs but upstairs have a dog they get up at 5.30am every day and stomp around i get on with them but the floors are so fine is nothing i can do i love my studio flat as we call it in the uk. but im starting to think about moving to a house and save up. can not waiting for peace and relaxing weekends without people walking around all day
I see the the safe and sound is installed at the "bottom" of the joist. Question one.. is there a benefit to installing it this way versus pushing it up right to the subfloor above. question 2 .. if i double up 2 batts to fill entire cavity with it make a big difference for sound travel? or is one batt enough?
Great products from rockwool , looking for some greater R-value batts for 2x6 cathedral ceilings. Maybe R40 dense packed batts :-)
excellent working of insulation installation
Wouldn't it be better to completely fill the joist bays with Roxul?
Question: he left a big gap for air abow the rockwhool, wouldnt that be better with a second layer of insulation for more sound reduction?
Great video, what about using Ceiling tiles, any R Value in it or sound proofing, I need to sound proof my voice over room and I have a pallet Of Ceiling tiles that are slightly damaged, I wonder if I could use that for insulation or Sound proofing
Hello jjs777fzr,
Spray foam insulation products do not perform very well in terms of acoustic isolation because they are rigid and consequently, the vibrational energy of sound transfer is less effectively transformed into thermal energy. ROXUL products are much more dense than other fibrous batt insulation products and are the ideal material for acoustic applications.
Best regards - ROXUL
Hi Rockwool. I know this video is 8 years old but I'm just seeing it now. Will your foam isolate sound even if I don't add a layer of drywall? I have to leave my basement ceiling exposed due to light fixtures, pipes, etc. that I don't want to hide behind drywall.
@@antoniogiamberardino602 from my understanding you can't leave spray foam exposed.
Thanks for shairing. well done.
This video is great - thank you. Would you ever put other materials in as well to increase soundproofing? Such as another layer of Roxul or QuietRock? I live in the condo from hell that has nothing between the shared walls and ceilings/floors and we are researching options. I want to know what is the Cadillac option for soundproofing.
Does it matter if you push the insulation right against the subfloor vs how you show it being level with bottom of joist? Any difference?
did u leave a air gap? plus, did u use acoustic sealant around the perimeter? sound can still flank down through walls
Hey. Second comment. Are you still out there? First comment is below. In this one I'd like to ask if you could please link to the type of resilient channel that you use in the video. I think the kind I got at a big hardware chain might not be correct.
What's the difference with fiberbath ? What about filling all the cavity with that product..
You did a great job on this Video. Thank you for the information.
How much noise reduction can I expect if I just do the insulation and not the dry wall. Unfortunately the drywall step is it possible in my application.
I'm planning to have a drum room. My house is just 1 level so no impact noise for me. Can I just skip on the resilient channels? Just Rockwool + Joist and then the drywall under it?
I used it in my basement, in the walls it's easy to install but in the ceiling its a nightmare. You cant bend it and going around ( cutting) plumbing, ducting, pex water lines, wires, which are all inbetween my floor joists, is hell. I would rather fight with Thor
Ugh, I'm about to try doing that, myself. Not looking forward to it. And the joists are every 12" here which is going to add a lot more fun to the process. :-/
Its much easier than fluffy fiberglass that sags and falls. THere is no better product
weaving insulation can reduce
Travis B I am here Travis, let’s fight! -Thor
Travis B I agree with you. It was hell getting it around some air ducts pex tubing in my basement ceiling.
So does this help the squeaking upstairs as well?
I have a return air duct that uses the entire space between two adjacent joists. What are my options to address that area?
Take the vent down. Insulate upper. Then spray inside the vent as far as possible with spray tar(auto rust proofing). Then put in a thin glass layer. Commercial building use pre made insulated trunk vents and insulated flex vents.
Move
Can I use Roxul wall insulation to wrap around the flue vent of the hot water tank? Would it be considered fire hazard?
Would doubling the foam in between the joist add more sound reduction?
Great video. When I lived in the states this would have been great, but now living in Korea most housing being limited to high rises I am wondering if you have any additional tips for me as I will be buying something in a high rise structure. We are looking at old and new. Remodeling of an old unit or finishing of a new one are options and I was curious if there is anything else I should be looking for with this style of construction. Thanks in advance.
Hi James, since your project may require us to know a few more details, would you be able to please call our technical services team? They would be happy to assist you in finding a solution. Their number is 1-877-823-9790. -Regards, ROXUL
Our pleasure!
I would buy a kit from froth pak or touch n'seal closed cell foam - I'm betting it is the absolute best sound reduction out there for this type of application. Or the blow in cellulose. But I haven't used this product here so maybe its good too.
In units of Decibels, what is the sound negation effect difference between the Roxul Safe and Sound Sound Deadening and Roxul Comfort Insulation?
I was wondering how that worked? I put one layer of roxul tight against the floor, worked a little not great. But when I put another layer with a gap between it caused huge vibrations from the drums, so I took out the bottom layer. Now I am thinking of stapling audiomute rolls to the ceiling and all the walls, but its about $1000. What do you think? my son is a pro drummer
2 questions.
1- would I use the same insulation for the walls between rooms?
2- if you’re installing a vent fan in the ceiling will the resilient channels cause the fan to not mount flush to the ceiling drywall?
Make a frame with same resilient channels to the dimensions needed for your fan so it will be stabilized
Really important detail, that vibrational isolation of the final finish panels from the joist. Those metallic-looking strips you put in place: what are they called? Resilient something, can't catch the word!
Hello Howard, they are called "Resilient Channels".
Regards, ROXUL
I have a old house with radiant heating and as a result my basement ceiling is crisscrossed with its associated piping. Is this product compatible with a radiant heating system or will I have to use some other type of insulation in the areas where I have piping?
This is nice Thank you, know I no carpet & padding will not work! It is all airborn. I can hear everything.. Slamming of doors knocked my family heirloom off my wall & broke. Any other suggestions that I can do in my apt? I live on top floor. Thank You! I do not believe there is any type of installation at all in between floor.
Move
Nice Video. Would you recommend sound Isolation clips? I am primarily interested in blocking the thumping noise from walking across the floors above. I guess the question is, are the isolation clips in combination with hat channel be worth the greater expense and trouble over this system?
Hello dnsmithnc,
Sound isolation clips are effective at reducing impact sound transmission through floor assemblies. Resilient channels are also used, but are less effective than isolation clips. Please see wilrep.com for more product information.
Best of luck- ROXUL
Avoid screwing drywall into channel directly under joist!
How do you mount a TV to the wall? Would that compromise the system or do you only do this to the ceiling?
How do you address adding channels around the pot lights? the pot lights are set in as if you were attaching drywall directly to the joists. However, your adding an extra 1/2" inch with the metal channels. At the same position you are not going to get a good seal between the perimeter of the light and the drywall.
Do you only need simple drywall to stop all airborne noise using the Safe/Sound? Or would you be better off using noise-reducing drywall too in addition to the other steps?
Hello John,
Typically, a high-density 5/8" typex gypsum board provides good performance in an acoustic system. For more information about your specific project, please call our Technical Innovation Center at: 1-800-265-6878
Regards, ROXUL
How do I install the batts when my joists are not exactly 16". I'm installing this between basement joists (finishing the basement) and my builder made them around 19".There are not batts that fit this dimension so I purchased 16" batts and plan on having the resilient channel keep them from falling out. If I don't have them fit snuggly between the joists, does that completely nullify the effectiveness of the insulation?