Ive started doing the valves on my Ducati and was really intimidated at first. But I just got the dealer service manual (which is in HTML/Web format for Ducati) read it through. Found every other bit of info on the net I could find (factory parts catalogs are more useful than I ever realized), watched videos, joined forums, watched the videos like 100 times and re-read everything at least twice more. If its only supposed to take a few hours, give yourself 2 days and take lots of breaks to read.
If it needs a valve adjustment, I would get that done before tuning the power commander to the new exhaust, it could throw things off afterwords. If you are going to flash the PC with one of the pre-built DynoJet maps, it won't matter which you do first. I really don't have any advise on the best exhaust, as everyone seems to be happy with there own choice. Search the forums and see what most people agree is the best, and go from there... Thanks for watching and commenting Casey!
@ylism - As long as they are within specs (min or max) they are fine and will not need inspected until next interval. They change adjustment very slowly (if at all) over time. In most cases, if you adjust up or down while they are within the specs, you'll push them too far the other way. The shims are sold in 0.05mm (approx .002") size increments, so take that into account. It's almost impossible to get them all the same... Thanks for viewing & commenting! - Shawn
I have hundreds of shims I’ve built up over time, many of them 1/4 size shims… in other words, 270, 272.5, 275, 277.5…etc. it helps to achieve more accurate clearances… you’ll always find the outside valves tighter than the inside valves for some reason, probably something to do with heat over time… if you’re going to remove the cams, you may as well try to adjust all the valves so that a pair of valve are opening and closing at exactly the same time… on the later model Gen 1, (2001 to 2007), they are missing the vacuum intake spigots on the two centre throttle bodies… the earlier 1999 & 2000 models have 2 vacuum intakes on each throttle body, but Suzuki in their effort to save money neglected to put them on the later Gen 1… I sometimes drill and tap the throttle body and install two new ones, so it’s a lot easier to adjust the vacuums… obviously in a shop environment it’s time consuming, but it saves a lot of time on the next time…
Excellent work friend, congratulations. I noticed that the head is very clean. Could you tell me what lubricating oil is being used in this engine? Thanks.
i have a 03 busa tht starts up pretty quick and runs...but its seems like there is a lack 0f power,,,its not musfiring or anything..but when u hit it,it just seems like there should be way more power. do think the vlave adjustmnt could do this to this bike? everyime ive adjusted valves ..it was because the bike runing rough or poping
Looking at your measurements, the valves that were out of spec were a little loose. Valves get tighter as they wear in and the first check isn't until around 14,500 miles. My question is, do you think most of them come a little loose from the factory knowing that they will tighten to spec at the first inspection? Looks like a nice shop, just curious why you checked them so early.
Good lighting is a must. and a good micrometer, always Mic. your old and new shims I have found discrepancy's on the markings on the shims so always Mic them, always reassemble valve terrene with oil and after reinstalling cam shafts and after proper torqueing the cam tower and after the cam chain tensioner is set rotate the crank shaft 4 times recheck the valves take video and still pic.'s as the job progresses FYI, and an inch pound torque wrench is needed
Thanks for the video. I plan on doing this soon. I have a question. I notice you are using the specs Intake .08- .18 and Exhaust .18-.28. I have a 05, which has this same engine, and the Clymer manual says the specs are Intake .10- .20 Exhaust .20- .30. Using the Clymer Manual all these would be just in spec, however I am sure the fine tuning wouldn't hurt. Where did you get the specs you are using?
I thought shimming my 2-valve was complicated, that looks a lot more involved. But Ducs are done twice as often. What was the tool you were using at the end? Does it show throttle butterfly calibration through vacuum pressure?
I got a question. I recently got a tune up on my busa oil change spark plug ect.he told me that by tbe way my valves were fine.is that actually something you can casually glance at or do you specifically have to take it apart
You gotta take all the things off that were off in the video. There is no possible way to check valve clearance just by glancing at it. Hell, you can't even see the valves without lifting the tank and taking the valve cover off. Then if they aren't in spec, you gotta take your journals and cams out to add or subtract shims. FYI always replace your journal bolts with brand new ones, never use the same bolts to put the journals back on. They are a special type of bolt and are good for one use only. Some people may use them a couple of times, but I never risk it.
i love it when customers bring in their bike for the full service scheduled maintenance. shows they take care of it. however I hate doing it on Honda cbr. i think every bike tech does. Yamaha and Suzuki are much easier in my opinion. Kawasaki isn't too bad as long as it's not like an 07 model. air box can be a pain. awesome video!
What's the difficulty level of this adjustment? How long did it take? Is this something I could if I needed to my Hayabusa at home if ever needed reasonably?
It's not an easy job by any means, but it's definitely doable at home... If have all the tools needed and good selection of adjustment shims on had, you could get through it in about 5 hours in a home environment... Thanks for watching and commenting!
I have an 09 and I think I need a valve adjustment BUT I want to put good pipes on and a Power Commander (which pipes I'm not sure (any advice out there?)) before the valve adjustment. Isn't that a better thing to do?
That is a beautiful bike, I like the fact that u take time to make sure all the parts are in order and covered. I caught a jackass mechanic treating my stuff like shit; ill never take my bike to a mechanic again. Trying to learn how to do a valve adjustment, looks complicated, but I will not take it to a mechanic.
If you've already taken all the time to get the engine opened up, you might as well bring them back to the middle of the spec while you're in there. There's no reason no to, and it's not like they're going to get any better in the tens of thousands of miles to come. You can use a little common sense here; valves clearances get gradually out of spec. A valve right at the max isn't going to make it to the next interval as easily as one that's in the middle.
Oh man, 16 valves with the shims UNDER the buckets?????????? Yeeeeaaaarrrrrggggghhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Must take about 2 weeks to adjust. Sometimes it is nice to have an MZ 301.
Ive started doing the valves on my Ducati and was really intimidated at first. But I just got the dealer service manual (which is in HTML/Web format for Ducati) read it through. Found every other bit of info on the net I could find (factory parts catalogs are more useful than I ever realized), watched videos, joined forums, watched the videos like 100 times and re-read everything at least twice more. If its only supposed to take a few hours, give yourself 2 days and take lots of breaks to read.
If it needs a valve adjustment, I would get that done before tuning the power commander to the new exhaust, it could throw things off afterwords. If you are going to flash the PC with one of the pre-built DynoJet maps, it won't matter which you do first. I really don't have any advise on the best exhaust, as everyone seems to be happy with there own choice. Search the forums and see what most people agree is the best, and go from there...
Thanks for watching and commenting Casey!
@ylism - As long as they are within specs (min or max) they are fine and will not need inspected until next interval. They change adjustment very slowly (if at all) over time. In most cases, if you adjust up or down while they are within the specs, you'll push them too far the other way. The shims are sold in 0.05mm (approx .002") size increments, so take that into account. It's almost impossible to get them all the same...
Thanks for viewing & commenting! - Shawn
I have hundreds of shims I’ve built up over time, many of them 1/4 size shims… in other words, 270, 272.5, 275, 277.5…etc. it helps to achieve more accurate clearances… you’ll always find the outside valves tighter than the inside valves for some reason, probably something to do with heat over time… if you’re going to remove the cams, you may as well try to adjust all the valves so that a pair of valve are opening and closing at exactly the same time… on the later model Gen 1, (2001 to 2007), they are missing the vacuum intake spigots on the two centre throttle bodies… the earlier 1999 & 2000 models have 2 vacuum intakes on each throttle body, but Suzuki in their effort to save money neglected to put them on the later Gen 1… I sometimes drill and tap the throttle body and install two new ones, so it’s a lot easier to adjust the vacuums… obviously in a shop environment it’s time consuming, but it saves a lot of time on the next time…
Excellent work friend, congratulations. I noticed that the head is very clean. Could you tell me what lubricating oil is being used in this engine? Thanks.
What's that book at the beginning? Its a Hayabusa service manual or something?
Inspect and/or adjust every 14,500 miles (24,000km) as per Suzuki's recommendation.
Thanks for viewing and commenting! - Shawn
i have a 03 busa tht starts up pretty quick and runs...but its seems like there is a lack 0f power,,,its not musfiring or anything..but when u hit it,it just seems like there should be way more power. do think the vlave adjustmnt could do this to this bike? everyime ive adjusted valves ..it was because the bike runing rough or poping
Great video I have the 06 busa my problem is full throttle bog I let off just a bit it clears up Can u give me any pointers
Looking at your measurements, the valves that were out of spec were a little loose. Valves get tighter as they wear in and the first check isn't until around 14,500 miles. My question is, do you think most of them come a little loose from the factory knowing that they will tighten to spec at the first inspection? Looks like a nice shop, just curious why you checked them so early.
Good lighting is a must. and a good micrometer, always Mic. your old and new shims I have found discrepancy's on the markings on the shims so always Mic them, always reassemble valve terrene with oil and after reinstalling cam shafts and after proper torqueing the cam tower and after the cam chain tensioner is set rotate the crank shaft 4 times recheck the valves take video and still pic.'s as the job progresses FYI, and an inch pound torque wrench is needed
the last part was throttle body balancing right? So just only need to adjust the screws?
Thanks for the video. I plan on doing this soon. I have a question. I notice you are using the specs Intake .08- .18 and Exhaust .18-.28. I have a 05, which has this same engine, and the Clymer manual says the specs are Intake .10- .20 Exhaust .20- .30. Using the Clymer Manual all these would be just in spec, however I am sure the fine tuning wouldn't hurt. Where did you get the specs you are using?
I thought shimming my 2-valve was complicated, that looks a lot more involved. But Ducs are done twice as often.
What was the tool you were using at the end? Does it show throttle butterfly calibration through vacuum pressure?
I got a question. I recently got a tune up on my busa oil change spark plug ect.he told me that by tbe way my valves were fine.is that actually something you can casually glance at or do you specifically have to take it apart
You gotta take all the things off that were off in the video. There is no possible way to check valve clearance just by glancing at it. Hell, you can't even see the valves without lifting the tank and taking the valve cover off. Then if they aren't in spec, you gotta take your journals and cams out to add or subtract shims. FYI always replace your journal bolts with brand new ones, never use the same bolts to put the journals back on. They are a special type of bolt and are good for one use only. Some people may use them a couple of times, but I never risk it.
can you show how you reset the cam timing
i love it when customers bring in their bike for the full service scheduled maintenance. shows they take care of it. however I hate doing it on Honda cbr. i think every bike tech does. Yamaha and Suzuki are much easier in my opinion. Kawasaki isn't too bad as long as it's not like an 07 model. air box can be a pain. awesome video!
What's the difficulty level of this adjustment? How long did it take? Is this something I could if I needed to my Hayabusa at home if ever needed reasonably?
It's not an easy job by any means, but it's definitely doable at home... If have all the tools needed and good selection of adjustment shims on had, you could get through it in about 5 hours in a home environment...
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Is your shop in Portland? I could use the service... Hit me up with a quote.
Hey man looks good clean extremely improtant cleanliness
Hey man where yall located
I have an 09 and I think I need a valve adjustment BUT I want to put good pipes on and a Power Commander (which pipes I'm not sure (any advice out there?)) before the valve adjustment. Isn't that a better thing to do?
Brocks
Nice clear vid thanks.
I enjoyed that.. Looks like a good shop you have too.
scott c - Thanks Scott!
I'm starting to think that the Ducati desmo system may be a Japanese design as well.
Guy is like a surgeon. Emaculate!
i would love to know how to tear these engines down and build them,good vid
That is a beautiful bike, I like the fact that u take time to make sure all the parts are in order and covered. I caught a jackass mechanic treating my stuff like shit; ill never take my bike to a mechanic again. Trying to learn how to do a valve adjustment, looks complicated, but I will not take it to a mechanic.
If you've already taken all the time to get the engine opened up, you might as well bring them back to the middle of the spec while you're in there. There's no reason no to, and it's not like they're going to get any better in the tens of thousands of miles to come. You can use a little common sense here; valves clearances get gradually out of spec. A valve right at the max isn't going to make it to the next interval as easily as one that's in the middle.
Good job.great bikes!
Super...
I don't even own a Busa and I'm panicking about doing this job.
nice work. i mast this sam in my busa
hadsu
Oh man, 16 valves with the shims UNDER the buckets??????????
Yeeeeaaaarrrrrggggghhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Must take about 2 weeks to adjust.
Sometimes it is nice to have an MZ 301.
Come do mine...... lol