You sir have the best walk through videos on UA-cam. Regears, fab, general info, I just want you to know and I'm sure people tell you but your info and thorough descriptions of how to do things the correct way are highly valued. I've taken note to countless methods and procedures you document to help me along my build. To that I just want to say thank you. I watch channels like dirt lifestyle, muddybeards or bleepinjeep for mostly entertainment but you're videos have real builder information. People for years will be able to come back to these videos for true information.
I really appreciate the feedback and comments! This is what keeps me moving forward with the channel and producing new content. Thank you and please share with others!
solid video! The cone is the inner race, the outer race is in the housing. the bearing(s) them selves are held with the cage. you had it right the first time. Race is the correct term for the cone
Hey Mike, another great regear video. You know man when you called that bearing "cone " a bearing race, you were actually correct on both, because it is a inner bearing race. I don't have a JL that I am planning on regearing currently, but I enjoy watching videos anyway, you are a very smart common sense kinda guy, and you always do your best with what ever you are working on and try to explain things in detail. Here is a tip for you, in the future if you want to try drilling a hole through a differential housing or engine block or something like that, and you would like to drill from the inside out for more precision, just soak some rags in oil and wrap one of them around a good magnet, then put them in the housing area where you want to drill for collecting the steel shavings. The magnet not only helps with collecting the shavings, but it also helps to hold the rags , and when you are finished, it is easy to clean everything up, including your magnets I have used this method for several projects over the years and it works quite well. Hope to see some more build and four wheeling videos from you soon in the future. Keep up the great work. Tim from Wisconsin.
Thank you so much for patiently describing every step in great detail esp the usage of cone when pressing the bearing!! A newbie like me picked up the courage to re-gear my own JL!
You mentioned a truss in this video. Have you ever found a truss install to effect the gear set up? I've always welded on the truss before a fresh install; never with a gear set that I was going to run already set up. But my current build i may weld the truss on at a different time than the gear install. What's you experience? Great video BTW!
Asking for your opinion on pattern testing. I have asked others with mixed answers. Placing pressure on the ring gear to create some resistance is a no brainer when testing the drive pattern. However! I maintain that when testing the coast pattern, the pressure should be placed on the PINION, not the ring gear. In real world situation, the wheels and hence the ring gear is the driving force when coasting. The pinion is supplying resistance through the transmission and engine. Therefore, I feel a more accurate pattern would be to supply the resistance as I described.
I hear what you are saying and agree that you can ask 10 different people and get 10 different opinions. I've tried doing this as an experiment and I wasn't able to see a distinctive difference. That doesn't mean you aren't correct, but I think the patterns will be so close that it doesn't make a big difference in the overall finished product. Just my .02
Is this the same process for a Dana 44 NON rubicon in a 2016 JK? I’m going 4:88 with arb. Just watched your Dana 30 arb install! Excellent video!! Thanks!
Thanks for the nice video. Getting ready to do my gears on the JL Rubicon. I noticed you did not measure the total torque to rotate amount in order to determine if the carrier bearing preload was within spec, do you just base this off of feel? Also, I was put under the impression by Dana that the preload numbers are based on new bearings/races and without any additional lubrication. Have you noticed a difference? Thanks
I did do a torque to rotate, must not have videoed it. When I set up gears I always add a thin layer of gear oil as to not run them dry. The torque differences change due to original bearings already being broken in and settled.
@@TheBFHGarage I did catch that but wasn't that just for the pinion? I didn't realize you had the ring gear in there already. I don't like running things dry either, which is why I thought I'd ask if it makes sense that according to Dana, the pinion torque and total torque figures are for new, non lubricated parts. Thanks for the reply
@@GevoA1 the video might only show me checking the pinion alone, I can't remember. But if you're where normal preload is, then the TTR will most likely be good too. It's interesting to check it all and see how things change though.
@@TheBFHGarage I see. Appreciate it. I'll do a check dry vs oiled and see if any significant change is noticeable to affect the final figures. Will post back then.
I don’t have a shop press and while I could buy one, I’d rather not for space reasons if I could avoid it. Would you recommend avoiding any hammer methods to press the bearings on the locker/pinion? Or is that fine?
You can put the bearing in the oven and the carrier in the freezer. Then it should slide right over with minimal effort. You can also drive it on with a pipe using a hammer.
OK new to all this UA-cam stuff and responding. Somehow double posted and I hit delete and erased everything. I have the M186 it does not have the slinger at the pinion head just the slinger at the tail shaft. By the yoke. Should I maybe try and put the original pinion shim on and move the ring gear away from the pinion even if my backlash isn’t perfect to see if it’ll turn better
First off, the flat washer thing at the yoke is a baffle, not a slinger. Next, nothing matters if you can't get backlash into spec. So if I'm understanding you correctly, with ZERO shims installed it's still too deep?
i used factor shim on pinion .048 and set my backlash correct and the pinion will spin with turning the yoke but it is not smooth. when i move the ring gear i have to use a wrench and it is super notchy and i feel every tooth. i ran pattern and it is way at the heel side. @@TheBFHGarage
i actually did get a new carrier. rubicon for 3:73 and up but move the pinion do far forward it hit the carrier and would not spin any more. I took it back out and put the stock back in because the m186 does not have a carrier split. i called dana about this and revolution also said the same thing. the yukon one i got was supposedly the exact the exact height and everything according to yukon. i just wasted money.@@TheBFHGarage
@@ashlandcustoms8122 I really doubt it. They don't make them individually where one can get screwed up. It would be a widespread problem. When you got the new carrier did you get thick cut gears or standard?
Question for my dana 35 with the nv3550 trans I’m going to re-gear to 4.56 from 3.07 with a revolution set. I need to buy carriers advice on brands for a simple open carrier? Also I either need to reuse my spider gears or replace them. On rock auto they give me 2 choices for the Dana 35 spider gears 1.560 IN and 1.625 any advice since I don’t have it apart I can’t compare anything.
Call revolution and talk to them. They will walk you through everything. If there is an option to use thick gears then that would eliminate the need to get a new carrier.
@@TheBFHGarage it’s hard to tell there is definitely a void style crack. It just looks kinda weird. Did you see the video of it? If it’s normal then I’ll just roll with it but I wanted to check first
![[UA] NAVI проти G2 Esports | Blast Premier Fall Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QWlIm4FGESQ/mqdefault.jpg)
You sir have the best walk through videos on UA-cam. Regears, fab, general info, I just want you to know and I'm sure people tell you but your info and thorough descriptions of how to do things the correct way are highly valued. I've taken note to countless methods and procedures you document to help me along my build. To that I just want to say thank you. I watch channels like dirt lifestyle, muddybeards or bleepinjeep for mostly entertainment but you're videos have real builder information. People for years will be able to come back to these videos for true information.
I really appreciate the feedback and comments! This is what keeps me moving forward with the channel and producing new content. Thank you and please share with others!
solid video! The cone is the inner race, the outer race is in the housing. the bearing(s) them selves are held with the cage. you had it right the first time. Race is the correct term for the cone
Hey Mike, another great regear video.
You know man when you called that bearing "cone " a bearing race, you were actually correct on both, because it is a inner bearing race.
I don't have a JL that I am planning on regearing currently, but I enjoy watching videos anyway, you are a very smart common sense kinda guy, and you always do your best with what ever you are working on and try to explain things in detail.
Here is a tip for you, in the future if you want to try drilling a hole through a differential housing or engine block or something like that, and you would like to drill from the inside out for more precision, just soak some rags in oil and wrap one of them around a good magnet, then put them in the housing area where you want to drill for collecting the steel shavings.
The magnet not only helps with collecting the shavings, but it also helps to hold the rags , and when you are finished, it is easy to clean everything up, including your magnets
I have used this method for several projects over the years and it works quite well.
Hope to see some more build and four wheeling videos from you soon in the future.
Keep up the great work.
Tim from Wisconsin.
Great tip! Thanks!
Thank you so much for patiently describing every step in great detail esp the usage of cone when pressing the bearing!! A newbie like me picked up the courage to re-gear my own JL!
Getting ready to re-gear my TJ soon ,excellent and very informative video!!
The convex (drive) side of the ring gear is the forward motion. Coast side (concave) is reverse.
You mentioned a truss in this video. Have you ever found a truss install to effect the gear set up? I've always welded on the truss before a fresh install; never with a gear set that I was going to run already set up. But my current build i may weld the truss on at a different time than the gear install. What's you experience?
Great video BTW!
Asking for your opinion on pattern testing. I have asked others with mixed answers. Placing pressure on the ring gear to create some resistance is a no brainer when testing the drive pattern. However! I maintain that when testing the coast pattern, the pressure should be placed on the PINION, not the ring gear. In real world situation, the wheels and hence the ring gear is the driving force when coasting. The pinion is supplying resistance through the transmission and engine. Therefore, I feel a more accurate pattern would be to supply the resistance as I described.
I hear what you are saying and agree that you can ask 10 different people and get 10 different opinions. I've tried doing this as an experiment and I wasn't able to see a distinctive difference. That doesn't mean you aren't correct, but I think the patterns will be so close that it doesn't make a big difference in the overall finished product. Just my .02
@@TheBFHGarage Agreed it wouldn't make much difference. I just tend to be a bit anal about being precise.
Is this the same process for a Dana 44 NON rubicon in a 2016 JK? I’m going 4:88 with arb. Just watched your Dana 30 arb install! Excellent video!! Thanks!
The process is relatively the same when re-gearing.
Thanks for the nice video. Getting ready to do my gears on the JL Rubicon. I noticed you did not measure the total torque to rotate amount in order to determine if the carrier bearing preload was within spec, do you just base this off of feel? Also, I was put under the impression by Dana that the preload numbers are based on new bearings/races and without any additional lubrication. Have you noticed a difference? Thanks
I did do a torque to rotate, must not have videoed it. When I set up gears I always add a thin layer of gear oil as to not run them dry. The torque differences change due to original bearings already being broken in and settled.
@@TheBFHGarage I did catch that but wasn't that just for the pinion? I didn't realize you had the ring gear in there already. I don't like running things dry either, which is why I thought I'd ask if it makes sense that according to Dana, the pinion torque and total torque figures are for new, non lubricated parts. Thanks for the reply
@@GevoA1 the video might only show me checking the pinion alone, I can't remember. But if you're where normal preload is, then the TTR will most likely be good too. It's interesting to check it all and see how things change though.
@@TheBFHGarage I see. Appreciate it. I'll do a check dry vs oiled and see if any significant change is noticeable to affect the final figures. Will post back then.
@@GevoA1 I run a light coat while setting them up, I don't wait until the end.
did they upgrade the Gear Ratio or was it just a Locker install?
Gears and locker both. Used revolution gears.
I don’t have a shop press and while I could buy one, I’d rather not for space reasons if I could avoid it. Would you recommend avoiding any hammer methods to press the bearings on the locker/pinion? Or is that fine?
You can put the bearing in the oven and the carrier in the freezer. Then it should slide right over with minimal effort. You can also drive it on with a pipe using a hammer.
Thanks, appreciate you!
OK new to all this UA-cam stuff and responding. Somehow double posted and I hit delete and erased everything.
I have the M186 it does not have the slinger at the pinion head just the slinger at the tail shaft. By the yoke.
Should I maybe try and put the original pinion shim on and move the ring gear away from the pinion even if my backlash isn’t perfect to see if it’ll turn better
First off, the flat washer thing at the yoke is a baffle, not a slinger. Next, nothing matters if you can't get backlash into spec. So if I'm understanding you correctly, with ZERO shims installed it's still too deep?
with zero shims. i cannot even tighted the nut past 10 inch pounds. the nut bottoms out@@TheBFHGarage
i used factor shim on pinion .048 and set my backlash correct and the pinion will spin with turning the yoke but it is not smooth. when i move the ring gear i have to use a wrench and it is super notchy and i feel every tooth. i ran pattern and it is way at the heel side.
@@TheBFHGarage
i actually did get a new carrier. rubicon for 3:73 and up but move the pinion do far forward it hit the carrier and would not spin any more. I took it back out and put the stock back in because the m186 does not have a carrier split. i called dana about this and revolution also said the same thing. the yukon one i got was supposedly the exact the exact height and everything according to yukon. i just wasted money.@@TheBFHGarage
@@ashlandcustoms8122 I really doubt it. They don't make them individually where one can get screwed up. It would be a widespread problem. When you got the new carrier did you get thick cut gears or standard?
Question for my dana 35 with the nv3550 trans I’m going to re-gear to 4.56 from 3.07 with a revolution set. I need to buy carriers advice on brands for a simple open carrier? Also I either need to reuse my spider gears or replace them. On rock auto they give me 2 choices for the Dana 35 spider gears 1.560 IN and 1.625 any advice since I don’t have it apart I can’t compare anything.
Call revolution and talk to them. They will walk you through everything. If there is an option to use thick gears then that would eliminate the need to get a new carrier.
Hey thanks I uploaded a short of my new carrier it looks like it’s cracked or is that just normal from production?
@@Moto_x11 it's a cast piece of metal and then machined. If you don't actually see a crack then I would say that is normal.
@@TheBFHGarage it’s hard to tell there is definitely a void style crack. It just looks kinda weird. Did you see the video of it? If it’s normal then I’ll just roll with it but I wanted to check first
@@Moto_x11 I did see it.... Looks like manufacturing. You have to look close for a crack