2008 4Runner Automatic Transmission Fluid Service - No Dipstick
Вставка
- Опубліковано 19 кві 2020
- An in-depth walk through of an automatic transmission fluid exchange procedure on a 2008 Toyota 4Runner with RWD. This video is primarily directed towards my 2nd year students attending an Automatic Transmissions & Transaxles class, hence why there may be some terminology the occasional viewer may not be familiar with (and lengthy video). Either way, enjoy!
Video was filmed during the first lockdown due to increasing COVID cases. - Авто та транспорт
First time I see an honest instruction of servicing a transmission. thanks a lot Tommy, I have the same 4runner I am planning to change the transmission oil myself but I was hesitated. Now after I saw your video I'm confident to do so. I really appreciate your video.
Glad to be able to help.
@@TimmaethBoy I have done the changes fluid and filter. I put 4 letters WS by toyota. 4 letters is it a lot?
That sounds about right for dropping the pan. Just set the fluid level afterwards and you should be good to go.
Great video! I just changed the torque converter and flushed my cooler on my 2008. This video is great explaining how to ensure its filled properly.
Glad you enjoyed it and that it helped you service your vehicle.
Love how informative this video is. Keep this up. Then if you don't mind make a shorter 5-10 minute version of just the process clipped from this 50 minute video.
Very well said and done. Answered all my questions.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it.
Very in depth and clear, helped me a lot, glad I found your channel, great video 😅
Glad you enjoyed it.
Best video on this out there.
Appreciate it Joseph.
Just purchased a 2008 V6 4Runner and this is by far the best explanation of the sealed transmission on that model. Very good work, sir! I wish I could bring my 4Runner to you to do a drain and fill. Got 160k and don't know its service history. Rides amazing but I want to see the color of the fluid. Very good video!!
Thanks for the kind words Eric.
Awesome instruction.
Actually another way provided you have no leaks us drain and refill with the same amount removed. But this procedure you did is SOP. Thanks nice job. 😊😊😊
I didn't have to ask a single question after this video was done with now all of this made sense cuz I had no idea what a sealed transmission was about
Glad you enjoyed it!
Best video I have seen on this subject. I was wondering, did you go through all of the gears before checking level? Also, I had a shop do this and I am pretty sure they didn't replace the crush washer as the check bolt is slow leaking. Do you thin I could pull it, add a crush washer and replace it without too much fluid leaking?
Thanks Joe. I thought I had mentioned that in the video, but I guess I forgot to. Yes, it's a good idea to cycle through the gears to ensure fluid is dispersed throughout the transmission prior to setting the final level, but put it back in P or N to resume the procedure. This is also true if you're servicing a conventional automatic transmission with a dipstick. Just make sure there's actually an adequate amount of fluid prior to shifting through the gears.
If you're talking about the overflow plug leaking, then you can get away with removing it when the transmission is cold and vehicle on a level service; the fluid hasn't had time to expand from heat so you really shouldn't have much leak out - only whatever is in the overflow tube which isn't much. Make sure you have the engine running during this, otherwise you're going to lose a lot of fluid as it isn't being circulated throughout the transmission, torque converter, etc. You do have to be relatively quick during this process to ensure the fluid doesn't heat up too much and start draining out of the overflow tube. If it's the drain plug that's leaking and not the overflow, buy some extra quarts of fluid at that point if you decide to fix that leak.
Also, I've seen a lot of people overtighten and deform the threads on the bolt. If that's the case, you need to replace the bolt as well.
Hope that helps.
@@TimmaethBoy yes, thanks. Also, I hooked up my obd 2 and it doesn't give me a trans temp reading. Looks like I will need to upgrade. Got any suggestions on an ok reader? I have an innova 3040e and it looks like on the innova website the only reader that give trans temp is a 7111 and I can't find it on Amazon or ebay
@@joebied1 You technically don't need a scanner to set the fluid level on these vehicles. All you need is a jumper wire and to connect terminals 4 and 13 of the OBD-II connector together - I'd recommend backprobing to avoid spreading the female terminals by accident - while monitoring what the transmission oil temperature light is doing. Below is a bit more information about this method via the repair manual, but verify the fluid temperature spec for your vehicle isn't different:
(b) When not using the Techstream (using indicator light):
(1) Using SST, connect terminals 13 (TC) and 4 (CG) of the DLC3.
SST: 09843-18040
(2) Start the engine.
NOTICE:
Check that electrical systems such as the air conditioning system, audio system and lighting system are off.
HINT:
Indicator lights of the meter blink to output DTCs when terminals TC and CG are connected.
(c) Slowly move the shift lever from P to L, and then return the shift lever to P.
HINT:
Slowly move the shift lever to circulate the fluid through each part of the transmission.
(d) Move the shift lever to D, and quickly move back and forth between N and D (once within 1.5 seconds) for at least 6 seconds. This will activate the fluid temperature detection mode.
Standard condition:
A/T OIL TEMP warning light remains illuminated for 2 seconds and then turns off.
(e) When using the Techstream:
(1) Return the shift lever to P and press OFF on the Active Test display.
(f) When not using the Techstream:
(1) Return the shift lever to P and disconnect terminals 13 (TC) and 4 (CG).
(g) Allow the engine to idle until the fluid temperature reaches 36 to 46°C (97 to 115°F).
(h) The A/T OIL TEMP warning light will come on again when the fluid temperature reaches 36°C (97°F) and will blink when it exceeds 46°C (115°F).
NOTICE:
Perform the fluid level inspection while the indicator light is on.
6. FLUID LEVEL CHECK
NOTICE:
The fluid temperature must be between 36°C (97°F) and 46°C (115°F) to accurately check the fluid level.
@@joebied1 I purchased a "scangauge 2" on Amazon! Its reads my ATF temp for my 2013 4runner. Toyota is pretty picky about ATF temp readers and this scangauge works.
Just search on Amazon under "scangauge ll " its about 160 + tax and worth it! It also read alot of other things for the cars! Hope this helps!
Question? Before checking operating temperature with scanner? wouldn’t you have to shift gears before draining for level?
Best honest video. Great video.
Yes. I believe I mention it in the video as well. You need to make sure you have enough fluid in the transmission before shifting through the gears; i.e., don't have the fluid level be too low and starve the transmission of fluid.
@d.g.9606 addressed one good question. 2 more clarifications:
1. Confirming this does a COMPLETE transmission flush, not just pan and residual?
2. Why use the line and not the drain plug?
Thx.
Been watching many videos on this subject in preparation of doing this job. I appreciate the level of detail you went into. This is an incredible video! One concern I have is I do not know the prior fluid service history of my 4Runner. All I can say about the transmission is that it seems buttery smooth and the vehicle is at 83,000 miles. If a previous owner put in aftermarket ATF, and I add ATF-WS, which is what the manual requires, would the mixture be bad for the transmission? I've heard some mechanics say yes, and others no. I've considered a flush but realize that I'm already over the mileage where it would be considered safe, so I guess the possibility of ATF fluids getting mixed with aftermarket is still safer then performing a full flush. What is your opinion? Thank you.
All depends on what they've put in the transmission. If it's compatible with the transmission and you are simply adding additional WS fluid on top of it? Then no biggy.
I usually don't assume that people have taken care of their vehicles when I work on them, but I've been surprised. If you're really paranoid, you can always flush out the fluid and start from scratch. I wouldn't consider a flush harmful for your transmission. The only time I'm concerned about that is if it's a very high mileage vehicle where the fluid has never been changed.
excellent information, it is very helpful, thank you. Excuse me, could you share the information from the scanner that you are using to evaluate the transmission of this truck. I have a similar 4runner and I would like to apply the procedure. Thank you so much.
Is this the same procedure for a 2005?
Excellent video, very informative. One question, if you pull the overflow plug while the vehicle is cool (vehicle has been off) , that any fluid that comes out of the overflow is an indication that it was overfilled?
No. NEVER pull the overflow plug when the vehicle is off. You should only remove the overflow plug when the engine is running, vehicle in P or N, and transmission oil temperature within the specified checking range.
If you remove the overflow plug when the engine's off, a lot of the fluid that was being circulated throughout the transmission will now return to the pan increasing the level. Even if you had the fluid level set correctly, removing the plug with the engine off will cause fluid to drain out for that reason.
@@TimmaethBoy Would it be wise to just crack the check plug to ensure it does come off when engine is off, but not pull it and secure it back in place? FILL plug first, then CHECK, and finally DRAIN. This is what I was thinking because if you can't get FILL or CHECK plug off for whatever reason, then it would not be smart to drain the fluid.
@@jollytime0811 If I understand the question, you were just wanting to break the overflow plug loose first to make sure it can actually be removed? Then yes, that's perfectly fine. In fact, I do that almost all the time so I'm not in panic mode when I go to remove the overflow plug when the transmission is at operating temperature and the thing won't come loose.
Just make sure to lightly snug it before continuing with the normal drain and fill, or flush procedure.
Thanks Tommy, My brother-in-law just bought a 2008 4runner with 166K miles on it and I doubt transmission fluid was ever flushed. I'm not a real mechanic but I was a motorcycle roadracer back in 80s so that should count for something. :) Never flushed transmission fluid before and I don't have a ODBC temp reader for transmission fluid temperature. Wonder if I can rent a temperature reader from Auto Zone.
You can perform a transmission service on this vehicle without using a scanner. Check on one of my replies to Joe; I posted part of the procedure on how to do this.
www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/195074-atf-exchange-using-cooling-line.html
Here it how you do it with out a scan tool: On the ODB-II connector, use a 16-20 gauge (16, 18, or 20 gauge will work) jumper wire to connect terminals between CG (4) and TC (13)..there are more directions but that is the start.
Thanks Joe 🇺🇸
I used a carpenter bubble level under the transmission pan center of the overfilled plug to make sure it is level.
😂😂
Great instruction video and not a high dollar production company thing.
Love it!
Q- how many 2x12's did u need to make those ramps.?
Thanks!
The total stack up was 6 including the tire chock portion that prevents the vehicle from just falling off the ramps. They are also hollowed out in some places to make the weight more manageable.
You can kind of gauge the length of them from the video and figure out how many 2 x 12's you need to buy if you were wanting to recreate them - certainly not the most elegant thing I've made, but just wanted to get them made quickly.
Is there a reason you did not refill the fluid with a gravity feed funnel into the return line you disconnected for the drain, instead of using the fill on the transmission? Thanks for this great video!
It's much easier to refill the transmission through the proper fill port compared to attempting to pump the new fluid through one of the return lines. You let gravity do the work where fluid naturally drains into the pan from the fill port vs. pumping it through a relatively small tube that runs a few feet horizontally until it feeds back into the transmission; the latter part being impractical and probably very messy. Hope that makes sense.
@@TimmaethBoy Thank you for the quick reply. Really appreciate the help!
Hey, I’m planning on doing my trans fluid drain and fill and rear diff drain and fill. You mentioned to use the steel crush washers on the trans. Do you know if I need to use the crush washer or the aluminum washer on the rear diff?
I believe the crush washers used on the drain and fill plugs for the differential are aluminum.
12157-10010 for read dif and trans fill plug; 35178-30010 for trans drain and overflow
Dude, you 4runner is so clean underneath......(Coming from someone in the salt belt)
Great job with video. I just subscribed. Where do you race your bike?
Thanks. I race local tracks throughout Texas.
Is it normal for the transmission to make a sound like gears - bearings moving together... it is not loud, it is not high pitched but I just noticed it the other day when i was changing the engine oil... perhaps I am being paranoid lol
The transmission should be relatively quiet, unless you start talking shifting into reverse on a manual transmission, or dog box transmissions - both have straight cut/spur gears that whine which is considered normal; I'm pretty sure you aren't referring to that though.
What's the year, make, model, and mileage? Is it an automatic? Diagnosing anything online is incredibly difficult btw, so it's going to be speculation to some degree.
did you change the transmission fluid filter? Why not perform that service as well while you're at it?
I didn't change the filter. Based on the condition of the fluid and the way the vehicle has been operated - no real abuse or towing scenarios, full warm up cycles every time it's driven, fair weather operating conditions, etc - I didn't feel it was necessary for me to do so. I believe the filters on these use the metal mesh/strainer type, meaning you would just clean it instead of replacing it, assuming of course that it's in good shape; they can't filter to the degree a normal pleated filter type can anyway.
I had a garage change my 4th gen 4Runner SR5 (133,000 miles) - not a Toyota dealer - and now the overflow plug is weeping fluid. I don't think they used a new gasket, so I ordered a new one. Theoretically if the level is right, I should be able to remove that overflow plug when the engine is cold and nothing should come out, correct? If so, then I could add the gasket as should have been done and be done.
Yes, you are correct, BUT make sure you have the engine on and running, and vehicle in park or neutral before you pull that overflow plug to replace the gasket.
Get your tools ready to go before you start the engine up. You don't want to be scrambling to find everything while the transmission fluid is heating up and possibly having the temperature climb above the inspection range. As long as the engine has been cold for some time, you should be good with regards to temperature.
@@TimmaethBoy OK, thanks. Will do. I
appreciate your advice and of course the excellent video.
You're welcome.
I'm curious where the 97-115 degree Fahrenheit temperature range came from? Looking at the Toyota Service Manual it states 115-130 degrees Fahrenheit to accurately check the fluid level.
Not for this year model/body style 4Runner. Both the A750E and A750F transmissions call for inspecting the fluid level between 97-115*F.
@@TimmaethBoy my 2007 Toyota Service Manual states 115-130 also. great video. thanks.
Good luck 👍
If I dont have a scan tool... would an IR thermometer work well enough to determin approx fluid temp level? Meaning if I shoot the IR thermometer at the pan in 2-3 locations and its saying like 105 degrees... would that suffice? I love my 4 runner and have owned 2 so far but I think its a little ridiculous that you have to have a special scan tool to do a simple diy procedure. I have a decent scan tool with live data capabilities but A/T temp is not a sensor it can get a live feed from and I’m not buying a scanner specifically for this. Let me know!
I actually posted about this underneath Joe's comment from last year. You don't need a scanner to perform a transmission service/fluid adjustment. Although an IR thermometer would certainly be better than nothing, the procedure I listed below will ensure you set the fluid level correctly. I'll copy my response below:
"You technically don't need a scanner to set the fluid level on these vehicles. All you need is a jumper wire and to connect terminals 4 and 13 of the OBD-II connector together - I'd recommend backprobing to avoid spreading the female terminals by accident - while monitoring what the transmission oil temperature light is doing. Below is a bit more information about this method via the repair manual, but verify the fluid temperature spec for your vehicle isn't different:
(b) When not using the Techstream (using indicator light):
(1) Using SST, connect terminals 13 (TC) and 4 (CG) of the DLC3.
SST: 09843-18040
(2) Start the engine.
NOTICE:
Check that electrical systems such as the air conditioning system, audio system and lighting system are off.
HINT:
Indicator lights of the meter blink to output DTCs when terminals TC and CG are connected.
(c) Slowly move the shift lever from P to L, and then return the shift lever to P.
HINT:
Slowly move the shift lever to circulate the fluid through each part of the transmission.
(d) Move the shift lever to D, and quickly move back and forth between N and D (once within 1.5 seconds) for at least 6 seconds. This will activate the fluid temperature detection mode.
Standard condition:
A/T OIL TEMP warning light remains illuminated for 2 seconds and then turns off.
(e) When using the Techstream:
(1) Return the shift lever to P and press OFF on the Active Test display.
(f) When not using the Techstream:
(1) Return the shift lever to P and disconnect terminals 13 (TC) and 4 (CG).
(g) Allow the engine to idle until the fluid temperature reaches 36 to 46°C (97 to 115°F).
(h) The A/T OIL TEMP warning light will come on again when the fluid temperature reaches 36°C (97°F) and will blink when it exceeds 46°C (115°F).
NOTICE:
Perform the fluid level inspection while the indicator light is on.
6. FLUID LEVEL CHECK
NOTICE:
The fluid temperature must be between 36°C (97°F) and 46°C (115°F) to accurately check the fluid level."
Thank you for the reply man. I may just end up doing the IR method since I am not well versed in jumping wires/ back probing. I know what they are... Ill look around on here for some insight on how to do that. Sorry for not reading the further comments. Thanks dude!! You’re not in Ohio are you?? 😂
@@xlxphoenixkingxlx It's not too bad to figure out. Do an image search on Google for an OBD-II/DLC pinout. It's a standardized layout that shows you the terminal locations, names and numbers.
If you do the IR method, keep in mind that the fluid cycling within the transmission may be a few degrees hotter than what you're reading at the pan - heat has to conduct from the fluid to whatever surfaces it's exposed to; in this case the pan. Hope that makes sense.
And nope, not in Ohio. :)
So I got it figured out. I jumped the two. It was easy. I did a drain and fill last fall and thought I put back in what I took out but I just did the procedure and no fluid came out at normal operating temps😳😱 but I have been driving with it like this for a few thousand miles and no weird shifting and such. Unfortunately I am unable to correct this low level until Friday. It will be fine until then. But thank you so much for the help man!!
Keep in mind that just because you put back the exact amount that came out doesn't mean the fluid level will be correct. The reason for this is because you don't know what the fluid level was at to begin with; it may have been set incorrectly by someone else, may have been set incorrectly from the factory (less common, but can happen), or it may have a slow leak that gradually drops the level over time (you would notice this one). That's why if you use a machine to flush the transmission that you should always inspect the final fluid level; it will put in the exact amount that was taken out, but won't set the final fluid level for you.
Also if you have a tow package on there with an external cooler, make sure you depress the bypass valve when checking the final fluid level to ensure accuracy (it'll be on the right side of the transmission). When you are done setting the level, make sure to disengage that valve.
Hopefully your fluid level wasn't too low to affect anything long-term.
Hi, what area do I use a level to level the car? Are we leveling the car or the actual ATF pan? Thanks!
You just want to make sure the vehicle is on a relatively level surface. It doesn't have to be perfect - just sort of eyeball it. No need to get a laser level out for something like this. :)
@@TimmaethBoy thanks for your reply! I've seen lots of videos on UA-cam about this procedure. People are saying to make sure car is level.others saying to level the flat side of pan. The pan is slanted and the car frame is straight so I'm confused!
@@dellim3174 The engineers who design the vehicle take that into consideration. That would be silly if you had to have the pan level relative to the ground, especially considering how many different shapes/styles of oil pans are out there. Same goes for engine oil.
@@TimmaethBoy that's make a whole lot of sense! Thanks again for the reply! I level the car on the chassis and pinch weld under the doors. Both are about same level!
Is it worth the trouble to drop the pan change the filter and clean the metal out of the pan/off the magnets?
That's a good question. I think a lot of that depends on how much abuse the transmission is being subjected to. If it's just a daily driver with easy miles put on it - light load/acceleration, no extended idling times, no towing, getting engine/transmission up to operating temperature before shutting everything off, operating in favorable climates (no extreme hot/cold temps), etc. - then I wouldn't worry about it.
If on the other hand this vehicle is being subjected to a lot of abuse, then it may be worth going in there to inspect the magnets for any excessive metal accumulation (indicates internal transmission issues; a little bit of metal isn't a big deal; every transmission wears over time, but you shouldn't have a large accumulation or any noticeable shavings/chunks), clean the magnets, and either clean or replace the transmission strainer. I believe the strainer is a metal mesh type on this one and not a standard paper filter because they don't expect technicians to go in there and replace it; it's more of a reusable one if you will, hence why you can generally clean those. Hope this helps.
I’m at about 130k miles. Transmission was probably never serviced. It is lifted with 33” tires and do take it off road.
@@St.Hermans_Speed_Shop Certainly wouldn't hurt to remove the pan in your case. Make sure you get a new pan gasket as well.
Question: The fluid that was already in the tub sitting at 2 gallons, was that fluid from opening the drain plug?? Because if thats the case you flush an additional 2 gallons from the hose. So your total fluid sits at 4 gallons. Yet later in the video you say you replaced the 2 gallons you removed......... wouldn't it be 4? Did I miss something?
The container I used for measuring how much fluid came out of the transmission is where I store my used oils. The oil at the 2 gallon mark was from other services done / not related to the transmission service shown in the video.
Is there a way to do it without the scanner? Or a cheap alternative for the scanner?
No scanner required. I've posted about it already in a few of the comments below. I'll copy one of my responses for how to do so:
"You technically don't need a scanner to set the fluid level on these vehicles. All you need is a jumper wire and to connect terminals 4 and 13 of the OBD-II connector together - I'd recommend backprobing to avoid spreading the female terminals by accident - while monitoring what the transmission oil temperature light is doing. Below is a bit more information about this method via the repair manual, but verify the fluid temperature spec for your vehicle isn't different:
(b) When not using the Techstream (using indicator light):
(1) Using SST, connect terminals 13 (TC) and 4 (CG) of the DLC3.
SST: 09843-18040
(2) Start the engine.
NOTICE:
Check that electrical systems such as the air conditioning system, audio system and lighting system are off.
HINT:
Indicator lights of the meter blink to output DTCs when terminals TC and CG are connected.
(c) Slowly move the shift lever from P to L, and then return the shift lever to P.
HINT:
Slowly move the shift lever to circulate the fluid through each part of the transmission.
(d) Move the shift lever to D, and quickly move back and forth between N and D (once within 1.5 seconds) for at least 6 seconds. This will activate the fluid temperature detection mode.
Standard condition:
A/T OIL TEMP warning light remains illuminated for 2 seconds and then turns off.
(e) When using the Techstream:
(1) Return the shift lever to P and press OFF on the Active Test display.
(f) When not using the Techstream:
(1) Return the shift lever to P and disconnect terminals 13 (TC) and 4 (CG).
(g) Allow the engine to idle until the fluid temperature reaches 36 to 46°C (97 to 115°F).
(h) The A/T OIL TEMP warning light will come on again when the fluid temperature reaches 36°C (97°F) and will blink when it exceeds 46°C (115°F).
NOTICE:
Perform the fluid level inspection while the indicator light is on.
6. FLUID LEVEL CHECK
NOTICE:
The fluid temperature must be between 36°C (97°F) and 46°C (115°F) to accurately check the fluid level."
How to put gear oil to 4runner
So question. If you pull the Allen key check plug on the transmission to do your finally fluid level check. But if you pull it out when the transmission is cold. Should there really not be much fluid coming out? Because I unscrewed it about half way to see what the color of the fluid looked like and it came gushing out while the tranny was cold. Does that sound like the tranny was over serviced by the person that did it previously?
Hopefully you didn't do this when the engine was off. If you pulled the overflow plug while the engine was running, transmission cold, thermostat bypass valve on, vehicle is level, etc. etc., then you're correct; there shouldn't be much fluid, if any at all coming out of the overflow plug until it reaches the correct fluid level inspection temperature. If it came gushing out while the engine was running, then more than likely they overfilled your transmission.
@@TimmaethBoy yeah it was while it was off. I didn't take it all the way out, just half way before it tried to squirt out. And a little came out but not much. It just seemed like it was going to be a lot haha. But yeah I took a infrared laser temp gun and pointed it at the trans pan till it was at the operating temp since I don't have a scan tool. While it was running then pulled the check plug out and it trickled out so it's at a good level. Thanks for taking the time to answer though. Makes since why alot tried to come out because it wasnt running, that was my bad haha
@@davidlavery8336 Luckily you caught your mistake before anything bad happened. :)
IR gun works in a pinch for checking the temperature. Sounds like you got the fluid level figured out and set properly. All the best!
Is this the same for 4WD? And do I need to drain the old factory transmission fluid out or can I add more factory to it?
Should be a similar process for 4WD, but I would verify what temperature range they want you to inspect the fluid at.
Hmmm…For the final level check you should pull the check plug let it drain to level, or add until it starts seeping out, then crank the car and let the oil heat up. We know at that point that it can only expand so you let he car run until it hits the temp range and any excess has drained due to expansion from heating and then insert the plug in the middle of the temp range. You had about a quart too much in the transmission. If you had used the above procedure, you would have only lost a couple of ounces at most. Still a great video!
Incorrect, but appreciate the feedback.
Better contact Toyota and tell them you have a better method than there engineers!
😎👍
I might've missed it but does the car have to be on a level surface when adding tranny fluid?
Yes.
Why didn't you choose to change the filter?
That's a good question. Based on the condition of the fluid and the way the vehicle has been operated - no real abuse or towing scenarios, full warm up cycles every time it's driven, fair weather operating conditions, etc - I didn't feel it was entirely necessary.
If the condition of the fluid is questionable and you know the vehicle hasn't been exactly driven gently, then it would probably be worth it to drop the pan, inspect the pan magnets for excessive metal accumulation, and clean/change the filter. If it's a paper filter, replace it. If it's a screen/mesh filter, clean it.
@@TimmaethBoy Thanks for the info, and the quick reply. 👍
Hola amigo espero que veas mi comentario y me respondas cómo puedo verificar la temperatura de 97 y 115
Hola. El procedimiento se enumera a continuación. Espero que tenga sentido. Que tengas un buen día!
(b) When not using the Techstream (using indicator light):
(1) Using SST, connect terminals 13 (TC) and 4 (CG) of the DLC3.
SST: 09843-18040
(2) Start the engine.
NOTICE:
Check that electrical systems such as the air conditioning system, audio system and lighting system are off.
HINT:
Indicator lights of the meter blink to output DTCs when terminals TC and CG are connected.
(c) Slowly move the shift lever from P to L, and then return the shift lever to P.
HINT:
Slowly move the shift lever to circulate the fluid through each part of the transmission.
(d) Move the shift lever to D, and quickly move back and forth between N and D (once within 1.5 seconds) for at least 6 seconds. This will activate the fluid temperature detection mode.
Standard condition:
A/T OIL TEMP warning light remains illuminated for 2 seconds and then turns off.
(e) When using the Techstream:
(1) Return the shift lever to P and press OFF on the Active Test display.
(f) When not using the Techstream:
(1) Return the shift lever to P and disconnect terminals 13 (TC) and 4 (CG).
(g) Allow the engine to idle until the fluid temperature reaches 36 to 46°C (97 to 115°F).
(h) The A/T OIL TEMP warning light will come on again when the fluid temperature reaches 36°C (97°F) and will blink when it exceeds 46°C (115°F).
NOTICE:
Perform the fluid level inspection while the indicator light is on.
6. FLUID LEVEL CHECK
NOTICE:
The fluid temperature must be between 36°C (97°F) and 46°C (115°F) to accurately check the fluid level.
Muchas gracias por tomar él tiempo de responder mi pregunta 👍🏼
Should pull pan new filter and gasket too.
Not necessarily. The filter is a steel mesh type and doesn't need to be replaced. Maybe cleaned, but it's so porous that any small debris passes right through compared to a conventional paper filter like the ones for your engine. I mentioned this in another comment.
Saw this and like the scan tool. The truck however needs to be level, yours doesn't appear to be.
One of the first things addressed in the video.
Great video, engineers give the FSM instructions expecting monkeys to work on the car. They over specify and expect you to mess up. If they say 100 to 115 they most likely mean 80 to 140 degrees. An ounce higher or lower of fluid should be fine.
if your just draining the pan,does it make sense if you measure the amount of drained cold transmission fluid out and then measuring same amount of new transmission of fluid pump in.that way dont have to be concenred about fluid warming ,overflow plug ,level ground and all that
@@ireneflores5341 Yes, that's the safest way if you don't have any leaks. The problem is you can't trust the previous person has done a perfect job refilling the transmission, so you may need to make sure that the level is correct, it's a very simple procedure.
@@ireneflores5341 TL's response regarding this "The problem is you can't trust the previous person has done a perfect job refilling the transmission", is why I always recommend setting the final fluid level according to the factory's recommended temp spec. You are assuming that the fluid level was set correctly prior to the drain and fill with the method you're describing which is where you can run into problems. There can even be issues where the fluid level hasn't even been set correctly from the manufacturer, although much rarer. Certainly nothing wrong with the way you want to do it, but you have to be 100% sure the fluid was set correctly.