Here are the sharpness numbers from the end of this video as well as the follow-up where they used a strop. Lower is better. #1 (Push): 176 after stones, 104 after strop #2 (Pull): 374 after stones, 181 after strop #3 (Sawing): 242 after stones, 191 after strop #4 (Sweep): 298 after stones, 159 after strop
I've used a sweep technique for may years, so those results didn't surprise me. All 4 in the "scary sharp" catagory after stropping, just shows one has to go through all the steps to get a knife truly sharp.
Old School Wisdom Strikes Again! My grandpa taught me to sharpen a knife when I was very young. He said, you always sharpen like the knife cuts. He showed me the technique yall are calling a Push when I was a kid. For the last 40 years, I've sharpened my knives that way and have always been happy with the edge I got. Thank you young men. It was fun to watch modern science prove him right, some 100+ years after he sharpened his first knife. He was a WWII vet, and the most intelligent man I've ever known.
23 mins of knife sharpening with equipment I already own...how lucky did I get in the you tube algorithm lottery lol. Great vids guys you taught me a lot. Ps I have always been the saw or sweep guy. Saw to take off metal quick and sweep to finish it😎
My grandfather taught me to sharpen the ax, hand saws, knives and chisels with a push strokes into the blades. I’ve always wondered about other motions and if one was better or worse. Thank you for the video and the up-close looks at these.
I’m a sawing guy and I am absolutely more than happy with the results I get in such a short amount of time. I will be a die hard worksharp fan for life. The highest quality and most available to anyone products on the market. Keep up the amazing work worksharp.
Your videos are very useful, but this series (Push vs Pull) is the has the greatest utility. By altering my approach to using saw method for reprofiling, then switching to push method for sharpening and finally stropping my sharpness increased substantially (hairs pop off my arm). Your approach using the microscope and BESS tester takes the guesswork out of “which is sharpest” and most importantly “Why”. Well done gentlemen!
Got this kit a month ago. Did kitchen knives including paring knives. Love it. Wife happy. Thanks to the person who provided the summary of sharpness results. You need to to learn from him. Really pay attention. I’ll try push next time.
Yes, doing only one leads to the end result (conclusion): "No test!" You will have to do enough tests per blade so you will be able to determine what the gross average is and what the out-lier-values are.
I was taught decades ago to sharpen a knife with the push method. It always made me wonder how good sawing is since that’s pretty much how every UA-camr I’ve watched does it, but old dog new tricks kept me from learning a whole new method. I guess it’s for the best I didn’t pick up new habits lol.
My takeaway is that you should finish every grit each side without unclamping. You need to redo this with 4 sharpeners so you don't have to ever unclamp a knife before finishing the side. The course grit will remove enough material to have full contact with the sharpened surface then finer grits will clean up the edge but for best results you need to maintain very exact contact through every grit.
Definitely, we underestimated the impact that re-clamping would have. We ended up with sharp knives, but maintaining angle and clamp position is key to consistency.
well b4 starting 1 should take care and know witch type of bladed metal there useing as diff metals have diff. outputs also it depends on the methed chu use too sharpen a blade for exsample i use a 400 & 600 grit dimond stone + im used ta freehand sharpening soo my blades norm. get done quick and easy but tats mainly becuz i use a dimond stone but for sharpness theres wike a 4 ta 6 step process but the main 3 things too know are 1st the type of metal chur blades made of 2nd the methed 1 uses and 3rd it depends on exsactly HOW sharp chu want a blade to be 😏 my blades are used for hunting soo i keep em sharp enough too just rend and clean slice threw flesh 😄 oh b4 i forget make sure to sharpen a blade even after its used even once as even simple paper cut tests can dull a blade vry quickly :/
This video is so flawed. Maybe this way works good but maybe it was the clamp…Take this video down and repost it later when you do it correctly. I love my WorkSharp and really wanted to improve my technique. This video did nothing other than waste my time
@@davidkeefe9468 what? Each time the absolute micro bevel was affected and ground. So the reclamping maybe caused a 2nd bevel but the final bevel was sharpens with each method to the ground.
WOW guys!!! Amazing, well done, this is easily one of the most complete and objective, no BS, and scientific knife sharpening videos I’ve seen. Even though I no longer use sharpening systems but prefer free hand whetstones, this has confirmed some things I’ve suspected for some time. In knifemaking, when hand sanding a blade, we always say one must never move to the next highest grit until all the previous grit size scratches have been removed. In the microscope view you can clearly still see some of the previous grits scratches between the higher grit finish on each step and even some scratches 2 step back. This would take longer to achieve “perfection” with no scratches of the previous grit sizes, but virtually impossible without a microscopic camera and constant monitoring, one wouldn’t be able to see it with the naked eye and probably won’t see a massive improvement in performance. Thanks, great video!
I'd like to see what they look like after they have been stroped with the green compound. That would seem to give the edge the best result for removing the burrs.
The "sweep", when done on a water stone with a western style kitchen knife, is commonly referred to as the "Kramer" method (as in Bob Kramer) or aka the "Crescent" method, and can be highly effective when executed correctly. The "Push" method and the "Saw" method are both (yet neither at the same time) a popular Japanese sharpening method referred to as the "Push/Pull" method. When pushing (edge trailing), pressure is applied a few millimeters above the contacting edge with two fingers from the free hand (whichever hand isn't gripping the knife). On the pull stroke (edge leading), the pressure applied by the fingers is released from the edge while remaining in contact with the blade, and without lifting the edge away from the sharpening surface. Pushing with pressure raises the burr, pulling without pressure helps to roll the burr and sheer it off without forcing abrasive grit into the apex which, as you saw during your experiment, will create jagged serrations or saw toothed edge. On the opposite side of this, if pulling only, eventually a "foil" edge will occur (if stropped in the opposite direction at a sharper angle than the bevel was pulled prior to the foil edge developing, a decently sharp edge can be achieved) requiring the edge to be manually blunted or "bricked" and the sharpening process started from the beginning. UA-camrs, "An Engineer's Perspective" & "Burrfection" both have videos detailing the cause and effect of multiple sharpening methods, issues, and solutions. GL. PS. The "transition from bevel to primary grind" is called the "shoulder". Hopefully that makes your life a little easier! lol
@@Lg_tuber I use mirror edges on my leather cutting blades and nothing else. I have guys who buy my hunting knives they are going to use who would have a fit if I put a buffed edge on it. Most people seldom really need to use their edc knives and probably slicing sheets of paper isn't one of them except to open packages or envelopes I seldom use mine. My kitchen knives on the other hand get used, a nice quick stropped 800 grit edge does any job you need including popping hair off your arm. That's just for show, I can shave arm hair with 600 grit stropped lightly. I used to have a summer job just sharpening knives and scalpels, some by hand in the 70s. Been sharpening ever since.
I just bought that system with the help of watching your videos. I was able to get a knife extremely sharp the first day. I’m a total beginner, and it was super easy to use.
Excellent! I'm 77 y o and a long time sharpener. I learned several things viewing your approach in this video. Much obliged! I would really like to see some results following stropping when you get to that stage.
On my system, which I progress through at least 6 stones, I use the saw technique for profiling and the next lowest grit. I then use the sweeping technique for the rest all the way up to ceramics. I find you get a mirror edge far faster and nicer, with the sweep on your highest grits.
I will now used the sawing technique on the profiling stage, the pulling technique on the sharpening stage, and pushing technique on the final stages. Ty
After a burr has developed and you flip the knife, I think it is important to do an initial pull stroke before "sawing". In my experience this prevents the burr from folding over or breaking off prematurely.
Just bought one of these and I've been having fun, what I find works well is the sawing motion for reshaping the edge up to 400 grit and then switch to upwards sweep motion with 600+ to polish, been getting nice razor sharp results.
For those of us with similar OCD about sharpening knives, there's yet another issue beyond the measureable sharpness shown on a static sharpness tester: how well does it cut? I believe that most cuts - with food, in particular - are not done along a line perpendicular to the line of the blade edge, but rather in a slicing motion that moves the blade both through and across the material being cut - whether tomato or meat; i.e., a little "sawing" motion. It's not clear to me whether or not in THAT case, it's more important to have a slight "serration" (at the microscope level) on the blade rather than a perfectly linear, flaw-free edge. To see a glass-like, perfectly polished, flawless edge is satisfying, yes; and does such an edge cut through a sharpness tester better than any other?: Quite possibly. But does it cut as effectively as an edge with a little bit of irregularity along the apex, such that the cutting force is concentrated on the "peaks" of the irregularity, multiplying the force per unit area along that peak? I started out confessing to OCD; you now see why. The reason I question this is that it's too easy to get obsessed with the cosmetic perfection of the edge rather than the reason we are sharpening in the first place, which is to sharpen in order to CUT. Both visual observation and testing with a sharpness tester are biased towards the cosmetics or the angular perfection of the blade's apex. But if you are slicing, it could be the effect of the force exerted by the knife edge in the slicing motion that determines its effectiveness in use. In fact, I suspect that - at a far more "macro" level - the reason for the existence of serrated blades is exactly that: concentration of force at a point, rather than along a linear edge. I don't know how you test that, however, other than subjectively in use. Very interesting video, and the microscopic views were very interesting and informative. Thanks for the info!
When you are sharpening a larger blade, like a kitchen knife, won't the angle change as your stone moves away from perpendicular to the machine? When i put my kitchen knife in, and put the angle measuring tool on it and select 15 degrees, if i then put the stone all the way out to the tip, the angle on the measuring tool reads 13 degrees.
Enjoyed this. Very informative. Three generations of pushing, to sharpen. I bought this sharpener 3 weeks ago and like it a lot. Very stable. I use the sweeping method to keep from eating too much material and to keep the edge centered. For me it is a game changer from a stone. I have been told a burr has to be made to sharpen a blade. I am still foggy on what a burr looks like. I have sharpened, from pocket knives to camping knives, all have a great edge. I will use the push method next round of sharpening. Thanks for the video. Keep them coming.
Happy to help! A burr is hard to see with the naked eye which is why we recommend feeling for it. For a great visual representation, check out @outdoors55. His camera setup is next level when it comes to sharpening up close.
I use a combination of techniques here, push and sweep to the tip then pull and sweep away from the tip thru all grits and it really seems to give a nice polished edge even before I strop.
Thank you 🙏 I know this is several years later but I just received my work sharp system and this absolutely 💯 helped me. I’m using the push method and it’s absolutely amazing. So thank you guys !!!!! 👍❤️🙏
The results and video of the knife motion make me think the push works best with the clamp. The clamp is very stable but the saw action seems to move the blade the most. I will probably push to finish knives now. The saw action could still be used to reprofile before switching to push only. Love this sharpener and haven't had a bad result yet.
This has always been the $65,000 question since aided sharpening systems have evolved and I was glued to the video from start to finish. It certainly answered a few of the majors, but it also certainly raised a few more minors, most of which have been addressed in some of the comments here. It would’ve been very interesting to see if stropping would’ve made a big difference right at the end to satisfy most of the those outstanding questions, because even you guys wondered that! The fact that clamping stays firmly clamped from start to finish and on this system only rotates is a wonderful facet of this unique system but somehow don’t feel that carrying on grits without turning would make such a big a difference for me personally to note and I might get lost in the process, plus I like to personally progress both sides to the end. Very, very interesting indeed though and think that most folk gravitating to this particular video have asked the same question for years and will come out of this leaning one way or the other but wondering about a strop finish. However, I personally came out of this once again to my own mind, deciding I will continue the push and always strop at the end. I also now take photographs of the clamped blade so that I can replicate to the best of my ability the same exact clamping as the last time on a particular knife. I have so many knives, plus kitchen knives, that I have to do that because I don’t remember exactly where I clamped the blade on each. Thank you for this and now it’s back to what is the secret to the universe?
With most my knives I mark with a sharpie marker where I set the blade in the clamp and then with a dremmel tool cut 2 tiny marks on the corner of the blade so next time I have readymade reference points. Obviously if you love the finish of your blade don't do that
I take pictures too. I find it very helpful for saving time doing touch-ups. I also am sure to include the sharpening angle it's set to in the picture to get the most exact set-up.
Not for nothing, but maybe you were referencing the “$64,000 Question”, a old timey game show where contestants were placed in a soundproof booth. Google $64,000 Question for more.
I really like the sawing motion for reprofiling/establishing an edge since it's a heck of a lot faster. I also use lapping films down to .5 micron though, and give 'em a few on a leather strop. My BESS tests usually come out to 110-150. Good to see that it puts a bit of tooth to the edge. It really helps when going through fibrous stuff like cardboard and rope.
Dead on Jerry! Here in Texas, I do a lot of work on the property. No Girley boy twine in the mix. Hell, I don't ever know what twine is unless it's a northern work for string, lol. I have to cut limbs out of fences, dress game, cut rope, leather, cutting pull ties, you name it. A smooth ultra edge with no teeth is useless. It may push cut and show better on this type of tester that shows a push cut only, but such an edge is useless here for anything other than shaving in the morning. That is reserved for straight razors. ;
Edge leading, spine to edge scratch pattern. Pull strokes can refine maxamet. X strokes regrind and reduce burr. If you’re not contacting the edge, the pattern doesn’t matter. Sweeping strokes maximize draw cutting, but make push cutting a nightmare. This is incredibly nuanced gentlemen. The best overall for me is perpendicular to the edge scratches. 12 degree back bevel, 17-20 degree microbevel.
Would love to see you guys do this test again with the Elite with the finer stones and stropping , while using not necessarily 4 different sharpeners but 4 different clamps so it would be more consistent !? This would really appease my OCD and I really want to see how sharp you can get them lol oh and do at least 3 different places on the blade for the sharpness test !! JMO
Always finish by stroking into the blade will take most of the burr off, but pulling leaves more burr. Try it on a grinder, away leaves a huge burr, but into it hardly leaves a burr at all. I always finish with longer sweeping strokes into the edge. I've been doing this by hand for 50 years, I've got it perfected pretty well. Because I'm doing it by hand it leaves a slightly convex edge. Edit; btw scalpels are sharpened to 600-800 grit.
Thank you so much for all this work ! I think the spoiler in this is the re clamping. So easy to be off 1-2 degrees. Yes clearly ending with stroping will help greatly to insure no wire edge left on the blades.
The BESS test measures sharpness for push cuts but which knife is the best slicer? I would think a toothy edge makes for good slicing and I've started putting that on all my working knives.
After watching closely it amazes me how the angle changes when you apply pressure to the knife with each stroke. I guess a very sturdy stand would change that
I'm right-handed, and I find I push left and pull right. Every 180° flip is done the same way. Thanks, y'all, for the information on my new toy. The Work Sharp Elite is a sharp product. Bladie Mae is pleased, too.🎶🇨🇱
I found that using my WS PA gives a much more regular edge that lasts longer. Sharpening by hand gave me would give a razor sharp knife, but the bevel would be rounded and go dull quicker. Love the system. Thanks guys for the video. In the end everyone will take what they want, adapt it and use it according to their. needs!
After watching this and the follow up video I decided to give the push method a go. I only used the saw method before. Without a doubt I noticed a massive difference with the push method. It took less time for a good edge and it was razor sharp.
When you use the push method, how far do you move the stone over after a swipe? For example, after your first push, does your second stroke overlap the first?
Great video! I use saw to profile get rolls and chips. I push is a sweeping motion after the bevel is established. Last two stones are ceramic and I straight push. Then strop on white paste then straight leather. I learned some interesting things watching your video. I use a very similar guided system on my premium steel knives. Free hand my bigger fixed blades. Thanks for the interesting content.
Fantastic video. I learned a lot and love my Worksharp Precision Adjust!!!! My question is, which method wears down your stones quicker? I want sharp knives but not at the cost of burning through my stones.
The sawing motion would wear the stones fastest. Fortunately you can replace them individually for about $8 on our website and they should last a long time before needing replacement.
I'm thinking that the reason the "push" method results in a sharper edge is likely due to the pressure on the leading edge due to the mechanics of the setup (starting from the edge pushing on an incline). Not bagging on it, as it would cost 5 times more to stiffen the rigidity and would weigh an order of magnitude more. It just means you need to gain a feel for whatever system and make adjustments along the way.
I figured push would be best. My thoughts were that it would be like woodworking , where you get cleaner cuts when theres material backimg up the edge you’re cutting. When theres nothing behind a board (like a sacrificial piece, or the wood of your fence/sled, you get blowout. When your sharpening with the push method, the metal of the knife is supporting the metal thats being cut (sharpened)… hope that makes sense… but thats my hypothesis
Nicely done guys! I discussed this in my 2-year old, very amateur, UA-cam video, using several of my angle-controlled sharpening systems, including my PRECISION ADJUST KNIFE SHARPENER - ELITE™ SUBQUENTLY, life got really busy, and I didn't post my followup. I found was using the "sawing" motion was OK with profiling and repair, followed by using the push method, finishing with "Pull Motion" stropping, consistently produced the sharpest edges with some noticeable decrease in time required. Try it and see if it works for you. Lastly, I've experimented with the "Swirl Pattern" on my larger sharpening system, using 6" stones. Its results seem comparable with the push method be yields a mirror finish without the cutting streaks, pitting, etc. I demo the Swirl Mode on my video. Stay Sharp. BTW, these days I'm a Ken Onion System fan for profiling and repair, followed by the PROFESSIONAL PRECISION ADJUST™KNIFE SHARPENER for the final edge. Your milage is guaranteed to vary.
When using mine I use the sawing at lower grits on edges that need work or reprofiling and need to move metal quick. Once I get to my higher grit rod (the one that’s 600, 800 and ceramic) I switch over to the push only. Then I always finish on my strop.
It looks like the knife mount bends down when you apply some force, does the whole thing bend so that the angle stays the same or just the clamp? Then the angle would change
I have changed from push to pull after purchasing and using high end Japanese cutlery. I'm my attempt to keep it sharp I studied their techniques. They are masters of the blade.
I've been using the sawing motion on my daily carry ad 15 it comes out almost mirror finished and hair popping sharp . You guys knocked it out of the park with the precision adjust. Hands down the best sharping system on the market at it's price point and it punches much higher and it on par with some much more pricey systems
The blade bounce is very noticeable in the videos. Early in every stroke the stone will work the point and as the stroke continues the angle flattens out producing a slightly convex bevel. Would this be significant, beneficial or detrimental? I don’t know.
I use my hand/ fingers (normally placed on the base) to cradle under the blade with my wrist resting on the base when I sharpen. You can stabilize the knife better this way. I bought some adhesive backed 220 grit sandpaper and attach it to the ceramic side for use with damaged edges with steel like S35VN. I can get sharp results very quickly like this. For the money, I usually always strop after sharpening. I cannot recommend this enough. One of my buddies bought this after I told him about it and he is very happy with it. Cheers!
I use back and forth to create the edge. Only push to clean the burr and most times leave it like that. Sometimes after I clean the burr I use a few pull passes for a more aggressive edge. Only pull leaves too much burr.
Look at how much the clamp arm is flexing at the 2:19 mark, it's incredible worksharp sent this system out knowing all to well about that flaw. They left it to the consumer to pick up their slack and had to 3D print clamp support pieces on our own 🤷🏽♂️ once you have one of these pieces though, it's a great system.
I have tried all 3 of the types and in the end of the day I can't tell a difference between them I can split hairs which is often sharper then I will ever actually need🤷♂️ Sometimes do I give the edge tiny teeth with some honing compound or a fine ceramic rod if I want more "bite" it all depends on what I'm going to use the knife for.
I use the same sharpener and I use the saw method when using the roughest stone. The finest grit stone that I end up with is done in a push method followed by the strop. Seems to work well.
Cut into the stone to sharpen pull away to finish/polish. First pass on the second side always pull to realign the burr then cut into the stone until the burr is gone. And pressure is the key to getting a sharp edge. Less pressure is better (for finishing) the weight of the blade is all that's needed.
16:00, I don't think it's a clamping problem, I think the sawing motion is clogging up the ceramic faster where it's no longer polishing just rubbing metal on metal
That’s why you finish each stone with a bur removal pass on each side. That’s how they teach you to sharpen with devices like this. You use the sawing method and then your last pass on each stone you do a bur removal pass where you push in toward the blade!! The sawing gets you the material movement you need as fast as possible and the bur removal pass really refines that apex. I do 400 grit with 2 passes and a bur removal pass, 600 grit with 2 passes and a bur removal pass, and then 800 grit with 2 passes and then a bur removal pass, then I do ceramic one pass per side in the push to further my apex refinement and then I do a leather strop by hand with green stropping compound. The result is usually a blade that will rival a razor in terms of sharpness.
Sawing was producing a convex profile. Which may or may not be a good or bad thing. A convex edge is going to be the most durable. But a convex edge won't be the most sharp. There's a trade off going on. Down the road a little a convex edge will be sharper than a straight bevel is.
2:18 I see the knife flexing as he applies downward pressure to the blade with the sharpening stone. Does this not reduce the effective sharpening angle by a few degrees? Should less pressure be used perhaps?
by clamping and re-clamping the knives' this is a change in the variables. But, this isn't an actual data driven test. it's a "I Wonder" test. One of the variables I take in to consideration when sharpening knives...is the angle / Degree of the bevel. The clamp and be slightly off if the angle of sharpening is as close as it can get...if the angle is off.. well, now your creating a new edge. I'm a total geek for this stuff....Great vid...has me re-thinking how I sharpen my Field dressing knives
Super concise comparrisons. I'm new to this "skill" and that being said, I was guessing the "sweep" would be the motion I'd prefer. Your pics made that clear.
I'm proud to say that I just sharpend my M390 steel blade from lionsteel TRE in the Green G-10 and I just put the best edge I've ever put on a knife I've owned. In my life.
I have been a Lansky user for many years, and I have just switched over to Work Sharp Tools. I was checking out a couple of your videos before I started to use your system. I have always used a push stroke with the Lansky and was glad that the saw method you originally showed was not the only option, and the push stroke seems to be the most effective.
I also was a Lansky user and recently bought the Work Sharp System. I am use to the push technique and before I start, wanted to research user results.
Great Video. Interesting to see blade edges through a microscope. Been sharpening knives for over 65 years and have tried nearly every system out there except the real expensive ones. Lansky is my favorite economic sharpener but I prefer the freehand method. If I can get my knives sharp enough to shave and even sometimes to split a hair; well that’s sharp enough for me. Also sometimes I don’t want a paper thin edge as it dulls too quickly on some materials. Freehand is a skill that takes some practice but once you master it freehand is faster and takes less stones. I switched to diamond and ceramic, and leather strop and never looked back.
I bought the first model but became convinced that the newer model was incredible. The Work Sharp guys were using the cheaper machine I bought several years ago and never used until a month ago when I became convinced that the newer machine with the digital gauge, easy change stones and wider stones, and the ability to easily flip the knife 180 degrees. Using lapping paper glued to the ceramic stones was a real bonus. I bought extra ceramic stones so I don't have to take the lapping paper off of the ceramic stones to change the grits of the lapping paper.
I didn't look through ALL the comments... Is there a break down of how many passes / time for each method? How long was push vs. sawing? I get the impression that the PUSH method is the most effective but was just curious how long it took to accomplish your results.
What about a pushing sweep? That's how I use the field sharpener and it seems to work. I'm looking into a precision sharpener to use on my higher end knives than the ken edition.
My father in law , a trapper in Northern Saskatchewan, used a whetstone lubricated with mink oil and moved the blade over it in a circular motion ...sort of combining all your methods. Knives he sharpened cut human hair 2 inches away from where they were being held. It hurt to even think about how sharp his knives were.
Really looks like the push is the best. It was quite a bit sharper than the others. Thanks this was helpful. After sharpening. I use 3M lapping films to produce mirror edges. 🔪🎸
Knife 2 got a wire burr from the pull method where the burr just goes back and forth. This happens when sharpening on sandpaper pulling the knife back so you don’t cut the paper. You have to lightly draw the blade across something to knock the burr off a few times then check you edge and go from there. Otherwise you’ll be chasing the burr back and forth.
A remarkable, evidence-driven evaluation. Nothing else like it on other sites. Love the microscope views with sharpness evaluation. Excellent. Only question I have is the time required for each method at each step. Like the suggestion that using the saw method might be reasonable for initial material removal and then switching to push method with subsequent stones.
Thanks! The time spent is always going to depend on what type of material the knife is made of, the size of the knife, and how picky the person doing the sharpening is 😂.
@@WorkSharpOutdoor Just wondering about ballpark number for dull 8" chef's knife. I've heard some folks describe it taking more than an hour to get to BESS
Here are the sharpness numbers from the end of this video as well as the follow-up where they used a strop. Lower is better.
#1 (Push): 176 after stones, 104 after strop
#2 (Pull): 374 after stones, 181 after strop
#3 (Sawing): 242 after stones, 191 after strop
#4 (Sweep): 298 after stones, 159 after strop
All under 200, but that #1 knife pushed/stropped at 104 is beyond sharp! wow!
I've used a sweep technique for may years, so those results didn't surprise me.
All 4 in the "scary sharp" catagory after stropping, just shows one has to go through all the steps to get a knife truly sharp.
Not all heroes wear capes!
You are awesome Mr. Younkins, thank you - couldn't find the short lol.
Very helpful. Thanks for the effort. Left a message saying they should have done this. New to the system, this was well done.
Would you say use #1 for general maintenance and #3 for reprofiling and go back to #1 after reprofiling and just never use #2
Old School Wisdom Strikes Again!
My grandpa taught me to sharpen a knife when I was very young. He said, you always sharpen like the knife cuts. He showed me the technique yall are calling a Push when I was a kid. For the last 40 years, I've sharpened my knives that way and have always been happy with the edge I got.
Thank you young men. It was fun to watch modern science prove him right, some 100+ years after he sharpened his first knife.
He was a WWII vet, and the most intelligent man I've ever known.
Bleib bei Grossvaters Rat. Was da gezeigt wird ist super ungenau.😊
@@johannestreitner9460 ? What is shown is that precisely the technique he extols is what produced the sharpest edge.
@@Adam.Rushing but it ist not!
as a guy who loved to watch my grandpa sharpening knives to nowadays sharpening my own knives, I've been dying to know these answers, I love you guys
YES! Looking at edges under a MICROSCOPE and using the sharpness tester is the way to demonstrate differences in sharpening technique. Thank you.
23 mins of knife sharpening with equipment I already own...how lucky did I get in the you tube algorithm lottery lol.
Great vids guys you taught me a lot. Ps I have always been the saw or sweep guy. Saw to take off metal quick and sweep to finish it😎
My grandfather taught me to sharpen the ax, hand saws, knives and chisels with a push strokes into the blades.
I’ve always wondered about other motions and if one was better or worse. Thank you for the video and the up-close looks at these.
I’m a sawing guy and I am absolutely more than happy with the results I get in such a short amount of time. I will be a die hard worksharp fan for life. The highest quality and most available to anyone products on the market. Keep up the amazing work worksharp.
Thank you for the support!
I think the instructions say to do the sawing method. Good to know other methods work well too
Every time I try using the saw g method, it just puts waves into the edge and is horrible. Can’t sharpen a knife with this to save my life lol
Your videos are very useful, but this series (Push vs Pull) is the has the greatest utility. By altering my approach to using saw method for reprofiling, then switching to push method for sharpening and finally stropping my sharpness increased substantially (hairs pop off my arm). Your approach using the microscope and BESS tester takes the guesswork out of “which is sharpest” and most importantly “Why”. Well done gentlemen!
Glad it was helpful! We loved doing it and we have more ideas cooking. Should be a fun way to look at sharpening under the microscope.
@@WorkSharpOutdoor👍
Got this kit a month ago. Did kitchen knives including paring knives. Love it. Wife happy. Thanks to the person who provided the summary of sharpness results. You need to to learn from him. Really pay attention. I’ll try push next time.
For the final cutting test, I'd do it 5 times on each knife at different points on the blades then average the results.
Seriously. You never take a single measurement when doing any comparison test. There are averages for a reason.
this is the most logical comment on here and seriously would've made comparisons better.
Yes, doing only one leads to the end result (conclusion): "No test!"
You will have to do enough tests per blade so you will be able to determine what the gross average is and what the out-lier-values are.
I also think that they cut the wire too fast
I was taught decades ago to sharpen a knife with the push method. It always made me wonder how good sawing is since that’s pretty much how every UA-camr I’ve watched does it, but old dog new tricks kept me from learning a whole new method. I guess it’s for the best I didn’t pick up new habits lol.
My takeaway is that you should finish every grit each side without unclamping. You need to redo this with 4 sharpeners so you don't have to ever unclamp a knife before finishing the side. The course grit will remove enough material to have full contact with the sharpened surface then finer grits will clean up the edge but for best results you need to maintain very exact contact through every grit.
Definitely, we underestimated the impact that re-clamping would have. We ended up with sharp knives, but maintaining angle and clamp position is key to consistency.
well b4 starting 1 should take care and know witch type of bladed metal there useing as diff metals have diff. outputs also it depends on the methed chu use too sharpen a blade for exsample i use a 400 & 600 grit dimond stone + im used ta freehand sharpening soo my blades norm. get done quick and easy but tats mainly becuz i use a dimond stone but for sharpness theres wike a 4 ta 6 step process but the main 3 things too know are 1st the type of metal chur blades made of 2nd the methed 1 uses and 3rd it depends on exsactly HOW sharp chu want a blade to be 😏 my blades are used for hunting soo i keep em sharp enough too just rend and clean slice threw flesh 😄 oh b4 i forget make sure to sharpen a blade even after its used even once as even simple paper cut tests can dull a blade vry quickly :/
This video is so flawed. Maybe this way works good but maybe it was the clamp…Take this video down and repost it later when you do it correctly. I love my WorkSharp and really wanted to improve my technique. This video did nothing other than waste my time
@@davidkeefe9468 what? Each time the absolute micro bevel was affected and ground. So the reclamping maybe caused a 2nd bevel but the final bevel was sharpens with each method to the ground.
@@davidkeefe9468 some comments can cause that these experimental videos will not be posted in the future.
WOW guys!!! Amazing, well done, this is easily one of the most complete and objective, no BS, and scientific knife sharpening videos I’ve seen. Even though I no longer use sharpening systems but prefer free hand whetstones, this has confirmed some things I’ve suspected for some time. In knifemaking, when hand sanding a blade, we always say one must never move to the next highest grit until all the previous grit size scratches have been removed. In the microscope view you can clearly still see some of the previous grits scratches between the higher grit finish on each step and even some scratches 2 step back. This would take longer to achieve “perfection” with no scratches of the previous grit sizes, but virtually impossible without a microscopic camera and constant monitoring, one wouldn’t be able to see it with the naked eye and probably won’t see a massive improvement in performance. Thanks, great video!
I'd like to see what they look like after they have been stroped with the green compound. That would seem to give the edge the best result for removing the burrs.
Excellent! Thank you. Love that you added the strop measurements, too.
The "sweep", when done on a water stone with a western style kitchen knife, is commonly referred to as the "Kramer" method (as in Bob Kramer) or aka the "Crescent" method, and can be highly effective when executed correctly. The "Push" method and the "Saw" method are both (yet neither at the same time) a popular Japanese sharpening method referred to as the "Push/Pull" method. When pushing (edge trailing), pressure is applied a few millimeters above the contacting edge with two fingers from the free hand (whichever hand isn't gripping the knife). On the pull stroke (edge leading), the pressure applied by the fingers is released from the edge while remaining in contact with the blade, and without lifting the edge away from the sharpening surface. Pushing with pressure raises the burr, pulling without pressure helps to roll the burr and sheer it off without forcing abrasive grit into the apex which, as you saw during your experiment, will create jagged serrations or saw toothed edge. On the opposite side of this, if pulling only, eventually a "foil" edge will occur (if stropped in the opposite direction at a sharper angle than the bevel was pulled prior to the foil edge developing, a decently sharp edge can be achieved) requiring the edge to be manually blunted or "bricked" and the sharpening process started from the beginning. UA-camrs, "An Engineer's Perspective" & "Burrfection" both have videos detailing the cause and effect of multiple sharpening methods, issues, and solutions. GL.
PS. The "transition from bevel to primary grind" is called the "shoulder". Hopefully that makes your life a little easier! lol
Sadly nobody is gonna read this book man haha 😂
@@joshmajor8662. I did
@@joshmajor8662 As did I. It was very good information.
I'm betting you're under 30 years of age.
I read this and I'm under 30 lol
Josh Major doesn't have the attention span to read for 20 seconds.
You guys just sold me on a Knife sharpener, I was looking at different ones and this video solidly sold me on this product.
We need more grits. In between 320 and 600 and between 600 and ceramic. Blotchy edges
Did you know scalpels and butchers only use 600-800 grit stones?
@@MountainFisher but I’m sure the don’t want to get mirror finished edges. Functionality or aesthetics. You can have both having more options
@@Lg_tuber I use mirror edges on my leather cutting blades and nothing else. I have guys who buy my hunting knives they are going to use who would have a fit if I put a buffed edge on it. Most people seldom really need to use their edc knives and probably slicing sheets of paper isn't one of them except to open packages or envelopes I seldom use mine.
My kitchen knives on the other hand get used, a nice quick stropped 800 grit edge does any job you need including popping hair off your arm. That's just for show, I can shave arm hair with 600 grit stropped lightly. I used to have a summer job just sharpening knives and scalpels, some by hand in the 70s. Been sharpening ever since.
they heard you and came out with the elite kit. go check it out
I just bought that system with the help of watching your videos. I was able to get a knife extremely sharp the first day. I’m a total beginner, and it was super easy to use.
Excellent! I'm 77 y o and a long time sharpener. I learned several things viewing your approach in this video. Much obliged! I would really like to see some results following stropping when you get to that stage.
On my system, which I progress through at least 6 stones, I use the saw technique for profiling and the next lowest grit. I then use the sweeping technique for the rest all the way up to ceramics. I find you get a mirror edge far faster and nicer, with the sweep on your highest grits.
I will now used the sawing technique on the profiling stage, the pulling technique on the sharpening stage, and pushing technique on the final stages. Ty
After a burr has developed and you flip the knife, I think it is important to do an initial pull stroke before "sawing". In my experience this prevents the burr from folding over or breaking off prematurely.
Just bought one of these and I've been having fun, what I find works well is the sawing motion for reshaping the edge up to 400 grit and then switch to upwards sweep motion with 600+ to polish, been getting nice razor sharp results.
For those of us with similar OCD about sharpening knives, there's yet another issue beyond the measureable sharpness shown on a static sharpness tester: how well does it cut?
I believe that most cuts - with food, in particular - are not done along a line perpendicular to the line of the blade edge, but rather in a slicing motion that moves the blade both through and across the material being cut - whether tomato or meat; i.e., a little "sawing" motion. It's not clear to me whether or not in THAT case, it's more important to have a slight "serration" (at the microscope level) on the blade rather than a perfectly linear, flaw-free edge.
To see a glass-like, perfectly polished, flawless edge is satisfying, yes; and does such an edge cut through a sharpness tester better than any other?: Quite possibly. But does it cut as effectively as an edge with a little bit of irregularity along the apex, such that the cutting force is concentrated on the "peaks" of the irregularity, multiplying the force per unit area along that peak? I started out confessing to OCD; you now see why.
The reason I question this is that it's too easy to get obsessed with the cosmetic perfection of the edge rather than the reason we are sharpening in the first place, which is to sharpen in order to CUT. Both visual observation and testing with a sharpness tester are biased towards the cosmetics or the angular perfection of the blade's apex. But if you are slicing, it could be the effect of the force exerted by the knife edge in the slicing motion that determines its effectiveness in use.
In fact, I suspect that - at a far more "macro" level - the reason for the existence of serrated blades is exactly that: concentration of force at a point, rather than along a linear edge. I don't know how you test that, however, other than subjectively in use.
Very interesting video, and the microscopic views were very interesting and informative. Thanks for the info!
When you are sharpening a larger blade, like a kitchen knife, won't the angle change as your stone moves away from perpendicular to the machine? When i put my kitchen knife in, and put the angle measuring tool on it and select 15 degrees, if i then put the stone all the way out to the tip, the angle on the measuring tool reads 13 degrees.
Enjoyed this. Very informative. Three generations of pushing, to sharpen. I bought this sharpener 3 weeks ago and like it a lot. Very stable. I use the sweeping method to keep from eating too much material and to keep the edge centered. For me it is a game changer from a stone. I have been told a burr has to be made to sharpen a blade. I am still foggy on what a burr looks like. I have sharpened, from pocket knives to camping knives, all have a great edge. I will use the push method next round of sharpening. Thanks for the video. Keep them coming.
Happy to help! A burr is hard to see with the naked eye which is why we recommend feeling for it. For a great visual representation, check out @outdoors55. His camera setup is next level when it comes to sharpening up close.
I've found for me, doing the sweep hilt to tip gives me the best results. Nice smooth and polished edge.
Thank you for making [IMHO] the definitive sharpening system "Technique" video.
The aftermarket vice support is the best thing for consistency because the vice block moves the harder you push.
I use a combination of techniques here, push and sweep to the tip then pull and sweep away from the tip thru all grits and it really seems to give a nice polished edge even before I strop.
Thank you 🙏 I know this is several years later but I just received my
work sharp system and this absolutely 💯 helped me. I’m using the push method and it’s absolutely amazing. So thank you guys !!!!! 👍❤️🙏
Push it is than. Thanks for the info, I had been using the saw method
@E S no its always push
Especially with finer abrasives, I like to push-sweep in alternating sweep directions. Wonder what that looks like? It sure does polish nice.
The results and video of the knife motion make me think the push works best with the clamp. The clamp is very stable but the saw action seems to move the blade the most. I will probably push to finish knives now. The saw action could still be used to reprofile before switching to push only. Love this sharpener and haven't had a bad result yet.
Might be worth trying saw for profiling, sweep re-establish a super smooth edge, then push to finish.
This has always been the $65,000 question since aided sharpening systems have evolved and I was glued to the video from start to finish. It certainly answered a few of the majors, but it also certainly raised a few more minors, most of which have been addressed in some of the comments here. It would’ve been very interesting to see if stropping would’ve made a big difference right at the end to satisfy most of the those outstanding questions, because even you guys wondered that! The fact that clamping stays firmly clamped from start to finish and on this system only rotates is a wonderful facet of this unique system but somehow don’t feel that carrying on grits without turning would make such a big a difference for me personally to note and I might get lost in the process, plus I like to personally progress both sides to the end. Very, very interesting indeed though and think that most folk gravitating to this particular video have asked the same question for years and will come out of this leaning one way or the other but wondering about a strop finish. However, I personally came out of this once again to my own mind, deciding I will continue the push and always strop at the end. I also now take photographs of the clamped blade so that I can replicate to the best of my ability the same exact clamping as the last time on a particular knife. I have so many knives, plus kitchen knives, that I have to do that because I don’t remember exactly where I clamped the blade on each. Thank you for this and now it’s back to what is the secret to the universe?
With most my knives I mark with a sharpie marker where I set the blade in the clamp and then with a dremmel tool cut 2 tiny marks on the corner of the blade so next time I have readymade reference points. Obviously if you love the finish of your blade don't do that
I take pictures too. I find it very helpful for saving time doing touch-ups. I also am sure to include the sharpening angle it's set to in the picture to get the most exact set-up.
Not for nothing, but maybe you were referencing the “$64,000 Question”, a old timey game show where contestants were placed in a soundproof booth. Google $64,000 Question for more.
Try using a little less pressure your flexxing the blade in the clamp n you can see it in the scratch pattern
I really like the sawing motion for reprofiling/establishing an edge since it's a heck of a lot faster. I also use lapping films down to .5 micron though, and give 'em a few on a leather strop. My BESS tests usually come out to 110-150. Good to see that it puts a bit of tooth to the edge. It really helps when going through fibrous stuff like cardboard and rope.
Dead on Jerry! Here in Texas, I do a lot of work on the property. No Girley boy twine in the mix. Hell, I don't ever know what twine is unless it's a northern work for string, lol. I have to cut limbs out of fences, dress game, cut rope, leather, cutting pull ties, you name it. A smooth ultra edge with no teeth is useless. It may push cut and show better on this type of tester that shows a push cut only, but such an edge is useless here for anything other than shaving in the morning. That is reserved for straight razors. ;
Edge leading, spine to edge scratch pattern. Pull strokes can refine maxamet. X strokes regrind and reduce burr. If you’re not contacting the edge, the pattern doesn’t matter. Sweeping strokes maximize draw cutting, but make push cutting a nightmare. This is incredibly nuanced gentlemen. The best overall for me is perpendicular to the edge scratches. 12 degree back bevel, 17-20 degree microbevel.
Thank you for these insights!
Would love to see you guys do this test again with the Elite with the finer stones and stropping , while using not necessarily 4 different sharpeners but 4 different clamps so it would be more consistent !? This would really appease my OCD and I really want to see how sharp you can get them lol oh and do at least 3 different places on the blade for the sharpness test !! JMO
Enjoy these videos and being able to learn/geek out on sharpening! Thanks!
Thanks for making this video guys. I’m interested to see what the results are after stropping each one.
Such a no-brainer.
@@DeadRingerMachine numerically is what i was interested in. Obviously they would become sharper.
Essentially, the sweep method is a version of stropping by hand, reproduced on an aid
Always finish by stroking into the blade will take most of the burr off, but pulling leaves more burr. Try it on a grinder, away leaves a huge burr, but into it hardly leaves a burr at all. I always finish with longer sweeping strokes into the edge. I've been doing this by hand for 50 years, I've got it perfected pretty well. Because I'm doing it by hand it leaves a slightly convex edge.
Edit; btw scalpels are sharpened to 600-800 grit.
Thank you so much for all this work ! I think the spoiler in this is the re clamping. So easy to be off 1-2 degrees. Yes clearly ending with stroping will help greatly to insure no wire edge left on the blades.
I use the back and forth method then strop.
Same here and I’ve always had great results.!👍🏻
If you switch hands it feels like someone else is sharpening your knife 🙃
@@stoneblue1795 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
😂😂😂😂
The BESS test measures sharpness for push cuts but which knife is the best slicer? I would think a toothy edge makes for good slicing and I've started putting that on all my working knives.
Angle dad always wants a chisel angle profile,me I like all kinds for different blade types,his chisel edge really seems to work for WORK
Although not to keen on the system itself , the test and diligent evaluation was well worth the watch …👍🏻
I've been using the "saw" method but may start using the first one yall used next time I sharpen my knife
I have been doing the sawing method to get the profile I want, and finishing each grit with the pushing method.
Glad I saw this. I heard a long time ago that push was for a work knife and pull was for cutting meat
After watching closely it amazes me how the angle changes when you apply pressure to the knife with each stroke. I guess a very sturdy stand would change that
Some guys are 3d printing pieces to fix that flaw some videos on here or check eBay after market parts for the system cheers
I'm right-handed, and I find I push left and pull right. Every 180° flip is done the same way. Thanks, y'all, for the information on my new toy. The Work Sharp Elite is a sharp product. Bladie Mae is pleased, too.🎶🇨🇱
I found that using my WS PA gives a much more regular edge that lasts longer. Sharpening by hand gave me would give a razor sharp knife, but the bevel would be rounded and go dull quicker. Love the system. Thanks guys for the video. In the end everyone will take what they want, adapt it and use it according to their. needs!
After watching this and the follow up video I decided to give the push method a go. I only used the saw method before. Without a doubt I noticed a massive difference with the push method. It took less time for a good edge and it was razor sharp.
When you use the push method, how far do you move the stone over after a swipe? For example, after your first push, does your second stroke overlap the first?
Did you ever get that short done after the stropping?
Love this deeper dive into the topic. Never heard anyone cover this, great video!
Great video! I use saw to profile get rolls and chips. I push is a sweeping motion after the bevel is established. Last two stones are ceramic and I straight push. Then strop on white paste then straight leather.
I learned some interesting things watching your video. I use a very similar guided system on my premium steel knives. Free hand my bigger fixed blades.
Thanks for the interesting content.
Wish yall sold the replacement tri-stone. Have to buy the whole upgrade kit again.
Check with our customer service to be sure on that. Send them a email at info@worksharptools.com
Fantastic video. I learned a lot and love my Worksharp Precision Adjust!!!! My question is, which method wears down your stones quicker? I want sharp knives but not at the cost of burning through my stones.
The sawing motion would wear the stones fastest. Fortunately you can replace them individually for about $8 on our website and they should last a long time before needing replacement.
how well does this do on kitchen knives, chef knives, boning, and cleavers
I just got one of these, and i tend to make “circles/ovals” when i sharpen along the blade. Its faster and works better for me!
I'm thinking that the reason the "push" method results in a sharper edge is likely due to the pressure on the leading edge due to the mechanics of the setup (starting from the edge pushing on an incline). Not bagging on it, as it would cost 5 times more to stiffen the rigidity and would weigh an order of magnitude more. It just means you need to gain a feel for whatever system and make adjustments along the way.
I figured push would be best. My thoughts were that it would be like woodworking , where you get cleaner cuts when theres material backimg up the edge you’re cutting. When theres nothing behind a board (like a sacrificial piece, or the wood of your fence/sled, you get blowout.
When your sharpening with the push method, the metal of the knife is supporting the metal thats being cut (sharpened)… hope that makes sense… but thats my hypothesis
Nicely done guys! I discussed this in my 2-year old, very amateur, UA-cam video, using several of my angle-controlled sharpening systems, including my PRECISION ADJUST KNIFE SHARPENER - ELITE™ SUBQUENTLY, life got really busy, and I didn't post my followup. I found was using the "sawing" motion was OK with profiling and repair, followed by using the push method, finishing with "Pull Motion" stropping, consistently produced the sharpest edges with some noticeable decrease in time required. Try it and see if it works for you. Lastly, I've experimented with the "Swirl Pattern" on my larger sharpening system, using 6" stones. Its results seem comparable with the push method be yields a mirror finish without the cutting streaks, pitting, etc. I demo the Swirl Mode on my video. Stay Sharp. BTW, these days I'm a Ken Onion System fan for profiling and repair, followed by the PROFESSIONAL PRECISION ADJUST™KNIFE SHARPENER for the final edge. Your milage is guaranteed to vary.
When using mine I use the sawing at lower grits on edges that need work or reprofiling and need to move metal quick. Once I get to my higher grit rod (the one that’s 600, 800 and ceramic) I switch over to the push only. Then I always finish on my strop.
It looks like the knife mount bends down when you apply some force, does the whole thing bend so that the angle stays the same or just the clamp? Then the angle would change
Absolutely does on my heavier knives. My Kabar for example makes the mount sag.
I have changed from push to pull after purchasing and using high end Japanese cutlery. I'm my attempt to keep it sharp I studied their techniques. They are masters of the blade.
I think you'd get better results if you stabalize the clamp while sharpening. Try to minimize the up and down motion. I expected better results.
This may be the main reason that the push method worked the best. The clamp position is the most consistent for each stroke.
I've been using the sawing motion on my daily carry ad 15 it comes out almost mirror finished and hair popping sharp . You guys knocked it out of the park with the precision adjust. Hands down the best sharping system on the market at it's price point and it punches much higher and it on par with some much more pricey systems
The blade bounce is very noticeable in the videos. Early in every stroke the stone will work the point and as the stroke continues the angle flattens out producing a slightly convex bevel. Would this be significant, beneficial or detrimental? I don’t know.
I use my hand/ fingers (normally placed on the base) to cradle under the blade with my wrist resting on the base when I sharpen. You can stabilize the knife better this way. I bought some adhesive backed 220 grit sandpaper and attach it to the ceramic side for use with damaged edges with steel like S35VN. I can get sharp results very quickly like this. For the money, I usually always strop after sharpening. I cannot recommend this enough. One of my buddies bought this after I told him about it and he is very happy with it.
Cheers!
I use back and forth to create the edge.
Only push to clean the burr and most times leave it like that.
Sometimes after I clean the burr I use a few pull passes for a more aggressive edge.
Only pull leaves too much burr.
Look at how much the clamp arm is flexing at the 2:19 mark, it's incredible worksharp sent this system out knowing all to well about that flaw. They left it to the consumer to pick up their slack and had to 3D print clamp support pieces on our own 🤷🏽♂️ once you have one of these pieces though, it's a great system.
I have tried all 3 of the types and in the end of the day I can't tell a difference between them I can split hairs which is often sharper then I will ever actually need🤷♂️ Sometimes do I give the edge tiny teeth with some honing compound or a fine ceramic rod if I want more "bite" it all depends on what I'm going to use the knife for.
I just bought one of these and was wondering what is the best technique. This is fabulous video thank you guys
I use the same sharpener and I use the saw method when using the roughest stone. The finest grit stone that I end up with is done in a push method followed by the strop. Seems to work well.
Cut into the stone to sharpen pull away to finish/polish. First pass on the second side always pull to realign the burr then cut into the stone until the burr is gone. And pressure is the key to getting a sharp edge. Less pressure is better (for finishing) the weight of the blade is all that's needed.
16:00, I don't think it's a clamping problem, I think the sawing motion is clogging up the ceramic faster where it's no longer polishing just rubbing metal on metal
That’s why you finish each stone with a bur removal pass on each side. That’s how they teach you to sharpen with devices like this. You use the sawing method and then your last pass on each stone you do a bur removal pass where you push in toward the blade!! The sawing gets you the material movement you need as fast as possible and the bur removal pass really refines that apex. I do 400 grit with 2 passes and a bur removal pass, 600 grit with 2 passes and a bur removal pass, and then 800 grit with 2 passes and then a bur removal pass, then I do ceramic one pass per side in the push to further my apex refinement and then I do a leather strop by hand with green stropping compound. The result is usually a blade that will rival a razor in terms of sharpness.
Sawing was producing a convex profile. Which may or may not be a good or bad thing. A convex edge is going to be the most durable. But a convex edge won't be the most sharp. There's a trade off going on. Down the road a little a convex edge will be sharper than a straight bevel is.
2:18 I see the knife flexing as he applies downward pressure to the blade with the sharpening stone. Does this not reduce the effective sharpening angle by a few degrees? Should less pressure be used perhaps?
Could you please link to the exact model of microscope and stand you used?
I start with the waw method on the coase stone to remove material fast and then from there sweep the rest of the way
by clamping and re-clamping the knives' this is a change in the variables. But, this isn't an actual data driven test. it's a "I Wonder" test. One of the variables I take in to consideration when sharpening knives...is the angle / Degree of the bevel. The clamp and be slightly off if the angle of sharpening is as close as it can get...if the angle is off.. well, now your creating a new edge. I'm a total geek for this stuff....Great vid...has me re-thinking how I sharpen my Field dressing knives
Super concise comparrisons. I'm new to this "skill" and that being said, I was guessing the "sweep" would be the motion I'd prefer. Your pics made that clear.
Jungs, das hat mir so gut gefallen. Das war so schön für mich.
I'm proud to say that I just sharpend my M390 steel blade from lionsteel TRE in the Green G-10 and I just put the best edge I've ever put on a knife I've owned. In my life.
I have been a Lansky user for many years, and I have just switched over to Work Sharp Tools. I was checking out a couple of your videos before I started to use your system. I have always used a push stroke with the Lansky and was glad that the saw method you originally showed was not the only option, and the push stroke seems to be the most effective.
I also was a Lansky user and recently bought the Work Sharp System. I am use to the push technique and before I start, wanted to research user results.
Been using the saw technique to get a burr. After that i push until I get to the ceramic...then I sweep. Always get a razers edge.
Great Video. Interesting to see blade edges through a microscope. Been sharpening knives for over 65 years and have tried nearly every system out there except the real expensive ones. Lansky is my favorite economic sharpener but I prefer the freehand method. If I can get my knives sharp enough to shave and even sometimes to split a hair; well that’s sharp enough for me. Also sometimes I don’t want a paper thin edge as it dulls too quickly on some materials. Freehand is a skill that takes some practice but once you master it freehand is faster and takes less stones. I switched to diamond and ceramic, and leather strop and never looked back.
I would think that if you need a microscope to tell, then for all intents and purposes, it doesn't matter!
I'm old school and I use my old Norton stones, and diamond s..ceramic finish
I found for me I get a nicer edge ending each grit pushing into the blade. I use a kme but it's the same concept.
Would like for you to try my Grandads old technique, which is in a circular motion. I use it and it sharpens on wet stones pretty well.
It also doesn't help that the clamped portion flexes changing the angle while sharpening.
I bought the first model but became convinced that the newer model was incredible. The Work Sharp guys were using the cheaper machine I bought several years ago and never used until a month ago when I became convinced that the newer machine with the digital gauge, easy change stones and wider stones, and the ability to easily flip the knife 180 degrees. Using lapping paper glued to the ceramic stones was a real bonus. I bought extra ceramic stones so I don't have to take the lapping paper off of the ceramic stones to change the grits of the lapping paper.
I've been doing the sweep method. Definitely going to switch to the push! Great video and testing process. This system is great!
I didn't look through ALL the comments...
Is there a break down of how many passes / time for each method? How long was push vs. sawing? I get the impression that the PUSH method is the most effective but was just curious how long it took to accomplish your results.
What about a pushing sweep? That's how I use the field sharpener and it seems to work. I'm looking into a precision sharpener to use on my higher end knives than the ken edition.
Sir, you should tell us the magnifications being used.
My father in law , a trapper in Northern Saskatchewan, used a whetstone lubricated with mink oil and moved the blade over it in a circular motion ...sort of combining all your methods. Knives he sharpened cut human hair 2 inches away from where they were being held. It hurt to even think about how sharp his knives were.
Maybe a combo of all methods as you work up grits, saw, push, pull, and finish with sweep.
Really looks like the push is the best. It was quite a bit sharper than the others. Thanks this was helpful. After sharpening. I use 3M lapping films to produce mirror edges. 🔪🎸
Knife 2 got a wire burr from the pull method where the burr just goes back and forth. This happens when sharpening on sandpaper pulling the knife back so you don’t cut the paper. You have to lightly draw the blade across something to knock the burr off a few times then check you edge and go from there. Otherwise you’ll be chasing the burr back and forth.
A remarkable, evidence-driven evaluation. Nothing else like it on other sites. Love the microscope views with sharpness evaluation. Excellent. Only question I have is the time required for each method at each step. Like the suggestion that using the saw method might be reasonable for initial material removal and then switching to push method with subsequent stones.
Thanks! The time spent is always going to depend on what type of material the knife is made of, the size of the knife, and how picky the person doing the sharpening is 😂.
@@WorkSharpOutdoor Just wondering about ballpark number for dull 8" chef's knife. I've heard some folks describe it taking more than an hour to get to BESS