@@iair-conditiontheoutsideai3076 no, that's not at all an issue. Many add hinges, and it can be opened in the event of emergency, from inside. I personally, prefer, to have bars. It makes home a LOT safer.
2:27 something that should be mentioned though also is that most screws do not have good shear strength and can snap very easily. You should make sure to choose a very strong screw because it doesn't matter how far in it goes if the screw itself is weak.
I'm a professional door reinforcer and what he says about what fails first and second and third is correct. I do some even more extreme stuff for people who require it, but a lot of those things are not exactly aesthetically pleasing but very effective. One thing I've done four people is the sleeve that goes over the door to keep it from spreading apart can be done with lag bolts instead of the little wood screws that come with it, that makes a very robust door. I take an angle grinder and cut off the excess bolts so they look a little better and don't end up sticking someone, I then put a dab of epoxy on the e and of the bolt and nut to keep the nuts from coming loose. I have also made my own giant striker plate out of that angle steel with the holes in it that is used for attaching garage door tracks. It uses a bunch of long deck screws for the striker area and then threw the front part I put some long skinny lag bolts. The lag bolts have to be slightly angled so that they hit the 2x4 framing. That is a pretty involved process because you have to hollow out the back of the door casing so you can cover up the metal and the lag bolts, plus mortis about a 2ft area on the door frame so the door doesn't hit the metal. This works really well on things like detached garages that are in a not-so-great neighborhood. Those two modifications will make a door extremely hard to kick in. One of them I did for someone ended up having a SWAT team battering ram used on it and it did not give way they did pretty much destroy the door though. SWAT got in but they got through a different door than the back door that I did the reinforcements on. You could tell by the condition of the door of that they really beat the hell out of it too. I did this to a detached garage for some lady in not completely gentrified area because they kept breaking in and stealing her son's bikes and stuff. It's been a year and nobody's breaking in now.
Thanks, very helpful. I never considered why my super-heavy door has some of those features; now I know. An elderly woman owned this condo previously and I guess she took security very seriously, thankfully.
I lived in an apartment and replaced the deadbolt with my own (it was an ASSA, highly pick resistant). Well, I still got burglarized. They kicked in the door at the deadbolt, turns out the door was just styrofoam sandwiched between 2 thin pieces of sheet metal. The kick caused the deadbolt to bend out the metal sheet, push it out of battery and the door just opened right up. The expensive deadbolt was bent up and ruined. Moral of the story: a pick-proof lock is no good if they can just huff and puff and blow the door down.
First rule of lockpicking! Check if there is an easier way to get in! Standard doors in apartment buildings are the cheapest. So kicking doors is not a hollywood myth.
I've just changed my front door. As the old one was very heavy I dismantled it for disposal. The bottom wooden panel was held in by decorative trim nailed in with 25mm nails. A stout kick could have got in....
@UA-cam DeletesMyComments in addition to that, she could buy some size 12 work boots and put them outside her door. it will look like a male lives there.
@@mickleblade I have a back door with a wooden lower panel just like that. I removed the trim and fitted a sheet of 1mm thick steel the same size as the panel, nailed into the frame right around the outside, then covered the sheet with cladding (inside the house). Anyone kicking that panel would get a shock, along with a broken bone or two.
@@rustedoutwrench I only half agree. Yes, US locks can be picked pretty easily, especially if the home owner goes with a schlage or a kwikset. But almost all burglaries start with a window smash or a kicked in door. Because of how rarely people actually secure them from physical attacks. If somebody starts out with a mule kick, theyre not liable to switch to a lock picking method, unless that home is guaranteed to have no people inside, and neighbors are not within earshot.
Make sure you use structural screws not regular wood screws because they don't have sheer strength. A regular wood screw if kicked hard enough the head would just snap off.
@@ErrantChordier He meant "shear" strength - which is resistance to being broken by a force from the side. The structural screws are stronger in this regard.
@@johnk9895 yes, I saw the typo (sheer = pure, shear = from a right angle). I meant how to tell the difference between wood screws and structural screws
@@ErrantChordier Here are the ones I use - from Home Depot. They don't specify the strength, but since they identify them for this specific use, I assume they are up to the job. Fringe Screw #10 x 4 in. Satin Nickel Phillips Flat-Head Long Hinge Screw with Oversize Threads to Secure Entry Doors (18-Pack)
I have 2 deadbolts,chain lock,chain lock with key,an 2 books on front door!Plus wedge wood 2x4 against door at all times!!My family had done this since I was a kid now I do it in my own home!!Everyone says it's way to much but it helps me feel little safer!!
A friend of mine is a firefighter. He says he can kick in most doors when they need to get access to a house fire. The lock strength isn’t a factor, the framing around the door is.
Yep. That's why the 3" screws are so important. To tag into the 2x4's behind the trim. But this still wont' make it impenetrable, just strengthens it from the default quite a bit.
I bought my house from a swat captain. He had the back door fortified but not the front door. He only had a deadbolt on the front door. I added a slider lock that prevents the door from opening more than 1" when used. Of course we also have two Dobermans who sleep at the bottom of the staircase and have full run of the house. Out front I added motion sensor lights; and in the backyard I added red spot lights to allow my Dobermans to see clearly in the dark. Yours great suggestions. Thanks.
A local news story generated plenty of paranoia from a recent rash of B&Es. Since then I installed a double keyed deadbolt, the brass plate covers, and fastened an 8th inch thick steel strip on the inside of the door frame. Total cost $75 bucks.
My second home was broken into by kicking in the side kitchen door. Took maybe 8-10 kicks, by the number of foot prints we saw on the door. After that incident, I reinforced all of my doors' jambs (amazon is a good source for materials, or local hardware store) with metal plates, installed the plate referenced in this video that is placed over the door knob, replaced the short screws (yep, they were in there) with the longer screws, and had security storm doors installed on a couple of the doors. I did everything myself (easy to do, plenty of youtube vids out there on installing) except for the storm door installation. Before the incident, I never thought that this would've happened to me.
Good video. My laundry room door to garage only had a locking knob like for a bathroom . I added a dead bolt, and a door wrap for knob and dead bolt . The strike is long enough for dead bolt and knob and I screwed in nine # 9 3" deck screws into stud . I also added two 3" deck screws into each half of each hinge ( 2 into door and 2 into studs) .
Thanks for the tips. I've made a few minor upgrades: 1. Longer screws 2. Longer strike plate 3. Added a Phalanx CIWS with six barrel gatling gun firing 20 mm depleted uranium rounds
Some points I would like to add if you don't mind. 1. The screw should be star or torx so it doesn't strip out when inserting it. 2. It should have the cut out thingie near the tip of the screw. That makes it so the screw can go in the 2x4 and whatever else without splitting and/or cracking the wood. 3. if its an exterior door e.g. front or back, then the screw should be ceramic coated or stainless steel. 4. A structural screw is always preferable when going into structure. However, most structural screws don't have a flat head so it wont sit flush with the strike plate. That means you'll probably have to use a framing screw. Something like the Simpson SDWS Framing Screws or GRK R4 framing screw. Either one of those would work well as long as you get the appropriate length. 5. The screw should have twists up at the top. About 1/4" or 1/8" from the head of the screw on the shaft of the screw. That keeps the screw from backing out. The aforementioned Simpson SDWS and GRK R4 both have that.
IMO the best advice is to always use pilot holes, almost guaranteed to not split the wood. Those self drilling screws are a gimmick for cheap softwood, they still split the wood.
@kalijasin Thank you so much for your details on the right type of threaded nail (afraid youtube will delete it if I call it a thing that rhymes w blue!) to put into a door frame to make the strike plate, etc. more secure.
I cut out parts of the frame from a foot past where the locks were located and fitted oak and teak inserts. These were glued and well screwed in using plenty of 6" long screws. The door itself had a half inch thick sheet of exterior grade plywood glued and through bolted onto its interior using steel coachbolts and wide washers. The frame where the hinges mounted was replaced in exactly the same was as described above for the lock locations and thick steel hinges were fitted using deep screws. Hinge bolts were also fitted. From the outside, the door revealed nothing about it's hardened state and after I had moved my old neighbour told me that the Police had raided the house looking for the new tenant and that it had taken over 15 minutes of multiple Officers repeatedly kicking the door. He told me that it was the lock itself (a Chubb) that had broken internally and that the door and frame were undamaged, I was especially pleased to hear this! One's front door is the first line of defence and should be treated accordingly! They can be very highly reinforced without too much outlay and the peace of mind alone is worthwhile! Whilst one doesn't have to go to the lengths that I did, virtually anything will be an improvement over standard doors and frames.
Glass makes noise when broken. It can also hurt the perp. Leaving your DNA in drops of blood is not a good idea. Merely forcing a door in is often the better choice.
@@hugolafhugolaf Breaking down a door also makes a tremendous amount of noise! DNA in the blood? Are you kidding me? I don't think the Police where I live would even respond to a home burglary let alone send some crime team out to take blood samples for DNA tests. You been watching too many crime TV shows!
@ A Chihuahua sounds like a Chihuahua, that's not going to deter anyone. Everyone knows they'll run away at any real threat, and if they don't, they are easy to punt.
I've always upgrade the screws when installing doors. The host suggested using 3-4" screws. Great. What he didn't mention is overtightning them. Easy does it. Finish with a screw driver.
I also have ran into this problem and realized this was an important tip left out!! BUT, I think most handyman types would already be aware of this :/ ... general youtubers, maybe not so much.
My door swings out so I feel fairly secure on that point ... however I have decorative glass in the middle and heavy clear 3M film on the inside so that it may shatter but not explode like normal glass ... I will beef up my bedroom door and bathroom door with some other hardware ... great tips !!
Awesome information, thank you for sharing. Growing up in the 60s my father was big on being safe to protect us so we had a solid wood across our front door .
We have had a steel entry door for decades. When I put the new door lock and deadbolt on I used three inch screws after I removed the interior wall and put additional studs on all three sides of the door. So now the framing around the steel door is over Five inches.
Installing a commerial door would be a great security upgrade. Commercila doors open outward instead of inward like residential doors and are almost impossible to kick in. And prying it outward is also much more difficult.
I’ve never seen a couple of the products you had in this video. I particularly liked the half deadbolt and the little accessory that would keep the deadbolt thumb latch from turning.Nice video…thanks for posting.
@@dystopiaisutopia first of all you clearly have no idea the pathetic materials that walls are made of these days or you wouldn't say that. Also there was a national news story about that exact thing when the housing boom was going on and they showed a 200 lb construction worker with work boots on go through the wall in less than 2 minutes. So you can take your snark and shove it where the sun don't shine
I have a double door at the front of my home. There is no 2x4 to drill extra long screws into on the striker plate. For additional security I had a contractor install what is called, storm doors in front of my entrance doors. Metal frame and tempered glass that you can remove and put in screens. But I never do that, these storm doors you can lock. That lock is in the handle of the door. Like my entry doors these are also double doors. So in the middle where the door closes it is just a slide bolt on the top and bottom on the inside of the doors that forms the anchor point. It does add to the security but there are still so many weak points that I worry about. My front entry doors look like a dark wood stain pattern, they are composite material. Really nice and classy effect, I replaced the original doors that were cheap metal clad, that would be easy to kick in. I haven't done it so far with these doors but in the past I would put double deadbolt locks on the doors. Where you needed a key to get in and a key to get out. So if someone entered the structure through a window, they couldn't walk out your front door carrying your TV so easily. I have done that with my garage door that leads into the house. There is a deadbolt on the garage side and a separate deadbolt on the house side. So you need keys to get in and keys to get out. I also secure the hinge pins on the door on the inside.
@@bradleyweiss1089 Be glad you have such freedom. Guns aren't really allowed here, it's very time consuming and expensive jumping through hoops to get licensing. And then you CANNOT use them for defense or you will find yourself in prison. The government has now recently put through legislation to confiscate firearms. They just outlawed over 1500 firearms that you must hand in within 2 years. These are not military arms but common firearms for sport shooting and hunting. Handguns have essentially been banned in many large cities and the restrictions tied to them are too numerous to list. This is gun ownership in Canada. So stiffening up your home security is a big thing here.
Thank you. I appreciate that. But as a small-business I just don't have the staff or finances to build a complete e-commerce site for all the things we talk about. I really do appreciate you looking out for small businesses 👍🏻.
We all feel so secure with our doors locked until we see this video! You did a great job of showing us how unprepared we are. The only thing I have going for me is my Pitt who lies at the front door waiting on me to come home…
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video and try to educate us on safety & security. I have just subscribed. You have great tips for people like my husband and I that are seniors and aren't tech savvy.
Another tip if the last item featured is not used: Put 3.5 inch screws into the door jamb every 6 inches for a couple of feet above and below the locks to strengthen the door jamb & make it more secure / split resistant. Drill pilot holes to prevent splitting. Install 2x4 door barricade brackets to prevent kicking in the door while you are inside the home - even in apartments. The brackets are less than $30 and available on Amazon www.amazon.com/Barricade-Brackets-Security-Apartment-Reinforcement/dp/B08R7Y3BJF/ref=mp_s_a_1_23_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=2x4+door+brace&qid=1613258847&sr=8-23-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFBMTU0U0hCRTREUVcmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwNzA5NzIxRlpXWkRLREZMVlMxJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAzNDM4OTIxN05HOFBDOE9UVDRYJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
This is great information. I always replace the screws with 3 1/2 inch for that added protection. It’s quick n fast. The other products I will definitely look into and possibly use for some more added protection. Thank you
@@techtrektrick3509 I bought new doors to replace my front and back door and the security door kits were sold at the same store. I believe I paid around $50-60. You can also buy them from Home Depot or Lowe's and you can also get the 3.5inch screws there as well. Even if you don't get the kit, changing out ALL of your screws to 3.5inch screws make them at least 20x more secure because the are secured all the way into the studs which hold the door.
@@techtrektrick3509 I got strike kits on my front and back doors also. I had a professional locksmith install mine. I live in Texas and It cost me about $175 to install a strike kit on my front door and $225 on the back door (the back door didn't have a deadbolt hole in it so i had to pay extra to have a hole cut in it and installed). Keep in mind that these locksmiths charged me $60 just for coming out there to install it. But it was worth it.
The way most residential home doors are made anyone that is powerful enough to lift a large sledgehammer can bust open your door. Owners of very expensive homes have designed there entrance doors with reinforced construction. The doors have Multiple steel pins going into the frame on all sides of the door. It would stop a small car if required. Company’s that sell expensive locks are selling a dream that most people believe
@@techtrektrick3509 At end of video, presenter mentioned he threw up a link to an Amazon product (looks like it's made in the US!). Lots of door jamb reinforcers, strike plates etc on Amazon; got mine there. I installed strike plate on my doors, and replaced the screws. Peace of mind.
the small about half inch screws are just shipping screws and most door makers attach much longer screws for installation in south Florida tap cons need to go into the jamb and hinge
Part of the problem with longer screws and stronger strike plates is that the poor design of the modern door and standard hardware puts the plate out over the end of the drywall, or maybe a half inch into the framing at most. The best replacement strike plates are probably the wider ones with 4 holes, which shifts the 2 inside screws another 1/2" or so into the framing.
Exactly Donna! This is all about buying time. A grown man will kick through any residential door eventually, its just a question of how many kicks....two or 10? These steps will buy us the small amount of precious time needed to arm ourselves. I installed 3.5" screws at all my doors many years ago, but i didn't know about these reinforcing plates. This is a great video! Stay safe!
I can think of one more improvement. The deadbolt passes through the striker into a space made in the wood frame behind it. Why not reinforce that space by installing a metal 'cup' or housing for the deadbolt to extend into instead of simply relying on the strength of the wood to withstand any blunt force attempt to break it.
One high-security product, Mul-t-Lock has a cup just as you describe. Even more, the deadbolt's bolt locks into that cup so they can't be separated when locked. www.acmelocksmith.com/blog/best-door-lock-brands/#multlock-locks
In a maximum security situation you want to have as much time as possible to ready your firearm to deal with a deadly intruder. These tips can be the difference between having the time to ready lethal force or not.
i put a medeco double cylinder deadbolt, a grade 1 clutching leverset with medeco cylinder, a dual lock door wrap on a wooden solid-core door and a shopmade 36" strike plate 1/8" thick with 3" drywall screws on a jewelry store. they had 3 foot crowbars.. they did some damage, they didn't get in !...
Shocked by the statistics I learned from your "more..." section! 56% of burglars use a door! 😮 Where can I subscribe? Thanks for getting to the point in a relatable way.
Excellent recommendations! I suggest that everyone looking at this video read "Burglars on are Job". As far as a know it's the only book written using interviews of professional burglars that have NEVER been caught.
Went a couple steps further than this. Behind the deadbolt striker plate I sunk a piece of 3/4 in pipe about a foot long into the wall. The bolt goes into it right at the steel door frame. Put 5 inch deck screws into every frame and hinge hole. Haven't had it tested yet and hope I never will.
Last year when I helped him renovate his COMMERCIAL property we encounter some impressive security because the place used to be a bank, they used long screws, long strikes, door wrap, hidden locks etc, even double walls. Although everything was bought down with a sledgehammer and power saw, it was extremely hard, and the whole street can hear us grinding through the night, and we had several police and neighbour visits because people were curious about the noise (NOT NOISE COMPLAINTS). So yeah good security does work and does its job.
@@BicycleFunk Maybe people are associating the situation I was describing with residential noise complaints, these are completely different. Other business owners who work late shifts were just curious about the sound, and we had like 8 people actually came and helped out, and police are on patrol and curious about the sound, not called. The point is about security, why is this comment turning into a witch hunt trial?
The half deadbolt is awesome! The sad thing is some people will install all of this great hardware on a crappy hollow core door. With all this great hardware you should at least have a solid door, or even a steel door.
Absolutely the best thing you can do if you own a home is to put a security screen door on. That way you have to pull that door out before you can get to the main door.
I love how people on the coments are saying to use structural screws and all that mess, trust me it doesn't matter how strong the screw is, the fact is that unless you have a metal door, frame and door jam, it all breaks fairly easy. The screw will stay intact but the door jam is what breaks away. It's only about 1/2 an inch thick where the doorknob plunger engages the striker plate. If someone wants to get in your house through the front door by kicking it in they will most likely succeed
I put the long screws into the door jamb. Also I had two large windows on either side of the front door on the porch. I installed .060 laminated glass over those windows. Then we adopted a 115 pound German Shepherd. Good to go.
@@LOUDsigh Pretty sure he means a regular door hinge. So, mount the hinges as if it were to carry the weight of the door (door swinging inward; hinge on the lock side). Adds 2 more points of attachment, so...? Would have to be careful over time because the slightest shift in the door plumb or true will misalign some tight tolerances. And, it will look weird/unattractive but would be okay I suppose for an out of the way door, or one lives in a bad neighborhood.
Do it with the strike and hings as well. Been doing this for very many years in many home. It's a lot harder to get past. Then change your locks with security key locks.
I had my front steel door with steel frame kicked in while on vacation. The deadbolt and latch held until the whole frame started to detach from the jamb and they got in. Must have kicked it like crazy many times. Crazy thing is my back door is way less secure
1:14 anyone could say the same thing about your trade... “ Locksmiths don’t actually care about your safety or security. They’re just trying to make a quick buck and get onto the next job” I don’t actually believe that but that’s basically what you just said about Builder’s -Not a builder or locksmith
Bradley Weiss No you’re imagining criminals are as smart as you are. Some criminals are dumb and incapable People without the forethought to get a job so that they can continue their addictions.
Buy a 1"wide steel stock at your hardware store . drill holes and mount over the casing where the deadbolt from the door goes into the frame. (under the door trim) That way when someone tries to kick the door, the steel keeps the rings from being broken out of the door casing. You can cut the width out of the trim with a dremel to make the trim flush on the door frame. I got a thicker version on my garage with lag bolts.
Great video with a lot of good points on how to stop someone from coming in through a door. But if they are that willing to pound on a door that hard, whats stopping them to come in through a window? Any tips for improving window and doorwall security?
I bought an electronic door bolt, it has two prongs that extend and retract into a strike and is operated by a GDO. When I moved to new home, it wasn't possible to fit the bolt normally as the doors and frame were modern uPVC/Metal. However, by drilling a couple of holes in the black plate, it was possible to fix the device underneath the thumb turn using the existing screw holes used to fix the handle cover on. Now the two prongs extend upwards to surround the thumbscrew and prevent the key mechanism from turning and acting like a locking-latch. What's more I can activate this from outside. Fortunately, when I turn the key to lock to the door and remove the key, the thumbscrew on the inside is left in a vertical orientation making all of this possible.
also make sure the hinges are inside the house not outside, if not a little spring punch will defeat the pins and the door would open by itself and you can have the strongest door and lock but if the window is easy to access, criminals would go for that since its easier
We had our door kicked in once, our on site security kept whoever it was from getting in (a 140 pound Rottweiler named Greta :) ). My dad fixed everything up and after he put the door back together he got a piece of stainless tubing and drilled the dead bolt hole out for it, it fit all the way thru the studs and the bolt went inside it. None was gonna kick that.
I've done this on a rental property. Standard screws are 6 gauge. I put 8 gauge and through the studs just like you explained. As an Aluminum joiner/ glazier and carpenter. I've seen some real dodgy things. In Australia some boulders still ask to fit hollow core door on front entry.( absolute joke).cheers from Australia.
Had to come to your channel even though I’m in New Hampshire and say thank you 60 years old I had no idea that that plunger I had no idea what its function was! Thank you I’m going to go readjust all my doors! GREAT VIDEO! YOU sir have a knack for video......... I learned more in that five minute video about door hardware and safety my guess is I’m gonna go through all my doors and my children’s doors in their homes thank you very much❤️🇺🇸 How about a sliding glass door can you install the deadbolt and the slider?
Don't forget a metal baseball bat and a hollow point rounds for a fire arm of your choice pete. Cities getting worse to live in. Mechetes with saw teeth scares most away.
As a builder/remodler, I always add tructural security to all of the exterior doors when installing them, and a 3 1/2 inch screw is always inserted at the least. Why? It's MY Property, Stoves/Appliances, Materials paint, Tools that are inside that house until it is sold. Heck, those doors are installed weeks before the house is even listed on the market. Why wouldn't I want to protect myself. I also point that out to the new buyers later on as a value added, bonus feature.
This is totally true, the apartment I live in was burgled a few years ago and the short screws that had been used weren't sufficient to hold the door. Since then, the screws were replaced with 3" ones and if another attempt is made, that won't be the cause of them getting in.
On the new house the doors will open outward, it's required to be gold fortified in hurricane country and also is much more resistant to being kicked in.
You'll be hurting for sure trying to kick that door in. Even with a cheap lock it will still be better than your normal door frames with expensive kits
One of the best protections against intrusion is the kick stand pole with the block at the bottom and a "u" at the top that slips under the doorknob. It reinforces the door to the point that it cannot be kicked in or ran into since the stop of the stand is automatically driven into the floor when the door is pushed forward. It uses the entire floor as leverage and it is practically 100% effective.
We recently wrote an article on door barricades. There are some really good products available and we like them too. www.acmelocksmith.com/blog/door-barricade-systems-how-to-better-secure-a-door-from-the-inside/
BTW, great video. I appreciate your pointing out less expensive options. For me, it makes me then want to consider the more expensive options, too. I'm going to check out your other videos.
I have been busting doors and windows for over 25 years. Thats right I am a professiinal firefighter. None of this stuff will slow down anyone who knows what they are doing for more than a second. Criminals are not complicated. Get a security system and have big dogs for when you are not home. If you are home have guns.
Thank you for your service! Agreed. If someone wants in at any cost, and they don't care about noise or drawing attention to themselves, they're getting in. If someone is looking for an easy opportunity, make yours the hardest home on the block.
True. But unless you're dealing with a professional criminal like you see in the movies, your average criminal is going to get discouraged and move on to an easier target. Also just standing there trying to kick in a door will get you noticed by neighbors, passerbys and the cops. What you really want to do id s slow them down.
@Jeff Holland @Jeff Holland This video wasnt about police or federal agents busting doors. This was not about a drug houses. It was for the normal law abiding person trying to protect their house. No sane person would put the protections on their house that would be needed to slow me down for more than a few seconds to get in. We don't use battering rams in the fire service. We use more intricate tools. Alot of them can be quiet. Probably alot of criminals use the same. We try to do the least amount of damage as possible. Get a trained dog and a security system if you want to protect from burglars/intruders.
I really feel sorry for you guys! Here in Israel all doors from all companies are made of steel with much more thickness than what you advertise as a "door wrap" and all doors have multi lock pins to the ground top back and front of the door! The frame is steel on concrete! (old doors are steel on wood) the only way to get in is from a window or to hack the look, and if you add a smart look as well as a camera it is virtually impossible to enter the house...
Thanks for a great video! I’m looking into what you recommended for our front and back doors. We do have security cameras but I want to prevent someone entering the house. No we have no more small children. HOWEVER, our front fiberglass door has a full length side window so long screws is a problem and our back metal door has interior glass for most of its height and width. My wife really wants to keep the window in the front AND the mostly glass door in the back. Could you please tell me how you would suggest securing the doors without replacing them? The dead bolts you showed, If we secure them from insideand cant open from outside upon our return to the home, how do we secure them going out and coming back in? I dont want but one dead bolt only for when we are inside. Thank You!
It may, depending on length. The longer screws are for the frame side. There are door edge reinforcers that use longer screws because you are further away from the lock. Check out our video on installing a door reinforcer kit. ua-cam.com/video/rPrWDsgGtg8/v-deo.html
People laughed when I put sum bars on windows. I rented to a lady with a baby. She liked the extra security very much. New Fan here💓🙏
However there's one fatal flaw if there is a house fire you're screwed if you need to exit through that window
@@iair-conditiontheoutsideai3076 no, that's not at all an issue. Many add hinges, and it can be opened in the event of emergency, from inside. I personally, prefer, to have bars. It makes home a LOT safer.
@@Songs-lr4wt definitely is an issue are you Superman and can bend the bars out of the way? Lol
@@iair-conditiontheoutsideai3076 haha man just google it and end the ignorance.
@@migiddymike1403 ?
Thank you for this information. I’m an elderly woman living alone who often wonders about my safety. Very helpful information.
You are so welcome!
2:27 something that should be mentioned though also is that most screws do not have good shear strength and can snap very easily. You should make sure to choose a very strong screw because it doesn't matter how far in it goes if the screw itself is weak.
doesnt matter the wood it is screwed into is weak anyway
@@SNORKYMEDIA I have bloody poplar mate!
@@SNORKYMEDIAthen you reinforce the wood with a steel frame...
I'm a professional door reinforcer and what he says about what fails first and second and third is correct. I do some even more extreme stuff for people who require it, but a lot of those things are not exactly aesthetically pleasing but very effective.
One thing I've done four people is the sleeve that goes over the door to keep it from spreading apart can be done with lag bolts instead of the little wood screws that come with it, that makes a very robust door. I take an angle grinder and cut off the excess bolts so they look a little better and don't end up sticking someone, I then put a dab of epoxy on the e and of the bolt and nut to keep the nuts from coming loose.
I have also made my own giant striker plate out of that angle steel with the holes in it that is used for attaching garage door tracks. It uses a bunch of long deck screws for the striker area and then threw the front part I put some long skinny lag bolts. The lag bolts have to be slightly angled so that they hit the 2x4 framing. That is a pretty involved process because you have to hollow out the back of the door casing so you can cover up the metal and the lag bolts, plus mortis about a 2ft area on the door frame so the door doesn't hit the metal. This works really well on things like detached garages that are in a not-so-great neighborhood. Those two modifications will make a door extremely hard to kick in. One of them I did for someone ended up having a SWAT team battering ram used on it and it did not give way they did pretty much destroy the door though. SWAT got in but they got through a different door than the back door that I did the reinforcements on. You could tell by the condition of the door of that they really beat the hell out of it too. I did this to a detached garage for some lady in not completely gentrified area because they kept breaking in and stealing her son's bikes and stuff. It's been a year and nobody's breaking in now.
Excellent information. Thank you!
I will pay you to come and do my backdoor seriously love the video and my proposition stands
@@dahilabayon4091 if you are near Columbus Ohio I would do it.
Thanks, very helpful. I never considered why my super-heavy door has some of those features; now I know. An elderly woman owned this condo previously and I guess she took security very seriously, thankfully.
I lived in an apartment and replaced the deadbolt with my own (it was an ASSA, highly pick resistant). Well, I still got burglarized. They kicked in the door at the deadbolt, turns out the door was just styrofoam sandwiched between 2 thin pieces of sheet metal. The kick caused the deadbolt to bend out the metal sheet, push it out of battery and the door just opened right up. The expensive deadbolt was bent up and ruined. Moral of the story: a pick-proof lock is no good if they can just huff and puff and blow the door down.
it's not about fortifying the deadbolt. it's about fortifying the DOORJAMB.
First rule of lockpicking! Check if there is an easier way to get in!
Standard doors in apartment buildings are the cheapest. So kicking doors is not a hollywood myth.
I've just changed my front door. As the old one was very heavy I dismantled it for disposal. The bottom wooden panel was held in by decorative trim nailed in with 25mm nails. A stout kick could have got in....
@UA-cam DeletesMyComments in addition to that, she could buy some size 12 work boots and put them outside her door. it will look like a male lives there.
@@mickleblade I have a back door with a wooden lower panel just like that. I removed the trim and fitted a sheet of 1mm thick steel the same size as the panel, nailed into the frame right around the outside, then covered the sheet with cladding (inside the house). Anyone kicking that panel would get a shock, along with a broken bone or two.
As a builder I do care about a secure door always put 3" screws through the hinges and the strike plate
Well done. 🙂
My only complaint is that a key lock is honestly easier to pick than kicking the jam in anyway
I wish mine did! You are a rare gem!
@@rustedoutwrench I only half agree.
Yes, US locks can be picked pretty easily, especially if the home owner goes with a schlage or a kwikset.
But almost all burglaries start with a window smash or a kicked in door. Because of how rarely people actually secure them from physical attacks.
If somebody starts out with a mule kick, theyre not liable to switch to a lock picking method, unless that home is guaranteed to have no people inside, and neighbors are not within earshot.
Make sure you use structural screws not regular wood screws because they don't have sheer strength. A regular wood screw if kicked hard enough the head would just snap off.
Time for another video demonstrating the effectiveness of each screw. Lets break some stuff!
thank you for the tip, can you please educate us on the difference? I honestly don't know how to tell
@@ErrantChordier He meant "shear" strength - which is resistance to being broken by a force from the side. The structural screws are stronger in this regard.
@@johnk9895 yes, I saw the typo (sheer = pure, shear = from a right angle). I meant how to tell the difference between wood screws and structural screws
@@ErrantChordier Here are the ones I use - from Home Depot. They don't specify the strength, but since they identify them for this specific use, I assume they are up to the job.
Fringe Screw #10 x 4 in. Satin Nickel Phillips Flat-Head Long Hinge Screw with Oversize Threads to Secure Entry Doors (18-Pack)
I watched this and spent last weekend working on all my doors and windows.I got precious cargo to protect!!! Thanks for the tips.
Glad it helped!
I have 2 deadbolts,chain lock,chain lock with key,an 2 books on front door!Plus wedge wood 2x4 against door at all times!!My family had done this since I was a kid now I do it in my own home!!Everyone says it's way to much but it helps me feel little safer!!
A friend of mine is a firefighter. He says he can kick in most doors when they need to get access to a house fire. The lock strength isn’t a factor, the framing around the door is.
Yep. That's why the 3" screws are so important. To tag into the 2x4's behind the trim. But this still wont' make it impenetrable, just strengthens it from the default quite a bit.
Exactly. Install 2x6 studs back to back instead of one 2x4.
I bought my house from a swat captain. He had the back door fortified but not the front door. He only had a deadbolt on the front door. I added a slider lock that prevents the door from opening more than 1" when used. Of course we also have two Dobermans who sleep at the bottom of the staircase and have full run of the house. Out front I added motion sensor lights; and in the backyard I added red spot lights to allow my Dobermans to see clearly in the dark. Yours great suggestions. Thanks.
A local news story generated plenty of paranoia from a recent rash of B&Es. Since then I installed a double keyed deadbolt, the brass plate covers, and fastened an 8th inch thick steel strip on the inside of the door frame. Total cost $75 bucks.
Nice.
This guy does a fantastic job at covering what is needed and not wasting time doing it. Thank you
My second home was broken into by kicking in the side kitchen door. Took maybe 8-10 kicks, by the number of foot prints we saw on the door. After that incident, I reinforced all of my doors' jambs (amazon is a good source for materials, or local hardware store) with metal plates, installed the plate referenced in this video that is placed over the door knob, replaced the short screws (yep, they were in there) with the longer screws, and had security storm doors installed on a couple of the doors. I did everything myself (easy to do, plenty of youtube vids out there on installing) except for the storm door installation. Before the incident, I never thought that this would've happened to me.
Thank you for sharing that!
I bet hulk Hogan could kick the bloody thing in mate!
We all think stuff will never happen to us. It's how we get through life without being frozen in fear. However, an ounce of prevention...
I have a German shepherd and a 357. Also sensors on my driveway that chimes in my house when someone or something goes by them. No problems.
When we build our houses we always beef up exterior doors and put 3" screws in the hinges and strike plates.
Good video. My laundry room door to garage only had a locking knob like for a bathroom . I added a dead bolt, and a door wrap for knob and dead bolt . The strike is long enough for dead bolt and knob and I screwed in nine # 9 3" deck screws into stud . I also added two 3" deck screws into each half of each hinge ( 2 into door and 2 into studs) .
Thanks for the tips. I've made a few minor upgrades:
1. Longer screws
2. Longer strike plate
3. Added a Phalanx CIWS with six barrel gatling gun firing 20 mm depleted uranium rounds
🤣
I think we can buy #3, which would really make the room man, on Iranian Amazon now...
@@pth465 You're right...it would really tie the room together.
Some points I would like to add if you don't mind. 1. The screw should be star or torx so it doesn't strip out when inserting it. 2. It should have the cut out thingie near the tip of the screw. That makes it so the screw can go in the 2x4 and whatever else without splitting and/or cracking the wood. 3. if its an exterior door e.g. front or back, then the screw should be ceramic coated or stainless steel. 4. A structural screw is always preferable when going into structure. However, most structural screws don't have a flat head so it wont sit flush with the strike plate. That means you'll probably have to use a framing screw. Something like the Simpson SDWS Framing Screws or GRK R4 framing screw. Either one of those would work well as long as you get the appropriate length. 5. The screw should have twists up at the top. About 1/4" or 1/8" from the head of the screw on the shaft of the screw. That keeps the screw from backing out. The aforementioned Simpson SDWS and GRK R4 both have that.
Awesome information! Thank you!
IMO the best advice is to always use pilot holes, almost guaranteed to not split the wood. Those self drilling screws are a gimmick for cheap softwood, they still split the wood.
@@olivertaylor4779I agree! Pilot holes are the only way to go!
@kalijasin
Thank you so much for your details on the right type of threaded nail (afraid youtube will delete it if I call it a thing that rhymes w blue!) to put into a door frame to make the strike plate, etc. more secure.
I've learned more from this man then from my 'mentors' in my apprenticeship.
Thanks! Come to Arizona. We're always looking for new talent.👍🏻
I cut out parts of the frame from a foot past where the locks were located and fitted oak and teak inserts.
These were glued and well screwed in using plenty of 6" long screws.
The door itself had a half inch thick sheet of exterior grade plywood glued and through bolted onto its interior using steel coachbolts and wide washers.
The frame where the hinges mounted was replaced in exactly the same was as described above for the lock locations and thick steel hinges were fitted using deep screws. Hinge bolts were also fitted.
From the outside, the door revealed nothing about it's hardened state and after I had moved my old neighbour told me that the Police had raided the house looking for the new tenant and that it had taken over 15 minutes of multiple Officers repeatedly kicking the door.
He told me that it was the lock itself (a Chubb) that had broken internally and that the door and frame were undamaged, I was especially pleased to hear this!
One's front door is the first line of defence and should be treated accordingly!
They can be very highly reinforced without too much outlay and the peace of mind alone is worthwhile!
Whilst one doesn't have to go to the lengths that I did, virtually anything will be an improvement over standard doors and frames.
Thanks this is what I have been talking about with my family, thanks for the suggestions.
Thank you for keeping the videos short, sweet , and to the point.
Almost 10 minutes is not short and to the point. But yes, good info discussed.
🤣😂✌️
What's the point when your windows are made of glass?
Or if you have a sliding glass door.
Glass makes noise when broken. It can also hurt the perp. Leaving your DNA in drops of blood is not a good idea. Merely forcing a door in is often the better choice.
@@hugolafhugolaf Breaking down a door also makes a tremendous amount of noise! DNA in the blood? Are you kidding me? I don't think the Police where I live would even respond to a home burglary let alone send some crime team out to take blood samples for DNA tests. You been watching too many crime TV shows!
LWRC I have one and I agree. 😉
@ A Chihuahua sounds like a Chihuahua, that's not going to deter anyone. Everyone knows they'll run away at any real threat, and if they don't, they are easy to punt.
Or a fully automatic military style rifle.
I've always upgrade the screws when installing doors. The host suggested using 3-4" screws. Great. What he didn't mention is overtightning them. Easy does it. Finish with a screw driver.
Great feedback. Thank you.
I also have ran into this problem and realized this was an important tip left out!! BUT, I think most handyman types would already be aware of this :/ ... general youtubers, maybe not so much.
Adding long screws to the door hardware is a brilliant "Why didn't I think of that" idea! Thank you very much!
My door swings out so I feel fairly secure on that point ... however I have decorative glass in the middle and heavy clear 3M film on the inside so that it may shatter but not explode like normal glass ... I will beef up my bedroom door and bathroom door with some other hardware ... great tips !!
Door swings out means if something falls infront of the door you can't get out.
If your door swings out aren’t your hinges on the outside? If so pretty easy to remove hinge pins
Awesome information, thank you for sharing. Growing up in the 60s my father was big on being safe to protect us so we had a solid wood across our front door .
I think hinge bolts should have been mentioned, they are cheap, diy friendly and secure a part of the door people ignore.
We have had a steel entry door for decades. When I put the new door lock and deadbolt on I used three inch screws after I removed the interior wall and put additional studs on all three sides of the door. So now the framing around the steel door is over Five inches.
Installing a commerial door would be a great security upgrade. Commercila doors open outward instead of inward like residential doors and are almost impossible to kick in. And prying it outward is also much more difficult.
I’ve never seen a couple of the products you had in this video. I particularly liked the half deadbolt and the little accessory that would keep the deadbolt thumb latch from turning.Nice video…thanks for posting.
All door frames should be metal casing
Whats the point of that when your wall is made of foam, chicken-wire and stucco?
@@mcamodell gives me time to get my weapon
@@mcamodell yeah if you live in Florida
@@mcamodell So somebody is going through a wall? Sure, seems legit. You do a lot of PCP?
@@dystopiaisutopia first of all you clearly have no idea the pathetic materials that walls are made of these days or you wouldn't say that. Also there was a national news story about that exact thing when the housing boom was going on and they showed a 200 lb construction worker with work boots on go through the wall in less than 2 minutes. So you can take your snark and shove it where the sun don't shine
I have a double door at the front of my home. There is no 2x4 to drill extra long screws into on the striker plate. For additional security I had a contractor install what is called, storm doors in front of my entrance doors. Metal frame and tempered glass that you can remove and put in screens. But I never do that, these storm doors you can lock. That lock is in the handle of the door. Like my entry doors these are also double doors. So in the middle where the door closes it is just a slide bolt on the top and bottom on the inside of the doors that forms the anchor point. It does add to the security but there are still so many weak points that I worry about. My front entry doors look like a dark wood stain pattern, they are composite material. Really nice and classy effect, I replaced the original doors that were cheap metal clad, that would be easy to kick in. I haven't done it so far with these doors but in the past I would put double deadbolt locks on the doors. Where you needed a key to get in and a key to get out. So if someone entered the structure through a window, they couldn't walk out your front door carrying your TV so easily. I have done that with my garage door that leads into the house. There is a deadbolt on the garage side and a separate deadbolt on the house side. So you need keys to get in and keys to get out. I also secure the hinge pins on the door on the inside.
All my doors and windows are reinforced with 12 ga , 308, 556, 45 ACP and 9mm of lead.
@@bradleyweiss1089 are you always home just waiting and fondling your collection?
mozismobile Usually I’m retired. Or my wife. Or my son. I worked 2nd most of my life. So I’m up late.
Any more info necessary?
mozismobile And we don’t handle em like we’re from St Louie.
@@bradleyweiss1089 Be glad you have such freedom. Guns aren't really allowed here, it's very time consuming and expensive jumping through hoops to get licensing. And then you CANNOT use them for defense or you will find yourself in prison. The government has now recently put through legislation to confiscate firearms. They just outlawed over 1500 firearms that you must hand in within 2 years. These are not military arms but common firearms for sport shooting and hunting. Handguns have essentially been banned in many large cities and the restrictions tied to them are too numerous to list. This is gun ownership in Canada. So stiffening up your home security is a big thing here.
Great video. No scare tactics. All info. I appreciate the info and wish the links were to your store, not Amazon.
Thank you. I appreciate that. But as a small-business I just don't have the staff or finances to build a complete e-commerce site for all the things we talk about. I really do appreciate you looking out for small businesses 👍🏻.
Great tips! I tell people this all the time and try to get them to secure their doors. Most don't listen, but some do, and that's what matters.
We are buying a new house in a month and this info is fantastic! Thank you so much.
We all feel so secure with our doors locked until we see this video! You did a great job of showing us how unprepared we are. The only thing I have going for me is my Pitt who lies at the front door waiting on me to come home…
Pity the fool that meets your Pitbull !
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video and try to educate us on safety & security. I have just subscribed. You have great tips for people like my husband and I that are seniors and aren't tech savvy.
Another tip if the last item featured is not used:
Put 3.5 inch screws into the door jamb every 6 inches for a couple of feet above and below the locks to strengthen the door jamb & make it more secure / split resistant. Drill pilot holes to prevent splitting.
Install 2x4 door barricade brackets to prevent kicking in the door while you are inside the home - even in apartments. The brackets are less than $30 and available on Amazon
www.amazon.com/Barricade-Brackets-Security-Apartment-Reinforcement/dp/B08R7Y3BJF/ref=mp_s_a_1_23_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=2x4+door+brace&qid=1613258847&sr=8-23-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFBMTU0U0hCRTREUVcmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwNzA5NzIxRlpXWkRLREZMVlMxJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAzNDM4OTIxN05HOFBDOE9UVDRYJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
This is great information. I always replace the screws with 3 1/2 inch for that added protection. It’s quick n fast. The other products I will definitely look into and possibly use for some more added protection. Thank you
Thank you for the comment.
I have strike kits on both of my doors and feel much more secure in my home. Those long screws really make a difference. 👍👍👍
may i ask where did you buy them? and how much did you end up spending roughly?
@@techtrektrick3509 I bought new doors to replace my front and back door and the security door kits were sold at the same store. I believe I paid around $50-60. You can also buy them from Home Depot or Lowe's and you can also get the 3.5inch screws there as well. Even if you don't get the kit, changing out ALL of your screws to 3.5inch screws make them at least 20x more secure because the are secured all the way into the studs which hold the door.
@@techtrektrick3509 I got strike kits on my front and back doors also. I had a professional locksmith install mine. I live in Texas and It cost me about $175 to install a strike kit on my front door and $225 on the back door (the back door didn't have a deadbolt hole in it so i had to pay extra to have a hole cut in it and installed).
Keep in mind that these locksmiths charged me $60 just for coming out there to install it. But it was worth it.
The way most residential home doors are made anyone that is powerful enough to lift a large sledgehammer can bust open your door.
Owners of very expensive homes have designed there entrance doors with reinforced construction. The doors have Multiple steel pins going into the frame on all sides of the door. It would stop a small car if required.
Company’s that sell expensive locks are selling a dream that most people believe
@@techtrektrick3509 At end of video, presenter mentioned he threw up a link to an Amazon product (looks like it's made in the US!). Lots of door jamb reinforcers, strike plates etc on Amazon; got mine there. I installed strike plate on my doors, and replaced the screws. Peace of mind.
the small about half inch screws are just shipping screws and most door makers attach much longer screws for installation in south Florida tap cons need to go into the jamb and hinge
Part of the problem with longer screws and stronger strike plates is that the poor design of the modern door and standard hardware puts the plate out over the end of the drywall, or maybe a half inch into the framing at most. The best replacement strike plates are probably the wider ones with 4 holes, which shifts the 2 inside screws another 1/2" or so into the framing.
The strike has a strike side security plate that is larger, thicker and is secured with #8 3” screw.
Cause we need time to get the shotgun.
Donna E Turner Yes,great if we’re home but if not, these suggestions in this video help. 😀
Or in the case of a drug dealer, they need time to get a few extra toilet flushes in!!!
my pitbull gives me time to get the 12 gauge.
Exactly Donna! This is all about buying time. A grown man will kick through any residential door eventually, its just a question of how many kicks....two or 10? These steps will buy us the small amount of precious time needed to arm ourselves. I installed 3.5" screws at all my doors many years ago, but i didn't know about these reinforcing plates. This is a great video! Stay safe!
Ikr, I wouldnt give anyone much time to work at busting a door down because then youll have to repair it.
I can think of one more improvement. The deadbolt passes through the striker into a space made in the wood frame behind it. Why not reinforce that space by installing a metal 'cup' or housing for the deadbolt to extend into instead of simply relying on the strength of the wood to withstand any blunt force attempt to break it.
One high-security product, Mul-t-Lock has a cup just as you describe. Even more, the deadbolt's bolt locks into that cup so they can't be separated when locked. www.acmelocksmith.com/blog/best-door-lock-brands/#multlock-locks
In a maximum security situation you want to have as much time as possible to ready your firearm to deal with a deadly intruder. These tips can be the difference between having the time to ready lethal force or not.
i put a medeco double cylinder deadbolt, a grade 1 clutching leverset with medeco cylinder, a dual lock door wrap on a wooden solid-core door and a shopmade 36" strike plate 1/8" thick with 3" drywall screws on a jewelry store. they had 3 foot crowbars.. they did some damage, they didn't get in !...
Awesome!
Need wall security too. So many contractor built homes have walls that i can kick a hole in easily.
I prefer 60kpsi concrete with steel reinforcement.
Stop kicking holes in walls.
50mm chromoly steel armor would help too, unless the intruder has big enough artillery.
I love 60kpsi concrete with steel reinforcement. Sprinkle it on my yogurt and cereal.
60 kpsi concrete with 3/8" rebar - that'll stop the kicking thought immediately.
Shocked by the statistics I learned from your "more..." section! 56% of burglars use a door! 😮 Where can I subscribe? Thanks for getting to the point in a relatable way.
Welcome aboard!
Excellent recommendations! I suggest that everyone looking at this video read "Burglars on are Job". As far as a know it's the only book written using interviews of professional burglars that have NEVER been caught.
@tomjones2348
Thanks. I will!
Went a couple steps further than this. Behind the deadbolt striker plate I sunk a piece of 3/4 in pipe about a foot long into the wall. The bolt goes into it right at the steel door frame. Put 5 inch deck screws into every frame and hinge hole. Haven't had it tested yet and hope I never will.
Last year when I helped him renovate his COMMERCIAL property we encounter some impressive security because the place used to be a bank, they used long screws, long strikes, door wrap, hidden locks etc, even double walls. Although everything was bought down with a sledgehammer and power saw, it was extremely hard, and the whole street can hear us grinding through the night, and we had several police and neighbour visits because people were curious about the noise (NOT NOISE COMPLAINTS). So yeah good security does work and does its job.
Then why do you grind at night? To disturb neighbours and get police? It's obviously more quiet during night so the sound stands out
@@lazry3208 It was in a COMMERCIAL area, Loud work was purposely done at night, so we don't disturb people working and shopping during the day.
@@Tokoroa3420 well obviously you were incorrect with the neighbor and police visits.
@@BicycleFunk Maybe people are associating the situation I was describing with residential noise complaints, these are completely different. Other business owners who work late shifts were just curious about the sound, and we had like 8 people actually came and helped out, and police are on patrol and curious about the sound, not called. The point is about security, why is this comment turning into a witch hunt trial?
The half deadbolt is awesome! The sad thing is some people will install all of this great hardware on a crappy hollow core door. With all this great hardware you should at least have a solid door, or even a steel door.
Yep. Great advice. 👍
Absolutely the best thing you can do if you own a home is to put a security screen door on. That way you have to pull that door out before you can get to the main door.
Those are easy to get thru with a crowbar
@@beerman9807 haha.. well... not easy and makes alot of noise and at least slows them down big time.. just my thoughts
I love how people on the coments are saying to use structural screws and all that mess, trust me it doesn't matter how strong the screw is, the fact is that unless you have a metal door, frame and door jam, it all breaks fairly easy. The screw will stay intact but the door jam is what breaks away. It's only about 1/2 an inch thick where the doorknob plunger engages the striker plate. If someone wants to get in your house through the front door by kicking it in they will most likely succeed
The point of the long screws is to tag into the 2X4's underneath, for the reason you mention. Thanks for watching!
i have walls and dogs. have never been robbed, everyone around my house has at one point or other.
dogs are the best security systems.
I put the long screws into the door jamb. Also I had two large windows on either side of the front door on the porch. I installed .060 laminated glass over those windows. Then we adopted a 115 pound German Shepherd. Good to go.
Now you just need a g u n
This is a FANTASTIC video; tons of great info! Thank you for taking the time to make it!
You can also install a pair of passageway hinges(
A what? Just googled passageway henge &nuffn came up
@@LOUDsigh Pretty sure he means a regular door hinge. So, mount the hinges as if it were to carry the weight of the door (door swinging inward; hinge on the lock side). Adds 2 more points of attachment, so...? Would have to be careful over time because the slightest shift in the door plumb or true will misalign some tight tolerances. And, it will look weird/unattractive but would be okay I suppose for an out of the way door, or one lives in a bad neighborhood.
Awesome info! I need to do this for my mother's house.
Do it with the strike and hings as well. Been doing this for very many years in many home. It's a lot harder to get past. Then change your locks with security key locks.
Absolutely to the point And well articulated. A really good video.
A Glock 30SF .45ACP is my Deadbolt of choice. Great Video!
Thanks for watching 🙂
Funny how warnings like this just continue to come through my feed. Thank you though. It’s always wise to be one step ahead. Keep talking❤️
You're so welcome!
I always pay attention to warnings. Because what usually happens if I don’t… what was warned happens.
This goes beyond just a sales video. This is community service at its best.
That’s the screws I put on my doors as soon as I moved into my new home!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Great video. I work at ace hardware on higley and brown and when I can't make a key we send our customers to you!
Thank you sooo much. I've had people come in at night when I am sleeping, so this will help.
I had my front steel door with steel frame kicked in while on vacation. The deadbolt and latch held until the whole frame started to detach from the jamb and they got in. Must have kicked it like crazy many times. Crazy thing is my back door is way less secure
Wow. 😯
1:14 anyone could say the same thing about your trade...
“
Locksmiths don’t actually care about your safety or security. They’re just trying to make a quick buck and get onto the next job”
I don’t actually believe that but that’s basically what you just said about Builder’s
-Not a builder or locksmith
I'll be more careful how I phrase things going forward. Thanks for watching. ✌
Locks are for the law abiding.
Bradley Weiss No you’re imagining criminals are as smart as you are. Some criminals are dumb and incapable People without the forethought to get a job so that they can continue their addictions.
ACME Locksmith ✌️subbed tkx for the reply.
Buy a 1"wide steel stock at your hardware store . drill holes and mount over the casing where the deadbolt from the door goes into the frame. (under the door trim) That way when someone tries to kick the door, the steel keeps the rings from being broken out of the door casing. You can cut the width out of the trim with a dremel to make the trim flush on the door frame. I got a thicker version on my garage with lag bolts.
Can you share a picture or something? I'm having trouble picturing what you're describing.
Great video with a lot of good points on how to stop someone from coming in through a door. But if they are that willing to pound on a door that hard, whats stopping them to come in through a window? Any tips for improving window and doorwall security?
It's a great question. I'm glad you asked. We are finalizing an article on that right now and that will make it's way to a video. Stay tuned.
Here is our article on securing windows.
www.acmelocksmith.com/blog/how-to-secure-home-windows/
I bought an electronic door bolt, it has two prongs that extend and retract into a strike and is operated by a GDO. When I moved to new home, it wasn't possible to fit the bolt normally as the doors and frame were modern uPVC/Metal. However, by drilling a couple of holes in the black plate, it was possible to fix the device underneath the thumb turn using the existing screw holes used to fix the handle cover on. Now the two prongs extend upwards to surround the thumbscrew and prevent the key mechanism from turning and acting like a locking-latch. What's more I can activate this from outside. Fortunately, when I turn the key to lock to the door and remove the key, the thumbscrew on the inside is left in a vertical orientation making all of this possible.
Always thought this kind of stuff was so interesting. Great video.
also make sure the hinges are inside the house not outside, if not a little spring punch will defeat the pins and the door would open by itself and you can have the strongest door and lock but if the window is easy to access, criminals would go for that since its easier
We had our door kicked in once, our on site security kept whoever it was from getting in (a 140 pound Rottweiler named Greta :) ). My dad fixed everything up and after he put the door back together he got a piece of stainless tubing and drilled the dead bolt hole out for it, it fit all the way thru the studs and the bolt went inside it. None was gonna kick that.
I've done this on a rental property. Standard screws are 6 gauge. I put 8 gauge and through the studs just like you explained. As an Aluminum joiner/ glazier and carpenter. I've seen some real dodgy things. In Australia some boulders still ask to fit hollow core door on front entry.( absolute joke).cheers from Australia.
Thank you for the comments, and thank you for watching 🙂
Had to come to your channel even though I’m in New Hampshire and say thank you 60 years old I had no idea that that plunger I had no idea what its function was! Thank you I’m going to go readjust all my doors!
GREAT VIDEO! YOU sir have a knack for video......... I learned more in that five minute video about door hardware and safety my guess is I’m gonna go through all my doors and my children’s doors in their homes thank you very much❤️🇺🇸
How about a sliding glass door can you install the deadbolt and the slider?
I'm glad you found it useful. 🙂
Don't forget a metal baseball bat and a hollow point rounds for a fire arm of your choice pete. Cities getting worse to live in. Mechetes with saw teeth scares most away.
This guy did a great job explaining some of the principles of improving door security.
Thank you!
@@LocksmithRecommended Ty. I have taken your excellent recommendations to heart.
Really excellent video, thank you! I will be using these techniques to secure my home!
Glad it was helpful!
As a builder/remodler, I always add tructural security to all of the exterior doors when installing them, and a 3 1/2 inch screw is always inserted at the least. Why? It's MY Property, Stoves/Appliances, Materials paint, Tools that are inside that house until it is sold. Heck, those doors are installed weeks before the house is even listed on the market. Why wouldn't I want to protect myself.
I also point that out to the new buyers later on as a value added, bonus feature.
That's awesome! Thanks for watching.
Is Wile E. Coyote one of your customers?
Their best customer
This is totally true, the apartment I live in was burgled a few years ago and the short screws that had been used weren't sufficient to hold the door. Since then, the screws were replaced with 3" ones and if another attempt is made, that won't be the cause of them getting in.
Thank you so very much for your planning, energy, and time you have put into this; invaluable information, professionally delivered; bless you.
On the new house the doors will open outward, it's required to be gold fortified in hurricane country and also is much more resistant to being kicked in.
My door and frame are steel. The wall solid cement. Good video though.
You'll be hurting for sure trying to kick that door in. Even with a cheap lock it will still be better than your normal door frames with expensive kits
One of the best protections against intrusion is the kick stand pole with the block at the bottom and a "u" at the top that slips under the doorknob. It reinforces the door to the point that it cannot be kicked in or ran into since the stop of the stand is automatically driven into the floor when the door is pushed forward. It uses the entire floor as leverage and it is practically 100% effective.
We recently wrote an article on door barricades. There are some really good products available and we like them too. www.acmelocksmith.com/blog/door-barricade-systems-how-to-better-secure-a-door-from-the-inside/
The best security, is first, an alarm system or a great dog, second is a 12 gauge shotgun with OO buck. Do I say more?
Add a driveway monitor or alert system. Gives you the time needed to check your cameras or grab a gun before they reach your door.
Great presentation, I have already installed some of your suggestions, but will sow add some of yours. Thanks!
Hello;
Thank you for all you do.
*IF* you liked the video "LIKE" the video.
I appreciated this, very good.
Have a GREAT day, Neighbor!
BTW, great video. I appreciate your pointing out less expensive options. For me, it makes me then want to consider the more expensive options, too. I'm going to check out your other videos.
Thank you. Here's a video of us installing the door reinforcement kit. ua-cam.com/video/rPrWDsgGtg8/v-deo.html
I have been busting doors and windows for over 25 years. Thats right I am a professiinal firefighter. None of this stuff will slow down anyone who knows what they are doing for more than a second. Criminals are not complicated. Get a security system and have big dogs for when you are not home. If you are home have guns.
Thank you for your service! Agreed. If someone wants in at any cost, and they don't care about noise or drawing attention to themselves, they're getting in. If someone is looking for an easy opportunity, make yours the hardest home on the block.
@@LocksmithRecommended Come on in(burglars), you will NOT be leaving-ALIVE(except for Bilbao Baggins-he can live).
True. But unless you're dealing with a professional criminal like you see in the movies, your average criminal is going to get discouraged and move on to an easier target. Also just standing there trying to kick in a door will get you noticed by neighbors, passerbys and the cops. What you really want to do id s slow them down.
@Jeff Holland @Jeff Holland This video wasnt about police or federal agents busting doors. This was not about a drug houses. It was for the normal law abiding person trying to protect their house. No sane person would put the protections on their house that would be needed to slow me down for more than a few seconds to get in. We don't use battering rams in the fire service. We use more intricate tools. Alot of them can be quiet. Probably alot of criminals use the same. We try to do the least amount of damage as possible. Get a trained dog and a security system if you want to protect from burglars/intruders.
Did that years ago screwed into door frame much stronger need to add wrap
I really feel sorry for you guys! Here in Israel all doors from all companies are made of steel with much more thickness than what you advertise as a "door wrap" and all doors have multi lock pins to the ground top back and front of the door! The frame is steel on concrete! (old doors are steel on wood) the only way to get in is from a window or to hack the look, and if you add a smart look as well as a camera it is virtually impossible to enter the house...
@@flennboyd6413 I am sorry to hear that, but I will still by USA stuff over Chinese stuff any day!:)
Definitely gonna reinforce my doors with them 3 1/2 screw I checked and I have then tiny ones ugh ugh that wont work for me
Thank you!
I feel mentally safe aIready, of learning of these products and problems I was unaware of!!!👍🙏😷
Thanks for a great video! I’m looking into what you recommended for our front and back doors. We do have security cameras but I want to prevent someone entering the house. No we have no more small children. HOWEVER, our front fiberglass door has a full length side window so long screws is a problem and our back metal door has interior glass for most of its height and width. My wife really wants to keep the window in the front AND the mostly glass door in the back. Could you please tell me how you would suggest securing the doors without replacing them?
The dead bolts you showed, If we secure them from insideand cant open from outside upon our return to the home, how do we secure them going out and coming back in? I dont want but one dead bolt only for when we are inside. Thank You!
Would longer screws on the doorknob side imped it's function like trouble turning it?
It may, depending on length. The longer screws are for the frame side. There are door edge reinforcers that use longer screws because you are further away from the lock. Check out our video on installing a door reinforcer kit. ua-cam.com/video/rPrWDsgGtg8/v-deo.html
@@LocksmithRecommended thanks for the quick reply 😀
Ha, JUST did pretty much ALL the above to my 3 doors. A LOT of peace of mind..
Well done. Thanks for watching!