I've been building models since 1959, and was one of Testor's biggest supporters, but with what is happening with them after their purchase by Rustoleum, I've started changing to Tamiya. I have also started using my air brush more, but I'm lazy and don't like the cleanup after painting. I've watched your videos and articles for a long time, and have always felt comfortable with your advice and tutorials. I also do dioramas, two of which have been buildings of substantial size, one a car dealership and one a large garage/machine shop. Because of cost, I'd considered using Rustoleum on them, but instead, I went the extra expense and used Tamiya and Testors paints. This was the right choice, as using products made for the intended purpose results in intended quality. I ended up with some enjoyable dioramas instead of several hundred dollars worth of wasted plastic. Maybe I'm just old and set in my ways, but I'm a huge believer in using products designed for their intended purpose. Thanks you and keep posting these videos.
Im new to this hobby and have ruined my first two models with Rustolium 2x Clear. At first I thought I had done something wrong but turns out its just the paint. I used Tamiya primer and Tamiya paint then went over it with the Rustolium clear to make it shiny but it ate away the paint and even some of the primer and left the surface of the plastic with a grainy and bumby texture all over. Thank you for doing this video. Really helps new people like me not make more mistakes.
You must work for them. The results I get from regular spray paint are way better. And you can wet sand it, compound polish and wax them. Once the plastic rehardens it's as strong as a real auto finish
I’m watching this video for the second time. You are absolutely correct about the Rustoleum paint, and the same for the Krylon paint. I have had several models turn out great, but I have had a few go to crap. It’s just not worth the money you save with those paints, because you end up stripping the model and buying the correct paint. Now, I have had success all of the time with their primers. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Don great video thank you I fell in that rustoleum trap following a u tube person who will remain anonymous but you probably know whom I referred to I used many of his recommendations and they were great failures you are a godsend to modelers with your information I have purchased your latest videos and follow them always Thank you!!!!!
I bet I could name that channel as well and guy. He uses rustoleum probably because you can hide all of the uglyness and mess ups on camera he has to produce models very quickly so he does it cheap as possible as well.
@@MrPolicekarim I understand the title is meant to grab attention but I think saying "toxic cocktail" is a bit of an overstatement . Wouldn't be much more toxic than let's say tamiya on plastic. All commonly used model paints have a toxic element to them. I'm not totally discounting the video however because if a primer of the same brand as the paint is not used one may end up with a crappy paint job. I learned this from experience. Once I started using the flat black or gray primers (color depending in on what you are trying to achieve) the paint will go on smoothly and the "stretching" stopped happening. Another thing to keep in mind is the atmosphere in which you are spraying the paint, temp/humidity which greatly affects your finished product. Just my two cents. Everybody has their own opinions and what works for them. BTW I will give hpiguys props as well although my son and I cars may come out looking a little better ,we do enjoy his stuff and also understand he is doing promo work as well.
All I'll say about the paint topic is this; since I got away from hardware store paints & went with strictly Tamiya primer (fine, white), colors, and clears, my modeling enjoyment has GREATLY improved!
Thank You Sir I'm just getting back into scale model building for the first time in years. I have been doing a lot of reading and youtube video watching and thank god I came across your channel about Rustoleum paints. these days it all seems to be all about Tamiya, Tamiya, Tamiya. You just got to go with what works best in this day and age of model building. Testors just isn't the standard that it once was. Thank You so much from a new subscriber with big thumbs up!
If you make a mistake have Super Clean on hand. Its about $10 for a gallon. Pour some in a large enough container and let the model soak. Use a toothbrush to help remove the paint every hour or so. It may leave a little bit on the model but you will primer it anyway. Just did it last night.
Never had a problem with Rustoleum brush paint on metal furniture. I am a outdoor model railroader & have only used Krylon spray paint to paint freight cars. Never had a problem spraying Krylon on plastic styrene 1:20.3 scale model freight cars. They still hold up under all kinds of weather. In my HO club Krylon is used on large buildings, e.g. steel mills, coking plants, sky scrapers, etc... No problems on plastic. No paint smell (Krylon also makes a water based paint). Krylon also has a UV resistant clear coat, great for outdoor models.
Hey I've watched a lot of your videos. Learned a lot. Since August I've been building model cars. Out of 11 kits I only so far kept 3 which passed to be professional builds. I tried using model car paint and it wasn't balsy enough. I use regular spray paint, mainly rustoleum and I get the most durable incredible finish out of them. I bake it and wait a week or more until the plastic rehardens then freeze them so the plastic contracts and it works great. Then again I'm a weirdo. Thanks for your videos
Funny to hear mention of Jim here. He's a great guy. Thank you!!! Thank you!! for addressing this!!! I can't count how many times I have told modelers over the past 30+ years new and old not to use Krylon and Rustoleum to this very day!!! Now you've got UA-camr's with channels on here, "you know who you are", that solely use this crap and the beginners then take that as gospel in turn doing the same exact thing. Then they come onto the forums, Facebook, etc complaining and wondering why they have issues.
I have had zero issues with Rustoleum. Although I haven't planned on or needed to strip any paint. I'm currently doing a 1960 Chevy Apache and the Turquoise Rustoleum 2x is working quite well. Bought the paint mainly to match a stock color that was discontinued by Model Master. Anyways! Just throwing my 2 cents in; Haven't had any issues with Rustoleum and my Chevy is looking great. Cheers! 🤘🏻
Main right on point of this information for me is. Cost of paint vs cost of today's kits. This is not 1965 any longer, kits are not $1.50. Spend the extra for good paint! Yes I'm that old, buildings kits since early 60's when kids built the models and you showed finished builds to your dad, not dads showing kids like today.
I can second this. Just getting into modeling and of course went for cheap Rust-Oleum right off the bat! Talk about orange peel! I even warm the can up, thin coats etc. It's not made for plastic! Lol now I will say it works for me on interiors so far for a base coat but I will never put it on another body. No way! Love your videos! Very helpful. Going to get your DVDs soon.
Ahhh, I do miss watching these videos old man. I’m sorry to hear about the legends passing. I had no idea. I’ve had trouble keeping up with the hobby in recent years due to unexpected events. I still plan on jumping back on the train when I can work all this crap out and have free time again. I smell a rebirth of the UA-cam channel here soon. Keep an eye out. Glad to see you’re still at it. Oh yeah, ai may need to get a hold of that new dvd. Have a great one sir. -Salute-
I've got a 67 Gto model I'd love to get a set of Craiger wheels for . Do you have any videos on how to do a two-tone paint job or how to do ralley strips on a car ?
Re-coat time can be a problem as well as paint type interaction. Test paints and primers before committing. 2X seems to have a problem if no primer is used on model kits like it flash dries with a static line running through somewhere but some spots that look ok. Someone mentioned that it will cover too heavy and obscure details, yes there is that.
I always wondered why HPI guys workshop uses floor polish rather than 2k clear for his finishes. he uses rustoleum exclusively for his models. on my monitor they actually look pretty good if your not planning on entering a contest. Thanks for your excellent commentary....
@Randall Johnson really? Wth? U need to calm down geezus. And all those illiterate mess ups are intentional! What the hell is the deal with all the freaking nazi grammar folks. There are bigger issues in this country and world than someone not using proper grammar.
@@rickmoreno6858 Rick , it would probably shock the living hell out of them to know that by 7th grade , I had the reading and word comprehension of a senior in college . Some people’s kids just don’t understand sarcasm or play on words . I appreciate you stepping in . Donn
I gave up on spray cans long ago, just because it was a waste of paint. Ridiculous amount of overspray from most spray cans. Createx water based paints work great for everything. Even rc. Thin them correctly, use the uvls uv resistant clear. Pretty much on par with 2k clear, and cleans up with just water. Anyone who airbrushes, ya need to give it a try!
I use Rustolium paint all the time on the kits and styrene scratch build models I do (99% of the time, fire engines) and to date, the only problem I've had was on one kit, the Trumpeter 2002 American LaFrance Pumper. And the problem turned out to be a bad valve on the can. Instead of spraying out in a nice even mist, it 'spit' out droplets along with the mist. Yeah, it took a few hours (actually almost a week, about an hour a night, of removing the paint from the body using anything that would get it off, but in the end, the paint job on that $89.00 kit came out almost flawless. Works for me so that's what I use. Now.....the price of these kits today...that's another story!!! I remember when a 'decent' kit ran around $20-$30 new. Now, 20 yrs later, ya can't get a reissue of the same kit for under $50 if you are lucky!!!!!!
I’m starting to get back in to model car building as I’m retired finally. I have a kit that sat on a shelf for 30+ years that I started on as my first project. I, having past experience with Rustolium running even when lightly sprayed, and since it was the brand of choice at my local hardware store, stupidly decided to try it. HUGE mistake! Turned out so bad that I found a kit like it for $10.00 that at least had the body in it and am going to follow your advise on this one.
It really depends on the chemical makeup of said paint.. a lot of acetone base paints will melt the plastic.. That being said, with the right primer down first you can remedy this issue but imo its better to use enemals and lacquers made for plastics. Takes any guess work out.
Great videos, Just wondering where I can get the yellow color that you used to paint the 1/8 Jaguar E-type that you had on some of your previous videos. I can’t seem to find the proper yellow color. I love the color you painted your Jag with. Can you tell me what it is and where I can get it? Thank you
Jackie , the color is a custom mix of mine . However , I would suggest contacting Mike Guest at MCW Finishes . He will come up with a perfect match for Butternut Yellow for you in either enamel or lacquer .
This is the first of your videos I have seen and you've captured my attention. You're laid back, not bombastic, no death metal music to contend with and you spoke matter-of-factly about the subject. I'm one of those that was attracted by the ultra large cans of Krylon. It's been a hassle in a few instances and good in a couple. I went to Krylon after being disappointed by Testors. Painting from a spray can has been pretty much of a crapshoot for me. I guess Tamiya is going to be next on my list, using Hobby Lobby's 40% off coupons.
Knowing how you paint your personal models, I would totally agree with you about the Rust-O-leum paints. The same thing happens when using hotter automotive lacquer paints. Since you don't use any barrier paints between the plastic and paint, what are your thoughts on that aspect of painting? Using a primer before using hotter paints that will eat into the plastic?
I do use primer when using lacquer products , it is a must . The individuals using the Rustoleum products are also priming before applying paint . It seems that the 2x clear is just too hot for the base coats . Just saw the same sad results several times again yesterday on the model pages .....
@@ScaleModelTechniques. It sounds like to me that the issue is really user error with the Rustoleum. Needs a sealing primer. I personally don't like that brand as it goes on too thick and ruins any details but it can be used if using the right primer. (I use a 2K primer when I did it.) The brand and type of base coat will make a difference when using a 2K clear, that's for sure.
Just did a build with the Rust O on a cheap car I won from EBAY. Rust O was still sticky days after painting. I've used primarily Tamiya and Testors products when building models.
Oh, and by the way, just my opinion....Mr Hobby / Mr Color are the best air brush paints out there right now. I like the Tamiya lacquers through my airbrush as well.
100% agree NO Big cans! I will use spray Testors or Tamiya for under body, interiors and such, usually air brush the body work always the best results with the most control..
I use rustoleum and i have never had a problem and used floor shine afterwards about a day after and the results have been great,one thing i can say is that i wonder if these people who has had a problem with the paint actually washed the parts first with degreaser and then let the parts dry.
I use the Metallizers as a primer for metallics and pearls . Standard colors are shot directly into the bare plastic which has been wet sanded up to 12000 using the rubber backed MicroMesh.....
My experience with painting styrene models has evolved to where I use normal automotive paints for exterior colors and totally stay away from the slow drying solvent reduced paints without a catalyst. With proper surface preparation I have zero issues with it and have the added bonus of the paint for a Candy apple red 1969 Mustang being actually and correctly that color. Modern catalyst paint systems are perfect for exterior color finishes in 95% of cases
I have painted a ton of cars with Rustolium paint. I paint it with three oats. First two coats are very light. Third and sometimes forth are medium coats. Works every time.
I am new to the Hobby...i have used some non model paint....ignorance my excuse and my normal hobby shop forced to close During lockdown..... Not Rustoleum but another big brand..... the paint was fine for a few weeks but did crack in no time.... thankfully i was planning on stripping it anyway.... the plastic ok thankfully...but who knows what would have happened if i had let it say on the bodyshell longer...proves your point anyway.... thank you.
I've noticed these new model car kits their plastic doesn't hold up well when i use break fluid to remove their paint. I bought a few used built model cars off ebay and of course the car wasn't painted well. So i opened a bottle of break fluid and i come a few minutes later and it actually started to melt the plastic so im standing there confused im looking at my break fluid bottle and nothing has changed and the model kit was made in 2019 so im guessing its the type of plastic their using so anyone who uses this method you may want to use a different method if the car was made in 2019.
I vebeen daying the same for years use paint made for plastic models, not rust oleum, duplicolor, or any other automotive finishes. Ive been building models since the 60s. I always used enamels. Or now tamiya products.
When we shot the video , the main problem across the board was the reaction between the Rustoleum base color and their 2X clear . At that time , screwups were rampant , and FaceBook modeling pages were flooded with posts complaining of the situation . To each their own , however , I am sticking with paints that were developed for use within the hobbies .......
Another thought after seeing this very informative video. It's a good one. Interesting note on disappearing modelers with age. I'll just say this... 1965..."Son to Dad, look at this model I finished! 2020...Dad to Son, look at this model I finished! Stop price gouging these kits! Bring back affordable kit prices and interest back to youths. When were gone so is this hobby!
I've painted several models in nothing but rustoleum and never had any issues! The 2 times I've had to strip paint due to my own screw up, my plastic has never been screwed up or un-salvageable. Maybe it's just operator error... just my opinion!
@@ryanedgley9077 tamiya "calsonic" r33 skyline, AMT 59 chrysler imperial, tamiya 1988 porsche 934, and plenty of other model cars since I was a kid up till now
@@ryanedgley9077 very nice.. ive built two of the tamiya r32's! keep in mind rustoleum is all the "2X" stuff now, so you have to go lighter on coats! Also the clear is finicky and you should practice on plastic spoons to get the timing of clear application down. Weather and humidity plays a big factor in painting. Sometimes rusto clear can be sprayed 15-30min after the last color coat goes on, and sometimes you have to wait several days to weeks before applying the clear! So definitely TEST and practice on plastic spoons or junk model pieces
I tested this theory with an Epoxy Gloss Coat, Worst mistake of my lifetime, it dulled the paint and melted the plastic, thank goodness i got a repair piece coming in!!
Are you in Clearwater, Fl? I'm right across the bay in Tampa. Been scale modeling for more than 60 years. I'll look for you at local shows when we have them. Swap meet coming up the last Sunday in February...Bear Hobby Shop. Not my shop, it belongs to a guy named Greg. Usually, a good turnout at his swap meets, twice a year.
Part 2..Issues with hood & body..I've used Rust-Oleum Ultra paint before & no issue..I've restripped both once & said no again..Since this model is for me to see in my house Im going to live with it..From now on I'll stick to Tamiya paints for body & hood.
Not going to argue and say that rustoleum is good paint for plastic models by any stretch but I am going to correct him when he said that rustoleum bonds and "melts into the plastic". Maybe he misspoke. Semantics. I get it. But I know it doesn't literally melt the plastic because I have screwed up paint jobs with Rust-Oleum numerous times and have stripped the same models back down to the plastic no problem. No melted plastic. Going to miss this guy being around. I've learned a lot from him May he rest in peace
Geez i didn't know people were still doing this , my wife bought me 2 kits for Christmas I didn't know they still existed . And dang what happened to the 6 dollar kits lol 30 dollars now . I'm gonna give it a try again been 30 years lol
Dont forget to trash Duplicolor to while your at it. LOL. I tried a metalic once from Duplicolor and got it super shinney ...but man you could see a heavy texture under the gloss. Ya know...people can make anything work but is really worth the extra effort? Love the Tamiya stuf. In a lot of cases you won't even need primer. Any hardware store product you wouldn't even think about not using primer.
So now that Testor’s is out…so I’ve heard and I’ve ordered you’re 4 videos and I believe that’s the paint you use or used! So what paint are you using now in 2022?
I haven't had any issues (yet) with Rustoleum's clear coats but I wouldn't dare use any of their other enamel paints on a plastic model, it sprays way too thick etc.
OMG you are right! I used Rustoleum because I heard it was great for plastics, used it to paint a tamiya body and an airsoft rifle... big mistake!! I couldn't work out why it *reacted* like acid on the plastic. I'd spray it on, very light coat, it looked great, then 30 seconds later I'd look at what I'd sprayed, and while drying it had EATEN into the paint, like acid, with little bubbles coming up on the surface, cracks, etc. Since then I switched to airbrushing with regular glass bottle paints, never had same issue.
Because I have already heard about some guys who are in their 50's and 60's and they are building model cars and model truck's so please let me know just if I'm to old to be building models, thanks!..... .
Enamel is not the same between makers. Solvents in the formulas differ. Rust-oleum for one is formulated for exterior wear. The nozzles are not made for modeling. Even though hpi guys uses them.
Personally I would never use exterior enamel paint on my models. However...... If you are not so good at painting or your spray technique is crap then even Tamiya spray paints will look crap... Even airbrush lacquer paints will look crap. Painting is a learning curve, you do not have to follow or use the same products that other people use, make your own decisions, I did, no one told me what I should use.
Would love to hear your opinion on reduced nail polish. Just moved into an apartment, so looking at my options to keep smell down and can't use automotive grade paints right now. My paint booth doesn't work THAT good lol
I've been building models since 1959, and was one of Testor's biggest supporters, but with what is happening with them after their purchase by Rustoleum, I've started changing to Tamiya. I have also started using my air brush more, but I'm lazy and don't like the cleanup after painting. I've watched your videos and articles for a long time, and have always felt comfortable with your advice and tutorials. I also do dioramas, two of which have been buildings of substantial size, one a car dealership and one a large garage/machine shop. Because of cost, I'd considered using Rustoleum on them, but instead, I went the extra expense and used Tamiya and Testors paints. This was the right choice, as using products made for the intended purpose results in intended quality. I ended up with some enjoyable dioramas instead of several hundred dollars worth of wasted plastic. Maybe I'm just old and set in my ways, but I'm a huge believer in using products designed for their intended purpose. Thanks you and keep posting these videos.
Same here i feel the same way.
Even since rustoleum owns testors the paint remains the same. I used metallic gold recently on a model and its gorgeous..
Im new to this hobby and have ruined my first two models with Rustolium 2x Clear. At first I thought I had done something wrong but turns out its just the paint. I used Tamiya primer and Tamiya paint then went over it with the Rustolium clear to make it shiny but it ate away the paint and even some of the primer and left the surface of the plastic with a grainy and bumby texture all over.
Thank you for doing this video. Really helps new people like me not make more mistakes.
You must work for them. The results I get from regular spray paint are way better. And you can wet sand it, compound polish and wax them. Once the plastic rehardens it's as strong as a real auto finish
I’m watching this video for the second time. You are absolutely correct about the Rustoleum paint, and the same for the Krylon paint. I have had several models turn out great, but I have had a few go to crap. It’s just not worth the money you save with those paints, because you end up stripping the model and buying the correct paint. Now, I have had success all of the time with their primers. Thanks for sharing.
Rip Donn. I hope your life partner, Jake can find peace.
Glad I ran across this blog. I’ve been having that problem for a year and nobody but you had an answer! Thanks for sharing! 😎
Thanks Don great video thank you I fell in that rustoleum trap following a u tube person who will remain anonymous but you probably know whom I referred to I used many of his recommendations and they were great failures you are a godsend to modelers with your information I have purchased your latest videos and follow them always Thank you!!!!!
I bet I could name that channel as well and guy. He uses rustoleum probably because you can hide all of the uglyness and mess ups on camera he has to produce models very quickly so he does it cheap as possible as well.
@@youknoweverything7643 you mean hpiguys workshops? I like him!
@@MrPolicekarim I understand the title is meant to grab attention but I think saying "toxic cocktail" is a bit of an overstatement . Wouldn't be much more toxic than let's say tamiya on plastic. All commonly used model paints have a toxic element to them. I'm not totally discounting the video however because if a primer of the same brand as the paint is not used one may end up with a crappy paint job. I learned this from experience. Once I started using the flat black or gray primers (color depending in on what you are trying to achieve) the paint will go on smoothly and the "stretching" stopped happening. Another thing to keep in mind is the atmosphere in which you are spraying the paint, temp/humidity which greatly affects your finished product. Just my two cents. Everybody has their own opinions and what works for them. BTW I will give hpiguys props as well although my son and I cars may come out looking a little better ,we do enjoy his stuff and also understand he is doing promo work as well.
All I'll say about the paint topic is this; since I got away from hardware store paints & went with strictly Tamiya primer (fine, white), colors, and clears, my modeling enjoyment has GREATLY improved!
Everybody’s trying to save a buck instead of listening to us old guys that learned a long time ago that trying to save a buck will cost you in the end
Exactly. You know this generation though, most of them know it all until it's to late lol
Thank You Sir I'm just getting back into scale model building for the first time in years. I have been doing a lot of reading and youtube video watching and thank god I came across your channel about Rustoleum paints. these days it all seems to be all about Tamiya, Tamiya, Tamiya. You just got to go with what works best in this day and age of model building. Testors just isn't the standard that it once was. Thank You so much from a new subscriber with big thumbs up!
Great advice on Rustoleum. 2k however is the mildest clear out there. Very safe over decals and will never damage/eat into paint/plastic.
Rustoleum 2x was the brand that was being referred to ........ Mentioning 2k was a mistake on our part ....
Not the same clear he was talking about!
If you make a mistake have Super Clean on hand. Its about $10 for a gallon. Pour some in a large enough container and let the model soak. Use a toothbrush to help remove the paint every hour or so. It may leave a little bit on the model but you will primer it anyway. Just did it last night.
I built models for years with Rust-Oleum with no issues as long as you clean the parts first with Simple Green.
Never had a problem with Rustoleum brush paint on metal furniture.
I am a outdoor model railroader & have only used Krylon spray paint to paint freight cars. Never had a problem spraying Krylon on plastic styrene 1:20.3 scale model freight cars. They still hold up under all kinds of weather. In my HO club Krylon is used on large buildings, e.g. steel mills, coking plants, sky scrapers, etc... No problems on plastic. No paint smell (Krylon also makes a water based paint). Krylon also has a UV resistant clear coat, great for outdoor models.
Hey I've watched a lot of your videos. Learned a lot. Since August I've been building model cars. Out of 11 kits I only so far kept 3 which passed to be professional builds.
I tried using model car paint and it wasn't balsy enough. I use regular spray paint, mainly rustoleum and I get the most durable incredible finish out of them. I bake it and wait a week or more until the plastic rehardens then freeze them so the plastic contracts and it works great. Then again I'm a weirdo. Thanks for your videos
thank you mr. yost on the tip of stripping a model car body work great
Funny to hear mention of Jim here. He's a great guy. Thank you!!! Thank you!! for addressing this!!! I can't count how many times I have told modelers over the past 30+ years new and old not to use Krylon and Rustoleum to this very day!!! Now you've got UA-camr's with channels on here, "you know who you are", that solely use this crap and the beginners then take that as gospel in turn doing the same exact thing. Then they come onto the forums, Facebook, etc complaining and wondering why they have issues.
I have had zero issues with Rustoleum. Although I haven't planned on or needed to strip any paint.
I'm currently doing a 1960 Chevy Apache and the Turquoise Rustoleum 2x is working quite well. Bought the paint mainly to match a stock color that was discontinued by Model Master. Anyways! Just throwing my 2 cents in; Haven't had any issues with Rustoleum and my Chevy is looking great.
Cheers! 🤘🏻
If you're good with rustoleum etc. It makes the model car spray paint seem like toys.
Main right on point of this information for me is. Cost of paint vs cost of today's kits. This is not 1965 any longer, kits are not $1.50. Spend the extra for good paint! Yes I'm that old, buildings kits since early 60's when kids built the models and you showed finished builds to your dad, not dads showing kids like today.
Love ur advice.... wishing the models here in Canada were a little cheaper everywhere I go its 40 to 50$$ I have spent tones on ebay
I have had nothing but horrible experience with Rustoleum. I now only use Testors or Tamiya
Tamiya & Testors always works well for me.
I can second this. Just getting into modeling and of course went for cheap Rust-Oleum right off the bat! Talk about orange peel! I even warm the can up, thin coats etc. It's not made for plastic! Lol now I will say it works for me on interiors so far for a base coat but I will never put it on another body. No way! Love your videos! Very helpful. Going to get your DVDs soon.
I've learned my lesson. I've been buying Tamiya primer and you are correct. It is worth the investment.
Ahhh, I do miss watching these videos old man. I’m sorry to hear about the legends passing. I had no idea. I’ve had trouble keeping up with the hobby in recent years due to unexpected events. I still plan on jumping back on the train when I can work all this crap out and have free time again. I smell a rebirth of the UA-cam channel here soon. Keep an eye out. Glad to see you’re still at it. Oh yeah, ai may need to get a hold of that new dvd. Have a great one sir. -Salute-
what a nice man and he works with you on any problem you may have with your model car thank you
I've got a 67 Gto model I'd love to get a set of Craiger wheels for . Do you have any videos on how to do a two-tone paint job or how to do ralley strips on a car ?
Re-coat time can be a problem as well as paint type interaction. Test paints and primers before committing. 2X seems to have a problem if no primer is used on model kits like it flash dries with a static line running through somewhere but some spots that look ok. Someone mentioned that it will cover too heavy and obscure details, yes there is that.
I use duplicolor perfect match, Dries fast, no runs, and it dries hard.
They make one of the best primers too.
I could not agree more. People practice false economies and have a poor understanding of paint chemistry. Thanks for your wise words.
I always wondered why HPI guys workshop uses floor polish rather than 2k clear for his finishes. he uses rustoleum exclusively for his models. on my monitor they actually look pretty good if your not planning on entering a contest. Thanks for your excellent commentary....
@Randall Johnson really? Wth? U need to calm down geezus. And all those illiterate mess ups are intentional! What the hell is the deal with all the freaking nazi grammar folks. There are bigger issues in this country and world than someone not using proper grammar.
I've always wondered why he has never had his models graze or melt due to the Rustoleum
@@rickmoreno6858 Rick , it would probably shock the living hell out of them to know that by 7th grade , I had the reading and word comprehension of a senior in college . Some people’s kids just don’t understand sarcasm or play on words .
I appreciate you stepping in .
Donn
I wonder have you ever try splash paints if so what are your thoughts on them? Me and my son have channel he is 13 has ADHD but this helps him focus
Rustoleum burned me once. I switched over to Duplicolor or similar automotive urethanes. Never looked back and no paint issues.
I gave up on spray cans long ago, just because it was a waste of paint. Ridiculous amount of overspray from most spray cans.
Createx water based paints work great for everything. Even rc. Thin them correctly, use the uvls uv resistant clear.
Pretty much on par with 2k clear, and cleans up with just water. Anyone who airbrushes, ya need to give it a try!
I use Rustolium paint all the time on the kits and styrene scratch build models I do (99% of the time, fire engines) and to date, the only problem I've had was on one kit, the Trumpeter 2002 American LaFrance Pumper. And the problem turned out to be a bad valve on the can. Instead of spraying out in a nice even mist, it 'spit' out droplets along with the mist. Yeah, it took a few hours (actually almost a week, about an hour a night, of removing the paint from the body using anything that would get it off, but in the end, the paint job on that $89.00 kit came out almost flawless. Works for me so that's what I use. Now.....the price of these kits today...that's another story!!! I remember when a 'decent' kit ran around $20-$30 new. Now, 20 yrs later, ya can't get a reissue of the same kit for under $50 if you are lucky!!!!!!
I’m starting to get back in to model car building as I’m retired finally. I have a kit that sat on a shelf for 30+ years that I started on as my first project. I, having past experience with Rustolium running even when lightly sprayed, and since it was the brand of choice at my local hardware store, stupidly decided to try it. HUGE mistake! Turned out so bad that I found a kit like it for $10.00 that at least had the body in it and am going to follow your advise on this one.
It really depends on the chemical makeup of said paint.. a lot of acetone base paints will melt the plastic.. That being said, with the right primer down first you can remedy this issue but imo its better to use enemals and lacquers made for plastics. Takes any guess work out.
Great videos, Just wondering where I can get the yellow color that you used to paint the 1/8 Jaguar E-type that you had on some of your previous videos. I can’t seem to find the proper yellow color. I love the color you painted your Jag with. Can you tell me what it is and where I can get it? Thank you
Jackie , the color is a custom mix of mine . However , I would suggest contacting Mike Guest at MCW Finishes . He will come up with a perfect match for Butternut Yellow for you in either enamel or lacquer .
This is the first of your videos I have seen and you've captured my attention. You're laid back, not bombastic, no death metal music
to contend with and you spoke matter-of-factly about the subject. I'm one of those that was attracted by the ultra large cans of Krylon.
It's been a hassle in a few instances and good in a couple. I went to Krylon after being disappointed by Testors. Painting from a spray
can has been pretty much of a crapshoot for me. I guess Tamiya is going to be next on my list, using Hobby Lobby's 40% off coupons.
I love death metal lol.
Very well said, could not agree more, that stuff causes crazing like mad.
thanks for the tip ... no mo rustoleum ... ive been thinking going airbrush....
I've used Rust-Oleum on car bodies, sometimes I get a good paint job, most times not.
Knowing how you paint your personal models, I would totally agree with you about the Rust-O-leum paints. The same thing happens when using hotter automotive lacquer paints.
Since you don't use any barrier paints between the plastic and paint, what are your thoughts on that aspect of painting? Using a primer before using hotter paints that will eat into the plastic?
I do use primer when using lacquer products , it is a must . The individuals using the Rustoleum products are also priming before applying paint . It seems that the 2x clear is just too hot for the base coats . Just saw the same sad results several times again yesterday on the model pages .....
@@ScaleModelTechniques. It sounds like to me that the issue is really user error with the Rustoleum. Needs a sealing primer. I personally don't like that brand as it goes on too thick and ruins any details but it can be used if using the right primer. (I use a 2K primer when I did it.)
The brand and type of base coat will make a difference when using a 2K clear, that's for sure.
Would u recommend automobile real paint on a model kit car? I wanna get the same paint and should I air brush it or spray paint it comes in both
i like using tamiya spray can and primer
Just did a build with the Rust O on a cheap car I won from EBAY. Rust O was still sticky days after painting. I've used primarily Tamiya and Testors products when building models.
Oh, and by the way, just my opinion....Mr Hobby / Mr Color are the best air brush paints out there right now. I like the Tamiya lacquers through my airbrush as well.
What do you recommend for small 1 64 scale diecast I just want it for small details like front and rear lights 🏎️
I use Tamiya or duplicolor or model masters. I don't have an airbrush. I learned my lesson on Rust-Oleum a few times. Lol.
Nd Mr.yost ur models r amazing 👌👍
100% agree NO Big cans! I will use spray Testors or Tamiya for under body, interiors and such, usually air brush the body work always the best results with the most control..
Maybe you should do a special on paint and show the msds sheet on percentages of volatile components compared to good model paint.
Krylon Crystal Clear works fine. Actually if you know what you're doing virtually all clear coats work well.
I almost bought a can today as an emergency out for a Blackburn Buccaneer and I’m glad I didn’t. I’ll just wait until the Hobby store opens lol
I use rustoleum and i have never had a problem and used floor shine afterwards about a day after and the results have been great,one thing i can say is that i wonder if these people who has had a problem with the paint actually washed the parts first with degreaser and then let the parts dry.
Do you still recommend using Model Master's Metalizer Lacquers as a protective coat?
I use the Metallizers as a primer for metallics and pearls . Standard colors are shot directly into the bare plastic which has been wet sanded up to 12000 using the rubber backed MicroMesh.....
Man, I just had this happened to...Building my version of Kye Kelly's Shocker 83 NPK Camaro..Use Rust-Oleum gloss black. Got issues with my hood
I've used rustoleum primer and crystal clear lacquer with Holts automotive paint and never had issues. Wouldn't use rustoleum colours on a kit though
I use PPG and house of kolor automotive paints on my large scale builds
My experience with painting styrene models has evolved to where I use normal automotive paints for exterior colors and totally stay away from the slow drying solvent reduced paints without a catalyst.
With proper surface preparation I have zero issues with it and have the added bonus of the paint for a Candy apple red 1969 Mustang being actually and correctly that color. Modern catalyst paint systems are perfect for exterior color finishes in 95% of cases
I have painted a ton of cars with Rustolium paint. I paint it with three oats. First two coats are very light. Third and sometimes forth are medium coats. Works every time.
Well said. It will also damage small parts. Use bulk acrylic paints to shad your colors.
I am new to the Hobby...i have used some non model paint....ignorance my excuse and my normal hobby shop forced to close During lockdown..... Not Rustoleum but another big brand..... the paint was fine for a few weeks but did crack in no time.... thankfully i was planning on stripping it anyway.... the plastic ok thankfully...but who knows what would have happened if i had let it say on the bodyshell longer...proves your point anyway.... thank you.
blame the painter not the paint
What about using it for painting diecast cars?
I've noticed these new model car kits their plastic doesn't hold up well when i use break fluid to remove their paint. I bought a few used built model cars off ebay and of course the car wasn't painted well. So i opened a bottle of break fluid and i come a few minutes later and it actually started to melt the plastic so im standing there confused im looking at my break fluid bottle and nothing has changed and the model kit was made in 2019 so im guessing its the type of plastic their using so anyone who uses this method you may want to use a different method if the car was made in 2019.
Are you sure the body wasn’t a resin piece ? That is the exact reaction you get when resin and brake fluid meet up .....
I love that van. I have one also! Yeah! Lol
I seen this going on every weekend. Good call . use paint made for modeling.
I vebeen daying the same for years use paint made for plastic models, not rust oleum, duplicolor, or any other automotive finishes. Ive been building models since the 60s. I always used enamels. Or now tamiya products.
Subscribed 🤜🤛
I haven't tried this yet but if you use an undercoat that is harmless to styrene, then can you use Rustoleum?
When we shot the video , the main problem across the board was the reaction between the Rustoleum base color and their 2X clear . At that time , screwups were rampant , and FaceBook modeling pages were flooded with posts complaining of the situation . To each their own , however , I am sticking with paints that were developed for use within the hobbies .......
hpiguys workshop channel, he uses it on the outside of the body? And his looks perfect? I don’t get it?
Another thought after seeing this very informative video. It's a good one.
Interesting note on disappearing modelers with age. I'll just say this...
1965..."Son to Dad, look at this model I finished! 2020...Dad to Son, look at this model I finished!
Stop price gouging these kits! Bring back affordable kit prices and interest back to youths. When were gone so is this hobby!
Your right about that. They moved the manufacturing to China and mostly old tooling no reason they should cost what they do now
I've painted several models in nothing but rustoleum and never had any issues! The 2 times I've had to strip paint due to my own screw up, my plastic has never been screwed up or un-salvageable.
Maybe it's just operator error... just my opinion!
What kinda model?
@@ryanedgley9077 tamiya "calsonic" r33 skyline, AMT 59 chrysler imperial, tamiya 1988 porsche 934, and plenty of other model cars since I was a kid up till now
@@adamfritz84 ah nice, im expecting a tamiya r32 in the mail. Good to hear tamiya models are safe
@@ryanedgley9077 very nice.. ive built two of the tamiya r32's! keep in mind rustoleum is all the "2X" stuff now, so you have to go lighter on coats! Also the clear is finicky and you should practice on plastic spoons to get the timing of clear application down. Weather and humidity plays a big factor in painting. Sometimes rusto clear can be sprayed 15-30min after the last color coat goes on, and sometimes you have to wait several days to weeks before applying the clear! So definitely TEST and practice on plastic spoons or junk model pieces
@@adamfritz84 oh okay, well thanks!
Well said!!!!
I tested this theory with an Epoxy Gloss Coat, Worst mistake of my lifetime, it dulled the paint and melted the plastic, thank goodness i got a repair piece coming in!!
I use rustoleum primer, for clear I’ve been using Krylon. I use them on the “cheaper” kits $30 range. For the larger 50+ I use Mr, Color.
Are you in Clearwater, Fl? I'm right across the bay in Tampa. Been scale modeling for more than 60 years. I'll look for you at local shows when we have them. Swap meet coming up the last Sunday in February...Bear Hobby Shop. Not my shop, it belongs to a guy named Greg. Usually, a good turnout at his swap meets, twice a year.
Maybe I should show my model cars that have been clear-coated with Rustoleum , you will change your outlook on Rustoleum😉
Part 2..Issues with hood & body..I've used Rust-Oleum Ultra paint before & no issue..I've restripped both once & said no again..Since this model is for me to see in my house Im going to live with it..From now on I'll stick to Tamiya paints for body & hood.
Never had 2k clear eat into any paint
It is the 2x from Rustoleum that was being referred to , Tom . Sorry , a blunder on our part .....
@@ScaleModelTechniques no worries
man i been looking for cargar wheels for look time where do you get your at that are chrome can you help i love the old school wheels
Model Roundup has Cragar wheels for scale models.
Not going to argue and say that rustoleum is good paint for plastic models by any stretch but I am going to correct him when he said that rustoleum bonds and "melts into the plastic". Maybe he misspoke. Semantics.
I get it.
But I know it doesn't literally melt the plastic because I have screwed up paint jobs with Rust-Oleum numerous times and have stripped the same models back down to the plastic no problem. No melted plastic. Going to miss this guy being around. I've learned a lot from him May he rest in peace
I don't know - I think the cheap stuff is fine for chassis, engines and suspension. Maybe spend more on the body paint and clear.
Geez i didn't know people were still doing this , my wife bought me 2 kits for Christmas I didn't know they still existed . And dang what happened to the 6 dollar kits lol 30 dollars now . I'm gonna give it a try again been 30 years lol
Hello my friend im Ray from Malta you are Master of Models i make car too i wish i me in USA to meet you thank my friend
Totally agree
Dont forget to trash Duplicolor to while your at it. LOL. I tried a metalic once from Duplicolor and got it super shinney ...but man you could see a heavy texture under the gloss. Ya know...people can make anything work but is really worth the extra effort?
Love the Tamiya stuf. In a lot of cases you won't even need primer. Any hardware store product you wouldn't even think about not using primer.
So now that Testor’s is out…so I’ve heard and I’ve ordered you’re 4 videos and I believe that’s the paint you use or used! So what paint are you using now in 2022?
MCW Finishes enamel .
Thanks I’ll do my research on that!!
Yeah,I've never used Rustoleum on models. Rustoleum does work well on wood too...just not on plastic model kits great video! Thanks!
I haven't had any issues (yet) with Rustoleum's clear coats but I wouldn't dare use any of their other enamel paints on a plastic model, it sprays way too thick etc.
OMG you are right! I used Rustoleum because I heard it was great for plastics, used it to paint a tamiya body and an airsoft rifle... big mistake!! I couldn't work out why it *reacted* like acid on the plastic. I'd spray it on, very light coat, it looked great, then 30 seconds later I'd look at what I'd sprayed, and while drying it had EATEN into the paint, like acid, with little bubbles coming up on the surface, cracks, etc. Since then I switched to airbrushing with regular glass bottle paints, never had same issue.
Did you use primer before applying paint or spray paint directly?
what I got from this is; don't screw up the paint in the first place and you're good.
Because I have already heard about some guys who are in their 50's and 60's and they are building model cars and model truck's so please let me know just if I'm to old to be building models, thanks!..... .
Enamel is not the same between makers. Solvents in the formulas differ. Rust-oleum for one is formulated for exterior wear. The nozzles are not made for modeling. Even though hpi guys uses them.
Very true I use a lot of auto paint and jim Pardini good man I deal with him all the time
Hi Don what is your go to primer
If I use any at all , it will be Tamiya or Duplicolor …
Personally I would never use exterior enamel paint on my models.
However...... If you are not so good at painting or your spray technique is crap then even Tamiya spray paints will look crap... Even airbrush lacquer paints will look crap.
Painting is a learning curve, you do not have to follow or use the same products that other people use, make your own decisions, I did, no one told me what I should use.
My god you got hands, imagine that!
What about metal diecast cars is Rust-Oleum good for that
Yes because it’s metal
@@shawntripp9380 ok thanks
Would love to hear your opinion on reduced nail polish. Just moved into an apartment, so looking at my options to keep smell down and can't use automotive grade paints right now. My paint booth doesn't work THAT good lol
Reduced with SunnySide lacquer thinner , it is a very viable option to airbrush your models with .....
again thank you mr. yost
Explains why I cannot remove the paint. So I will sand and repaint..